Intertek's Assurance in Action Podcast Network

Sustainable Cosmetics – Episode 3 on Clean Beauty

December 16, 2021 Intertek Season 5 Episode 4
Intertek's Assurance in Action Podcast Network
Sustainable Cosmetics – Episode 3 on Clean Beauty
Show Notes Transcript

In the third and final episode on sustainable cosmetics, The Intertek Assuris team focuses on the concept of ‘Clean Beauty’. Our experts discuss what the main objectives and drivers of the ‘Clean Beauty' trend, and what brands can do to assure their products follow guidelines and trends.

Join our industry experts as they cover the topic and trend of 'Clean Beauty'.

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00:16 --> 00:37
 Speaker 1
 Green, upcycling, sustainable, responsible, natural. Here are some new words that define cosmetics today. Welcome to our special podcast series aimed at discussing green topics within the cosmetics industry. My name is Maeva and I am with Juliane.

00:37 --> 00:38 
 Speaker 3
 Hi everyone.

00:38 --> 00:41
 Speaker 1
 And Emmeline.

00:41 --> 00:43
 Speaker 2
 Hello everyone.

00:43 --> 00:49
 Speaker 1
 And we are regulatory affairs specialists at Intertek France

00:50 --> 01:41 
 Speaker 1
 With the emergence of cosmetics applications, many consumers learned to “decrypt” the products they buy. They learn to recognize what ingredients are present in them. This growing attention to the composition of products was given birth to the concept of «Clean Beauty» in cosmetics. The concept is so widespread that an international professional event, the «Clean Beauty» Connect, was even organized around it this summer. According to a study by Prisme Media Solutions and Adot in 2020, health is the number one drive for switching to «Clean Beauty» for 97% of consumers.

01:41 --> 00:02:06
 Speaker 1
 How did we define this emerging movement of «Clean Beauty»? Emmeline and Juliane, I am asking how and why did «Clean Beauty» appears because currently there are lot of cosmetics movement like natural and green beauty. Could you please tell us more about how did «Clean Beauty» appear?

02:06 --> 02:30
 Speaker 2
 «Clean Beauty» first emerged in the United States. Although a recent trend, it’s growing—and developing—all around the world. Deeming American cosmetics regulations too lacking for consumer health, certifications, labels, and brands have decided to create their own specifications for “cleaner” cosmetics. 

02:30 --> 02:44
 Speaker 1
 OK, so that's relating to American cosmetic regulations, and what are the differences between American regulations and European regulations for cosmetics?

02:45 --> 03:24
 Speaker 3
 Well Maeva the regulations are quite different. In general we can say that the European Cosmetic Regulation n°1223/2009 is more restrictive than American regulations because it requires the finished product to be judged by the consumer before being on the marketplace. There are more than 1,300 substances prohibited in Europe against only 8 in the US.

However the international movement of «Clean Beauty», which includes both Europe and the U.S., uses more than just health criteria.

03:25 --> 03:41
 Speaker 1
 If I understand well, «Clean Beauty» affects cosmetic brand all around the world, no matter its regulation.

It's «Clean Beauty» regulated in Europe. What is its definition?

03: 43 --> 04:02
 Speaker 2
 There is no regulatory text, nor standard, nor official certification for «Clean Beauty». As «Clean Beauty» has no real definition, it cannot be said that it’s “regulated” in Europe. Manufacturers of finished products are free to define «Clean Beauty» according to their own criteria. 

04:04 --> 04:18
 Speaker 1
 At the beginning we discuss about companies which build their own certification for cleaner product. But what does it mean? What are the main objectives of «Clean Beauty»?

04:19 --> 05:00
 Speaker 3
 Well, «Clean Beauty» has several objectives. One is the safety of cosmetics ingredients and transparency with the consumer. Indeed, today consumers want to use safe products, ones they can easily “decrypt”. Another «Clean Beauty» objective is sustainable development. This includes promoting local raw material sourcing and restricting environemental impacts through recycled materials and recyclable packaging.

Claiming the mark of «Clean Beauty» gives brands a certain legitimacy and reaffirms their commitments to environmental protection.

05:03 --> 05:13
 Speaker 1
 Thank you Juliane. This spot on sustainable development is really interesting. Have you got some example of criteria for «Clean Beauty»?

05:14 --> 06:10
 Speaker 2
 As there is no text regulating Clean Beauty, the criteria will differ according to company. Nevertheless, several criteria are quite common. Clean Beauty prizes simple product formulations, minimalist compositions, and restrictions on controversial ingredients. Vegan products—those without ingredients of animal origin—are also valued, as are products with fair-trade certifications that ensure fair incomes for farmers.  Moreover, Clean Beauty criteria often extends beyond the products to the companies themselves: Clean Beauty companies must demonstrate clean commitments to the environment, like having a low carbon impact, or using eco-designed packaging. 

Many criteria exist, but it is up to brands to decide their own.

06:11 --> 06:21
 Speaker 1
 Thank you Emmeline. There are lot of criteria and are there regulatory obligations on these «Clean Beauty» criteria or not ?

06:22 --> 06:55
 Speaker 3
 Clean Beauty and European cosmetics regulations come together on the safety aspects of the product. Indeed, European cosmetics regulations require that products be considered safe by a safety assessor before it is placed on the market. However, Clean Beauty values other criteria not currently accounted for by European regulations, such as the environmental aspects and the sustainable development of the products. 

06:56 --> 07:10
 Speaker 1
 OK, I noticed that a subject come back frequently in the discussion about «Clean Beauty». Those are ingredients. What ingredients does «Clean Beauty» target?

07:11 --> 07:46
 Speaker 2
 Clean Beauty often arises in response to controversial families of ingredients, ones with potentially damaging effects on the environment. We have seen Clean Beauty target, for example, substances suspected of being endocrine disruptors, such as certain parabens or BHAs (Butyl hydroxy anisol). Raw materials with noted environmental detriments, such as palm- and soy-based ingredients, are also a focus of Clean Beauty, as well as some chemical UV filters and silicones. 

07:47 --> 07:59
 Speaker 1
 I think I know the answer thanks to what we discussed before. But how do brands of finished product claim «Clean Beauty» today?

08:00 --> 08:34
 Speaker 3
 As of July 1st, 2019, the European cosmetic regulation prohibits claims containing the word “without” to avoid denigration of brands. Even if brands don’t claim Clean Beauty on the packaging of their cosmetics products, they can assert claims within their commitments and their values. 

Some brands have precise specifications and/or selects ingredients that they do not deem controversial. 

08:35 --> 09:16
 Speaker 1
 Thank you, Juliane. Thank you Emmeline, for all this information about «Clean Beauty». I’s really an interesting subject. For conclusion. In the absence of regulations deemed sufficient by brands and consumers in the United States, the Clean Beauty movement is taking hold and growing around the world. Clean Beauty places brand commitment to environmental protection and sustainable development, as well as brand transparency, at the heart of the purchase. Claims on these matters are brand-specific. 

09:17 --> 10:11
 Speaker 1
 How can Intertek help?

Our experts support you in setting up your «Clean Beauty» specifications tailored to your commitments from definition to product application.

Always with the aim of having cosmetics that are more respectful environment, Blue Beauty is getting more and more talk. Its leitmotif ? Ocean-friendly cosmetics. Topics such as UV filters, microplastics, and biodegradability are the new industry issues.

In addition to formulas, brands are committing to choosing more sustainable packaging. These different themes can be discussed in the next podcasts. 

Thank you for listening and see you soon! Bye

10:11 --> 10:13
 Speaker 3
 Thank you Maeva bye.

10:11 --> 10:13
 Speaker 2
 Thank you bye.