Xu Xiake: The Trailblazing Explorer Who Redefined China’s Landscapes

Today, we’ll talk about the pioneering geographer Xu Xiake whose story chronicles his extraordinary 17th-century expeditions across China, where his detailed maps and observations greatly contributed to the country’s geographical knowledge while revealing many of its hidden natural wonders.

Transcript

Xu Xiake: The Trailblazing Explorer Who Redefined China’s Landscapes

Today, we’ll talk about the pioneering geographer Xu Xiake whose story chronicles his extraordinary 17th-century expeditions across China, where his detailed maps and observations greatly contributed to the country’s geographical knowledge while revealing many of its hidden natural wonders.

On September 14 at Sheshan National Forest Park in Shanghai a series of events were launched to commemorate the 400th anniversary of when Xu Xiake got his nickname and how it is associated with Sheshan. In attendance were prominent scholars, cultural figures, and tourism representatives who gathered to blend Xu Xiake’s cultural heritage with Sheshan’s tourism resources. And similarly to the way museums are going high-tech these days, folks at Sheshan are also integrating various tourism products with smart technology. This initiative aims to guide people as they explore Sheshan’s natural beauty, cultural landscape, and historical significance, allowing them to more fully experience the poetic and distinct vision described by Xu Xiake.

Due to Xu Xiake’s passion for travel and his frequent stays in the mountains and forests of Sheshan and elsewhere, a famous Ming Dynasty writer, painter, and recluse named Chen Jiru gave him the nickname “Xiake”. Xia(霞) means rosy clouds like at sunset or sunrise, and if it is used as part of a name, it usually is reserved for beautiful girls, but the character Ke(客) let’s everyone know that the name belongs to a distinguished gentleman or writer who is also a guest. So, the name literally means “distinguished guest amidst the clouds”. It’s really quite clever, and Chen Jiru first penned the moniker in 1624 making this year the 400th anniversary of the “Xiake” name originating from Xu’s writings about Sheshan. 

Xu Xiake was born with the name Xu Hongzu in 1586 in Jiangyin, Jiangsu Province, into a scholarly family. His ancestors had all been officials, but Xu Xiake’s father became disillusioned with officialdom and vowed never to hold office. Instead, he found joy in nature, often embarking on mountain excursions. There was one occasion, as the story goes, when two officials came to consult with him on some issue, but Xu Xiake’s father escaped through the back door and sailed off to Lake Tai for a leisurely trip.

From a young age, Xu Xiake was influenced by his father’s disdain for conventional exams, and while at school, he would secretly read his father’s books on geography and famous people. His fascination with these subjects often made him lose track of time or burst out laughing in the middle of class. Of course, he was often scolded by his teacher, but when the teacher reported this behavior to his father, rather than get angry, his father would be pleased and recommend even more books. This led to Xu Xiake neglecting his studies and failing exams, which disappointed relatives who had high hopes for him. His father, however, was supportive and encouraged him to pursue his passion for exploration, dismissing fame and fortune.

As time passed, Xu Xiake immersed himself in books on literature, history, geography, and local chronicles. By the age of 19, he had dedicated himself to rigorous study, and through it, he realized that most geography books were focused on administrative changes and local customs but were vague about the natural features of mountains and rivers. Moreover, it became clear that many authors relied on secondhand information and rarely conducted firsthand investigations, leading to contradictions when comparing the information of one book with that of another.

Determined to explore the landscapes of China himself, with the intention of correcting errors in ancient texts and providing accurate information for future generations, Xu Xiake was ready to set out. But just as he was preparing to depart, his father suddenly passed away. According to the filial piety rules of the feudal society, he had to observe a three-year mourning period, which delayed his journey. After the mourning period, Xu bade farewell to his mother and wife and embarked on his arduous journey.

By the time Xu and his three companions climbed Yandang Mountain in east China’s Zhejiang Province, he had been on his journey for five years. Throughout these years, he trekked mountains and crossed rivers during the day, and no matter how exhausted he was, he wrote travel notes by dim light each night without missing a single day. This habit continued until his final expedition.

Mountain weather in summer is notoriously unpredictable. A sunny day can swiftly turn into a torrential downpour. Xu Xiake and his team were drenched by the rain as they trudged through the muddy mountain paths. When they finally arrived at Yandang Mountain, the rain had stopped, and a rainbow arched across the sky. The peaks, washed clean by the rain, stood even more majestic and beautiful. Enchanted by the captivating scenery, Xu wandered to the Big and Small Dragon Falls. In his journal, he describes the waterfalls as “cascading down like two white ribbons into a deep pool, churning up heaps of white foam and creating a thunderous roar that echoed through the valley.” According to local records, the source of the waterfalls was a lake on the mountain top, but Xu was not sure if this was accurate. He decided to climb to the mountain top himself to find out.

At dawn the next day, Xu Xiake began his ascent from the western side of the mountain. He described the ridge as being “razor-sharp and perilously steep, with no clear path and dense vines with thorns that drew blood at every turn.” After painstakingly climbing a sheer cliff using both hands and feet, he found there was no place to stand on the top. Noticing a small ledge below, he tied himself to a large rock and descended, but the rope was frayed by the rocks. Fortunately, he was close to the ledge; otherwise, a fall would have meant certain death. At night, under the moonlight, Xu Xiake, aching all over, reflected on the day’s perilous events. Despite his fear, he was indifferent to life and death, finding contentment in the results of his research.

Twenty years later, Xu Xiake revisited Yandang Mountain, this time climbing from the eastern side with the help of monks. He explored various peaks and finally located the lake, discovering that the water sources of the falls were in fact not connected to the lake, thereby contradicting the old records. 

In January 1637, Xu Xiake arrived at a small town west of Chaling, Hunan Province. While dining at an inn, he asked the innkeeper, “Excuse me, how do I get to Ma Ye Cave?” Upon hearing Ma Ye Cave, the innkeeper’s face changed drastically, and he nervously replied, “Don’t mention Ma Ye Cave! It’s notorious for its demons. Two scholars ignored the warnings and entered, and they were never seen again!”

Far being intimidated by the innkeeper’s fears, Xu Xiake’s curiosity was piqued. At dawn, he followed the directions he had received and headed straight for Ma Ye Cave. Upon arrival, he saw the cave entrance partially obscured by pine and cypress trees, flanked by towering peaks and jagged rocks – a truly foreboding place. Undeterred, Xu calmly lit his torch and ventured into the narrow, dark entrance. Inside, the chill was palpable, and the eerie silence was occasionally broken by dripping water. 

After winding through the cave for some time, he suddenly noticed a faint light ahead. Rounding a corner, Xu Xiake was awestruck by the sight before him: a narrow fissure in the ceiling allowed sunlight to filter in, illuminating the cave’s otherworldly scenery. Stalactites hung from the ceiling, and stalagmites rose from the floor, creating an astonishing array of formations. Xu recognized this as a result of water eroding the rock and depositing calcium carbonate. It was his first encounter with such a unique landscape.

Later, in the southwestern region of China, Xu Xiake extensively studied karst landscapes, exploring a total of 101 caves. His notes meticulously detailed the immense and irresistible impact of dissolution on the local terrain. Dissolution not only creates isolated, towering peaks and circular depressions but also forms natural “bridges” resembling doorways and stunning formations like stalactites and stalagmites. Xu was the first in the world to conduct such comprehensive and detailed studies of karst topography, predating European researchers like Johann Friederich Esper by over 100 years. It is no exaggeration to say that Xu Xiake was a pioneering figure in the study of limestone landforms.

At the age of 51, Xu Xiake embarked on his longest, farthest, and indeed final exploratory journey of his life. Before leaving, he told his family, “Consider me as if I were no longer in this world; take care of yourselves,” thus expressing his dedication to science. By February 1639, he had arrived in Lijiang, where he was warmly received by the local chieftain, Mu Zeng. Lijiang, located at the edge of Yunnan Province, was remote and difficult to access. The magnificent Yangtze River and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain deeply fascinated Xu. Mu Zeng, who was passionate about Central Plains culture, greatly admired Xu in return.

During his 16 days in Lijiang, Xu Xiake was so absorbed in his work that he often kept the lamp burning all night, and went to sleep only in the morning, successfully meeting the Mu family’s expectations regarding Central Plains Han culture. During his stay, Xu Xiake meticulously recorded the living conditions, ethnic relations, customs, climate, resources, and scenery of the Naxi people in his diary, providing invaluable written records for future research.

While living in Lijiang and exploring Jizu Mountain, Xu Xiake also completed important works such as A Brief Chronicle of Lijiang, Records of Jizu Mountain, Tracing the River’s Source, Records of Central Yunnan’s Flora and Fauna, and Origins of the Dharma King, among others. In Tracing the River’s Source, he was the first to affirm that the Yangtze River’s source is the Jinsha River, correcting the earlier misconception that it was the Min Mountains that guided the river.

Due to his prolonged travels and resulting health issues, Xu Xiake eventually became completely debilitated and exhausted. Without hesitation, Mu Zeng sent people to escort Xu eastward using a sedan chair. The journey took 156 days, and Xu formed a deep bond of life and death with the Naxi people. In 1641, Xu Xiake passed away at the age of 54.

Beginning his travels at the age of 22, Xu Xiake had spent over 30 years traversing China without any external support. He embarked on four major expeditions covering 21 provinces, municipalities, and autonomous regions, exploring much of China on foot. Remarkably, he rarely used horses or boats and often carried his own belongings. He ventured into desolate and remote areas, frequently facing life-threatening situations and enduring significant hardships. 

His dedication culminated in the immortal masterpiece – The Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake. This travelogue is a comprehensive record of Xu’s 30-plus years of exploration. Not only does it vividly and accurately document China’s rich natural resources and geographical landscapes with elegant prose, but it also includes many scientific observations and explanations that surpassed what was previously known, revealing numerous scientifically valid natural laws. Its immense scientific value provided invaluable material for subsequent research and earned it the title of “the greatest travelogue in history.” British historian of science Joseph Needham praised it, noting, “His travelogue reads not like the work of a 17th-century scholar but as if it were a 20th-century field survey report.”

Unfortunately, Xu did not manage to compile his travelogue into a complete volume during his lifetime. Later, as the Qing Dynasty soldiers advanced south, Xu’s son and many of his relatives tragically perished, and the manuscript of the travelogue was lost amid the turmoil. It was not until 135 years later that his descendants, after searching extensively, finally found the surviving fragments of the manuscript. After editing and compiling, the work was finally published, and though the compilation is estimated to be only one-sixth of Xu’s original notes, the part we can still enjoy today consists of 20 volumes and over 400,000 characters.

Well, that’s the end of our podcast. Our theme music is by the famous film score composer Roc Chen. We want to thank our writer Lü Weitao, translator Du Guodong, and copy editor Pu Ren. And thank you for listening. We hope you enjoyed it, and if you did, please tell a friend so they, too, can understand The Context.