The Chef JKP Podcast
The Chef JKP Podcast
Season 5 - Episode 3 - Peggy Li - SPS Affinity and Beyond!
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In this episode of the ChefJKP Podcast, Peggy reflects on the importance of food education and how it is lacking in today's society.
She mentions that most children these days only see food in packages in the fridge and don't have the opportunity to learn about the origins and quality of the ingredients.
Listen in as Peggy provides a glimpse into her childhood memories of Hong Kong street food, the vibrant and bustling atmosphere of Temple Street, the raw and authentic wet market experience, and the importance of food education.
ChefJKP and Peggy discuss:
• Importance of Food Education
• Peggy's Transition to Hospitality
• Winning a Bid for Lord's Cricket Ground Catering
• Opening a Pub for Guy Ritchie and Madonna
• Moving to Michelin Starred Operations
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The butcher man will have a fag in his mouth, and then like, you know, shirtless, just apron, and then the apron absolutely filthy, and then, you know, have the cleaver's like,
"Which part do you want, babe?" And then slap it down. You're bringing either the Chinese, the Indian or the Jews. Okay. So that was the decision they made.
But surely they must have also just looked at your your experience in CV and gone past the nationality, surely? No, they haven't. They haven't. if I don't cheer myself up I would have either turned into alcohol or something else Welcome back to the chef at JKP podcast and on the show today We have the one and only Peggy Lee who is the managing partner of SPS affinity Peggy.
Welcome to the show Thank you for having me So before we get on to all the managerial things things, first things first. First or favorite ever,
childhood food memory. Oh, it's hard. It's very hard. I said Chinese because we eat everything other than tables, chairs, cars and aeroplane.
It has to be fried rice, you know, it's such a classic that, you know, when you have nothing to eat at home, you see rice. rice. Yes, here you go. Fried rice. And fried rice can be done in so many different version.
Obviously, we don't go into the Uncle Roger version with Jamie and all sorts. - We don't wanna talk about Uncle Roger here. (laughing) - He's a legend. Legend. - Okay,
so then obviously growing up, what were sort of the types of food that you were introduced to as a child? I think it needs to give you a little bit of a,
where my family background comes from. I think that would be the easiest thing for you to understand how much of a whirlwind there is. So it all started from my parents,
obviously. My mom is the second batch of a Hong Kong female police in Hong Kong. So Hong Kong only started a female police in the seventh.
'70s. And they only started to recruit them sort of around like early, mid, '70s. So she's the second batch of cadets. - Wow.
- And it's very odd in that extent. You know, a lot of people in those days, you can call it Hong Kong is one of those places where police kind of like a license thug in that area.
so therefore and also the police station that she first stationed at so that police station is called Yeomate and reason why that place is so famous is the famous temple street of Hong Kong is actually within that circumference so you can imagine all the hustle the bustle from the street food to the markets and everything else.
else and and that's just like you know you literally walk around the street and you won't go hungry this is like you can pick up like you know a skewer of fish balls here a bowl of noodle there a congee here and and whatever else wow so that's pretty much one of those where childhood memories has been everything on the street is like if mom don't want to cook which she actually doesn't doesn't really have that much
time to cook This is where you know, she's just give you like 10 or 20 bucks And you just like run around the street and get your dinner done. That's pretty much it. Yeah, so so that must have been quite Incredible sort of seeing so many things as a kid bustle Obviously your mom being in in what she did that the street food it's it's quite phenomenal - It is,
but also in the extent is obviously, you know, when people look at travel program, wet market, you know, the ones that we see nowadays is already, I would say the more clinically dumbed down version.
- Okay, so let's talk about the raw version. Explain to me if I was to see back then the raw version, what sort of things would I be privy to? - So basically, okay,
you have to butcher. - So the butcher would be, have like, you know, half a slap of pink hang, and then the butcher man will have a fag in his mouth. Nice. And then like,
you know, shirtless, just apron. And then the apron are absolutely filthy. And then, you know, have the cleaver's like, "Which part do you want, babe?" And then slap it down.
So you have that. And then you have the fishmongers, which obviously, you know, our Chinese will look like everything live. So you just basically... pick it out and the guy literally you know got everything done then next door you have the poultry guy which have cages of geese,
duck, chicken and you pick them out so and you know like when they're live chicken how do you know whether that chicken is meaty is it does it have too much fat layer etc so then I was then taught okay you pick up the two wings flip the bird over blow it into the feather so you get to see the skin,
and then from there if you see specks of yellow and blah blah blah near the butt area, meaning wise that the bird is too fatty, pick another one, that sort of thing. And Chinese are so much to the extent that,
oh, there are these chicken that, okay, have not laid eggs before, so taste tastier, and then therefore they're used for other... other dishes. And then then the ones that who have laid eggs before is for other dishes.
So you know, they have, and you actually learn all these trick of the trade, just going to the wet market, which no one normally would tell you. So how old were you when you started to get...
Roam around the wet market. Yeah, so because also I think from a parent's perspective, for me I feel... something like that is extremely,
extremely important because I feel nowadays that that is too clinical, that food education doesn't sort of come into play. And I'm not saying every single parent does that,
but I feel that sort of 60 % of kids these days don't necessarily have. Yeah, they see it. They sit on the fridge packet. Yeah, right. Okay, I see thighs. They don't see that sort of.
food knowledge. No, they don't. So at that time, was it just fun for you to learn about all of these sorts of things? No, it wasn't. It's just kind of because my mom says something like this,
my grandma also. So it's ingrained in the culture. Yeah, so you kind of remember all these things. And also at that time, where because it's still the early 80s of Hong Kong, so China hasn't quite opened.
So when the time that whenever my grandma needs to go up to China to visit her relatives, it's like we literally have to hurl everything to them. Like, you know,
like nowadays when you see the Filipinos, I'm sure your nan, you see them, it's like they send, they would put bars of soaps and shampoo into the luggage and you kind of always ask the question, do they not sell that sort of thing in Philippines?
Why would you need to buy so much? And that's all we know with us now. not the same." But at that time in China, as a January, they don't have it. So then we become like the human lungager, or whatever you want to call it,
her the stuff up with us. - Yeah, so this is where the fun part comes in. - Wow. So then, obviously, 'cause I'm just trying to think, like you must have seen so much stuff.
- I've seen so much stuff because, obviously, with the wet market... market in China is a complete different ball game than the ones of Hong Kong And then it's just I think I think Asia Because of obviously gone through all their so -called trials and tribulations Yes,
those were all to how the way they pick themselves up It evolves so the wet market almost evolve with the situation Club club.
So if you look at nowadays you know, the evolution of Hawker market and how now that, you know, we start to see the glorify version, which is time out market to,
oh, cloud kitchen. So to me as an Asian, cloud kitchen, Hawker market, same, same, but this ultimately speaking is, it does it cook the food.
Is it in that golden? formula where it's not more than 15 dishes that someone can knock it out within one and a half minute per dish in out go?
So that's what that's what it was? It was because obviously when you're so specializing in something you just want to make sure okay, I am not going to do more than 10 ms on plus. Now this 10 ms on plus needs to give me at least 12 dishes to get the stall rolling so I can feed the family.
family, that sort of thing. So how do you go? So when we all talk about, you know, like Michelin style, menu engineering, no menu engineering, if we look at it and crawl it back to the bare essentials from an Asian perspective,
there is no such a thing called menu engineering. It's purely a way of survival in the most economical and efficient manner.
manner. Do you know what I was thinking? That is amazing because if you strip it right back and you have those 10 to 12 ingredients that you bear essentials,
then basically from those, you can smash out another 10 dishes. It's actually a very smart system. So it goes back such a long way. But then that also then becomes a Achilles heel because the work itself is so hard.
Hmm. So then when you come back to a cultural perspective is the ones that who run very successful food store would not want their kids to do it. So then they ended up really pushing the whole Asian style of Fargoa studying,
you know, stuff them, stuff them. So then they all become doctors and lawyers and everything else. And there is no one to pass on the trade because at the beginning is the parents do not even see.
the work being a chef or being in the hospitality is something of a worthy career. I think this is the way that we look at it. - So then,
I want to just sort of ask you, from your early childhood, you had that fantastic, 'cause I think it's amazing, education. - I'm not sure about anything. - Well, I know, I think it's cool. I think it's cool,
you know. know you know I used to play with gas and fire when I was a kid you know so but I want to say I think that is a phenomenal sort of way of educating your kids especially when an animal is live also you don't get that nowadays do you ever unless you're growing up on a farm okay in my house I tended to try to do that quite often because I like to buy like life crabs and whatever else and you know
trying to teach my kids how to shuck a oyster. So, but-- - Isn't that cool? I think it's amazing. - Yeah, but they look at it as like, "Mommy, I'm hungry. I'm just waiting for you to sort this thing out." - But do they take that knowledge on,
though? - No. - Do they want to? - I don't, I haven't quite really pro the devil. You know, you don't prod the devil. But the thing is, you know, with them,
it's like, you know, taking them to Deera fish market yeah it's nice teaching them how to look at aka you know how do you pick whether the fish is good you know looking at the guild which I'm sure a lot of them won't do it because you go to Deera fish market and then you go in there I always said that there's some sort of a major interior malfunction right there yeah dried seafood is very pungent and that needs
to have a special chamber to screen that off to not let that musty smell permeate into the rest of the floor. So for the listeners who have never been to the Dubai waterfront fish market it is and for the first time that you go in there it's an overload center system because first thing that smashes you is the pungent smell.
Then you go in and it's loud. Then everyone's trying to attack you by selling all these fish and you're sort of overwhelmed because there's so much going on. But I think for children, I think it's really,
it's a must thing to do. - It is a must thing to do, but it's just how... do we make it palatable? Yes. And how do we want to use a more digestible manner for people to rekindle that urge to want to go to markets?
Because every time when you go to Asia, everyone loves the street market, everyone loves this and that. But ultimately then, because they like the pristine all the-- veg and everything stacked up beautifully but the guys do it here but because they're all enclosed in this a condition place it lost a certain sense of authenticity because I remember still remember the old one which is right next to the Park Hyatt by the
yes you know you have the seagull coming in pecking off the you know the head that got thrown out that sort of thing you know that's what people wanted to see is is you need to kind of like down down a bit of the pristine right?
Okay, can I put it sort of get people more involved if you like or back in the sense of that. Exactly. So then as a teenager, or when would you say was your sort of first foray into thinking I want to be involved in food and hospitality?
So this is where the interesting conversation always comes in. everyone said, well, why do you want to go into restaurant at the first place? So I remember I was nine,
first time going to a slightly more fancy European restaurant and it was next to Happy Valley, which is the Hong Kong race course in the Hong Kong island side.
And that's the first time I see, you know, the tablecloth tablecloth surface and stuff like that. And then you see the people coming in and out. It's all very synchronized and orchestrated where,
you know, the very typical where everyone have the tray or the plate standing next to the table, everyone serve it at the same time. So that got me thinking, oh, this looks very interesting. And then because I'm mumbling in the police and she's like,
right, that's it. I'm sending both you and your older sister to UK Boarding School. Amen. amen. So that's when I become that quirky, anglified Chinese dad.
Could be very Brit at some times. I could be very Chinese at the same time, as sort of person. And then when I went to UK, that was like, it was a huge culture shock.
Because-- - So you were how old, nine? - Jesus, I literally graduated primary school when-- just got dunked old. Boom. Boom. Yeah, an older or younger sister? I have an older sister,
but obviously we weren't in the same room. And at that time it was like, Jesus, early 90s, I was in a dormitory, full bunk bed,
sharing room with eight other girls. My English was non -existent. You know, when people always think that, "Oh yeah, well, Hong Kong's supposed to be a British colony, "your English supposed to be D - Well,
no, it's not the case. May I really poignantly push that one out there and Especially when this when you're so young and you push into the room and my room was a very eclectic mix of British armies Daughters and that's when the first time I heard of the place of Abu Dhabi.
It was when I was 12 Because at first I was like, where? Who? What? What? Like this. And you literally have to go to the geography lesson, look at the globe.
Where is Abu Dhabi? Is that funny? Wow. Yeah. And how long were you at the boarding school for? How many years in total? My God, I did my whole secondary school in boarding school.
And then I was down at Ashford, Kent. which was quite fun. So I suffer through the great work of the Eurostar.
- Understood, understood. I remember it well. - Yes. - Wow, so. - And Kent is a very different beast. - It's a beautiful place. - It is,
but I was in Ashford. I wasn't in Canterbury. That's the different. That's like the ugly little. sister version. - So for anyone missing in Ashford, it's a very beautiful place.
- Yes, they now got a wicked designer outlet village that I go and then they have that micro brewery which is right next to the train station. - We'll have to talk about that later. So,
I'm just thinking about how vast your food sort of knowledge must have been because you had that incredible, incredible growing up in Hong Kong wet markets then shock into British food in the 90s,
which Let's not delude ourselves. It wasn't what it is today. Oh, no. I remember the first time I try a Meat pie on the Saturday market OP Jesus Well,
then Greg's you've done a good job nowadays (laughing) - They're not a sponsor, by the way, Greggs, so. - Definitely. - So, you graduated,
that's finished. Did you go straight back to Hong Kong? - No, so this is where the funny thing is, so up to the point of GCSE, I've always had the mirage of wanting to be an engineer.
Because I'm like, oh, it's so cool. There's hardly any female engineers. You almost be-- quite good fun. And as the thing goes on, that I'm like, really,
I am not that academic. I mean, I like numbers, but I don't like it fanatic enough that, you know, I would literally sit there and drill myself into a formula, that sort of thing. I like tinkling things.
You know, now, I'm sure we all know, you know, when you're in restaurants, you go into-- you see any machines, like, when everyone's like, oh, it's broken, I'm like, hang on. on. Broken where? What did you do?
Let's trace back the steps. So you then become like a forensic scientist going back to say, how on earth did you break that blender, my friend? I'm sure you've been there than that,
right? Yes. My dad used to be a mechanical guy. He used to fix washing machines from the scrapyard from zero. And then the funny thing is that every single chef that I worked with, they always asked me for two items that that I always think Is it really necessary?
One is a pacu jet. The other one is a thermal mix. Yes I know what our chefs. We love those. I know who like love Yeah, but then us who's the operation or who's ahead of ops that having to come up with the capex and look at you guys Really boys really?
I said how much money you're gonna make me and how much time you're gonna save you Quantified that and win me over I will consider. - So that's the engineering, that's the engineering side, right? - So how I become,
I wanted to do food and beverage was, obviously, you know, when you're in boarding school, you get times to go out for your half term and various things like, so half term, obviously we will go out to London.
And then we start going to go to restaurants and stuff like that. And I'm like, oh, this is very interesting. And then that's how the whole thing that,
it wasn't restaurant who caught me at my first glance, it was hotels. Because one of my uncle who was the exec housekeeper in the Prince Hotel in Hong Kong.
So obviously when the time, every time we go home for holiday, the hotels like to do all these different things that on Christmas time, they have Father Christmas. Christmas for the kiddos and various things. So I then get to see a little bit of the back of house.
And then that's when I'm like, oh, it seems interesting. I like to talk. I like to fix things. And there's a lot of different things you can do.
I mean, you can be at the front desk, you can do FNB, et cetera. So that was when the time that A -Levels, you know, looked at. at what subject to pick. And that's when I said,
you know, I wanted to hotel catering management. Oh my God, then it's like, I'm a garden in my house. What did your mom and dad say? My dad literally said, "Who the hell are you to think that I pay millions of Hong Kong dollars,
put you through boarding school and you decided to be a cook?" or you tried because in or you tried to be your nanny you know like basically go and serve people and then I was like okay so it's either that because I had to I had two things that I've been offered a place at UCAS so either is hospitality the other one was criminal forensic criminal forensic study and my mom then looked at me that subject do not
supposedly not pay by us all alternatively is you come back to Hong Kong you get into the Hong Kong police force and get them to pay you to come back to do this type of thing and I'm like no for me to come out from a cage of boarding school to go back into another cage was just Hong Kong police force I don't think so and also by that time was was the Hong Kong police force had the criteria of the level of
Chinese language. And I mean, I, dude, I've technically, technically only studied written Chinese up to the age of 10.
And then all these times has been kind of, you know, self -taught doing here and there. You think I will be prolific enough to tick, like, you know, if you let's say someone comes and report and you need to put the whole report in Chinese would you think I am prolific enough to write the damn thing I don't think so okay so what was the real turning key when your parents were or they didn't have a choice you just
wanted to go for no because of my sister she was the catalyst man oh she was the catalyst so she wanted them to do fashion design so she literally dropped the first bomb in the house she was the oldest yes because there's only two of us girls so she dropped the bomb already and my mom and dad already had that big cursing moment a couple of years back so when I told them what I wanted to do after he said that
I'm like so I this is the two option would you want what else you want me to do is I fine do what you want very good and then Lord had begun begun. That's it." So where did you go?
What did you study? So I first went to Westminster College. I did the HND first. And then that was quite funny. - Westminster Kingsway? - Yeah. - So basically that's where Jamie Oliver goes.
- Yes. And I actually got taught by the same chef lecturer when I was doing the chef module. So I still remember the day going to the chef module and you look at it and it's like, "Bro, why?" am I doing the salmon aspect for?
Gotta learn the basics made you gotta learn it and then next minute it's like queeling the egg and I'm looking at it's like why I Quite love that. I love the fact that you did that Because I was gonna wonder if I had much to ask you to do it now I'm sure you'd be able to do it And I will not do it.
So then after graduation, where was your first job? This then become a very interesting conversation. So it was just me being playful.
And I was like, you know, when you're at university, where do you normally hang out? Pumps, right? You can see where this is coming down. The place where all the cool kids hang still so I was like well Why not?
Let's go and try out the pump So what did Peggy do Peggy then went to find this you can call it almost one of the holy grail pubs in London is called The White Horse at Parsons Green aka Sloanie Pony and the reason why that?
place is so famous is between the two biggest football grounds of Fulham and Chelsea. So were you working Saturdays out on Sundays? I was a management trainee.
Oh, my God. And it's funny, because the thing is, the gentleman who runs that place, his name is Mark Dauber, still very well -recorded in the beer...
beer industry because they have this particular thing is called is it karma or Kramer whatever you know they have this plaque where you know if you are one of those top judges for Ailes and beer he's one of those right okay so he's highly regarded like a beer guide and all that I'm not worthy that's yes yeah so I was actually trained under him and it's quite fascinating because Aile is not something I would drink
and then you know how do you manage the cellar underneath how do you clean the cakes how do you clean the all the you know the pipes and everything so I get to learn that side of the funny thing and then it's more of the commercial because that hub turnover is phenomenal especially during match days my god that place really really.
And because of it being so famous or because of Mark being so famous, they're literally like kids coming over from Alabama or everywhere else wanting to learn about this whole beer thing.
And so I ended up having colleagues who are like running, like they literally fly it because upstairs there's also the accommodation. So there's literally people flying in like for a star jet for like six months.
months wanting to learn how to run a pub and everything else. And by then craft beer wasn't a big thing but it was just coming into play. So that must have been quite fantastic to see that.
It was it was really funny and then I was there for one year and after I was like no this is too raw. I need something more classy. Okay. So after after being involved in lots of hula fights in the past.
Yes, what did you do? I then went on to Oxo Tower I don't know where you went to Oxo Tower Which which which restaurants so and Because basically when I went in it was I was going in as a receptionist So then you learn to be the reservation and everything else So you get swing around between the brasserie and the restaurant,
right? Right. So there there isn't like a a strict protocol where okay you're in the brasserie or you're in the restaurant. That sort of thing. Okay. So that's when I really get to understand revenue management.
Okay. But from a restaurant perspective and how do you look at maximizing the number of seatings, the turnover of the table. Especially in a place like London, especially in a place like the Oxford Tower.
Tower. And then at the heydays, it was bonkers. It's a machine. It was bonkers. So obviously, you get to learn a lot of very funny things and everything else.
How to hand-- it's just-- because obviously, it's also attached to how many nickels being one of the parent of oxo. So then there is the retail aspect, et cetera,
the gift cards. then it's the corporate event. So you started to see all this dabble of things, which was fun. Wow, it must have been quite eye -opening for you. It was. I think I went from a very raw and ready to kind of have to then streamline myself back into some sort of refinement.
Yeah. I think that's the way I was going to put it. Wow. So then what I'm particularly interested in is how you got involved in the Michelin game. Wow. especially the fact that you worked for why I can only describe as iconic and legendary Joel Robichon.
How did that journey come about? So, um, Oxo is a machine and obviously they have such a large brigade. So obviously I was clued up to know that,
you know what, it's no point for staying here any longer because clearly, their way of running it is so systematic that there is no room for autonomy and there's no room for imagination.
So I then obviously put my CV out there for the sake of putting my CV out there and then I stumble onto this very interesting role which was the guest relation person struck the general manager PA for Tamron.
Now for people who don't know is Tamron is the first ethnic cuisine in Europe to receive a Michelin star. So is Northern Indian cuisine is Punjabi and is in Mayfair.
So that's when I embark on my stargazer, star chaser, whatever people want to call it of my career. And that's was a very,
very interesting company, because obviously, of the location of where it is being in Mayfair, first Michelin star Indian restaurant. That's when I really get to see the dabbling of,
oh, PR, restaurant PR, you know, you start asking questions. Oh, OK, Michelin star, well, what is Michelin star? How come suddenly, once you receive a star, you're overnight booking go.
goes up and then your menu price goes up and then the various other different things from the uniform, the plates, the briefing, it's all very different because compared to the days that when I was at OXO looking at the briefing,
it's about, okay, well, today we have so many, so many, so many, so many covers, we have these, this is special, make sure we push this, this is wine, today we need to achieve how much average spend per head.
[BLANK _AUDIO] it's very commercial when it was in Oxford. To compare to Tamron, it's like, oh, we have so and so a famous person coming in,
oh, they have a special dietary requirement, XYZ, oh, we have this other regular so -and -so who's a left -hander, make sure when we do the cutlery and whatever else is different. So from that commercially driven to suddenly attention to detail per personalization.
It was a eye -opener and Then having said that is on top of that dealing with corporate Obviously the corporate over at Oxel is very much like much bigger group,
you know team building dinners, etc But the corporates when you deal with Mayfair, these are the serious high rollers where they sit there You know the wines,
you know a special wine has to be come in we've had we've had very interesting VVIP where they wanted a chicken takeaway and they send a private jet over and the butler to come over just to pick up the chicken and to go back that is some of the most expensive takeaways that I've had the pleasure to handle because for people who don't know may in itself,
I would call it a dining city because you've got mission -in -starred restaurants all over the shop. You've got these sort of private boys' clubs all over the shop.
- Institutions. - Institutions, yeah. Some people would call them other words, but we can't repeat them on here. And you've also got very... fine, well I would say casual dining,
high dining, so it's a myriad of things. But what you're talking about is the top top end of dining and expenditure. So how long were you there for?
So I was there for two and a half years and then I think the biggest achievement out of that was so obviously you know Indian people love cricket. And then Lord's Cricket really being the holy grail the holy grail of course so this is where the interesting so at that point in time you know the corporate have all the VIP boxes around Lord's Cricket Ground and it is a coliseum to fight to be the Indian cuisine
supplier to cater for these boxes So I was part of the team to do the pitch and the bid. So that was some serious conversation and it was great fun.
It was to the point that we are not only looking at it as a food, there is a serious competitive business sense that rolls into it.
it, which if you look at it, and this is the question people always say, so Michelin, no Michelin, what is the difference? So this is where the difference comes in, is how do you really polish and drill down what is the USP of your brand and making sure that USP is sticking to the consumer for you to be memorable and for you,
for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for you to be memorable and for to feel you are worth that price tag. - Well, that must have been amazing to learn that, to really drill down into those things. Wow.
So two and a half years. - And then after that, I was like, you know, I think it needs to come back to the nature of our industry. When you are a certain skin color and when you are...
are certain gender, the stereotyping is ever -so prominent. And that's when all of these times I always said to everyone is I have not worked in fully in a Chinese restaurant,
but I know how it fully runs. It's because I don't want it to be pigeonholed because at that time when Tamron has the Michelin star, I think it's it was a couple of years,
one or two years later, that's when Alan Yao Hakasan got the Michelin star as well. And the amount of calls that I've been asked whether I want to join that team was,
I mean, thank you, I still feel very blessed, I'm very wanted. But then I didn't want to go over because I'm like, you know what, because once I get into a Chinese Michelin star restaurant,
then they were like, okay. okay, that's it. - And you'll stay there forever. - You just get pigeonholed. - Yeah, yeah, yeah. - So that's when Atama's like, you know what? I need the next jump. So then I went,
lord and behold, into Italian cuisine. - Didn't see that one coming. - I know. I didn't see that one coming either. And that's when my Italian is somewhat prolific.
My swear word is extreme. prolific in that retrospect. - Okay, nice. - Because of being in an Italian restaurant. - I'll ask later. - Please don't. If we want to know how prolific I was,
please go and speak to Palave while the two of us were at Host Milano this year. I have gobsmacked several Italians during the way and she said I should have filmed you and see how gobsmacked they were.
It was priceless moment. moment. - So which restaurant in particular did you go to? - So it was part of the group where it's got a London fine dining, so it's got Aloro, Saffarano,
Aubergine, so obviously that's where I got to know people like Marcus, Giorgio, et cetera, so it's within that group. So Aloro is the one that nestled right underneath the Browns Hotel.
- Mm -hmm. then because of what I do, I get swing around between Saffirano and Alloro. Right, okay. So that place is a very, very interesting place. It's not quite Michelin star,
but the spending is equal if not more than Michelin star. You literally have all the big commodity moguls who trades, goes there for lunches,
for a peritival, et cetera. cetera. And the average bill in that place, in London at that time, is very healthy. I mean, we see big bottles like Tinian Yellow,
Sasakaya, and all these, like, flies out. Every year, when it's white truffle season, the amount of white truffle that we give... I think we normally go through a kilo of white truffle every four days.
Mental. That's crazy. - Jeez. - And then I, you know, I got to the point that I got so second time white truffle. It was like, you know, I smell like one.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah. Wow, wow, wow, wow. - Yeah, so that's when I get to see the other side of restaurants where, because I was the lady who holds the vote for bookings.
And that's when you get shout with gifts. (upbeat music) And because they know I'm Chinese, I even get Chinese New Year pocket money from all these bosses. Sounds quite nice.
Yes, you know, like it's the same thing, you know, what every time people say, well, and this was a funny conversation. The other day I had with a friend of mine, Barack.
So Barack is now the general secretary of La 'Ore, which is the concierge association. Well, I call it the gold key. - Yes, yes. - And everyone don't realize the highest earner in a hotel like Dorchester is the doorman.
The doorman sometimes actually earn more than the GM. And people don't realize this. They're like, "Wow, that guy just opened the stupid door." - No, but those concierges, they are like a wealth of knowledge.
- Exactly. So I become then the restaurant for key holders. So whenever the boys wanted tables, and I'm like, "No,
I don't have tables." Then I said, "I really don't have tables, guys." It's not like, you know, it's like, we know you have a secret stash somewhere, Peggy. I'm like, "Where, you wanna sit on my head or something?" And that's when,
like, they would send their secretary or they'd send their bodyguard over, envelopes and whatever else. (laughing) name it sounds like a film it is it is and it's like Christmas time you know us girls get like Louis Vuitton bags and stuff like that you know half of the time you look at it it's like my god so so but the fun thing the most thing I learned in the Italian restaurant was how to elevate spend is the art
of the it I was never in the game of Somalia to be fair I've never I only know hey as booze we slosh it it's a very bright way right you never see the whole composition of okay well which dish goes well it's not the golden formula where oh you know if it's meat it has to go with red wine there is the variation now if it's white truffle then what do you have it with it so that's when the time that I started
to learn wine, grappa, cognac. And that's when I got introduced to all these finer things like Louis Trez and whatever else that it may be.
Wow. So from there, you obviously learned, because I'm just trying to, I'm seeing a pattern where you went from the pub,
then the oxo tower, you know, and First Mission Star, which sounds like it was a big, big eye opener, to then go into the Italian. - Yes,
and still have the Michelin Star. - Yeah. - And then after that, I did something. Everyone looked at me, "Think what on earth were you smoking that day "when you say yes to that?" So I then went on to be the project manager to build the Punchbow pub.
pub for Guy Ritchie in Madonna. - Oh, wow. So, this is gonna take me down a completely different rabbit hole,
Peggy. So, I'm not gonna ask about Madonna, but I am gonna ask about Guy Ritchie. So, because I'm just trying to think how on earth,
so how were you approached for this? of all so how I was approached at the first place was obviously the punch bowl is not only guys and Madonna they have other shareholders so the other shareholders was the owners of Mahiki right Mahiki is this well to do nightclub well the the pre and not the pre prince and princess of whales hang out joint,
that's the way I'm gonna put it that way. - But we're talking about the one in London, not the one obviously that was in Dubai. - Yes. - Yeah, okay. - So obviously those guys were my regulars at the Alloro and Saffarano.
- Okay. So they knew you very well? - They know me very well. And then they know I was about to want to exit. So I say, well, Peggy, what do you want to do? What have you done before? So I'm like, you know what, I just fling my CV over.
as anyone do." And the next minute they saw, "Oh, be Jesus, that woman I've gone and worked a slony pony." So that's how that first job of mine landed me that job.
Right, okay. Yeah. Wow. So you obviously got the job. Did you meet them both? Yes. Okay. No, I think that I need to give a bit of history.
So punchball as a... pup yes actually agree to list the building right right right because historically if you look back so i think someway somehow said that is the oldest pup existed in thailand okay so therefore there is a lot of the interior cannot be touched and can only bring in specialists like you know historical and anti -crestore to come and do the work.
Okay. Which is a huge expense in itself. It is. And also is these guys are extremely challenging to manage, because obviously they are so -called a sort after builder in an extent,
if you want to go down. And they have to take their sweet time as well. It's not only the sweet time, it's a lot of the materials. that they like very specialized It is the liquor the varnish or whatever it has to come from with certain places And obviously those places are very artisan as well So,
you know, you have to wait for those people okay to turn the thing out and then so dealing with the timeline was Stressful so from the time that you got the job the time of opening.
How long was that? It took 18 months. Okay cool cool. So you opened 18 months. Obviously, I'm not going to ask you about the craziness of that 18 months,
because that must have been quite stressful. It is, because of the fact that there, because you need to balance the expectation of all shareholders. And also, so I could imagine,
and I'm just assuming, some of the shareholders obviously are operators within the business, and they understand. And then other operators who may be in other lines of work will not necessarily know what it takes to build,
operate nightmare, I can imagine. And the licensing and various others, because obviously the neighbors next to the pub are some of the big boys and girls like,
you know, the first female QC, and you can't... Right, right, right. Right, right, right. right, right, and at the end of the day, you're a pub The noise control the crowd control Dealing the council dealing with dealing with the council dealing with the bouncer.
Mm -hmm dealing with the paparazzi. Yes. Yes. Yes It was sounds sounds Almost sounds like you know, you would have had to call your mom at times Mama just got this guy that have to deal with with.
What's the best way to... No, I think it was quite funny because obviously just going back because my mum and dad never quite approved my choice of career.
So there was really no way of me explaining to them my fun or trials and tribulation. So long as they know that the daughter still exists.
- Okay, so that's pretty much the whole scenario. So I kind of went through the whole thing myself. - Okay, so then,
so tell me, after the 18 months, how was all the openings and managing everything up until that time tricky? - London is a very interesting place.
place and luckily at that time, because of the fame of the owner, I have to say, I've had the best looking team ever.
I mean, they were spanking pretty from the girls to the boys. But did they do the job? I mean, I don't care about looks, ops -wise. Ops -wise,
some of them do do a decent job. Okay. Okay. I wouldn't say all of them do. And you're talking about front of house or also the chefs? The chefs, no. The chefs are...
The chefs are chefs at the end of the day. Yeah. No, I mean, I don't mean to be rude. Ultimately speaking, when you go into the pub, what is the pub grub that you normally have? Fish and chips. Pies.
Bangers and mash. Yeah. Gammon fried egg. Yeah. You know, but a slightly more elevated version, like, you know, we have Delphine and our Potatoes. Okay, and that was the menu?
Yes, and then, you know, we have like the mushroom volavon. Right, okay, got you. So it's a slightly... So it's pub food, but elevated. So we would say...
It's called a gastro bar. Exactly. So that's, I think, at that point in time that is kind of like a posh gastro pub. Yes, I'm with you. So, so I think, I think if I look back at...
my journey, I seem to be hitting the spot at every single start of the trend, that sort of fling. Because you want to look at it that way. Yes, because gastropubs were the thing. Yes. And then ultimately it led to Tom Carriage getting two Mission Stars in the first one,
the only one I think in the world. Okay, so after the punch bowl with Madonna and Mr Richie. Then I God had hunted all over to Robichon.
Okay. And which location? So, who's the London location? So, they needed someone to come in head. And so, the title is Marketing and Communication Stroke Business Development.
Basically, it's, "Woman, you're there to get the numbers in." Okay. So, if I remember correctly, so when Robichon came over.
At the time I was working for Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's and there was a huge buzz around the fact that that was going to open and a few of the boys actually left from Ramsay to then go to Robeshawn and He did he go in at one star or two star straight away.
They go in as one star straight away. Okay, so yeah, that's it so they go in Everyone's buzzing about the recipe beautiful food. The counter, the experience,
the whole thing, yes. How was that? Again, so going back through your journey, how was that for you when you were there managing such a big name?
Because that's a serious gastronomy iconic name. So this is where the different comes in. So the time that you look at it was when they first opened. Yes.
When I go in they've already traded two years. Right. And they were going through some major decision, is they're not making the numbers. Right. So as we all say,
I'm nothing stereotyping myself, you know, when you need numbers to be done right, what nationality do you bring in? You're bringing either the Chinese, the Indian or the Jews. Okay. Okay, so that was the decision they made.
But surely they must have also just looked at your experience in CV and gone past the nationality, surely. They haven't, because you have to look at it. I think, because my GM then was a Italian gentleman,
Venetian. So he speaks, he studied in Swiss school. He was ex -FMB manager of the Metropolitan Hotel. Right. - Right. - So he is the one who come in and literally change over the whole fringe thing.
And I remember when I first started and how the way I still vividly, and I can swear by if any of my ex -Rubishan colleagues who watched this, they would know exactly what I said is absolutely true.
I felt like every day I was one of the main actress at Le Miserable. It's me against the wall. Because you know exactly the boys are talking about you.
They all speaking in French. They're like, what is this Chinese woman doing here? So I literally say, gentlemen, this is the PNL. This is what it looks like.
I am here to turn it something else or the door is going to get closed. The choice is you either come and work with me or I will make you work with me. me and the rest is we can go for a pint at the pub and that's it so how so after all these issues when was the turning point for you that you and how long were you there for first of all Jesus I was there from 2009 to 2015 so I went from single to be
married and had two kids in there and it was all in London all in London wow and then uh and then I was part of the rain too for the opening of Shanghai and Bangkok yeah wow so you must have seen a lot I think so you did so you did your job I think I think up to an extent was Ruwishon was a completely different can I call it a beast probably because it's international conglomerate conglomerate.
It's, it rhymes so much on the big name of Mr. Rubuchon. And at the same time, it is Mr. Rubuchon's way of management is very different.
And I actually really cherish that from a chef perspective. So if we look at the likes of now all the different chefs around the world, from Alan Dukas to Pierre Gagnier and various others,
to Daniel Balloud. Balloud. So Mr. Robichon is the first person to obviously do this type of Japanese counter -style dining and really let people to see well what is a whole French cuisine can still be so artistically displayed and not with the tablecloth with not with that whole stuffiness that you have to be be,
you know, dressed all suit and booted. So that part that I really enjoy. The other part I really enjoy is his way of use of ingredients and his way of allowing the autonomy for the chef to shine.
That's when he then developed this whole thing, he called him the Champignon, which is all these, I call them like the protegees, or he has like, okay, this is. is Chef Francois,
which is his head patissier. Then you have Monsieur Juan, which is the Metro de Hotel who oversee the operation standard and going around, et cetera,
doing all the opening and various other, Eric Bushnoir and various others. So, and then every year he would, so when every year there is the, every time when there is the milieu of,
which is the French craftsman. Yes. Yes thing He would actually go into his all the restaurants to say okay this year I think you're ready for the million of and then he will then get his Team of champion to go and coach that person to go for the competition.
Wow So this is one of those things that I really cherish to see that Yes, he keep a very touch ship and him is very proud man,
and yes, he is a con freak and rightfully so. Because when you have such a prestige product and when you,
when with such a product, you feed so many mouth and so many facet of business that is related to it, you have to keep control.
But yet he still let them to have a certain level of autonomy, meaning wise is okay, the menu de jour. jour the set lunch menu or whatever Special they let them run special they let them do all these things to play with the dishes Which not every chef allows that sense of autonomy and from rust Exactly,
but also the fact is I because the thing is I've dine and I would say of my god I I almost dine around so many Rubish all that every I mean,
obviously all the ones in Asia I've done, I've done Tokyo, I've done Taipei, I've done Macau, I've done Hong Kong, all the ones in Paris,
London, New York then, yeah, so I've done quite a lot of Rubishaw around the world. And now even the great men have passed away,
you know, we know who's at where and as soon soon as you say your ex -wife was shown, the chef knows, so I was like, okay, we better not mess with that mashed potatoes, because that stupid woman will come and say something to me.
Yes. I think that's fantastic, so what a journey. So then, now we fast forward. For anyone who doesn't know, what is SPS affinity and what is it exactly that you do within those realms?
realms? - Okay, SPS Affinity is actually the name that I didn't chose, unfortunately or fortunately. It's been, it's a company that I joined and I now happily owned it.
So it's started off by a few English gentlemen. Obviously the other gentleman whom I inherited from is Mr. Martin Kubler. For the ones who don't know who Martin is, Martin is Hotelier,
a very eccentric German gentleman. gentleman with a high dosage of English sarcasticism. Okay. Yes. And then he was the gentleman who was the pre -opening and the opening hotel manager of Bonnington,
helped the mecheregas to bring mecheregas over from Ireland to Dubai. And then he gets lecture at Middlesex University. etc etc he's still now currently still writes on the column of the hotel and caterer magazine so how it the whole thing started with SPS was very much a they then called it the integrated hospitality consultancy where it does a bit of the social media PR and operation right okay and then I landed in
Dubai and by another job, which I'm not going to go through that part, so how the way now we've moded and shaped it is with the first Chinese specialist hospitality consultancy in the region.
So we specialize in Chinese marketing strategy and Chinese social media is looking at. how do you attract the outbound Chinese to come and die with you,
to stay with you? And how to manage all the things of, because China doesn't have Facebook, doesn't have Instagram, doesn't have WhatsApp. They have the only equivalent and we chat,
Little Red Book and various others. So we manage those, we analyze the statistics of that and we watch and to tell the hotel. is all the restaurant tourists to say guys we need to do better etc etc etc the other thing is we also do the on -ground or the offline which is they get your hotel or your restaurant Chinese ready well how do you be Chinese ready so the first question we always say okay we're in Dubai do
you accept the Chinese e payment Ali pay no okay do you you know whether you actually currently listed in any of the Chinese online travel like,
you know, booking .com, that sort of thing, OTAs? No. Okay. Have you thought of how to attract them? No. So that's when we peel it back in Baby Step to say,
"Okay, this is the locality of where you are. These are where the restaurants that close by that is As attractive to them and this is their general rating So if you want the Chinese to come first of all,
we need to have your menus ready You need to be listed on the certain Chinese trip advisor site And you need to be on Alipay because Alipay also have to Google dot mm -hmm to say Oh,
I can see you at Mall of Emirates So except Alipay in Mall of Emirates from bed there, they know where to spend. - All right, so I have probably 3 ,000 questions regarding this,
get ready. First of all, so I've been to Shanghai, loved the place. The first thing that struck me was the amount of restaurants.
- And the amount of people. - An amount of people, regarding the amount of restaurants, again, from fine dining to casual dining to shopping. food, but everybody seemed to be a hardcore foodie.
It doesn't matter what it is, they love food. So, first things first, UAE, but if we focus in on Dubai for now,
when it comes to the Chinese market, I mean, we know that the rest of the markets are very strong, they're coming in, they're coming in, they're coming in, they're coming in, they're coming in, they're coming in. are doing a great place to attract those different segments,
but specifically for the Chinese market, is it somewhere in your opinion that the Chinese would like to come, first of all? They would still want to come, it's not that they don't want to come,
I think we need to look at it from many different factors. But they are attracted to coming and experiencing the place. Okay, so we need to peel it off.
back as well. When did the, when UAE government decided to offer visa free for China National to visit, which is back in 2015,
2016. - Right. - Thereabout. So there was a herd, I mean, herds and herds of Chinese people. - Which is great. - So at that time,
the Chinese, when they visited, it was too easy for the-- industry to look at them because they come in school bus Like bus and bus load. They literally buy every luxury product, but they weren't ready. I mean,
I mean what I mean is to probably was not ready, but but it also embedded a search and Misleading understanding by the industry I would put it this way where they think other Chinese would come whether we promote or not promote promote,
whether we need to for them to understand us or not understand us." Okay. And now we have to fast forward to three years of the Chinese have been at home.
The domestic travel has excelled by over 250 percent. Right, okay. And the amount of international brands that has been opening hotels in China and therefore a front center.
So it's like You see Sheraton here. You see Sheraton in China. China has over 200 branches of Sheraton So they know what is the standard of that hotel?
China also have Michelin stars. We have it in Guangzhou everywhere. They have it in Macau They have in Hong Kong and they have it in Shanghai and they also have their own equivalent,
which is called a black pearl So to us Chinese the word called gastronomy tourism is not something that we don't know we've known it for a long time because China has 23 province okay each province produce different agriculture and it has and their own incredible history exactly right so therefore is if I am someone from Hong Kong,
I'd love to go up to Sichuan to have the proper Sichuan hotpot. And that's the drive for me. There's certain urge, and that's what I meant by bucket list, is if I want to go to Sichuan,
what do I want to see? I want to see the panda. I want to have those really, really butt -kicking Sichuan hotpot and various other things. So,
that is a drive for gastronomy. tourism. So we need to look at it as we in Asia, the word gastronomy tourism, just like hawker market, just like wet market,
it's not a new term to us. It's not a buzzword either. It's always happened there because there is things to drive you to. It's like,
what was it the other day? If you go to Madrid now, there is still in the Guinness Book of Record the old restaurant in the world called Bhutan and they only serve the crispy suckling pig and the suckling goat I mean the queue of Chinese going there just for that one dish how many Chinese does that one restaurant bring to Madrid for holiday right so it's as a Chinese you go to Madrid you go for three things for
the lads is real Madrid yeah - Yeah. - For the families are the food, the churros, actually churros even is the second, is the pig. - Uh -huh. - And then the shopping.
- All right. - Or maybe the matador, you know, seeing the bullfighting. But that's, but this is what I meant. This is what I meant by the USP, from a consumer perspective,
that have that alluring effect that they would go back. back. It's not the touristic destination of the glitz and glam.
It's not the attraction. It's the food. It's the food that evolves. And this is the thing that I always said to all my hoteliers, friends, is yes,
if you look at the dissect of a money perspective from a revenue management of your accommodation in comparison to your FMB. FMB, accommodation will always come out more because there's less maintenance.
And what I meant by the less maintenance is the fact that you are not going to change your room decoration every three months, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. You change it maybe once five years or maybe,
you know, once every ten years, that sort of thing. And you go for the complete revamp. And when you do the revamp, you then have to do the relaunch party and everything else to go with it. it. But restaurant,
we have to change every three months, minimum. Then is the guest chef. Oh, then is this a festivity. Then is that festivity is how do you entice people to come in?
What are the hoops to bring them in? Food is the element to bring them in. The other thing that I keep saying to everyone as well is food and beverage. Michelin star restaurant is an attainable luxury.
Now, some people might not agree with what I said, but hear me out. When you go to somewhere like Aftara, which is the first Indian vegetarian restaurant, if you just go for the 16 course menu itself,
it's 500 dirhams. And 16 course Michelin Star restaurant, that is good value for money. (upbeat music) considering the beverage without considering anything else.
So that in itself is attainable luxury if you are going for that. The beverage, the everything else,
those are the added proposition depending on your pocket size. But that in itself, it gives people the opportunity to enjoy their life. sense of,
well, what is luxury? And that luxury stays on your palate and stays on your memory. And that's the difference. So Peggy,
as you were talking about Chinese food, your eyes lit up. So I want to sort of, because what's really striking, especially over the last two years,
is the amount. amount not only that the Chinese community is here within the UAE but the amount of restaurants and that people don't necessarily know about that are serving phenomenal Chinese food and I don't like to call it underground because not underground it's just that people don't know about it right but tell me about those little communities communities and pockets of restaurants because this for me is gold But I
think if you look at Dubai, you know, we we have Mina Bazaar, we've had Karama and Umetha, which is where you go for your charts your your your thing It's is where the community starts.
Yes, they live the life in this city Shall we put it this way so how the whole international city come about was? was obviously one of the Chinese gentlemen went to them and said,
"Yes, I went to Yigu, "which is the most famous market in China." Literally, you literally have to be on a golf buggy to get through the whole damn place.
It is that big. And it's the wholesale market where they sell everything from your flashing, you know, laser beam light for your car. car all the way up to a machete,
that sort of thing. Right. So, that's when they started the whole idea of Dragonmart. So, well, once you started Dragonmart, you need somewhere to facilitate for the people who work there to stay.
So, that's where the whole international city comes up. And obviously, the Chinese cluster is the closest to Dragonmart because that's how the whole project started at the first place, right? So,
when you go into the Chinese cluster, of international city, it is like, can we call that a mini Chinatown? Probably, it's bigger than that. There is so many different Chinese cuisine because it depending on the wave of Chinese coming in,
even nowadays you go back to the, because before Dragomart come along, they, there's still a lot of Chinese trader trades around Banyas and Knife, which is where the gold souk and also Kiz.
is and you have then a school of Chinese restaurant there too and those are like the old old Chinese like right bang there and then then is the international city so I would say these are the two places where you really see how when we say Dubai have over 150 nationalities this is where you see where this 150 nationality mingles is you see what the different food.
I mean, if I go into international city now, I have the Afghan kebab next to the Chinese hand -drawn noodles. This is how interesting the food collaboration comes into play.
It's not difficult to go and hunt out for food if you have the urge to hunt out for it. Now, of course, when the menu doesn't write English and you're looking at it,
there, everyone, there's no the usual faces, people get freaked out, but you shouldn't be. Ultimately speaking is, "Dobamnness, Halsey, I've done such a good job." If these people are able to open their shop,
that means their food is okay to eat, otherwise they would not be granted a license to start with. Now, the next thing is how palatable it is. This is entirely up to your preference.
preference of the day, because I could be one day running down to international city. I said, "You know what? I quite fancy having the Afghan kebab." And then, but then I also wanted my dim sum.
So I do my own food hop, generally. And my son and my daughter loves this. It's like, you know, we go to the bubble tea place,
pick up the bubble tea first, g