An Englishman in Latvia
An Englishman in Latvia
On Cēsis
Nestled in the heart of Latvia’s Gauja National Park, the small but historically significant town of Cēsis offers a wealth of fascinating stories spanning over eight centuries. With its medieval castle ruins, cobblestone streets, and rich cultural heritage, Cēsis blends history, architecture, legends, and living traditions.
Join me as we visit and explore Cēsis.
Thanks for listening!
On Cēsis
Nestled in the heart of Latvia’s Gauja National Park, the small but historically significant town of Cēsis offers a wealth of fascinating stories spanning over eight centuries. With its medieval castle ruins, cobblestone streets, and rich cultural heritage, Cēsis blends history, architecture, legends, and living traditions.
Join me as we visit and explore Cēsis.
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The story of Cēsis begins on the 18-metre-high Riekstu hill, where the earliest settlement was established by a Baltic tribe known as the Vends in the 9th century. This wooden hill fort was strategically positioned near major trade routes from west to east, dominating the surrounding countryside. The fortified settlement marks the original birthplace of what would become one of Latvia’s most historically significant towns.
The town’s importance dramatically increased when German crusaders, the Livonian Brothers of the Sword, began constructing a stone castle near the hill fort in 1209. They called it Wenden, and it would become a central power base for their conquest and Christianisation efforts in the Baltic region. The formal planning of the town itself was undertaken in the second half of the 13th century, with a marketplace and church established at its centre.
Perhaps most significantly for Latvian national identity, it is widely believed that the flag of Latvia originates from Cēsis. According to the Livonian Rhymed Chronicle, the armed forces of Cēsis Castle carried a maroon-white-maroon flag during a battle near Riga in 1279, providing the colour scheme for what would later become the national flag of Latvia.
The Latvian flag's origin is perhaps Cēsis's most celebrated cultural contribution. Legend says this flag was created when a wounded Latvian leader was wrapped in a white cloth that became stained with his blood on both sides. The clean strip in the middle remained white, creating the distinctive pattern that would become Latvia's national symbol — one of the oldest flags in the world.
The first flag of independent Latvia was presented to the Cēsis Regiment in 1919 and displayed in the New Castle in Cēsis. Standing before it, visitors often feel a profound connection to Latvia's struggle for nationhood.
Cēsis isn't just historically significant — it's considered "the cradle of Latvian national identity", a title it wears with pride and responsibility.
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The imposing Cēsis Medieval Castle is one of the mightiest medieval Livonian fortresses and one of Latvia's most impressive castle ruins today. Construction of the stone castle started in 1213. However, after the Livonian Brothers suffered a crushing defeat against Lithuanian forces, they merged with the powerful Teutonic Order in 1237. Under this new leadership, Cēsis Castle underwent massive reconstruction and expansion.
The castle's golden age came under the leadership of Wolter von Plettenberg between 1494 and 1535. As Master of the Livonian Order, he transformed Cēsis Castle into an architectural marvel with three artillery towers and enhanced fortifications, making it one of the Order's most formidable strongholds. Serving as the Master’s main residence, it was a centre of power where the regional landlords made all their important decisions.
But history took a dark turn in 1577 during the Livonian War. Ivan the Terrible of Russia, determined to gain access to the Baltic Sea, laid siege to Cēsis Castle. What happened next is one of the most tragic episodes in European history. As Russian forces breached the outer defences, approximately 300 people inside — locals and German nobles alike—made an unimaginable choice. Rather than surrender, they gathered in the castle's powder magazine and chose collective suicide, detonating the gunpowder and bringing down significant portions of the castle with them.
Recent archaeological discoveries continue to reveal new chapters in the castle’s history. During a recent inspection of a previously hidden spiral staircase in the South Tower, researchers discovered a stone bearing a unique inscription from the second half of the 16th century. Written in Latin and German, it represents “the oldest, culturally and historically most significant inscription in stone to have survived at Cēsis Castle”.
Rumours about a network of underground tunnels connecting Cēsis Castle with key locations in the town have long fascinated locals and visitors alike. According to historical accounts, during the 16th century, Swedish forces knew of three underground passages leading out of the castle: one to a nearby hill, another to Araisi (8 km away), and a third to Cesvaine (75 km away). These passages were crucial for supplying the castle during sieges, such as the seven-year siege by Russian troops. While there are stories of underground passages, including one leading from the castle to St. John’s Church, these have not been fully excavated or confirmed. Excavations in the 1920s and 1970s uncovered some underground structures, but the extent of these tunnels remains speculative. Despite the lack of concrete evidence, the legend of these escape routes continues to captivate the imagination of those interested in Cēsis’s rich history.
The following centuries after the Livonian War brought multiple rulers — Poles, Swedes, and finally Russians as part of the Russian Empire. Through it all, Cēsis remained resilient. When Latvia fought for independence in the early 20th century, the town played a crucial role in the 1919 Battle of Cēsis, where Estonian and Latvian forces defeated German troops. This victory was so significant that the 23rd of June is still celebrated as Victory Day in Estonia.
Since Latvia regained independence in 1991, Cēsis has embraced its historical legacy while evolving into a vibrant cultural centre. Today, the medieval ruins stand alongside carefully preserved 18th and 19th-century buildings, creating a living timeline of Latvian history.
Today, visitors can explore the atmospheric castle ruins. There is a treasure trail for children; ask for the trail map when you pay for entrance tickets. There are also many stone steps to climb. It is worth the effort. You can visit the Western Tower and the master's living room, which still features a luxurious brick star vault from the 16th century that has survived five centuries of war, weather, and time.
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The best way to see Cēsis is to walk. The town is relatively compact, but many streets are cobbled, so wear comfortable footwear. The medieval layout of Cēsis has remarkably survived through the centuries, with ancient road networks and building plots preserved, though many original buildings have been lost to time and conflict. Walking through Cēsis today, visitors experience an authentic blend of historical periods, from medieval ruins to elegant 18th and 19th-century structures.
The town’s architectural highlights include St. John’s Church, built between 1281 and 1284, with its floor still covered in Livonian Order knight plaques, and the New Castle, constructed in 1777 where the gate fortifications once stood, now houses the Cēsis History and Art Museum, one of Latvia’s oldest provincial museums.
Wandering the cobblestone streets reveals charming wooden buildings with faded cream, salmon, and coral exteriors topped with tiled roofs. In autumn, apple orchards throughout the town burst with bright red fruits, adding to the picturesque atmosphere that feels almost frozen. Lovely fountains also spring up from street level in Rose Square, the former medieval open marketplace. In summer, of course! This wouldn’t be Latvia without food and drink. Many restaurants and cafes spring up on the cobbled streets in summer. Take your time, soak up the atmosphere and refresh yourselves. While in Cēsis, try the local beer. Cēsu Alus was established in 1590, making it probably the oldest brewery in the Baltic States. Yes, even a beer in Cēsis is full of history - centuries of brewing tradition, in fact! The original brewery was located in Cēsis Castle and later moved to the third forecastle in the early 17th century. In 1878, the historic brewery buildings were constructed under Count Emanuel von Sievers’ ownership. The brewery was nationalised in 1940 and re-established as an industrial beer producer in 1976. After privatisation in 1995, it became part of the Finnish Olvi Group in 1999. Today, the brewery operates as a modern facility with a new plant opened in 2001 on the outskirts of Cēsis. It is the largest brewery in Latvia.
You can’t just drink, of course! In Cēsis, traditional dishes are prominent on local menus. Try pīrāgi — bacon-filled pastries that make perfect walking snacks as you explore the old town. Ziemnieku zupa, or Farmer's Soup, combines smoked pork, potatoes, and seasonal vegetables into a filling meal that's especially welcome after a day of castle exploration. Save room for dessert, particularly medus kūka — a honey cake with roots in ancient brewing traditions. Of course!
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Cēsis maintains a vibrant cultural life that honours its historical legacy while embracing contemporary artistic expression. Since the late 19th century, the town has developed into a significant centre for art, culture, and leisure events in the Vidzeme region and throughout Latvia. The town features the Vidzeme Concert Hall, a contemporary venue that hosts music, arts, theatre, and cinema performances throughout the year. The former manor coach house has been beautifully restored as the Cēsis Exhibition Hall, with its preserved wooden elements creating a unique atmosphere for art exhibitions and musical events. This blending of historical architecture with contemporary artistic purposes exemplifies how Cēsis has evolved while maintaining its historical character.
One of the most beloved traditions is the annual Cēsis Town Fair, a summer celebration that showcases over eight hundred years of Latvian history and traditions. The festival begins with a charming ritual - an orchestra marches through the town’s streets early in the morning to “awaken” the townspeople, a tradition that repeats yearly. The fair transforms the entire town into a living museum, with street stalls selling antiques, hand-stitched lace, and carved wooden bowls. The castle grounds host a medieval market, while various stages feature performances ranging from classical music by schoolchildren to modern BMX competitions. As darkness falls on the festival’s main day, everyone gathers in Rozu Park for a magical lantern-lit procession through the town, creating a spectacle that connects present-day residents with centuries of tradition.
Every year, Cēsis hosts many cultural events. The Cēsis Medieval Festival is held one summer weekend, in which the castle grounds and old town become a living medieval tapestry. Knights in full armour clash in tournaments, craftspeople demonstrate forgotten techniques, and market stalls offer authentic food and drink. The sound of period instruments fills the air as performers in historical dress bring the 13th century vividly back to life. We experienced this one year. It was kind of fun!
The LAMPA festival will return on the weekend of 21st - 22nd June 2025. We went to this a couple of years ago. It brings together thought leaders, creatives, and the public for discussions, performances, and workshops. It serves as a platform for exploring contemporary social, cultural, and political issues, while encouraging open dialogue and innovation. The festival is known for its vibrant atmosphere, offering a mix of talks, interactive activities, and artistic performances. Many people enjoyed the festival when we participated, and some discussions were in English.
Cēsis is Latvia's Cultural Capital in 2025. The website cesis2025.lv has five pages of events covering the year! The big one looks to be the “Cēsis 819” festival, celebrating Cēsis being 819 years old, with a festival weekend comprising concerts, sports competitions, a traditional parade, children’s activities and one big party. All on 18th - 20th July 2025!
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Interestingly, Cēsis was also developed as a health resort in the past. Upmarket summer houses and health centres were built near the Gauja River, with ‘Cīrulīši’ near the Svētavots (Holy Spring) Cave being particularly notable. This spring was believed to possess healing powers, attracting visitors seeking therapeutic benefits. This wellness tradition continues today with the Nordic Museum of Natural Medicine, which explores the healing properties of plants and offers visitors a chance to learn about natural remedies.
Natural wonders complement these human stories. The Gauja River has carved a valley of striking beauty around Cēsis, with sandstone outcrops and caves dating back millions of years. The Svētavots or "Holy Spring" near Cēsis has been considered sacred since pre-Christian times, with water believed to have healing properties.
My tip. Go and find the Cīrulīšu nature trails. The cliffs and caves on the southern side of the Gauja River are beautiful. Take the P14 road west out of Cēsis towards Stalbe. Just before the bridge over the Gauja, turn left and park. Then walk past a campsite alongside the river. There are routes to follow and a nature trail. Remember to take a picture of the route map on the display board. Then you will find many caves. It is hilly, so good footwear is advised.
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Cēsis is easy to get to if you live in or visit Latvia. An hour and a quarter away on the new Vivi trains from Riga central station, or about an hour and a half by car from Riga. With Cēsis being Latvia’s cultural capital for 2025, this is the year to visit, or visit again.
Cēsis embodies what makes Latvia special — resilience through centuries of change, pride in cultural heritage, and warm hospitality that welcomes visitors as friends. Whether you're drawn by the dramatic history, cultural significance, natural beauty, or simply the authentic experience of a Latvian town that balances preservation with progress, Cēsis rewards every visitor with memorable experiences. Let this ancient town tell you its stories.
[Image of Cēsis castle painted using the Cinemin app. Music by Vlad Bakutov on Pixabay]
