Pack Talk Podcast
Hosted by Chad Singer. Chad shares his knowledge on dog training, dog behavior, and dog psychology while also having interesting conversations with people from unique backgrounds. Episodes released bi-weekly.
Pack Talk Podcast
#160 How We Rehabbed a Reactive Dog (In 4 Steps)
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Your dog isn't broken. Most reactive dog training just skips the foundation. In this episode, we walk through the framework we use at Canine Revolution to rehab reactive dogs that other trainers called unfixable.
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What You'll Learn:
✅ The difference between aggression, reactivity, and frustration in dogs
✅ Where distance treating works — and where it falls apart
✅ How hand feeding and verbal markers build the foundation first
✅ Why obedience training gives reactive dogs a mental framework
✅ How to introduce an e-collar the right way for reactive dogs
✅ What real behavior modification looks like when the dog's brain flips
If you've spent money on trainers who told you to just feed chicken and cross the street — this episode is your reset. Reactive dog training only works when the foundation is in place first.
⏱️ TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Why reactive dog training keeps failing you
01:31 - Aggression vs. reactivity vs. frustration: know the difference
04:02 - Where distance treating works and where it fails high-arousal dogs
05:54 - Step 1: Hand feeding and verbal markers for reactive dogs
10:48 - Step 2: How obedience training gives reactive dogs a mindset
14:42 - Step 3: E-collar conditioning done the right way
19:35 - Step 4: Structured exposure over time for reactive dogs
22:15 - The breakthrough: when a reactive dog's brain finally flips
24:43 - Key takeaways: reactive dog behavior modification that works
WATCH NEXT:
📺 Dog Body Language: https://youtu.be/GeFzkht6mzw?si=eUKlU9ZYaPLpZoLJ
📺 Socializing Reactive Dog: https://youtu.be/bo66a0S8k1M?si=knfJM4vryKwhY7SX
📺 E Collar for Beginners: https://youtu.be/BJYHZEkNTnQ?si=PaaK_bltBh6cjjb6
#CanineRevolution #DogTraining #ReactiveDog #BehaviorModification #DogReactivity
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Pack Talk Podcast by Canine Revolution Dog Training
Video versions of podcasts on the Pack Talk Podcast and Canine Revolution Dog Training YouTube channel
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Welcome to Pac Talk Podcast episode 160. Today we're talking about how to rehab a reactive dog in four steps. I'm going to take you through our exact process because this happens to a lot of people. You're walking your dog, everything is fine. Then as you walk, another dog comes around the corner and your dog is completely losing it. You've tried the treat training. You've tried crossing the street. You've spent money on trainers who told you to keep feeding them chicken and treats at a distance. And your dog is still exploding, still can't handle the sight of another dog. It could also be a person, a thing. It doesn't just have to be dogs. Your dog is reacting to something. And the problem isn't your dog, the problem is the framework. And you've done your best to try and solve this problem and give your dog the skills it needs, but you've gotten some bad advice. Most reactive dog training skips the foundation, it jumps straight to symptom management. But today I'm going to break that down why it keeps failing and the four steps that we use at Canine Revolution to rehab the dogs that other trainers are considering unfixable. So why does reactive dog training fail? And just so you know, that surviving a walk, because we've all been there. You know, I've dealt with a very reactive dog myself, my own dog. But surviving the walk by going super early on your walk or going super late, trying to avoid the traffic of the neighborhood or the apartment complex. That's not training your dog. And most approaches of dog training for reactive dogs are just jumping to symptom management. They're going to skip the foundation of training. So, for example, you know, I've trained a dog. It was a mixed breed dog, deemed unfixable by other trainers. They had been through multiple trainers. And, you know, this dog just got terribly frustrated when it was seeing other dogs, right? Or other people, right? Terribly frustrated, highly reactive, making a lot of noise, getting very aroused. So before we get into the actual framework of how we're going to handle this, we need to talk about what's actually happening in your dog's brain when they're losing it. Because most people are just missing this completely. They don't really understand what's actually happening in the dog's brain. So there's three main things that are happening in the dog's brain. You got to figure out what is actually going on. One, aggression. Two, pure reactivity. Three, frustration. They're not the same. And if you misdiagnose this, this could be why your training is having some problems. Aggression, your dog is potentially wanting to harm another dog or a person. You can resolve it the same way we're going to talk about today, but our discussion today is mainly focused around reactivity and frustration. But aggression, if your dog gets to that other dog or if your dog gets to that person, it's most likely going to cause some type of harm to them. Reactivity is overreaction to a stimulus. It could be based out of fear, it could be based out of over-stimulation. It could be based out of lack of exposure. Frustration is when your dog, you know, is reacting to something or you know, trying to get to something. They don't know how to handle their emotions, and they're blocked from something they want. That could be via the leash, that could be via a fence or a door, right? They're blocked from something that they want, and so they get explosive toward anything close to them. They try to grab the leash with their mouth, they bite through leashes, they try to grab the closest thing to them that could be your leg, right? So whatever is holding them back from whatever they're becoming reactive to, they turn, they get frustrated, they respond to the closest thing to them. And and uh if you have a frustrated dog, if you treat a frustrated dog like an aggressive dog, you're not treating the same thing. At the end of the day, the foundation is the same, and you know, you're gonna progress from there. But a progress a frustrated dog needs to be handled a little bit differently than a pure aggression dog. In both cases, and the same thing with a reactive dog, you need rules, boundaries, expectations. So think about what your dog is dealing with in particular. Is your dog trying to actually cause harm to something? Is your dog just overreacting to something? That would be your reactive dog. Is your dog getting frustrated? It's trying to get to something, doesn't know how to handle its emotions, and is just becoming reactive because it's frustrated. Where does your dog fall at in the spectrum? Now that we know that we're what we're dealing with, let's talk about one of the most popular approaches to fixing this, why it works sometimes, and why sometimes it falls apart. And this is distance treating, right? Throld work. And trust me, threshold work does have its place in training, but it has to be done the right way. Most places, whenever you're doing threshold work, or if you're talking to most trainers, they want you to do threshold work forever, right? How are you going to progress through this? Now, threshold work is basically where you are rewarding your dog for not reacting. You're rewarding your dog for not becoming frustrated, you're rewarding your dog for not becoming aggressive. And in some cases, and the worst cases, your trainer will tell you to reward your dog as it's looking at another dog. I've seen this multiple times myself. Someone's working with a trainer, they got a dog, the dog is staring at other dogs, and the trainer tells a person to feed their dog for basically staring at the other dog. Not good to go. You got to think about this, right? Uh feeding your dog when they're redlining, whether they're staring at another dog or becoming frustrated or becoming reactive. That's basically rewarding your dog for becoming hyper-vigilant. It's not changing the dog's emotional state. It's not changing the way that the dog interprets the world around them. That's not changing the dog on how to make good decisions, right? So, like I said, distance treating, it does have a role, but it's not your complete plan. So let's go ahead and talk about what our plan looks like starting from the ground up. Four simple steps. Step number one, that's going to be based on relationship and communication. At the very basic step of what we're doing, we're trying to enhance the relationship with our dog. We're trying to help the dog understand how to communicate with us, how we are going to communicate with them. And that means we have to be able to tell the dog when they're doing something that we like them doing, that they're correct in doing, and letting the dog know when they're doing something wrong. So the easiest way to do this is to number one, detox your dog. How are you going to detox your dog? That's going to be avoiding your triggers. And we're not going to avoid the triggers forever, but we do need to avoid them for a period of time so that our dog's nervous system can decompress and really function on what we're trying to achieve. Which the first thing we're trying to achieve is eye contact and engagement. And with that comes enhanced relationship. So detoxing means avoiding triggers, right? Don't take your dog on a walk where you know they're going to become reactive. Don't take your dog into a situation where you know they're going to become frustrated, right? Focus your day on eye contact and engagement sessions. So if you like taking two walks a day with your dog, instead of going on your normal walk routes where your dog becomes reactive and frustrated, take your dog to a calm area. This could be your yard. This could be an area in your apartment complex where there's not a lot going on. This could even be in your house. Take your dog's food and or some high value rewards, put it in a bait bag, and when your dog looks at you, say good and reward them. Now, with that being said, I don't want you to beg your dog to look at you. I want you to wait for your dog to make the decision to look at you. So let's just say you're doing this in your living room. I just want you standing there with your dog on a leash, stand there, don't do anything. When your dog glances at you for a half second, a split second, say good, reward your dog. When that's done, take a couple steps to the left, take a couple steps to the right, just to change up the context very slightly and wait again. When your dog looks at you again, even for a split second, say good and reward. And I want you to repeat this. You can take a 20-minute walk and do this instead of walking. This is great mental exercise for your dog. Now, when you're doing this, one way to enhance the efficiency of what you're doing is going to be hand feeding your dog's meals during these sessions. So instead of feeding your dog out of a bowl, you're going to feed them out of your hand in this eye contact session twice a day at least. You can do more sessions per day if you have more time. But what you're looking for is you start the session, whether it's in your house, in your yard, or in a low-key area of the community, like your apartment complex, when you start your session, your dog is not really looking around. Your dog is starting to really dial in and pay very close attention to you. Now, when you say the word good, you're letting your dog know, hey, this is doing the right thing. Here's a reward. Keep doing that. Your dog will start to learn that context through this session that I just described to you. But if you want to enhance the way that your dog looks at you, enhance their arousal, enhance their excitement, you can say yes instead of good. And when you say yes, you're going to back up a couple steps and allow your dog to come to your hand with a food reward in it and take that food reward, holding your hand at about your dog's shoulder level. Now I have a bunch of videos on YouTube that show you how to do this. You can just look up eye contact canine revolution or how to get your dog to focus on you, Canine Revolution, on YouTube, and I'll show you this in an actual training session, but that's basically how you're going to do that. Now, if your dog is going through this process and then they do something that you don't like them doing, let's say they come up and they jump, or let's say they come up and start pawing you, demanding attention. In that case, you're going to say no and take a step back and put the food behind your back and basically turn your body away from your dog. What you're doing through this process is communicating to your dog that what they just did is not something that they should continue to do. It's breaking one of your rules, boundaries, expectations. And if you can do this, what will happen is that over time your dog learns that the word no means they did something that they shouldn't be doing. And this will set you up later for when you start doing actual accountability with a leash or remote collar. It'll help you in those specific situations because you've laid out this foundation. So the foundation is developing this eye contact, this engagement, this relationship, and developing your communication, which is going to be the words yes, good, and no. You don't really need to make it more complicated than that. Once you can start going to your sessions and you notice that your dog is locked onto you with eye contact and it's very difficult to get them to look away from you, you're ready to proceed. The next step is going to be giving them structure, a set of known behaviors to fall back on when the world around you gets really loud. So the second step, obedience as a mental framework and obedience as not commands. I don't want you to think of obedience as commands. And I don't want you to think that obedience is actually overcoming the behavior. Obedience is just a mindset. It just gives your dog something to default to when their arousal spikes, when they get frustrated. We want them to have alternative behaviors. Because if my dog gets reactive and frustrated and starts barking or whining or going crazy at another dog or a person, they don't know what to do. So now that we've got a relationship, our eye contact, our engagement, and our communication in place, now it's time to start teaching them alternative behaviors. So what I like to do is I like teaching heal, which is walking next to me on my left side, sit, which is obviously just sitting down, down, laying all the way down the ground, stay command, which is staying down or staying sitting or staying standing, standing, whatever position you choose for a period of time until you teach tell them that it's okay to release from that. I like teaching a come command, which is coming to me when asked. And then I like teaching a place command, which is going to a designated area and performing an automatic downstay on that. Of course, a part of this process is going to be desensitizing opposition reflex, which is teaching your dog how to follow the leash versus fight against it. A lot of frustrated dogs, when they feel leash tension, that's a signal to get more aroused, more reactive, more frustrated, more aggressive, especially the dogs that like to turn and grab the closest thing to them. So we need to desensitize opposition reflex so that our dog understands how to move with the leash versus fight against it. So I'm not going to go into detail on how to do these things. I have a bunch of YouTube videos that explain how to do this. You can just type in canine revolution dog training on YouTube to see footage on how to do these things. But essentially, you're going to do a lure reward method where you're luring your dog into all these behaviors. Once the lure is very easy, then you're going to start putting the verbal Q on top of the behavior. So for sitting, for example, you would say sit and then you would do the lure for the sit. Then once your dog sits, you say good, you reward. As time goes on, you change up your reward schedule from a continuous reward schedule where you are rewarding every single repetition to a random reward schedule where you are randomly rewarding them for doing the right thing. And then you're going to continue that progression, right? And make all these behaviors extremely reliable from the dog. And because you've already done the relationship, the eye contact, the engagement, the communication, your dog wants to learn, your dog wants to train. Again, during this time, don't focus on your long walks. Take your daily walk time each day and do the training session, not your walking. We really need to lock in this obedience. So once you've done the obedience, your dog now has a framework to operate inside of. Your dog now has alternative behaviors to work with. A dog with no obedience has no options and high arousal. Obedience also builds confidence, not just compliance. Your dog learns to gain confidence, they know how to handle different situations. It also gives you time and ways to help your dog during situations where a trigger might potentially show up. So, with that being said, now that we've got a relationship, now that we've got language, now that we've got obedience behaviors to fall back on, now it's time to put real accountability in place, both close and at a distance. So accountability is going to be the third step. And we're going to get to the part where we have an invisible leash on our dog. If you're not in an area where you can have an invisible leash, I know we have a lot of listeners that are in other countries, you're not able to use an invisible leash and e-collar, that's okay. Stick with your leash. If you're working with a trainer who's trying to prematurely put an e-collar on your dog, you need to run away. If you haven't gone through relationship building, eye contact, engagement, communication, and obedience with a lure reward method or a free shaping method first and solidified all of that, you're not ready to start an e-collar. And for us and our canine revolution dog training training programs, especially our flagship training program, which is our six-week boarding train, we're not starting e-collar work for probably 10 to 14 days with a dog. And that's us working with the dog throughout the day. You don't have uh the time that a trainer has to work with your dog in most cases. You get two sessions per day uh and most of the time. So it's gonna take you longer than 10 or 14 days to get to an e-collar, and that's totally fine. Now, the first step to accountability is just a tug and release on the leash with whatever collar you're using. Could be a fursaver training collar, which is my preference, could be a prong collar, could be a martingale, doesn't matter. If your dog is uh if you ask your dog to do an obedience command, which is how you're gonna teach it to your dog, you're gonna ask them to do obedience. Your dog may or may not do that obedience command, even though you've gone through the whole progression on teaching obedience. That's fine. As soon as your dog doesn't do what you've asked them to do and they know what you've asked them, then you say no, you give a quick tug and release on the leash. Your dog does what they're supposed to do, you say good and reward. Once you accomplish that with the leash, then you're gonna move to your e-collar conditioning. Now I've done the complete tutorial for e-collar conditioning on YouTube that takes you through the whole process in about 20 minutes. You can look up e-collar for beginners canine revolution on YouTube and find that video. But what you're basically gonna do is first figure out what level that your dog can feel. You're not looking for a level to where they react crazy to. All you're looking for is just a slight uh sensation that your dog shows that they feel that. And the way they show that is generally gonna be by looking to the ground, looking to the side, you know, looking confused, tilting their head. That's because they don't understand the sensation, but they do feel it. What you're gonna do next is then pair that sensation with your obedience commands. You're gonna start with the come command, right? You're gonna say, come after you bump the collar very easily. You just bump it, come, you do that enough times, your dog learns that that sensation of the collar means to come to you. And you're gonna repeat that process for every single obedience command that we've already been through. And what this does over time, and this is gonna take a couple sessions, but what this does is it teaches your dog that this sensation equals whatever behavior that you've asked them to do. It's just a communication tool, it's your invisible leash. Now, once you've gone through that conditioning process, then you're gonna go into your application process. Your accountability sequence is gonna be you say no if your dog does something wrong or something they're not supposed to do, or they didn't listen to what you asked them, you say no, you give a bump on the remote collar, and then you give a quick tug and release on the leash. Your dog is already familiar with the tug and release on the leash, so by saying no, pause, bump on the collar, pause, tug on the leash, you're basically creating a sequence to where that remote collar sensation, that bump on the remote collar, equals the leash. But you have to do it enough times, you have to do it consistently and repetitiously. Once you see your dog respond to the bump on the collar appropriately by doing the right thing or what they're supposed to be doing, then you don't need to do that sequence anymore. You can just say no and bump on the collar, and then you're ready to proceed. Because now the dog has a language, they have a structure, they have a clear line of communication, even at a distance. So now it's time to progress. Now it's time to put it to work. So the next thing we're gonna focus on, the fourth step, is structured exposure over time. This is not necessarily socialization, this is controlled, deliberate exposure to teach our dog neutrality. And don't forget the number one rule at Canine Revolution Dog Training. Whatever your dog practices is what they will continue to do. So you don't want to, you know, sometimes be inconsistent with this. You want to be very consistent with what you're trying to do with your dog. This is where your threshold work actually matters. This is where it really uh is gonna make a big difference, right? Remember, we talked about that distance treating at the beginning of our conversation today. Well, now it's time for us to do it, but a little bit differently in a better way for us and our dogs. So, what you do is you start taking your normal walks. You start going out to places again. You start taking your dog out into different areas that you want to take them to. And if there's a trigger, right, you're gonna work on your threshold to that trigger. The threshold threshold is distance to distraction. So if you can get 20 feet from that trigger and your dog is able to maintain eye contact, can listen to you very clearly, you know, maybe sometimes you need to give an e-collar correction uh because they are not doing what they're supposed to be doing, or maybe a leash correction, you know, because they're not doing what they're supposed to be doing. You do that, they respond appropriately. You are on a random reward schedule, that's exactly what you should be doing. Now, if you can master all of that at your threshold, then it's time to start reducing your threshold, right? So if you're 30 or if you're 20 feet from a trigger and your dog can be, you know, calm, confident, relaxed, listen clearly, still get good eye, still get give good eye contact, still do obedience, respond properly, you're good to go, right? Now, once you reduce that threshold, you go from 20 feet to 15 feet. If your dog starts to get aroused or excitable, you still want to provide an effective correction. If your dog breaks a rule boundary or expectation, right? But then you want to come back out to your 20-foot threshold, work on your eye contact, your obedience, your communication there, and then again work to reduce your threshold. So, what does progress look like at this stage? You're working on your thresholds, you're doing your daily routines, you're doing your walks and all that kind of stuff. Progress is your dog sees the trigger, your dog doesn't fixate, your dog doesn't overreact, and your dog volunteers to check in with you. And that's just going to take time and consistency and sticking to the protocol. You stick to the protocol, you get the results. If you're inconsistent with the protocol, it's going to take longer to get the results. And when that choice finally happens, when your dog's brain actually flips and your dog can think clearly, it's it's amazing, right? It's a game changer. And your life will be so much easier, your dog's life will be so much easier, you will get calm, confident, and relaxed as well. There's some other things you can do, right? If you have a friend, let's say your dog is reactive to dogs and you have a friend who has a dog, you can ask them to work with you at times to help you reduce your thresholds, right? Maybe they're 15 feet away from you walking and you're walking with a dog, you're holding your dog to heel position. If your dog tries to go out of heel position, you say no, bump on your collar, they come right back, boom, good to go, right? If you're in a situation where a trigger just shows up out of nowhere, right, you're gauging your dog's response. Your dog, you're gonna notice your dog calculating their options as you go through this, right? But what you want to see is if they're looking at the distraction, you're looking for your dog on their own to make the decision to calm themselves down and pay attention to you. Or maybe if they're up walking around, maybe they choose to come over to you, lay down, and pay attention to you. Or maybe they choose to put themselves in a heel position, right? All this means that self-regulation has been achieved. Your dog is not suppressed, your dog is not bribed, your dog has chosen structure, your dog has chosen to make these decisions on their own. What if that doesn't happen, though? What if your dog does react? You have a surprise situation, surprise scenario, the trigger walks in, it's closer to you than your threshold is at the time, and your dog has a reaction. You have communication, you have accountability in place. So go ahead and hold your dog accountable for breaking the rules boundaries expectation. Your dog reacts, gets too excited, over aroused, hyperfocuses, staring at the distraction, whining, making noise, whatever. No correction, right? That could be an e-collar correction, that could be a leash correction depending on where you are and what you're doing at the time. If that correction doesn't work, you have to increase the level of your correction in order to achieve an effective correction. And you might have to repeat that process multiple times until a effective correction is achieved. What is an effective correction? An effective correction is a correction that stops the bad behavior or the undesired behavior or the unhealthy behavior. Because when your dog is overreacting at something or getting frustrated, that's not healthy for them either. Not mentally, not physically, right? So it's better for you to implement structure, implement accountability, have your dog do what they're supposed to be doing, right? Help your dog regulate themselves. Every time they have a reaction, and you help them regulate by giving them an effective correction, and then they calm down. And then they come and lay down next to you or give you eye contact. Again, you're not suppressing them, right? You're not bribing them. You're helping them regulate, right? And the more you do that, the more consistent you are, the less and less these outbursts of behavior will happen, and the more your dog learns to pay attention to you and to remain calm, confident, and relaxed. So just keep in mind aggression, reactivity, frustration, they are not the same thing. You can use the same process to work on all of them, but figure out where your dog falls at first. Remember that distance treating can manage your dog at times, but it doesn't build. It can't be the whole plan. It's a part of the plan. Remember the framework, relationship, eye contact, engagement, communication. Then move to obedience, then move to accountability with a leash and remote collar conditioning, which is your invisible leash. Then you're going to move into structured exposure. You're going to follow that order every single time. And every step earns the next step. If you guys need help with this, you can reach out to us. We have a bunch of links in the description down below. Canon Revolution Dog Training.com. We have a six-step starter guide. It's free. You can download it in the link in the description down below. If you want to do a one-on-one coaching session with me, you can book that directly via the link in the description below. There are limited availability for those one-on-one sessions. Whether you're a dog owner, whether you're a dog trainer, whether you're a dog lover, doesn't really matter. I can meet with you and talk about whatever you want. You can book that directly in the link below. Don't forget, if you need a board and train, we can help with you with your with your dog no matter where you're at. We've trained dogs from all over the United States. If you want to support, you can get the ultimate lease training manual. That's on Amazon. It's five steps to a well-behaved dog that's supporting you, that's supporting your dog, that's supporting the podcast. We also have the I Love Dogs coloring book. You can check that out in the link in the description below. We have other affiliates that we work with. We only work with people that are going to be beneficial for you and your dog. Raw food, dog supplements, the best dog toys, supplements for yourself. And last but not least, if you found value from this conversation, drop us a comment in the comments of wherever you're listening and leave us a review on your favorite podcast platform. I can't thank you enough for being here. I always enjoy your feedback. Let me know what you guys need me to talk about next. And until next time, this is Pac Talk Podcast out.
