Picking right up where we left off in the previous episode with Myles and Harry. If you haven't listened to episode 125 be sure to go back before continuing here.
The Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia has been on the radar of many elite climbers ever since Tyler Karow's viral YouTube vlog documenting his ascent of the South African Route during an unprecedented long weather window. This past winter, several teams from around the world came down to test themselves on the slightly overhanging 4,000ft thumb of granite. You've probably heard of Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee's remarkable 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route, or the first all-female ascent by Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kühne, and Julia Cassou. While climbing icons were making headlines, Myles Moser and his team were just around the corner making history of their own.
In this part of the conversation we dive deeper into what happened on the first expedition including a flash freeze the forced the entire team into a e-bivy. We explore how they managed resources on the wall, how a death block that Myles had found on the first expedition almost took out the entire team on trip two, and we go into the summit bid and descent.
This team is not sponsored. Every person on this expedition contributed their own money, gear, and time to make it happen. Which is exactly why this route — and their remarkable collective effort — has gone largely unnoticed in the wider climbing community, overshadowed by the catchy headlines of sponsored athletes. In alignment with the purpose of this podcast, I'm here to tell their story.
This is part 2 of 2 of my conversation with Myles Moser and Harry Kinnard.
#patagonia #firstascent #bigwall
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Both Myles and Harry have written remarkable journals from their time on the wall — filled with personal anecdotes and intimate moments not fully shared in this podcast. If you'd like to read them, they're available to Patreon subscribers.
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Cover Photo Credit: Trevor Anthes