Season 7, Episode 13 - Picking Gala and Honeycrisp

Shan, Kari, and Greg highlight harvest concerns such as maturity and pressure, rots, and late-season insect pressures.

Host: Don Seifrit
Speakers: Kari Peter, Shan Kumar, Greg Krawczyk

Photo Credit: D. Seifrit and D. Weber, PSU

Music Credit: “The Raven and the Swan” by Josh Woodward is licensed under a Attribution 3.0 United States License. Courtesy of FreeMusicArchive.org

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Flight Seasonalities of Main Fruit Pests During the Growing Season

Transcript

Welcome And Today’s Lineup

SPEAKER_02 0:07

Alright, welcome back once again, everybody. I'm Don Seafer. It's the Dr. Tree Fruit and Dawn Podcast. It is Thursday, August 13th, 2026. I'm here with Dr. Carrie Peter. Say hi, Carrie.

SPEAKER_03 0:18

Hi there.

unknown 0:19

Dr.

SPEAKER_02 0:19

Greg Crotrek. Say hi, Greg. Hello, everyone. And the man who will be starting us off today, Dr. Sean Kumar. Say hi, Sean.

SPEAKER_01 0:27

Hello, everyone.

SPEAKER_02 0:28

And since you are up first, I'll let you just get rolling right into it.

Harvest Timing By Starch Index

SPEAKER_01 0:32

Yeah. Thanks, Don. Yeah, we are right in the thick of harvests. Uh, and I just wanted to give you an update about uh how things are shaping up as we get to harvest them. And so we started our uh Don Daniel and I started our ripening maturity updates uh about two weeks ago. And so we started with wildfire gala and premiere honeycrisp, and we are mostly done with harvesting both those varieties. With premieres, if you have not yet harvested, you should be harvesting them. They are overripe according to our test that we did uh this Monday, uh, where they were at a starch of 6.6 out of eight. And so now we are slowly moving into uh gala harvest season, and so the backeye gala that we harvested uh on Monday this week came in at a starch of about 2.7 in Adams County, and so that is right about the time that you would start thinking about harvesting. I know a few other orchards said that they were still at one, uh, and so the this is when you start to think about harvesting. You don't want your galas to go, bacchae gala, especially to go well much beyond uh a starch index of three, especially if you're looking at any type of uh long-term storage with your galas, uh, because you run into the issue of uh storage disorders happening internal browning and other issues that happen with long-term storage of gala, bacchae gala if you don't harvest it uh early enough. And so ideally, you want to harvest it at a starch of three. So this is a time to keep checking because things can change uh quite quickly. And I did want to mention that uh if your galas are at 60% color, for example, and they're they are at a starch of two to three, then it's better to harvest them at that point rather than wait for the color to improve to greater than 70%, for example, and have the starch move ahead of what you want to harvest it at because of the fact that they have issues with long-term storage like internal browning. And so it's important for especially uh galas and honey crisp that they be harvested at the at the right time uh that they're supposed to. For galas, that is mostly we're looking at a starch index of uh three. And so it was interesting to note that we had, I mean, we had a very rainy week last week, as all of you know. We had two uh 2.77 inches according to the Freck uh weather station, and some people had closer to three inches, three and a half inches of rain. So it was interesting to note that the gala from last week to this week, uh, even with all the rain, it has moved a little bit in size, but not so much as compared to the honey crisp. The honey crisp really pushed this past week, so it was interesting interesting to see that varietal difference in terms of size increase because of the rain, and the gala still seemed to hold its own, it still seems to maintain its firmness. Its firmness is quite high at 25 pounds. Uh, would have reduced a little bit by now because it's been four days since we did the testing. And the honey crisp has greatly increased in size, and you would you would have noticed that if you had left your premieres without harvesting and with all the rain, you would have definitely seen cracking in some of the premieres, which is why last week we were recommending that you finish harvesting last week itself. And so, especially honey crisp and honey crisp-related strains, uh, you have a risk when you run into uh them getting uh close to being ripe that they can split with this excessive rain, and so that is something to keep in mind. And galas do that as well, uh, when as as and when they get riper, so it's important to keep that in mind and look at the weather ahead uh when you when you're planning on harvesting. And the honey crisp in uh Adams County again is at a starch index of 2.2, good size. Uh, and so we still have about a week, a week, week and a half, maybe for uh uh honey crisp to be serious about honeycrisp harvests, and so I think Gala is right now your harvesting, and then you'll move into Honey Crisp shortly, uh, sometime in the next week or two, depending on how the weather is going. And so with Burks, based on the data that uh Dawn collected, we are still at a starch index of one as of Monday this week for both Gala and Honey Crisp. So it seems like uh they are a little bit behind, maybe uh uh uh keep tracking it and then see if maybe they move sometime next week or later next week. I think might be a good time to harvest the gala, and then following that in in a few weeks, the honeycrisp as well. So, in general, they seem to be a little behind on the starch index as compared to uh Addams County. And uh overall, uh overall, we're seeing that the gala has uh gala had 12 bricks, uh, or Bacay Gala had about 11 bricks that we checked in Adams County, so we're still waiting a little bit on the bricks, and the firm it's firmness held strong still, and for both the gala and the honey crisp, so that's good. And so we're still waiting for maybe a little bit of sugar, uh, a little bit movement on the storch index before you uh start uh a serious harvest of uh gala followed by honey crisp. So uh the other thing I wanted to mention was this year we have sort of a moderate color development here. It's not uh I don't think it's as good as what we had last year, but it's also not as bad as what we had a few years ago. Uh, just a general disclaimer that uh waiting for color development uh uh in order to harvest your crop is especially if you're storing it for longer periods of time, it is a losing game, meaning that uh you want to try to do what you can to improve color, but not wait for color to develop before you harvest because the later you wait to harvest, uh you're store you're compromising on your storage life.

Rain Effects Size Cracking Storage

SPEAKER_01 6:42

Now, moving track from harvest, this is also the time, if you have not already, to uh take samples for soil and leaf testing. Uh we have terminal growth in most of

Soil Leaf Tests And Postharvest Urea

SPEAKER_01 6:56

our varieties, and uh, I mean we are done with the season, and so uh in blocks we've had uh close to a full crop load, and you want to boost nitrogen a bit, you can do a post-harvest spray two to three weeks after harvest of about three to five percent urea, which would be good for the tree. So you can do that, take your soil test, take your leaf test samples, and then uh uh for especially for varieties that have a low threshold for mistakes like honey crisp, you want to be doing that leaf testing at least once every other year, or in rotation every two or three years, uh, in order to get accurate data on what your nitrogen potassium levels are. So, uh, as in relation to calcium, is you want to maintain a much higher ratio of uh nitrogen and potassium to calcium, and so doing a leaf test will give you the most accurate data for that. And uh just a quick revision on uh taking samples. Uh, some of you have reps coming in and taking those samples for you, some of you take those samples yourself. So, usually you're looking at sampling leaves from new growth, and so from the new growth that we had this year, go to the middle of that and take about five leaves uh from that middle region of the new growth, uh, five leaves from ten trees or ten leaves from five trees spread out around the orchard to get a good sample for your leaf analysis. And uh yep, and you can send that to the ag analytical laboratory at Penn State or you can send that to a lab that is close by where you are. It's important to note that we have provided updated uh recommendations specifically for HoneyCrisp, both on the soil and the leaf test. Uh uh, and these updates have been made to the uh ag analytical laboratory system as well. So if you're working with another provider of soil and leaf testing, uh please do let them know to change their recommendations, especially for HoneyCrisp, uh, both the soil and leaf test so that they are updated. Uh, all these updates are also provided in the Penn State uh tree fruit guide. Uh, but you can also look at the Penn State Act Analytical Laboratory website as well to get some information about that. But I would say that would that would be for me. Happy harvesting.

SPEAKER_02 9:17

Thanks, Sean. That was a good update. Uh Dr. Peter, you're up next.

Tree Assistance Program Deadline Update

SPEAKER_03 9:22

Okay, so um, so two things I want to talk about. Um, the first, I just want to mention uh an updated uh criteria for the tree assistance program that the Farm Service Agency has. I've written about this, I've talked about this. This tree assistance program, or TAP for short, is for folks who lose trees, bushes, or vines, so perennial crops due to some natural disaster disease that is beyond the grower's control and um in excess of normal mortality. So, one thing to note is that you before you had to reach this 15% tree loss in a site, they've removed that. So no longer do you need to you do you need to meet a certain percent criteria of loss. Now it's just in excess of normal mortality. Um, also note that uh for this particular calendar year, there are deadlines that you have to adhere to. Um it's usually typically within uh I'm trying to remember um as far as um oh gosh. I I I just sent out I just forwarded this out to YGA and I'm I'm already forgetting it. I remembered one part of it as far as it's the 15% tree loss was removed. Okay. As far as when uh it's when you have to submit this, um, the claim deadline for 2026 losses, producers who did not meet the 15 loss requirement are now eligible, um, must submit an application for payment no later than October 7th, 2026, or 90 days from the date of the disaster event or when the loss is apparent. Uh, so this is just something to for you to be aware of of the deadline date. Uh in many of these cases, FSA may request you to have a letter from a quote unquote expert to justify your claim that this was beyond your control and there was nothing you can do. I am that person who can write that letter. I've written letters for numerous growers. I'm writing one right now for a grower. Um, but basically it's just stating that this was an issue that was beyond your control and that there was nothing that you could have done to mitigate it. So that's that's about it. Um, but so just be note take note of that, especially for folks who really struggled with Fire Blade this year. Uh, this was a really tough year for Fire Blade. So this is something you could take advantage of.

Final Fungicide Timing Before Harvest

SPEAKER_03 11:57

The other thing I want to mention is our gentle, gentle reminder about your last sprays before harvest and to not stretch your pre-harvest sprays too much. Um, in light of the weather we've had recently, um, it's been very rainy the last couple weeks. I know it's been feast or famine with the amount of rainfall that has fallen. Some people have had like an inch, other people have had nine inches. Um, but regardless, we're getting frequent rain events, frequent wedding events. So there is a high probability that whatever fungicide that you may have sprayed two weeks ago has been washed off if you haven't um put anything on your trees since. Uh, fruit can be especially vulnerable during this time because it is still quite warm out there. It's pretty humid. We are getting these pop-up thunderstorms because of how warm it is. Um, so this is something uh you need to be mindful of of these last sprays for a couple reasons. One, fruit rots, number one, uh many fruit rots have a latent period, so you do not see that rot at the time of harvest. You only know it's there when you take your fruit out of storage after a period of time. Uh, we do know through our research that pretty much rot spores are around all season long, and all they need are are the right environmental conditions for that infection to occur. And we do see those right environmental conditions right now around harvest. Um, so um the other issue is storage scab. So we think of apple scab as an early season disease, but if it wasn't controlled too well early in the season, or that maybe some breakthrough disease in the orchard that you may not be aware of. Storage scab occurs when you've got really excessive wetting around harvest and the fruit go into storage, and then you see these little tiny lesions that come that manifest while the fruit are in storage. So you get another round of scab infection, late season scab infection, as a result of these late season wetting events. And it's most problematic during periods where we have excessive wetting during the harvest time and during this time of year when fungicides are getting washed off or fungicides are not being reapplied in time. So there's incentive to make sure you have good fungicides on your fruit before harvest. Your packers will appreciate you, especially since this is a tricky year with the amount of fruit that we have available. So we really want things to be in the best possible shape. And you growers or packers will be very appreciative of this. So, what can you use? Well, the four big ones that I always advocate, I we have a fourth one, I should say, that I always advocate. Marivon, lunisation. Marivon in particular has a post-harvest disease control where it controls blue mold and gray mold. And I'll touch on blue mold in a minute. Luna sensation, similar frac groups of marivon, it's still a good product. Flynnextra is just frac 11. Excellent. And then now you have Cabrio, which is Frac 11. That's the Paraclostrobe, and that's a Marivon. So you have four good Frac 11 fungicides that will help keep things in check, especially if you do not want to have captan as one of your last sprays. For organic options, uh, options are limited, uh, especially if you're thinking about long-term storage. Sulfur, I know this isn't people's favorites, but this is something that um that is still works. Uh, you have Oso, you've got the biologicals like Serenade and Double Nickel. I'm looking at other products, like as far as um softer products that are available out there that I haven't excessively tested yet, but we're doing it this year. So we'll see how they fare. Um there could be, I can add to this list of softer options for folks. So this won't be so problematic if your fruit aren't going to be stored for a really long period of time. But if they're gonna be pushed and sold very quickly after harvest, there's probably not much you have to worry about because major post-harvest issues like fruit rots and storage scab typically occur when fruit are in storage for like two to three months or more.

Blue Mold Patulin And Packhouse Risk

SPEAKER_03 16:11

So, uh, as far as circling back to blue mold, another incentive to make sure you have things tightened up on the fungicide front at harvest or close to near harvest is the issue with blue mold. Pretty much every pack house out there has blue mold in it. It is a fact of life. It's very difficult to completely sterilize the environment and get rid of blue mold spores in your cold storages and pack house facilities. The problem with blue mold is that it needs a natural opening, like a wound, or let's say possibly a rot, to enter and cause infection. And when you get infection, that blue mold infection is going to produce a mycotoxin called patulin, which is regulated. Um, it there's tight thresholds that processors must adhere to before making that apple lot into a processed apple product. So this is, I've seen this happen in the past of bins being rejected due to excessive uh exceeding the threshold, the patulin level threshold. This is occurring in your pack house, in your cold room. Um, and so you want to do everything in your power to limit that infection. And using a pre-harvest spray like Marivon or Luna Sensation, that is one step in the battle because those are, especially Marivon is specifically labeled for blue mold control. And I suspect lunisensation, flint extra cabrio are going to have the same level of control to fight off blue mold. Um, for packers that do that may want to use a post-specific post-harvest fungicide, you've got four Scholar, Pembotec, Academy, and Murtech. Um, I'd caution against Murtech because there's already high resistance to Murtech of the penicillin population out there. It's just the nature of frac group one. So if you do use Murtech, make sure you possibly mix it with another product. Uh, and so as far as other tidbits to remember during the harvest season and as you're harvesting to sort of limit issues.

Harvest Handling To Reduce Rot

SPEAKER_03 18:16

Um, number one, if you encounter rots, fruit rots in the orchards, and this would be probably I'd say problematic for honey crisp because it's so susceptible to bitter rot, drop the fruit to the ground to get it out of the tree. So you limit the spore, basically the spore dispersal within the tree. Um remember the more mature the fruit, the more susceptible it is to storage diseases. Bruised or wounded fruit are going to be susceptible as well. So be mindful of how you are harvesting. Um just um as a reminder of your bins themselves, uh soil and and plant debris can carry in pathogens into the pack house. So make sure that your bins are free of that, especially on the outside of it and on the inside of it for sure. Uh warm temperatures are going to encourage pathogens to grow. So when you are harvesting, if it if there is a way to keep your fruit cool or or decrease the temperature a bit, so keeping your bins in the shade, if that's possible, um, that's something else to think about as far as limiting fruit rots. And also um, what's in your control is how long your bins go from the orchard to the pack house. So if you can minimize that time. I know once it's at the pack house, it's out of your hands, but at least what's what's in your control is that delivery, uh, making that delivery as timely as possible. So um, those are the broad brushstrokes of the nuggets of wisdom I want people to be thinking about as they are harvesting or nearing harvest for um certain apples, apple varieties. Really all apple varieties for that matter. But I know we're at various stages of harvest.

SPEAKER_02 20:03

Okay. Good update, Harry. Thanks for the uh talk about uh everything and especially some of the blue mold talk with the with the Packers.

SPEAKER_03 20:12

Yeah, this is I need to just to emphasize it again. Um, when this has happened in the last couple years, people say this is the first time they're hearing it, and I've been talking about this since I started. So I will keep saying it and keep reminding you until I'm blue in the face. No pun intended there.

SPEAKER_02 20:32

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm pretty sure we highlighted this last year.

SPEAKER_03 20:35

Uh we highlight it every year, highlighted in the winter. Yeah. It'll stick eventually.

SPEAKER_02 20:43

Yeah, fingers crossed. All right. And last but not least, Greg.

Codling Moth And OFM Late Season

SPEAKER_00 22:00

Some of us have no crop, some of us have a very, very limited crop that we still hope to sell, that we still hope to be a marketable, have a marketable value. Um codling moth and oriental fruit moth. Those are the worms that actually you can see at harvest if you did not manage them during the season. Um codling moth is different than oriental fruit moth in a way that codling moth can develop only in fruit. There is really no alternative feeding site where codling moth can survive. Knowing this and understanding that we are right now at the end of the second generation flight of codling moth, basically starting the third generation flight. And again, this varies from location to location. Some people might still be in the second generation, third may or may not show up in some location. Uh if they are fruit and the number of fruit is limited in the orchard, you have to understand that codling moth will find the fruit that are still there and deposit the egg on the fruit, they will not deposit eggs somewhere else. What it means is that if you know that you have a codling moth population in the orchard, and you know that you have fruit in the orchard, and you know you want to harvest, uh, those fruit right now needs to be covered with the active residue, preventing larval feeding from now until basically for the cobbling moth, at least until mid to late September. For oriental fruit moth until mid to late October. And again, a lot of this what you need to do right now depends on what you see that you have in the orchard. Uh, assuming you had traps and you monitor coding moth and oriental fruit moth, you know right now if you need or you don't need to have this active residue present all the time. Uh, before we go, what can we use to provide this active residue? I want to talk a little bit about oriental fruit moth. Oriental fruit moth, in contrast to codling moth, actually can survive on growing shoots. They do great on fruit, and we're talking both stone and palm fruit, but if the fruit are not present or the number of fruit is lower, and so on, oriental fruit moth will do pretty well still in feeding inside the growing terminals. Oriental fruit moth also flies much longer than codling moth. Much longer means that when coddling moth is done by mid-September, late September, it used to be early September to mid-September, but now we have seen codling moth even in October. Oriental fruit moth will basically be active and mate and lay eggs on fruit until basically end of October. And again, we don't know the weather, and this is a big X factor here, but if the weather is right, uh Oriental fruit moth can lay eggs and the larva can enter the fruit basically until end of October, coding moth only until mid to end of September. So, what to do about it? Well, there's no new magic insecticide that can be used. We have basically insecticides from three different groups we have spinocens, which is delegate, and then we have diametes, which is altachore, exirel, verdeprin. Any one of those four products provides at least 14, sometimes even 21 days residual activity. So remember about it when you decide when you're gonna spray the last time. When something that will be harvested by end of September, maybe spraying at first week of September will be good enough application. Something that will be harvested in October might need to have a longer residual product or longer residual activity. Again, delegate, altacore, exirel, verdeprim, all of them will help you at least for two weeks, in many cases for 21 days. So it's gonna work. And you don't have to spray and worry about spraying you know the day before the harvest because they might be there. That's not the case. If you are organic or trying to stay organic, your only option is something that has coding more granulosis virus. Those are the products like SIDEX, MADEX, or Virosoft. With those products, the residual activity on the fruit will not last longer than seven days. And it's not that you can use higher rate and the activity residual will be stronger. Basically, within seven days, those those products are being basically disarmed by UV light. So rate doesn't make any difference. Within seven days, they will not work. Saying this, they also have a much shorter PHIs, but you know, this is something that can be used also in conventional orchard. If you know you're gonna harvest, you're running out of the PHI timing, using any one of those viruses can also work and you know will help. The situation is quite different with another pest that also becoming a problem at this time.

Stink Bug Traps And Spray Choices

SPEAKER_00 29:26

I'm talking about brown marmorated stinkback. And I know some of you will say, Hey, I don't have any stinkback, I did not see them, they are not there. Well, this is the time right now that they are starting moving from surrounding vegetation to orchards. They basically looking for the best food source, and orchards are generally much higher nutritional value for the stingbug, trying to prepare to overwinter than any ornamental trees in the forests or woods. Uh again, it's an old melody, but put the traps out so you don't have to try to find them on the tree, but you just check trap and you know that they are there, or you know that they are not there. The traps that are available right now and the lures that are available right now for brown marmorated stinkback are very effective. If your trap is not showing you that brown marmorated is in the orchard, it means it's not there. If they catching adults, maybe some names, it means they are there and something has to be done. Unfortunately, there is not really a soft option to control brown marmorated stingback. Your best option with the longest residual activity is anything that includes bifentrin, which is piretroids. We have a registration for two products, bifenture and brigade. Both of them have 14-day PHI, but they also have a very long residual. So if you know you need to control brown marmorated stink bag, your best options are either Bifenture or Brigade. You actually can use Bifentrin, the active ingredients, twice during the season. When we had a problem, a big-scale problem, and we know we had a stink box. Quite frequently, what growers did was they were applying the first application in the late August and then repeat the application in the late September. Remember, there is a 14-day PHI here. So you have to pay attention what you use and when, so you don't run into the harvest issue and Sean describe you know all the issues with the harvest from the hoard perspective, but from the pHI on insecticides, both biventrin-containing products have 14 days pHI. Danital, which is another pyrethroid, which is also effective, has seven days PHI. And warrior, which is probably the least expensive pyrethroid, this one has a 21-day pH. And they are also good products. If you don't want to go with the pyrethroids, and there is a good reason why not, probably some of you still remember a lot of talks being given that if you use pyrethroids that late in the season, you actually are increasing the number of eggs that European red mites are depositing for the overwintering, and then you're running in you potentially running into the mite problem. If you're gonna use neonicotenoids, a sale or belay your best uh best option, you have to go with the highest rates of both prod highest label rates for a sale. I think it's uh eight ounces. I don't remember right now for the belay. One thing about belay is that belay has both of them have the seven days phi, but uh 21 days on peaches. But I I think most of the peaches, if anyone had peaches, uh you know the harvest is really nearing going down. So those are the options for the commercial orchards, and again, put the traps out so you don't have to spray because Greg said so that my need spray. Just if you see them in the trap, you know you have a pressure. If you don't see them in the trap, you know you don't have to spray. It's that simple. Those traps are effective. Uh, if you are an organic grower, your most effective products are basically natural pyrethrum, which you can have in products like Azera or Pygyanic. There is also some efficacy in the product from marron venerate, and this will also help. But those natural, organically approved products have a very short residual. Uh we're talking less than a week and they will not work anymore. So, this is something to remember when you decide, you know, what you still need to spray and you don't need to want to spray. Again, I'm gonna stress one thing that with the lower number of fruit in the orchards, those fruit, those fruits are actually extra exponentially more attractive to insects that are looking for the fruit. And I have seen, I have been in situations that under low crop, we observed much higher percentage of fruit injured by insect. And it's not that the pressure from the insects was higher, it's simply because insects had less fruit that they use for the food or overwintering or whatever they need to. So remember about it. Um, another thing, and this is the last thing that you know, they're also leaf hoppers. And some growers I remember from the past complaining that they hate to harvest because leafhoppers are, you know, getting everywhere and so on. If you're gonna go with neonicotinoids to control stink back, you're gonna control leaf hoppers. If you just want to control only leaf hoppers, you can go with the lowest rate, lowest label rate of neonicotinoids, and they will control leafhoppers also. But those lowest rate, lowest rates will not control stinkback. Like for a sale, if you go eight or six ounces, it will control stink bug. If you go below, you will control perfectly leafhoppers, but you will not control stink bug. So that's really all I have. And again, this is something that really will stick for the rest of the season. I mean, if we have more updates like this, I probably will keep repeating this. But those are the pests that I think are the most important right now. Uh not fruit related, but if on peaches someone is looking for dealing with the peach tree border because, well, there were symptoms of injuries or something.

Peach Tree Borer Trunk Timing

SPEAKER_00 37:18

Uh, this is the time, it's actually too early right now, but beginning of September to mid-September is a good time to spray trunk to control the larvae, the eggs, the larvae that are actually being hatched from the eggs that are deposited by adults. They will be, you know, the later you go, the more higher percentage of the larvae will be able to kill. However, the later you go, some of the some of them might go deeper into the woods, and whatever you use, and right now you're really left only with pyurythroids for this application. Either you're gonna go with Lord's Band, but again, Lorsban is still legal, but not legal, it's it's a it's a complicated issue. But anyway, this is the time to control that, to control border, especially pitch tree border. If you're talking about dogwood border, similar situation, but dogwood border can also be controlled very nicely in the spring. So as a trunk application. So those are really the all all the updates I have.

Wrap Up And Final Thoughts

SPEAKER_00 38:29

Any questions or comments? Done.

SPEAKER_02 38:37

Had to unmute. Um, yeah, no, I think that was a really good update. I I'll say, you know, we've been seeing some coddling moth damage um in some of the places where I've been doing sampling for Sean just because there has still been some fruit in those blocks. Uh, even if folks have said, hey, um I'm not gonna, we're not gonna wind up picking these. Um, because, you know, I assume because they haven't been treating those, but I think uh it's one of those things that you've said that you know they're gonna show up, they're gonna be there, um, they're gonna complete those life cycles.

SPEAKER_00 39:12

Exactly. And and again, I mean, like for codling moths, it's really, you know, a matter of life or die if they don't put their eggs on the fruit. And this happened already during the first generation. I mean, we see in many orchards that we monitoring right now the flight of the second generation codling moth was much, much, much lower than the flight of the first generation. Because during the first generation, we basically observed individuals that survived from the 2025 season. The second generation flight are only individuals that survive that during the 2026, and in the orchards where there are no food for them, that was the best natural control for the coding moth you have. I know that that's not what growers want to, and I don't want it, but that's the reality. If you did not have fruit at all, the coding moth next year, you might not even have a codling moth next year, unless they will fly from somewhere else. Because basically, they will not survive if there are no fruit on the trip.

SPEAKER_02 40:33

There you go. Um, all right.

SPEAKER_03 40:36

Unfortunately, we can't say the same for disease.

unknown 40:39

Yeah.

SPEAKER_02 40:41

All right. No comment. No comment there. Um, if anyone doesn't have anything else, then I will try and get this edited and folks can listen to this. Sound good? Sounds great. All right, say goodbye, everybody.

SPEAKER_03 40:57

Goodbye, everybody.

SPEAKER_00 40:58

Goodbye, everybody.