#197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System
The Testpiece Podcast
Chapters
0:00
Intro
11:39
The Level Of International Competitions and How They've Changed
23:33
How Ryan And Mike Set For WC Events
35:41
Debating The Scoring System
44:38
Support From Patreon
1:09:50
How Do Climbing Federations Want Competitions To Look?
1:30:38
The Future Of Competition Routesetting
1:42:45
How To Go From Good To Great
The Testpiece Podcast
#197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System
Aug 31, 2026
Episode 227
The Testpiece Podcast
Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups.
Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Is crimping bolt holds and behind volumes cheating?
- How important is getting a route setting certification
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