UK Travel Planning

Scottish Islands Trip Part 2: Guide to Visiting the Isle of Mull

Tracy Collins Episode 207

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0:00 | 49:18

Puffins that waddle right up to you, dolphins pacing the bow, sea eagles overhead and a sea cave so famous it sparked a Mendelssohn symphony. It all sounds like a once in a lifetime trip. We wanted to make it something you can actually plan, even if you are travelling without a car and juggling real-world ferry times, bus links and unpredictable Scottish weather.

We pick up the journey in Oban and talk through a clear Inner Hebrides itinerary built around public transport: ferry over to the Isle of Mull, bus to Tobermory for a few nights, then a full day boat trip to Lunga for puffins and on to Staffa for Fingal's Cave. Along the way we share the unglamorous details that make or break island travel, like when to arrive as a foot passenger, what layers you genuinely need on the water, how popular tours sell out, and why bringing your own food is non-negotiable on some boat days.

From there we cover the wider Mull experience with a guided wildlife tour for golden eagles and white tailed eagles, then travel across to Fionnphort for a day on Iona. We talk about Iona Abbey, the island's distinctive feel, the Book of Kells connection, and how to book ferries in the right order and handle cancellations when they happen.

The trip finishes with a scenic ride to Fort William and an overnight on the Caledonian Sleeper, turning the journey home into part of the adventure. Subscribe, share with a friend planning a UK trip, and a quick review on your favourite podcast app means the world.

📝 Show Notes - Episode 207

Still planning your UK or Ireland trip?

Rabbie's small-group tours are a brilliant way to see more without the hassle of driving or planning everything yourself. With departures from cities such as Edinburgh, London and Dublin, it's easy to add a multi-day adventure to your itinerary. 

Have a look at their tours and any current offers on their website - Rabbies.com

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Wild Islands Teaser

SPEAKER_02

A colourful harbour, puffins that practically pose for photos, dolphins, eagles, and a cave so extraordinary it inspired Mendelssohn to write the symphony. In this episode, I'm taking you through everything you need to know to plan a Scottish Islands trip to Mole, Steffa, and Iona.

Welcome And Sponsor Message

SPEAKER_00

Welcome to the UK Travel Planning Podcast. Your host is the founder of the UK travel planning website, Tracy Collins. Each week, Tracy shares destination guides, travel tips and itinerary ideas, as well as interviews with a variety of guests who share their knowledge and experience of UK travel to help you plan your perfect UK vacation. Join us as we explore the UK from cosmopolitan cities to quaint villages, from historic castles to beautiful islands, from the picturesque countryside to seaside towns.

SPEAKER_02

Before we get started, we'd like to thank our sponsor, Walks and Devour Tours. If you're planning a trip to London, you'll already know the challenge. There's a lot you want to do and only a limited amount of time to fit it all in. That's where the right tour makes all the difference because you want experiences that are the best use of your time with more access, less waiting, and a deeper sense of the city. That's why we recommend Walks and Devour Tours. They offer walking tours and food tours designed to make your time count, often with early or after hours entry. You'll also be with exceptional local guides who add the stories and context so you leave with a richer understanding of what you're seeing and a trip that feels genuinely memorable. If you're visiting London as a couple with family or you simply prefer a more intimate experience, walks and devour tours also offer private tour options. To learn more, you'll find the link in the show notes. Now let's get into this week's episode. Hi everybody, and welcome to this week's edition of the UK Travel Planner Podcast again. I'm back with Doug.

SPEAKER_03

Hello there!

SPEAKER_02

So this is episode 207, and this is our Scottish Islands or my Scottish Islands uh trip, itinerary and tips, um, part two. So part one was last month, which is episode 202. So if you um haven't heard that episode, I'd pop back in and take a listen to that. Um, in that one, I talk about my trip um up to the islands of Lewis and Harris and Sky, and this is our part two. It feels like we just did that yesterday, darling.

SPEAKER_03

Uh well, that's right, it's still fresh in my mind. It's it's unbelievable.

SPEAKER_02

That's because we did. That's because we recorded that one yesterday. Recorded that one yesterday. So we thought we'd get this one done while it was still fresh in my mind before I um popped down to London for a sort of bit more work and up to um Edinburgh to do some bits and bumps as well.

SPEAKER_03

So all over the place, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Uh I know, I know. So uh yeah, so part one, as I say, that kind of we the last place I was in in part one was um wasn't Uban, wasn't it? So do you want to I I've given Doug some questions, so he's gonna I'm gonna hand over to him.

SPEAKER_03

Okay then. So before we really get started in detail, you better set the scene for us all. What did part two of this Scotland trip actually cover?

SPEAKER_02

Right. Well, it

Route Overview And Solo Travel

SPEAKER_02

takes it picks up where part one left off, which is Oban. Um, so basically from Oban. Now I just want to say this part of the trip, I did this part solo and I did this part purely using public transport because we get asked a lot about that. Um so I felt I wanted to to take that challenge up uh and to try out public transport um and let you know. And also I met quite a lot of actually solo uh women travellers on a long trip as well. And I was kind of asking them how they were finding it and getting on. Um so the full route basically that I did was uh from Oban, ferry to Mull, bus to Tobamori. Um, then I spent a day exploring Tobermore. The next day I took a Staffords boat trip uh to Longa for the puffins. My goodness, that was amazing. And to Staffer uh for Fingles Cave, which I have done before but is worth going back to, absolutely. Uh and then the following day I took a Nature Scotland Mull Nature Explorator. Tuesday I took the bus across Mole via Craigner to um Finneport, uh Finnefort, I've got to say this right. Actually, Finnefort, because I did ask because I was saying Fion Fionnfort, and people were looking at me and say Finnefort, Finnefort. Hopefully I got that right. I was told that I pronounced it really well by a local, so hopefully that's right. To Finnefort. Um, and then on the Wednesday I spent the day in Iona, Thursday, it was the journey back, which was baker basically uh bus and ferry back over to Oban, uh bus to Fort William, and then the Caledonian sleeper, which I know you were very jealous about.

SPEAKER_03

Always, most definitely. Okay,

Oban Logistics And Ferry Tips

SPEAKER_03

so next question is Oban. Using Oban as your starting point, and where you come back to eventually. So vaguely, just in a few words, whereabouts is Oban in relation to Glasgow? Because it's three hours by train from Glasgow.

SPEAKER_02

It is so it's basically a coastal town located in the Argyll and Butte area on the west coast of Scotland, and it's basically called, it's known as the Gateway to the Isles. Um so it was the perfect place to base myself to go over to the Isles. I will say, and I'll probably get shot down by this, but I don't Oban is not somewhere I want to spend a lot of time in. It's great if you're just gonna go over to the islands, but um as a base for one night, but um uh there's not a lot to Oban, basically. I mean it's it's it's a a a port, um, and as I say, it's got all of the obviously all the ferries take you over, but it's not it's not the most charming of Scottish towns, I will say. But again, I'll probably get shot for that.

SPEAKER_03

The train station is right next to the port as well, so right next to the the port where you catch the ferry is from, isn't it? So it's literally slap bang next to it.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, it's perfect actually in terms of that because the train station is and the buses, the buses stop there as well. So it's actually really central hope. So you've got the ferry, you've got the bus, you've got the um train. So I basically uh because I drove down from Sky uh down to Oban and then stayed in Oban that night, just overnight. So there's plenty of places to eat. If you like seafood, which I don't particularly, but I know a lot of people um do enjoy stopping off in Oban because they they enjoy this the seafood, and there's some nice restaurants where you get a good view um it's sunset. Um and that I kind of guess maybe that main little bit of area is is okay. You've got quite a few shops, and there's lots of places to eat. Um, so it's a you know, and there's lots of uh shops to go in if you want to buy some souvenirs. Um, but basically it is just that kind of gateway to get you over to the island.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, so how often, how early do you have to be there? Because you were a foot passenger, so how soon before departure do you have to be there for that? It's usually about 30 minutes for an hour, isn't it? 45.

SPEAKER_02

I think it's about 45 minutes, yeah. I f I mean I was there quite early. I just went, I just walked across from the hotel over to the actual uh ferry and then uh just waited. I actually just asked where you could buy tickets, and people are buying tickets actually on the days foot passengers. Um able to do that. I would you would not have been able to do that for a car, I'm fairly sure about. And there were some changes. I know that some of the one of the ferries that day was actually cancelled because there have been some issues with the ferries going over tomorrow. Yeah, um, but but I'd already purchased mine. It wasn't expensive, it's like £4.80. Um purchased mine a a few months ago. So I got there, just sat down and hung around and waited. Um, and then they they just kind of tell you where you need to go to get to the ferry because it's different ferries leaving at different islands from that point. Oh fun.

SPEAKER_03

And what about clothes-wise? I mean you've got to take lots of you know, expect the unexpected weather-wise there.

SPEAKER_02

So I suppose you've got coats and scarves and raincoats and well I've got my I've got a coat that's uh like a puffer jacket with a ra uh uh waterproof jacket over the top, which I did need. I had a scarf, hat. I needed all of this. I have to say it was chilly. Um and you know, it is it is Scotland, it's uh Western Islands of Scotland. It's it's chilly most of the year round, I have to say. And it was it was it was pretty cold. Um, there was a pretty uh strong breeze. But um, I mean it's sunny, so the weather was good, but it was pretty chilly. So just having the layers, I really needed the layers and comfortable shoes to walk in. Um that was important. But uh bearing in mind it was just me, I didn't have a lot of luggage, I just had one pull-along bag and a pen and a small um day pack. Um, but yeah, you just need to make sure that you if you if you're traveling that way. And I met, as I say, a lot of other women who are travelling solo, and most of them just had like a pull-along bag or a or a backpack, depending on on their age, I guess. I think as we get older, the thought of having a big backpack does not appeal to me.

SPEAKER_03

No, make perfect sense.

Public Transport On Mull

SPEAKER_03

So you you're doing this with public transport, so you didn't have a car, so is more actually achievable without a car, do you think?

SPEAKER_02

Well, it depends on your itinerary, I think. Now I found it fairly straightforward because I only had two bases and I only so basically what I did is I I took the ferry over to Craignur, and then uh there was actually a bus wait in there uh to Tobamori, so jumped on the bus, um, which was very easy. And then um the same getting to actually Iona, I took a bus from Tobamory to Tra Craignur again. I did have a couple of hours wait, which was a bit of a pain, um, to then get to um to uh Fionne Fort. There's not a Finnefort, I still can't say it right, Finnafort, uh, because there's not a lot of buses. Now I did talk to another girl who was kind of travelling, and she said she because I'd booked some things on my free days, like some tours and things, she was trying to get to some other parts of the island by public transport and it it was quite difficult. So she was actually um hitchhiking. She's from Austria, so she was finding hitchhiking work, plenty of people were picking her up and and and dropping her off. I think she went to one of the um the the beach areas and she she could get there but not back. I think there weren't many buses. Um so you do have to work that out if you want to just take the buses, you have to kind of think where your accommodation is and think plan how you're gonna get from A to B.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, so there's a bus town table there. Do you could you use cash or was it cards, or could you how do you pay for the buses when you were there?

SPEAKER_02

Um either they're they take uh you can use uh tap or you can pay cash. Now I will say at the moment, um I did want to share this, it's just a thing that's been just introduced this year. Um, is that it's a two-pound deal um on bus services in some parts of Scotland. So Western Isles, Orkney, Shetland, Highland, Murray, Argyll. Um but you have to check because that started various days, it's supposed to last for about 12 months, I believe. But that was brilliant. So all of the buses, including the bus that I took from Urban Up to Fort Will, was two quid, which is great. So that made things really good and really um really cheap, considering the price of petrol at the minute, it was uh it was really good. Um so yeah, I mean, and the buses ran on schedule. I met loads of locals who were taking the buses who really had a good chat too. Um, the bus drivers were fantastic, they were all really friendly, helped put my because I just had to pull a long bag, put it in the kind of like the storage area on the bus. Um, really good. Had a had a lovely chat uh with with a few of the uh few of the drivers uh about the the the runs because some of those I mean the the run from Craigner to uh uh Finnefort is just beautiful, absolutely beautiful. I mean the run from Fin uh up from Craigner up to Tobinwury, you've got the coast, but the part of mall that you go through to go to Finnefort was just stunning. So I've got some video that I will actually put that together as well, um, because it it was amazing, it really was.

SPEAKER_03

So it's quite achievable without a car, then really it is perfectly achievable, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, absolutely. If you want to book stuff, now I did book stuff, and I need to say that I did I I'd used Tobamori as a base for three nights because I was taken obviously the day I arrived, and then the second day I took a Staffer uh boat tour, which I've done previously. I took a one-day tour out of um which was a Mull Iona and Staffer tour a couple of years ago, and I I just loved Iona so much I wanted to go back. Um, so this time I was determined I was gonna have some more extra time in Tobamori. So I knew that the Stafford tours had a boat to Lunga, which I hadn't been to, to see the puffins, which I was very excited about, and also to go to Staffer again. So I thought, well, I'll go and check that out. And I was really lucky because there'd be an upgrade in the steps, and they literally just opened the day before that I took the boat. So previously that they hadn't been able to land, yeah. So they landed, it was and they've done a really good job, really, really good job. Um, but we can talk a little bit about Tobamori, maybe, and then a little bit about those different tours as well.

Tobermory Base And Stays

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, so Tobermore is quite well known for people of my age because there's a children's programme in the UK uh about Tobamori.

SPEAKER_02

I yeah, I never watched it. It's called Ballomori, isn't it?

SPEAKER_03

Ballomory, that's right. Ballomori. With the coloured houses, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, which of course they they have. It's very famous for beautiful, beautiful coloured houses. Uh and in its um so really nice little place to I stayed there three nights, found it really nice. I stayed at the Tobamori Inn. I had the cutest tiny little room, but it was really cute. Um, because it was just me and it was so it was really good, and that included a decent breakfast, so that was really good as well. Um, so you know, once I got off the bus, it was a two-minute walk to the hotel. Um, and then there's shops, there's a fish and ship shop, there's a co-op, so you can go and stock up, which I did. Um, you know, uh so yeah, really, really good. The only thing that that I kind of missed at the hotel was was the Wi-Fi, didn't really work in my room, but they said they were fixing that because they know it's an issue and they're gonna get a booster. So um so it did cost me a little bit extra because I kept running out of data. Um, but otherwise it was it was really good. Lovely staff, very friendly. And the harbour area's nice to is that where the restaurants are and cafes and things or yeah, restaurants, cafes, some lovely little shops to pop in and and spend your money at to buy lovely souvenirs, and yeah, it was really nice. I actually found I found three nights was perfect because I was wondering if it was going to be too much, but because I I got there on the Saturday and I had a full day out on the Sunday and a full day out on the Monday, it meant after the tours or boat trips, I had kind of because it's light nights because this is me that I did this early May. Um that I could just then kind of go and have a wander, go and get some fish and chips, just sit and you know, enjoy the sunset, enjoy the views. It was just lovely. So um, yeah, it was a nice, nice day because the tours kind of started at about between half past nine and ten.

SPEAKER_03

So about two nights there is probably about about right, do you think two or three nights?

SPEAKER_02

Uh three nights, I would say. It depends what you're gonna do. I mean, if you it's because I knew that I was taking the two tours, so that was gonna take two full days up. So I needed to be based there, really, to be picked up for those tours. So so that's what I did. Um, so a lot of tours will pick up from the main park car park in Tobamori itself. Uh and there is a car park there, so um yeah, yeah, parking in actually the front harbour area could be a bit tricky, I think, but um there's certainly an area where you could park uh you know, beside just not too far, like basically as you come into the town itself.

SPEAKER_03

Oh, sounds good. So then then so next let's tell me about the the Staffa tours, the the boat trip to Lunga and Staffer.

Lunga Puffins Boat Trip

SPEAKER_03

Not sure I would have uh is that a bit choppy that one is it or no?

SPEAKER_02

It was beautiful again, very, very calm. Yeah, pretty calm. Uh it it went kind of round Moole and across to uh Lunga and then onto Staffer. So there's a couple of things I will say, don't make this this mistake. One is make sure you take plenty of food because I rushing around as always, I'd probably kind of missed the thing where it said bring your own food on lunch because I'd done the trip last year and we'd actually gone to Iona and there was a cafe. Well, there is no way at all to get food on Steffa or on Lunger. So if you don't take any food, you're not gonna eat. Um so luckily I did have some um some peanuts and a drink in my bag. I take the drink and I had some peanuts, so that kept me going all day. But obviously, um, yeah, you know, you need to make sure that you you take food, make sure that you um wrap up because it was quite breezy in terms of just being moving around on the boat. So I had a hat on, I had a scarf on, um, I was really wrapped up. Um, also just to say that you just do have to have a level of fitness because getting off that boat at longer and then getting off across that beach and through across the rocks, they do help you, but then you've got quite a steep climb to get up to where the the puffins were. Um, and so you know you do have to be careful. Um, and a lot of people went further than the puffins. I was kind of happy with that. I got up to where I was, but what I did before the boat picked us up, I think we got dropped off for two hours, is I actually went down the steep part before everybody else descended because I thought I don't want the pressure of lots of people behind me trying to get down this kind of steep slope. So I did it quite slowly on my own, and then I kind of sat on this rock and then just enjoyed the view. I've got again some beautiful video and pictures of that before kind of the hordes descended. I mean, not hordes, there's not a lot of people on the boat, not massive, but and then I kind of got across this rocky boat and then onto the boat, so because it was quite it was quite rocky. Um it staffer's easier. I would just say staffer is easier because they've just put steps in, um, so it's far easier to get around um staffer uh than Lunger was a little bit more, you needed a little bit more level of fitness.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, and these tours are incredibly popular. So, how soon, you know, when did you book this? Was it quite a while back or was it quite recently? Because I imagine they do sell out because the it's not going to be an unlimited number of places on the boats.

SPEAKER_02

No, no, and the boat the boat was full. Oh the boat was absolutely full. I booked it in January. So if you want to do this, these these tours, you definitely need to get them uh booked, um, especially in peak season, especially at the minute, because like it's puffins. Everybody wants to go and see puffins, don't they? Of course. And the puffins are amazing, so um, yeah, so it the it prepares well for the fact that you're crossing the sea, so if you get seasick, you may need to be careful with that. Um that's why I was. Yeah, I know that's just why you wouldn't do it. But we saw seals as we crossed, we saw dolphins. I've got some amazing footage of the dolphins were playing with the boat, they were following us along. Um I got as much footage as I could, but everybody kind of came over to my side of the boat to get these pictures of these dolphins, and it was a bit like oh, everybody was kind of vying. Uh, but it was just lovely and be in the moment and just enjoy and see them. And the puffins were just fantastic. First time I've seen puffins, they're so cute, they're so little, they love humans being around because they know that when the human beings are there when we are there, that the big um the skewer birds and the birds that are uh will prey on them will not come because they stay away when when people are around. So the once they got there, there was just hundreds of puffins, and they were they were so cute and so photogenic and so happy to see you. You could see it, it was it was absolutely lovely. So they were showing off because they're very, very cute. So I was there at the nesting part, so they're nesting, they're paired off. Um I don't know if they started to to actually lay any eggs yet, but it's that early in the season. So I I would imagine in a few months you're gonna get there, and you're gonna see the little baby puffins that are on the corner. Uh puffing lings or something, but anyway, they'll be uh very cute, very, very, very cute. Um two hours on there puffing it. I don't know, but they've just very, very cute.

SPEAKER_03

Were they more cute than the penguins you saw in Antarctica earlier this year?

SPEAKER_02

Uh that was the end of last year, yeah. But yeah, yeah. Um yeah, they're small, they're small. Yeah, I don't know how to I don't know. Yes, they are. They are yeah, and it's really funny because some people came over on a boat and they're climbing up and I went, There's loads of penguins up there, and they went, Really? And I went, No, no, I meant puffings. I've got penguins on the brain.

SPEAKER_03

You are well then. Tell me all about the famous Fingles Cave.

Staffa And Fingal’s Cave

SPEAKER_03

I know you've been before. Um, how did this time compare to that time?

SPEAKER_02

Well, last time I went, it was it was blowing a gale, and um I I felt it was a little bit on the unsafe side go going into the actual cave because it's literally a drop and you've got the sea, and it was a bit wild that day and really windy and rainy. This day was beautiful, beautiful weather, no breeze whatsoever. So I did I did go into a little bit of the cave. I didn't go all the way in because again I just get a little bit mm-hmm. Uh but loads of everybody else was. It takes you uh maybe 15 minutes or so to to walk along the side to actually get around to where the cave is, and then I just sat and enjoyed the view. Um, so it's basalt columns, a bit so basically like the um Giants Causeway in New Orleans. So um stunning, stunningly beautiful. Um, and uh obviously inspired a uh a symphony by uh Mendelssohn, exactly. Um so yeah, just lovely. Um, I think we had an hour there, which was enough time. I have already been on, so you can you kind of get a choice, you can go um along to the cave, or you can continue up and then walk onto the island itself. But because I've been on Stafford before, I wasn't that bothered. I was more at that point and just wanting to see um Fingles Cave again. So I got some fantastic videos and fantastic pictures. Um that was beautiful. Then when we got on the boat, we kind of came round so we could see the cave from the sea as well, which was just amazing. Um yeah, so it was just a really it was actually a really, really good day, and then uh we headed back to to Bomori. So that was a full day out. I think we left at half past nine and got back about half past four, something like that. Um yeah, so so take food, take drink, make sure you've got enough clothes to protect yourself from the elements, uh, raincoat, that sort of thing. Make sure your shoes, I was probably uh there was a couple of us with trainers on, um, but I've got very, very good trainers, but most people had walking boots on.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, yeah. So I imagine there's some bird watches, because that's leads into my next question, really. There's the the the nature around there, I suppose, is absolutely fantastic. You got the uh the more natured exploratory that you did as well. Yeah, tell me about that one.

SPEAKER_02

Uh

Mull Wildlife Tour And Eagles

SPEAKER_02

yeah, so again I booked that a few months ago, and that um so we went out with Clay. So hi Clay, he was brilliant, uh very, very enthusiastic. And we spent a day um basically travelling. I think we left at 10, got back maybe after five ish, um, and went all around the island. Uh trying to find otters. Unfortunately, we didn't see otters, but we saw lots of eagles, and Clay said it was like an eagle day, we just saw So a lot of lot now I forgive me if you're a Twitcher and you know all about the birds because I am not. I think I was the only one on the show that wasn't. Um, but I did get swept up by the enthusiasm. Um so we saw golden eagles, we saw um a lot of white-tailed eagles, so sea eagles. Um they're amazing. So that was fantastic. Uh, and then we did see another, I can't remember, there was a hen harrier uh as well. We saw just lots and lots of uh uh birds and just travelled around the island and saw lots of different parts of the island as well, which was lovely because again, public transport, I didn't have the ability really to go and explore some of those other parts of the island. I guess there might have been buses, but not very often, I guess, to some of these kind of more remoter parts. But uh yeah.

SPEAKER_03

So though the the golden eagle and the white-tailed eagles, how close did you actually get to them? Or were they quite a distance in the sky, or were they on rocks or were they landed or a bit of both?

SPEAKER_02

Uh well the golden eagles were quite far in the distance. We did see them in the sky, but the white-tailed eagle we saw um uh a couple of times on the beach. Um so that was really good. So I've got some great photos of them and checking them out. Uh I would have loved to see that.

SPEAKER_04

Yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, it was really cool. And I've actually I'm actually following on there's a um there's a white-tailed eagle cam. I think it's for one of the other islands that I've been following, and they've got two two chicks have just hatched up this week. So I've been following that. Actually, I'll put a link in the show notes because it's really it's been really cool watching these two this this um mum and dad uh eagles trying to sort these two chicks out. We keep fighting with each other. It's really quite like, oh dear. Um yeah, so it was really good. I did enjoy it. And and what was really good because I didn't have again, I forgot to bring food. So, you know, read the instructions, people. Don't do what I do and not bring. But luckily, I still had some nuts in my bag, so um that kept me going. Um, but yeah, and again, uh some people well lot most of the people had their own binoculars, but that they lent me a couple uh they had plenty of binoculars in the in the uh in the little money bus. So I I think Clay gave me a pair early on, and they also had a scope, so um we took some Clay would sort of set the scope up and and focus on a on a bird or whatever, and then we could all look through the scope, which is really, really cool.

SPEAKER_03

Oh fantastic.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, yeah.

SPEAKER_03

And you saw some more dolphins on that tours as well, did you?

SPEAKER_02

No, not on that tour, it was just on the uh just the boat tour, yeah.

SPEAKER_03

Because that this was we did we do get kind of go like round um some of the inlets and stuff, but we didn't we didn't see it mainly because we're looking for otters and didn't see any, which was a little disappointing, but you know but it was but the beauty being on these guided tours, you actually have an expert to sort of point things out to which you'd probably not have seen if you're there on your own.

SPEAKER_02

No, no, I would I wouldn't have had a clue. I w I literally wouldn't have had a clue. Um and he was sort of telling us this bird, that bird, and and so getting the scope and going, Oh, this one's that, this one's the and a little bit of like you know, if they were just stopping off on the way to Iceland or whatever they were doing. So that was really it was interesting. And I say we had a lot of twitchers on the tour who were um may get may get into it. Um so you know, that it was perfect for them. Um but it was an interesting kind of introduction to me because of not being a not being a an avid bird watcher. I mean, interesting. So but it was really good because I say you've got to I learnt a lot that I didn't know about so some of the the eagles and stuff.

SPEAKER_03

As you say, that's the beauty of a tour, you sort of maximise your experience really, don't you, if you're on a tour.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, and you know what, like independent like I probably would have you know walked past some of these birds and not even thought twice and not think, oh actually that's what it is, you know. Um so so it was really good. Yeah, no, I enjoyed it. I enjoyed both the tours, the boat tour and the uh driving tour on the island, yeah.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, so

To Fionnphort Plus Food Planning

SPEAKER_03

you get back there and then the following day you leave in Turbomori. Is that right? And you're going back to Fionn Fort. I've probably said it wrong because I've not been.

SPEAKER_02

Finnafort, yeah. Finnafort, yeah. So I got the uh bus basic. So uh I checked out at checkout by uh no by ten, and the bus wasn't until half past eleven, so that was a bit of a pain. Um so I just kind of because obviously I have my luggage, so I could probably have left them in the hotel, but I just went and sat because it was a lovely day actually, so I just sat and enjoyed just and then I was talking to a lovely local lady um who was taking the the bus to Craig Newer as well, so I was having a good chat with her. Oh, that's nice. Um yeah, and then uh we went took the boat the bus to Craig uh Craigneur from from uh Tobamori first. Then again, I had a bit of a wait. I think I had about two hours there. Again, that was a bit of a pain. So the the don't I know you'd think they'd marry up a bit better, but they didn't.

SPEAKER_03

How long was the bus journey from to Craig?

SPEAKER_02

Uh good question. Um maybe an hour. I'm sure I shouldn't remember. Um it was definitely over an hour from Craigner to Finneford. So a couple of hours all in total, but would took longer because I had to hang around.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, um breaking the journey, wasn't they, on that day, I guess.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, I was kind of like I couldn't understand why the but you see the buses are done to meet the ferries so that people get but I just didn't understand why I guess because that was people getting on the ferry, so then when people came back over on the ferry, then they were taking people to Finnefort or back to Turnori. So but if you're trying to get between one and the other, you have to kind of wait. So it was a two-hour wait.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah. Uh I guess that's the pace of life on those islands, though, is it? It's sort of nothing's rushed and everything's sort of low-key.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, I mean it was fine. It was fine. There's a few uh places that you can go and have something to eat, um eat there if you want. Um, it was fine.

SPEAKER_03

Presumably on the from the bus when you were sitting chatting, but you're looking out through the windows, there's plenty to see.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Because the look the lady had said, Oh, sit on this side of the bus, you'll get better views. On the left hand side as you're going from um Tobamori to to Craigneur. And then obviously that that that the the the bus trip that really blew my mind was that one from Craigner to Finnefort because there's parts of that you're just like, Wow, this is really that good. So, so pretty, so pretty. Yeah, really beautiful. Beautiful drive.

SPEAKER_03

Now you stayed in Stafford House, and that's the bed and breakfast. Um tell me about that. Was that okay? Oh, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

So big shout out to to Janice and Chris who will run that. Yeah, lovely place to stay, really lovely. I had my uh lovely room and ensuite um and a lovely welcome from Chris, because Janice uh was working over on the island. Um welcome with a cup of tea, which is always always uh well received. Um well, you weren't there. Uh I did make a bit of a bit of a mistake though, because I uh and I'm sure Janice and Chris had had sent me this information, but again, when you're dealing with millions of things, it things slip by the by. Um I'm I'm 100% sure they told me. Uh, is that I did I should have made a booking for in the pub for uh dinner that night, uh, but I didn't. Uh and I actually went to the pub and they were fully booked. Uh so I thought, oh, sorry, I'll make a I'll make a booking for the next night, not thinking anything, but I just thought I'll I'll do that tomorrow, make the booking for the next night. But I came back and Chris was like, Oh, have you had anything to eat? I said, Oh, sorry, I'd actually eaten something while I was waiting for the buses at Craigner. So it was absolutely fine. So I just had tea and biscuits, um, which was fine. And then, yeah, then so the next day at breakfast, this kind of wanna say I'd happened to mention to another couple that we're sitting at breakfast with that was probably gonna go to the pub that night, and they went, It's not open tonight. And I went, Oh, thank you for because yeah, so if I'd so what I did was I ate on Iona, I made sure in fact I didn't, I ate at the sh the the there's like a seafood shack as you come across back on I could I had had tea and cake in in on Iona, and you can have food in Iona because there's this place to eat, but I waited until I got the ferry back and I had something at this kind of seafood little shack that that um had scampion chips, but that wasn't open the first night. I didn't go out until half past six to look for food and buy everything. That point everything was shut in half past six. So um, yeah, so just do plan that ahead, uh do plan ahead if you you you know for your food. There is a uh there is a a shop so you could go and but again I went out too late, so everything was shut. Um, I had some little snacks. Yeah, I had some snacks and stuff with me, but yeah, do do make sure you've got bits and bobs with you.

SPEAKER_03

Um

Iona Day Trip And Abbey

SPEAKER_03

so okay, so describe your day on Iona then. So tell me a bit more about that.

SPEAKER_02

Uh well, so I took the ferry, so I hadn't booked that because that's that's you just literally there's there's a timetable for the ferry. So I I went over um on quite later that the later than I planned because something had come up we we had to have a chat, remember? So I went over eleven, about eleven-ish. So I just walked down, sort of two, three-minute walk from uh Stafford House from the BB, and then um just bought my ticket, which I don't think it was very much, maybe seven pounds. I can't remember, something like seven pound uh return across to Iona. Uh and then just queued up and waited. It's just well, there are big there are cars that go, but I have a feeling they're just cars for locals on the island. I don't know that visitors can take cars over. I'm fairly sure not. I think it's just for um actually people who live on Iona. So mainly foot passengers. So it's a 10-minute trip, 10 minute across.

SPEAKER_03

Was that flat? Yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Was that yeah, yeah, absolutely flat and beautiful. Um again, lovely sunny day. So a bit chilly but sunny. So and the sea, it's like the Caribbean when you get over there. Honestly, the sea is that cut beautiful colour blue, beautiful sandy beach. Um so yeah, so just basically uh I know you're gonna ask what I did in Iona. I just explored, walked around, went into the shops, went to uh went into the Abbey, of course. Explored the Abbey. Um now I'm hoping I'm gonna get um Janice to come on and chat a little bit about Iona because she uh she knows a lot about it. Um so uh yeah, but I I I it really enjoyed it. Really enjoyed having a having a walk around. Then of course, um when you know we were in Dublin um and we saw the Book of Kells.

SPEAKER_03

Yes.

SPEAKER_02

And actually the Book of Kells was created on Iona.

SPEAKER_03

Iona, of course.

SPEAKER_02

It was moved, yeah, it was moved because of the Viking raids. Yeah. So they were concerned that the because the Vikings kept coming over and pinching things and doing you know killing people, I think. Um so they they just were like, oh, let's move that sort of stuff off the island so that it doesn't get nicked. Um so the book of Kells really should be the book of Iona, but anyway, it's anonymous.

SPEAKER_03

That's true, that's true. Yeah. Well it's it sounds like fun and games. I mean, the Did Iona feel different to any of the other islands, or do they all look or feel the same when you're there? Or they all got their own sort of individual sort of characteristics and personality, if you like?

SPEAKER_02

Oh yeah, all the islands are very different. Every single island I uh I've been to in Scotland is different, it's got a different feel, even different geography. It's amazing. But Iona's just special. I can't, I don't know why I have that feeling on Iona, but there's just something very um uh lovely about Iona, something that just feels very special about the island. Um so and and I know it's um there's a lot of uh religious connections with Iona, I'm not particularly religious, but um it is just I don't know, it's just a lovely, lovely place, very interesting. Um, you know, go and visit the Abbey. It is it's um English Heritage, um, and because we are members of Historic Scotland, yeah, and we've been members of Historic Scotland for a number of years, we get free entry into English Heritage. So that was that was really good.

SPEAKER_03

Um if you can guarantee the uh the the flat sea crossings, I'll I'll come with you next time.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, because it's my second time over to uh on to Iona um and and second time visiting uh the abbey uh and just enjoying the island. Um it was a bit busier this time. Uh I think actually interestingly, it was it's a similar-ish time of yeah, but there was definitely more again the weather was good, so I guess people are kind of going, well, you know what? It's a beautiful day, head over to Iona. Um so we did

Booking Order And Ferry Reliability

SPEAKER_02

that, yeah.

SPEAKER_03

So from an ordering point of view, did you book the uh any of the ferries before accommodation or was it accommodation first and then ferries? How did you plan it out?

SPEAKER_02

Ferries first, ferries first, on all of this was ferries first and then accommodation. Um I kind of looked, I know when we talked about Lewis and Harris, I did that, looked at and and when I booked it, that you know the first place was stayed at in Lewis. The the person said, Oh, you make sure you booked your ferry because don't leave that. Um and there were cancellations on the ferry. Now that'll affect you more if you're a if you've got a car. And I know on the Saturday when I went over, I was a foot passenger, uh, there was a cancellation because I was talking to some people on the um the nature tour on the Monday, and they had had a cat their their their ferry cancelled, so they had driven somewhere else and got a ferry over. So uh so they had a plan B because it had happened to them before, but I think there's a lot of disquiet on the islands because some of these ferries are getting cancelled, so it is having reliability issues, I think.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

And it's difficult for people on the island. I mean, you know, people got it, they go they go backwards and forwards for you know, maybe a doctor's appointment, dentist appointment, whatever, the hospital, whatever they're going over on the mainland for, and uh yeah, so um I think it's it and also having an impact on tourism. So um uh it you know, it was easier for me because I was foot passenger, so it is easier.

SPEAKER_03

Okay,

Back Via Fort William And Sleeper

SPEAKER_03

so let's talk about your journey back from there. Um well, you came back via Fort William. I do know that one. So just tell me about getting back from back to Fort William.

SPEAKER_02

Right, so um I had a lovely breakfast at uh Stafford House, could I see a Chris? Uh so pen breakfast, that's always the advantage because you get a nice breakfast which sets you up for the day. That's how I always think of it. Um and then I took the um bus, so I walked down, so it's about 9:30 bus. Um big shout out to Barry, uh Richard from South Africa, who was the driver on on that uh yeah, the uh West Coast Motors. Uh so we went from uh Footer Fort to Craig Neur uh on that trip to get two pounds. Wow. Um and then yeah, unfortunately had a couple of no, actually, this this is I had potentially a couple of hours wait because I had booked a later ferry because the it it seemed that the buses kind of married up with the ferries, but a bit just as in you got there 10 minutes before the ferry left, which I I I guess was tight, so I just was a bit unsure about whether we would make it. So I didn't book like the first ferry of the day, I booked the second ferry. So I would have had a couple of hour wait, but as I arrived, I went in the ticket office because I saw the ferry hadn't left, and I said to them, I've actually got a ticket for the later ferry. Can I take this one that's in? And she said, Are you a foot passenger? And I said, Yes, and she said, Absolutely no problem. So I just got on the earlier ferry. Though the disadvantage, in a way, is that it meant that I had longer an Oban. Um, so I because that's an hour that crossing. So I think I got in about just about one o'clock, and the bus wasn't until 3:34. Um, so I knew I was gonna have a couple a few hours, maybe it was 12, actually, 11 until 12. Um, and so I had already checked out an Oban when I'd been staying there. That was the left luggage place next to the hotel I stayed at. So I went over and just paid five pounds and left my luggage there for a few hours. So it meant that I could yeah, I could go and I went and had something to eat. I had a jacket potato, um, I went to the Weatherspoons, had a jacket potato, had a drink. It was like seven quid, so that was absolutely perfect. So I knew I wouldn't be then worried when I got the Caledonian sleepbell later that day. And then um there was a couple of options for buses because I know again I've been asked because um and actually I need to get back to somebody because we did a video video consult and they're planning this route from Fort William, and I said I'll get back to you after I've done it, um, because I can tell you exactly how it goes. So it was really good. So now there are a couple of options for that route. There's a West Coast Motors bus, or there is an Ember bus. So the Ember buses I think are fairly newish and they're they're kind of growing all over Scotland. And um, so I chose the Ember bus because it was earlier, I think it was 25 to 4 as opposed to West Coast Motors, which was at 4, both two pound because they're in that kind of zone for that special at the moment. Um, fantastic. The driver, I wish I could remember his name. I was trying to think of it. Oh, and he was just fabulous. What a lovely, lovely, lovely guy. And just saying how much the company are amazing, Ember is amazing, like uh the they the bus was fantastic it was fabulous. It was like honestly space age, the front, like all his gear that he had for the route, just fantastic. Um, so I just popped online and had because there's you could scan a QR code at the bus stop and just bought the ticket for two pounds. So it got on and um drove up to Fort William, beautiful drive, as I say, the driver, which really annoyed me because I can't remember his name, I should have written it down. Um, he was just amazing, such a lovely, lovely, lovely guy. So big shout out to Ember and shout out to the driver that took that took us from um Auburn to Fort William. Um on I'm trying to think the day now, was it 7th of May? Yes.

SPEAKER_03

So it was just the bus goes along the coastal road, doesn't it? Yeah, which I've done before. Here you go past um can't remember the name of the place.

SPEAKER_02

Castle Stalker.

SPEAKER_03

Castle Stalker.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, you're gonna mention that one, yeah. Uh so yeah, and he was kind of pointing stuff out, and yeah, he was he was fantastic. So that was a really lovely trip.

SPEAKER_03

And Port of Paine, that was your place, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

Oh yeah, yeah. So yeah, it was really good. So and then I got into um Fort William about it was five, and the the sleeper was leaving at 10 to 8. So I had a couple of hours, and I could have gone because it they dropped you off right beside the Morrisons, and I was like, Do I want to go to Morrisons? And I could have had something to eat and drink, and I thought, no, you know what? I've had food, so I've fine. So I just kind of sat and waited for the sleeper.

SPEAKER_03

If anybody doesn't know, the Morrisons is a supermarket and it's right next door to this train station.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, so you I could have gone in there, but I did have my luggage and uh there's no nowhere to leave it, I don't think at Fort William. And I just thought, oh, you know what, I'm not too bothered.

SPEAKER_03

No, there's a few places nearby, but uh not at the station anywhere, unfortunately.

SPEAKER_02

No, so I just kind of sat waiting for my train reading my book.

SPEAKER_03

And then you have the lovely uh Caledonian sleeper, that's the uh the Highlander, which is heading southbound down to London Houston. But you actually got off at Birmingham International, which is a new stop on that line.

SPEAKER_02

Uh quite a few people got off there actually. So that was really good. So that was supposed to be at 20 past six, but we're late by about about an hour-ish. I think we've got off.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, that's engineering works or so.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, I didn't think. Yeah, I know. The only thing was I do, you know, when we booked previously, we've booked the club room, which I always really like. This time I just booked the classic because there wasn't any club rooms left. Uh so that's without a toilet, and it's a bit smaller, but it's you know what? I I it was a very short trip. So uh but it was again, it was coming. I always sleep because everybody was do you sleep? Yes, I do sleep. I uh I had I enjoyed the scenery going across what Ranak Moore took some lovely videos, the sun was going down, and then just settled myself in and literally um slept, woke up about half past five-ish, because I knew I had to potentially get off the train at 10 past uh six, but we've got a little bit of extra time. Yeah, it was fine. Yeah, it was absolutely fine. Um, you know, I I if my preference is the club room because you get more space and you've got a toilet and a shower in there, but you know, the classic is absolutely fine.

SPEAKER_03

It is well, it sounded like you had a fantastic trip there. So putting it all together, yeah.

Highlights Packing Cash And Timing

SPEAKER_03

You know, we I've already asked you about what which you book first, but what was the highlight of that trip?

SPEAKER_02

This part of the trip or this part of the trip, yeah.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah, what would you say?

SPEAKER_02

Um I think I enjoyed seeing the puffins probably a longer. I think that that was just so special um because I'd not seen them before, and they're just they are literally they are just so cute. I don't want to say that people don't know. Well, actually, they are really, really cute. Um, and they just kind of perform for the camera as well. They're just they're they're they're beautiful, so I love seeing the puffins. Yeah, that was really, really good. So obviously that's kind of the the kind of May to July-ish time for that.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, so anybody looking to do this similar trip, is there any one tip or one, you know, or maybe one or two tips you'd actually give to anybody looking at this? You know, as a future.

SPEAKER_02

I'll just put it to yeah, yeah. I think it's just planning. Like, if you're gonna do it on your own, you're gonna do it by public transport, is kind of working that out where you know, where you're gonna base yourself. So I had three nights in Tobamory, two in Finifort, and actually that worked out well. Just work out how you're gonna get from A to B. So have a look at the buses. They do, you might may have a little bit of time and you've got to wait. Um, don't overburden yourself with too much luggage, but make sure you do think about what your clothes and what you're gonna wear. Do take advantage when you see something open to go and get food. I actually was at the fish and chip shop on, I think it was a Sunday night, um, and it's it closed at 8. And the amount of people that came to that fish and ship shop at 5 past eight, 10 past eight, uh, and they were disappointed because said no we're short. Um, so yeah, make sure you consider eating options. It's really, really, really important.

SPEAKER_03

Okay, so would you recommend taking some cash with you as well? Do you think that's a good idea or not necessary?

SPEAKER_02

Uh well, I'm actually gonna say because I normally don't carry cash, but because I knew I was going up to kind of the islands and the islands, um, I did have some cash on me. I had actually uh £40 in cash. And interestingly, the fish and chip shop only took cash. Well, so I'm glad I had cash. Um and I did use cash on the bus, but I didn't need to. I could have just used my card.

SPEAKER_04

Yeah, yeah.

SPEAKER_02

But I used it, honestly, I used it for fish and chips. I got fish and chips one night and I think I got chips another night. Um uh uh but everything else you could just use your card. But it yes, it's useful to have, and I always say that have have 50 quid in cash, have some money in cash because um you never know, like that that experience I needed it. Um if you want to tip, obviously, if you've been out on a on a tour, if you want to tip your guide, then um you know have a little bit of cash. Yeah, um, but yeah, so I did use it, used it for the fish and chip shop. Otherwise, I wouldn't have been able to get any fish and chips, which I've been would have been sad about. Now I've said because people are gonna be going, you said you don't like seafood. And then he said you went to the fish and chip shop. So I will just say uh I don't generally like fish, but I don't mind cod. And they had cod and I like scampi. So it's just fishy fish I don't like. So just to clear, in case it sounds a bit contradictory. Um but yeah, very nice. But but again, I think plan plan everything, plan the essentials, so plan the the the public transport, plan the ferry, plan the accommodation, and plan where you're gonna eat, and then book your churs. So I kind of did that. I I I did the ferries, I looked at accommodation, I planned the churs that I wanted. Um, and the last thing that I thought about was the food, which is what caught me out a little bit, but yeah, that'd have been different if I'd been with you. Oh, yeah, you would have sorted all the food bit out, whereas I just was like, oh, go up and co-op was fine. And also because I included breakfast on everything as well. So I had breakfast every morning in all Texas, so that's good. Um all day. Yeah, so it's really good. The entire trip was excellent, it was really, really good. Loved it. Um, so you've got part one, which was last month, and this is uh part two. Um, if you have any questions, if you're planning to visit any of these islands off the west coast, so outer Hebrides, and then I went to the inner Hebrides. So um there's still more, so many more to visit. Um, I kind of feel like I'm working my way uh, which is why going to Lungo was very special because it was an island I hadn't been to before.

SPEAKER_03

Yeah. Sounds fantastic. Well, maybe next time I'll join you, maybe.

SPEAKER_02

Yeah, well, I know with you with the boat, it always puts you off. So it does. But honestly, you would have been you would have been fine on the boat, so it was nothing to worry about. I just think I know the problem is that booking, you've got to book far ahead and you don't know what the weather's gonna be like. So um, I mean the weather this week we're recording this in May. That the next week the weather's not brilliant um up on the islands. There's a lot of rain and um it's gone really cold, so uh you just don't know what you're gonna get. So it was there a couple weeks ago, it went up to 19 degrees, colder out when we're on the boat. Now it's down to like two, three, four, five degrees. It's gone really cold. Yeah, so yeah, you've got to make sure you plan accordingly for that. Um, but also I just do want to say as well, for in terms of you need to, if you're doing any of these boat tours, make sure that you you can you know that you are mobile enough to be able to do it because you you do need a certain level of fitness and agility to be able to get around and get up to see these uh get off the boat, get across stones, get up cliff sides, whatever, you know.

SPEAKER_03

I imagine it could be quite slippery the surface as well.

SPEAKER_02

And I mean I'm I'm not too uh I'm I'm not too bad I can manage, but I you know it just is important to to consider that.

Final Thoughts And How To Support

SPEAKER_02

Anyway, so that is the end of this episode, another another month actually, because this is the last uh episode in June. So I hope you've enjoyed uh the episodes this month. Again, if you haven't listened to the first episode about Scotland Ireland, it's uh the episode 202 at the end of May. Um but yeah, we've got lots of exciting episodes coming next month. So do tune in. Um give us a follow on your favourite podcast app, download us every week, it really helps. Uh let us know what do you want to hear next. Share with your friends who are visiting the UK. Check out our websites. Please check out our websites, UK Travel Planning and LondonTravelplanning.com. Uh, because unfortunately, with all the the shakeup these days at AI and Google changes, it is hugely impacting us, um, and we really need your support. Um, and I'm gonna make one last one last plea is if you love the podcast, and we get so many emails from you guys saying we'll listen to a podcast every week, we absolutely love it. Could you please consider supporting us, just sponsoring the podcast from as little as two US dollars a month? Um, that's all we ask. It really, really does help. And we have thousands and thousands of thousands of you who listen, and we only have 10 sponsors, which I find really upsetting and sad. So I've just thought I'd share that. So I will put a link to sponsor the podcast, and we do appreciate all of you who do that. Thank you so much. So, from us for for this week, I guess that just takes uh me to say bye-bye and Doug.

SPEAKER_03

Goodbye.

SPEAKER_02

And uh, as always, from us, happy UK travel planning! Thank you for tuning in to this week's episode of the UK Travel Planning Podcast. As always, show notes can be found at uktravelplanning.com. If you've enjoyed the show, why not leave us feedback via text or a review on your favourite podcast app? We love to hear from you, and you never know, you may receive a shout out in a future episode. But as always, that just leaves me to say until next week, happy UK travel planning.