Since winning the International Woolmark Prize in 2014, Rahul Mishra has become India’s most celebrated designer, dressing celebrities including Zendaya, Freida Pinto and Viola Davis in his exquisitely embroidered and handcrafted designs. But it’s his belief in the power of fashion, and the way it can improve the lives of employees and connect people and places, that makes him truly one of a kind.
Since winning the International Woolmark Prize in 2014, Rahul Mishra has become India’s most celebrated designer, dressing celebrities including Zendaya, Freida Pinto and Viola Davis in his exquisitely embroidered and handcrafted designs. But it’s his belief in the power of fashion, and the way it can improve the lives of employees and connect people and places, that makes him truly one of a kind.
Hi, I'm Glynis Trail Nash, and welcome to In Fashion. Back in 2014, I was lucky to meet Indian designer Rahul Mishra, just after he won the International Woolmark Prize. From there, he is taken to the catwalks of Paris and dressed stars, including Zendaya, Gigi Hadid and Viola Davis. Earlier this year, his work was celebrated in the exhibition India in fashion at the new Nita eSSH and Barney Cultural Center in Mumbai, alongside designers, including John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen. What I've always loved when I speak with Rahul is his big picture take on fashion and the power of fashion, especially how it can impact the lives of workers for the better when done the right way. We recently caught up in Paris to record this podcast just two days before his show during Ur Couture week, and what a beautiful show it was. Rahul is a designer with a lot of heart, and I really hope you enjoy this episode of In Fashion.
GTN:Rahul, it's so wonderful to see you again. And here we are in Paris.
Rahul:Yeah, it's, it's great and wonderful to see you.
GTN:So we are speaking two days before your couture show at Paris or Couture Week, and I've just had a quick look through the collection that you've shown me. I mean, let's just start there, shall we? Tell me a little bit about the collection and it's so beautiful. There's a lot of people in this collection.
Rahul:So, uh, yeah, the idea started, when I was taking my flight back from Paris during last season. So I came across this news that India is gonna overtake as a most populous country in the world, China very soon. So always like we all have a mixed reaction about it because, you know, overpopulation means too much of stress and resources, too many people to feed, too many people to take care of. But, one has to also look at the bright side, that 40% India is very young. So it means like a large, you know, working population, which is working on development of the country, and that is what is happening right now. So I really thought about like, maybe that can be a very interesting subject So that's where we started thinking what people mean to us, as a brand, as a designer, and how people have shaped, you know, the brand's, DNA or brand's narrative since Woolmark prize. As you know, we are completely handmade, sustainable brand. We take care of, you know, a lot of employment. So in that way we, the people became far more fitting, you know, uh, tribute to the people we work with as a brand, as well as for the times we are living in.
GTN:I loved how you have your artisans literally weaving themselves and embroidering themselves into. The designs?
Rahul:Yeah, like so far the collection is super fun, uh, because most of the artisans, when they look at, when they have to make themself, they have got a beautiful, you know, smile on their faces. They sometimes tease each other and, uh, sometimes create a little bit of fun. And the environment is really beautiful in office back then and the atelier because, you know, they never thought something like this on clothes would be possible. And even I, I also had no idea how it's gonna come out, but yes. The collection is looking, you know, pretty good, pretty much in sync with, what we wanted to convey. And all the artisans, when they're making themself or stitching themself, their own representation in form of a caricature or a figurine, they are having a beautiful time. together with
GTN:us. I always loved how much of a storyteller you are with your collections. How important is that to you?
Rahul:I always believe a concept of story is like a sole of a garment. A world is filled with too many clothes. You know, you've got the fast fashion, you look out on the street, there are clothes everywhere, and our wardrobe are filled with clothes. So idea is like if I have to make clothes, if I have to make garments, there has to be a story. There has to be narrative, there has to be purpose behind those. So I always say brand stands for four Ps. First Ps. What is the purpose behind making that outfit? And the purpose follows a process. So process often is so slow that creates participation. And that is how a product is created. So for us it is very, very important. Like if we have to make another black garment or another silver or white garment, it has to solve a bigger purpose in terms of employment, taking care of environment, and at the same time, uh, also creates some sort of empowerment for the people who work on those clothes.
GTN:Hmm. Now you mentioned employment, and when we first met after you won the International Woolmark Prize, we were just saying before that in your excitement, you know, you were saying it was your goal to employ a million people in India. And already though, the last time we spoke, you already employed around a thousand people. How many do we employ now? Uh,
Rahul:around 1500 people. Okay. Are working, um, directly, indirectly with us, with the brand. And, uh, so it's like 1500 families their lives we touch. And, um, we are very proud of this fact that, you know, on personal level as well as on professional level, when we are to touch so many lives, like one of the oldest embroidery, I have started working with them 10 years back and. His schooling would've been filled till fourth of primary level. But when I saw right now, um, just two months back, he sent me the visa, uh, UK visa of his daughter. I. Who's going to study in London? Like I was, like, really? I felt really blessed that power of fashion is so great that it can change and touch so many lives. So this is what has been happening. And, uh, now the good news is like, uh, with one of the India's largest company, or one of the world's largest company, reli, we have, uh, done a deal together to create a sustainable rate wear brand. Uh, so that brand, uh, is going to further take care of a lot of employment. So I'm very, very sure that this number is gonna multiply really fast.
GTN:And when will that be unveiled? I think in September. Okay, amazing. Because you were doing ready to wear at the beginning. Yes. You know when we first met in 2014 when you won the International Walmart Prize. then you decided to change the idea of the basis of your business, didn't you? Yeah,
Rahul:actually, uh, when I was doing ready to wear every time. Every journalist, whenever WW d or anybody reviewed the collection, Suzy Menkes always said, like, it, your rate of work can easily qualify as, as au couture if it was presented during that calendar. So everybody pushed me, you know, uh, to do, au Couture Week in Paris. And that started in 2020, right before Covid. And 2020 March was my last showcasing at right where, and because of Covid for two years, everything almost stopped. Uh, we stopped receiving orders and so I really had a very good option to fall back upon a business call, you know, couture. Which really worked really well for us. So from 2020 now we have grown three times in our revenue just with Couture. So, wow. It was very, very, I think very natural, uh, calling. If we have to start something new with a big company, then ready to become a far better choice. A natural choice.
GTN:Yeah. Yeah. Now I, I'm always very fascinated with how designers first get that impetus to go into design, especially as I believe you have a physics degree.
Rahul:Yes.
GTN:how does one go from a physics degree to becoming a fashion designer? And what was the. What was that impetus that made you shift focus? I guess
Rahul:I think it's a typical thing about India. you know, uh, if you're good at studies, your father or your family always want you to be a, be a doctor or, or an engineer. Yeah. Or maybe going to. Administrative services. nobody wants like their son to be a Lady's tailor in India. So, you know, physics, everything was on Father's Choice. And I always say unfortunately, I was good at studies. So, uh, he really thought that I'm gonna waste my life trying to be an artist. So, after doing my graduation, because I just didn't enjoy it much, so I had to run away from my house. I went and lived with my sister in Delhi, and that is where I applied for fashion schools and design school. Finally got through design school, um, which is national instead of design. And then, yeah, I studied over there. I studied design. Then for fashion, came to Milan's Institute, Meran. I studied, uh, fashion over there, and now I'm still learning what fashion is all about.
GTN:Well, it's an ongoing process, isn't it? Yes. It's a lifelong process, a career long process. Now, as we've said, we first met when you'd won the Woolmark Prize in 2014. How significant was that for you at that time?
Rahul:I think Woolmark Prize. Had been the most significant thing, which has happened to my career very early on. I was, you know, five year old in business and, you know, getting opportunity like, like international Woolmark prize really defined my career. Now, today I'm sitting and talking to you. It's my 20th showcasing in Paris. So first showcasing started right after Woolmark Prize, so it was 2014 September. Now almost like nine years and almost like 20 showcases in Paris. So yeah, it has been a beautiful journey. And that too on calendar of the Paris Fashion Week, as well as Paris Kote Week. So Woolmark Prize has done a great deal, uh, you know, to my career. Although where I was during Ulma Prize, now, the business had become almost 20 times. And, um, with our business heads, everything coming together, the business looks like in next, uh, one, one and a half years at time, we are gonna make it four times.
GTN:So aside from, you know, your beautiful design work, I think one of the things I've always appreciated when speaking to you is that big picture vision for your brand and your business, um, because it is much more than fashion and business for you. And you've already touched on some of those points that the four P's. You also talk about the three E's, I believe.
Rahul:Yes. So three ees are always say like any product you think about designing anything you think about, even when you are making a purchase, think about how that, that piece, how the de season or whatever you want to do, how it can help environment, how it can encourage, you know, power, employment, and how can, can also empower somebody, empower a person, or, or it can create a, um, a kinda empowerment for, for pharma. So I think these three E's are most important. I think this is something which, which you can apply almost everywhere. Mm-hmm. And, uh, almost in every country. I think today when we look at business driven society, commerce driven society and every country is just chasing, uh, to, to create more and more G D P. But, uh, I think ultimately what boils down to a kind of sustainability in terms of culture, in terms of employment, also sustainability in terms of how we can look at. You know, a continuous process of growth, which is not challenged by our, you know, our greed and something which, which goes on and goes in improving with our capabilities. So that is where I think three is come into very, very beautifully. Yeah. So,
GTN:and what, uh, how, tell me a little bit about, you know, all of your employees and how your business works, because you do have the atelier, which is outside. Delhi, is that right? Yes, yes, yes. And then people also work from their homes, I understand.
Rahul:So? Uh, at at layer we are around 200 to 50 people, uh, and we take care of further employment of more than 1000 people. So what we started, like one of them Rer, who's also visiting Paris this time. I started working with him 2012. Before that, I used to only work with hand loom fabrics and my WMA collection was first collection and I collaborated with him on doing those kind embroideries. So his name is Alza, so Al ba we call him like ba is like, is like brother in, in Hindi. So Zer Bai, he started, his journey by leaving migrating. From his small little village, called Ur in West Bengal. He went to Mumbai. Mumbai lived in slum areas, and he became an embroider. Over there, he started earning a bit of money. Then he sent money back home. First thing which happens over Embroiders or anybody who leaves their village to a city. In such employment, they want to show to their neighbors in village that I'm doing well. There's only way of conveying that messages. You start saving money to build your own own house. When you build a house in village, the guy who's earning a city can never come and live over there. He is bound to live in a slum area. And then Alva has been doing embroidery for some of the largest brands on the planet, some of the biggest brand. So when I met him 2012, I asked him if he wants to go back to his village because I loved his house. His house was really beautiful, what he built for a appearance and the household locked for in the village household locked almost for 10, 15 years now. So he said, but who's gonna employ me over there? I said, I had no idea how it's gonna happen. I said, I think I take guarantee. I, I think, uh, of a business gonna grow. We are gonna grow together and wanting to go there. Video some of the workers for the relatives who can come with you and work with you. So he started to set up in the village. Now, There are more than 200 people we employ over there in that village, in the, in the village. And most of the people, they have reverse migrated from the slum areas. The problem with slum areas is there don't no certain sanitation. It's almost like, have you seen the movie The Slum Dog Millennial? Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. They live in those kind of conditions. They don't sanitation, there's no fresh water. Uh, they cook one meal at night, consume leftover as breakfast in the morning, and daytime, they just live on tea. And live with snack and all those kind of things. And they work over there. They live over there. It's not a best condition away from their families now in the village. They're living with their families. They're taking care of their old parents. They see their children grow in front of them. And for me, being with family, earning really well and taking care of your entire family and having homecooked food is like heaven. we don't value these things because, you know, sometimes you do not move away from family. That's why we stop valuing families. But I think, it is the most amazing thing, which could have happened to people. So that is what started. Now, we have also set up a few more in some more villages. So in total there are a thousand odd people from the villages we employ. And one more thing, which is there you have to earn double the amount in a city like Mob Mu Delhi, or three times amount to able to sustain certain. For me, the most important thing is sustainable wages. How beautifully people can sustain themself, how wages can bring about, their dreams. They want to have access to, good education for the family. They want to have access to the best of health care in the country and they want to live with the family and they want to get employed throughout the time so that they all can earn really well. So when it boils down to that idea, I think fashion becomes most powerful tool, you know, I have realized I have seen my life and that is something which has been going on with the brand and we are very, very passionate and proud about that.
GTN:It's incredible because the things you're talking about are things that so many of us just take for granted, and yet they're so powerful. And sustainability is such a, a strong point for you. How are you constantly looking at ways to make the business more so?
Rahul:I did feel biggest disservice to sustainability as an idea somebody can do when the big corporation, big companies define how, how to define sustainability in their own comfort zone. I think sustainability is a very, very localized idea. What might be really sustainable for Paris might not be sustainable for India, like, Sometimes I go and teach, I ask, I, I ask the same question from mr. So what is most sustainable? Cotton or polyester often invest people say polyester, more sustainable. In India, people say cotton is more sustainable and they both are, right. So, uh, in that way I really feel, uh, you know, best way of looking at it is, uh, if I have to define sustainability, always a single word definition can be rhythm. Anything which is rhythmic. With the pace of nature, it's gonna be sustainable. Your consumption, your production has to be in tune with the pace of nature. Nature is powerful enough to replenish its resources, but nature cannot have speed of a machine. We have to allow nature to replenish back her resources and, and allow, nature to nurture us, again. For, it's like mother Nature, mother needs time. So in that way, nature is nurturing us and you have to allow that rhythmic, uh, level. So one of the reasons I say, like when Idu hand embroidery, even if I am using recycled plastic, because the piece is so slow and the clothes that you're creating. You intend to create them so beautiful that people do not throw them away. So in that way, it becomes a much better sustainable solution than creating organic cotton t-shirt, which is creating billions of numbers. On a mechanical piece. Because you know, that is the, before industrialization, we never spoke of sustainability. Nobody had the idea what the sustainability is all about. Yeah. It's just that nature is not to keep up the pace with the machines, the way machines are producing things. Yeah. So somehow in terms of fashion to make fashion far more sustainable, I think fashion should look at old ideas of producing. So that you produce less, the consumption becomes quality over quantity and at the same time for like, couture can be defined in a very elitist, you know, you talk of the richest of rich people of the world, they buy couture. And what is special about the couture when it's made with hand, it connects, it bridges. two different, type of humans. one who has got everything has got private jet and one type of people. They need that work. They need to make that peace to take care of their families, take care of their small dreams. And these small dreams are very, very powerful. I love
GTN:that. I remember when we first spoke, After the Walmart prize that you said that everyone in India was very emotional about you winning because it was kind of the first time Indian craft had been recognized at that international level, despite the fact that so many artisans in India fuel of fashion industry, how what, how did that make you feel at the time?
Rahul:At that point of time, I remember even when, while I was studying, um, somehow no, any brand was, was acknowledging, you know, that uh, most of the things are really made in India. Now you look at this year di show in Mumbai. Which is, it's, it's really beautiful. Like, like people are realizing like something which is crafted in India. Has got a lot of respect. So I think in that with things have changed, and Woolmark prize was definitely the first time, uh, maybe in recent times when actually, uh, you know, Indian brand as well as something which was a hundred percent made, not just in India but in villages of India was recognized. And then, after that even, Being at the first Indian being at calendar also became, uh, one news where everybody was very excited, but I always believed like I can be first, but I don't wanna be last.
GTN:I know.'cause you've had a few first,'cause you were the first Indian designer to win Woolmark. You were the first Indian designer to show, as you say, on Paris and I'm And also the first non, I'm shocked. Yeah. And also the first non-European, I believe, to get the scholarship in Milan. Yeah.
Rahul:And uh, probably first non-European to get in National Woolmark Prize also. Yeah. Yeah, I think so. Yeah. Yeah. Or maybe, maybe non-European. Non-American. Yeah. To get first time. Wilma Prize also happened during that time. Yeah. But it's just recent history, so I do not know why it took so long. Mm-hmm. I know for, for, for Indian talent to be able to come and showcase at Paris Couture Week or why it is, it took too long to be, Woolmark prize winner. Right.
GTN:and it's gotta be said, actually, since you, the Woolmark Prize Indians have come up very well in that. There's been a number of you actually that have won. Yes. Which has been great. Um, and following also, I, I have, it has been noted obviously in fashion lately, globally, that, as you mentioned, the Dior show was held in India, but then just after that, I think it was like the same week, there was the opening of the Need and Maesh and Barney Cultural Center, which had an exhibition in which you had Yeah, a few pieces. Yeah.
Rahul:Again, uh, it's a beautiful story because when Mr. Hamish Bulls, when he contacted us, we were not told about like what kinda exhibit it is and all that, but yeah, it was right before Covid and I had a few, conversations with him online during Covid also, and then, They selected four pieces and I had no idea till that time exhibit was on that, what they're doing with the pieces. And I was very overwhelmed to see like, you know, they closed the exhibit with three of our recent, couture pieces from Paris. And also he asked me particularly like, why don't you pre-create something? Of inspired from chins textiles from India because, during that exhibit, I think all the pieces were. Almost like 200 year old. And there's the one piece, which just not even two month old, right in the center, uh, and fantastic. And I was very, very overwhelmed to see. And uh, when I asked, the, you know, curators, uh, because he had a complete freedom. And Mr. Any which way happens to be the biggest, best brain in terms of fashion curation? So I was told like, uh, first Garment was a jellyfish, which was done by McQueen, and last garment is a jellyfish, which you have done. So I was like, oh my God. I was very honored and more than that. It was, when you look at Chanel, like all the old works of there being displayed Saint Lauren sketches and work, when you looked at Dior, when you look at like designers like Jeff Franco Ferry, John Gallo, you know, you feel really proud being from India because how India became such a big inspiration contributor for the global fashion. I think that was very well established. by that, expert. So I'm very, very thankful that, uh, something like Mke Shabani Culture Center has opened and they planned this exhibit, which had I think people from world overcome over and witnessed, I think, and that was long deal. and. It was a beautiful tribute to a nation. Absolutely. And
GTN:in the fashion. And you also, of course on that night dressed, Zendaya and Gigi Hadid, which you know, is a lovely add-on. Is it not?
Rahul:Yeah. both of them are extremely special. It was an honor always, like I remember when I did my first showcase, for in Paris, I think my very first garment also was worn by Zenday, when she became brand ambassador for for Bulgary. And it was a beautiful trench coat with three D cutout embroideries, uh, with black pants. And this time when I got a request like she's gonna be in India, I thought, I never did Sari in my life. It might be good idea to do a sari dress kind of thing for her. Uh, so I'm, that was one choice I made for her. I also made it in the gown for her. But as she tried that on, she started taking pictures and she was so much in love with that. It was really, really beautiful, really beautiful. And also for Gigi, I think she had absolute clarity what she wanted. And there was only one outfit, which she did for her. And it was just beautiful. And similarly I think that day was again, very special because, the theme was Indian fashion. And, during the event, um, there were I think 150 odd people. They were wearing our designs, so it became almost like bigger than our fashion show. I remember some of the news channels, uh, said it is MHA party. It was never the intention. But yeah, people who are kind, God has been kind and yeah, Zenia is, again, extra special. She's queen of red carpet. And I also got a chance, I got late. Me and my wife, we both reached over there, so somebody shouted for, oh, RA is there. She she was asking for you to go and join her on the red carpet. That was all again, amazing women for me.
GTN:But you do dress a lot of amazing women. Yeah. I mean, you've, you know, the actresses, Hilti, Freda, Pinto, Radika up, Sarah Ali Khan. It's a who's who, certainly of Indian actresses and is that. Is that just a, a great way for you to,
Rahul:you know, because we are handmade brand, there are few problems also because often most the requests come really last minute. And so sometimes like one out of 10 requests we are able to enter in because of the time issues. Uh, so I think, I think brand could have done a lot more at carpet appearances across the globe, but just because of handmade nature, we take that extra time is needed to customize and fit a piece in both the cases for Gigi as well as in India, we had like more than a month to create those pieces. That really helped a lot. Then after that, we did something for Viola Davis. We did. pre chop opera. We did like quite a few nice things and quite a few. We are right also doing. So, which obviously you can't share right now.
GTN:Yeah. So it's a note to stylists out there really isn't it? That if they want a whole mishra piece on the red carpet, they should get in
Rahul:touch early. Yeah. Uh, some of them have started doing that now. Oh, this is good. So yeah, they're,
GTN:they're learning. Yeah.
Rahul:We need to have enough time, enough freedom to, to design. Absolutely.
GTN:And do you like it when you're doing things like that? Is it very much a situation where, They come to you because they've seen something on the catwalk and they say, we want that piece. Or is it a dialogue between them of something that they would like that you could create for?
Rahul:Usually I would like to, like whenever something is there, uh, already on the fashion week, they source something and, and that becomes far more easier. But to fit those pieces might be also challenge. I prefer it's a bit slow process where we customize or create something completely new. Look for them. Yeah, like it was Case with Zen India. I prefer that. Mm. It's far more beautiful, far more occasion and yeah, it is something which is more, more powerful also.
GTN:Yeah. you have mentioned that, india is very much integral to your brand as like you can see it in the clothe, the, the investment of the people that you work with. And you've said that it, I've read, you know that in interviews that you've said that it is, it is an Indian brand. I mean, how important is that to you?
Rahul:I, you know, when I, when I look at fashion in a very curious sense with whatever scientific brain I can look at, if you look at. biggest of brands. Like for example, if you look at, uh, RI brand like Chanel, it's very French. In in, or when you look at Saint Lauren very French, when you look at do Gaana, very Italian Prada, very Italian. Or when you look at Japanese brand, I see me okay. They are like very Japanese in their ideas. I really feel where you come from, you have to bring some new stories. You have to bring a kind of alternate aesthetic, but at the same time very global aesthetic, and that is what I, according to me, is, is key to succeed. And to create, a unique design voice. You know, I really feel that the worst compliment to the clothes can be, oh wow. They look very international, but you do not understand what the origin behind them, who has made them, where they come from. Because in that way, I think a brand is no different than a fast fashion brand. I think these are beautiful stories, beautiful ideas if they're told to the world, and, and that is what is going to be exciting like today we dress people from all over the world with a couture pieces. So the beauty is when people want to get certain look, certain ideas, and they'll come to us. And if I see in the same way after Second World War, the entire globe. Went ahead and embraced European aesthetics before that. Or when you look at 17th century, it was Indian aesthetic of chins, et cetera, which are ruling the world. Entire wallpaper was made with that. So when you look at Indian aesthetics, uh, I think in 17th century, 18th century French and British government, they banned the import of Indian textiles. So it means, that fashion textile, with that kind of aesthetic was flavor of the world. And if you, if you don't have something new to offer to the world, if you do not have something new to contribute to this big poetry which is going on, what is the point of you being there? Indeed.
GTN:Just before we finish up, what is your vision for your brand? Like, what do you want it to become? What do you want it to represent?
Rahul:As I said when I met you, first time, I, I really dream of like one day employing 1 million people. If I can employ 1 million people, it'll be I think, one of the most important recognizable global brand. It'll be by the time. And, right now we are looking at opening retail stores. In London as well as in Paris. So we are looking for a right hand doing property hunt. And we are also opening a few more stores in India. So the retail expansion is in full swing right now, And, slowly we will also create, uh, a global, but esthetic, uh, which. Um, ultimately it's a consumer who, who will choose that, who will, embrace that idea. But I really feel like it has to be alternate or a new idea. That will create a new language for the world.
GTN:Raul, you've got a room full of people next door with casting stylists waiting for you. I so appreciate you taking this time in this scheduled days out from your show. So thank you so much for joining in fashion. It's been an absolute
Rahul:joy. Thank you so much and, and it was wonderful. It is wonderful to see you.
GTN:Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, I'd love you to share with your friends and on social media and to rate and review on your podcast platform of choice. You can get in touch via Instagram at In fashion podcast. Thanks again for listening. Until next time.