#61 - The most fabulous Christmas markets and festivals of France

Let us whisk you away with us to France to find out about the most wonderful Christmas markets from the oldest and the biggest to the most magical. 

Plus discover the most fabulous festive events from the quirkiest, turkey-est Festival held in northern France to Lyon’s Festival of Lights and Nancy’s unique take on a Christmas story. 

Fun facts, fascinating snippets and top tips… 

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Podcast 61 TRASNSCRIPT

The most fabulous Christmas markets and festivals of France

Janine:  A great big bonjour and welcome to the Good Life France podcast. I’m Janine Marsh, your host. As you may tell from my accent, I’m not French, I’m from London UK but I feel a bit French in my heart, and I’ve had a home in the far north of France, Pas-de-Calais, for 20 years. I write books about France, I’m the editor of a website called The Good Life France, and of a magazine of the same name which you can find at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com – it’s totally free and utterly fabulous.  I travel around France all year round, exploring and discovering more about my adopted country. When I’m not travelling or writing or looking after my many animals (I have more than 50 animals), I love to chat to you on this podcast alongside my podcast partner Olivier Jauffrit. 

Oli: Salut tout le monde, and welcome to the podcast. I am French and I lived in England for 20 years but i came back to France earlier this year to live three permanently, and am loving it. I live in Lyon in the south of France… great city. I am a radio presenter in a local radio station there and my main hobby is to go to my local bakery to buy a nice fresh and crusty baguette + some éclair au chocolat. French life is nice I have to say… So that’s us – now, let’s get down to business! Janine can you please tell us what’s coming up in this episode?

Janine: I’m not sure I can really as I’m day dreaming about chocolate eclairs now! LOL. Well, this week I’m off to Alsace to visit the Christmas markets of Strasbourg and Colmar and then I head into the hills and vineyards to visit enchanting villages like Riquewihr and Kaysersberg that are Hansel and Gretel pretty and decorated for Christmas. And the week after that I will be going to the Loire Valley to visit the Chateaux all decked out in their Christmas finery. And after that to Provence to visit some gorgeous villages and discover how Christmas is celebrated there. Now this is all for articles that will appear in the magazine and on the website, but I’ll also be sharing my experiences as I go so join me on Instagram at Instagram.com/thegoodlifefrance. Anyway, this made me think it would be great to talk about the Christmas markets of France, their history and traditions, the oldest, the biggest and the best, and also to talk about some of the fabulous Christmas festivals of France – including the weird, and the whacky – the quirky Christmas events that are unique to the French. 

Oli: Ah, the Christmas markets, or as we French say, "Marchés de Noël." They’re not just markets, they’re a grand festive tradition that lights up cities and towns across France during the holiday season. So, some serious holiday wanderlust coming up! Join us as we whisk you away on a festive journey through the France’s most enchanting Christmas markets and festivals.

Oli: Ok, let’s sip some hot, spicy mulled wine, pull on our gloves and scarves and take a virtual stroll through the charming Christmas markets of France and then we’ll tell you about some of our favourite festivals including some that are very unusual! But first, let’s wind the clock back a bit, shall we? Christmas markets began in the medieval times in the German-speaking parts of Europe in the Alsace region, where you’re going next week Janine, which has flipped between German and French control, embraced this tradition with open arms.

Janine: Absolutely. The tradition of the Christmas markets in France began in 1570 in front of the Gothic Cathedral with just a few stands. Today there are more than 300 market stalls spread throughout the city. The heart of the market remains in Place Broglie (where it moved to in 1870) and in Place de la Cathédrale, the lovely medieval square in front of Strasbourg’s graceful Gothic cathedral.

Oli: Known as the ‘Christkindelsmärik,’ Strasbourg’s Christmas market is one of the oldest in Europe.

Janine: I’m glad you said that, it’s a hard word to say! Strasbourg is also where you’ll find a very special Christmas tree, and if that’s not enough to bring you out in a severe dose of Christmas fever, there are several more Christmas markets in the city. Oh yes, it’s also the most illuminated city in Europe in December. 

Oli: And this is why we call Strasbourg the “Capital of Christmas”. If you love all the razzmatazz of Christmas – you’re going to fall head over heels for Strasbourg during the festive season. We’re talking delicious smells – cinnamon, gingerbread and mulled wine. Fabulous food – and if you want to know more about that, have a listen to our last podcast the Christmas food of France. There are – as you said some 300 market stalls plus there are concerts, carol singing, storytelling, a carousel, ice rink and entertainments. Everything you need to make your Christmas trip complete! A top tip for when you’re there is to pop into the pharmacy at No. 10 Place de la Cathédrale. It’s the oldest pharmacy in France and well worth stopping off for.

Janine: Great tip I’ll be stopping off there! Yep, I’m feeling Christmassy now! So, I mentioned the Christmas tree here and this too has an astonishing history. Strasbourg has hosted a traditional Christmas tree for centuries. An ancient manuscript from 1605 describes decorated fir trees placed in Strasbourg’s guild houses during Advent. Every year, a thirty-metre-tall Christmas tree is brought to Place Kléber. It’s decorated with colourful ornaments and shimmering lights. It is the highest decorated Christmas tree in Europe, and its best to visit at dusk when the lights come on.

Oli: The tradition of the modern, decorated Christmas tree in France is even older than Strasbourg’s Christmas market! The first written mention of the Christmas fir tree was in Selestat in Alsace in 1521 though the tradition of evergreen trees goes back much further with its roots in ancient Egypt to celebrate winter, and in early Christianity it was thought that the branches of the tree looked like the cross of thorns on the cross and so the tree represented the birth and resurrection of Jesus. 

Janine: No one really knows when fir trees were first chosen, it’s thought maybe 1000 years ago or even longer, probably in northern Europe. In the Middle Ages the trees were called Paradise trees to represent the Garden of Eden and hung upside down from the rafters, and decorated with apples and fruit and nuts. In 1539 – the first Christmas tree in Strasbourg was set up in the Cathedral. Overtime, glass baubles replaced the real apples and fruit that were hung. It’s a custom especially in northeast France to collect a unique bauble each year and they become family heirlooms. There are lots of fantastic glass makers, you can visit them and choose your special bauble or of course go to the Christmas markets. 

Oli: And here’s a fun fact – the tinsel that we all chuck on the Christmas tree is from a tradition in Germany to cover the tree with real shredded silver! 

Janine: I didn’t know that! And another fun fact, in the old days some people would tie candles to their trees – not very safe at all, please don’t try that at home kids if you’re listening, so in 1895, an American man who was concerned about the fire hazard investment the first electric Christmas lights – yes Christmas lights are 130 years old! Who knew?! 

Oli: Wow, that is old! Strasbourg may be the oldest and biggest Christmas market in France, but France is full of magical markets – pretty much every town has a Christmas market, and you can expect illuminated streets, pretty decorated stalls alpine style, roasting chestnuts and vin chaud, what you call mulled wine in English.  

Janine: I love the Christmas markets - from the big ones in Paris like at the Tuileries Gardens with stalls, rides and an ice-skating rink, to Lille in northern France with its huge Ferris wheel with wonderful views over the city. Colmar not far from Strasbourg is really magical, like stepping into a Christmas painting as the streets glow under the lights. 

Oli: For something different, how about the Christmas market of Roubaix, which is near Lille. 

Janine:  I love Roubaix, it’s a really arty city with amazing street art and one of the best museums I’ve ever been to, called La Piscine, it’s in a former art deco swimming pool – it’s extraordinary, beautiful and unique.  The pool is still there and there is a rumour that a very well-known designer held a cat walk show there and had a ramp running down the middle of the pool (it’s long, but narrow that pool), and one of the models fell into the water! 

Oli: Yes, it is a very arty place and it’s also a zero-waste pioneer city and it hosts France’s first sustainable Christmas market – everything is made locally, by hand and often from recycled materials made into something gorgeous. 

Janine: I keep meaning to go to this special weekend they hold in December where they invite artists from around the world and you can go there and take an item from your home that you want recycled and you leave it with them and then go back a bit later to collect it and you’ll have a unique piece of art. I love that. And another different market is at Mulhouse. It’s in Lorraine, neighbouring Alsace, and every year to celebrate their textile heritage, as this was once one of Europe’s cloth making capitals, they create a new and festive cloth. And I’m not talking tea towel sized here, I mean big, big enough to drape it over the town hall and Christmas chalets and in the streets – it’s very pretty and I think it’s unique I’ve never seen this anywhere else. And afterwards you can buy a little piece of the cloth for a scarf or a table cloth or something like that. 

Oli: France really offers a Christmas market for every taste, whether you're there for the nostalgic history, the festive shopping, or just to immerse yourself in the yuletide cheer. 

Janine: It’s true there’s a Christmas market for everyone in France – and it really is a special time everywhere with something going on with virtually every town and village holding a Christmas market from troglodyte caves and royal castles in the Loire Valley, and you know the chateaux steal the show a bit, they’re competing with each other to put on the most magnificent, imaginative show with loads of pizazz to tiny town squares. Whether you're there for the history, the shopping, or just to soak in the festive spirit, it’s an experience that feels like stepping into a holiday postcard.

Oli: And you can't do a Christmas market without feasting! In France, it’s all about "pain d'épices," the soft, spicy gingerbread, or "tarte flambée," a deliciously thin pizza-like dish. And "vin chaud," that’s hot mulled wine, which really sets the mood.

Janine: And biscuits, cake and great steaming bowls of tartiflette, melted cheese with ham and potatoes, an alpine feast. 

Janine and Oli: mmmmm. 

Oli: And now let’s talk about some of the festive events in France because it’s not just the markets – there’s more! 

Janine: Ok, I’m going to kick this section off with one of my most favourite festive festivals in France - the Fete de la Dinde, the Turkey Festival. It’s one of the quirkiest, and certainly turkey-est festivals in France. It celebrates the turkey, traditional bird of choice for Christmas dinner for many including the French as you’ll know if you listened to our Christmas food of France podcast! It takes place in Licques in the north of France, not far from Calais. Licques is nicknamed “Turkey Town” as its famous for its poultry and especially turkeys which were introduced to the area in the 17th century by monks at the Abbey of Licques. The festival takes place over a weekend in early or mid-December and there are lots of food stalls, and a huge pop-up restaurant with tea dancing, one year I went there were 1000 people in the pop-up tent! And there is a giant cauldron in which the local Licquoise liqueur is brewed over a bonfire – I mean giant too, to pour the liqueur into glasses, someone mounts a ladder to reach the top – it's proper bonkers! But it’s the Sunday morning event that draws the biggest crowds. At a little square, the Place de la Mairie, at one end of the main street, everyone gathers to watch a whole load of turkeys being released! They waddle down the main road, guided by the Noble Dames and Knights of the Brotherhood of the Turkey and various artisan and guilds groups like the Brotherhood of the Potatoes (!) from local towns, and they’re dressed in all their finery, and the turkeys get to live through Christmas! It’s proper feelgood and great for stocking up on your Christmas goodies – and for a tea dance after lunch! 

Oli: That sounds like a lot of fun. For me, well you know, living in Lyon I really have to choose the Lyon Festival of lights. This is a major festival which takes place over 4 days, from 5th to 8th December this year, and around 3 million people visit during this time. There’s a fascinating history to this festival which has been held every year for 172 years! It’s because on 8 December 1852 it was to be the inauguration of a statue of the Virgin Mary at the great Basilica of Lyon. It had already been delayed from 8 September due to flooding which meant the statue couldn’t be delivered. But that December day, the weather was absolutely terrible, big storms, lots of rain. The authorities were going to cancel the event but suddenly, the sky miraculously cleared. And to thank the Virgin Mary the people of Lyon lit up their windows with thousands of candles called lumignons. The Festival of Lights was born, and the people of Lyon carried on lighting candles every 8 December – and still do! In the 1960s shops started to hold contests to have the best illuminations in their windows. Over the years the festival has continued to grow and now famous designers from around the world take part to create the most amazing light shows projected on the walls of the buildings, on the bridges, streets, riverbanks and the river. It’s magnificent! 

Janine: There are a boatload of light festivals at Christmas in France – I love the one in Epernay where the whole of the Avenue de Champagne becomes a huge party of light installations and pop-up Champagne bars for the Habits de Lumiere festival held over a weekend in early December. Then there’s the amazing lanterns and light trail in Metz in Lorraine, northeast France.

Oli: And speaking of lights – pretty much every city, town and village will be sparkling with Christmas lights this time of the year.

Janine: Yes, even in my little village of 152 people, the mayor puts up a string of lights in the tree outside the tiny town hall! Have we got time for another festival do you think? I just thought of an unusual one to tell you all about. 

Oli: Yes go for it – an unusual festival sounds good! 

Janine: Ok this one takes place in Nancy in Lorraine in northeast France and it’s proper weird. So we all know about Father Christmas right, so you know the jolly old Santa we see today is very much a modern invention, a result of a very clever marketing campaign by Coca Cola because Father Christmas is actually Saint Nicolas. And in some parts of Europe his Saint Day – 6 December, is celebrated with enthusiasm – including in Nancy. And here they celebrate his day with a very unique festival with complicated roots. In a nutshell, Nancy was besieged in the 15th century by Charles Quint, Holy Roman Emperor, and the people had to eat rats to survive and it was rumoured they even turned to cannibalism. Not very festive you might be thinking. But… over the years, the butcher who prepared the meat got mixed up with Pere Fouettard, another French Christmas character who gives out coal instead of sweets to naughty children. And at this unique Christmas fete in Nancy there is a light show in the gorgeous main square which looks like Versailles, and it shows the story of the butcher welcoming three lost children before slicing them up and marinading them in a barrel for several years! Sorry kids – don’t have nightmares! Well St Nicolas visits the butcher and of course he knows what’s happens and he makes the kids well again and they wake up and have no idea what’s happened and live happily ever after. The end. 

Oli: Ok, I don’t think we can top that one for being different and utterly unique and a bit scary! 

Janine: And fabulous! Honestly, it’s a fantastic event and after ths there are two days of fun as St Nicolas and Pere Fouettard take to the beautiful streets and give out sweets and turnips instead of coal and then St Nicolas turns on the Christmas lights. 

Oli: Sounds totally fabulous. Let’s just mentioned one more Christmas festive event – the Santon displays of Provence! In many parts of the world, Nativity scenes make up a part of the Christmas decoration but in Provence, they are taken to the extreme. Displays showing local scenes or biblical scenes contain hundreds of figures which are called “santons” (little saints). The traditional Biblical figures are only a small part of these sprawling displays and you’ll see representatives from daily life on show in the Nativity from the butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker and every other profession that is practiced in a southern French village. 

Janine: I love those santons! I’ve seen all sorts from Lady Gaga to rugby players, and some people have them specially made, I was in a Santon shop in Provence where a lady ordered a baby santon for her daughter who just had a baby and the santon-maker had a photo of the baby to help him make it. I love that! 

Oli: The history of the Nativity scene can be traced back to St. Francis of Assisi, who wasn’t French but did have a French connection – his mother was from Provence. He was born in Assisi (Italy) while his father was away on business in France. His mum named him Giovanni, but when his father returned, he started calling him Francesco (meaning Frenchman, which is Francis in English). And St Francis was the first to make a representation of the Nativity scene. In 1223, he used a little manger (feeding trough) filled with straw and a live donkey and ox. 

Janine: Actually, we have a real manger in the town of Montreuil-sur-Mer near where I live, but it’s not real animals in there, though last year I did see a mum and her three children go there with a goat on a lead to take photos! 

Oli: I love that! Anyway, what St Francis started became really popular but during the French Revolution, crèches in churches were outlawed. This is when the first small Nativity scenes started to appear in France. And people made little saints at first with things like dried bread, and then clay like now, and to this day the santons are really popular and in the south of France there are huge santon fairs, santon makers are famous, and there are grand santon displays and people have nativity scenes in their homes. 

Janine: I have a very small collection of Santons as I’ve only just started to collect them! 

Oli: Erm…  how did we almost get to the end of the podcast and hardly mentioning Paris at Christmas? 

Janine: Definitely, we have to mention the city of light which really is magical at Christmas. There are lots of different Christmas markets throughout the city though the one I will absolutely be going to this year is the one in front of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame which reopens on 8 December after 5 years of renovation following the devastating fires. 

Oli: The City of Lights is beautiful at any time of year, but perhaps never more so than during the festive season. Christmas in Paris is an open-air art experience - a bubble of enchantment in the depths of winter. Not just Christmas markets, but sparking streets, fabulous shop window displays, ice skating rinks and carousels - Paris puts on all its finery for the festive season. I hope we’ve got you in the Christmas mood now – I think I’m going to go and put my Christmas tree up after this! 

Janine: Me too! Thanks so much for joining us on this Enchanted Noël journey through France’s Christmas markets and festivals and please do join me on Instagram where I’ll be sharing photos and videos of my festive jaunts through France – the Christmas markets of Alsace, the beautifully decorated castles of the Loire Valley and the sparkling villages of Provence, and the twinkling streets of Paris. You’ll find me at instagram.com/thegoodlifefrance.

Oli: Thank you so much, a massive merci beaucoup, to everyone for listening to our podcast nearly 150 countries all around the world! And a massive thank you for sharing the podcast with your friends and family, we’re truly grateful when you do that. You’ve been listening to Janine Marsh and me Olivier Jauffrit. 

Janine: And you can find me  and heaps of information about France – where to visit, culture, history, recipes – everything France - at thegoodlifefrance.com where you can subscribe to the podcast, my weekly newsletter about France and our totally brilliant, totally free magazine which you can read at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com 

But for now, it’s au revoir from me.

Olivier: And goodbye from me.

Janine: Speak to you soon!