The Rise of Kingston

From its humble beginnings as part of a private estate to a Parish and Capital City of a Nation.  This is the epic transformation of Kingston, Jamaica.

Transcript

Presently, in 2023, Jamaica is divided into 14 parishes, but this was not always so.  Maps dating back to when the island was a Spanish territory to present day show changing boundaries and evolving names of regions in Jamaica.  These maps illustrate as little as 7 regions and balloon up to as many as 22 parishes at one time, even including areas that read “unnamed”.

Welcome to Small Excellence where I discuss various nations around the world.  I'm your host Ngai.  If you enjoy this podcast, please subscribe and share.  Also take a look at the Small Excellence website at www.smallexcellence.com; that address again is www. S m a l l e x c e l l e n c e .com.  This season we are speaking about my homeland, Jamaica.  In this episode, I will be discussing Kingston, the Capital.

Under Spain, Jamaica was divided into 8 regions and by 1844 the island had 22 parishes.  Port Royal, St. George, St. David, Metcalfe, St. Dorothy, Vere, St. John and St. Thomas in the Vale were the names of the 8 additional parishes.  These 8 parishes disappeared from the maps of Jamaica as follows:
 
 

o   The parish of Port Royal was divided between the parishes of Kingston and Saint Andrew

o   St. George was divided between St. Mary and Portland

o   St. David melded into St. Thomas

o   Metcalfe is now part of St. Mary

o   The parish of St. Dorothy is now part of St. Catherine

o   Vere is now part of Clarendon

o   St. John is absorbed into St. Catherine

o   Finally, there is St. Thomas in the Vale which was combined with the parish of St. Catherine

However, since 1866 the number of parishes has remained at 14, with Kingston being both the capital city of Jamaica as well as the country’s smallest parish at approximately 10 mi². 

Interestingly enough, prior to 1692, Kingston, Jamaica did not exist.  In fact, the original land on which Kingston was established is from a portion of land owned by Sir William Beeston called Colonel Barry’s Hog Crawle and it is here that the island’s present-day capital “city [originates] eventually becoming the center of trade, manufacturing, and shipping for the entire nation” (https://www.blackpast.org/global-african-history/places-global-african-history/kingston-jamaica-1692/) as well as the largest, most populated city in Jamaica.

Port Royal, a vibrant, rich part of the island was devastated by a massive earthquake in 1692.  The survivors took refuge on the other side of Kingston Harbor in an area called Liguanea Plain.  It is during this time that Sir Beeston’s attorney, Nicholas Lawes, sells Hog Crawle, which is approximately 200 acres, to the government for £1000 for the purpose of creating a new town, Kingston.  By July 1692, a surveyor, John Goffe created the grid plans for the town of Kingston along with the terms for acquiring land.  Nonetheless, the grand plans for the town of Kingston were hindered by the disinterest of residents hoping for Port Royal’s opulent return.  That dream, however, of Port Royal’s second act disappears when the town suffers further destruction via the fire of 1703.  Seizing upon this tragedy as an opportunity to get the town of Kingston launched “a law was passed declaring Kingston to be the chief seat of trade and head port of entry into the island. From this moment on, the prosperity of Kingston was assured, and in 1713 it was declared by law that the place should forever be taken and esteemed as an entire and distinct parish with all the powers of any other parish and that…it should have the right of sending three representatives to the Assembly.” (https://www.nlj.gov.jm/history-notes/History%20of%20Kingston%20&%20St.%20Andrew.pdf).  At this time Spanish Town was the country’s official capital; it had good level land, good infrastructure, and very good buildings, but it had one drawback, it didn’t have a port. Without a port it was not commercially viable enough as a capital city since international trade would be difficult. Kingston on the other hand has a fantastic harbor which was partially enclosed by the Port Royal strip of land prior to the great earthquake of 1692. In fact, Kingston Harbor is said to be one of the seven finest natural harbors in the world.

It is Admiral Charles Knowles, Governor of Jamaica from 1752 to 1756, who first endorsed the idea of Kingston as the island’s capital for the previously mentioned attributes along with it having a population of 26,478, large for the time.  Assembly men from Kingston and the eastern portion of the island strongly supported Kingston as the capital while those in Spanish Town and the western part of the island opposed the idea.  Although many did not share this viewpoint due to the city’s young age in comparison to Spanish Town’s title of capital for 230 years at the time.  Governor Knowles sent papers to England to have Kingston made the capital of Jamaica by law, in an attempt to find resolution on the matter.  The request was denied in 1758 by King George II during the governorship of Henry Moore.  About 100 years passed before the Jamaican government ratified an act in 1872 officially relocating the government offices from Spanish Town to Kingston, formally making it the island’s administrative capital.  By this time Kingston had eclipsed Spanish Town commercially, “the population of Kingston…rapidly [increased]; [and] its location was said to be more in touch with the outside world through shipping” (https://www.nlj.gov.jm/history-notes/History%20of%20Kingston%20&%20St.%20Andrew.pdf).

During the 100 plus years of lobbying to be Jamaica’s capital, Kingston underwent major transformations to support the city’s population growth.  For example, in 1842, the city received its first public water supply, from the Hope River.  Although the water was dirty and unfiltered, this public service initiative supplied approximately one thousand six hundred homes with running water; an impressive step towards urbanization. Three years after that development, a railway to Spanish Town opened on November 21st, 1845, making Jamaica the first Western nation with a railroad system.  By the mid-1800s, a coaling station, basically a fueling station, was established near the foot of East Street.  This meant that steamships, also known as steamers, would now dock and resupply at Kingston on their way to Central and South America, and both the ships’ crews and passengers could go on shore and spend money in the city.  Lastly, in 1881 the West Indies Telegraph and Telephone Company Ltd. introduced the first telephone service to Kingston.  The system was so state-of-the-art that its design was copied by AT&T for application in the United States (www.jamaicans.com).  In the meantime, many surrounding townships were added to the Kingston municipality such as Rae Town, Brown’s Town, Lindo’s Town, Hannah Town, and Smith Village (now West Kingston) along with the suburbs of Fletcher’s Town, Kingston Gardens, Allman Town, Franklin Town, and Passmore Town; all of which adhered to the original geometric design of Goffe’s urban development plan.  Due to its small size some of the communities of Kingston were spilling over into the adjacent Parish of St. Andrew.

By 1923 the original Kingston Parish consisting of the old downtown and Port Royal merged administratively with the parish of St. Andrew, and the municipality became known as Kingston and St. Andrew Corporation (KSAC) with a combined area of 185 mi².  KSAC is the most industrial area on the island and has a thriving economy and is home to about 40% of the island’s population with 1.2 million people as of 2019.  A high percentage of the country’s population gravitates to the capital for employment opportunities.  Many of Jamaica’s best schools, and cultural representations – museums, theaters, etc. are located in Kingston. 

While small in size Kingston is well designed. The downtown area is laid out in a block or quadrangular form. Because of this you can find your way around the city very easily and locate just about any place without difficulty. The layout of the city has streets and lanes running north-south alternately. It is said that the urban engineering of the city’s streets and lanes are rooted in the country’s slavery history.  The front entrances to homes were reserved for use by white people were located on streets while the back door entrances which are accessible on the lanes were to be utilized by non-whites and possibly whites of lower station. Suffice it to say that the streets were wide, and the lanes were narrow. 

Jamaica’s first public tram system was first introduced in 1876; it was started in Kingston and powered by horses.  By March 31, 1899 the system was completely transitioned to being electric powered. It went from Parade Square (Kingston) to Rae Town, 2 miles in the east, and from Parade Square to May Pen Cemetery, 1 mile to the west. In the north-south direction it went from Parade Square to as far as Constant Spring; this is about 6 miles north of downtown Kingston. The system was further extended to Rockfort, 3 to 4 miles in the east and from Parade Square to Papine, which is 6 miles in the northeast.

There is an understated sophistication to Kingston as it serves as one of the nation’s cultural hubs with its finger on the pulse of art, food, music, dance, and theatre.

A few places of note in KSAC are:

 Parade Square – originally the location of a Fortress to protect Kingston harbor in 1694.  By 1870 the fort is replaced by Victoria Park and later renamed to honor St. William Grant a labor leader and Black Nationalist.  Here you can find the Ward Theater, Kingston Parish Church, the tomb of Admiral Benbow, a commemorative soldiers’ plaque, Coke Memorial Church and bustling street vendor stalls here in the heart of downtown Kingston.

Devon House – The well-maintained former estate of George Stiebel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire who earned his wealth through mining gold in South America.  Built in the Georgian style architecture in 1881, the mansion was declared a national monument due to its historical relevance by the Jamaican National Heritage Trust in 1990.

Fort Charles (Port Royal) – This is one of the two historic forts built by the British in Port Royal after capturing Jamaica from the Spaniards. Its strategic location benefitted them by allowing the British full command of the entrance to Kingston Harbor. Fort Charles was built in 1656, at the time of its initial construction it was named Fort Cromwell, and it only had 36 guns. After the British captured it from the Spaniards they resized the fort to support 104 guns and more than 500 men.

Gordon House – also called George William Gordon House was built in 1960.  It is named after one of Jamaica’s National Heroes, George William Gordon and is located at 81 Duke Street close to the old parliament building headquarters. The house serves as the meeting place of both the Senate and the House of Representatives since independence on August 6, 1962.

The Institute of Jamaica (IOJ) – Founded in 1879 for the encouragement of Literature, Science and Art.  The institution was originally sponsored by Sir Anthony Musgrave, then governor of Jamaica. The IOJ, is Jamaica’s most significant cultural, artistic and scientific organization: serving as a patron and promoter of the arts in Jamaica, it sponsors just about all exhibitions and awards given in the country.  It houses and collects vestiges of Jamaica’s history and functions as both the country's museums authority as well as the foremost authority on the country’s national arts and culture.

National Heroes Park - This is a 50-acre botanical garden in Kingston, it was formerly a one-mile horse racing track called Kingston Race Course which was established in 1783. In 1953 a new track was constructed at Knutsford Park and the old track was converted into a public park renamed King George VI Memorial Park in honor of King George VI of Britain.  After Jamaica gained independence in 1962 the park was again renamed, National Heroes Park. This park has since been the home to monuments erected in honor of the island’s National Heroes, Prime Ministers and individuals of importance who have contributed to the country. Since 1969, the Order of National Hero award was established as a part of Jamaica’s system of honors.  The remains of Jamaica’s first National Hero, Marcus Garvey was the first to be laid to rest there in 1964.  

National Library of Jamaica - The National Library of Jamaica serves as a very important historical collector of Jamaican History. The library provides access to various collections dating back to the 1500s of Jamaican literature, maps, films, newspapers, photographs, and so much more. Its written collection includes information about Jamaica and/or notable Jamaicans.

St. Andrew Parish Church – This is one of Jamaica’s most historic buildings. It is located at the heart of Halfway Tree and was founded in 1664. The Church is one of the oldest churches in Jamaica, and has a rich musical tradition, and belongs to the dioceses of the Church of England. 

Kingston Parish Church - It is located in the heart of downtown Kingston, at the corner of South Parade and King Street since 1911.  The church is erected on the foundation of the original building which was destroyed in the earthquake of 1907. The clock tower was added after World War I in memory of those who died in the war. The Church’s alter is adorned with gifts from many Jamaican families who lived and served the church in the past. 

Jewish Cemetery - Initially established around 1661 in Port Royal.  This cemetery is an important landmark in the history of Jamaica as it is the oldest denominational cemetery in country and one of the oldest in the Western Hemisphere.  Following the earthquake of 1692 which destroyed Port Royal, many Jews left and formed a new burial site across the harbor at Hunts Bay which continued to receive burials into the early 1800s. More than fifty tombstones remain at Hunts Bay, but no burial registers remain.

Halfway Tree Court House - built in 1807, this historic building was occupied by imperial censors during the Second World War, it was also the venue for the second Junior Centre by the Institute of Jamaica. The building was not damaged by the earthquake of 1907, but it has been refurbished due to a storm in 1882 and is under the care and administration of St. Andrew Parish.

I hope that you have garnered some knowledge from this episode.  Walk good, my friends.