The Wine Pair Podcast

Costco Kirkland Signature 2022 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Challenge!

• The Wine Pair • Season 1 • Episode 169

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It ain’t easy to find an Oregon Pinot Noir under $25, but in this episode, we taste and review 3 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs to see if any of them are worth seeking out, and in particular, if the 2022 Costco Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is worth snagging. Willamette Valley in Oregon is said to create maybe the best Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy, and many of the Oregon Pinot Noirs command a premium price - maybe not as high as the great Burgundies, but still a pretty penny. So the real question we are looking to answer is - can you get a great or even good Pinot Noir at a price point under $20. And if so, where does the Kirkland version, rank in comparison? We are not going to give it away - we want you to listen in to learn more - and we do spend some time talking about the amazing woman behind the Kirkland Willamette Pinot Noir named Sarah Cabot. She has a great story, and there are some overlaps with our backgrounds, so we are thrilled to learn more about here. Wines reviewed in this episode: 2022 Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022 Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022 Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

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Show Notes

Episode 169: Costco Kirkland Signature 2022 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Challenge! ()  00:00

Hello! And welcome to The Wine Pair Podcast. I’m Joe, your sommelier of reasonably priced wine, and this is my wife and my wine pairing partner in crime, Carmela. And we are The Wine Pair! 

If you are new to our podcast, here is what you can expect. If you love wine and want to find great wines at affordable prices, and you want to expand your wine horizons, and you want to have some laughs and fun while doing it - then you are in the right place! Each week we explore a different wine varietal, style, brand, or region of the winemaking world, and learn about what makes them worth knowing about. And then we taste 2-3 of those wines that are reasonably priced to let you know if they are worth your hard earned money. If that feels like your vibe, then we are super happy you are here.And, we are proud to say that Decanter Magazine calls us fun, irreverent, chatty, and entertaining.

I just want to say that, with last week being Conclave and all that - people were digging the episode on Châteauneuf-du-Pape! I guess every once it a while we can tap into the zeitgeist.

But this week, Carmela, we are back with one of my favorite episode series, which is where we see how Costco Kirkland Signature wines compare with others, and today we are tasting and reviewing the 2022 Costco Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir against similarly priced Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs also from the 2022 vintage to see which is the better deal. BTW, we have a bunch of Costco episodes we are doing because, well, I bought a bunch of Costco wine, so don’t be surprised if you see a few more show up in the next few months.

In a way, this is ALSO one of our much beloved High QPR Pinot Noir episodes, but since the Costco Kirkland Signature Challenge episodes are pretty popular, we are going with that as the title. 

Now, we love Pinot Noir, and I am beginning to really like Oregon Pinot Noir, and I could talk for hours about Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, but I am going to save some of my passion and interest for other episodes because we need to do more episodes on it. I will say, it has been challenging to find Oregon Pinot Noirs that fit into our under $25 price range, but we are sure going to try. 

Today, we are going to do a super quick background on Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and why it is such a big deal, and then we are going to spend some time learning more about Sarah Cabot, who is the winemaker who makes the Costco Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir - before we go to our tasting and review section. Sound good?

First, Carmela, if you don’t know, the Willamette Valley in Oregon is considered to be about the closest thing you can get to a Burgundy wine without going to Burgundy - where the wine can be even more expensive than in Oregon. Remember, a red Burgundy wine is Pinot Noir, and the most expensive wines in the world come from Burgundy. And they ain’t exactly cheap most of the time in Oregon either.

But why is Willamette Valley considered to be nearly on par with Burgundy you may ask? Here are a few reasons:

  1. Both Burgundy and the Willamette Valley share a cool climate, which is influenced by the Cascade mountains and  also influenced the not so distant Pacific ocean. And this kind of climate is key for growing great Pinot Noir grapes - in fact, some call Burgundy and the Willamette Valley a sort of Goldilocks zone for Pinot. The Willamette Valley is slightly more temperate, but it has a long, cool growing season and similar latitude (around 45° N), which is why you will find Oregon Pinots to be much more elegant and balanced than most California or other warm weather Pinots. 
  2. Both regions are said to embrace the concept of terroir, which, as we have said, is just a fancy way of saying that wine reflects the characteristics of the place where its grapes are grown. Like Burgundy, the Willamette Valley has many sub-zones like Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, and Yamhill-Carlton, each with different soil types (volcanic, sedimentary, marine), different elevations, and different microclimates. As a result, you will often find, like in Burgundy, that Oregon Pinots mention both the region and the specific vineyard. 
    • Another similarity is that many Willamette Valley winemakers focus more on quality over quantity, and many make relatively small amounts of wine, which increases both the excellence of the wine, and the cost. 
  3. Many Willamette winemakers also purposely emulate or try to imitate Burgundian styles, using the same traditional methods you will find in Burgundy like:
    • Minimal intervention
    • Native yeast fermentation
    • Gentle oak aging - often in French barrels - which again are more mellow than American oak
    • Low extraction techniques to preserve nuance. Which means that when they do things to get more flavor from the juice, like pouring the juice back over the skins, etc., they do so in more gentle ways. No punching of the cap, amiright?!?
    • This ends up in wines that are lighter-bodied, aromatic, and nuanced—not dissimilar to what you find in village-level or premier cru Burgundy. Maybe not Grand Cru worthy, but still pretty damn good.


Because of this, many Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs have very strong reputations, and have price points that very often start at $45, and several are more than $100 out of the gate. Some of the more famous and well-regarded wineries include Domaine Drouhin (which is actually a Burgundy winery that makes wine in Oregon as well), Domaine Serene, Ayres Vineyards, Brick House, Antica Terra, Bergström Wines, Cristom, and Audeant. We also love Compton Family wine - they are a bit off of the radar, but they make really wonderful wines that are often reasonably priced and use regenerative agriculture, and we interviewed them several years ago. And, the folks at Chehalem and Stoller  who are in the Willamette Valley have treated us well, too, so we are shouting them out! 

I could go on and on, but that is enough for now. Because we have two reasonably priced Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs that I also bought at Costco to taste and compare to the Costco Kirland version, and what is extra great is that all three are from the 2022 vintage - which was supposed to be a good although tricky year - and we need to learn more about Sarah Cabot who makes the Kirkland wine . . . 

But first . . . we have to do our shameless plug.

Thank you for listening to us and for supporting our show, and if you haven’t  had the chance to do so yet, now would be the perfect time to follow or subscribe to our podcast and leave us a nice rating and review  to help us grow our listeners - and a huge thank you to all of you who have subscribed already! 

You can also follow us on Instagram at thewinepairpodcast, and on Bluesky. You can contact us on our website thewinepairpodcast.com, and you can sign up for our email newsletter there and you can also visit our “Shop Wine” and “Shop Accessories” sections where you can find links to buy the wines that we rate as buys in each episode and accessories we think are great choices for wine lovers and as gifts, too. 

And we want to make content you care about and you like, so send us a note or DM us and give us some feedback or let us know if there are wines you want us to try or wine making areas of the world you are curious about - and we’ll take care of it! joe@thewinepairpodcast.com

  • A BIG thank you to our friends the East Idaho Foodies who let us know that this wine was in at Costco and were the inspiration for this episode
  • Shoutout to Jens who we interviewed a few months ago for his book The Rosé Revolution and he sent us a nice note saying he really liked our recent episode on the rosé Tavel
  • To Dave Baxter who let us know that TJs is now selling an Orange wine made from oranges - which is WRONG and makes us totally skep.
  • To Maria K who reached out to ask us to think about doing an episode on boxed wines since we are all trying to watch our 401ks, and we love that idea.
  • To Shekar who reached with some awesome ideas like How to Order Wine at a Restaurant (and Talk to a Somm Without Sweating) - and we are going to pull together some minisodes on those ideas - since we need a lot of minisode ideas for this summer!
  • Masked and Uncorked on IG who sends us nice notes and said they really liked our Châteauneuf-du-Pape episode and was wondering if we were going to talk about the Costco version, so we’ll have to be on the lookout for it!
  • Corinne who asked us if we have done an episode on wines from Alsace, and we have done Alsace wines but not a whole episode so we’ll look into that. 
  • Timmysvino on IG who thinks maybe we have similar taste in wine
  • Our friends Tips2LiveBy on Bluesky who have a pet peeve about putting ice in your wine and we want to know what the people think!

Keep the comments and feedback and fun shares coming. We love to hear from you!!!

And, as we do every week, we’ll tell you someone we think you should recommend The Wine Pair Podcast to - because the best way for us to grow listeners is when you tell your family and friends about us - and this week, we want you to recommend us to anyone who loves Pinot Noir or the Pacific Northwest like we do!

RESEARCH ARTICLES AND LINKS FOR THIS EPISODE


Topic: Who is Sarah Cabot, who makes the Costco Kirkland Signature Pinot Noir? 12:30

So, Carmela, I thought it would be interesting to do something different in our topic deep dive section, something I don’t think we have done before or at least not done very often, and that is to focus on a winemaker, and in this case we are talking about THE winemaker for Costco for this very wine that we are doing the challenge on today. Kind of fun, right?

As we mentioned earlier, the person who makes this wine is named Sarah Cabot, and I was able to find some decent research about her. And you are going to like her, I think. For lots of reasons. 

  • She is an Oregon-based winemaker now, and she is known for expertise in, as you would guess, Pinot Noir
  • From what I can tell based on some research I was able to do on the interwebs, she is the lead winemaker for several wines under the Precept Wine badge including Battle Creek Cellars, Primarius Winery, and, who knew, Kirkland Signature. 
  • If you don’t know who Precept Wine is, and I wouldn’t off the top of my head, you definitely know some of their brands. They are a huge winery, making almost 1 million cases of wine a year, and in fact they are the largest privately held wine and spirits company in the Pacific Northwest, headquartered right here in Seattle. They were founded in 2003 by Andrew Browne and Dan Baty, and yes, Andrew Browne (brown with an “e”) is the person behind Browne Family Vineyards wine brand, as well as Waterbrook Winery, Canoe Ridge Vineyard, Gruet Winery, House Wine, Primarius, and Callaway Cellars.
  • Back to Sarah, she is originally from Seattle, and she had a deep interest in music growing up, which are two things that frankly make us really, really like her (we are in Seattle afterall, and, in a previous life, I was a musician - not sure if people know this or not, but the music we use for our podcast is music I played on and songs I wrote with good friends, including Carmela’s brother. I don’t think I have ever mentioned that on the podcast,  and yes, you can find a few of the bands I was in, including the band that is the music for our podcast, on Spotify, etc., but I digress). Now, back to Sarah again, she studied jazz composition at Berklee College of Music in Boston. So, she is an artist at heart, which we find is often found in winemakers - a blend of art and science.
  • Her career in wine started with her working as a sommelier in some upscale restaurants in Seattle, including Wild Ginger. From there, her interest in wine led her to study enology and viticulture.
  • Her winemaking career started in the Willamette Valley, and she gained her early experience at some well regarded wineries like Belle Pente and WillaKenzie Estate. 
  • She then was the founding winemaker at Omero Cellars before joining Precept Wine in 2014. At Precept she oversees the production of more than 1 million bottles of wine a year. That’s a lot of wine.
  • Given this huge amount of wine, you might think that this means that she focuses on mass-produced wine techniques, BUT she is known for making artisanal quality wines at a large-scale. In the research I found - which you can get links to in our show notes - it says she focuses on practical labor, scientific knowledge, and artistic expression. See, art and science - which we always ask winemakers about when we interview them


Interestingly enough, in 2016 she made the decision to abstain from drinking alcohol. What is even more interesting is that she feels that doing so has actually improved her palate and winemaking skills.

She is also an athlete, and, according to what I have read, she plays full-contact football. I am not joking. She plays for the Oregon Ravens, a professional women's tackle football team. The Ravens compete in the Women's National Football Conference (WNFC), and she plays as a Wide Receiver and Defensive Back.

In terms of her reputation, Sarah Cabot is highly regarded in the Oregon wine industry. Her wines have consistently received high praise - for instance, her debut vintage of Primarius 2014 Pinot Noir earned a double gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

She is also known as a versatile winemaker. For example, she has experimented with fermenting wines in sandstone jars and amphorae.

And, this may seem like an obvious statement, but it is an important statement, she is a female winemaker in a male dominated industry and she makes over 1,000 tons of Pinot Noir every year.

So, my take away - Sarah Cabot is someone who is not to be trifled with. She sounds like a total badass. I am super excited to try her wine, and to see how it stands up to the others we bought.

So, on that note, I think it’s time to learn a little more about the specific wines we are drinking today. Whaddya say?


Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Wines We Chose for This Episode 19:30

As usual, all of the wines we have chosen for this episode are under $25, and all of them should be relatively easy to find because I bought them all at Costco. It’s even better than that - I was able to find three Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs for under $15 each at Costco, which, quite frankly, is pretty rare. 

I am a little suspicious about the quality because high quality Willamette Valley Pinots generally go for a much higher price, but, for the sake of this challenge, we are sticking to price points that are close to each other. I will also say the price the wines were selling for at Costco was considerably less than I saw them selling for online at other retailers, about half the price, so there is something about how Costco prices wine that we can acknowledge as well.

All that is to say that it is not difficult to find Pinot Noirs from the Willamette Valley, but it is harder to find them at price points under $25, and it is really hard to find GOOD Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at $25 or less. A plug for our friends at Compton Family Wines, and, no, we are not being compensated by them, we just like them, and they do have some very nice Pinot Noirs in the $25 range.

The first wine we are going to drink is the 2022 Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, and, as usual, there is not a ton to tell you about the wine beyond the bottle. We have already spent a lot of time talking about the winemaker - Sarah Cabot. We also know that this wine has a “touch of French oak” because it says so on the bottle - but we don’t know exactly what that means. It could mean that it spends a little time on French oak, or it could mean that they only oak some of the wine and blend it with unoaked juice as well. All we can tell you is that French oak, as we have said many times, is a mellow oak and so does well with Pinot Noir. My POV is that American oak would overpower the wine. 

But honestly that is about all I can tell you other than it has a pretty reasonable if not low alcohol content at 12.3%, so let’s head over to our next wine . . .

. . . which is the 2022 Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. I should say that all of these wines are pretty young, and a good Pinot can age for a long time, but I would guess these are not wines that are going to be particularly age worthy. 

This wine has a higher alcohol content, more typical for a Pinot Noir, at 13.5%. There was a tech sheet for this wine which we have a link to in our show notes, and in that are a few tidbits of information

  • 25% of the fruit comes from a single vineyard called the Roserock Vineyard. That’s important because that vineyard is owned by the Drouhin family, which is a well-known Burgundy winery that also has a well-known winery in Willamette Valley called Domaine Drouhin that is well regarded. By the way, Drouhin also owns Cloudline, which is why they have access to this vineyard.
  • On a total side-note, the 2022 Roserock Pinot Noir received #6 ranking on Wine Spectator's Top 100 list in 2024, so if this wine has any of that magic, it will be a killer deal. 
  • They do not mention much about the winemaking process like fermentation or oaking, but they did note that the vintage was difficult to manage because it started late, but that they ended up with a very good vintage - and this is kind of true of 2022 in general in the Willamette.
  • They do also note that they bottle it with Eco-glass which is 20% lighter, so that’s nice if that is important to you. 
  • The wine did receive an 89 from Jeb Dunnick, so that is very respectable. 


So let’s move onto our last wine which is the 2022 Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, and this one had a tech sheet that gave a bit more information.

  • First, it did note the winemaker, Felipe Ramirez, who is originally from Chile, spent time learning winemaking in Burgundy and the Rhône Valley and is known to have a minimalist approach, which we like, and which fits with Burgundy-style wines
  • They also mention the Pinot Noir clones, of which they list several, but among them are some of the ones I like, such as Dijon 115, Wadenswil, and Pommard. We will spend time in a minisode someday talking about those clones.
  • They also say the wine spent 12 months in French oak, of which 10% is new. Just know that used French oak is going to be even more mellow, so although it is 12 months, it should still be a reasonable oaking. 
  • They also say they destemmed 80% of the grapes, and used indigenous yeast fermentation in open top tanks. So, that shows a bit of the minimalist or lower intervention approach.
  • Wine Enthusiast gave this vintage of the wine an 87, so that is also not bad. 


But, I think that is enough information - let’s get to drinking! We’ll take a quick break and be right back. And, if you have these wines or similar wines, drink along with us to get some participation points, which you can trade-in for free stickers. You just need to send me an email with your mailing address, and I will get those “I drink with The Wine Pair Podcast” stickers over to you!


LINKS TO SOURCES FOR THESE SPECIFIC WINES



2022 Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022 Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022 Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Wine Tasting, Pairing, and Review 26:16

Wine: Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Region: Oregon, Willamette Valley
Year: 2022
Price: $11.99
Retailer: Costco
Alcohol: 12.3%
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Professional Rating: RWS 7.8, CWB 88,  Vivino

What we tasted and smelled in this Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir:

  • Color: Pretty, light ruby red, translucent, shimmery
  • On the nose: Cherry, red plum, earthy, forest floor, clay, dirt, rose perfume, red licorice, smoke, fresh matchstick
  • In the mouth: Tart raspberry, raspberry jam, strawberry Pop Tart, it is young so it is a little sharp, cherry juice, not complex, not a lot of tannin, can serve chilled


Food to pair with this Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: Could do red meat, but might be better with white meats like pork, good acid so will stand up to fattier cuts of meat, would be great with Indian food. A good summer lunch wine, with a nice Italian sandwich shop. 

A great party wine
 
As a reminder on our rating scale, we rate on a scale of 1-10, with no half points, where 7 and above means that we would buy it, and 4 and below means that we are likely to pour it down the sink, and a 5 or 6 means we are likely to drink it and finish it, but we are probably not going to buy it. 

Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Wine Rating: 

  • Joe: 7/10
  • Carmela: 7/10



Wine: Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (Click here to find this wine on wine.com. We may be compensated if your purchase)
Region: Oregon, Willamette Valley
Year: 2022
Price: $14.99 (at Costco, but I has seen it about $10 more online)
Retailer: Costco
Alcohol: 13.5%
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Professional Rating: JD 89 Vivino 3.8

What we tasted and smelled in this Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir:

  • Color: A little darker than the Kirkland. Translucent, not as shimmery or light as we would expect from a Pinot
  • On the nose: Campfire smoke, strawberry jam, strawberry filled donut, rose, potpourri, sweet bread, raspberry, strawberry cream  
  • In the mouth: Tart, sweet, a little cloying on the back, donut filling, raspberry preserves, jammy, tannin on the back, a touch aggressive


Food to pair with this Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: Cheeseburger, stuffed flank, pasta bake with meat, spicy sausage, needs really spicy food, spicy Thai food, salty foods like a cutlet, spicy Mexican food, jerk chicken 

Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Wine Rating: 

  • Joe: 6/10
  • Carmela: 6/10


Wine: Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (Click here to find this wine on wine.com. We may be compensated if you purchase)
Region: Oregon, Willamette Valley
Year: 2022
Price: $13.99 (Again, have seen it more expensive online)
Retailer: Costco
Alcohol: 13.5%
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Professional Rating: WE 87 Vivino 3.6

What we tasted and smelled in this Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir:

  • Color: Pretty, not super translucent, a bit dull ruby colored, lacks shimmer
  • On the nose: Dead animal, dog poop at first, gets a little better over time, rotten egg, sulphur, a touch of dark cherry, cherries you left in your car on a hot summer day
  • In the mouth: Tart, almost no fruit, rotten egg aftertaste, did we get a bad bottle? Very thin, old fruit leather


Food to pair with this Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: Grilled cheese, focaccia 

Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Wine Rating: 

  • Joe: 3/10
  • Carmela: 4/10


Which one of these are you finishing tonight?

  • Carmela: Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
  • Joe: Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir



Taste profiles expected from Willamette Valley Pinot Noir   45:14

  • General 
    • Red cherry, baking spice, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, earth, forest floor, mushroom, tea leaf, cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate, sometimes black cherry, blueberry, sometimes leather, dried rose petals, dried fruit, sweet tobacco
  • Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
    • RWS: Begins with a very pleasant aroma of red cherry, licorice, coffee and oak along with some hints of earth and forest floor. The medium-bodied wine tastes quite nice, it's just a bit on the simple side. Featuring red cherry and plum with a bit of a brambly note plus more coffee and oak, we found the 2022 to be a bit of a step up from the 2021. Smooth and and balanced, this is quite easy to drink. It also continues to get better the more air it has.
    • Vinopointer: It is mildly fragrant with black cherry, plum, and the typical Dr. Pepper earthiness.  In the mouth, you get flavors of black and red berries with nice notes of allspice in the finish. You might consider decanting this one for an hour or so.
    • CWB: The wine is a light ruby on the pour that you can see through; nice red fruit, earthy nose; medium in body with flavors of red fruit, strawberry, raspberry; gentle acidity with integrated tannins; really pleasant into the finish.
  • Cloudline Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
    • Winery: Fresh, fruit forward and inviting, it brings fresh personality and lovely raspberry, cherry, and strawberry aromatics. The mix of roundness, depth and a hint of fruit tartness plays well on the palate, creating a delightful, velvety touch.
    • JD: Is spicy and juicy with ripe mixed berry fruit, crushed flowers, and forest floor. Juicy and inviting, with a soft texture, fine tannins, and a snappy lift of acidity on the finish, it's a charming wine and a tremendous value to drink over the near term
  • Maison L’Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
    • Winery: A seductive and silky wine with red cherry and cranberry aromas that offer plenty of appeal. Cherry and spice flavors mingle on the palate showing intensity, depth and plenty of structure. Smoothly textured tannins are evident, leading to a spiced, supple finish.
    • WE: The Straight Shooter hits the mark with its aromas of smoked cherries, barbecued pork and damp modeling clay. The second shot is a bit off, as the tannins already feel integrated and the wine's acidity is as light as its mouthfeel. Flavors of cherry pipe tobacco, wet rocks and raspberry fruit leather, however, work nicely together.


Who won this Costco Kirkland Signature Wine Challenge? 48:10
Costco Kirkland Signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Outro and how to find The Wine Pair Podcast 48:35
Ok, so, Carmela, it’s time for us to go, but before we do, we want to thank you very much for listening to us - and if you haven’t done so yet, now would be the perfect time to follow or subscribe to our podcast and also a fantastic time to leave us a nice rating and review on our website or Apple podcasts or other podcast app - and it is an awesome and free way to support us and help us grow listeners.

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