The Wine Pair Podcast

WTF is Châteauneuf-du-Pape? (A wine with a direct line to the Pope)

• The Wine Pair • Season 1 • Episode 168

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As the Cardinals head into Conclave to elect the new Pope, we head into our studio (ok, it's our basement, but whatever) to dig into a big, bold, red wine that links directly to the Papacy when it was in France. The Pape in Châteauneuf-du-Pape refers to, you guessed it, the Pope, and the name means “The Pope’s New Castle.” But did you know that Pope John the XXII actually had this papal castle built on the land that makes this wine? Châteauneuf-du-Pape would not normally be a wine that would make it onto our podcast - not because it isn’t good, but because it is a pricey wine, generally well above our $25 price cap. But for an occasion as rare and important as the election of a new Pope, we decided it was the perfect time to break the bank and taste and review this classic Grenache-focused wine with deep, historical roots. The real question is - are any of the wines we reviewed worthy of a papal blessing?!? Wines reviewed in this episode: 2023 Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020 Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape

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Show Notes

Episode #168: WTF is Châteauneuf-du-Pape?  00:00

Hello! And welcome to The Wine Pair Podcast. I’m Joe, your sommelier of reasonably priced wine, and this is my wife and my wine pairing partner in crime, Carmela. And we are The Wine Pair! 

If you are new to our podcast, here is what you can expect. If you love wine and want to find great wines at affordable prices, and you want to expand your wine horizons, and you want to have some laughs and fun while doing it - then you are in the right place! Each week we explore a different wine varietal, style, brand, or region of the winemaking world, and learn about what makes them worth knowing about. And then we taste 2-3 of those wines that are reasonably priced to let you know if they are worth your hard earned money. If that feels like your kind of party, then we are super happy you are here. And, we are proud to say that Decanter Magazine calls us fun, irreverent, chatty, and entertaining.

Carmela, we are going back again this week to wines that have connections to the Popes, especially since, as I mentioned in the intro, we are heading into the Conclave for the new Pope in a few days as we record this episode.  Last week, we did an episode on Tavel, which is a rosé from the Southern Rhône that is just visually stunning, and is sometimes called the Pope’s wine, and this week we are doing a wine called Châteauneuf-du-Pape, also from the Southern Rhône, and the name Châteauneuf-du-Pape means the New Castle of the Pope - and the name comes from the time when the Papacy was in Avignon, France, rather than in Rome, in the 1300’s. 

And, look, there is hardly anything more appropriate for prepping for the election of the new Pope than wine. For lots of reasons. First, the Catholic church ain’t afraid of a little wine - after all, a fermented wine is required as part of the sacrament of the Eucharist. I’m not kidding - it’s part of Canon Law. Second, wines and Popes are just connected, as this wine will prove. 

Now, there are other wines that have connections to Pope’s, including a few we have done like Orvieto, which is a wine named after a small medieval town in Umbria where it is made. There is a wonderful papal palazzo or palace in Orvieto called Palazzo di Papi, and in past centuries, Orvieto was a refuge for the Popes, especially when Rome became politically unstable or unsafe. In fact, during the Sack of Rome in 1527, Pope Clement VII took shelter there. And Orvieto wine, as would be expected, was served when he went into exile there.

Another wine from Italy with papal connections is Frascati, which we’ll have to do an episode on for one of our Italian wine adventures in the future. It is an aromatic white wine from the Lazio region near Rome, and Pope Gregory XVI and Pope Pius IX, who were back to back Popes in the 1800s, really like the wine.

But we’re not here to talk about those wines, Carmela, we’re here to talk about Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We’ll go into a bit more depth about the wine and how it is made in our deep dive section in a few minutes, but let’s just say that the popes who were in Avignon when the popes lived there were said to be avid wine drinkers, especially Pope John the XXII, who, by the way, was the last official Pope John until John XXIII who was elected in 1958, more than 600 years later. On a total side note, there was a Pope John the XXIII in 1410, but he was considered an Antipope and was actually the third Pope elected at the same time - yep, three popes at once, talk about confusing. But that’s a whole other story - back to wine drinking popes

Pope John XXII had served as the bishop of Avignon so he was very familiar with the area and the wines, and he regularly drank wine from the vineyards to the north of Avignon (in the area that would become Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and is said to have worked to improve viticultural practices there - at least he had his priorities straight, amiright?!? 

Under his papacy, the wines of this area became known as "Vin du Pape," which eventually evolved into "Châteauneuf-du-Pape.”  John XXII also ordered the construction of the castle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1317, which is where the wine gets its name, which became a summer residence for the papacy and is now a prominent ruin and symbol for the wine and area. The castle was completed in 1333, a year before his death.

Even today, bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are often embossed with the papal insignia, so you can see and hear the connection to the popes every time you hold a bottle of the wine. 

So, today we have two Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines that we are going to drink and review, one of which is a bit above our usual wine price ceiling, but for a special occasion like the Conclave, it’s time to break some rules, and we have more learning to do about the wine itself . . . 

But first . . . we have to do our shameless plug.

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And, as we do every week, we’ll tell you someone we think you should recommend The Wine Pair Podcast to - because the best way for us to grow listeners is when you tell your family and friends about us - and this week, we want you to recommend us to anyone who likes a bold and rich red wine, is interested in the election of the Pope, and isn’t afraid of dropping a bit of cash. 

RESEARCH ARTICLES AND LINKS FOR THIS EPISODE


Topic: WTF is Châteauneuf-du-Pape? 10:31

Carmela, I shouldn’t swear when talking about Popes, but we do need to ask ourselves just what the fuck Châteauneuf-du-Pape is, right?!?

Now, Carmela, winemaking in the area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape goes back to way before the Popes showed up there and before they named the area after the Pope’s new castle. How far back is not exactly known, but we do know that viticulture arrived in Southern France with the Greeks in the 4th century BC, and the Romans also established vineyards and maintained winemaking in the area, using the Rhône river as a key trade and communication route. So, wine production in the region dates pretty far back and continued through the Middle Ages to today.

Official records of vineyards in the area date back to the 1100s, and a document written in Latin from 1094 refers to the village as Castro Novo which translates to some like “new fort.” Bishops like their wine, Carmela, and the bishops of Avignon had been overseeing winemaking in the area for a long time, and the village was one of the fiefs of the bishop of Avignon, where they made wine for the locals. Remember, at this time, bishops were like kings or lords, much more like royalty than they are seen as today. And, it is estimated that vineyards made up about 45% of the farmable land, which is a lot when people relied on the land for food and their existence.

Red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is what we are talking about today - and yes, there is a white version, but it is not nearly as widely made - is primarily known for being a bold, Grenache-based blend. 

Officially, winemakers are allowed to use up to 13 different grape varieties for both red and white wines, although unofficially around 20 are used in the region. 

  • The red varieties allowed include Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Piquepoul noir, Terret noir, and Vaccarèse.
  • The classic GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) is very common in this wine, with Grenache often being the dominant grape. Syrah contributes color and spice, while Mourvèdre adds elegance and structure. Winemakers have the freedom to use any proportion of the allowed varieties. No rules!


Hand harvesting is mandatory in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is really interesting. And, grape sorting is also a requirement - winemakers have to discard damaged or unripe berries. So, while they are not fussy about the specific blend, they are fussy about the picking and sorting of the grapes.

For fermentation, tradition in the area leans towards whole-cluster fermentation, especially for Grenache. Again, if you remember, Carmela, whole-cluster is exactly what it sounds like - they put the whole thing in there - grapes, stems, and the whole nine yards. They do that because the tannins from the stems can add structure to Grenache which can tend to be low in tannin, and this also helps with allowing it to age longer. Today, however, many winemakers do destem or partially destemming to produce wines with more finesse that can be enjoyed younger.

Fermentation typically takes place in concrete tanks or stainless steel tanks. Some producers experiment with carbonic maceration to create lighter, livelier wines with softer tannins, often done partially or for a small batch used in blending. Fermentation temperatures are kept high on purpose, with frequent pump-overs and punch-downs for tannin and color extraction. That is why this wine is often considered bold.

In terms of aging, traditionally, Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines were aged in large wooden barrels (sometimes called foudres in French) for 12 to 18 months. Not only does this long aging on oak bring out the wood flavors, but because oak is porous, it also means the wines get some exposure to oxygen - and all of this is why Châteauneuf-du-Pape can come across as a bit funky. Aging in amphorae or jars is also emerging as a trend, another place where very old winemaking techniques are coming back.

Another interesting aspect of the winemaking process is that irrigation is generally prohibited during the growing season, and allowed only twice per season with special permission during drought years. They also have a maximum yield that is allowed - they keep the yield of grapes low, which is meant to ensure quality. When yield is low, vineyard farmers will make sure only the best grapes are kept.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are often high in alcohol, typically ranging from 14% to 15.5% and above, with a minimum of 12.5% under appellation rules - without chaptalization being allowed. While considered tough and tannic when they are young, Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines can retain rich spiciness as they age. The focus for winemakers is to try and balance the high sugar levels with tannins and alcohol. Which is why, to balance all of that out, they all tend to be pretty high - sugar, tannins, and alcohol.

So, on that note, I think it’s time to learn a little more about the specific wines we are drinking today. Whaddya say?


Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wines We Chose for This Episode 19:26

Usually I would say here that the wines we have chosen for this episode are under $25, and all of them should be relatively easy to find, but I have to be honest. One of the wines was under $25 and should be relatively easy to find because I bought it, with great fear and trepidation, at Total Wine. The second wine I bought at a local wine shop we like called Esquin, and it was quite a bit over the $25 range, but, unfortunately, that is true for a lot of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. You are generally going to have to spend $35 or more.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape should not be super hard to find if you go to a decent wine shop or a store with a good wine selection. You will not find it at your local 7-11 or WalMart because of its price point. This is a relatively spendy wine, but we feel like we have to cover it because 1) it is one of the great wines of the world and 2) it’s named after the Popes. So come on!

The first wine we are going to try to today is the 2023 Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape which I bought at Total Wine and was definitely the least expensive Châteauneuf-du-Pape could find there, which is why I went to Total Wine in the first. And it is not a Winery Direct wine, which I find shocking since I find that the vast majority of the swill they sell at Total Wine is winery direct.

There is also not a ton of information about this wine. I couldn’t find a website or Instagram account, and even ChatGPT couldn’t tell me anything about it, so I’ll give you some general information.

First, Marc Bonadieu is said to be known for producing wines that offer a balance of quality and value. And that’s it. That’s all I got about the winemaker.

I can also tell you a little about the 2023 vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape which was evidently impacted by a series of weather challenges, including intense summer heatwaves. Despite these challenges, the wines produced are generally of good to very good quality, with descriptors like "alluring," "sexy," "perfumed," and "juicy" frequently used. Sounds an awful lot like how I am usually described

This is a very young wine, and so that could really impact the experience, but that’s about it, so let’s move on to the next wine which is  . . .

The 2020 Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There is also not a ton I could find out about this wine, but I can tell you that Baptiste Hillaire is the son of a relatively well known winemaker from the area named Olivier Hillaire, and you can find his wines online for sure. Baptiste evidently made wines alongside his father for years before he started his personal label. The Hillaires are known for making Grenache-driven wines from small estate plots.

Jeb Dunnuck gave this wine a 93 rating, which is pretty high. According to one website the blend is definitely Grenache heavy at 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, but from what I have seen, they change the blend each year, and sometimes by a lot. 

The one description I saw a few times online gave a few clues as well: Hillaire’s eight hectares of vineyards (that’s about 20 acres which would be considered pretty small) sit on Chateauneuf’s famous galet roules (quartz pebbles), which retain heat from the afternoon sun and release it overnight, letting the grapes ripen slowly to perfection. The wine rested in stainless-steel vats, preserving its fresh-fruit character

But that about all there is so - let’s get to drinking this wine of the Popes!  We’ll take a quick break and be right back. And, if you have these wines or similar wines, drink along with us to get some participation points, which you can trade-in for free stickers. You just need to send me an email with your mailing address, and I will get those “I drink with The Wine Pair Podcast” stickers over to you!


LINKS TO SOURCES FOR THESE SPECIFIC WINES


2023 Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020 Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Tasting, Pairing, and Review 25:40

Wine: Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Region: France, Rhône
Year: 2023
Price: $19.97
Retailer: Total Wine
Alcohol: 14.5%
Grapes: Rhône blend [assuming GSM]
Professional Rating: Vivino 3.9

What we tasted and smelled in this Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape:

  • Color: Deep ruby red, semi-translucent, shimmery in the glass
  • On the nose: Fruit, cherry, plum molasses, honey, smoke, leather, cinnamon, warm baking spices, clove, red rose, perfumey 
  • In the mouth: Tart cherry, tastes a little hot (alcohol), cough syrup, grenadine, kirsch, cherry cordial, mocha, coffee, baking chocolate, lots of tannin on the end, black tea, a little young, needs to be decanted. Drinkable, not super complex


Food to pair with this Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Pasta with meat sauce, ragu, lasagna with meat, tastes like family Sunday night dinner wine, pasta bake, charred meats, steak, charred veggies, cheeseburger, greasy
 
As a reminder on our rating scale, we rate on a scale of 1-10, with no half points, where 7 and above means that we would buy it, and 4 and below means that we are likely to pour it down the sink, and a 5 or 6 means we are likely to drink it and finish it, but we are probably not going to buy it. 

Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Rating: 

  • Joe: 6/10
  • Carmela: 7/10


Wine: Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Region:  France, Rhône
Year: 2020
Price: $37.99
Retailer: Mad Wine / Esquin
Alcohol: 15%
Grapes: 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah
Professional Rating: JD 93 Vivino 4.1

What we tasted and smelled in this Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape:

  • Color: Ruby red, translucent, looks a little like a Pinot Noir, shimmers in the glass
  • On the nose: Fruity, cherry, matchstick, smoke, fresh rose, smells syrupy, herbs, earth, dirt, salty black licorice, wood, gunpowder, complex and pleasant
  • In the mouth: Rich black cherry, smooth, balanced, grenadine, smoke, rock, vanilla, cocoa, still young so needs some more years in the bottle


Food to pair with this Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Very versatile food wine, flank steak, rolled flank steak, red meat, steak, filet mignon, steak tartar, chicken, crowd pleaser


Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Rating: 

  • Joe: 8/10
  • Carmela: 7/10


Which one of these are you finishing tonight?

  • Carmela: Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  • Joe: Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape



Taste profiles expected from Châteauneuf-du-Pape  42:24

  • General 
    • Flavors of dark fruits like blackberry, black currant, cherry, and plum, often accompanied by hints of herbs such as thyme, lavender, and rosemary. Can also feature earthy notes like leather, spice, tobacco, smoke, and garrigue
  • Marc Bonadieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    • Winery: Rich and complex. Aromas of dark chocolate, pepper, blackberry, black cherry, and toast. An incredibly long finish.
  • Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    • JD: Brings a touch more density and depth. Red and black fruits, sandalwood, and savory garrigue (Garrigue refers to the low-growing, open shrubland vegetation found in dry Mediterranean regions - herbaceous, earthy, and sometimes peppery) define the bouquet, and it’s ripe, medium to full-bodied, mouth-filling, and incredibly delicious. Drink it over the coming decade as well
    • Wine Chateau: Nose: Cherry, rubber, cream, and espresso. Lots of spice and dried herb notes like nutmeg, allspice, dried oregano. Palate: Raspberry, tart cherry, licorice upfront and mocha, oak spice notes on the finish.


What is the verdict on Châteauneuf-du-Pape 44:05

While it is not totally our kind of wine, for a special occasion, or a nice dinner party, it is a great option! And perfect for the Papal Conclave!


Outro and how to find The Wine Pair Podcast 44:58

Ok, so, Carmela, it’s time for us to go, but before we do, we want to thank you very much for listening to us - and if you haven’t done so yet, now would be the perfect time to follow or subscribe to our podcast and also a fantastic time to leave us a nice rating and review on our website or Apple podcasts or other podcast app - and it is an awesome and free way to support us and help us grow listeners.

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