Nelly's Magic Moments Podcast
Dave “Nelly” Nelson is a globally published veteran surf and skate photographer with countless magazine covers and spreads to his name. After spending years as a senior photographer at TransWorld Surf Magazine, Dave now shoots freelance for domestic and international publications.
Major action sports brands such as Vans, O’Neill, Fox, and Reef commonly contract Dave to shoot on location for trips locally and abroad.
As one of the best action water photographers in the world, he is usually in the right place at the right time to produce “the goods”. Dave’s relationships and mutual respect with some of the most elite athletes in the world give him access to the best action at the best spots.
Dave’s dedication to the sports of surfing and skateboarding is matched by his values as a person. A true family man, Dave cares about is daughter and wife as much as he cares for his community of Santa Cruz. A consummate role model for young athletes coming out of his hometown, Dave has helped pave the way for some of the best young talent in Nor Cal.
Nelly's Magic Moments Podcast
Episode 2: Jackson Taylor
How does a young surfer from Santa Cruz rise to become a shining star in the world of surfing? Jackson Taylor's journey from being influenced by his dad's impressive backhand technique to experimenting with cutting-edge boards by Bobby Ledesma and Lost speaks volumes of his dedication and passion. This episode unpacks Jackson's story, his inspirations, and his insights into the next wave of talent, including Julian Trang, Otter Punch (Kai), and Brody Price, showcasing the relentless pursuit of excellence within the Santa Cruz surfing community.
In celebrating the vibrant culture of surfing and the invaluable bond between surfers and photographers, we reflect on legendary moments that have defined Jackson's career. From his iconic stand-up barrel photo that captivated magazine covers to the mutual respect shared between surfers and photographers, the episode delves deep into the magnetism certain surfers possess, making every shot a masterpiece. This chapter explores the symbiotic dance of skill and timing that immortalizes the breathtaking moments on the waves, capturing the heart and soul of surfing culture.
From the powerful waves of Oahu to the intense mental and physical challenges faced by surfers, this episode is a thrilling ride through the highs and lows of the surfing world. We discuss the crucial aspects of surf etiquette, the camaraderie among surfers, and the therapeutic nature of both surfing and skating. Jackson shares his personal fitness routines, his new collaboration with Sector Nine, and the importance of balancing sports with education and life. Stories of resilience, near-death experiences at Pipeline, and the invaluable support systems that guide athletes through their journey provide listeners with inspiring insights and lessons from the heart of the surfing community.
this is nelly's magic moments podcast what's up everybody? I'm brian upton, nelly's co-pilot. Nelly, let the, let the, let it drop a little bit expandables.
Speaker 2:Thank you, jeff and the boys. Um, we are here at Nelly's Magic Podcast and it's my pleasure to introduce to you Jackson Taylor. I remember seeing Jackson as a tiny toehead surfing sharks left and it was immediately obvious he was way ahead of his age and his time. I think I saw him bash the lip by the first time by the age of six or seven and some of my earliest shots of Jacksonson are some of my favorite shots ever. Jackson, what's up?
Speaker 3:what up. Thank you guys for having me, yeah, stoked nice to meet you jackson, nice to meet you too.
Speaker 2:It's hard to know where to start. I've known you since you're at itty bitty grom, so, uh, I've got a bunch of questions for you. Um, so when I was a grom, I used to watch your dad rip alongside Adam Repogle and Chris Gallagher. It's so cool to see you following in his footsteps. What's?
Speaker 3:that like for you. It's pretty good because he also really likes to go backhand that's also my favorite thing but it also sucks because he's 54 and still hits the lip harder than me. It's still pretty annoying, but got him front side at least.
Speaker 2:Yeah, that's that is a little bit annoying, um, but yeah, so your gramp shapes boards, and uh, didn't he shape you that magic little yellow fish that you've been riding uh, no, that was actually a bobby ledesma.
Speaker 3:He made my original fishes that I used to ride when I was like 12, like the shark board I had and, oh yeah, green nemo board. Those boards were super good. I used to ride those like every day.
Speaker 2:So is he shaping most of your boards now, or who's shaping all your boards?
Speaker 3:you're getting a bunch of boards from everywhere kind of been getting a bunch of boards from everywhere. I've been trying out a bunch of loss lately which has been working super sick. But that yellow fish I got from bobby the desmond, who's a local shaper here, has been working really good. But I really like my loss and like kind of more powerful, bigger waves. Pretty good. They got a lot of power and it'll just give that board a lot of push and drive.
Speaker 2:Yeah, that board looked incredibly magic. I've seen you do some huge errors on that thing. Um, who do you think the next ripping kids are and who's on the rise around the point?
Speaker 3:dude, I gotta say julian trang yeah, goofy asking about julian, he's doing.
Speaker 3:He's getting really good. He got really good real fast. Yeah, he wasn't even shortboarding for that long. He used to just kind of go out on like a wave storm and then he transferred to shortboard and just is out there like every day for like eight hours. I think he puts in more time than anyone. Gotta say otter punch too. He's been out there a lot, which is uh, which is kai. He's pretty good front side sick. Call him otter punch because his instagram name but also we got brody price is obviously really good too. He's been ripping lately, doing some big errors. I've been seeing him boosting and olalai too, max St Denis, I can go on and on.
Speaker 2:Yeah, go on and on. Let's shout him out because you know we've got Adam Bartlett out there, we've got like this crazy group of upstarts in Santa Cruz and they all deserve mention.
Speaker 1:These kids all your age, are they a little bit younger? All over the place.
Speaker 3:All the other kids I just mentioned are a little bit younger than me, like, uh, two years younger than me, probably some of them. But julian is a freshman this year, so he's probably three years, four years younger than me and he's been ripping with some good power and his backhand turns. I'd say yeah for my age group though. Definitely. Adam bartlett, james daniel, those are my two good friends. I've been surfing with them my whole life and they've the whole. Reason why I'm pretty good nowadays is because of them. They just push me so hard. We've all been pushing each other.
Speaker 2:You guys are the trio for sure, the Goofy Foot trio of that.
Speaker 1:I got one, nell. As far as when you see these younger kids coming up, do you see a little bit when they make a turn like that, basically in skill level? Do you see yourself in that a little bit? Do you remember when that happened for you, or are you just kind of like that kid, everybody's a little bit different. Or do you kind of look back already at very imagine what, 17?. How old are you?
Speaker 3:Yeah, I'm 17,. About to turn 18 in September 28th.
Speaker 1:So I remember this because I'm old, but I'm not that old I remember by the time you're a senior or junior you look back on freshman. They just look like Right, are you getting that in the water a little bit? Where you see these kids come up, they're ripping you like how? And you realize, oh, I was doing that four years ago. People were saying that about me.
Speaker 3:Definitely. Yeah, I definitely do think that, like with Max St Dennis, especially because he just he got really good just now, he's been putting a lot more power into his turns. But especially Julian Trang, I got to say his backhand just can get reminded of you dude.
Speaker 2:I remember someone telling me they're like how about that Julian kid? You've been shooting with him. I'm like Julian who. I didn't even know who he was. And then I saw him at first week, left just like blasting, and I was like whoa, like these kids weren't far off you know you guys pulling 100% for each other can get a little weird sometimes.
Speaker 3:Oh, just with waves and stuff.
Speaker 1:Just waves and as far as, like you know, it's different because it's a weird sport with sponsors single waves and eventually there's this competition aspect to it down the road. Can it get weird?
Speaker 3:It definitely does. Me and James are the oldest, so if Seth's coming, and we're out the back. You know we're going, no matter what. That's all I'm saying.
Speaker 1:That thing's there. Leave it there, right. Leave it there. That's how it goes.
Speaker 2:Yeah, I saw JD in Hawaii last year. He was so sick and he was ripping charging logs.
Speaker 1:Yeah, and then, before we forget it, because I want to stay on Nelly's first point there about family and tradition and time in the water and an actual pivot to that as far as priority and things like that is the first question I have, and this is with anybody in any sport or any kind of hobby where there's greatness above you, is it all positive pressure or is it sometimes like yo, that's a lot to live up to, or is it just mostly positive?
Speaker 3:I'd say there's a lot of positive aspects of it, but there is some negative too. Go ahead, keep going. Can you restate the question?
Speaker 1:That's fine. I think what I was talking about is like, because the thing about is like you got to remember, like let's say let's say first in the water, just for this conversation it might not have been true. Let's say it was your grandfather was first in the water as far as this level, nobody above him, no pressure, there's no name, there's no expectations. He's just in the water, now maybe a little bit more with your dad, because now you've got Shaper, you've got your dad. Now you're a generation coming up where you're not just unencumbered in the water surfing without any family name, you're surfing with a reputation from the first day you get in the water.
Speaker 3:Yeah, pretty much. Just because my grandpa and my dad were all from east side of Santa Cruz and now I am too, I definitely feel a little bit of pressure when I'm out there, especially when I'm absolutely bogging, but try not to do that especially when I'm absolutely bogging, but try not to do that.
Speaker 2:Also, one of my favorite things about surfing is you get to surf with these generations of surfers that you know. Some of the guys have been surfing out there for 50 years. You know what I mean. When you're a Grom. That's a long time and it gets competitive and here you are competing with like a 62 year old surfer and for the same way about a sewers. You know what I mean, or whatever.
Speaker 1:And there's only a couple sports that are like that. Right.
Speaker 2:Like golf, for one would be like some prom that's trying to make the tour or whatever. He's playing against some guy who's practically on the senior tour and they're going neck and neck.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 2:I mean it's the same in surfing.
Speaker 1:And my last follow-up to that was just one more. It's just a curiosity that I know times are changing. 2024 is different than 2014, and 04 and 94. And talking about that sort of let's just talk about wave priority, let's talk about like sort of like you know that space in the water. Back in the day I was in the water it was handled a very certain particular way that it's just not as acceptable anymore. You know what I'm saying. So how has that handled these days? As far as I'm sure you hear stories from your dad how things used to be done in the water. Has it changed?
Speaker 3:It hasn't really changed too much, except I mean, the next generation doesn't really like to get all aggressive like that. But I forgot to mention also another upcoming ripper, cooper Shank.
Speaker 1:I've got to mention him.
Speaker 3:He's been ripping, he's been getting good real quick and he's been getting good at barrel riding recently. So hopefully me and him this winter will get some stand-up twos together. But yeah, I mean, not many people really hold down the localism anymore. It's not really a thing, yep, due to people. Just you can't really do it anymore, right.
Speaker 3:It's just seen as just horrible. And you're a horrible human being. Everyone just starts talking about how mean you are. But definitely me and Cooper still try to hold it down. If the waves are on and I don't know you and you're out the back, I'm going to be cool with you, but if you start back-paddling me then I'm definitely going to burn you.
Speaker 1:And I think we touched on this before, nellie, but it's fun to hear this perspective from this age. Is that and this is my perspective growing up here it's not so much about? You know, there's the classic go home valley, go home. You know, there's a safety aspect to this also, and that's I think that never gets talked about enough. It's an ecosystem out there, right.
Speaker 2:It's a funny thing because every day is different out in the water. One day it could be only 10 guys out and the next day is it 70 people out. Every day is different, you know, I mean. And so it's like if you show respect day in and day out, you're gonna get respect, basically, and you know, some days you might not get a lot of waves and other days you're just collecting and it's just it's. That's how surfing is. You know, I mean, and and from what I've seen from jackson, he's got respect for everyone that deserves respect out there and he gets the waves that he deserves as well. You know what I mean. And it's like you know, if you're surfing first peak less than Jackson's definitely in the pecking order. You know what I mean.
Speaker 1:That's it. That's all I had now.
Speaker 2:Um, all right, Well. Uh, let's see what. Where can? All right, Well, let's see when can I go from there. I would like to talk about the magnet factor. That's one of the things.
Speaker 2:One of my favorite things about being a photographer is I have all these people throughout my career, who have the magnet factor all the way down on an international level John, john and Dane Reynolds, and these guys who we have a magnet when we go shoot we get a sick shot every single time. Okay, and Jackson's one of those guys. You know what I mean, and me and Jackson have been working.
Speaker 3:What do you think our first shots are like when you're five years old? Yeah, I remember way back in the day at the Mo. It was a really bad day, but I remember walking down the beach with my dad like a long time ago. I think you were there shooting, maybe nat young or something. But my dad just told me he's like hey, that's the guy. You got to get shots with him. If he wants to take photos, you let him take as many as he wants.
Speaker 2:All right, dad, yeah. So anyway, I have these memories of jackson when he was really really little. He had curly, white, blonde hair and he's just the cutest little Grom and and he ripped and it was like the first time I saw him surf at the hook. He was bashing the lip already and he was so tiny it was like it was ridiculous.
Speaker 1:So a magnet in your definition is what?
Speaker 2:A magnet is someone who I always hook up with, so if I'm swimming, Because they're giving you the goods, because they're giving me the goods because they're that good and they know what to do. You know what I mean? And there's certain guys that know what to do and the other guys just surf and they hope you get the shot. Yeah, and it doesn't really work that way.
Speaker 1:Yeah, and knowing you also has to be. There's always the Nelly sort of like life work balance that I got to imagine that you can't just get the goods and be a dick, you have to get the goods and be a good human to be around also.
Speaker 2:I would hope so.
Speaker 1:It's nice when it works out that way.
Speaker 2:It makes the missions fun when you're with people that are fun to be around and you all like the same music and you laugh and joke and heckle each other. You know what I mean, but anyway, there's only a dozen or so people in the world that I had that magnet factor, and jackson's one of them.
Speaker 2:Like every time we go shoot, we get something crazy that's amazing humongous air or stand-up barrel shot and you know, last year we scored this incredible barrel shot and it went everywhere. It went on the cover of magazine and and um where was it?
Speaker 2:it was down in the bay okay and uh, and it was also on the. It was like eight or ten feet by ten feet on the cover of pack waves window and it was cool because you know getting to see jackson. You're driving by and you see him just huge in the window right there. It's like I know that's a huge accomplishment for me and I know what that feel like driving by the first time oh, it felt pretty sick.
Speaker 1:I had to come check that out, right well, because you're growing up here, right, yeah, and who else have you seen on that window, for instance? I mean like over before you, do you remember even?
Speaker 3:I uh used to be sponsored by uh o'neill surf shop. Yeah, uh pack wave when I was a little girl yeah, I remember zealand hunter yep he would always be on the o'neill surf shop windows, just these huge clothes, this barrel photos, just insanely tubing, and nelly always got him, always was in the spot, and I was like dude, I really want to get on one of those windows like a barrel shot, and then just being able to see myself on one was so sick 100 I remember seeing a post that, um, your grandma did, and she was standing in front of it, yeah, and I was like heck, yeah, it was so sick.
Speaker 1:And it's true, your career is interesting, your sport, your hobby and your career right In the water. It's very different than a lot of other careers where I make a magazine, right, and so we kind of put our head to it, we produce it and it's there I can go. It's sitting on that coffee table over there. The thing with surfing that's trippy is like you need the imagery to match the moment. I'm not saying it doesn't exist, but it's a different career and job because you know you might, you know you may be out there and if there's not an image to associate with it, clearly it happened. I'm not saying it didn't happen, but when, when it's your career, I might mow a lawn, the lawn's mowed, make a magazine. He's a photographer, he makes a print. But when you, when your career is actually competing, being in the waves, you know it really helps if there's a photo or a video to capture it Right Back in the sixties.
Speaker 2:They call it the coconut wireless, because that was the only thing they had, and it was the only thing they had, and it was the word of mouth in Hawaii of who was charging you know you didn't need to hear all these stories about you know Titus or BK or any of the guys over there, and it was just word of mouth.
Speaker 2:Basically, you know, I mean the photographer. If there was a photographer there, it was very rarely. You know what I mean. And then shortly thereafter came all the famous photographers, don King and Bob Barber, and all these guys started shooting in Hawaii and capturing everything and uh, but before that it was the coconut.
Speaker 1:Yeah, what do your notes say, nelly? What do you got? Look at this. It looks like some kind of a madman over there with his scribbled notes all over the page.
Speaker 3:Nelly, I've got like eight pages over there.
Speaker 1:Yeah, there'd be way before your day. There was this dude called the Unabomber and he was like a serial killer. He would bomb like post office, but the thing about him was they find the profiles. Part of that Unabomber was like he had like really scattered kind of thoughts. He used a typewriter, he had notes all over the place. I'm not saying he's a Unabomber.
Speaker 3:Nelly might be a serial killer.
Speaker 1:I'm just saying. I'm just saying he's got a tendency. What's next on that scribble over there, Nelly.
Speaker 2:Let's talk a little bit about your journeys to Oahu. How many seasons you been going over there? I know last year I saw you pack some serious barrels at Pipeline and what's it like staying at the Volcom house? I know that it's an intense place, oahu, and it seemed like you were having a lot of fun, which is insane. You know what I mean. Like a lot of people go over there and they don't want to pack a huge barrel of pipe, they want to surf V-land all day. You know what I mean. And I over there and they don't want to pack a huge barrel of pipe, they want to surf v-land all day. You know I mean and I saw you pretty much every time I'd see you you're either a pipe or rocky's just busting huge airs or packing huge barrels, and what's that like for you?
Speaker 3:it's pretty fun, it's pretty amazing, but I definitely am scared. Nemo, I'm fortunate to have my buddy nemo come with me and stay at the house with us. So it's sick and I and I know when he has that camera out I can't not go or else I'm never going to hear the end of it. Yeah, because he'll start heckling me. But I think I've been going there to the Oahu for maybe about four winters in a row now. Yeah, I think this last winter was definitely the best waves I've scored yet. I went kind of late season and crowded because it was late season. Not that many people were there, just the locals. I end up having a really fun time. It was super sick but power definitely is a lot different there than here. Like you can go get a barrel here at sewers or anything like that, but it won't compare to a barrel at pipe. Just like when you're inside that thing you just feel the air and it breathing on. You know. Just like wants you to fall, like it's crazy.
Speaker 2:Yeah, you're not going to get cheese-grated at sewers. You get pounded out of sewers, but you're definitely not going to get hit across the lava.
Speaker 1:Right.
Speaker 2:So who's your crew? What's your crew like over there? Because I've seen you hanging out with a bunch of the boys. You know what I mean. Yeah, I know you have a crew.
Speaker 3:I like to hang out with anyone who's really in the dungeon. I like Mike Iberdine. The Roberson brothers are pretty cool to me, but with Nemo there, me and him kind of get on our opening program. But there's this guy named Kobo. I don't know if you know him, but he's the boy San Diego. He was really cool to me, and so was the Aussie boys like Keanu and Ty and Joel. All the boys were super sick while they were there. Nanu and Ty and Joel all the boys were super sick while they were there. So I got a pretty cool little crew. Also, legend and Mana are always pretty cool to me. They stay right next door so I get to talk to them a few times and they get real grilled at pipe. Saw Mana get some crazy ones this winter when I was paddling out.
Speaker 1:You get some good intel from those guys as far as inside knowledge, as far as the breaks you know, like people that are there, you know um, that's their home court, right? Do you get some good info?
Speaker 3:Yeah, also another kid from Kauai, like, uh, jacob Turner I like to watch what he does Cause he's pretty good out there. He takes off really deep and sends it and gets pretty barreled. He's told me some good things. But also Mike Iberdine uh, back in the day I remember my first time coming we serve Alamoana bowls and he kind of helped me out a little bit on like the smallest day ever at Pied Pools, like my first time ever surfing there. Kind of told me what tree to line up with, like when we were super groms, and then ever since I just haven't forgot that.
Speaker 1:Now explain that, cause there's about half of these people that'll listen to this. Cause we disperse it all over the place Like. Explain that, like why finding like a line of sight and things like that are helpful.
Speaker 3:It's very helpful, but it's also not that helpful too out there, cause you know such a crowd it's just you pretty much got to put yourself pretty deep, sometimes not where you even want to be, and that's why it's super dangerous. There's another reason that pipe is because that crowd is just so clustered together that's really hard to get waves right. So you don't really even know if you're going. Yet you got to weigh even know if you're going, yet you got to wait.
Speaker 3:You got to look behind. You see if anyone's going, and then you'll wait till the last second. Then you're like, oh, no one's going, I gotta go, and then you just get rolled that's the hardest thing out of pipe is.
Speaker 2:There's this crew of the guys who are just the guys out there. You know, you're kalani chapman yeah and reeve mcintosh and guys that you have to watch out for. Those guys make sure they're not going before you even paddle.
Speaker 1:All of a sudden you're that dude the same people were talking about 12 minutes ago. Here you're the 18-year-old and you're basically. You know, it's such a reversal of your circumstance. Your local habitat here it's almost like a little bit reversed over there as far as you kind of looking around making sure you're giving way.
Speaker 3:Yeah, exactly yeah, I ain't never going to battle none.
Speaker 1:You kind of looking around making sure you're giving way. Yeah, exactly, yeah, I'm never gonna battle. No, no, just like they wouldn't you here, you know, I mean it happened.
Speaker 2:But the sickest thing that I've seen over the years is guys that I've traveled with, like the gadascus brother yeah you know it took them like four years, five years, before start guys started to like recognize their skill level and recognize them in the water and and they started bro-ing down and pretty soon they're giving you weights. You know what I mean, and it's like it just happens naturally, you know.
Speaker 1:I think so. I think the thing with surfing that I always remember is is when you're young, you have a sense of it and you kind of learn it, but then, as life goes on, the one thing you realize is that surfing in that that whole thing we're talking about right now is very much like a workplace. You don't want to hire a dude and him walk around the first day like he owns it. You're like yo, you just got here. And that exists in the water too. It's not so much that they never want you to have the experience that you're looking for. The reality sometimes is you just got here.
Speaker 3:That's completely correct. I've actually never thought about it that way, but that's exactly how it is, like if you've been working somewhere for a long time and then someone just comes in and starts trying to take over on your shifts and everything, you're going to be bummed.
Speaker 1:Think about any jank. Are you working right now, do you?
Speaker 3:have a job. Yeah, I work Betty Burger, which is like a burger joint, and then I also teach surf lessons for Bud Freitas at Santa Cruz Surf School.
Speaker 1:Betty Burger is the better example for what we're talking about for the audience, because all you have to do is it's water or it's there. Let's say you walk in, you get your shirt, you get your training, you sign your little manual and you start pushing people out of the way. It just doesn't work that way. I always talk about it and there's a different way. It can be physical, it can be real, but in this, even if you're traveling, you know this cause you're traveling. Now it's like you need to kind of respect the culture, learn the language, respect culture, learn their language and then and then make your way in politely.
Speaker 2:So that's cool. So you're still a senior in high school, correct? Yeah, I still got one more year, so already working two jobs as you're to school, that's. That's, that's the grind right there, and that's insane, because most kids do not do that. Um, I was gonna ask you actually about working at bud surf school. Um, you work with augie ryan augustine and sam coffee and dane anderson, correct?
Speaker 1:those are my three of the best surfers in town right there sounds like slides and vibes from the magazine right now.
Speaker 2:Yeah, it's for the best surfers in town, jt included, and and how lucky is bud to have you, have those guys and have you working there. You know, I mean because that's, uh, over 100 years of knowledge of you, know, I mean uh, that job taught you patience at all.
Speaker 3:You learn patience doing that oh yeah, that job has taught me a lot about patience. And it's also like before I kind of used to get a little eggy in the water, but but now I don't really get eggy because I teach surf lessons. I get it that just people don't really understand and some people don't get that when they're trying to get waves and there's people in their way. And some people just literally don't understand, like what they're doing wrong.
Speaker 2:Yeah, everybody has to learn somewhere.
Speaker 1:And by statistics having that job, you sort of get this, this interaction. There's no percentage to it, but more of them than not are just good people. And they're just good people. It's not what you know. We grow up thinking like every single person that drives over that hill. You know, get the fuck out of here. And it's not always like that. I think that's a great job, to kind of like understand that you know they're just people in the water and they need to learn their way, that that you know they're just people in the water and they need to learn their way.
Speaker 2:That's cool. It's cool that you work for Bud. Bud's one of my oldest friends and one of my best friends. We've known each other since he was a tiny girl. I'm just like you, you know. I remember him coming up to me and being like let's shoot. Now he's just a tiny little 10-year-old grom, you know what I mean. And now he's just running a surf school. That's crushing it. Yeah, it's doing good. Anyway, I'm super proud of him and I'm stoked. So let's see what else we got for. Oh, do you do any kind of training?
Speaker 3:Me, yeah, doing training. Yeah, I started going to jiu-jitsu, which is good for my cardio, but also me and James have been hitting the gym a lot. Nice, I got an uncle that's basically like a personal trainer, so he made me a cool little program that I've been working with and trying to just get stronger, get ready for winter sick.
Speaker 2:Yeah, you don't look like you have much fat on you. I've been, I've been grinding, so you've been skating. I know you've been skating because I've been skating with you. Um, we've been shooting this new, new um campaign for sector nine. And tell me about your. Uh, you just signed with sector nine. Tell me a little bit about that. And uh, and dennis, how's it working with dennis over there?
Speaker 3:dennis is the boy. He's super cool. I went down there and I actually met him in person down in san diego when I was down there for one of my friends trips in escondido, and he was super cool to us. I actually went went with James too, and James was able to tag along and get a few free things too while I was there with them. They just gave him some free stuff, which is pretty nice of them, but I didn't. I rode sector nine for them when I was probably like 13 for a few years and then I kind of stopped riding for them. And then now they're coming back and I just got back with them. And then now they're coming back and I just got back with them.
Speaker 2:It's been nothing but great. Are we going to see a Jackson Taylor model coming out soon, dude? I would hope so, that would be insane.
Speaker 3:That would be crazy.
Speaker 1:Is skating relaxing to you? Yeah, I love it. As compared is what I'm saying as compared to surfing, or is it both equal? Or is skateboarding your happy place?
Speaker 3:Honestly, I'd say, depending on what music I'm listening to, I'll skateboard, and if I'm skating some bowl or like somewhere like Mike Fox definitely a little bit more aggressive music. But when I'm skating just cruising around the park, I definitely like to chill and listen to some reggae or some old school like disco stuff.
Speaker 1:Do you have your um? Do you handle? Do you handle your own social?
Speaker 3:Yeah, I do.
Speaker 1:Cause there's some hard music on there. It's not, not from, it's not your generation's music. When you say hard, what are you talking about? What bands?
Speaker 3:I really like Alice in Chains. It's a few good songs and then obviously just all the old rock bands I love. Sublime my dad just kind of Murder City Devils too. I use a lot of their songs. They got two really good songs for surf edits. I really like those. I got a whole entire. It's hard to think of them off the top of my head, no I got you.
Speaker 3:I got a bunch of. I have a whole playlist on my phone that's just strictly old rock music that I'm going to use for future edits. But there's this one edit that Andy Irons posted to Backside Surfing and it was super sick. It had this song called make it out alive by I've cut you up or something like that. They were called and I'm just waiting. I'm waiting to use that song, so I feel like I can. So I feel like I have a good enough backside part. Isn't that Cote's band?
Speaker 2:Yeah, it is, I think, I don't know.
Speaker 1:I mean, grab his phone. One of the questions is one of the little things we're going to do on here is I'm going to have you play three songs off a playlist. That's going to actually work out. Pull up that playlist, as Chris Cotet.
Speaker 3:Like as in Chris Cotet, cut you up.
Speaker 2:Yeah.
Speaker 3:Maybe it was just a re-reproduced. Maybe my whole entire thought has been a lie. I guess it is reposted in Goofy Foot, though. That's why I love it so much.
Speaker 2:Your grandpa shakes boards and has been for a long time. I remember his boards you want to see it.
Speaker 1:Yeah, that one.
Speaker 2:Is that the song? Yep, yeah, really that's.
Speaker 3:Chris Cote's man. That's crazy, that's actually crazy. I feel like it. Hey, still super cool. That's Chris Cote, but I thought it was OG here, plug it in. Let's listen to a little bit of it. I want to play this uh other song though, the by murder city devils.
Speaker 1:so I'm gonna hey, do you have your question gonna stick in your head. We we keep it, nelly. Yeah, we're gonna go to one of mine, which is play three songs off a playlist.
Speaker 3:It's a little one right here by uh, by murder city devils uh. Bobby martinez made an edit to this let's hear it it's crazy.
Speaker 2:I was just gonna ask you about bobby martinez.
Speaker 1:I was just going to ask you about Bobby Martinez. Turn up the volume on yours a little bit.
Speaker 3:There it is. Actually my buddy, james, said he's going to use this song for an edit. Uh-oh, uh-oh.
Speaker 1:I have to wait my turn on that one. You might be publicly claiming it right now, though. Let's call out for him. Though, there we go. Now. This is when you want to punch somebody in the face.
Speaker 3:This is when yeah, this is for some big old barrels or some big old power turns Pretty much anything that's big, big old airs.
Speaker 1:Alright, you can get on your phone. You get two more songs to tell us a little bit about yourself. It doesn't have to be the same playlist. Just pick two more of your favorites and let's hear it. That's funny because I like when you said it. It's like the fact that you said reggae basically melts your face, and also some disco. That means you can get a little weird out there. What's coming up? What do we got? Now, here we go.
Speaker 3:Nelly.
Speaker 1:Who we got here.
Speaker 3:This is Alice in Chains.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 2:It's funny because I could see I think I used to see Seth listening to this Years and years ago.
Speaker 1:Alright, no pressure, you got one more song to define yourself.
Speaker 3:Honestly, I gotta say, for some reason, bro Nelly just posted one of his videos to this song. It's a reggae song called Steppin' Out. Yes, yeah, yeah, this song is super tough. Now you, for some reason, bro Nelly just posted one of his videos to this song. It's a reggae song called Steppin' Out. Yes, yeah, yeah, this song is super tough.
Speaker 1:Now you're getting into Brian's world.
Speaker 3:I love this song. Let's go.
Speaker 2:This song is super. Landon just opened for Steel Pulse the other day.
Speaker 1:He did.
Speaker 2:He played with Slightly Stupid.
Speaker 1:Where at?
Speaker 2:At the Shell.
Speaker 1:Alright, Nelly.
Speaker 2:That's our little intermission. What's your next question? All right, let's go um. So you're coming from a long line of goofy footers in santa cruz guys like rufo, randy bonds, tyler smith, your dad galley and tyler fox, who are some of your other favorites in town regular foot or goofy foot. Who's your favorite surfers dude? Sam rips really hard, I gotta say his airs are pretty gnarly.
Speaker 3:I'd say uh, nat young's backhand is pretty insane. His backhand he just ripped, mean power turns, so he's pretty sick. Also, john mel's super cool. I really like his backhand too, and especially his front side airs.
Speaker 2:He's super consistent yeah, johnny's pretty much.
Speaker 3:Yeah, both those guys are gnarly, yeah, but definitely augie after that barrel he got at mavericks that swell when it was like kind of like it would cap and then break and hit the reef and just slab out that huge stand-up barrel he got that was all over stab and all that. That was crazy. Yeah, also aloe, aloe sabir's edit from uh when he went to pasquale's that was so heavy I was tripping on him.
Speaker 2:He's got to to be one of the gnarliest underground guys in town. Aloe.
Speaker 3:Aloe. He's heavy.
Speaker 2:Borderline, not underground anymore, because when I was in Hawaii last year all these legends were coming up to me. They're like how's that Aloe guy from over in the neighborhood Like that guy's nuts? You know, what I mean, sends it. But Augie, yeah, I used to do a lot of traveling with Augie. It's crazy to watch his second career come full circle. He's just blowing up again. Yeah, it's so sick. Yeah, it's not like his surfing ever went anywhere. He surfs more than anyone.
Speaker 1:Right on. How far has it taken you, If you have that world map on the wall? Where have you surfed Countries, places, where have you been?
Speaker 3:I've been to Mexico a few times but realistically, like recently, I haven't really been able to travel too much and I really want to travel a lot more. I want to go surf other waves. So I'm really going to try to work as hard as I can to get towards that. But I've really surfed Hawaii, Oahu. I've surfed Puerto Escondido, which was just that wave's real heavy.
Speaker 2:That wave whooped me, and then after that, I guess we're talking to Palooka.
Speaker 3:Yeah, that's your dream. Wave right there, I want to go there. So bad, can't say, but somewhere super sick.
Speaker 1:Do you feel like your experience at Pipeline right now is sort of like opening the door to some other places?
Speaker 3:Yeah, I feel like I got a few nice ones. But I want to get one of my goals was written down on paper is get an actual huge stand-up barrel at pipe. So I need to work a little bit harder, get ready for that, because I want to send it this winter.
Speaker 1:Let's get into the high weeds a little bit of that process. Like you know, from a standpoint like, let's say, you're not a surfer explaining to somebody. What are you talking about? Like, like, how would you get there? What kind of commitment level to get to that goal would it take?
Speaker 3:Well, you definitely got to be kind of mentally ready, because when you're out there, people people don't really get in. What probably scares a lot of people is that when you're out there and a wave's coming on your head, there's nothing you can do to stop it. You're right there and that wave's going to hit you and it's not going to let you up until it wants to let you up.
Speaker 1:Right.
Speaker 3:So you're fully out of control. You have to be fit enough to be able to paddle as hard as you can for a long period of time without getting your heart rate too high, cause then you start wasting oxygen. You also got to have a very good breath hold and be able to take pressure when you're under hard circumstances.
Speaker 1:Let's go through your head in those hard circumstances. Actually, one of the questions I have is like your gnarliest moment surfing and skating so let's just kind of let's stay right there and, you know, let's talk about either hold down or what's the what's the? What's the, what's the worst spot you've been in, or what would you consider like your toughest kind of experience.
Speaker 3:Oh, definitely in Hawaii at pipeline. It was kind of experience. Oh definitely in hawaii at pipeline. It was like it wasn't like crazy big but it was definitely breaking on like second reef a little bit. Hawaii guys would probably call like literally like four feet, but it was, it was pretty legit. I was tripping if it's breaking let's go through it.
Speaker 1:Let's go through like second reef. It ain't so let's be.
Speaker 3:I was out the back like super far with my guy with my guy Noah Hassett, santiago and Santiago, he's super good, he's from Portugal and then I think that's it. I think it was just us four out there and it wasn't good. It wasn't really barreling. There was not like a single good wave we really saw. It was just kind of big wonky stormy and I don't know why. They were just all psyched on going out for some reason. And I was sitting there and I was like all right, whatever, I'll go out with them, whatever. But they're all riding like six, nines and like seven o's and I had my little six, three and I was just like oh, I'm so cooked. And then this huge set came and I just saw this whitewash coming at us. It was like there's only a few sets like that yeah, it wasn't too big but it was enough to like absolutely whoop me.
Speaker 3:This set came in, I bailed my board and since I don't have to bail my board that much, I did not know what I was doing. This is like two years ago when I was still like kind of a grom, didn't really know, and then I came up too early and the wave just sucked me back down and I got so pummeled, caught another three of those on my head, and then I got pushed to the inside reef where back door and off the wall, close out, where it's like super shallow and I was like out of breath, gasping for air, like I was so stressed out, fully thought I was about to die, heart was racing. And then this freaking huge double up, this close out between back door and off the wall, just keg, just landed right in front of me and I just got blown to bits. But then I came up and I was fine. Then I went back out.
Speaker 1:That makes no sense. Wait, wait. This is like our podcast the last time where the story is told and I feel like I missed a huge. So you're in trouble, you can't breathe, you're weak.
Speaker 3:And you get hit harder and everything's good. Well, when you come back up then you know you're okay, but before that point you're like I'm dead as hell.
Speaker 1:Yeah, I think what I think that would be is yeah, that would be the.
Speaker 2:I think it's called dopamine right, one of those things when the adrenaline is there. You just you know you're just back out there. It's like you either go to the beach with your tail between your legs, which is probably the worst thing you can do, cause then you're going to be terrified next time you paddle out.
Speaker 1:Are you talking about me again?
Speaker 2:Cause my confession last podcast or you can paddle back out. You know what I mean and it's like you know. I'm stoked that Jackson went back out. It sounds like a baller on this, I mean. I mean, that's how baller made him an aim for himself is on big wonky days He'd paddle out there by himself and he'd find the diamond in the rough.
Speaker 1:You know you know that thing they talk about like you know, like it was not they don't talk about. Like you know. You heard of dog years, right, like for every one year, seven years for a dog, something like that. I think being held down is a lot like that. Like for every 10 seconds on planet earth, five seconds, it's a minute down there, like you know, cause, cause, that being in that environment being held down, and I've never been held down much more than that, like a small. How long? What's long has he been held down? If you were to guess.
Speaker 2:I know that I had a very similar beat down at pipeline. What exactly would he just you know, and it was terrifying and I, I made it up. I don't know, it must've been 10, 15 seconds. Exactly Just in time for the next 12-footer to mop me and I pretty much tore my elbow plate off of my elbow. And then the next wave exploded, my housing on the bottom and I broke my port and lost my whole camera.
Speaker 1:But the whole thing probably goes down what 45 seconds, 30 seconds from beginning to end, but it probably felt like four days yeah, and when I remember coming up and all the photographers looking in and they're like are you okay, nelly?
Speaker 2:you're purple, you know, I mean and I'm like no, not really, and I was like holding my camera up, trying to swim in backwards and and save my camera equipment, you know, and uh jackson, did your fundamentals kick in during even the worst time of that?
Speaker 1:were you like thinking about your breathing and stuff like that, or were you just kind of surviving in that, in that story?
Speaker 3:That one was like, realistically, my first time when I was like actually tripping. So I was like I was definitely, definitely not staying calm, or I was, I kept. I remember, right before the last one hit me in the face, just being like all right, you're all good. Hit me in the face, just being like all right, you're all good, just just go under it, just go under it.
Speaker 1:But the ones before that, when they were first coming, I was you didn't see a way out.
Speaker 3:I, I was. I was like oh, I'm done, I'm smoked wow do you remember that one time we went and it was like our first time ever meeting on the north shore to shoot and it was huge, rocky, yeah, and I got swept to the inside right at rocky's. I got pinned right there on the reef and it was too shallow for me to duck dive.
Speaker 2:That was another day where I was like, oh, I'm cooked and it's gonna be on film yeah, I was just maxing rockies and I was already tripping, because jackson was tiny, you know, I mean, and I was like oh, he's getting swept and yeah next thing I knew he was in the impact zone. Like the reef is like a foot deep out of rocky rights, you know, and um well, that kind of you know, as I was shooting from the land, there's not much I could do except no I should make sure that you know, and he was fine I knew that section was gonna be good.
Speaker 3:I didn't know it's gonna be that good um skateboarding worst moment honestly, I, I, oh, yes, I uh jumped off a roof on my skateboard. I took a little break from surfing because I got kind of like bored a little bit when I was a little bit probably like eighth grade, and like everyone else was skateboarding, so I was all psyched on skateboarding so I started like sending it and I couldn't really do any flip tricks or anything because I was a transition skater but everyone was all pumped on speed skating so I was like all right, right, I'll show these guys how it's done. I did like an 11 stair, I all I did, which wasn't crazy, but for me at eighth grade I was like oh, hell, yeah, I was sick, it felt great, and then I went to dunlops.
Speaker 3:Uh, it's a donut shop yeah, yeah yeah, you know, that roof kind of has a little slant down. I like all laid off of it and I landed. When I landed I compressed so fast I it like, made a minor tear and like my ACL, and then after that I over it.
Speaker 2:Yeah, I was over it, but I landed it. I landed it. I wrote one year skating the other day you were doing a huge nose, bones and all kinds of stuff.
Speaker 1:And then you finished off that ACL playing football two years ago.
Speaker 2:Yep, that's. Yeah, that was one of my next questions as well. Like I know you played football for a year and I was like semi-terrified for you but I didn't want to say anything to hex you, you know. I mean, but like what was that? Like I know you finished out the season but knowing that you had just signed a new contract with volcom, I was like oh, wait a minute.
Speaker 1:You were more scared for that dude playing football than watching him. That pipeline, pipeline, the worst injuries, the life change.
Speaker 2:Yeah, you're right that that, yeah, that you know it's like between the concussions and the and the acl rips and all that stuff. So I was stoked when you retired from that, knowing that your surf career is going somewhere. Yeah, I did two years and then I was over it but yeah, I was just.
Speaker 3:Everyone just kept telling me over and over again dude, you're blowing it, blowing it, you're blowing it, you're blowing it. Night Young was telling me like oh, dude, you're gnarly for that. What happens if you hurt yourself? And then sophomore year I was just like all right, whatever, I'm over it, it's not. It ain't really even for me. I let my best friends handle that, who are actually good.
Speaker 1:I was actually. It looked like you were having fun. I got to watch some of your games and I always make this argument because I played football in high school and college. Um, just over at cabrillo. It's still college, but it's. It's the lowest level, but I think there's a we talked about with poncho, we've talked about on the other podcast. I think you're less inclined to get hurt in football, just like surfing, skating, if you commit like you commit. Now there's some circumstances there. Like you said, I don't even know how you. What was the final injury in football? What did it?
Speaker 3:somebody roll up on you or something like that no, I was actually uh, so we only had um, it was my, actually I might have hurt my knee my freshman year and we were all on, uh, no, sophomore year, we're on JV and we had we had, like, I think, 13 people on the team.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 3:So I had to play. Everyone had to play like four different positions, so I they had me at tight end and I was pretty small and they also had me playing like line running back. They had me playing like everything, and then same with all my boys. Everyone was playing line Like pretty much, if you could, if you're strong enough, you were playing on the line, for some reason which is ridiculous. No, he was on the freshman team that year it was. It was a year when Vaughn you know Vaughn- obviously Vaughn and all of them got really good and they got moved up to varsity.
Speaker 3:So then we got all stuck on JV.
Speaker 1:So what were you playing? Line about 114 pounds playing line about 114 pounds. Yeah, I was like I was like one 30 playing line he's big, he's fat kids, and then I was playing tight end.
Speaker 3:I don't know what happened. I like ran a flat and then I caught the ball and then I ran, broke a tackle and then broke another tackle Cause they tried to tackle me, and then I literally didn't even do anything, I just cut up field.
Speaker 1:Oh, just on a cut cut a field, and then my knee like folded inward and I just like dropped.
Speaker 3:I got an idea why that might've happened Cause you jumped off the roof at Dunlop's donuts.
Speaker 1:I mean just for the historical record. You said you hurt your knee playing football. I don't know, I don't know about that.
Speaker 2:So I got a question. So I've been watching you grow up since you were a teeny girl and I've seen a lot of people in this town have a lot of support for you. You know, first person that comes to mind is meekster. He was always hooking you up with skates and always hooking you up with meekster bra stuff and it still is guaranteed, you know I mean.
Speaker 2:So that's keith, meek and um, who else would you like to shout out that's supported you out throughout your whole childhood and career? And you know I mean because there's, from my perspective, it seems like a lot. You know, yeah, with desmo and your grandpa and your grandma maybe, and pretty much some shout outs out there.
Speaker 3:Every one of my every one of my family members for sure my dad, my grandpa, especially my mom too, um, mimi, poppy, obviously also rainbow fins. They've always. I've been riding with them since I can, since before I can remember when I got my first board, and they're a local company and they have been helping me out a lot and give me just all the fins I need.
Speaker 3:And everyone rides like futures, but I like my rainbows just as much as I like my futures definitely also skin dog I gotta give big shout out to skin dog because when I was a grom he he put me on Volcom and I've been with them ever since and if it wasn't for him I probably would not be riding for Volcom. He helped me out a lot and he's been helping me out a lot over the years. I think he got me to Hawaii the first time Awesome yeah. And he's been helping me out a lot with Lost too and just helping me out, just like mentoring me and stuff out a lot with loss too, and just helping me out, just like mentoring me and stuff, especially, yeah, loss, you're telling me about one of your boards.
Speaker 2:That was magic that you rode down, it was it in mexico, or where was it?
Speaker 3:uh nicaragua, oh, nicaragua, yeah. And then I got steamrolled on the reef and broke. It was that papaya, or was that colorado's, or where was that? No, uh, I don't even remember the name, but but the boom, you know, rancho de Santana, yeah, you have to take a boat to it. It's a reef that breaks on the cliff. Manzanilla, yeah, manzanilla, yeah. That one. It was not big enough yet, it was kind of smaller. We were waiting for the swell to come on the boat and it was breaking real close to the rocks. But somehow there's like these huge sets coming that were super good and I ended up getting a few sick ones where, like the board would just like do the sickest carves. I could like blow it off the lip, do airs. And then I got this Insider and like the Insider is like kind of barrel, so I did a carve and it breaks literally right on the cliff. It's like secrets, basically, you know.
Speaker 1:Amazing.
Speaker 3:And I, like, did a carve and then all of a sudden it just doubled up when I cut back and just turned a dry reef. So I cut back off the whitewash and I hit the whitewash and when I came down my nose was facing straight down like I was going to ride out of it. But it was just straight up a rock. So I just rode straight into the rock and flew forward into the rocks, just broke my board.
Speaker 1:I feel like you. Uh, is that like the funeral of a loved one, when that happens?
Speaker 3:I was so bummed.
Speaker 1:Yeah.
Speaker 3:I was able to go, though, because actually everyone down there is so cool, like we're staying at this pretty nice place, but a lot of people down there are from Florida, and I met some really cool people down there. This kid, ben he was the boy, but him and his family actually invited me to go with them there, and then I ended up going and breaking my word, but it's still super fun.
Speaker 1:I think you got your whole support system except your girlfriend.
Speaker 3:Obviously my girlfriend Jessie. She's here right now. She's also insane at volleyball too. Shout out for that.
Speaker 2:It's fun to be shooting from land, and when I'm shooting you, I have hundreds of people come up to me and they're like is that. Jackson. Oh my God, I love watching him serve.
Speaker 3:Especially give a shout out to Nelly 100% Always been shooting me and pushing me. Just that's why I'm as good as I am today. It's because of him, for sure, always telling me to send it on those airs and send it on those closeouts, even when I don't have it colored he's thinking about the aesthetics of the image before you even get in the water he needs.
Speaker 1:You got it. You got an image of what you want it to be right I like color flying around no doubt, no doubt, no doubt.
Speaker 2:Whatever, but yeah, it's weird to see you driving around. Dude, I still think of you as this, even though you're like a grown-up now, and I still remember the days when you were a grommet and all of a sudden you're cruising around in your own car and shit it's pretty crazy.
Speaker 1:Hey Jackson, it's a nontraditional kind of situation you got. The question I have is just kind of situation you got with. The question I have is just kind of an open-ended one, like school and career balance. And I'm not talking Betty's Burgers anymore, I'm talking about like surfing. It's a trip because a lot of us, you know for me, grew up here, school on the West side, have the job down, you know the boardwalk, wherever you're working. But it's school, it's football on a Friday night, it's all kind of within the context of it. But yours is, yours is pretty attractive. The other thing you do is very much not the high school, you know scene.
Speaker 3:Yeah, my, uh. My teachers are all psyched on me. They kind of like it a lot, but some of them are just like dude, you miss way too much.
Speaker 3:Exactly Like I'd be skipping class all the time to go surf, like my freshman and sophomore year. I gotta say my grades were horrible because every day there was a swell. I was not going to school, right, I was going and I was trying to get as many shots as I could and just go surf not even shots, just trying to surf as much as I could. And that definitely, uh, took a toll on my, definitely had to ask permission.
Speaker 2:when I would take him out of school and we'd go on missions down in the Bay or down to Big Sur or wherever, I had to ask permission from both mom and dad. You know what I mean and we had to get it all straight and you know the answer is usually go for it.
Speaker 3:Yeah, dad always held. Yes, dad was like, yeah, go send it. And then my mom was always like you better get your grades, I promise. I promise, just let me go film.
Speaker 2:Come on, I got to get these barrel shots and it worked. You know what I mean it's like. Look at you now.
Speaker 1:So that's the last half of the question. Did you find your junior and senior year a little bit of a balance with the grades also?
Speaker 3:My junior year. I actually first year I actually like tried, got good grades, a's and b's, somehow. I don't know how. Everyone says the hardest year, but it was the easiest year for me because I decided to actually do my homework instead of pushing it off. Yeah, definitely don't ever procrastinate any well. I am right now definitely procrastinate with school work, but that's a bad thing to do, I gotta say hey, it's a bad thing to do in life it is a very bad thing.
Speaker 3:You can't push stuff off. You gotta just get it done when it gets done.
Speaker 1:You sound like Nelly now.
Speaker 2:Let's get back to skateboarding. I love skating with you and shooting photos. I was actually blown away the last time we shot photos. You were just punting these huge errors. What's some of your favorite skate spots and who's your favorite pro skater?
Speaker 3:I got to say I really like Monty Skate Park, which is New Brighton Skate Park, that half pipe with that hip right there. That's definitely my favorite section. But also growing up I definitely really liked Jose because I lived down the street which is where we shot that one time. That's why I was able to boost on that hip, because I've been skateboarding that exact hip since I was like eight years old. But I'd say Grayson Fletcher, the way he just sends in, does huge airs, is just crazy to me.
Speaker 1:Like those huge.
Speaker 3:Ollie Norths. Oh my God, they're insane.
Speaker 2:I was shooting him at the Bonsai Skate Park a couple years ago and he was barefoot and he was doing like five-foot frontside ollies over these hips and I was just like dude, like do you not get grip tape like wounds in your foot from rolling your foot?
Speaker 3:For sure Guy's a psycho. He's crazy. So good, yeah, and Chris Jocelyn too, for street skating. If I ever like wanted to street skate, I'd definitely watch Chris Jocelyn. That guy's pretty crazy, yeah. He just sends it down gaps, like doing like crazy, friggin' big flips, tray flips, hard flips, like everything. He just sends it.
Speaker 2:Yeah, I remember that. One of my favorite memories with your dad is we were spending some time on the North Shore together and we were surfing and skating and we found this ramp behind the lifeguard station at Haleiwa and me and your dad seshed it for hours. We were just sweating bullets. Your dad was a ripping skater, you know what I mean. He probably still is, I don't know, I haven't skated with him in a long time. But you know, when I was growing up it's funny because your dad's younger than me, but I looked up to your dad because he ripped so hard, you know, I mean, and it was like he's one of the guys who's like. You know, there was guys I looked up to, like chris gallagher and and adam ripogle and your dad. They were like a trio and I think they tried to bring him on tour for a while. They took him to France or somewhere.
Speaker 3:Yeah, yeah, took him to France. He went to Mundaka and all that stuff. He was telling me stories about how he used to hang out with like Barton Lynch and stuff and all that. I'm just like dude, that's like insane to me, like in Tom Curran and stuff like that. I'm just like what the hell? Yeah, you tell me about been talking about this earlier, jesus. Yeah, I just find out new and new, new stuff. Like, yeah, slowly, as I go on, I was just like so crazy. I'm like bro, you should have told me this years ago, I would have been tripping so I am tripping.
Speaker 2:So was it last year or the year before when we got the call from bobby martinez and he was like come up to san francisco, or you know, I mean, and we were gonna go up and shoot with him and then the swell ended up dying on us. The day we went up we were already like halfway there. Tell me a little bit about here. I know that you really respect bobby and he's one of your favorite surfers, correct?
Speaker 3:yeah, he is for sure. My dad has always told me about his backhand definitely one of the best backhand surfers of all time. All those edits of him at ring con and sand spit, they're just crazy. Also this, uh, barlin left and ventura and or santa barbara one of the two not gonna say it's crazy like he's sending in huge barrels and just getting so pitted and just spit out. That's where that song I was playing earlier, that the press gang song from murder city devils they were.
Speaker 2:That's the song it was going to probably why that's your favorite song because you watch that edit 6,000 times.
Speaker 1:Yeah, you get that sort of like embedded, sort of like it's like a DNA mark of a song with a moment, and you could never untie those two things together.
Speaker 2:It's always there, you know.
Speaker 1:How are you doing on your crazy notes? We're winding up pretty close on time. Did you get through your crazy notes? Crazy guy, my crazy notes. We're winding up pretty close on time. Do you get through your crazy notes? Crazy guy, crazy notes are still here.
Speaker 2:You know, I was, uh, I think we kind of, we kind of went through you want to do our, you want to do our uh, eight minute question?
Speaker 1:yeah, let's do it. We, um, we did a podcast way back that led up to this one in the, the podcast, the. The spirit of the podcast was basically we were going to have just amazing people on. We'd be like the, the. It was going to be conversations like this, but really what we want to talk about is like something they did daily to be great at what they do Like and it's not a big pressure question, it's like me, like, and it can. It's could be surfing, could be skating, could be life, but is there anything you do on a weekly or daily basis to kind of be what you consider great?
Speaker 3:Well, I think definitely one thing that always helped me is that my dad always told me everything's easier when you're calm.
Speaker 3:And he would tell me that every single day, every time I'd get angry, every time I would ever get emotional. He'd just say everything's easier when you're calm. So that's definitely something I always try to do. And just to get better at surfing, I really just think is just go surf. I did a training with gianelli for a while when I was in the contest, but that really helped me a lot with my contest surfing. But I've just found that I really like free surfing a lot more. I like just being out there in the water and being able to just surf the most I can do. Big airs and get barreled is really my favorite thing to do.
Speaker 1:Pick your spot right, it's like you get to surf you know what, what we should do Grinding waves instead of grindy waves.
Speaker 2:Exactly.
Speaker 1:So we don't lose track of this, because these are conversations and we'll lose track of this. I already forget what Poncho said. He did, you know, but it was rad. But what we'll do so it stays in the permanent record is we'll do the podcast. You said the calm is that goes on so many different levels Outside of the water. That's just life. That's on Highway 1 in traffic, exactly, calm down. Okay, you're going to get there. You're going to get there eventually that's exactly it.
Speaker 1:So what we should do on the podcast. We'll create a tile with their thing so that it kind of stands up there alone. It'll be the promotional stuff. We'll have a fun little image with that little kind of like thing that makes you great, so we can always look back on it and kind of keep it. Eventually we can make a little coffee table look out of it.
Speaker 2:A little inspirational. I have one more question.
Speaker 1:Go ahead, it's one of the more important ones.
Speaker 2:There is an incredible group of women surfers coming out of Santa.
Speaker 1:Cruz right now?
Speaker 2:Yeah, it's crazy, our last skate session we brought Is ila with us, but she's an amazing surfer. But who are some of your other favorite surfers?
Speaker 3:uh, you know, you obviously know kai core, right, yeah yeah she's pretty gnarly kk. She did a club sandwich at the hook in like a heat and I was just like what the hell, are you serious right now? I just randomly out of nowhere, I was just like watching and she just did a club sandwich on the clothes.
Speaker 1:Translate that for me.
Speaker 3:You grab, you basically grab the rail and then you throw your whole body into it on the lip and you just roll over and do like a 180 pretty much and it's so hard to do.
Speaker 2:I don't think I've ever done it. Basically, you go grab your rail, go upside down and flip over and then Club club sandwich.
Speaker 3:yeah, I think it's a josh kerr move pastrami on rye. Definitely a riviera hunter too, yeah, for sure, and she's been. She's gonna be super gnarly in barrels. It's gonna be crazy.
Speaker 3:You're gonna wait when she's older, especially zealand's, I know he's pushing her I know john's pushing her, but I've been seeing kai kora and uh her out at wado reef uh, not wado reef, but wado parking lot, a little beach break just working on their back, which a lot of people do not do in Santa Cruz, because it's all rights, exactly so. They either just go specifically right and then can't go in front side on the left or back side on the left.
Speaker 1:That's an interesting nugget. Yeah, that's interesting.
Speaker 2:There's no lefts there. You know what I mean. There's an occasional, you know, and we have really short little wedgie ones like Sears lefts and first peak lefts, and but nothing to necessarily train on or kind of get, get your skill set up uh, there's a few good waves up north when it's glassy right, you know. But it's always windy up there, and so for the most part, it's predominantly right. But um, what about kira? Kira, oh yeah kira too.
Speaker 3:I had to say that too. Also, east side surfer always hear out as sewers. She's been getting huntress, she's been, uh, kira, jade jade, yeah, she's been blowing tail. She got a really good frontside snap where she just blows the tail out, which is super sick. But yeah, that group of girls like Kira, Isla, Rivvy and Kaikoura have just been ripping, Gotta say yeah.
Speaker 1:I think you named every single surfer that's going to be in Slides and Vibes for the fall issue, the four.
Speaker 2:Who are the four you?
Speaker 3:put in Max St Denis. Yep, max St Denis Got to get Max on here.
Speaker 2:Yeah, well, you already dropped Max's name. Yeah, he is a freak show, max is.
Speaker 1:Sam's in it, right?
Speaker 2:No, sam Coffey is in there, yep Isla, yep, riviera Hunter. Those are the four, I think Right, those are the four.
Speaker 1:I think this issue yep, and then one last one, as we kind of drift out of here is like um again, it's, it's not that. Where do you see yourself in five years or 10 years? Do you have any like big, like kind of goals on the horizon, like things you just want to go grab?
Speaker 3:dude, I really want to go to indonesia or the mental wise or something like that. I just want to go get insane barrels.
Speaker 2:I just want to go do insane barrels and do huge airs simple goal that's simple goal and we've got a little trip planned we're not going to talk about, but it's a little secret journey that's mapped out with some bigger names and some big stuff coming out sounds like a documentary.
Speaker 1:We should make secret journey dude. This was awesome. Thank you, this was a lot of fun. Now any closing moments and hey, we've got a couple minutes here. Any sponsors? You got a name out or you know any handles on Instagram that you want people to kind of check out?
Speaker 3:pretty much every one of my sponsors. I gotta say big thanks to Volcom yep. Just helped me out so much with clothes and everything with wetsuits, richie, richie he's the boy he helps me out. So lot going down to the factory, going down south helping me out, getting me in Hawaii. Got to thank Creature too. Just got on them.
Speaker 1:Oh, right on.
Speaker 3:Pacific Wave local surf shop. They've always helped me out. They helped me out a lot when I was in Hawaii. Big shout out to them, skin Dog, skin Dog. Again got to thank him so much because he's definitely because of him. Holcomb especially. Also Rainbow Fins, like I said, sector 9, especially Also.
Speaker 1:Merge.
Speaker 3:Merge 4, got to say that too. Another local brand, super Sick Socks. You guys Socks sorry, not shots Socks. Got Nelly featured on a few of those. You guys got to go check them out Any kind of surf shop we got some crazy photos on those, and Ledesma Desma.
Speaker 2:Oh yeah, there's just so many people, I'm just forgetting about it.
Speaker 1:Yeah, my grandpa's shaping boards local boards at Freeline Surf Shop you can go find them there.
Speaker 3:Also. Bobby La Desma, custom boards right there for you Works really good but lost, especially with the new boards they got coming from me. I've been really liking them so far.
Speaker 1:Jackson's like you've been doing it your whole life. Thanks, boys.
Speaker 2:Legendary shaper Pat Taylor.
Speaker 1:Last call out Nelly. Taylor Surfboards Taylor Surfboards. Last word, Nelly, what are you going?
Speaker 2:to say Love you everyone. Thank you so much for listening.
