Nepal's Collapse

In this update, Claudia Koestler shares her experiences in Kathmandu amidst ongoing riots and political turmoil. Claudia describes the surreal atmosphere, the collapse of the government, and the resulting safety concerns for both locals and foreign visitors. She highlights the grassroots efforts of citizens to maintain order in the absence of police and reflects on the broader implications of the crisis.

Here are some highlights that Claudia covers:

• The atmosphere in Kathmandu is surreal amidst the chaos.
• Protesters view the situation as a war, not just a crisis.
• The government's collapse has left travelers in a precarious position.
• The absence of police is met with relief by some locals.
• Convicted criminals are now free due to the police's disintegration.
• Citizens are forming watch groups for self-defense.
• Foreign visitors face unique safety concerns during unrest.
• The Hilton's destruction symbolizes political retribution.
• Personal safety is a constant concern in volatile situations.
• Vigilance is essential for navigating such crises.

Please don't forget to like, subscribe, and share this episode and podcast with like-minded people who care about the on-going crisis in Nepal and other hotspots 'Over Here, Over There'. Thank you!

Chapters

• 0:00 Intro
• 0:04 A Morning in Kathmandu: Setting the Scene
• 2:38 The Unfolding Crisis: Riots and Protests
• 5:11 The Impact of Government Collapse
• 5:45 Outro

Transcript

Claudia Koestler (00:04.874)

Morning from Kathmandu, Nepal and Claudia from over here over there. And judging by the background you see, you might think, ‘What a calm and serene morning I must have’. But let me tell you that there is a distinct smell of burned rubber in the air. You can still see a little bit of the grey fog behind me, and the fact that there are no crowds out here on Durbar Square apart from the doves.

It's down to the fact that there was a curfew going on. All the shops are closed. We are all supposed to stay indoors. That is due to the riots and violent protests that have been going on in this country. Let me tell you how it impacts me as a traveller from overseas, from Europe, when I'm back in the hotel. Thank you. Cheers. Bye.

Claudia Koestler (01:17.742)

Well. You might wonder what it actually feels like to be over here with all those ongoings. Let me tell you quite frankly, it is rather bizarre and strange, and yet it feels quite surreal. Yesterday was a day and a night you could grip the adrenaline from the air itself. It was thick with tension; there was heat, smoke, and that fragile anticipation. I could hear chants and rants and military units, trucks rumbling, and here and there I heard the sudden crack of a bullet. I watched columns of thick smoke menacingly coming from nearby roads and buildings, and those people that I've actually met and spoken to didn't call it a crisis; they called it a war. And days that will change the course of history in this country. Well, as I sit here, this day actually has brought a relative calm, but with a little bit of a nervous edge, I'd say. Now, with the government's collapse, the airport is shut. So, for me, there is no way out. And also, there is an indefinite curfew. Also, the police are gone, utterly disintegrated. And their absence is greeted here not with consternation, but actually with relief. For years, they have been regarded as instruments of injustice and also corruption as a force that undermined any notion of fairness.

Claudia Koestler (03:01.42)

The protesters that I've spoken to today seem almost jubilant at their demise. What's replaced them is the military. And the military has swept in to fill the vacuum. But the police weren't just street patrols. They also ran the prisons. And here it gets a little bit tricky because when their hierarchy collapsed, the doors of the prisons swung open too. So, actually, here, convicted criminals are now on the loose in the city. And that's adding another danger to an already volatile situation. So what do the protesters do? I'd say grassroots defence. Young and old have hastily organized their own watch groups, and they are armed and vigilant, and they are doing what they can to police their own neighbourhoods. Still, yeah, I agree. It's not a circumstance to take lightly. So many people here are actually armed, and the lines between safety and threat are

So yeah, for me as a foreign visitor to this country, the concern is, am I safe? There is no manual for days like this. There is no ready-made advice. Between the blinds and the bullet shots, between TikTok and rumour, what do I do? All I can do is actually keep calm and wait for news. Not just about Nepal's future but my own next steps.

On a lighter yet sobering note, I can't help but reflect on my sheer luck, because my hotel here feels like a sanctuary. The Hilton, on the other hand, internationally renowned as it is, has been burned to ashes here in Kathmandu, and its foreign guests were whisked away by helicopter in the middle of the frenzy. Why the Hilton, you might ask?

Claudia Koestler (05:04.288)

It has ties to the former prime minister's family, and that made it a symbol of the corrupt elite. So the verdict of the protesters was punishment by fire, and the residents were caught in a drama of political retribution. But anyway, even though I am safe here at the moment, this place, this moment demands every ounce of nerve and reflex. And so I wait, reporting from over here to you over there while also learning the true meaning of vigilance. Thank you for listening, and I'll keep you updated. And hey, while we are on it, have you liked and subscribed? Please do support us. Okay, thank you. Hear you on the next one. Bye.