This podcast has everything you need to learn the process of printmaking. Supply list, class room set-up, transferring a line drawing onto a printing block backwards, cutting into the printing block safely, applying ink, making prints and clean-up. Even the process of signing and numbering the prints
Extra information on expanding this lesson includes suggestions for using creative paper, adding color and stamp-making.
Images of sample drawing, block and prints:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rP2XoOshLU4pu5ehZ8WPuylvKVUGa9Q4/view?usp=sharing
PRINTMAKING 101
Supplies for day one:
pencil and eraser
4” x 6” sheets of plain paper
tracing paper
Linocut carving tools, sizes 1 and 2
4” x 6” printing block:
I prefer 1/4” thick softkut printing blocks. They run about $2 each and you can use both sides. There are plenty of options to choose from including rolls of linoleum you can cut to size and grey ready-cut blocks that have a white layer to warn you when you’ve cut too deep
Supplies for day two:
black printmaking ink or acrylic paint
ink brayer
cookie sheet
6” x 8” sheets of colored construction paper or cardstock
I use printmaking as a transition from the art element of ‘Line’ to the art element ‘Space’.
Printmaking begins with a simple line drawing of an object. I included a link to my simple line drawing of a cat - looking to the left - out a window. I carved the design into the block backwards with the cat looking to the right - out the window. When I place paper down onto the inked block and pull it up, the print will be a mirror image of the block, with the cat - facing left - like the original drawing.
Think about a rubber stamp. The design is backwards or wrong-reading on the stamp itself. It gets pressed into the ink pad and then stamped onto paper. The print the stamp makes on the paper is correct or right-reading.
It is well worth the time to have a sample of each step of the process to show your students as you explain it. I attached a link to pictures you can use as well so the kids can visualize all of the steps involved. First, show them a line drawing on paper, then the tracing of the drawing, then the drawing backwards on the block, the cut block with dried black ink on it, and a finished print.
The lesson:
Ask your students to create a 4” x 6” line drawing. Tell them to keep it simple: the more detail drawn, the more cutting is involved.
Once your students have their line drawing ready, place a sheet of tracing paper on top of the drawing and trace it with pencil. Supply the kids with tape if they need help keeping the tracing paper from moving around while they are drawing on it.
Take the tracing paper and place it pencil side down onto the block. Rub the tracing paper well or draw over the back of the design so the graphite from the pencil tracing transfers onto the block. When you remove the tracing paper, you should have a light drawing of your design, backwards. Darken the lines with pencil.
The next step is deciding what in your design will print: the line drawing of the object or everything around the object. The “everything around the object” is called, “negative space”. We go deeper into positive and negative space in another podcast called, “Space and Optical Illusions”. For now we’ll stick to printmaking.
I chose to cut out the lines of the window and the body of the cat. The ink rolled onto what was left uncut on the block. If I had cut out the background I would have a print with black lines of the window and a black cat.
The cutting tutorial:
Before handing out cutting tools, I give every student a personal cutting tutorial. My son went through boy scouts where they had a similar lesson on how to use a knife safely.
The blade of the cutting tools for print-making are in the shape of a V and there are three basic sizes: #1, a small V for cutting fine lines, #2, a larger V for medium lines and #3, a very wide V for removing large areas. I find #3, the largest blade, difficult to use. The #2 medium blade works great for both thicker lines and removing large areas of the printing block.
First, I point out the smooth, curved bottom of the metal end of the cutting tool. I glide the curved part along a pencil line on the block. Then, as I’m moving, I dip the sharp V edge slightly down into the block and cut a line keeping my angle steady, then come back up to the smooth bottom again. I show them, that I do not dig my tool straight down into the block. There is no easy way for my blade to come back up and out. The cuts or grooves don’t have to be deep for the ink brayer to pass over them.
Then I pretend to begin carving, aiming my cutting tool toward the hand that is holding the block. This presents a danger of cutting my fingers. Show them how to always hold the block so you are cutting away from your hand.
I then pretend to begin cutting towards my body and show them that I could accidentally cut myself that way, like opening a box toward my body with a knife. Always cut away from yourself.
When you are satisfied that they are ready to start cutting safely, hand them the two sizes of cutting tools. This is a great time to be sure that the student’s design is backward on the block. Especially if the design is a word or a logo. I hate not catching the student before they’ve put a lot of time and work into cutting only to see the right reading design on the block. Don’t throw mistake blocks away and have the students practice on them to get the feel of cutting along a line before they dig into their design. The two-sided blocks I use allow the kids to practice on one side and print on the other. They need to write their name somewhere on the block with pencil. Writing on the block does not interfere with printing the cut design.
Tell your students that when it is time to clean up, they are responsible for throwing away all of the scraps they remove from the rubber printing block. I call them boogers and they get everywhere. Hold your students responsible for their own messes and check their tables, chairs and the floor around them before you dismiss them.
Day two:
Some students may still be cutting their design on the second day while others are ready to print. Prepare an area covered in plastic or newspaper to set up the inking station. Print-making gets very messy. Have painting smocks or extra large t-shirts for the kids to wear over their clothing. Place a cookie sheet with a brayer for each student you want working at one time. Have the ink and a spoon ready. Wet wipes and paper towels come in handy, too. Set a stack of 6” x 8” colored construction paper off to the side so they stay clean. I also offer old dictionaries, books, music sheets, and newspaper to print on. Second-hand stores and garage sales usually have lots of old or damaged books to tear pages out of. It adds a lot of interest to the printed design.
When the kids are ready to print have them come to the print-making station one or two at a time. The most I’ve ever had printing at once are three students. I can’t handle any more than that. When a student says they are ready to print, have them write their name on the board and go back to their seat with something else to work on. This keeps students from crowding in a line. While they are waiting have them choose a few sheets of colored paper to bring along with their block when it’s their turn.
Ask a student or two to volunteer to help with the drying rack. Kids who have finished printing will have their hands full with wet prints and an ink covered block so it’s great to have help placing everything on a rack and lowering the next rack after one gets full.
At the printing station, place a spoonful of ink or paint onto the cookie sheet. Show them how to roll the brayer forward and backward, side to side in the ink until you have a nice, even coating of ink on the roller. No lumps or dry spots. Hand them the brayer so they can give it a try. The ink will make a crackling sound when it’s smooth and ready.
Next have them roll the ink loaded brayer over their block, forward and back, side to side. The block should have a nice coat of black ink with the cut grooves nice and clean. If ink gets into the grooves either the brayer had too much ink on it or the grooves need to be cut a little deeper. Have the student wash their block with soap and water and go back to their seat to continue cutting.
If the block is ready, set the brayer down into the ink on the cookie sheet. Now it’s time to place a 6” x 8” colored piece of paper on top of the inked block. Try to center it the best you can. With their fingers, press, press, press, rub, rub, rub down all over the paper. Don’t let the paper slide around or the print will be blurred. Pull a corner of the paper up like pulling the backing off of a sticker and evaluate the print. The first print is always practice. Evaluate the first print. Is there an area that didn’t get enough ink? Did any ink get into the lines that were not supposed to print? Make adjustments and start on the next print.
Sometimes I ask a student to help the next person so I can have more kids printing at one time. When the kids have printed their little hearts out, have them set the prints and the printing block on the drying rack.
Day 3:
Pass out the dry prints and plates and supply large pieces of black construction paper for mounting their prints on. A heavy coating of stick glue should do the job. Two prints side by side, a row of three, or a square of four would make Andy Warhol very proud.
Finally, this is a great time to explain what those numbers are for that you see at the bottom of art prints. In the bottom left corner of the first print they made have them write the number one, a two on the second print they made, and so on... then follow each number with a forward slash, and then the number of total prints made. For example: on the 3rd print they made out of 7 total they should have a 3/7 in the left, bottom corner which means it is the third in a series of seven prints. In the olden days, artists would destroy their wood block so no more prints could be made and that would make the prints more valuable.
In the right bottom corner of the print, have them sign their fancy artist signature and write the date. Done! An official artist’s print.
Printmaking Extras:
Set out watercolor for students to add a pop of color to their black and white print. Printing ink comes in lots of colors, too.
Smaller linoleum circles with adhesive backing are available to make stamps. This project is for older kids or can be a way to expand on print-making once they have experience. It takes a steady hand and fine lines since the working area is much smaller. Taping or sticking the circles down makes cutting easier. Cutting squares or rectangles from an adhesive linoleum sheet for stamp-making, instead of buying pre-cut circles is an option, too. I usually have small, scrap pieces of wood to stick the linoleum circles onto so they work like an actual stamp. You can also use empty thread spools, foam core scraps, or bottle lids. Be creative and use something you already have lying around.
Another way to make stamps without purchasing linoleum circles or sheets is using adhesive foam sheets or shapes. If you have students old enough to use an xacto-knife they can cut designs out of the foam sheet and stick them to a small block of wood to make a stamp. Cutting shapes and letters with scissors works, too. If cutting letters use a non-adhesive sheet of foam since the letters must be glued to the block backwards for a right-reading print.