027: Mastering Trousers: Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

In this episode of 'I'm Not A Gentleman,' we unravel the intricacies of trousers, exploring the nuances that can make or break your style. From the pitfalls of overly slim fits to the elegance of wider leg openings, discover why trousers are more than just a garment—they're a statement. 

Join your host Vladimir Riche2 as he delves into essential details like pleats, cuffs, and rise, offering a roadmap to a refined wardrobe. Elevate your menswear game with expert insights, brand recommendations, and a touch of sartorial wisdom. Tune in and embark on a journey to sartorial sophistication.

Transcript

Vlad (host): Are you a guy who's feeling lost in these menswear streets and wants to build a timeless wardrobe that turns heads? If you're nodding in agreement, then I wanna link with you for a complimentary Step Up Your Menswear discovery call. In this informative 20-minute session, I'll dissect your current fashion choices and identify what you might be missing out on opportunities to enhance your style game, all while staying true to classic menswear principles. Whether you're a professional, a businessman,

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Announcer: I'm Not A Gentleman is a production of chaceandryder.com.

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And that's just all in my head because I've been wearing my trousers that way for so long. So it's not something that I always push on my clients, but I do recommend it, especially if I see that it's going to go with them and they're looking to dress more the way that I dress. So I don't hold back any secrets. I'm all those guys, I'll tell you everything as far as what I do because I don't feel like we're going to look the same. I always feel like we're going to look different, even if we weren't the same exact thing. So I don't gatekeep. So whatever it is that I do, I tell my students everything.

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Yo, what up? Welcome to I'm Not A Gentleman, the show designed to help you look stylish without following trends. I'm your host Vladimir Riché from chaceandryder.com and your favorite menswear YouTuber's favorite menswear YouTuber. I've helped dozens of clients and hundreds of students and viewers feel more confident by looking their best and always making a great first impression.

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Welcome to episode 27. This episode is going to cover trousers. So the past few episodes, episode 23, was an episode about ties. And episode 25 was an episode about shirts. So now we're going to talk about trousers. Trousers, they are one of those things that's kind of hard to get right. I think.

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Shirts are probably the easiest thing. Like, let's say you're getting something custom-made. Having your shirt fit you properly is the easiest thing. So if you're looking to get into custom clothing and you want to try it out, especially if you're doing it remotely, I would start with shirts because that's going to be your easiest bet. But trousers are a little bit more complicated to get right. So we're going to talk about a few things. I'm going to tell you what my preferences are. And obviously, my preferences or just my preferences doesn't mean that they're better.

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And when I don't see them, it makes me question it. Not that it's bad, but question it as far as I would not wear those because they're not for me. So we go on to discuss all those things today and hopefully, you'll be able to walk away with some pointers from this episode. Intro.

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Intro music: Bag in that bag in that bag again, whoa!

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So let's get right into it. So as I was saying, trousers aren't easy. It's definitely one of those things that you want to make sure that you get right. I think the biggest mistake that I see is most guys wear their trousers too slim. And usually, it's not a good look. Your trousers are supposed to drape really nicely. And when you have your trousers too slim,

03:42
most of the time it's not going to really drip properly. Unless it's something that's bespoke where they really took the time to make sure that the curvature or the trousers are going to follow your legs. But most of the time those are off-the-rack trousers or maybe made to order. And most guys definitely have the trousers too slim.

04:07
And the reason why I would say a fuller trouser is probably the best way to go. As I was saying, number one is going to drape better. And number two is not going to, let's say catch, right? Because that happens to me sometimes too, where I'll see that my trousers would catch on my socks, like along my calf. And when that happens, it's really unsightly because it's like a talking that goes on like on the back of your legs.

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So when you wear fuller trousers, that's something that you don't really have to worry about. Even with me, I've always done an eight-inch leg opening. But as I've mentioned in a couple of the last few episodes, especially when I was speaking to Style Jumper in episode 26, the wardrobe audit, I was telling him that I'm looking to have wider leg openings. So I'm going from eight inches to nine inches.

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because I think that's going to help my trousers drape even better. Something that I'm experimenting with because once again, like I was saying, everything that I own is eight inches. So going from eight to nine is kind of a big jump, but I think that I'm going to like it. So the first suit that I'm getting in that configuration should be here next month. They did send me a trowel suit, so I tried them and they look pretty nice. The only thing is the trowel suit did not come with suspender buttons and

05:34
Obviously, they didn't come with belt loops because I don't do belt loops on my tailored clothing. So I couldn't tell 100% exactly where the trousers are going to fall because I always get the waist done slightly larger than my actual waist so that I can float it with suspenders. Since I couldn't wear suspenders, I had to hold the pants up a little bit. So I'm not 100% sure exactly how they're going to look.

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when I get the final product. I'm about 90% sure, but not 100% sure. So I'm looking forward to the final product so I can see exactly how it looks. But I think I'm going to like nine inches and going forward. That's probably what I'm going to get on all of my trousers. The thing is, if you do want nine inch leg openings, you probably won't be able to get that off the rack because this is one of those things that you can't change. The trousers are going to be a certain width.

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and you can't extend the width. You see what I'm saying? So if it's eight and a half or whatever it is, that's just going to be what you have to deal with. That's one thing to consider. So that's why going forward, I'm definitely leaning towards custom a lot more than off the rack. And you just part of growth really, because I'm tired of trying to shop.

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online for things and they don't have my size or they don't have the color that I'm looking for. So I think custom going forward is probably where I'm going to definitely be looking into more. I do have a few custom suits now but most of my suits are of the rack so I think going forward that's going to switch. That's not to say you shouldn't be buying your clothes off the rack. Obviously, if you can find something that fits you the way that you like definitely do that.

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And I'm not saying that I'm going to stop doing that all have to worry about, okay, so these trousers are not going to Now a few things that I recommend when you get in your which makes sense, but there are certain things that the

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that those things are done well off the rack because your tailor won't be able to alter them. The first thing would be the hips. That's one thing I noticed with a lot of guys is that the pockets flare and that's not something that you want. So you definitely wanna make sure that the hips fit because if they don't, your tailor won't be able to adjust that.

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So when you put the trousers on, make sure you are turning on your side or actually you want to make sure you're looking straight on when you're looking at the mirror and that the pockets are not bulging out on the side looking like they have ears. So very, very important that you check that out. Another thing which is extremely important is the rise of the trousers.

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because that's what's going to determine where you're going to wear the trousers. Most guys wear their trousers on their hips, kind of like the way that they wear jeans. But when you're wearing tailored clothing, your trousers should be on your natural waist, which is where your belly button is. So if the rise is not long enough, it cannot be extended. So you want to make sure that the trousers already have a higher rise.

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If you are looking at fashion brands, you're definitely not going to find any higher rise there. So be very mindful of where you're shopping and what kind of style that they have.

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Another thing also is the thighs. Because you're going to be at the mercy of how much extra fabric is in the trousers. So when you're trying trousers on and you see that it's very tight in the thighs, you should definitely size up. Because there's a good chance there may not be enough fabric in the thigh area to let out. And you don't really want to play around with that. So just get...

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wider trousers if that's the case that's going to fit better in the thighs. If you can get those things right that's a really good start and there are other things also that I'm going to mention later but those are more personal preferences but those three things that I just listed are essential every trousers should have those and just to recap I'd say the hips are

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The pockets are going to flare, which is never attractive. The second thing would be the rise. That way you can wear your trousers at your natural waist. And the third thing would be the thighs because you want to make sure that they fit you properly, because there may not be enough fabric to let it out. Now, a few things that I was saying before that I look for in trousers and when I don't see them,

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the trousers aren't for me. The first one are going to be pleats. So if the trousers don't have pleats, they're not for me. I only have one pair of trousers that do not have pleats. And that's only because I like that suit. So every now and then I still wear it, but it's probably the suit that I wear the least.

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And if you were to look at my closet, you wouldn't even really see it because I have limited space. So it's like all the way in the back, the way you can't really see. But every now and then I get in the mood to wear that suit. So I do put it on. So brown suit, it's kind of a pinhead suit. So it's a nice suit. It just doesn't have pleats. So because of that, it doesn't get that much play. But going forward, I definitely would not buy any suit without pleats.

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And one question I do get posed is which one is better, a reverse pleat or a forward pleat? If you're unfamiliar, reverse pleats are probably the more common option. And those are the ones that face in the same direction as your pockets versus the forward pleat face the same direction as the fly. And I really love pleats because they do play a function. So when you sit,

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they're going to open to give you more room. Due to the pleats, they are more material on the front of the trousers. So they really do come in handy for that reason. Personally, I don't think one is better than the other. As far as a reverse or a forward pleat, most of my trousers do have reverse pleats because like I was saying before, most of my suits are off the rack. And the suits that I do buy, they do come

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with single reverse pleats. So that's the reason why most of my trousers have that configuration. But typically when I go custom, I go with a forward pleat just to have more variety. But I do have more reverse pleats than I do forward pleats because of that. The second thing that the trousers have to have, and that one's easy because that's something that you can add afterwards, and I'm speaking about cuffs.

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I cuff every single trousers that I have, except for tuxedo trousers. I've heard people say that cuffs are a little bit less formal. I mean, that could be the case, but I don't really look at it that way because cuffs not only do they look good, they also play a function, which is they're draped better because the bottom of the trousers are going to be a bit heavier due to the extra fabric. So.

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I don't look at them as being less formal, although technically they probably are. So those are the two things. If the trousers do not have them, they're not for me. And as I was saying before, I do wear suspenders. I don't wear belts on my tailored clothing. So definitely no belt loops. They should have side tabs. Funny thing about side tabs, they've never actually worked for me as far as being functional.

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It's more of a look because if my trousers didn't have any belt loops or side tabs, I think that they look like something is missing, but they've never been able to actually hold my trousers up. So they're really just there for, for looks, but my trousers need to have side tabs since they don't have any belt loops. And by the way, there's not anything wrong with wearing a belt versus wearing suspenders.

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I do think that the suspenders do a better job of holding the trousers up because you never have to worry about adjusting them. And also the trousers hanging from your shoulder as opposed to hanging from your from your waist is definitely better. But there's nothing wrong with wearing belts. It's just one of the things that I don't do. And also cuffs, once again, it's a preference, you know, so I always go for two-inch cuffs. If you are

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I'd say 6'3" and up. We can probably go for two and a half, you know? And if you are under 5'8", then I would do one and a half because it does break the line of sight. So you don't want to have higher cuffs because it's going to make your legs look a little bit shorter. But my trials just have to have cuffs, man. And I've heard guys say, aren't cuffs dated? I also get the same questions about pleats.

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And once again, like I was saying, those things are not just there for looks. They are also functional. And to me personally, trousers just look odd when I don't see those things. And that just all in my head because I've been wearing my trousers that way for so long. So it's not something that I always push on my clients, but I do recommend it. Especially if I see that is going to go with them and they're looking to dress more the way that I dress, so I don't hold back any secrets.

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I'm all those guys I'll tell you everything as far as what I do because I don't feel like we're going to look the same. I always feel like we're going to look different even if we weren't the same exact thing. So I don't gatekeep so whatever it is that I do, I tell my students everything. But I try not to push it on everybody because I know it's not for everybody.

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Now let's talk about the length of the trousers. A few things. Number one, I feel like the length should be long enough so that your socks aren't too visible when you're standing still. If it's visible at the side a little bit, that's cool, but I don't think it should be so much socks showing. It just looks like you're wearing somebody else's trousers. As far as breaks, I think that's a personal thing.

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So with me, I don't do a break, although when I jump to having nine inches, I might have a very slight break, but I usually leave it up to my clients, whatever they like, you know, because they do ask me, should they do a break? Shouldn't they do a break? I'm like, it's whatever you like, you know, show them different pictures, if they're not really familiar, so they can kind of see what their style is. And that's once again where a good tailor comes in, because they'll be able to guide you with those things. I think that

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menswear is a beautiful thing. But at the same time, I don't think that we should all look the same. So the way that you like your trousers could be the way that you show your own style. It just me personally, I do a very slight break, if any, or no breaks on mine. So we'll see how that goes once I get my nine-inch leg opening to see exactly how it's going to look. Cause like I was saying before, when I tried them on, I couldn't really tell a hundred percent.

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where they're going to end up. Only thing I would say is definitely don't make them too short to where your socks are showing too much. And obviously you don't want them to pull at the ankles either, so not too long. Because both of those are going to look like you're wearing somebody else's trousers. Either your dad's trousers or your little brother's trousers. I don't know which one is worse. But there are two types of guys, man, that's for sure. You know, you have the guys who aren't really into menswear like that.

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Most of those guys are going to be wearing the trousers too long. And then you have the guys who love menswear and things that they can dress. And I call those guys the GQ crowd. And most of those guys are going to be wearing trousers too short. So you want to strike the right balance and be right in the middle.

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And if you are looking for some nice trousers, because I've been getting that question a lot recently, I receive about two or three emails and also comments on my videos, where can one find some really nice trousers that are high rise with pleats, because a lot of brands, they don't make those types of trousers. So I do get that question a lot. And the brands that I'm going to mention, those are not sponsored. So those are just brands that I like.

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And I think that you may like them as well, but I'm not getting anything from those brands. The first one is Spier & McKay. They make really nice trousers and retail probably around 130 to start, I would say. And the high-rise trousers do come with a single pleat. And as the name states, they have a high rise. The second brand that I would recommend is Natalino.

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They do make some really nice trousers as well. Very similar price and similar style to Spier & McKay. Although their rise is all a little bit higher, the last time I checked. So that's definitely a brand that I recommend. The third brand would be Kit & Blake. That's another brand. Although I haven't tried them personally, but some of my friends have, and from what I can see on their site and on Instagram, they do a really nice job.

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the trousers left finally a bit wider also because they have different styles. So if you are looking for wider leg opening, Kit & Blake will be able to play that role for you. And the fourth company I would recommend is a company called Berg & Berg. They also make really nice trousers. They have a couple of different configurations, some with pleats, some without. So those are the four companies if you're looking for trousers similar to the ones that I wear with the high rise and the pleats.

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This is the company that I would go to. Now some of those companies do offer to make the cuffs for you. So you just have to pick the end seam height. The end seam is going to be the length of the trousers. So if you know your end seam measurements, you can enter it and then you pay an extra $20 or so to have the cuffs added. Tell them what size cuff you want. Personally, I don't recommend that because once you do that, that means you cannot return the trousers if something were to go wrong with the measurements.

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That's why it's very important that you have your own tailor that you can take your trousers to. So even though it sounds like it's easier to just get them through the cuffs so that you don't have to take a trip to the tailor, I wouldn't recommend it. Unless you're in a rush and you're not going to have time to go to the tailor so you're just waiting for the trousers for an event, then maybe. And also if you tried them before and you already know their measurements, you know your exact inseam, then it's definitely much safer to do so.

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but overall I don't recommend it. So thanks for tuning into number 27. And this was an episode about trousers and come back again next week for another fire episode of I'm Not A Gentleman. Peace.

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Outro music: Back in that bag, in that bag, again
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