(EP.51) Does your dog jump on you? Avoidance training & starting them out right the right way.

In this episode we talk about jumping dogs. No one loves dogs that jump all over you.  We talk about starting your dog out right when it comes to jumping and the psychology of getting them not to jump and correcting jumping. Also, go over avoidance training with a dog and how that works. Enjoy and good training!

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Thanks for listening everyone and good hunting!

Transcript

Speaker 0:50

Hey everyone, welcome to the Bird Dog Podcast. My name is Tyce. Appreciate you guys taking some time to listen in today. If you are new to the podcast, a little background about myself. Um, I was born and raised here in Utah, and I have been training gun dogs for a long time, pretty much my whole life. But for, uh, professionally for the last 20 years, we train everything from pointers to retrievers to crossbreeds for obedience. So, um, I think that's one thing that maybe sets us apart from, uh, some other trainers is, is, uh, we don't feel like there's a breed we can't work with, and we've been able to-- we've been fortunate enough to be able to work with a lot of different breeds, and not just focused on retrievers and pointers, uh, or vice versa. But we, um, get to work with all of them, which is awesome. It gives us an, uh, understanding of the different breeds and what makes them tick, and, uh, so we can help people out like yourself that are looking to train whatever breed you might have. So, um, in this podcast, I like to talk about dog training tips and things that I've learned over the years, uh, training these amazing animals. And then we'll get occasionally on, we'll get occasionally people on to talk about, you know, hunting stories or products or everything that has to do with guns and dogs and birds and every, all that cool stuff. So, thanks again for listening. Hopefully today you guys will find this show or this episode, uh, beneficial to your life and, uh, and, um, and yeah, hope you enjoy it. So, uh, before we jump into it, uh, some things you guys could do to help follow us. If you go to our Instagram, utahbirddogtraining, that's our, uh, business training name. And so if you go there and follow us on Instagram, uh, we try to post things on there and, um, and then also if you go to Field Bred Golden Retrievers, my wife Rachel, she's in charge of kind of managing that part of our hunting golden retrievers that we breed on the side. Um, so if you're looking for a nice hunting golden, you can, uh, check that out. We are, um, waiting for some young females that have passed their health clearances, got just finishing up some of their titles, and hopefully gonna be having some pups here soon. I have a couple females any day we're hoping they go in heat. We've had some other females go in heat, so we're putting them around them to see if we can get them to cycle together, um,'cause they are, they're supposed to be cycling any day. So, um, and then, uh, if you guys have any questions, go ahead and send us an email at thebirddogpodcast@gmail.com, and we'll try to get those questions answered for you guys on a podcast. So Uh, again, appreciate you guys listening and, um, and then also one last thing, um, if you're inter- well, a couple other things. Check us out, our website utahbirddogtraining.com. If you have any training, uh, if you're looking for help, um, with your dog to get it trained, you can check us out there. And also our golden retriever website, same thing, Fieldbred Golden Retrievers. We do breed some labs on the side, but, um, I only have one or two litters of those coming up. They're, uh, the one litter is pretty much spoken for, and then the other female, waiting for her to age and get health clearances done, and then we'll hopefully have maybe one or two litters this fall, spring. So you're still welcome to reach out to us on those if interested. Also, check out gunshyfix.com. There's a link on our website, or there's gonna be a link in the show notes. Uh, gunshyfix.com is a program that I developed to help dogs get comfortable with gunfire, and if you have a dog that's gun shy, it's real- it's really good to play that. It uses, like, a desensitization approach to just get the dog comfortable with gunfire. So when you go out and do a proper gun introduction, you get them on birds, or you're using a bumper or whatever it may be, something excited, and then you're introducing again that gunshot in around the dog. The dog is gonna be so used to hearing that gunshot, um, through a calm approach that the dog can overcome, you know, that gun shyness. So check it out. Helps us out too if... And also something you can do is play it around your pups or your, uh, your pup that you got or your litter that you have to just get them comfortable with those noises of gunfire, which is, um, really important. Obviously, if you have a gun-shy dog, you don't have anything but a pet. So, um, super important. Don't screw up your dog. Don't just go out and say,"I wonder if my dog's gun shy," and shoot around it. We have clients do that quite a bit, and it's a 50/50, right? You can either cause issues or your dog can absorb it and be okay. But, um, if you do cause them to be gun shy, it can cost a lot of money and time to have someone or yourself, you know, a professional work on the dog or yourself, and then sometimes you can still have flare-ups. So, um, check that out if interested. Also, I do have, this is not common, but I do, I do have a really nice red setter. His name is Sharpie. Some of you guys came up to the expo. He was there. Beautiful red dog, amazing upland dog, um, amazing personality, super calm, super chill in the house, but turns it on, has a beautiful point, careful on birds. Um, he had a pretty decent natural retrieve. I did force fetch him like I force fetch all my dogs, and he has a really nice retrieve now. But, um, how I found him was I ended up, had a client that had a really nice red setter, her name's Jenny, and Um, I ended up getting, you know, him from the same breeder. But anyhow, we bred Sharpie and Ginny, which Ginny's a phenomenal big motor red setter. They produced two pu- four puppies, small litter. Um, the owners kept one. They had a f- another friend that is, took a male, and I have one male and one female available, first come, first serve. I'm gonna be posting them on our Instagram today. Um, they're eight weeks old. They're ready to go home, have had their first set of shots. And, um, so if you're looking for, uh, uh, you, you take both of them. If you want a pair, that's even better. When you're hunting upland game, two is better than one. But anyhow, we do have a male and a female available. Um, and so, uh, you can DM us. So I'm gonna put, put on the post, I'll put my cell phone on there, and you guys can text me if you're interested in getting a red setter pup. So not real common. Um, the red setter is more like the hunting line of... They're UKC registered, but they're more the hunting line of kind of the red setter, the Irish Setter-ish, but they don't have the long, flowy coat that an Irish Setter has. Their coats are a lot shorter, a lot more athletic, kind of like a show golden retriever compared to a field bred golden retriever. Their coats are usually different lengths, more athleticism, the body build, all that stuff. So anyhow, reach out to me if you're interested in that. But today, the topic of the podcast that I wanted to talk about is jumping on people, jumping dogs, and avoidance training. So this is the, the adel, the, the old a- old age adage, whatever however you say that, that, uh, uh, dogs, people do not like dogs that jump on them. Um, now it's a... I sometimes see people let their dogs jump on them, and it, and it's kind of like a nail on a chalkboard, honestly, for me, when I see a dog jump up on someone, and people, like, are okay with it, or they even encourage it. And, um, and, uh, what we see so- and, and that's different. If you train the dog to jump on you using a command, okay, m- maybe okay. Um, but again, with training, like we've talked about in past podcasts, consistency is everything. So if you let your dog jump on you sometimes, and then you go out in your Sunday best dress or your nice work clothes, and you're taking care of your dog, and it's a little muddy, or it's rainy, or whatever it is, or anything like that, your dog just jumped in its poop, and then it jumps up on you, you're not gonna be happy. You're gonna have to go clean your clothes. It's just, it's just annoying, right? No one likes a dog that jumps on them. So How do we correct a dog for jumping? Well, I'm gonna tell you, it's gonna start with a puppy, and ideally it starts with the breeder. So, um, puppies start... Puppies love to just play. They love to jump on each other. They just like to get those paws up on things, right? It's just kind of what they do. So, with our puppies, what we like to do is instead of, you know, generally you're gonna have those puppies in some sort of, um, as you're raising them, they're four, five, six weeks old, they start putting their, you're gonna have them in a little whelping pen of some sort, a wall obviously, so they can't just get out and run off and destroy your house or wherever you're whelping these puppies, and they'll put their little feet up on the edge. Oh, they're so cute, and people reach over and they pet them. Go and scratch them on the head."Oh, you're such a cute puppy. I love you, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah." Oh, well, the puppy is up on something and being physically touched, which says like... And which feels, which to the animal feels good, and so they're like,"Oh, this, this feels amazing. Oh yeah," and like,"My feet are up on the edge of this wall." Okay? So one, you start rewarding them for having their feet up on something when they're a puppy through physical touch. Physical touch, you're saying, you're gi- it's, you're basically just giving them treats, right? Treat, treat, treat, treat. That's what we want. Put your feet up, put your feet up, and that dog just is, has his feet up on there. Well, then we let the puppies out, and what do we like to do? We like to get down to their level, and so the puppy climbs up on our lap. Oh, and we pet them, or they're so cute, they jump up on you and you lean over and you pet them, right? So you're just rewarding them from day, not day one, because they can't do anything other than day one, but you're rewarding them from a puppy up to until they basically become a big puppy, and that's when it gets annoying and they can knock kids over and stuff. But up until that point, basically we rewarded a puppy the whole time saying,"Do this, do this, do this," and all of a sudden we're like,"Don't do that. You're too big. Now you're an- you're annoying," blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Okay? So we're, we're, we're giving mixed signals to our animal. So the easiest thing is what I do with our litter of puppies, if I wanna reach over into the whelping pen, I push them down, then I love on them. Then I go ahead and pet them. If they jump up, push them down, I love on them. Let, let them love on them. I am, when I'm watching them with people, I'll say,"Don't let them jump up on you. Push them down. Pet on them." So it's just from day one, we're consistent on the reward, and dogs wanna be pet and loved on. It's just naturally it feels good to them. So if you're aware of how that physical touch is Of the jumping from day one, you just correct them. No, off. And you tell them off. We use down for lay down, off for get off. And so we'll tell them off, push them down, love on them,"Good dog," and then we'll reward them for that behavior. If they jump up,"Off," immediately pet on them. We'll stop petting them. Give them... Don't give them that reward. Maybe you give them a little swat on the, the muzzle. Don't do that. You know, just a little negative correction that it's like,"Oh," and then when they're down, then you love on them. So, my word of advice would be when you have a puppy, start from the very beginning. Watch what you do with your hands when you touch your dog. If a dog's barking, don't go ahead and pet on them. Don't think that, like, when they're barking and you immediately come in, you start petting on them, that that's going to calm that behavior. They start barking, you start petting them, they're gonna say,"Oh, if I do bar- if I bark, I get this. If I do this, I get this. If I do this, I get this." Remember, whatever they're doing and whatever you physically touch them is the reward for that previous behavior. So, um, so if a dog's barking, it should be some form of correction. Maybe you squirt them with some water, maybe a little swat on the muzzle, open flat hand. Of course, no physical... No closed fists or anything like that. That crosses the line of abuse. Um, so just a nice physical little flat hand, little swat on the nose. Something uncomfortableness, m-more like a startle that, like, that's like,"Okay, I don't wanna do that." And then at the same time, tell them,"Quiet," or whatever it may be for barking, or,"Off." You know, push them down, let them fall over. Don't let them... Just something like,"Eh, that wasn't very fun," you know, is what we basically want the dog to say. And then when you pet them, like,"Oh, that's fun. I like that." So just the timing of that physical touch. Okay, let's say you haven't done good at that. You let the dog jump up on your little, on your kid or d- you, and you've pet him, and you loved on him, and now you're just hearing this for the first time. You're like,"Oh man, that totally makes sense. I've been, like, giving mixed signals to the dog." Now the dog's four months old, five months old, six months old, and he's still jumping on new people, jumping on everyone that he comes into. One, you need to be a leader in your dog's life and just, and be like,"In this family, we don't jump on people." And correct the dog however it may be, fairly, but correct the dog so it knows that that's not okay. So, how does a mother dog correct her puppies? If you ever watch and you have a little puppy that's eating mom's food, and she's like,"I don't like..." And the mom's like,"Don't eat my food," she'll really quickly go,"Rarf," and she'll kinda almost nip the dog And startle it, and the puppies will sometimes like,"Ooh, ooh, ooh," they'll whine, and they'll, like, run off to the side. But the puppies learn that quick, that little precise correction. Mom's not trying to kill the dog. She doesn't run in there, chomp, chomp, chomp, crack, crack, crack, crack. It's quick. It's precise. It's a startle, and the dog learns really quick,"I don't need to do that." And she, she's saying,"In this family, don't bother me while I'm eating my food." In this family is a leader of a dog, which you must be a leader. Um, dogs are a pack animal. If they do not perceive you as a leader, they will take advantage of you. They will try to become the leader and rule your life, do whatever they want. Because ultimately, they're trying to... That's what they want. They want to be the leader. They want all the rewards. They want everything. They want what they want to do, right? They want that freedom. So what we want the dog is to respect you, to be happy in your pack, and you're a fair leader to the ani- that animal. So let's talk about an easy way to correct jumping, okay? Physically, obviously, it doesn't look good if you punch a dog or do something like that. That's not a, a good way, right? I never am an advocate for any type of closed fist. Flat hand, that's a little bit different. A little swat on the rear end, swat on the muzzle. No, okay. Like, if the... But it has to be done in the moment when the dog does something wrong. Otherwise, if there's no correction, the dog doesn't know the difference, right? If a dog bites you, and you're just like,"Hey," you kind of just push it off, the dog's like... It doesn't know that that was... You have to create some type of negativity. So sometimes, like, a little squirt, you know, a little squirt with the hose in the face, and the dog's like,"Whoa," like,"That wasn't fun. I didn't like that." Right when they're barking,"Quiet." Just like,"Okay, quiet." Every time they hear quiet, they're like,"Okay, something negative may come if I do this behavior." And then when they're calm,"Good dog. Good." That's what we want. So you want to mark the behavior of positive, good things, correct them for negative. So now let's say again, let's jump. We're, I know we're kind of bouncing back and forth, but hopefully you're gonna absorb some of this, get the concept. Um, when it comes to jumping, you can use a, a shock collar on a dog for jumping, even if the dog is not properly collar conditioned. It's called avoidance training. So example, if my car is sitting out there, and I have a e-collar on my neck or anything that would kind of correct me in some sort, and as soon as I put my hand on the paint of my car, I get a zap, I'm gonna be like,"Dang," like,"What was that?" And I'm like,"That car just zapped me." Touching that car, doing that action gave me a correction that I didn't like, that... And that was uncomfortable, okay? So I'm like,"Eh, what was that?" Maybe I go back,"Oh, that car's really exciting. I'm gonna walk over." I touch it again, zap. I'm like,"Okay, I'm good." Like, I am going to avoid doing that behavior. I'm gonna avoid that action of touching that car, because when I do that, it gave me a zap, and I did not like that. That was not fun. It was uncomfortable, so I'm gonna avoid that action, okay? So if you put an e-collar on a young dog, now there are some pretty small collars, but it depends on your dog. But again, a puppy, usually it's not a big deal,'cause the puppies are small. You can kind of push them down. You can p- again, reward them when their feet are off. It's when they start kind of hitting that teenage year, they're getting a little bigger, they're getting a little more crazy, and that's when, um, you know, and that's when that, that's when the e-collar could be a good time to correct them for jumping. And it's amazing to me, like, how long people will go with a jumping dog throughout their life and, and not correct the dog for it. And so my dogs rarely, I mean, rarely do they jump on someone because, and that's a stranger, anyone like that, because I've done these things that I'm telling you. From day one, I've been consistent. So when a stranger comes up to my house, this is what my dogs do if I release them. They run right up to them, and they sit down and just wait to be petted. And the people bend down and,"Oh, I love you," and the dogs keep their feet on the ground.'Cause they know if I run up and I sit, and I'm a good dog, good, good little boy, good little girl, I'm gonna get pet, and I'm gonna get loved on. So it's amazing, if you can stay that consistent course, what you'll get, and it's like,"Oh, this is, this dog's amazing to be around," you know? Okay, well, yeah, because the previous training up until this point. So with the e-collar, you can correct a dog and, and get them really quick, actually, not jumping. So just like, uh, just like you don't need to tell me a lot of times if I touch my car, and every time I touch my car, I get a, a zap on my neck. Like, I'm gonna stop doing that, okay? Now, if you're inconsistent, and you do it once, and then the dog's like, you know, run around, touches the car, you touch the car, and you're like,"Oh, it didn't zap me. Okay, well, maybe I'll try it again." So, but if every time I touch it, I get a correction immediately, and it's maybe- And you don't even necessarily have to tell them off. You can, but, like, I'm smart enough, or an animal's smart enough, if they do that action, they get a zap. You don't have to say anything. They just go,"Oh, if I do that, I get that correction. I don't like that." Okay? So that's gonna correct... You can use avoidance training, a shock collar. You could use it for, like, barking. If it barks, zap."Oh. Oh, if I do that action, that happens." Um, digging. They're just digging in the backyard, zap."Okay." Try digging again, zap."Okay, I'm gonna avoid that, that action, that behavior." Um, mouthing someone, that's a dominant behavior, zap."Okay, I'm gonna, I'm gonna avoid that behavior. I don't really like that. That caused this action." So there has to be those negative corrections, like, that, like, teaches a dog,"That's not... That's uncomfortable when that happens, so I'm gonna avoid doing that." And then you're gonna basically encourage good, positive behaviors that you want out of the animal. So, um, and then through that consistency, your dog's just gonna learn. It's gonna learn,"I don't jump on people, and I get, I get loved on when my feet are down," and blah, blah, blah. And then you can go out in your nice clothes, and your dog just doesn't jump on you and is enjoyable to be around. Okay? All right. Let's talk about the other concept, a dog being collar wise. Okay? So if a dog is collar wise, you put that, uh, e-collar on, you pull the e-collar off, you put it on, you put it off, and then when that collar is off, the dog jumps up on someone. Well, it's gonna go,"Oh, that collar's off. I guess I can do this." Okay? So there has to be like, physically, you do need to start telling the dog,"Off," or tying a command into it, so when you get over there,"Off," little, whatever you need, push the dog down, whatever it needs to do to make that dog, collar on or off, it does not matter. You need to do what we ask you to do in this family. So, um, and that can be physically pushing the dog down in a fair way, again, right, to the animal. Um, so, but if you follow through and you're not... But if, but if you're like,"Mm, e-collar's not on," dog jumps up,"Oh, I'm sorry," whatever, you just say you're sorry to your friend or whatever. No, don't do that. Like, put the dog down where it needs to be, tell it off, kinda get after it, scold it, and then when it's down,"Good. Good dog. That's what we want. Good dog." You know? So let them know, let them know the difference there. Um, last thing, let's talk about, so we've talked about avoidance training for different concepts. There's not really an age limit. I, I don't believe you can do it with a young puppy. Uh, but again, puppies, in the beginning, they're small enough. You don't really need to do it. I would say, like, four months and up, you know, you could start doing something like that. But even if it's a really bold puppy, you could technically start a little earlier. It's just a really easy way of correcting them Very quickly, and these are just nicks. When you jump up, zap immediately, but it has to be done right in the moment the dog does it. Feet up on someone, zap. Dog goes off, tries it again, zap. Okay, and we want it comfortable. We want it high enough that the dog's like,"Whoa, okay, I'm not gonna try that again." If it's barely anything, the dog's like,"What? What was that?" And it's not gonna... And it might do it again and try testing it. We wanna, just like that mother dog corrects her puppies, it's high enough, it's precise that the dog goes,"Okay, I get it." Okay? So let's talk about e-collars. Okay, when you're using an electric collar, don't go cheap. That's all I can say. Don't go cheap. Don't get on Amazon and get a$40 collar, they're most of them are garbage. I can't speak for all of them. If you think there's one that's awesome and it's$40, have the company send it to me. I'll put it through the test, and I'll tell them the honest truth. Most of them are you pay for what you get with the collar. The collar ones, the cheap ones are made in... They're probably all made in China, but they're made cheap products, cheap batteries. They're not gonna last. They're gonna be inconsistent. That is not fair to your animal to have inconsistency with the e-collar. That is the key with all electric collars is consistency. They gotta come in at the right level. You gotta have a battery that will hold its life, and when you correct that dog, it literally has to happen within seconds. The second when you push that button, the electricity is, goes to that dog. Okay? So generally in training what we use is the Garmin Pro 550. Okay? I'm a dealer for them. If you want to get one through me, I can get you a discount on them. That's, that's our workhorse that we use in training and day in and day out. Okay? I've used Dogtra, not a bad collar. I would say Dogtra, SportDOG, and Garmin are gonna be your top three that I would be okay to recommend using. DT is not bad. I haven't used DT a whole lot, but those top three, Garmin, Dogtra, and SportDOG are gonna be good. Um, I do feel like Garmin is the most consistent on, like, getting a good connection and the electricity levels and the different... SportDOG is a hotter collar. Like the 1225, I don't even know if they make the Pro Hunter anymore. Uh, but like the 1825, and then I think it's 1225, they're just different. It's like one mile range, three-quarter mile range. Those ones do have a high setting in the collar, like a low, medium, high, and if you set that on high and you set the collar on, the transmitter on high, together that's gonna pack a punch, that collar. Um Most dogs aren't gonna need that. There are some dogs that have a weird high pain threshold. They can just take electricity, and they're just like... It just acts like it doesn't even affect them. Most dogs are very responsive to electricity, and you're gonna be on that... Like when we're running the Garmin, most of the time you're between like a two and a four, two low to a four low on average is kind of a maintenance mode level, and they go up to a seven with a, like a seven high. So each number will have like one through seven, then you have a low, medium, high. So you're definitely on the lower spectrum generally of what they're running. Back in the day, I used the Tritronics Pro 100. I love that collar'cause it did have a higher reach than the Garmin. Um, but Garmin bought out Tritronics and they changed it, and I don't know why they adjusted it, but it just isn't quite have the upper range. But again, for 90% of the dogs, 95% of the dogs, it's, it's a great collar and it, it's does plenty. Dogtra, I've used Dogtra for years. Um, I kinda quit from them years ago because I was having some battery issues. I'd be running them and the battery would tank, and they were using a nickel battery in some of them. I know they do have lithium in some of them now. I just haven't really jumped back on the bandwagon. I have used the 1900 NCP, I think that's what it's still called. We have one of those we use, but it's just... I just feel like the neck connection on the SportDOG and Dogtra isn't as good as the Garmin. So, and I'm not paid by Garmin or anything like that. I am a dealer for all of them. I can get all the collars, but I'm just going through like what I've found from personal use, just like everything in this podcast, that works, that if you have the right tools, you're gonna have a nice dog. Now, the Garmin Pro 550, it retails for$400. That's a lot of money for a collar. Don't get me wrong. Like, that's a lot of money. You can get, you know, some of your SportDOGs, Dogtra, they're gonna be down in that two to 300-ish range, so... But I would say if you're gonna buy an e-collar, if you're paying probably less than$200 for your collar, it's pro... It's, it's not worth it. Just save a little money, invest in your dog, and buy, buy the right equipment and you're gonna... Your training's gonna go smoother, it's gonna go better, it's gonna be more consistent and more precise. So that's kinda my rant on e-collars. But anyhow, so okay, guys, that's gonna be our podcast for today. Hopefully there was some information in there that you guys could glean from that, um, talking about avoidance training and the different things that you would like your dog not to do. Most common, I'd say, are chewing on things, barking, and jumping. So you correct your dog On those things, use the e-collar. It's an easy way to correct them, um, and the dog doesn't have to be collar conditioned. Now, I'm gonna add, add, add this caveat in there. Just because you can correct your dog on those things doesn't mean you can jump in and use your e-collar for obedience training for your dog, okay? They're completely different things, okay? To use your dog as a reinforcement tool for training obedience, force fetch, whatever it may be, the dog has to understand how pressure works. Has to be done gradually, has to be done slowly, has to be done, um, correctly so your dog can understand that. And if you do it correctly, you can have a confident dog that wears an e-collar. Dogs that are done not correctly, they go too fast by people just putting a collar on them, start pushing buttons, yelling commands at them, the dog doesn't understand what's going on, that's where it's not fair to the animal, and that's where it causes confusion, and confusion causes, um, lack of, oh my gosh, um, confidence. That's the word I was thinking of. Lack of confidence. So we want a dog that's confident, that's happy, that understands what you're asking it to do, that knows you're its leader and is happy being led by you. And there's something when you can link up with a dog and have that amazing working relationship of picking up your duck out in the marsh and handling on a beautiful blind retrieve, or running a junior, senior master test, whatever it may be, and that's just, that's awesome. Okay? So, um, hopefully this little, these little tips help you out. Hopefully it gives you some insight on when you get your puppy,"Hey, next time I get my puppy, I'm gonna try that." And if you try that, and again, you're consistent with things, you're gonna have a better dog and a better animal. So hope you guys have an awesome day. Man, what are we already? We're almost, heck, we're almost in the middle, at end of May. June, July, August. Three months. Three months and two weeks, and we will be starting the hunts up again. We got dove hunt going, we got the grouse hunt going September 1st. Man, it's a beautiful season. So we are crunch time for training, so hopefully you guys are out there getting at it after, getting at it with your dog. Remember, daily training is the most important. It can be challenging, but do, even if you can just squeak out 10 or 15 minutes and you have a short, positive training session with your dog, that will build your dog into where you need it to go if you have a proven program that you can follow. So anyhow guys, keep at it. Go out there, have some fun with your dog. Be fair to your animal. Uh, treat it with respect, but also be a good leader in its life, and you're gonna have an awesome time this fall hunting with your dog. And, uh, remember to train for the hunts. I like to say that. Remember, train how you're gonna hunt. Imagine how you want your dog and how you're gonna hunt. If you're field hunting, you're hunting off a boat, whatever it may be, you're hunting upland game with your dog, you're gonna be hunting sagebrush, you're gonna be hunting grass or whatever it may be. And once your dog reaches those levels, train in those areas. Get your dog comfortable with that so when your dog goes hunting, he's like,"I got it. I know what we're doing. I'm on the ball field. I've played on the ball field. I know this game," and you're just gonna have an awesome experience. So have a great g- have a great day, guys, and we'll see you in the next episode.