An Englishman in Latvia
I first lived in Latvia as a diplomat from 1996-99, a few years after Latvia regained independence from the crumbling Soviet Union. I returned to live in Latvia in 2022. This storytelling podcast combines history with things you can see and experience in Latvia today, together with my personal anecdotes.
An Englishman in Latvia
On the Latvija minibus
The RAF Latvija was a Soviet-era minibus. Externally, it looks remarkably similar to the iconic Volkswagen Type 2 van. The story of its production offers us an insight into manufacturing during the Soviet era. The Latvija became a symbol of communal mobility, serving as a marshrutka - a minibus on a set route, or used as an unofficial taxi, and its drivers and passengers share many poignant experiences. Join me and jump aboard a Latvija minibus.
Thanks for listening!
On the Latvija minibus
The RAF Latvija was a Soviet-era minibus. Externally, it looks remarkably similar to the iconic Volkswagen Type 2 van. The story of its production offers us an insight into manufacturing during the Soviet era: transport innovation, design inspiration cum copying, and mass production challenges in a state-controlled economy. The Latvija became a symbol of communal mobility, serving as a marshrutka - a minibus on a set route, or used as an unofficial taxi, and its drivers and passengers share many poignant experiences. Join me and jump aboard a Latvija minibus.
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Picture the scene. We are in the 1960s in sunny California in the States, or the equally sunny Gold Coast of Australia, or the more unpredictable weather in Cornwall in England. The surfing scene is big, and we are listening to the Beach Boys' hits on the stereo. Hippie culture is popular. To go with the trend, we need a Volkswagen Type 2 campervan. A classic. The VW Type 2 was actually a hard-working van. Used by delivery drivers and minibus drivers. Not just hippies. Latvia, as part of the Soviet Union, wanted some of that action.
The Riga Autobus Factory was established in 1949 on the premises of the Riga auto repair plant No.2, marking the Soviet Union’s first concerted effort to produce light commercial vehicles. Originally named the Riga Experimental Bus Factory in 1955, that does sound hippy-like, the enterprise adopted the abbreviation RAF. It began by building GAZ-51 chassis-based buses with wooden and metal bodies before venturing into smaller multipurpose vehicles. Basically, these were medium-capacity buses for the transportation of people, made by putting a "hut" - a body - on a truck chassis.
The impetus to develop a novel minibus emerged from the Ministry of Soviet Automotive Industry and its recognition of a market gap between taxis and full-size buses, particularly for flexible route services and emergency ambulances. Inspired by a Volkswagen Type 2 observed by RAF engineer Laimonis Klēge at the 1955 Geneva Motor Show, the Soviet Ministry were persuaded to buy a Type 2, and RAF received the vehicle for reverse engineering, setting the design trajectory for Soviet minibuses.
Latvia’s industrial landscape during the early Cold War was shaped by Soviet priorities, with large-scale enterprises allocated across the union to reinforce logistical capabilities. The RAF facility served not only as a vehicle production site but also as a demonstration of Soviet industrial prowess, showcasing how Western designs could be adapted to serve socialist objectives. Though initial prototypes were modest, the government’s emphasis on centralised planning ensured steady resources for further development and eventual mass production, even as local engineers navigated bureaucratic resistance and technical constraints.
The RAF-977 represented the first mass-produced Soviet minibus, with serial production launching in 1959 under the provisional name Festival before rapidly adopting the “Latvija” badge on its front grille and side panels. No one knows why it was called the Latvija, beyond the obvious fact that it was designed and manufactured in Latvia. Its architecture combined Volkswagen-inspired body styling with a front-mounted, low-compression 2,445 cc GAZ-21 Volga engine, accessible via an interior hatch between the front seats. It was paired with Volga-derived components for transmission, axles, and steering. Despite the absence of a dedicated conveyor belt, early assemblies relied on manual jigs and worker expertise, resulting in a steady trickle of vehicles rather than actual mass production. This pattern persisted until the late 1960s.
Over its production life from 1958 to 1976, the factory introduced at least sixteen variations of the model, encompassing standard passenger marshrutka configurations, freight vans, mail distribution vehicles, and specialised ambulances. The experimental road train variant, designed for amusement parks, exemplified RAF’s willingness to explore niche applications despite resource constraints, while export agreements extended the RAF-977’s presence to allied nations beyond the Soviet Union.
The RAF-977’s lowered service door with an added step facilitated rapid boarding, a crucial adaptation for the marshrutka system where vehicles departed only once full and fares were collected in advance by passengers seated near the driver. Ambulance variants bore the Cyrillic Russian inscription “Emergency Medical Care” alongside prominent red cross symbols, marking a transformative expansion of Soviet emergency response capabilities in both urban and rural areas.
Anecdotes from the era reveal both the minibus’s endearing charm and its notorious flaws. Drivers would sometimes fry eggs on the engine cover inside the cabin during long waits - remember, the engine is inside the vehicle, not under the front bonnet - while passengers braced themselves against sudden door openings during tight turns, stories that have become woven into the collective memory of Soviet motorists.
In response to growing demand and the need for modernisation, RAF inaugurated a new production facility in Jelgava in 1976 to manufacture the RAF-2203 “Latvija”, a cabover van optimised for interior space and driver visibility.
A whole village was built in Jelgava to accommodate the workers and their families. The RAF factory in Jelgava was the fourth largest enterprise in the Soviet Union, with 4000 staff. The model used a ZMZ GAZ-24 2,445 cc petrol engine delivering approximately 95 hp, mated to a four-speed manual transmission and rear-wheel drive, affording the vehicle sufficient power for both urban marshrutka routes and emergency service tasks. Measuring nearly five meters in length with a curb weight of around 1,670 kg, the 2203 could seat up to eleven occupants, combining a dedicated driver compartment with nine passenger seats and rear luggage space in most configurations. Compared to its predecessor, the RAF-2203 featured improved body rigidity, a flatter passenger floor, and refined door mechanisms to help get in and out, reflecting lessons learned from two decades of marshrutka operations. Nevertheless, chronic shortages of qualified labour and critical machinery led to persistent quality control issues, with engineers frequently reassigned to assembly work and supply chain bottlenecks resulting in days when entire production batches were scrapped. When Perestroika reforms stripped the factory of the Soviet state quality mark in 1986, it signalled both a reputational blow and the beginning of the end for RAF’s dominance in minibus production.
Production continued until 1997, with the minibus adapted for medical, trade, and special services before RAF’s operations ceased amid post-Soviet supply chain disruptions and competition from Western and Russian manufacturers. The last factory van produced was a hearse ordered by the city of Moscow. How appropriate!
Despite all the deficiencies, RAF produced 300,000 Latvija-branded vans over 36 years. The RAF-2203’s characteristic engine note and distinctive cabover profile endured in the public imagination long after production halted.
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What was it like to drive?
The RAF Latvija transcended its utilitarian origins to become a cultural phenomenon, emblematic of Soviet communal travel and improvisational resilience. Branded affectionately as “Rafik” in Russian or “Rafiņš” in Latvian, the vehicle’s name entered colloquial use to denote any marshrutka, underscoring its ubiquity across Eastern Bloc cities and its central role in people mobility.
Drivers carved their own reputations through daring urban manoeuvres, zigzagging between stalled traffic and stopping anywhere along fixed routes, demonstrating both entrepreneurial zeal and the unofficial freedom of marshrutka operations.
While living in Moscow in the 1980s, I didn’t have a car. If coming home late at night - I was only 21 - I would hail a passing vehicle. Not a marshrutka but someone engaging in a bit of free enterprise. Once I was picked up by an ambulance, a RAF Latvija; luckily, there weren’t any patients in the back. It was a way of making a little extra money. More recently, in the 2000s, I was doing some training at the British Embassy in Moscow. They had arranged for a taxi to pick me up in the evening and take me to the railway station, followed by a short train ride to the airport and the British Airways plane. The taxi didn’t turn up. Fearing that I would miss the flight, I did the old thing and went to the ring road to stick my upturned thumb out. Very soon, a lady in a small red Zhiguli stopped, and we agreed on the fare and the need for speed. I have never been driven so fast in a small, old car, in the fast lane on Moscow’s ring road! I made the train and my flight.
Meanwhile, back in Soviet Union Latvia, communal stories about doctor-piloted ambulances racing through snow-covered streets or families squeezing together for city commutes highlight the minibus’s integration into social life.
Operator testimonials highlight the RAF-2203’s surprisingly nimble handling for a vehicle of its size, with drivers citing its compact turning radius and direct steering as assets in congested urban streets. The carbureted ZMZ engine came in two variants, ZMZ-2401 running on AI-76 low-octane petrol and the more powerful ZMZ-402-10 using AI-93 high-octane petrol, allowing the minibus to reach speeds of 120–130 km/h under optimal conditions, a respectable performance for a late-1970s Eastern Bloc design.
However, RAF Latvija minibuses suffered from significant uneven weight distribution problems. This was particularly problematic because the RAF-2203 had a front-mounted engine positioned between the front seats. When empty or lightly loaded, this front-heavy configuration created handling challenges, especially in adverse weather conditions. Drivers discovered that placing heavy objects like manhole covers or concrete blocks in the rear cargo area helped balance out uneven weight distribution. By adding weight to the rear, it helped counteract the front-heavy bias by improving traction on the rear drive wheels, reducing the tendency for the rear end to become unstable during cornering, providing better balance during braking and acceleration and helping prevent the front end from overwhelming the steering in poor driving conditions.
This makeshift solution became so widespread among RAF operators that it became part of the vehicle’s folklore, representing both the ingenuity of Soviet-era drivers and the persistent quality issues that plagued the RAF factory’s production throughout its operational years.
Comfort was often secondary to function; oilcloth seats, minimal sound insulation, and a high centre of gravity meant that both driver and passengers were acutely aware of every road imperfection and engine vibration. Makeshift solutions, or jury-rigged repairs during long intercity runs, reflect the improvisational spirit that defined the RAF driving experience.
My uncle had an orange VW Type 2 van when I was a boy. Volkswagen’s air-cooled flat-four is positioned at the rear, unlike the RAF Latvija, driving the rear wheels. It’s an elegantly simple, uncluttered design that maximises load space, optimises traction and front-rear balance while minimising engine noise and negating the need for a radiator, propshaft, or full-length exhaust system. It didn’t have power steering, so muscles were needed to turn the steering wheel while manoeuvring from the start.
I drive a Mercedes MarcoPolo campervan. A modern interpretation of the classic VW and the Latvija, featuring a pop-up roof, a fold-out awning, and all kinds of mod cons. The vehicle size is similar to that of the RAF Latvija. But with a V6 3-litre engine, it is a lot more powerful!
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How can you see a Latvija minibus? Visit the Riga Motor Museum!
The Riga Motor Museum is located at Bruno Sergeja Eizenšteina iela 8 on the outskirts of Rīga, a 20-minute drive or about an hour by public transport from the centre of Rīga. It prominently features the RAF legacy. You can see a beautifully restored RAF-977E from 1963, a green colour scheme deluxe model with sunroof and a top speed of 110 kph. Next to it is a RAF-2907 built for the Moscow Olympics in 1980 to follow the Olympic torch to Moscow (and have a spare one lit inside, just in case, hence it has a chimney on the roof of the van!). This model had a top speed of 120 kph. A touch faster. Bit of history. Although the games were Olympiad, they were boycotted by the US and around 60 other countries because Russia invaded Afghanistan. Despite the boycott, 80 nations competed, and some delegations used the Olympic flag and anthem instead of their national symbols to get around their country’s boycott. Forty years later, some things haven’t changed around participation at the Olympics!
Next to it is the RAF-M2 Stils, a concept car made in 1993, decked out as an ambulance. The museum’s restorer let on that this concept model didn’t actually have a motor. I got the feeling that he really didn’t like the vehicle. Last is the RAF-2802 Elektro. A 1982 electric van. The battery took at least a quarter of the interior space. You can see the battery hatch on the side of the van and a large wooden box inside to hold the battery securely. The van has neat concertina-style opening rear doors. The restorer told me that this model was used to transport Politburo leaders around the Black Sea resorts. It only has a top speed of 60 kph, but at that time, it was regarded as the latest technology. In a closed area, the restorer also showed me a specially-built Latvija used to move athletes around the 1980 Olympics, and later, to transport paying passengers for a trip around Mežaparks. It is cut down, like a lorry’s cab, and pulled a long train behind it with rows of seats.
In 2021, the museum acquired the oldest known RAF-977V Latvija model, which dates back to 1960. The minibus was found in an advert on a Chilean website, and its transportation to Latvia took a year and a half due to the pandemic. The restorer told me that it was one of seven Latvijas given by the Soviet Union to Chile in 1960 to help with the Great Chilean Earthquake relief. This 9.5 Richter scale earthquake was the strongest ever recorded, and as well as the destruction of Chile, tsunamis were recorded in Hawaii, Japan and the Phillipines. At the time, diplomatic relations between Chile and the Soviet Union had been broken since 1947, but the minibuses helped to restore relations in 1964, even as Chile remained aligned with the US in the 1960s. This Latvija model is now at the Motor Museum’s second museum in Bauska. On my list to visit, as it has quite a history and story!
The museum in Rīga is a great experience. Lots of interactive displays in English as well as Latvian. Three floors of amazing vehicles, many of which have a connection to Latvia. The staff are super helpful in answering questions, and in my case, they even called the restorer to come and talk to me. A fun element, especially for younger folk, is to add different body colour schemes to a real Latvija van. Projectors help, of course! You can also buy a T-shirt with a cutaway diagram of the Latvija for all of Euro 9 for an adult size. Yes, I got one. Bargain souvenir!
Another way to literally experience driving in a Latvija is to take the one-hour tour of the delightful old mill village of Līgatne in a 1991 RAF-2203. The tours are available between May and October. This bright yellow van spent 20 years in a garage in Lithuania before being restored and hitting the road again as a tour bus in 2023. Best to book a day in advance of your visit. Details are easily found in English at retroture.lv on the internet.
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The Latvija minibus’s symbolic legacy and its appeal to global vintage vehicle enthusiasts with its Latvian identity underscores the Latvija’s journey from industrial workhorse to cultural icon. It is also a piece of Soviet manufacturing history. Made in Latvia. With so many wonderful stories. Go find one!
[Image by An Englishman in Latvia, sound clips from the 1989 RAF-2203 Latvija commercial, surfing music from Pixabay]