Kayaking Madagascar's Longest River - The Mangok with Oscar Scafidi

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Oscar Scafidi has spent two decades living and working across 36 countries in Africa — writing travel guides for Bradt, teaching African history, and launching himself down some of the continent's most remote rivers. In 2022, he and a teammate attempted the first descent of Madagascar's Mangoky River: 750km, 28 days, and a 200km portage across a waterless mountain range that nearly broke the expedition before it began.

The Mangoky has no agreed source — no GPS coordinates, no signpost. Getting to the start meant heading towards a mountain and asking locals which way the water flowed. Getting to the finish meant nine days on foot through terrain with no water and no settlements, carrying a 40kg Klepper folding kayak in pieces, before finally reaching the river proper.

This episode covers the full story — the five years of planning, the crocodiles, the schistosomiasis, the team dynamics, and the entirely unplanned French feast that closed it all out.

 
Chapters:
00:00 Crocodile Canyon and why hippos are the real danger
01:28  Oscar Scafidi, expedition kayaker and Africa travel writer
03:45 From Italy to Sudan — how an accidental teaching job started everything
07:35 Why Africa? The British Airways flight that set Oscar up for the continent
09:45 Travel writing and Bradt guides — how an accidental career took off
13:25 The Angola Kwanza River expedition — how Oscar became an expedition kayaker
18:10 Why Madagascar? Five years of planning a first descent
20:55 Finding the source of the Mangoky — a river with no agreed starting point
23:35 The 200km portage — when the worst-case scenario gets worse
27:05 The Klepper kayak — a century-old design built for expeditions
31:00 Crocodiles, pirogues, and 50km days on the main Mangoky
47:25 Schistosomiasis, team dynamics, and 28 days of isolation
49:00 Finishing on the Mozambique Channel — a surprise ending and a French feast
55:00 Pay it forward — Our Kids Are Future Madagascar
 

Oscar Scafidi — travel writer, history teacher, expedition kayaker

Website / expedition: kayakthemangoky.com

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ScafidiTravels

Documentary: https://youtu.be/KlVlWQcZlA8

Book: Kayak the Mangoky 

Charity: Our Kids Are Future Madagascar — educational charity supported by 25% of book profits

For full show notes and links, visit: adventurediaries.com/podcast

Transcript

[CHAPTER: Cold Open — Crocodile Canyon and hippos on the Mangoky River — ~00:00]
 
OSCAR: The one benefit of the Madagascar trip was that there are no hippos, and we learned on the Angola trip that hippos are a much bigger concern than crocodiles. Hippos are very territorial. They're aggressive. They kill far more people than any other land-based mammal in Africa.
 
One of the portage sections that we did was specifically on the advice of Max, because he did not want us paddling through a quite steep gorge that was called Crocodile Canyon by the locals. He thought that was a bad idea, having looked at the Klepper. So we took his advice, and that added more portage — because the communities that live by the river are relatively poor and don't really have many sources of protein. Unfortunately, they actually poach a lot of the crocodiles.
 
One of the major differences between our Angola expedition and our Madagascar expedition was finding the source. In Angola, the source is very well established — it's on Wikipedia, there's a GPS location, it's signposted when you get there. In Madagascar, there's no universally agreed location for the source of the Mangoky.
 
CHRIS: Why is that?
 
[ANNOUNCER: Welcome to the Adventure Diaries Podcast, where we share tales of adventure, connection, and exploration — from the smallest of creators to the larger-than-life adventurers. We hope their stories inspire you to go and create your own extraordinary adventures. And now, your host, Chris Watson.]
 
[CHAPTER: Guest intro — Oscar Scafidi, expedition kayaker and Africa travel writer — ~01:28]
 
CHRIS: Welcome to another episode of the Adventure Diaries. Today we're joined by Oscar Scafidi — travel writer, history teacher, and expedition kayaker who, over the last two decades, has lived and worked across 36 countries on the African continent. Oscar has written travel guides to Africa for Bradt, spent years living in Angola, Madagascar, and Ethiopia, and has undertaken some remarkable long-distance paddling expeditions.
 
In today's episode, we explore Oscar's first descent of Madagascar's Mangoky River — all 750 kilometres of it. We discuss what it's like to navigate this river, what it takes to endure an incredible 200-kilometre portage that feels like an expedition in its own right, and how to navigate remote deltas brimming with crocodiles. It's an absolutely epic expedition and conversation. So please settle in and enjoy this fantastic conversation with Oscar Scafidi.
 
Oscar, welcome to the Adventure Diaries. How are you?
 
OSCAR: I'm good. Thank you for having me, Chris.
 
CHRIS: It's a pleasure. This expedition — your Mangoky River expedition — is exactly the kind of thing I love getting into on this show. Thank you for joining us today. Actually, is it "Mangoky" or "Mangochi"? Let's get that out of the way.
 
OSCAR: It's Mangoky. But I was only told that at the end of the expedition, so unfortunately my entire documentary film features me and Ben mispronouncing it.
 
CHRIS: I've got a habit of mispronouncing things — listeners quite enjoy reminding me of that in DMs and emails, so no offence intended. Thank you, Oscar. This has taken a little bit of diary juggling today, but I do appreciate your time.
 
[CHAPTER: Younger Oscar — from Italian childhood to Africa via a teaching job in Sudan — ~03:45]
 
CHRIS: As we usually do on the show, let's set a bit of context about you and your background before we get into the adventure. I believe you grew up between the UK and Italy — is that right?
 
OSCAR: Yeah. I was born in Italy — my dad's Italian, my mum's British — and I spent the first six or seven years of my life there. Then my parents split and I moved to the UK with my mum. Hence the accent.
 
CHRIS: It doesn't sound very Italian, the accent.
 
OSCAR: No.
 
CHRIS: What was younger Oscar like in terms of exposure to adventure and the outdoors?
 
OSCAR: I don't think I was that adventurous. I was quite lucky to get a scholarship to a fairly fancy school in the south-east of England, and through the school I did get to do a lot of outdoor pursuits — the Duke of Edinburgh Award, the Combined Cadet Force, multi-day camping trips. But I just viewed that as normal at the time. It wasn't until much later in adult life that I realised that was going to be a big part of my interests.
 
CHRIS: And you're a writer as well — you write for Bradt?
 
OSCAR: Yes. Bradt Travel Guides — they're a UK publisher. I write travel guides to Africa for them.
 
CHRIS: Did you go straight into adventure and travel guide writing, or did you have a vocation before that?
 
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OSCAR: I had a vocation before that, but it was almost an accidental one. When I graduated from university I really wanted to get into advertising — not exactly sure where I got that idea from. Luckily for me, I was unsuccessful. I spent a whole year after uni getting rejected by all the big advertising agencies in London.
 
Then, on a complete whim, I saw a job opportunity posted on the university careers notice board for teaching in Sudan. At that stage I was probably 20 or 21, had never ventured outside western Europe, and I just went for it. The rest kind of built on top of that.
 
CHRIS: And at the latest count you've done about 36 countries on the African continent?
 
OSCAR: I'm currently doing a long weekend in my 36th. I'm speaking to you from Nairobi in Kenya — I thought I'd come over and visit some friends. African country number 36.
 
CHRIS: What's Nairobi like?
 
OSCAR: It's beautiful. I'm currently based in Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, but Nairobi seems fantastic. It's a little bit lower — only 1,600 metres as opposed to where I live at 2,300 metres — so I'm appreciating that when I go running. And it's a little bit warmer, which I definitely appreciate.
 
CHRIS: It's minus five here in Scotland. Avalanche warnings yesterday up in the islands. Why the draw to Africa? What keeps bringing you back?
 
[CHAPTER: Why Africa? — the chance encounter on a British Airways flight that changed everything — ~07:35]
 
OSCAR: That's a tough one. The first time I ended up in Africa was completely unresearched. I took the job in Sudan and then I ended up loving it. I think I knew I was going to love it even before I arrived.
 
I remember I was on a British Airways flight from London to Khartoum, the capital of Sudan, going via Beirut. When we landed in Beirut, everyone got off the plane except for one person and me. It was a rather awkward situation — I was at the front, he was at the back — and then when the plane took off again, this Sudanese gentleman came and sat next to me and spent the next two hours or so extolling the virtues of Sudan, telling me how amazing it was, what a good time I was going to have, inviting me to meet his family. That set me up for success. It showed me the level of hospitality I could expect, and when I got there I just had such a fantastic time. I knew I wanted to spend more time in that part of the world. But I really came at it from a position of knowing absolutely nothing when I moved out there in 2006.
 
CHRIS: How long were you there in Sudan?
 
OSCAR: One year in total. But as soon as I got back, my friend Mark and I came up with a fairly hair-brained scheme to go back to Africa. We bought a 1973 Land Rover Series III — a beautiful vehicle, I really wish I still had it — and drove it from London down to Liberia, along the west coast, one summer. Covered about 14 countries, only had one major breakdown.
 
CHRIS: Only one — that's pretty good.
 
OSCAR: Unfortunately, that breakdown was in a national park full of leopards. But we survived.
 
CHRIS: I take it there was no AA roadside assistance out in that neck of the woods.
 
OSCAR: Absolutely not. We were completely on our own. Our guide was very unimpressed when we broke down — he was genuinely concerned about the leopards when he realised we had to hike out.
 
[CHAPTER: Travel writing and Bradt guides — how an accidental career took off — ~09:45]
 
CHRIS: When did the writing for Bradt come into play?
 
OSCAR: I first wrote for Bradt in 2011. I'd moved to Angola in 2009 for a teaching role — I'm a secondary school history teacher by profession, mainly African history. I knew that Bradt already had a guidebook to Angola, so I contacted them and asked if they wanted an update. The previous author happened to be someone I already knew — he'd been my editor for a website I'd written for free for many years. So he was able to recommend me to Bradt, and it took off from there.
 
CHRIS: Were you doing the adventures and the writing at the same time, or did the writing plant the seeds for the expeditions?
 
OSCAR: I think it was the other way around. The first big trip was the Land Rover drive down west Africa. After that, I wrote speculatively to specialist magazines like Land Rover Monthly, and I got a very positive response from publications across the world — South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, the USA, Canada, the UK. I started thinking: maybe this is a viable career if I can come up with weird and wacky enough adventures that people want to read about.
 
CHRIS: How was the Land Rover adventure received?
 
OSCAR: Really well — which surprised me, because we'd done it on a complete shoestring. I think we paid £795 for the Land Rover. We ended up spending more than that on fuel just to get it halfway down the continent. A friend suggested I try contacting some magazines, and I had no idea people were interested in reading about that sort of thing.
 
CHRIS: Good bit of validation. Although the money available for that kind of writing has changed a lot, hasn't it?
 
OSCAR: Massively. The amount I was getting paid per article back in 2006 or 2007 — those days are long gone.
 
[CHAPTER: The Angola Kwanza River expedition — how Oscar became an expedition kayaker — ~13:25]
 
CHRIS: How long, sorry — I'm jumping around a bit, but you'd done a similar expedition in Angola, the Kwanza River. Was that your first proper expedition of that nature?
 
OSCAR: Absolutely. Prior to the Kwanza expedition in 2016, the most kayaking I'd done was an afternoon on a reservoir or an afternoon of sea kayaking in Cornwall. I certainly wouldn't have called myself a kayaker. But my friend Alfie — who I did the trip with — suggested it. He had a lot more kayaking experience than I did, and I think he knew I was the only person stupid enough to say yes. So I said yes, and then had nine months to get ready, a lot of which was me learning how to kayak.
 
CHRIS: Angola 2016 to Madagascar 2022 — did you feel after Angola that you'd ever do it again?
 
OSCAR: I was very determined we were going to do something like it again. It was just life getting in the way, and quite a lot of it was COVID. It was not my original intention to have a six-year gap between kayaking expeditions, but that's just how it worked out.
 
[CHAPTER: Why Madagascar? — local knowledge, remote rivers, and five years of planning — ~18:10]
 
CHRIS: What drew you to Madagascar specifically?
 
OSCAR: I lived in Madagascar between 2017 and 2019 — I'd moved there for a teaching role at the American School of Antananarivo, the capital. As soon as I arrived — the year after the Angola expedition — I had it in mind: we are going to kayak the longest river in Madagascar. I started doing the research on the ground in 2017, but it wasn't possible to do while I was working at the school. I left in 2019, and then COVID hit.
 
The main reason it was Madagascar is because I'd lived there. I would never want to do an expedition like this in a place I hadn't spent a significant amount of time in previously. You have local networks, a better understanding of how the bureaucracy works, the security situation.
 
CHRIS: How did you build the team on the ground — the fixers, the guides?
 
OSCAR: I asked a load of adventure travel companies on the ground back in 2017. The vast majority said absolutely not — they didn't want to take responsibility for two foreigners getting themselves into trouble in a very remote, quite insecure part of the country. The only company that got back to me with a "yes, maybe" was Remote River Expeditions — a Madagascar-based organisation run by a man called Gary Lear [CHECK: confirm spelling], who's American. They had a lot of experience on the Mangoky specifically. We ended up in a five-year email chain.
 
CHRIS: Five years?
 
OSCAR: Because I first contacted him in 2017 and we didn't enter the country until 2022. So yes, a long history before we even got started. They were a real integral part of the planning — suggestions for the source location, the main challenges we'd face, and hooking us up with excellent guides. Our main guide was a man called Max — shout out to Max, thanks for keeping us alive. He was with us essentially the whole time, dipping in and out, checking in at agreed meeting points, and leaving us with local guides during the portage sections.
 
[CHAPTER: Finding the source of the Mangoky — a river with no agreed starting point — ~20:55]
 
CHRIS: One of the differences you mentioned was finding the source. In Angola it was well established, but in Madagascar there's no universally agreed location for the source of the Mangoky. Why is that?
 
OSCAR: Partly a lack of interest from the scientific community — specifically the hydrological community who carry out river studies — and partly because it's in such a remote area that it would be quite difficult and expensive to do that research and establish it definitively. We ended up relying on some French hydrological reports that made roundabout references to the source location in relation to a mountain. They certainly didn't give a GPS location. So we headed towards the mountain and then relied on local advice to work out exactly where it was.
 
[CHAPTER: The 200km portage — what happens when the worst-case scenario gets worse — ~23:35]
 
CHRIS: The portage. That was something else. How did that come about — was it planned or unexpected?
 
OSCAR: Unexpected. In our worst-case scenario planning, having looked at the satellite photography, we thought maybe we'd have to do 100 kilometres of portage at most. But once we were on the ground and started talking with Max and trying to tackle some of the earlier sections, we all began to realise our original proposed route wasn't going to work. Then Max broke the bad news: your options now mean hiking this way, which brings the portage up to around 200 to 250 kilometres.
 
CHRIS: That must have been a mental blow. What about food and water?
 
OSCAR: The big one was water. Going over the mountain range there's a complete lack of it. We had water filtration devices — Water-To-Go bottles — so we were drinking from the river and streams most of the time. But heading into a section with no water, we would absolutely have run out had it not been for our local guides, who seemed to have an uncanny ability to look at the topography and understand where there would be groundwater.
 
CHRIS: How was morale between you and Ben on the portage?
 
OSCAR: Ben and I had very different experiences of that section. Ben is a much bigger gentleman than I am — over six foot, significantly larger. He'd been having a hard time in the kayak because his lower back wasn't used to the positioning and the stress. So actually Ben preferred the portage at first. He's a strong guy, perfectly happy carrying 25 to 30 kilograms up a hill. He found that a lot more comfortable than the kayaking. Whereas I was the reverse — I was desperate to do as much kayaking as possible and very, very upset every time we had to break down the Klepper and start carrying it.
 
[CHAPTER: The Klepper kayak — a century-old design built for expeditions — ~27:05]
 
CHRIS: The Klepper. I hadn't seen one before watching your documentary. It's a folding kayak — birchwood frame, canvas skin. Tell me about it.
 
OSCAR: I'd never heard of Klepper until Alfie produced one in Angola in 2016. They're a German company — been around since the very early 1900s — and essentially their design hasn't changed very much in the past hundred years. They make collapsible kayaks. The skeleton is made from birchwood — lightweight, flexible — and then you pull a skin over it. The skin comes in various materials depending on how modern you want.
 
In Angola we used an antique Klepper Alfie had bought, which was actually made in 1960. Incredible that it was still up to the task. For Madagascar, by that stage I'd become a brand ambassador for Klepper because of what we'd done with the Angola boat. So they gave us a brand-new Klepper Aerius II [CHECK: confirm model] — a 5.45-metre kayak, the updated version. All in, it weighed about 40 kilograms with all the components. Fantastic craft — collapsible, flexible, good top speed, and it can carry over 350 kilograms of material. We ruled out packrafts pretty quickly for these expeditions: top speed's not fast enough, they can't carry enough, and they're too fragile when crocodiles are in the equation.
 
CHRIS: How did you carry it during the portage?
 
OSCAR: The skeleton breaks down into multiple sections — ribs and two main frame sections. Ben took the skin and a lot of the ribs. He had more weight but it packed into an actual rucksack. Whereas I took the two most unwieldy bits — the main frame section that folds. So I was walking along at about 2.4 to 2.6 metres tall, with the frame rocking as I walked, crashing into things in the forest, falling over and having it hit me in the back of the head. A total pain.
 
[CHAPTER: Crocodiles, pirogues, and 50km days on the main Mangoky — ~31:00]
 
CHRIS: Crocodiles — did you see any?
 
OSCAR: We did. Sections of the Mangoky have very large crocodiles, and there are multiple recorded fatalities where people have been taken near the water. One of the portage sections was specifically because Max didn't want us paddling through Crocodile Canyon. However, because the communities living near the river are relatively poor and poach a lot of the crocodiles for protein, most of what we saw were relatively small. Only a few were big enough to be a genuine concern.
 
CHRIS: What about camping at night next to the river?
 
OSCAR: Always next to the river — we'd drag the Klepper out, flip it to dry, and camp. We took precautions: made sure we were back at least 10 to 20 metres from the water's edge, kept the fire between us and the water to deter crocodiles. Mostly we weren't that worried. We just made sure we never went to the water's edge in the dark.
 
CHRIS: Did you see much other wildlife?
 
OSCAR: The joy of an expedition in Madagascar is there's almost nothing that can kill you on land — no venomous snakes, no venomous spiders. The big highlight was lemurs. They're endemic to Madagascar, and on a couple of occasions we saw large troops of them swinging in the trees as we paddled past. Some make incredibly loud calls — they sound a bit like whales. We also saw fantastic bird life and chameleons.
 
CHRIS: What about the communities along the river?
 
OSCAR: Everyone was warm and welcoming, but extremely surprised. Trying to explain what we were doing was a little complicated — people just couldn't get their heads round it. They'd say: why would you possibly want to do that? But they let us camp in their villages, sold us food when they had it, gave us advice about routes and safety. We got a huge amount of support from the Malagasy communities along the river.
 
CHRIS: Did you see anyone else on the water?
 
OSCAR: Yes. In the upper sections there were people in dugout pirogues doing artisanal fishing or crossing the river to tend to rice paddies. The further along we got, the bigger the river and the more traffic we saw. On the main Mangoky section, big barges were being punted up and down. We'd often cut in behind them to draft — sometimes the river was so shallow we'd run aground on sand, but these guys knew exactly which route to take to stay in deep water.
 
CHRIS: What kind of distances were you covering on the main river?
 
OSCAR: Our best day was maybe 45 to 50 kilometres — without working too hard. By contrast, our one-day portage record was also around 45 kilometres, but that was an absolute disaster, much harder on the body, and took a lot more out of us.
 
[CHAPTER: Schistosomiasis, team dynamics, and 28 days completely isolated — ~47:25]
 
CHRIS: You mentioned Ben got ill on the trip — a parasitic disease?
 
OSCAR: Yes — bilharzia, or schistosomiasis. It's a parasitic flatworm that enters through the skin — often via waterborne snails — gets into your organs, and makes you very sick. Looking back, he showed the classic symptoms: one night at the campfire he had incredibly itchy legs and big red marks. That's clearly where the parasites had entered. But we just assumed it was mosquitoes because we were being bitten constantly. He didn't get treatment until after we finished.
 
CHRIS: Did he make a full recovery?
 
OSCAR: He did. It's quite cyclical — your immune system reacts when they enter, you feel rough for a few days, then it calms down for two weeks or so. Then the next cycle hatches in your organs and you feel rough again. But by that stage we'd finished, so he was able to take the medication before the second wave hit.
 
CHRIS: And how did you and Ben manage 28 days together in that level of isolation?
 
OSCAR: I think we did remarkably well. I would never do an expedition like that with someone I didn't already know and trust. Ben and I were already very good friends — we'd known each other from living in Tunisia for years. And we had a serious conversation before the trip about communication — how important it was not to let frustrations fester. Every evening we'd have a structured, honest conversation about anything that needed to be said. We had a few disagreements — one time I pushed to get back on the river when Ben wanted to keep hiking, I got my way, and the river turned out to be rapid-filled disaster. Ben was very unimpressed. But even then we managed.
 
[CHAPTER: Finishing on the Mozambique Channel — a surprise ending and a French feast — ~49:00]
 
CHRIS: What was the ending like?
 
OSCAR: We came out into the middle of nowhere. There's no large settlement at the mouth of the Mangoky on the Mozambique Channel — just a small fishing community. We'd navigated the delta, got lost a few times, gone round in circles, but eventually we camped knowing the next day was the day we'd reach the sea regardless of which direction we took.
 
We expected to do it alone, park up on the beach, and wait for Max. What actually happened was we woke up that morning and Max appeared, by boat, with a group of local men. He'd navigated through the night asking communities if they'd seen two foreigners in a red kayak. He was concerned about bull sharks, but especially about crocodiles in the delta — big ones, with an unlimited supply of fish. He thought it would be much safer to have an engine in the water making noise as we paddled out. Which we appreciated, not least because we would have got completely lost without the local captain.
 
After finishing, we had a six-hour speedboat journey north up the coast to a small coastal town called Belo sur Mer [CHECK: verify]. Then Max had made no accommodation arrangements, so we just showed up — unshowered for a month — on the beach of what turned out to be an extremely smart French-run resort. The owner walked down, looked at us, asked where we'd come from. When we explained, he clapped his hands, called all hands to action, and made us this fantastic feast. Clean sheets and a shower to follow. It was a completely unplanned and rather wonderful end to the trip.
 
[CHAPTER: Pay it forward — Our Kids Are Future Madagascar — ~55:00]
 
CHRIS: Our closing traditions — starting with a pay-it-forward recommendation.
 
OSCAR: We raised money during the expedition for a grassroots educational charity called Our Kids Are Future Madagascar. What they do is very simple — they get primary school children back into school. A lot of poor communities in Madagascar can't afford even the small fees required or the basic materials like a notebook. So the charity pays the fees and the children go back into school. No middleman, very efficient, very cheap. Given my background as a teacher, I'm passionate about every child having access to education. We raised about $5,000 US during the trip through donations. I'm also donating 25% of the profits from my book to that charity, and I'd really encourage people to get involved if it sounds like a worthwhile cause.
 
CHRIS: And a call to adventure?
 
OSCAR: I might have a slight conflict of interest here because I've written the guidebook — but please visit Angola. A lot of people write it off for various reasons, but it has never been easier to visit. Visa on arrival now for almost every nationality, much cheaper than it used to be. You've got everything from the Congo Basin Rainforest in the north to the Namib Desert in the south, some of the best surf in the world on the Atlantic coastline. I lived there for five years and it's one of my favourite countries in Africa.
 
CHRIS: Oscar, before we wrap up — tell us about the book.
 
OSCAR: It's the story of the expedition — it's called Kayak the Mangoky. It's available as an e-book on Amazon right now. The paperback is coming out imminently, just in time for Christmas. And as I mentioned, 25% of the profits go to the educational charity in Madagascar.
 
CHRIS: Fantastic. And where can people find out more about Oscar and all your writing and adventures?
 
OSCAR: My YouTube channel is Scafidi Travels [CHECK: verify channel name — transcript says "Graffiti Travels" but the URL provided is youtube.com/c/ScafidiTravels]. You can watch the documentary about Madagascar there, the Angola documentary, and plenty of other content from my travels. The official expedition website is kayakthemangoky.com — you can see the tracking map, full kit list, that kind of thing.
 
CHRIS: Oscar, thank you very much. It's been absolutely epic. And with that, we'll bring this one to a close.
 
[ANNOUNCER: Thanks for tuning in to today's episode. For the show notes and further information, please visit adventurediaries.com/podcast. And finally, we hope to have inspired you to take action and plan your next adventure — big or small — because sometimes we all need a little adventure to cleanse that bitter taste of life from the soul. Until next time, have fun and keep paying it forward.]