The Pool Guy Podcast Show

Pool Filter PSI Decoded: Clean, Dirty, or Trouble?

David Van Brunt Season 10 Episode 1926

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0:00 | 18:26

Your pool’s pressure gauge can save you hours of guesswork, or it can trick you into cleaning the wrong thing at the wrong time. We walk through what pool filter PSI (pounds per square inch) actually means, why higher pressure usually equals more restriction and less circulation, and how that loss of flow shows up in real life: cloudier water, weak returns, a spa spillway that barely spills, and cleaners that stop moving like they should.

We also get specific about filter types. DE filters and sand filters often follow the classic rule of thumb where about a 10 PSI rise over clean pressure signals it’s time to backwash (and for DE, recharge). Cartridge filters are a different story. Small single-cartridge systems may show a clear PSI climb as they clog, but large quad cartridge filters can run for months with almost no gauge movement, so you need to pair the pressure reading with water quality, flow clues, and a consistent filter cleaning schedule.

Variable speed pumps change the whole PSI game because pressure depends on RPM. If the system is running low speed when you check it, the gauge may look “normal” even when the filter is loaded. We share the simplest way to get a meaningful reading: run the pump at full speed briefly and compare that number to your recorded clean PSI. Finally, we cover red-flag readings like near-zero PSI (broken gauge, low water, air, impeller issues) and sudden very high PSI (possible return-side blockage) so you know when it’s more than routine pool maintenance.

• defining PSI and why higher pressure usually means lower flow
• finding and tracking each pool’s clean filter pressure baseline
• spotting flow loss through spillways, water features, and cleaners
• knowing when DE and sand filters need backwashing
• understanding why large quad cartridge PSI often barely changes
• using full-speed readings to evaluate filters on variable speed pumps
• diagnosing near-zero PSI from dry running, air leaks, or impeller clogs
• treating sudden high PSI as a possible return-side blockage

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Why Filter PSI Matters

SPEAKER_00

Hey, welcome to the Pool Guy Podcast Show. It's been a while since I've talked about pool filter PSI. I'm going to go over this with you here, and this is a critical part of pool maintenance, and something that I think you have to really pay attention to. And if you've been doing this for a while, you know exactly what I'm talking about. And I'll unpack this here so you'll learn all you need to know about PSI and pool pressure gauges. Are you a pool service pro looking to take your business to the next level? Join the pool guy coaching program. Get expert advice, business tips, exclusive content, and get direct support from me. I'm a 35-year veteran in the industry. Whether you're starting out or scaling up, I've got the tools to help you succeed. Learn more at swimmingpoollearning.com. What exactly is it when we refer to the PSI or the filter pressure? A lot of times you're going to hear in the industry we say, What's the PSI? Or some people will say what's the filter pressure. They're both indicating the same thing. PSI actually has it does actually stand for something, and that's pounds per square inch, and that's what that stands for. But no one really talks about it in that detail. We just say the word PSI, and that's kind of the way of us describing what the pressure of the filter is. So it's the amount of resistance in the filter itself. In an easy sense to get an idea, the higher the PSI in the filter, the less flow is going back into the pool. So if you have a filter at 20 psi, it's going to have a lot more flow than a filter at 35 or 40 psi, and that's because there is more resistance at 30 or 40 psi than there is at 15 or 20 psi. And every pool system is slightly different. There's a Facebook group in Florida called 14 PSI, and that's kind of a tongue-in-cheek because someone had said that the clean filter pressure of a cartridge filter in Florida, which typically are those single single cartridge cartridge filters, is 14 psi. That's debatable, of course, but they stuck with it and that's how they named their group. But basically, the pressure gauge when the filter is clean will give you an indication of what your starting pressure is. And it's a little bit different at every pool, a little bit different per filter type as well. And so this is something that you'll learn out there is that every pool you go to will have a slightly different PSI starting as far as when the filter is clean. And you'll know some pools the PSI will be different as well, indicating when the pool is dirty. Just as a rule of thumb, the higher the PSI, the more likely there's resistance, and the slower water will circulate, which means that the pool may not look as good. If the pool is at 20 psi versus 30 psi, 20 psi, the water clarity will be better. The flow will be better. If you have a spillway, a spa spillway or water features, you'll notice at 20 psi. If that's your clean filter pressure, again, it differs at every pool. You'll notice the water coming out of the water features or spilling over the spa very rapidly. But when that gets to 30 psi, the water is not moving quite as much or very it trickles over the spillway, maybe, and the water features may not even be returning water. When I get to a pool and I look at it, I'll always assess what's going on with the pool. And if there is a spa spillway and I notice that the water is just barely trickling over into the pool, right away my first thought is that the filter PSI is high and the flow to that pool is restricted. Now for some practical applications here as far as pool PSI, you're going to have a difference in the dirty level of the filter, really based on the filter type. And I'll give you a good example here. If you had a 60 square foot D filter and the clean PSI is 20, when it goes to 30 PSI, that's usually a good indicator that that filter is pretty dirty, the water flow will be restricted. So you'll have to take that D filter apart or backwash that D filter if you can lower the PSI down. But if you have a cartridge filter, a four cartridge quad filter, let's just say it's 520 square feet, and it's at 20 psi, and then four months later, it's still at 20 psi. It hasn't changed at all over the course of four months. And that's really typical of a cartridge filter, the quad type cartridge filters. You're not going to see a huge fluctuation in the pressure of that filter, even though a D filter after four months is definitely going to go from 20 to 30 psi easily because it's going to get full of dirt. That pool with a cartridge filter, again a 500 square foot cartridge filter, the pressure gauge is not going to change from 20 psi to 30 psi typically on a cartridge filter because there's a lot more square footage of area at a cartridge filter. You're talking a 60 square foot D filter. By the way, there's other factors as well. DE is set up differently. The grids are coated with diatomaceous earth, allowing for less flow when it starts to get dirty. That's a big factor, regardless of the square footage. With a cartridge filter, since you have all these pleats in the cartridges, even when the cartridge starts to get really dirty, you're not generally going to see a quad cartridge filter, the PSI change in that filter. And so this is why it's really important to understand the type of filter the pool has and the starting PSI and when the filter actually needs to be cleaned, not just based on the PSI of the filter gauge, but also of the water quality of the pool that you're seeing. And just of course, common sense with the time, the amount of time that you normally would clean the cartridge filter and a D filter. So typically in my area, we clean the filters every four to six months because we have full size, you know, four cartridge filters or full size D filters, and in between we're backwashing D filters. Cartridge filters, you don't have to do that because there's a larger capacity. Now, if you have a single cartridge filter, or if you're in an area where the cartridge filters are usually single cartridge, you're gonna notice a definite increase in the PSI as that cartridge filter starts to get dirty. I'm talking about a 100-150 square foot cartridge filter by itself. This will be something that you'll notice the PSI going up on versus the quad four cartridge type filter. So it's important to note when you clean the filter or put new grids in the D filter or put new cartridges in the cartridge filter, what exactly is that starting PSI? Now here's where it gets a little tricky with variable speed pumps because what truly is the starting PSI on a variable speed pump? And I'll default to a single speed pump to give you an idea of where your starting pressure should be. So if you have a I'm gonna just use my previous examples, a four-cartridge 500 square foot filter and a 60 square foot D filter, and you have a variable speed pump, you would want to put that pump at the maximum speed, 100% speed, which is the 3450 RPMs of a single speed pump, and you would run that for a couple minutes, and then you would mark the pressure gauge at that point of what that would be at the full pressure or the full speed of that pump. And this is where the PSI gets really tricky out there, and why it's something that as we get more and more variable speed pumps, it's getting much harder to rely on the standard you know 10 PSI over the clean mark means that the filter is dirty. It's very difficult out there with variable speed pumps, especially if you get to the pool and it's not running at high speed, to really tell if that filter is dirty. And that's why you have to understand other factors in the pool that indicate that the flow is not working. Automatic cleaner, if you have a suction cleaner, it's not moving rapidly in the pool or moving correctly or just sitting there, the spa spillway, the water clarity, if it's getting cloudy, then the filter may need to be cleaned because the indicator of the pressure on a lower speed will not let you know if that filter is clean or dirty. So logically, if you have a D filter or a sand filter and you want to know if the filter needs to be backwashed, go ahead and put it on the full 3450 100% output on the variable speed pump, which is the full speed, high speed, full speed, and then you'll look at the pressure gauge, and that will be a good indicator for you if that filter needs to be cleaned. For instance, if you have a D filter and you suspect, you know, it's been three months since you cleaned it, that maybe the pool needs to be clean, turn it on full speed, and if the clean PSI is 20 and you turn on full speed and it's showing 32 PSI or something like that, then you know for a fact that that filter needs to be backwashed. And so with the rail speed pumps, turn them on full speed, full output to get an idea of if that filter needs to be clean. It doesn't really matter too much again with the cartridge filters, if it's a quad cartridge filter, what the actual PSI is on low speed, medium speed, or high speed, because that gauge is not really a good indicator of when that cartridge's cartridge needs to be clean. The only time I've ever really seen the pressure rise on a quad cartridge filter is when the cartridges start to get really old. You know, the bands are broken, it's been three or four years since they've been changed, they're not really that great in great quality or shape. Then the PSI will definitely go up somewhat in a quad cartridge filter to indicate that the cartridges are going bad. But again, you won't really know until you take it apart and clean it, and that's why it's really important to be on a standard filter cleaning cycle. In my area, I clean all my filters in March, and then I clean them again in October, September, October. Every six months I clean the filters. So, regardless of the PSI, I know my pools and I know which filters tend to get dirty during those periods in between the filter cleaning, which ones stay relatively clean, and you'll get to know this more on your route. And you won't rely so much on the filter pressure of the gauge, but more or less on the sense of the pool. You're gonna know this pool pretty well and the filter of the pool, and when that filter needs to be cleaned. I would say a sand filter is very similar to a D filter as far as the pressure or PSI. And a sand filter, let's say 20 psi is clean. When it gets to 30 psi, you're gonna see it definitely drop a drop-off in the flow of the pool, and you're going to have to, of course, to clean backwash that sand filter, just as if you would backwash a D filter. The only difference is with a D filter, you're gonna have to recharge that filter with some diatomaceous earth. And that was a pretty long segment unpacking why the pressure gauge is sometimes not the best indicator, although they're on the filter for a reason. And I'll give you some indicators of the pressure gauge when you're going to notice a pretty major problem. So if you get to a pool and the pressure gauge is near zero, even on a medium speed or low speed on a VRL speed pump, if it's just at zero, there could be a couple things going on at this point. Number one, that pressure gauge could be broken, so tapping it with your finger is a great indicator of if that's working or not, especially if it's getting older. The second thing that's probably happening there is that there's something going on with the actual pump itself, and it's not being able to pull the water from the pool. Sometimes it's just something as simple as low water in the pool, and that's why the pressure gauge is low. Could be running dry. If you look into the pump lid and you see air in there but no water moving, then of course this it has run dry, as we call it in the industry, and you're going to have to prime reprime that pump. A lot of times, if the if something gets past the pump basket into the impeller, you'll notice that the PSI is really low, and that the pump indicate indicate indicator with the pump is that when you look into the clear lid, the water is only about halfway up, it's not all the way to the top, and there's a lot of air in there. I usually take that, turn off the pump, take the basket out, and then I'll take a flathead screwdriver and I'll spin the impeller, they dislodge any debris in there, I'll fill up the pump with water, turn it back on, and typically the PSI will return to normal. So low PSI is an indicator that the pump isn't pulling the water properly for any number of reasons. But typically a clogged impeller or low water where the pump ran dry and then or the O-ring is bad on top, and then on the other side of that, really, really high filter pressure, high PSI can indicate some blockage in the filter, and this could be a very dangerous situation. So if you turn on the pool and you notice the PSI spikes from zero and it goes all the way to 50, you know, all the way to the end of the gauge, you know there's a serious problem. And if you know your pools pretty well, you're gonna know when there's a problem. I have this one cartridge filter, there's a lot of cypress trees around it. So whenever I clean this cartridge filter, I know for a fact that there's gonna be some cypress leaves that get back into the return line when I take the cartridges out. It's just unavoidable in this pool. And so when I turn this pool on, I always watch for a spike in the in the psi. So it's a quad cartridge filter. I'll clean the filter, I'll turn it back on, and if it's at 20 psi, I'm fine. But if I turn it back on and it's at 30 psi or 35, then I know that there's some Cypress debris that's clogged in the return line, and I'll usually unscrew the salt cell, clean that out, and then that's usually fine. So every pool is a little bit different, but sometimes a really high PSI like 40 or 50 means that there's some kind of blockage in the return line. Another pool that had a similar problem, and this was a check valve that broke off and got jammed into the heater, and that was slowing down the flow, and it was giving me a really high PSI in that pool. So, in summary, basically if the PSI goes up by 10 and a D and sand filter, that's a really good indicator that you have to backwash those and with Z filter backwash and recharge it. With a sand filter, just backwash it. With a cartridge filter, if it's a single cartridge filter, you'll notice an increase in the PSI from let's say clean PSI of 15. And then if it gets to 25 or 30, that cartridge filter needs to be cleaned or replaced for the quad cartridge filters. Not much change in the PSI with those. So those the main indicator is the water quality and the flow of the pool. And every pool is a little bit different, and so you're gonna have to know your filters and know when the PSI indicates that the pool is dirty. But being on a standard timetable, of course, you know, cleaning your single cartridge filters every month, cleaning the quad cartridge filters every four to six months, cleaning the D filters every six months, this will give you an idea of when the pool filter is getting dirty, and the water quality will definitely be a hint. You know, the spa spillway, the automatic cleaner. Look for those kind of hints rather than re relying solely on the PSI of the filter gauge. Back in the day, we could rely on that completely for sand filters and D filters. But with all these variable speed pumps out there, the filter PSI is not a good indicator any longer that the filter needs to be clean. It is a good indicator if there's a problem again. You know, really low PSI indicates a problem with the pump or the impeller. Really high PSI indicates a problem with the return flow to the pool, and then you have a lot of different things in between, but mainly a dirty filter will cause the PSI to rise in a DE and cart in a D and sand filter, not so much in the larger cartridge filters. If you're looking for other podcasts, you can find those on my website, swimmingpoollearning.com. Click on the podcast icon on the banner. There'll be a drop down menu of over 1900 podcasts there for you. If you're interested in the coaching program, you can learn more at PoGuyCoaching.com. Thanks for listening to this podcast. Have a great rest of your week and God bless.