My wife recently shared an episode of the ABC’s Foreign Correspondent, and said I had to watch it. It was called Celtic Waves, with reporter Sean Murphy tracing his ancestral Irish roots to a place that’s become globally renowned for its big wave surfing. Anyway, yes, the surf is amazing, and the people who pioneered it, but it was when Sean met the daughter of one such pioneer, and introduced her as a pioneering ‘marine sociologist’ that my interest was really piqued. Then after listening to her speak, I just had to reach out to invite her on the podcast.

Easkey Britton has continued her family legacy, becoming a legendary surfer in her own right – from being the only kid surfing in her area, to later becoming a 5x national champion and the first woman to surf the huge wave at Mullaghmore, to inspiring and guiding more women and girls into the sport, even where you might least expect it (think Iran). 

For her, though, it’s always been much more than a sport. Her PhD, best-selling books and immersive ocean retreats are all about our deeper connections with water, and its power to revive old stories, places and kinships, that heal and inspire. 

And for Easkey, it all turned on a decision her grandmother made. And an impromptu moment of crazy, or brave, or maybe flow state. With some key mentor presences along the way, including one we share. That's where we start.

Chapter markers & transcript.

Recorded 17 July 2026.

Easkey riding a giant wave in her 2014 Ride of the Year Entry.

You can listen to my conversation with the late Manchán Magan (that I still hear from listeners about) in episode 173 (or the tribute from the start of this year, which includes the last 25 minutes or so from that original episode, in episode 290). And with Tyson Yunkaporta in episode 70.

Music: 

Ocean sounds by Charles Rose.

Regeneration, by Amelia Barden.

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