The Magnifique Podcast
Hi guys! Welcome to Magnifique, your favorite fashion lovers podcast.
My names Gabrielle and I’m a fashion industry newb, though I’ve loved playing dress up for as long as I can remember. The fashion industry is an intimidating space, filled with elitist know-it-alls, it's hard to feel invited to learn about the rich history behind modern-day fashion.
I started this podcast because time after time, I've tried to find podcasts to learn more about hmm: how Gilded Age fashion influences modern-day attire, or Marc Jacobs being the reason for Louis Vuittons ready-to-wear line, OR how Levi Strauss pioneered Western Denim…and I'm met with a graveyard of results. I can't find anything! So I guess if I want something in this niche, I must do it myself. I invite you to join me as I expand my knowledge of the fashion space. Together we'll kinda be geniuses of fashion.
The Magnifique Podcast
Episode 25 - Fashion's Political Battleground: The Zoot Suit Story
The Zoot Suit represents a powerful intersection of fashion, cultural identity, and political resistance in American history. From its origins in Harlem to its role in the 1943 riots, this distinctive garment tells a complex story of self-expression, racial tension, and the criminalization of style.
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hey divas, and welcome to magnafic, your favorite podcast for all things fashion and fashion history. Today we talk about the zoot suit and I'll admit I have sat on this topic for a long time just because I've been sick the entire month of june. But now's as good a time as any, because I feel like it's more topical now, which is unfortunate in the grand scheme of things, but really good for me because I am covering a topical issue. Yay, today's. It's not funny. Today's topic is inspired by my newfound love of reading, specifically reading my fashion encyclopedia, and I feel like I know what you're thinking. Why on earth are you reading an encyclopedia? And, girl, I'll tell you, or I'll tell you if you want me to tell you. Well, I said to myself if I really want to know everything about fashion, I fear I have to read everything about fashion. I fear I do, and I'm not gonna lie to you.
Speaker 1:My favorite time of day fresh out the shower, I have my sleepy time tea ready to go, and I'm cracking open my iPad, opening GoodNotes to my PDF version of my fashion encyclopedia and guess what? I'm reading a few chapters while I sip my tea, until my tea makes me so sleepy that I cannot physically keep my eyes open anymore. And where was I going with that? Oh yeah. So I've been reading a lot and I'll be honest with you, at first my reading comprehension skills were not comprehending. There are so many technical words in this encyclopedia that I have had to Google. I'll be honest with you, I'll even fold your hand when I say it. I had to Google a lot of words, but that's okay, because now I know the words and off rip. I can't tell you a single word that I've had to Google, but I'm sure I have. I'm sure I have. Anyway, and as you know, I've been trying to adopt a superiority complex by deleting all my social media apps and like I still have the accounts, like if you go, look me up, I'm still going to be there. So I'm not lying in that regard. Like I just don't have the apps on my phone, although I did have TikTok, like two days ago, because I'm a fiend and I'm fiending right now. Actually, I'm kind of in a bratty mood and I do think it's because I'm going through TikTok withdrawals. It'd be like that. Also hope again. I'm not falling for it, because it's just all over TikTok right now, everyone being pregnant. I'm not falling for that propaganda, especially not in this day and age. No, thank you. I hope your pregnancy is awesome, but don't wish that on me. Not here, not now. Anyway, how did we get here?
Speaker 1:My superiority complex has led me down so many new hobbies and just I've been deeper diving into my passion for fashion. So I started reading the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion and initially I had no plans. I thought I was just going with vibes, I was just going to see what I could learn. Oh, also, I've been, like I said, sick the entire month of June and I don't understand what it is, but I have just been calling it a head cold and I don't care if that's irresponsible of me. I don't want to know if it's anything else. So anyway, I had no plans when I started my encyclopedia, but I was just going through each letter every night, kind of just picking which articles looked interesting to me. And then I saw a roadmap in the back of the book and it told me exactly which pages to read if I wanted to get a deeper understanding in specific topics, and that ignited my world. It changed my brain chemistry. So now I'm back in school and I'm reading each night and checking off my sections and taking notes and highlighting it might feel amazing.
Speaker 1:So, that being said, I found myself in the z's one night and I ran up on the zoot suit and just immediately I needed to know everything about it as fast as humanly possible. So I did and disclosure I put this next paragraph in AI to see what it would make me, because the future is AI. I don't know. I'm pretty neutral about AI, even though I am learning it at work. We're not talking about work right now. Anyway, the zoot suits and I told me to give you this right now this initial spark ignited a fervent quest for knowledge and immediately upon reading that, I said banking. Fervent is a word that I need to pull out much more often. So please indulge me in this fervent quest for knowledge as I info-dump on all things Zoot Suits, from the Jazz Age to the modern-day homages.
Speaker 1:My journey into the world of Zoot Suits has not only expanded my understanding of fashion history, but has also highlighted the timeless power of style to reflect and shape cultural narratives across generations. Power of style to reflect and shape cultural narratives across generations. So let's talk about the conception of zoot suits. It's actually quite crazy, crazy alert. The zoot suit is an iconic and uniquely American style of dress. It emerged in the late 1930s within the Black youth culture of Harlem, new York. From its Harlem origins it quickly spread popularity amongst working-class minority youth in California, finding adopters in the Mexican-American crowd, filipinos and even a small subset of Japanese-Americans, including those who experienced World War II-era internment camps Not to be confused with 2025-era internment camps.
Speaker 1:The Z suit's origins can be traced back to the drape suit, which is a more relaxed and stylish men's suit that gained popularity in the 1930s, most notably by the Duke of Windsor, Edward VIII. London was a key center for menswear design during both the 19th and 20th century and Frederick Schulte, the Duke of Windsor's personal tailor, is often credited with pioneering the drapesuit in the mid-1930s. So the drapesuit itself was fashioned out of the light V silhouette created by army jacket uniforms army uniform jacket and it was designed purposely with more room in the chest and shoulders of the jacket and then more room in the trousers, and then the jacket itself kind of softly clung to the bottom, creating a drape-ish effect. One fashion writer observed the design emphasized male athleticism and virality. The looser pants created a drape around the leg, which contributed to the zoots. The zoots yeah, we're calling it a zoot To the suit's distinctive flair, the English drape became one of the favorites of the Duke of Windsor and, as Julius J Adams of the New York Amsterdam News noted, many of the more daring of our Americans studied his garments before seeing their tailors so clearly.
Speaker 1:The zoot suit evolved from the drape suit. However, it distinguished itself primarily in its silhouette. The drape suit was a stylish adaptation. The zoot suit took on a more exaggerated form, particularly in the American Southwest. Often those who popularized the zoot suit, particularly Black and Latino youth, did not have easy access to professional tailors and they often altered their oversized suits themselves, adding their own eccentric changes to drape suits to the ride themselves. Adding their own eccentric changes to drape suits to the ride. So this diy tailoring born of necessity and creative ingenuity created the zoot suit signature features a jacket with oversized padded shoulders and a long leg coat reaching to just about or at the knee, and then high waist trousers that were cinched at the waist, the knee and the ankle. The extra fabric and added padding, broadened jacket shoulders and extended jacket length, while cinched trouser waist, created a distinctive and dramatic look I need you to bear with me even though I sound so sick. I swear to god, I've been sick since June 3rd. It's June 23rd, break me out of here.
Speaker 1:The zoot suit, with its exaggerated silhouette that challenged traditional fashion norms, became a powerful symbol of self-expression and often political protest, representing a desire to be seen and heard, particularly among marginalized communities. The Zoot suit offered a prime example of fashion's democratization. As this bold new style gained vast popular appeal, wearers embraced and enhanced their own suits, making it a custom form of personal expression. So as the style became increasingly popular in the Jazz Age, with figures like Count Calloway or Count Bossy frequently wearing the zoot suit in the late 30s into the 40s, it continued to gain national recognition. The lighter arms and the roomier trousers not only contributed to the suit's distinctive look, but also allowed performers to move more freely while performing, further cementing its association with a dynamic and expressive cultural movement. Throughout the first half of the 20th century, black and Brown communities would continue to create fashion that spoke to the desire to be viewed on their own terms and in their own style. So, from Harlem, new York, to Los Angeles, california, let's talk about the Zoot Suit riots.
Speaker 1:The Zoot Suit's history is also marked by an instance of social injustice. Clarissa Esquiera of Los Angeles County Museum of Art described it. It is considered the first uniquely American suit. She says Black and brown youths were often criminalized for the look they adopted. Suit she says Black and brown youths were often criminalized for the look they adopted and this was tragically evident in the summer of 1943. During this period, the press sensationalized the killing of a young Latino man in Los Angeles. The instance known as the Sleepy Lagoon murder, given its location, would go on to arouse fear among white and Angelinas and make Mexican-Americans the target of law enforcement. As we know, in this country in particular, there is nothing more dangerous than white fear, aka racism. And this racially charged atmosphere, combined with other factors, set the stage for a period of intense conflict Police racially profiled individuals wearing the suit, unjustly beating them and apprehending hundreds of young men, including Black and Filipino Americans.
Speaker 1:The summer of 1943 saw escalating racial tensions, culminating in the infamous Zoot Suit riots, fueled by sensationalized media coverage, particularly in Los Angeles, which often labeled zoot suits as freak suits. Land servicemen engaged in a five-day period in June 1943 where they stalked the streets of Los Angeles, attacking Mexican-American zoot suiters. As the Los Angeles Herald Express infamously put. Quote grab a suitor, take off his pants and his coat and tear them up or burn them. End quote. The atmosphere was thick with the threat of violence. These riots were not an isolated incident. They occurred amidst a summer of violent upheaval, including race riots in Detroit and New York. However, as historians note, it was only in Los Angeles that a style of dress became a focal point of unrest and figured so prominently in the response.
Speaker 1:For the wearer, the Zootzu represents a freedom over the body, a powerful statement of self-worth. If you think about braceros or the descendants of enslaved African Americans, they were seen as workers observed by one commentator. When you wear this garment, it's saying I'm valuable, I'm more than a worker, I value my body. Several factors contributed to the racial tensions that preceded the riots. Workers needed in the agricultural and service sectors to fill jobs vacated by those serving in the military. An agreement was reached with Mexico to bring in temporary workers from Mexico. However, the influx of Mexican workers was not particularly welcomed by all white Americans. Additionally, the US government's war effort had, by March 1942, begun rationing its various resources. There were restrictions on wool, which had a direct effect on the manufacturing of wool suits and other clothing. These regulations, which effectively prohibited the manufacturing of suit suits, were seen by some as being deliberately ignored by Mexican-American youth wearing the Zoot Suits, which further escalated the racial tension. Even though a network of blue-legged tailors continued to manufacture Zoot Suits, the perception of the suit wearer were un-American and deliberately ignoring the ration regulations and fueled resentment.
Speaker 1:The Zoot Suit riots are commonly associated with the Sleepy Lagoon murders, murder singular which occurred in August 1942. The Sleepy Lagoon was the name of a large revs of war outside the city of Los Angeles. On August 1st 1942, zoot Suiters were involved in a fight near the Sleepy Lagoon. The next morning, a partygoer, jose Diaz, was found dead. There was a public outcry against the Zoot suiters, fueled by local tabloids exploiting concerns about juvenile delinquency. California Governor Colbert Olson used Diaz's death to justify a mouse roundup by the Los Angeles Police Department of 600 men and women, the majority of whom were Mexican-American. The Zoot Suiters who were arrested were tried and in January 1943, 17 were convicted of murder and assault. Despite devious evidence, these convictions of the Mexican-American youth were later reversed and appealed in October 1944.
Speaker 1:From 1942 to 1943, media outlets continued to portray zoot suiters as dangerous gang members capable of murder. Based on these news reports, more and more people began to believe that Mexican-American youth, the zoot suiters, were predisposed to committing crimes. Youth, the Zoot Suiters, were predisposed to committing crimes. It was within this racially charged atmosphere that the conflict between predominantly white servicemen and Mexican-American youth in the area began. Initially these were minor altercations, but they later escalated significantly.
Speaker 1:Within months of the Sleepy Lagoon case, the zoot suit riots erupted. The riots began on June 3, 1943, after a group of sailors claimed they had been attacked by a group of Mexican-American zoot suiters. On June 4, uniformed sailors parted cabs and headed into the Mexican-American communities seeking out zoot suiters. This marked the beginning of a series of conflicts, primarily between servicemen and zoot suiters. Zoot suiters were often beaten by servicemen and stripped of their suits, which were sometimes urinated on or burned in the street. A local paper even published an article on how to zoot a zoot suitor, which included instructions on how zoot suits should be burned. Servicemen were frequently portrayed as heroes fighting against a supposed Mexican crime wave.
Speaker 1:The worst of the rioting happened on the night of June 7th, when thousands of servicemen and citizens prowled downtown Los Angeles, attacking not only zoot suiters but also members of other minority groups who were not even wearing zoot suits. They just wanted to cause a ruckus. So the Los Angeles police often stood by as the violence unfolded, instead of intervening. They frequently arrested the victims of the attacks, claiming that the assailants were acting in self-defense. And, as Alex Waxman, editor of the East Los Angeles newspaper, the East Side Journal, witnessed at the scene, witnessed at the scene and pleaded with the officers to step in, but he was told it was a matter for the military police and they refused to get involved. The violence escalated over two days and the mobs swelled with civilians, sailors, soldiers and marines. Taxi drivers even willingly drove sailors downtown so they could indiscriminately attack any Mexican-American, even if they weren't wearing a zoot suit. Meanwhile, newspapers often praised the attackers and on June 4th the Oakland Tribune described the vigilante mob as a vengeance squad when declared quote we are out to do what the police have failed to do, end quote. Quote we are out to do what the police have failed to do, end quote.
Speaker 1:On June 6th and 7th the mob met resistance when they moved to East Los Angeles and pushed into predominantly Black neighborhoods of Watts in the search of zoot suiters. Rudy Lavis, a teenager at the time, remembered setting traps with his friends Quote. Toward evening we started hiding in alleys and we sent about 20 guys right out into the middle of the street as decoys. They started coming after the decoys. Then we came out. We were surprised. It was the first time anybody was organized to fight them. End of quote. I'm like I had a breath, oh my god.
Speaker 1:The violence and targeting of young men created widespread fear. One mother pleaded with the police quote, end quote Only to be hit in the face with an officer's nightstick. In a desperate attempt for protection, groups of boys even turned themselves into the police, saying things like charge me with vagrancy or anything, but don't send me out there. And finally, on June 8th, riots subsided with military officials, with the southern sector of the Western Defense Command declared Los Angeles off-limits to soldiers, sailors and Marines and ordered military police to arrest disorderly servicemen. Because the local police were completely unable or unwilling to handle the situation, military police were ordered to patrol the parts of the city and arrest disorderly military personnel. The Los Angeles City Council also passed a resolution that banned the wearing of suits on Los Angeles streets, a proclamation that was declared a victory by many residents.
Speaker 1:During the aftermath of the riots, many had offered explanation for the violence. Los Angeles Mayor Fletcher Bowren blamed lawlessness and juvenile delinquency among Mexican-American teenagers. Senator Jack Heaney of the California Senate in fact fighting subcommittee on un-American activities bizarrely claimed that the riots were the work of communist agents and ex-spies stirring up racial troubles. Some Mexican-American leaders, like Eduardo Quevedo, argued that the city needed a police force that was more prompt and equitable in its response to the community. California-based journalist Kerry McWilliams offered a stark assessment. On Monday, june 7, 1943, he reported thousands of Angelenos turned out for a mass lynching, described how a mob of several thousand soldiers, sailors and civilians hunted down every single zoot suitor they could find. So that was dark. I'll admit it, that was a little crazy. I'm so sorry, but that is factual history. So yeah, fashion is inherently political. Well, let's talk about the legacy that the zoot suits carry. The riots resulted in many injuries but remarkably no deaths. However, considerably more Mexican-Americans than servicemen were arrested, upwards of 600 of the former, fueling widespread criticism of the Los Angeles Police Department's response.
Speaker 1:California Governor Earl Warren created a citizens committee to investigate the cause of the Zoot Suit riots. The committee's report indicated several factors contributed that racism was a central cause, exacerbated by the bias and inflammatory media coverage and the actions or inactions of the LAPD. Los Angeles Mayor Fletcher Bowron, perhaps concerned about the riots' negative impact on the city's image, offered his own conclusion, claiming that racial prejudice actually wasn't a factor at all and that the riots were caused by juvenile delinquents. The suit suits beyond its instinctive style, represents youthful masculinity and a bold challenge to racial discrimination. Its popularity extended beyond Mexican-Americans, finding adherence among Black, italian-american, jewish-american, filipino-american and Japanese-American. Even Mexican-American women known as Pachuca's adopted the elements of this style.
Speaker 1:While older generations often didn't quite understand the zoot suit, attributing it to useful expression. The war production boards banned on wearing and manufacturing of zoot suits due to their excessive use of rationed cloth further politicized the garment. The ban made it clear that to some, the zoot suit was more than just a fashion statement. It was a symbol of defiance. The zoot suit riots in Los Angeles stand as a stark example of the demonization of black and brown. Americans through their sartorial choices, americans through their sartorial choices. There's also a movie called Zoot Suit. I didn't read it, I didn't watch it. I did not watch it and I'm so sorry that I did not watch it. That's on me, but most recently we saw iterations of the Zoot Suit at the 2025 McGow. The theme was superfine tailoring Black style Dandyism, if you will.
Speaker 1:Zoot suits are integral to the black American style. There looked to be about 10 renditions of the Zoot suit at the Met Gala. Well, I thought Wabi Lame. Wabi Lame and Chance the Rapper had the best versions, imo, though Zendaya always looked fabulous. That wasn't even a fur consideration, but I felt like Chance the Rapper and Khabi Lame. I googled this pronunciation. Khabi Lame were suits felt the most authentic to what the original Zoot suit looked like, though that could be argued, since each suit was custom to the wearer. Also, did you know that Jekabi Ilane was actually just deported by ICE due to an expired visa earlier this month, and by this month I mean June, so I would look into that. I just saw an MSN article that I read Boom, expired visa. He got detained and sent back. So it never stops, huh.
Speaker 1:So, in conclusion, mizutsu, born from Harlem's black youth culture in the late 1930s, transcended mere fashion to become a powerful symbol of self-expression and cultural identity for marginalized communities all across America. Evolving from the drape suit, its exaggerated silhouette, characterized by oversized shoulders and cinched trousers, was often a result of creative DIY tailoring by those who lacked access to professional tailors by tailoring by those who lacked access to professional tailors, which further cemented its unique flair and personal connection to its wearer. However, this iconic garment's journey is also marked by a tragic social injustice, going back to the Zoot Suit riots in 1943, where racial prejudice and sensationalized mediaed attacks on the wearer. Despite this dark chapter, the Zoot Suit's legacy endures, symbolizing defiance, pride and a timeless testament to how style can powerfully reflect and shape cultural narratives across generations, which we saw at the latest Met Gala. Just continuous appreciation of style and culture.
Speaker 1:And also I'll say something controversial right now I don't think white people should wear zoot suits. I think there's too much cultural significance from all minority groups. I don't think we're allowed to wear them and I will judge you if you wear them. So that's my two cents. Anyway, that's a zoot suit and I will judge you if you wear them. So that's my two cents. Anyway, that's the Zoot Suit and I'm really proud of everything I have looked at for this episode. I will leave all my sources in the show notes so you guys can read more and educate yourself. But until next time. Next time is about the Garment District, so I'm really excited. It was a monster to research. My notes are so long, but I'm really excited. I think I could trim them down to something digestible, see. Anyway, I'm gonna go watch Love Island, so I will see you guys next time. Bye.
