UK Travel Planning
The UK Travel Planning Podcast is full of practical tips and advice to help you plan your dream trip to the UK whether you are visiting England, Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland.
Travel expert Tracy Collins shares years of knowledge and experience of travelling to, and around, the UK to help you plan your UK itinerary.
Listen to special guest interviews full of travel inspiration and practical tips for popular and off the beaten path destinations. Learn more about the best ways to travel around the UK (including by train), about British culture and history and much more!
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UK Travel Planning
Scottish Islands Road Trip Part 1: Lewis and Harris Travel Guide
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White sand beaches, ancient stone circles, single-track roads, and ferries that sell out months ahead. Scotland's islands are pure magic when you plan them properly, and we've just come back from an Outer Hebrides road trip ready to share the route and the reality so you can plan your own Lewis and Harris adventure with confidence.
We start with the nuts and bolts: driving north from the Midlands, choosing the scenic Glencoe route, staying overnight in Ullapool, and taking the CalMac ferry to Stornoway. Then we get into what actually makes or breaks a Scottish islands itinerary, booking ferries first, locking in accommodation early, and building in flexibility for the weather. We also cover food strategy, from stocking up in Stornoway for self-catering to why reservations matter, plus a few standout places we genuinely rate.
From there it's all on-the-ground tips for Lewis and Harris: how to handle passing places on single-track roads, what to watch for with lambs and livestock, when petrol stations might be shut, and why bilingual Scottish Gaelic signs are part of the experience. We finish with the moments you should not miss, beaches like Uig Sands and Luskentyre, the Callanish Stones, blackhouses, and local crafts including Harris Tweed, before giving an honest take on Skye's crowds, parking, and overtourism.
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📝 Show Notes - Episode 202
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Island Trip Teaser And Sponsor
SPEAKER_01From the white sands of Lewis and Harris to the dramatic landscapes of the Isle of Sky, I've just returned from an incredible journey through some of Scotland's most breathtaking islands. In this episode, I'm sharing every detail of the trip so you can plan your own Scottish Island adventure with confidence.
SPEAKER_00Welcome to the UK Travel Planning Podcast. Your host is the founder of the UK travel planning website, Tracy Collins. Each week, Tracy shares destination guides, travel tips and itinerary ideas, as well as interviews with a variety of guests who share their knowledge and experience of UK travel to help you plan your perfect UK vacation. Join us as we explore the UK from cosmopolitan cities to quaint villages, from historic castles to beautiful islands, and from the picturesque countryside to seaside towns.
SPEAKER_01Before we get started, we'd like to thank our sponsor, Walks and Devour Tours. If you're planning a trip to London, you'll already know the challenge. There's a lot you want to do and only a limited amount of time to fit it all in. That's where the right tour makes all the difference because you want experiences that are the best use of your time with more access, less waiting, and a deeper sense of the city. That's why we recommend Walks and Devour Tours. They offer walk-in tours and food tours designed to make your time count, often with early or after hours entry. You'll also be with exceptional local guides who add the stories and context so you leave with a richer understanding of what you're seeing and a trip that feels genuinely memorable. If you're visiting London as a couple with family or you simply prefer a more intimate experience, walks and devour tours also offer private tour options. To learn more, you'll find the link in the show notes. Now let's get into this week's episode.
Why This Scotland Trip Is Split
SPEAKER_01Hi everybody and welcome to this week's edition of the UK Travel Planet Podcast. Now, this week I am going to be chatting to Doug all about my recent trip to Scotland. So I have uh I actually just got back on Thursday morning. I took the Caledonian sleeper from Fort William down to Birmingham International, where it got off, which is a fairly recent new stop, I think we've added in. Is that right, Doug? Yeah, so that was really good. Actually, quite a few people got off, so that was good. So what we thought we'd do um to make this not an episode that's going to take three hours to talk all about my trip is we're dividing it up into two. So the first part will take us to um Oban, but you'll kind of understand that when we we go through, I'll go through what the itinerary was, and then part two of this will be at the end of June. So you need to subscribe and then you won't miss an episode. Um and uh that will be the second part of the trip, which I did actually on my own when I went to the island of Mull and used public transport, so that'll be a good one to chat through about Mull and Iona, but that's coming at the end of next month, so no spoilers for that. So there's no questions coming about uh about about Mull and Iona. We're gonna focus this episode on the first part of my trip, which um was to the islands of Lewis and Harris and uh Skye. Um so anyway, Doug, do you wanna take it away and uh just chat to everybody about uh what what where are you at the moment? You're in Australia, I'm in Australia.
SPEAKER_02That's right, I'm in uh just outside Brisbane in Australia.
SPEAKER_01And I'm actually sitting at uh at my parents' home actually to do this on my birthday. So I was recording this on my birthday. So I thought uh I would give Doug a load of questions and we can just chat through
The Route From Derby North
SPEAKER_01it.
SPEAKER_02Right, okay, and so before we get to the actual trip itself, uh how do you go about planning this fantastic adventure you've been on? And then where where did you start? How did you put it all together? And yeah, just give us an overview of the the route itself and the places that you've been, just in a nutshell, if you like.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, and I will say if you if you listen to thinking that's weird that Doug didn't know about it, it's because Doug wasn't coming on the trip, so I didn't, and because I was doing a lot of planning, I didn't really tell you a lot, did I?
SPEAKER_02No, no, and I'm not very good on boats to be fair, so no exactly, and this did involve boats, so you weren't that keen on it.
SPEAKER_01So I'll just say that I didn't.
SPEAKER_02I'd rather be on a train, to be fair.
SPEAKER_01Well, yes, I know you would. So I will just say that I did this trip with a very, very uh close friend of mine who lives in the UK who um said when I was telling her about what I was planning, she was like, Oh, can I come along? Um, so which worked out really lovely because we had a fantastic time and it was great to spend time with her. But um also she did all the driving, so that was wonderful for me. Uh so I could sit back and enjoy the scenery and um take lots of videos and photos, which I will share in the show notes on our Instagram channel channel and hopefully actually get a video up because I took lots of video uh of driving around Lewis and Harris, which I'm gonna hopefully put up onto our YouTube channel, which is UK Travel Planning, soon. Um so if you are planning to visit Lewis and Harris, you can get get a chance to have a look at what it's so beautiful, so beautiful. Um so the overall route was we actually started in Derby where my friend lives, um, and we drove up. So Derby's from isn't well, do you want to say where Derby is, Doug? Because that's where you're from.
SPEAKER_02Well, I'm near I'm not from Derby, I'm from Burton on Trent. She's not in Derby, further south. So Derby is in the east midlands, so right in the middle of England.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, so we we started out from Derby, and um, it's too far to drive up to Ollapool. Now, Ollapool is where we were taking the um ferry over to Stornaway, which is on the island of Lewis. Um, and it was too far to go one day. So we we stopped off in Gretna on the way up, which is somewhere I'd always wanted to go to because I'd kind of heard a lot about Gretna Green. Gret Gretna Green, if you don't know, was always very or is I don't know if it's still very famous for weddings and people are loping uh and running away and getting married. Um so we just stopped off there there one night, um which was which was really nice, a good stopping off place. Um and then the next day um we had the drive then to uh Olapool, and when I was talking to my my friend Kim about it, I was like, well, we could do it in this many hours. I don't think it was uh maybe five hours, or we can do it in I should know the actual number of hours, but um I think it was like seven hours to do this alternative route which will take us uh via Glen Coe on the A82. And obviously, uh when I said to her this is and I showed her some pictures actually of uh of Glen Coe, she went, let's go that way. So we decided yeah, so we drove that way, and she it blew her mind actually. She said to me, she said, she was so glad she did that because it was so beautiful. And obviously, we stopped off in the green welly shop.
SPEAKER_02Oh, very good. Yes, yes.
SPEAKER_01I bought myself a a lovely hat with a with a hairy cue on it, which is pretty cool, which isn't a lot of my photos. A lot of people on the Facebook group and on Instagram commented on my hat. Love my hat. Um, anyway, we stayed in Ollerpool uh for one night, caught the ferry the next morning.
SPEAKER_02So Ollerpool's on the west side of Scotland, isn't it? Just tell everybody which side you're driving up, yes, west coast, west coast.
SPEAKER_01Because we're so those we were going to the outer Hebrides. So um the uh Lewis and Harris are on the outer Hebrides, Sky's in the Hebrides. So um, if you look on a map, you you can see off the west coast of Scotland. Um, everybody knows about Sky. Um, and I am going to talk a little bit about Sky. Unfortunately, that Sky has got um it in my opinion is overtouristed. It is beautiful, it is a lovely island, it is easy to get to because you can go over by a bridge, but that unfortunately is having an impact. Um, and you just just trying to get parked and drive around is just a nightmare. Anyway, I'm just I will talk a little bit about Sky in a bit. But part of what I wanted to do with this trip was to highlight some of the other beautiful islands that aren't getting as visited as much. Um and put them on you guys listening. If you're listening to this and thought, well, I've never heard of Lewis and Harris, then you're gonna after this podcast, you are gonna want to go. I can I can assure you that. Um, yeah.
SPEAKER_02So how long did it take to put together the plan with you and your friend? Did it take weeks or months, or
Ferries First Then Accommodation
SPEAKER_02was it sort of last minute, or because a bit of a No no I did it in January, yeah.
SPEAKER_01No, I did it in January. I started as soon as Kim said she wanted to come. Um, I mean you know Kim, so I just said to Kim, I'll just put it all together. Um, but obviously I was doing a lot of other stuff at the same time because we were going to the Philippines as well. So if you want to listen to our Philippines trip, you can that's on Global Travel Plan podcast. Um so I needed to get the bare bones of it done because what people often think is they can wait to go to some of these. You cannot wait, you cannot just think, oh, I'll wing it with accommodation. Uh you just can't. You've really got to look. A, the things that you need to do first are ferries. You need to check the ferries. So CalMac ferries. Uh there's been a if there have been problems the last few years with CalMac ferries because the ferries are getting older and there's been cancellations, um, and it's causing a lot of problems for people on the islands as well, because um they need to get back to the mainland for you know for various things, doctor's appointments or dental appointments or whatever they need to get done, uh, hospital visits, and um and it's become a little bit more challenging. Uh, but don't please don't let that put you off. Um because it you know I booked in January, our ferries were absolutely fine. So obviously, with a car going over and um two passengers in the car. So the first ferry I booked was basically from um Ullapool to Stornaway, the second one was from Tarbett on Harris to Uig on um Sky, Port of Uig on Sky. Um, there was and then I did have another ferry um to from Oban to Mull, but I'll talk about that in the next podcast. Um, so I booked the ferries first. That was the first thing I did. Second thing I did is I booked accommodation. Now, when I booked the accommodation on Lewis, actually the lady got back to me and she said, Have you booked your ferry? Because she said often people will book the accommodation and then leave the ferry and then go to book a ferry and it's fully booked. So those are the two things you absolutely have to do first. Do not think, oh, I'm just gonna wing it, I like to wing it. I want to some places you can do that, you cannot do that if you're going to these islands. You really can't. You need to book. Um, when it came to booking in Harris, I really struggled actually to find accommodation. Now, this is January to travel at the end of April, beginning of May, and I couldn't, I struggled. So I turned to Airbnb, which I don't use that often, but I kind of went, I'm gonna have to look on Airbnb. Um, so I will talk about the different accommodation when we get to it that we stayed in. Because we did stay in hotels, we we rented a house, we stayed in Airbnb. So different types of accommodation. Um, but so we we planned the basics, we planned the ferry, we planned the accommodation. Past that, we didn't really do a lot of planning because I had didn't have a lot of time, and I figured, you know what, we'll see what the weather's like when we get there. We'll have a look and you know, it because that can impact what you're doing, and we were incredibly lucky because the weather was beautiful. Um, because you you don't want to be driving around Ireland to go and see beaches if it's pouring down and rain, because you're not gonna, you know, not the best. Anyway, so so I did a little bit of research about things like beaches and stuff like that and things to see, but not a detailed planning, yeah.
SPEAKER_02Oh, that makes sense. Okay, so next question is you you partly answered this. The getting there is you know, half the adventure, you know, that that sort of trip that you've been on. So the drive up to Ulapol, I know you sort of mentioned the ferries as well, but the drive up to Ullapool, Ullapol itself, I I have been there myself as well. So do you sort of advocate getting there early and explore or just arrive into Ullapool, catch the ferry and go? Is it something a place to visit? Is it a place to hang around, or you know, what what what's your take on the drive up to Ullapool?
SPEAKER_01Oh well, the drive up was beautiful because I say we went through Glencoe. So do that. Do they eight too? Because you get that drive through um Glencoe. So give yourself, add that in. Honestly, do not go the quick route because we knew the ferry wasn't leaving until I think it was half past ten the next morning. So we wouldn't have made that drive anyway. So I knew we were going to stay in Ollerpool overnight. Um, now time of year that we're traveling, end of April, uh, beginning May, light night. So it was light until after nine o'clock. So it didn't really matter what time we arrived because it was still light. We could enjoy the sunset over the bay. It was beautiful. Ollapool is beautiful, so it's very small, um, but it was just beautiful. We sat in the in the restaurant at the hotel that we were at. Um, and I'm gonna give them a huge shout out in a minute because we just the staff were amazing at this hotel, and um and I also thought I stay in lots and lots of different accommodation all over the world, but um, I'm gonna give a special shout out to the to the staff at this particular hotel. But anyway, I'll
Ullapool Overnight And Ferry Tips
SPEAKER_01talk about that later. But we we were very close to where the ferry leaves, like literally two minutes. So we had to go and park the car up um about 45 minutes or so before before, and you kind of cue your car up, and then you just say oh leave your car and then come back. So then we just had a little bit of a walk round, just you know, just watch other ferries coming in, and um again, then we had beautiful weather. Um, so yeah, I'd just do that and yeah, enjoy the drive up to Ullapool because it is it is lovely. Um and it's actually the drive into Ullapool itself. I'd forgotten how amazing that drive is, just how beautiful. Um, yeah, incredible. It was like it's like a bit otherworldly, it's like a completely different landscape. Yeah. Um, so I took lots of video of that because I was kind of going, oh, I forgot how the lovely this is. Um so yeah, it I mean the ferry crossing was was easy. You would actually be in fine. I know you don't like boat stuff, but actually it was it was smooth as anything.
SPEAKER_02It has to be very smooth for me. Very smooth.
SPEAKER_01It was very smooth, seriously. It was just literally flat. Good.
SPEAKER_02And how long does the crossing across? How long is that?
SPEAKER_01Uh two hours of 40 from uh Ullapool to Stornaway. Uh yeah, so that's a bigger ferry because there seemed to be um yeah, there's a lot of cars got on that, so and then you part you go on. Well, you know, you've done the ferries before, you just drive on, they're they've they're very, very well organized. You drive on, you part your car, and then you go up and sit uh and you can you know watch. I went outside quite a bit and did some videos again. I'll share that. Um so you can just kind of chill out on the ferry itself.
SPEAKER_02And your first views are stolen away. What what was your thoughts on that the first time you saw it?
SPEAKER_01Well, what was interesting as we were coming over to Lewis, that we kind of the cloud was quite low, and it so we were kind of going through the mist, and the ferry was making the sound. So it was really obviously trying to yeah, warning any small boats that probably wouldn't have picked up. So um, yeah, so that was really cool coming in um into Stornaway, and then we're kind of yeah, we we arrived and um we did a bit of stocking up at the Tesco in Stornaway just to get some food because the first place that we're staying at in Lewis um we we'd rented a house for three nights, yeah.
SPEAKER_02Okay, so you do actually need a car when you're driving on Lewis and Harris, don't you?
SPEAKER_01I I would say so. I mean, I didn't do public transport for Lewis and Harris, but I I I and I didn't really spot any buses, but I did ask Kim and she said, because obviously she was driving, so she probably I was too busy just ooing and R at the scene. Um she said we did pass a couple of small buses. So I assume that you could. I definitely could on mall, but I would recommend really for Harris and Lewis that you have your own car and then you've got that freedom to travel around when you want, um, uh because it it was just easier. But um, and I know you're probably gonna ask me about the roads now.
SPEAKER_02Well, that was coming up in a second. I was gonna say, is there anything that caught you by surprise, the roads or the signs, or was there anything you know, sort of in hazards like sheep on the roads and things like that?
SPEAKER_01Mm-hmm. Well, I'm gonna say that because uh because we're there eight end of April, May, there was just lambs
Single-Track Roads And Passing Places
SPEAKER_01everywhere, literally everywhere, and they're all over the road as well. They run across the road. You have to be really careful. We did pass some people who were driving far, far too fast. And you know, if you've got um uh uh you on one side of the road and the lambs on the other side, if the car's coming, they'll it will dash over to get to its mom. Um, and I've heard reports of you know, sheep being killed, lambs being killed. You really have to be careful. Now, a lot of the roads on Lewis and Harris are single track, majority, actually. Um, well, the one road that we first went on when we got the ferry, which was direct, we were staying in um Carlaway, uh, which is on the opposite side of the island to Stornaway. Uh, we drove along this single track road to get to the accommodation, and Kim had to really concentrate because it was kind of dropping peak bogs. Um, and then we realized actually there was kind of a dual road which went round the island. We kind of cut through the middle of the island, but after that we didn't do that road again. Um but but Harris was was single track, was mainly single track to where we were going, and um, so so Kim had to really concentrate, really concentrate on those roads.
SPEAKER_02Passing points was it on the single lane?
SPEAKER_01Yeah, a lot of passing points. And I did share in the Facebook group and and and and on Instagram, and I had a few comments going, what do you do? What do you do if something's coming towards you? Um, well, there's passing points, every kind of quite close together. Um, so the main thing is to know how to use a passing point so that you know the car if you're on the side you'll pull in and let the car go straight round you. Um so make sure you do not park as it park in and get off to have a wander around in a passing place because that's not what they're for.
SPEAKER_02But they're clearly signposted though, are they?
SPEAKER_01Oh, yeah, absolutely. Yeah, yeah, absolutely. Yeah, and very, very regular. So I don't think at any point I think once Kim had to reverse because we kind of met a car in between passing points and they didn't want to reverse, so poor Kim had to reverse. Um a couple of times actually should have to do the reverse, and so uh yeah, so make sure that you're happy that you know like you can reverse your car, so that that's important because some of those drop-offs were quite steep.
SPEAKER_02I know well. I've driven on Sky with you, so I and and I know what to expect to be similar to that. But uh quite topic at the moment, what about um petrol stations, gas stations? Is there is there any of those on Lewis and Harris?
SPEAKER_01Yeah, yeah, but you've got to you you know, in store we filled up in Storn away and we'll fill it up and target. Um, but yeah, you need to keep an eye on your uh petrol uh just to make sure that you've you've got enough again on Sky. We we filled up well, there was no problem. We didn't there was no lack of petrol. We could get petrol. It was just a case of um, like for example, on a Sunday, um, everything was shot in Lewis, so that included petrol stations, yeah. So um you need to you you don't leave it to the Sunday and think, oh, I need to fill up because you're not gonna be able to. What we were incredibly surprised about, and something that Kim commented on is the amount of electric cars that we saw. We would say um there was I would say it was over 50% electric cars.
SPEAKER_02Really? Mm-hmm.
SPEAKER_01Yep.
SPEAKER_02So there's charging points for the cars.
SPEAKER_01Yep, there's charging points, but again, you'd have to plan it, but there were charging points, and there certainly were enough electric cars. And I mean that they could they could be hybrid, but there was you know, uh Kim was gone, another electric, electric, electric, electric was kind of uh a lot of electric cars, they're very popular. Um I know that she's talking about getting an electric car next time. There definitely seemed to be, and and we did comment on the fact that everybody seems to cater to be able to um charge it up, but I would say where we stayed in Harris, you would have had to go to Tarbett and find somewhere. But obviously, because we you know Kim's car's petrol, we didn't do we just noticed that you you probably could um because everybody else seemed to be happily driving around an electric car, so it was it's definitely catered for more now.
SPEAKER_02That's got to what about the size of cars?
SPEAKER_01Was it sort of mostly small SUV and small cars, or was it bigger sort of well Kim did comment on yeah, there was people in uh motorhomes which I think Kim was like, I'm glad I'm not driving a motorhome. So she's got a a a medium-sized SUV. I would say, really, for those roads, you're better off in a kind of medium to small SUV. I wouldn't go larger than that. If you're happy to drive a motorhome and used to it, I'm sure you'd be absolutely fine, not a problem. But um I I just felt more comfortable and safer in Kim's car because it was a SUV. And I I mean, we always we always rent a SUV when we're traveling around the UK, it just feels safer. Um one question on that.
SPEAKER_02So top with the motorhomes, can you take those on the Calmack Ferry?
SPEAKER_01Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, but it'll cost you more, obviously. Because you've got to give the size of your vehicle. Yeah, yeah. To give to see the size of the vehicle, but yes, you can. And yes, there were people driving them around. So we did see them. Um, I would say um Harris is far more harrowing in terms of driving. Um yeah, I mean, Kim knew the road really well from where we're staying back to Tarbett, but you know, is um, yeah, give yourself plenty of time when driving. Don't don't we had to get the ferry um from Tarbett to to Uig on Sky, and uh we give ourselves plenty of time for that drive because you don't know you know what you're gonna pass, you're gonna stop, you could have sheep in the road, we had cow in the road, you know, you it you those sort of um things that you're not used to when you're driving around kind of main roads in in cities or on the mainland um are just all all very realistic possibilities that you're gonna come across.
SPEAKER_02That's good to know. Okay, so where uh let's talk about accommodation. So, where did you stay across Lewis Harrison Sky? And how did you approach the subject of food? Because obviously it's uh you know, I've been to some not Lewis and Harris, but I've been to Sky, so I know you have to plan. So, you know, things like cell catering and eating out, or was it a mixture of both?
SPEAKER_01Right. Well, uh, first of all, I will say if you've been following me on on Instagram, you'll know that I got caught out for this um on the Island of Mall, and you'll find out what happened. Um because sometimes we get caught out, we get caught out as well. Actually, I was talking to Sally Ann from North Coast Explorers yesterday for a podcast which will have been out, uh, which is actually coming out next week, which is all about summer in the UK. And she said about making sure you make reservations, eh, Tracy? And I went, yes. Um, so uh first of all, we had uh we South Catering. Uh so let's talk about Lewis first. So we we had a
Eating Well On The Islands
SPEAKER_01house, so South Catron, so we we did go to the Tesco, and there's a co-op as well in Stornoway in stocked up. So just take we're just talking kind of breakfasty stuff. We did eat out because we're out all day. Um, so we ate at the Uig Sands restaurant. Oh my word, you have to eat there. The view is spectacular. I mean, we had a beautiful sunny blue sky day, and the view from that restaurant is wonderful. It was a set menu, but really good. Really loved that. Um, that was really good. Um, and then for um on the Sunday, because we're there on the Sunday, we had a Sunday roast at the uh Dunan Hotel. I think I hopefully I pronounced that correctly. Um, I will just mention actually, because I skipped this and I did mention want to say is you did ask me about signs. Signs are in Scottish Gaelic as well as in English, because Scottish Gaelic is commonly spoken on the islands of Lewis and Harris, particularly Lewis, I believe. Um so you'll see a lot of and you'll probably hear somebody speaking Scottish Gaelic as well. We certainly did in a couple of shops. Um so if you think, oh, I don't understand that, it's that's probably why. And you'll see that the signs will, I think they were in Scottish Gaelic first and then English. Um so expect to see that. Um so I think Dunan Hotel, um, excellent Sunderse. So again, uh, we booked that. You need to make sure you book. We did look at that plan ahead and book it. Um so that made things easier, but you really need to do the research on the restaurants.
SPEAKER_02How do you book? You booked online, okay.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, yeah, online. In fact, online, I think. Actually, I think the Dunan Hotel, I think Kim phoned them. I think she phoned and and and booked that. Um the Uig Sands restaurant we just kind of turned up and we were fired that we managed to get in. Uh that was a Saturday, yeah, Saturday. Um, and we also ate in Stornaway at a lovely uh fish restaurant. I didn't have fish because I know everybody's going, don't think you like fish, I didn't have fish, but they did have alternatives as well, um, which was which was really nice. When we went down to Harris, um I cooked dinner on the first night. Uh we so we stayed at an Airbnb with the wonderful Alistair. Hello Alistair and uh and Ross, his dog. Um I I'm gonna talk a little bit more about Alistair because uh I just I loved I loved the stay with Alistair. I it was just it was just fantastic, it was one of the best parts of the trip for me. Um but yeah, so food is issues, so make sure you stock up if you're staying in somewhere like a lot a lot of Airbnb self-catering on Lewis and Harris. So you can take your own. And then the second night when we stayed down in Harris, Alistair um invited us for dinner. So he cooked a lovely meal, uh. So which was really, really nice. And we had breakfast, so we made sure, for example, in um Sky and on Harris. Um we had breakfast, so Alistair did breakfast. Obviously, when we're in Lewis, we just made our own breakfast before we went out, so it just there was a fridge and everything in the in the accommodation. So I will link to all of the different places we stayed, um, and there'll be photographs as well, so you can check all of those out. Um, food was really good actually. Obviously, a lot of seafood, and I'm not a big seafood fan. Um, so but if you are, you're gonna be in for a treat. Uh, but uh but otherwise the food was good, but you need to really plan ahead, do a little bit of research. I think we again I I tend to always slip up on food because it's yeah, I do enjoy my food, but it's it kind of always goes out the window and then I go, oops. Um Sky, we just ate well, we had planned to eat in the hotel on the first night, and then they sent us an eat because I I sent the email to Book and they went, Oh, um, and that was the Sky Inn in Portrait, and they were like, Oh, we're not actually that particular night, the restaurant was closed. Uh, we did eat there the next night. Um, so we went out trying to find somewhere to eat, which again is not that easy because it's even at that time of the year, it's a things are not necessarily open because it's not that the even though they say it's not high season, and you can't get parked or anything. So I kind of think maybe they should be rethinking when they say it's high season. Um, so that that made it a little bit more difficult that first night. So we had kind of planned it and then kind of went, mm, can't do it. Yeah, um, you can what you can do is eat on the boats, the ferries actually, and we did eat on the ferry because I got the message back from the sky and saying they couldn't do dinner. We actually ate on the ferry.
SPEAKER_03So also plan B.
unknownYeah.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just make sure you've got stuff. And um, yeah, I mean, the main thing for me is make sure I can get a c a cup of tea and uh and definitely and also I just I know we're talking about where we stayed, and um so I really want to give a big shout out um to the hotel we stayed at in in Ollupool, which is a a small, uh as I understand, a small family run hotel, and that's a Royal Hotel in Ollapool. I cannot recommend this place highly enough. So if you are gonna go and catch the ferry over to um Lewis Niharis, or you're gonna catch a ferry from Ollapool, um, Royal Hotel in Olopur, a huge shout out, particularly um, I'm gonna say the food was fantastic. So, Chef Paul, wow, we absolutely loved it. And a big shout out to the staff in the hotel, particularly Sean and Ricky, um, who I said I was gonna give a shout-out for. I've got a picture of myself, I think it's with with uh with Ricky um because he was there breakfast. Um, but it just it were just fantastic, they were absolutely wonderful with everybody, but just totally professional. With they were just so prof just friendly, um talking to us, chatting about stuff. Just I mean, it really was they were really standout, absolute standout of all the places we stayed where you just went well, that was over and above, over and above.
SPEAKER_02So makes a big difference, doesn't it? Makes a big difference when you're gonna be.
SPEAKER_01It was just yeah, they were just so they were just brilliant. So I can't I can't I'm gonna wax lyrical for the whole podcast, but okay, uh, I just want to say they were just fabulous. So honesty, give it do yourself a treat and go and stay at the Royal Hotel at Ullapool um if you're gonna be catching the ferry, or if you're just gonna stay in Olipool, go and stay there because they're great.
SPEAKER_02Well, it's part of the um North Coast 500, so if you're just doing that on the mainland, yeah, um bobbing there at Olipool, yeah. Okay, absolutely. So the next question, so I'm sure you can talk about this next question for hours on end. So, what are the experiences on Lewis and Harris that listeners genuinely cannot skip? And are there any well, are there any sort of uh good online but not really worth the detour? I'll try to put that diplomatically.
SPEAKER_01No, honestly, I'd go everywhere that because you you the it's I mean it depends what you're going for, but I assume you're going for like wildlife, wildlife scenery, beaches. Um the beaches are beautiful. Well the famous of the beaches.
SPEAKER_02They are famous. They are.
SPEAKER_01I mean, Lewis and Harris beaches were just I mean, it just seemed to get better and better and better. The first day, actually, I did plan a uh a trip to see three of the beaches, so we went to Uig Sands, Cliff Beach, um, and Reef Beach. Um, I'll put I'll I'll share pictures and I'll probably aren't going to be able to pronounce all the different names of the beaches that I should, so apologies there. But um, and then on Harris went to Luscantire, which again is just the I tell you what, the beaches are
Beaches Stones Tweed And Blackhouses
SPEAKER_01they're out not they're just outstanding, they're huge, they're huge, absolutely huge, and the the water is just clear, beautiful blue. I'd seen photos before, um and and and just thought, oh, this this can't be right. I'd actually followed uh an artist called Hope uh Blemeier, um, who does a lot of paintings of um beaches on Lewis and Harris, and uh actually was very lucky to she's got a shop in in uh Harris in Tarbett, so popped into the shop, bought a few things there. Um, and so I'd kind of been inspired over the years by looking at all these beautiful paintings and photos that she'd shared. Um, so that was a lot of the inspiration behind the trip. Um so it was wonderful to pop in the shop and uh and have a look at it. So her her paintings are beautiful, um fancy. And they really reflect the beauty as well of Harris and Lewis. Um so yeah, so just the beaches are beautiful, go for walks on the beaches. That's what that's what we did, that's what we enjoyed. Um, the Calanish Stones, uh which are second most important archaeologically to um Stonehenge, apparently. Um there's Calanish, yeah, there's part one, part two, or part three, probably just one, two, and three. I'm making it part one, part two, part three. But anyway, um the main ones at the top of the hill are just fantastic. I did go to Calanish three and get some pictures. I didn't go to Calanish two. They're kind of on a kind of you can kind of see from one, two, and three. So obviously, I don't know if when they were whatever they were doing that they could all see what each of them were doing. Oh, I don't know. Anyway, um these are so old, and I should know that how old these stones are, like thousands and thousands of years old. Wow. Um, and incredible and they're huge as well. You're like, how did these people get these stones up here and stand them up? Um, and I should know more about their their meaning and stuff, and I don't so I I will apologise because I just get overawed by these things and just go, oh my goodness, aren't they amazing? Um, so I will I'll we'll find out, do a little bit more research before the next podcast, and I can feel if you've got any questions about the Calanish stones, but um yeah, just and there's an avenue for like Calanish one. There's like there's an avenue you walk up and then the the kind of this the stone circle. Um, and just obviously accessible. You just climb up the you can drive up to one but walk up the hill to the others, yeah.
SPEAKER_02Oh fantastic. So I suppose there's lots of local crafts and products and things like that on you know on Lewis's Harris as well. Yeah.
SPEAKER_01Well, obviously it's Harris Tweed. So there's a lot of Tweed stuff. You can go and you'll find Tweed for sale everywhere. So yeah, Harris Tweed.
SPEAKER_02I never thought of that. Yeah, Harris Tweed, yeah. Um yeah, yeah.
SPEAKER_01Um and there's also the black houses. Um, so now they they are from you can go, we went in to see the black houses actually, um uh where we say in Call Away. Um, there's a couple you can go and have a look at, and these were lived into in until fairly recently. It's where you've got the the fire inside the house, um like inside the main room of the house. I think um no, like a fireplace thing, but they I guess they they they would there's a lot of peat, so I'm assuming they just burnt peat. Um it's where and where people lived. Um and they've got um stone roofs, I'm gonna get this right, stone roofs. I've got lots of photos. Um had a look round and went into the museum briefly to have a look round, so they're really famous, the black houses. Um and then, yeah, so so arts and crafts, yeah. Lots of crafts and lots of artists live on Lewis and Harris, so you can go in, pop in, and you can stop off and you'll see um different shops. Um, and we did have one beside where we were staying, um, and I popped in there, and the lady was lovely, and I got some photos and videos in her shop and did buy a few things. Um, no wonder you want me to be in the next suitcase. I've got her business card. I'll take a screenshot of that, put that in there. Um I can't remember what it was called. Oh, I can't remember the name of the shop, but I'll I'll I'll link to that in the show notes. I'll put a photo because uh a link to her business card, yeah.
SPEAKER_02Well, so much to see on Lewis and uh Harris. How long do you think somebody going for the first time could actually spend on Lewis and Harris? Because it is one island, isn't it?
SPEAKER_01It is one island, yeah. It's a bit confusing because it sounds like it's two because one's called Lewis and one's called Harris, but it's one island, but they're very different. Lewis is is kind of more like Peat, Pete Flatter, Pete. Um, so like peat bogs and marshes, I don't know, yeah, and then the beaches, but you go to Harris is dramatically different, it's all like um just just like mountains and big big stones everywhere, and just far more dramatic. Uh I I I think I think both myself and Kim both uh preferred Harry Harris, not saying that anything we would have we loved Lewis, so yeah, Lewis is amazing, and I would not skip Lewis anyway, but but Harris was just kind of like wow. But I mean I'm I'm a mountain person, I like mountains. Um just just incredibly beautiful and very different, just so different because actually the three islands that we were at. So if you think of Lewis and then we went to Harris and then went to Sky, all completely different, yeah, completely different type of scenery. Um so like it's really funny because we went to Sky and Kim hadn't been at Sky before, and she said this feels like more like the mainland, it's more gentle, it's like a softer, kind of fluffy version. Go ahead of like Lewis and Harris are just far more gritty and just um yeah, just I mean, fantastic, just fantastic, and I I'd go back to both in a heartbeat, in a heartbeat. But I would say we did five days, so three days on Lewis, two on Harris. That worked absolutely fine. I felt that was that was probably enough. That's enough, yeah. Yeah, and then we just had two on Sky, mainly for a couple of reasons. Uh one, I've been to Sky many times before, uh, and
Skye Crowds And A Road Closure
SPEAKER_01B, it's again, it's just even though this was the end of um yeah, it was last day of April, I think around it it was it was incredibly busy. We couldn't get parked, they were trying to get parked at the quarrying. Oh my goodness. There's just yeah, I'm a bit sad. I'm a bit sad that that's got to be.
SPEAKER_02From from Harris, isn't it? Yeah, yeah.
SPEAKER_01Tarbett, yeah, from Harris, yeah, yeah.
SPEAKER_02So how does that crossing work?
SPEAKER_01Um, exactly the same as the one previously. You just go and park up and then the tick, yeah, on the ferry. It's a smaller, it was a smaller ferry. That took about an hour 40. Again, it was very smooth crossing, so you've been fine. We've got off of Uig um on Sky, and then it was just a drive through.
SPEAKER_02You keep saying Uig. You keep saying Uig. Just tell everybody how you spell that, would you please?
SPEAKER_01Yeah, UI G.
SPEAKER_02Not egg, that's how I called it.
SPEAKER_01No, no, I did look it up and I did ask the locals, and it's Uig.
SPEAKER_02Yeah, okay. Uig.
SPEAKER_01I think it means bay. I think it actually means bay. Are some of these obviously the words the the county? Um yeah, yeah, it means different things. So Uig's B. Um, which is why you'll find an Uig on Lewis and Harris and an Uig on Sky. And there's Uigs everywhere. Um but yeah, so that that was the easy crossing, it was no problem. The main problem we had is that we were driving from from Uig to Portry and they closed there's not many roads, and they closed the road to resurface it. Oh wow. So we sat for nearly an hour before and then said, Oh, we're only going to open the road at 8 pm. So by the time it got to 8 pm, I can tell you how many irate irate because all of the people off the ferry, if they just waited for the people off the ferry to go into portrait, it would have midlife, but they decided to close it. And I I we were a bit like, well, no, the ferry's coming in with all these people. Anyway, so that was a bit of a um so there was a lot of irate people kind of going, right, so we had to wait 55 minutes to them, and then they opened the road and went with it.
SPEAKER_02I imagine imagine how many people get on sky coming from Lucy and Harris, and all of a sudden, of course, onto Sky, there's a lot more traffic anyway. Oh, yes, yes, because a certain amount of people that go to Sky is you know, it's easy, yeah.
SPEAKER_01It it's easy to get to Sky. Um, the roads are um the the main roads are uh are better on Sky in terms of like you know, uh that they're pretty good, but once you get again, once you get off on the single roads, um you know that they're not so good actually. I think they were better on Harris a lot. The Harris and Lewis, the single roads were better.
SPEAKER_02I do remember a lot of potholes on Sky.
SPEAKER_01Potholes, yeah, potholes on Sky. Um, and the problem with Sky is just as I say before, you just can't get parked because anywhere. It's just the the sheer volume because you can drive over, it's easy now. People can just drive over on the bridge. Um, so it's a less hassle to kind of organise to get there.
SPEAKER_02It's difficult to see the things on Sky because there's people all day long, you know, waiting to see.
SPEAKER_01Yeah.
SPEAKER_02So there's really no quiet moment, is there? It's just got to be lucky and wait.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, because we've done it early in the morning. We got up so early that the the mist hadn't had remember when we went to the quarrying last time and we had to sit in the car for like an hour, and even then trying to get parked, uh it's not easy. You have to pay for parking as well. Um, and there's just you just can't get there's just uh so many people, just so many people. So that's a bit of a shock to the system after Lewis and Harris with not so many people, uh yeah.
SPEAKER_02But so let's let's talk about budget and timing. So you've already said what time of year that you visited because you're not long got back. Um so it's hard to say about spending because obviously everybody has different budgets, but just give us an idea about costs of things and food and fuel if if you can. Not easy.
SPEAKER_01Well, fuel fuel at the minute has gone is it's gone up in in cost, so um again that that that's difficult to kind of. I'd say the main thing people were worried about is not getting fuel, but you you could get fuel. Um, in terms of the ferries, um obviously these cha these are are booked it in January, and this is for two passengers and a and and a car, but it it's gonna dip it depend on the size of your car. So the ferry over from st uh to Storno was uh 90 about 95 pounds, and then the ferry to Uig was uh was about 58, 59, I think, or 50. Right in 50. Um, and then accommodation, obviously, I was sharing that. So we it that that varied.
Costs Best Timing And Final Checklist
SPEAKER_01It's not cheap, I have to say to you, because um, you know, there's a lot of demand for if you people going over if they're going to Harrison Lewis, and there's only a certain amount of places you can stay. Um so it it's not cheap, but it but it's good. So as I say, the first place we had um uh a two-bedroomed uh house, which was which actually was three-bedroom um house, which was really nice with with everything included, so you know, kitchen and good wash stuff and all the rest of it, um, which was lovely. Uh, and then we stayed in Harris, we stayed at Alistair's Airbnb. So that Alistair um is fantastic, and he I I just had an amazing time. I've shared some beautiful photos. I went for a walk with yeah, I went for a walk with Alistair and Ross, yeah, he's collie dog, um, one evening uh because he does that twice a day, takes the dog for a walk around. So that was uh yeah, I don't know how long it took, maybe an hour or so, and it was up and down and round. He's like a mountain goat, he was unbelievable. Um and I was like, as me with my stick, struggling. It's a bit marshy at paces, but oh my god, the view. Then then I planted a tree as well. So there's Tracy's tree in Alistair's place. Um and Alistair was, you know, uh what a what a fantastic guy, what a place to live. So his mum was born on Harris, so he's got that connection, and he used to travel there all the time as a child. He told me so many amazing stories. Um, and he decided that's where he wanted to retire to, so built his house, uh, which he has an Airbnb. Oh fantastic. And um, yeah, uh just just fantastic, absolutely just loved Alistair. So I'm hoping I can share this podcast and he can he can listen to to know how much he was appreciated because he he truly was uh fantastic. And he lived in Australia as well, part of his life. So we're talking about it. He lived in Perth, so we talked about that, yeah. Um it was great, yeah, and just going out with with Ross, the dog, and uh, it was just it was lovely, it was so relaxing. Um, now I will say and I I kind of learnt this from Mole. I think I guess there's a lot of bird watchers out there, so I'm sure there's lots of bird life as well on Lewis and Harris, which I probably didn't appreciate as much as I did until I went to Maul, and people went, Oh, look, there's a white-tailed eagle and there's a golden eagle. I was like, oh wow. Um so I assume that's also fantastic bird life on uh better is yeah, Lewis and Harris as well, yeah. Uh but yeah, the weather was really good. We were very, very lucky. In fact, when we were shopping in uh the Tesco, the the cashier was saying, You're so lucky, the weather is perfect because they've had a lot of rain, and we literally had sunshine and um as warm as it's gonna get for those on. So it's still it was still pretty, you know, it wasn't 30 degrees, put it that way, but it was warm. Uh I had my jacket on. I had a hat still had a hat and scarf on, um, but it was beautiful, sunglasses on, enjoying that. As I say, it wasn't there wasn't a lot of wind. So there's no there used to be trees apparently on on Lewis, but maybe Lewis and Iris, but there's not anymore because apparently now I don't know if it's true, the Vikings have burnt them all down, so I uh and now they've got the peat bogs, so don't quote me on that. But so there's not, but they say that's quite windy those islands, but um we didn't have a lot of wind, so yeah, it was good. It was really, really good.
SPEAKER_02Sounds like a fantastic trip you've had. So if anybody's listening to this and they're actually looking to do something similar, you know, what does the the planning checklist actually look like? And is there anything you'd do slightly different next time?
SPEAKER_01Uh no, I think it worked out really well. I think the the mountain nights was good, the three and the two, because because obviously after that I was going to sky and then I was going to mole and I had five nights in mole, so that worked really well. Um probably just spend I I don't know. I I just I think if you're driving yourself, maybe just take a few um you know, just take a few groceries and stuff like that with you, but you can buy them. You can buy those and store them away. Just just if if it's important to you about, you know, knowing where you're gonna have dinner, then you just you do need to plan that ahead of time. Um if you're not in a place where you can self cater.
SPEAKER_02Um And what about the time of year that you went? Is do you would you say that is a a very good time of year to go, or would you go slightly different time?
SPEAKER_01No, I think it was actually perfect. Um I I I mean, we didn't have any midges, but uh midges, midges, whatever you want to pronounce them. Um but I think they can There can be a little bit of a of an issue, but there's lots of it depends on the the weather again. But I think in the summer they can be a little bit more annoying. Um but again, like a bit of breeze and stuff and and that kind of they don't like breeze and they don't like uh they don't like sunny days, apparently. So uh we didn't have any issues with that. It was quite on Lewis and Harris, uh, but again, there's only a limited amount of people that can go there. And I was actually talking to again some of the locals, and they're quite happy with the volume they've got because they they are concerned that they don't have the infrastructure in place, a bit like Sky doesn't, um infrastructure in place to deal with a huge influx influx of tourists, that's for sure. Um and I don't think they do. They I don't think they'll be able to cope with it. So um it it's probably it's probably as what it needs to be at the moment. I don't think they're particularly I mean I don't know. I think there it has been quiet this year. I think there's a little bit of concern about it's quiet and whether that's due to the ferries or whether that's just due to tourism general is a little bit down this year. Um but just yeah, just be aware things like um on a Sunday in Lewis, things will be shut. Um I assume be exactly the same in Harris. We weren't in Harris on the Sunday, but uh Lewis, everything was shut, like all the shops, there's nothing open on a Sunday button. Yeah, yeah, took us a little bit by surprise, but we had booked a Sunday roast, so that was fine. But uh there's not a lot to do, so make sure that you like you can go to a beach that day and stuff like that. But if you want to go shopping or you want to fill up with petrol, you you that's don't do that. Um yeah, expect I would honestly recommend um and I know we still do a Tripiamo driving course. If you are unsure about how to drive on these sort of roads, and seriously, it's not for the faint-hearted. I'll tell you, you need to know what you're doing. Um, and especially if you're used to driving on the other side of the road, or even if you're used to driving on Australia or New Zealand or wherever, honestly, um, it's I think it's very different driving on these sort of islands. It's you need to be really aware of the rules of the road, you need to be aware of kind of just etiquette when it comes to passing places, you need to be very aware of things like the the fact that you could get um you know a lot of livestock on the road, you could get deer in the middle of the road, you could get, you know, a lot of at the minute a lot of say lots of lambs all over the places. So you just need to kind of uh be aware and plan for that. As I say, if you're gonna do this, do not think that you can wing it. Make sure you book those ferries and you book your accommodation. After that, you can do it. You can you then start looking at the the you know things like you know, what day the black house is open, what what restaurants you want to eat at, that sort of thing. Um, but make sure you absolutely don't think I'm just gonna head over to Lewis and Harris and then find accommodation when you get there, because you won't.
SPEAKER_02You absolutely won't probably recommend listening to a very decent podcast, I'd imagine, as well, about some of you visited.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, I think that's it. It's like uh ask somebody who's just recently been and done it and been there and uh and experienced it. And um, so the next episode is is uh because I guess that's we I think we've kind of wrapped up uh Harris and Lewis. If the if there's any questions, just you know, um get into the Facebook group or or send me an email if this is a trip that you're thinking about doing. Um so the next the next episode I'm gonna be talking about. So we left Skye, drove down to Auburn. Um I had originally planned to get the bus from Fort William down to Oban, but then Kim decided she she was gonna come down to Auburn as well. So we did that drive. I stayed in Auburn one night, and then I spent the next uh five nights over in Maul. Now I did all of that and actually came back over from Mall to Auburn and up to Fort William to catch the Caledonia Sea Bowl. That was all done solo and public transport. So I can talk a lot in the next episode all about mall, all about Iona, the places I stayed, how I got around, how I found it in that episode. So that was a solo, that was just me going and doing that. Oh, made a few little mistakes, but yeah, it was really good. Actually, the talk about the public transport, which is particularly what I want to do
Mull And Iona Part Two Preview
SPEAKER_01because we've we're often asked about that. Um so again, met lots of lovely people. Um yeah, it was just it was really, really good. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I absolutely love Scotland. Um, you know, been going since I was knee height to a gross grasshopper, is that the term? Um so feel along a very strong attachment. Um, and I know everybody says their their relations are Scottish, but um my my maiden name was so my my grandparents were from Scotland, yeah. From actually near calendar. So um yes, so it it's always really fun when I'm in Scotland because my surname is my maiden name is a Scottish name, and I see it everywhere, just different spellings, which is always really fun. Yeah, so yeah, I think that was uh that gives everybody an idea of what we did. I'll put in the show notes. Well, thanks for chatting to me about this job.
SPEAKER_02Not a problem.
SPEAKER_01Um, I'm sure I made you jealous, and you'll be wanting to do the trip.
SPEAKER_02Um I'll yeah, jealous about being there, not jealous about the uh the sea travel. You were lucky, you were lucky.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, it was very, very, very smooth. It was very easy. I will put in the show notes, I will put links. Um, hopefully I'll get a YouTube video up, just time-wise at the minute. Um, and then uh I'll put link to some photos, I will put links to the accommodation and some of the restaurants that we ate at as well. Um, and so if you're planning to do do this, it's probably too late for this year. But I mean, maybe September, October you could do. But um, I certainly probably wouldn't. This I think you one thing you're gonna ask, I probably wouldn't want to do Harrison Lewis in the middle of winter. Put it that way. Those roads when the icy air no, big big no from me. Um yeah, so uh probably for next year now if you're planning this trip. Uh so yeah, photos, links, everything will be in the show notes. That's uktravelplanning.com forward slash episode 202. And as I say, part two will be out at the end of June. So tune in for that if the Island of Mull and Island of Iona, which I absolutely love, is on your uh potential future itinerary when you visit Scotland. Anyway, Doug, thanks so much for um chatting with me. You're gonna interview me in a second all about uh Mull and Iona, aren't you?
SPEAKER_02I am, that's to come.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, and uh you'll be arrived in by the time this episode is out, which is on the 26th of May, you will have just arrived in the UK, won't you?
SPEAKER_02I'll have just arrived on um the bank holiday Monday, 25th.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, 25th. So, yeah, so there's lots of stuff coming uh in June uh about all the trips that we're gonna everything that we've got planned. Uh but for this week, it's just uh leaves, I guess, my myself and Doug to say, as always, happy UK. Thank you for tuning in to this week's episode of the UK Travel Planning Podcast. As always, show notes can be found at uktravelplanning.com. If you've enjoyed the show, why not leave us feedback via text or a review on your favourite podcast app? We love to hear from you, and you never know, you may receive a shout out in a future episode. But as always, that just leaves me to say until next week, happy UK travel planning.