How to be fabulous with Charlotte Dallison. Out with the old and in with the vintage. Each week I chat to a fabulous expert guests on their vintage wardrobe and audit to inspire you to embrace more secondhand style. Hello, how are you will this week firstly, thanks so much for tuning into the season and if you haven't listened to the three prior episodes of season two, do go back and have a listen. The first episode was with Amy Abrams, who is the owner of the Manhattan vintage show. The second episode is with Elise Aaron's who co founded Kate Spade, New York amazing and also has the brand Frances Valentine, New York which is one of my favourite sustainable brands to pair with my vintage. Last week I spoke to Michael of Toots vintage, definitely one of the most coveted vintage sellers out there at the moment. So do listen back to those episodes. They're all really inspiring and all bring something totally different to the table. This week. I'm speaking to a Dwayne Hagen. She is a designer and maker who writes on the side. She launched her brand Hakan work room in November 2021 with a collection of one of a kind shirts that she has repurposed from antique and vintage tablecloths. All sourced locally in Sydney, Hagen work room is not her first foray into fashion. In the past, she has run a separate fashion label held editorial positions at Rush magazine, and at Grand life New York Magazine. Plus, she's worked for various lifestyle and culture brands. At Hagen. workroom, she is currently developing new styles once again, mostly using vintage and deadstock fabrics and experimenting with traditional craft techniques, with the intention to create garments that are both functional and playful. For her it's about creating garments without creating any waste. I'm really impressed with the Dwayne his ability to constantly reinvent not just with her designs, but also with her career. She's lived overseas for quite a long time. She's recently come back to Sydney, I love chatting with her and a little fun fact rush magazine where she used to hold various tutorial positions was where I did my first fashion internship. So it feels quite full circle to have spoken to her this week. I hope you enjoy the episode. Hi, Dwayne. Thank you so much for being on the podcast. So nice to meet you.
Yeah, it's so nice to meet you, too. Thanks for having me.
No worries. So the way we usually start is by talking to our guests about what you've been up to a little bit about your background where you're based now, all of that good stuff. So would you mind sharing your story with us? Oh,
sure. So I'm from Sydney. And I grew up here, I guess. Yeah. Always was creative making things into arts and crafts and music, and studied fashion. And just did a year because I was impatient and wanted to just get my little did I know I changed careers multiple times along the way. Anyway. But um, yeah, so I guess yeah, my background is always been around sort of fashion and design. Just different manifestations. So I don't know how in depth. I should go. But yeah, I've had done stints working in magazines, working for brands, having my own label, worked as a stylist as well. And now I'm yet back in fashion and actually making things myself. So So you're literally making them? Yes, yes. So, when I got my brand in my 20s, I would rely on seamstresses and you know, it was the traditional or more traditional of that time path where you would wholesale to retailers and you know, create a lookbook and then sell X amount of garments. Whereas now it's one off pieces made from vintage fabrics. Yeah, and I make them make them myself.
Oh, my gosh, I didn't know that you made them yourself. That's amazing. You must be really talented.
I just learned so that I could, so that I could start making them Yeah. years ago, and I'm still learning I'll, you know, be forever learning because it's so construction. There's so much to learn. And yeah,
well, we'll definitely be talking about your brand a lot throughout this interview because obviously you use vintage textiles and things like that. But I'd love to know how you got into vintage clothing and style.
Sure. So I, my mum, I would have to say yeah, my mom's stylish and she was into antiques and loved beautiful things and, and quality things. So I would say that that would have impacted me definitely. Because it is hard to kind of pinpoint what what it was or why I love vintage so much. But I remember going to a vintage store with my mom when I was about 1516. And my grandma as well actually, and buying a couple of pieces. And then just really enjoying that I had these different garments that none of my friends had. So I guess it was allowing me to have a point of difference. And for me, as quite a shy child or teenager, it gave me I don't know, I maybe allowed me to have kind of a voice and as an aesthetic without having to be the loudest person in the room.
I think it often starts for all of us like as teenagers. And obviously, with this diverse career trajectory, I'm sure you've had moments where it's been influenced, like vintage has been an influence, even if you were in like music or magazines like
yeah, what was that
trajectory? Like? Yeah, so
and I was always really into music. And I remember uninfluenced by the bands that I was listening to at the time, so no early 1000 Rock revival, and you had the strokes and bands like that. And so I just Yeah, I loved that rock and roll injection at that time. And so I started looking back to where it all began and kind of doing the skinny jeans and the velvet jackets and you know, garments that were quite textural and yeah, so I would draw the vintage stores or those kinds of pieces. And I did work at Rush magazine for a while. And I also loved that magazine, when I was studying fashion. And back in the day, it was very vintage inspired. So you know, I guess that's where I was introduced to people like Jane Birkin. And I need a pair Lindbergh and Kate and sort of more so more Kate masters style and people like that. So yeah, I would say it was just Yeah, once you like your eyes sort of finds it. And then it just goes from there.
It's funny, cuz when I was researching for this interview, and like sort of looking you up on the internet. That's sounding creepy. You you started at Rush just as I left because I was actually their first beauty intern. Yeah, she's super cute. But I remember being very influenced by like the staff there and everyone had like a vintage element to how they would dress. And of course, being the intern, I was sort of like, oh, everyone's so cool. And I'm such a DAG
rush magazine was definitely, for me, it was the magazine, you know. And so when I got a job there Yeah, it was definitely a pinch myself kind of moment.
Back to clothes. How would you describe your personal style today? And how do you incorporate vintage into it?
So yeah, these days, I guess over the years, I've become more practical and quite utilitarian in the way I dress. It's definitely about comfort and I care about the fit and the fabric. And I Yeah, so my style is it's pretty relaxed. But yeah, like I love texture and embellishments so that the shapes will be quite classic. But then there might be you know, sort of like a nice woven fabric or an embellishment but I think with vintage now, when I go to vintage stores, I will go straight for the men's section. Whereas back in the day, yeah. So I'll go and I'll look for the for the button up shirts, the blazer, leather belts best loafers kinda Yeah. So over the years Yeah, it's definitely changed. But I think yeah, I'm now sort of just focused more on on on menswear for me which is none of it's ever been a really a conscious decision just evolved over the years. It
sounds like you're kind of vintage Eris seems to be the 70s Would I be correct in saying that?
Yeah, I would say so. I think it is a bit of a mash up, but I do it's funny because I'll, I'll go for different things. And I won't be ever consciously thinking of a particular style, but I ended up looking kind of 70s
I'm like that with the 50 such as can't shake it. Even though I'm sort of trying to grow up a little bit. I just turned 30 So I'm like enough with the Frou Frou but but I just can't help myself. I'm just hooks. I think we We'll have that an era that we kind of suit and that we gravitate towards.
Yeah, it is funny because even back in the day, I had a bit of a punk lot going on. And then, and then it was sort of more that long dresses and everything, but it was still 70s it was a difference, but
an even male loafers and things like that, like, that's super 70s You know what I mean? So it's like even nah. Well, that actually brings me to my next question. Which Have you had any specific fashion phases? Or have you always stuck to one? Look, you've almost just answered that. But could you go through your phases in sequence perhaps?
Yeah, so yeah, I guess early 20s around that, yeah, rock revival was was very much that punk rock and I travelled through Europe and gotten a few piercings, and I had bleached blonde hair. So I definitely own I used to modify actually like sportswear tops. So I cut the sleeves off and have the raw ham and then have sort of vintage velvet blazer maybe in skinny jeans. So I had these kind of myths like this. Yeah, punk definitely a punk as people used to say, at that time, and then yeah, like I mentioned, I sort of evolved into this more. I'm long dresses, and my hair was long. And what else would I wear? Like? Yeah, oh, then that it's funny thinking about it. Because I think then, I had, I had my own brand and, and that went well. And I eventually was burned out. And I kind of shut the door on, on fashion, I thought forever on design. And after that, I just pretty much wore all black. So it was kind of like, it was like leaving. Yeah, it was grieving this on my life. And this dream that I felt was over and, and so I just Yeah, started wearing these kind of all black uniform. And I still cared about the fabric and the fits, but the playfulness was gone. And
it's interesting you say that actually, I don't know. Have you read of Albertsons memoir? It's like called Music Music Music Boys, boys, boys clothes, clothes, clothes. That's a good book. Everyone should read it. Like it's excellent. But she talks about when she like when the slits broke up, and how she could only listen to like, radio for for like two years because she was grieving music. And she couldn't listen to any music. Yeah, the same. It's like you can wear any colour. Yeah, I do think that happens.
Yeah, I just and it was again, none of its ever it's very much a feeling like it's I guess in that's true to how I dress in general. It is. It's based on mood and, and fashion. Just yeah, I was just so disheartened by the industry. And a lot has changed since then. You know, this is 2012. Then I moved to New York, and I found my love of fashion again. Vintage and fashion is so wonderful. Yeah. And the stores over there incredible.
Yeah, so you close the doors in your brand. And then did you work for rush? Or did you go to New York after your brand,
so I closed the door. So I
got a job. Very magazine shake
it together quite nicely. Yeah. And I worked at rush for a couple of years as the brand and Special Projects Manager and in wanting to move to New York and was able to move over there and continue writing for the magazine as Lifestyle Editor and would focus on Yeah, not base content, mostly or American content, but a bunch of other stuff as well. So cool. So it was great. And I got to interview one of my style icons, Jane Birkin.
No. Oh my god. That's amazing. Yeah. What was that? Like?
I was so nervous. So it was kind of like, you know, those times where I wish I could have just relaxed I could have really enjoyed it. But I was just so nervous. You know, she's a real like, she's been around for so long. And she's been interviewed many times. So she just took the reins. made it a wonderful interview. Yeah, it was cool. And I got to speak to Chloe seven years as well. Oh, yeah. So it was great.
It's like the vintage kind of modern vintage wearer. But yeah, yeah. So good. Yeah. So many other guests have cited her as being like a style icon as well. She's just, I could like look at pictures of her outfits forever.
She just puts it together. So well. on it. So her, you know, it's kind of like, other people gave it a go. It just wouldn't work. She just knows how to dress for herself. And and yeah, so that was cool. Yeah, so yeah, I was in New York and then came back a couple of years ago when a lot of it can.
Yes. Oh, so we did you're coming home was that like because of COVID
was and you know, it was time anyway really I spent almost five years there and the plan was to come back to Australia. So I think you know, with New York, you can kind of, I don't know, you, I could almost imagine staying there forever, but because it's quite intoxicating. But yeah, so I like break broke free when I had the chance. And yeah, then went through my grieving in New York period. That really then I started. Yeah, making clothes are all really colourful. So I don't know, sort of, yeah, finding how things work.
I know. Well, I think we do have chapters. And I suppose for someone like yourself who's had a specific, like, chapters of career, the clothes probably correlate with that. And I can imagine coming back to Sydney, also would be like climate would be a big factor being backed by the beach, and kind of wanting to wear colour. And I don't know, from looking at your brand, like slightly breezy pieces and easy to wear, like, yeah, I can imagine that being like, something you'd gravitate towards.
Yeah. And it was such a, it's been such a dark time as well. I think I just wanted that colour and playfulness. And you know, oh, just to like a reprieve from the heaviness.
Yes. Oh, that's, that's nice. I mean, that's inspiring. And how funny to think that prior to leaving for New York, you were wearing all black and then you came back and you're wearing more colour than ever.
And sometimes, it'll take a little while to think oh, that's strange. Like, yeah, now apparently, I'm really into this. But um, yeah, so it's always just a bit yeah, and evolution. And, you know, being creative, sometimes it can be a little bit all over the place. I'm not really sure. But I feel like there is a through line with everything. Sometimes it just just nonlinear.
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So gosh, like I definitely I have loafers that I love I have vintage Gucci loafers and amazing and when and I found them online on eBay and they came from somewhere in the world and now there's always the fear of will the shoe fit? Or like you know what have I bought here what's coming and they just fit perfectly. So that was a really exciting moment and I just wear them all the time. And in New York I bought a lot of coach bags They're kind of a, you know, they're quite prevalent. And then you so many I mean, recently I bought this sub GP on coat, and it's Purple Purple souped up on code from a vintage store just up the road or grand days. And that's especially Yeah, they have a really good selection there. Like I always something
I haven't haven't spent much time in Sydney this year. Usually I do certainly pre pandemic, I didn't, I used to live there as well. But I keep seeing granddad's, like popping up on my feed from various different sort of angles. I'm like, this is a sign or it's an algorithm that I need to go there.
Yeah, it's a good it's a good one. Oh, how could that you live
near it? Fantastic. Yeah. Speaking of shopping vintage, does sustainability factor into why you buy a secondhand?
More and more? It does, I think initially, it was not so much a thought I was younger, and it wasn't as much of a conversation. So I guess it was Yeah, much more. So now, I mean, I'm, I've never been wasteful or into trends. So much. So fast fashion. So think just that I like quality pieces. So it's sort of like by virtue of appreciating quality pieces, I am more sustainable and that I buy pieces to last and buying vintage is generally the garments, the craftsmanship from way back when was was more quality. And also the fabrics are more quality. So I think yeah, it's sort of by by virtue of just loving pieces that are going to last in a good quality, like, I am more sustainable in the way that I shop. Yeah. So again, it's like, yeah, it's more and more, I think, I do think about it, and I'm more mindful, because I used to buy even just a lot more vintage. So now I just really consider my purchases.
Yes, I think especially like when one goes through a big move, you're really conscious of just collecting, like shit for for no reason. I'm actually about to move out of my place. Beg your pardon. It's bit messy behind me. But I'm, I'm off to Italy for a couple of months. And then I went to New Zealand where my parents lived for a bit. I know, I know, I'm very excited. But I'm sort of like, you know, in the process of like, doing a Lease Transfer with some like, check from the internet, and then like trying to like sell everything. And I'm just like, when did I get so much stuff I've moved so many times. And I just feel like I just have an overflowing amount of things. And I'm like, how I'm a conscious shopper.
I know it happens doesn't we accumulate? Yes. And yeah, I've moved so many times. Now. My wardrobe is pretty minimal these days. I definitely. And I still have things from when I was vintage shopping, like 15 years ago. So it's a really special things I'll hold on to as well.
Yeah. I'm the same. And I think yeah, to sort of counteract that last point about, like buying a lot. Those really good vintage finds you never let go of them. They almost become like heirlooms. Yeah. Weren't from your family or something.
It's true. I mean, I will say some things I, I'll be, I'll have a moment where I randomly remember a garment. Like maybe there's something that I'm thinking about and then I'll be like, Oh my gosh, I had something. And then I'll get a pang of like, oh, remembering that I had something great and I let it go. Because yeah, because I was cleaning things out or you know, was just tight felt like it was time for it to be circulated again. I learned the hard way to hold on to the special things.
I know I'm I'm like that as well. And I think I could do a whole podcast episode on like vintage. I wish I hadn't sold because there are definitely pieces I still longed for. And I allow myself despite all my constant moving like a small suitcase just full of like sentimental clothes that have had it that I can't wear or sell. But I'm just like, I have to keep these, like punctuation marks in my life. Back to shopping for vintage Do you purchase vintage for other areas of your life?
I do. Yes. I mean, just looking around my apartment now there's so many vintage pieces says glassware, candlesticks, vases. So lots of lots of kinds of objects, vintage objects, and then furniture as well. So I'll yeah, I'll watch the auctions like the antique auctions and go to auction. And just Yeah, pick up pieces and I mean, I guess I was again starting fresh when I came back from New York with furniture. Yeah, so pretty much yeah, all my furniture minus, you know, the bed and other bits and pieces. It's, it's all vintage. And I actually I have a rug that I brought back from New York. And the story goes, and all my friends laughed at me when I told them this fat, whatever was needed to store in New York in Brooklyn, actually. And I was told that it once belonged to Frank Sinatra's mom, and up. And they lived in New Jersey. So you know, I mean, I got the whole story at the time, and I won't go into the length of it, but it was handed to somebody else, etc, etc. And I choose to believe that it's true. And it's just as good as even if it's not, it's just a gorgeous, you know, very well loved aidid Persian rug. Oh,
my God. Hmm. Cool. So Frank ran around on it.
Yeah. Like, give us like a little baby playing on it. And it has all that history, no matter what it has history, it's definitely been loved. Yes. Well, how
did you decide what to bring back from New York? Because it sounds like if you love decorating with vintage as well, you probably I imagined had an apartment full of treasure. What was that? Like? Especially if you were under pressure with COVID? Kind of on the horizon?
I just, I just let it I just sold it. I sold it all pretty quickly. I made the decision. And within sort of three weeks I was gone. And that's the thing too about vintage is that, you know, if you buy quality pieces, then there it's not that difficult to sell it as well. You know, you're not just having to wait at the end, like people wanted these great pieces that I had found. But I did, I did let it go because I had limited space and storage. And there's definitely gain. Yeah, that sort of pattern of like, oh, there's things I probably could have brought back. But I brought on my records back. I bought the books, books back and Yeah, and just let like sold off the furniture.
Oh, well. That's kind of nice, though. It's like attached to that
pattern. Or the rug. Obviously the rug came with it. Except for
the rug. But you had to bring that because not just mom owned it. Yeah. Worth it. Totally worth it. So speaking of style icons as we were before, you've mentioned them a little bit already. But who were your specific style icons whilst you were growing up and in your 20s? And things?
I didn't have anyone? I suppose it would be Yeah, that I did love what Kate Moss for and Aaron Watson those kind of, you know, the call models need see them in their off duty attire. They just don't like Yeah, I think I guess it was that kind of festival era as well. And yeah, they could wear anything, obviously and look great, but I just like the mashup of different years and kind of the playfulness of the clothes that they would wear. Yeah, I would say that they would then the main ones probably and then get bands that I was listening to at the time, I would notice what they were wearing. But yeah, I didn't have any specific style icons. It was just that I would kind of pick things up and in the street as well. Just seeing what people were wearing in the street or if I went overseas to London like I was quite like the London style. It's quite often a vintage style and mash up. So yeah, so style icons. I don't think I ever Yeah, had any real pinups, you know, but there were just some in my mind now I can think back and almost visualise the outfits that they were wearing at the time I would obviously stuck yeah stuck in my mind.
Yeah, I can see like there's like that picture of Kate Moss at Glastonbury and she's wearing like that like what's the How would you describe it like that vest with
the best with the tiny shorts and then the gumbo
yes
yeah
yes and then when I feel like that photo almost solidified it like the tipping point
remember Yeah, I would have been like okay go on go and find the best now like and I would have gone out and troll the trolls crown street for a best and yeah.
Which you would have been able to find one then? Maybe not that but definitely then I miss shopping on Crown street vintage shopping on crowns.
I know. Yeah, it's changed a lot like they've Yeah, it's just not the same. There's Yeah, Crown street has changed its furniture sellers. Now there are still a couple of vintage stores but not the not that have the sort of curation that they used to Yeah,