Farne is struck down with altitude sickness, and has to rest in the hotel thinking about her family back home, while Iain heads off with Lucho to the markets and the Ocopa Monastery which was the base for the Catholic missionaries. Iain gets caught up in the San Pedro festivities.
By the next day Farne has recovered and they negotiate a car to take them back up to Arthur’s mule route and to La Oroya, one of the worst polluted places on earth.
Iain and Farne talk to Grant Gee, the film maker travelling with them, about his inspiration for making “The Gold Machine”.
Iain is reminded of the South Wales of his childhood in the 1950’s, in the era of coal mining and tin smelting.
By nightfall they have reached Tarma, and spend the night in the Hacienda Santa Maria.