Aimless Dreamers Having Discussions

ADHD 10: Aimless Tech 3 - PC Build Part 3

Aimless Season 2 Episode 7

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0:00 | 1:40:30

Welcome to Aimless Dreamers Having Discussions - the show where curiosity, creativity, and unfiltered thoughts collide! Each episode is a deep dive into whatever aimlessly sparks inspiration, the kind of off-track rambling that somehow ends up exactly where it needs to be.

If you love good vibes, honest conversations, unpredictable tangents, and the joy of exploring whatever your brain obsesses over... than you are also exactly where you need to be :)

R-Rated: For Randomness, Rambling, and Really Questionable Decisions

PC Part Picker
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com

PC Part Links

PC Case - 5000D RS ARGB
https://amzn.to/4qOF8er

Power Supply - Asus Prime 850w
https://amzn.to/46onS8J

Motherboard - Asus ROG Strix B850 (1st link Black, 2nd White)
https://amzn.to/4qTIGw6
https://amzn.to/3OtToMo

CPU - Ryzen 9 9900x 12-core 24-thread
https://amzn.to/4tRXzBD

CPU Cooler - Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120se (1st link Black, 2nd White)
https://amzn.to/4tIMz9I
https://amzn.to/4aNf5OG

Memory/Ram - Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000mhz CL36 (Black, Grey, White)
https://amzn.to/4tSQ2CM
https://amzn.to/46JdU1V
https://amzn.to/4rstbw8

SSD - Western Digital SN850x PCle Gen 4 NVMe M.2 (1tb, 2tb)
https://amzn.to/4rt9IeR
https://amzn.to/4cujb11

SSD Cooler - Thermalright HR-10 2280 Pro (Black, White/Silver)
https://amzn.to/4aJB219
https://amzn.to/4tX0mty

Graphics Card/GPU - Asus Dual Geforce RTX 5060 8gb GDDR7 OC (Black, White)
https://amzn.to/4s20c28
https://amzn.to/46nfW7F

EXTRA'S (Not necessary however highly recommended)

Precision Screwdriver Set
https://amzn.to/3OZIcXO

Flash Drive (2 8gb Usb 3.0 drives required for windows and bios/wifi)
Sandisk 64gb Usb 3.0
https://amzn.to/46mTJXc

Anti-Static Wrist Strap
https://a.co/d/07yM6mVw

Essie Clear, High Gloss/Shine, Enamel Based Nail Polish for Motherboard scratches and peace of mind
https://amzn.to/4qR9T2g

Ethernet 6A Cable, comes in many variations
https://amzn.to/4kSzoPC

Msi 27" Curved 2560x1440 QHD 0.5ms 180hz Gaming Monitor
https://amzn.to/3OYWKHd

Razor Basilisk V3 26k DPI Wired Gaming Mouse
https://amzn.to/4qRaTDy

GK61 60% Mechanical Keyboard
https://amzn.to/46qzqIp

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#technology #techiscool #techisfun #pcbuild #aimlessdreamers #stayaimless #aimlessuniverse #aimdreamhopedrive #trending #hopefully #fyp

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SPEAKER_00

Look, I know everyone despises ads and promotions. I do as well, and I don't want to interrupt the entire episode, so I just want to put this at the front and ask for a minute of your time. That's all. Just a minute, I promise. Through the Hoobie link down below, you should be able to find it. It's a weird name. Um, you can find our link of links, and that gives you access to the Help Aimless Day Aimless fund if you want to directly support the channel. There's our Patreon, the Aim Project, where you have access to everything ad-free. And if you want to pay the $5 a month and help support the channel that way, you'll get access to aimless music, aimless shows, and aimless movies. You can also find our YouTube page Aimless96024, TikTok, Instagram, X, and Bud Sprout for the audio files. There's also Spotify that has video files attached to them. Then there's Apple Music and Apple Podcasts. Unfortunately, no video there. But that's it. That's all I want to tell you. I hope you enjoyed the episode. Stay aimless. See you soon. Hey, welcome to Aimless Dreamers Having Discussions. This is Aimless Tech 3, PC Build Part 3. If uh if you haven't realized, and if you haven't watched them, go check out PC Build Part 1 and Part 2. Um you'll be all caught up after watching those. This is pi PC Build Part 3, and um no, we're not actually building a PC live. However, I will be discussing today uh my my build recommendations, every not everything, uh a good chunk of the things that I learned in the process, and um sorry, realizing how loud this is that I while I'm listening to it. Anyway, um this is PC Build Part 3, and uh this will be the last technology aimless episode that uh comes out for a little bit. I'll need a little bit of a break, obviously, because this thing took a month, if not a little bit more, to make. And I had a lot of help in the process, so shout shoutouts to Eric, Max, and my parents. Again, let's get to it. There's not much to it. Uh, in the last episode, we did we did chat about these these lovely objects in front of us, including the PC case, the power supply, and some accessories that I think are worth noting, at least accessories that I used and I found very helpful. Um, there's not anything leaving out that was like that wasn't helpful, so I I'm not including it. So uh we're gonna talk about the PC case first. If you want a little bit more in-depth on these few topics right here, then I would go check out my last episode. But uh step one, PC case, again, go check out PCPartpicker.com. Uh that will give you a good head start. I would start with a CPU and a GPU you have in mind, and then build around it. Uh but on the PC case uh topic, which I will heavily mention and heavily recommend getting a larger than recommended PC case. It's not gonna look great, it's not gonna probably be great unless you're unless you plan to get a three fan, which you know most people do end up. I have a two-fan, but most people have a three fan. So if you have or want a three fan, a hundred percent just no matter what, get a larger than recommended case. Um so I got the Corsair 5000D RS ARGB. That link is in the description. And really the wire management was a lot easier. The the case assembly makes a lot of sense. I you know my one big ripe with the case is that maybe the fans, you could upgrade the fans, no problem, and that would be a that would be a big big big upgrade. But if you didn't, you'd be just fine. The fans works the fans work fine. It just it depends on your if if you're looking at a 50-70 Ti plus, if you're looking at a 12 gigabyte card or more, then a hundred percent get a bigger case. There's probably low scenario, there's a low chance that you have a two-fan 50-70 Ti, usually you'd get the three fan. But no matter what, if you have a 12 gigabyte, this case is just phenomenal. No, it doesn't look the craziest, or it's not the craziest itself. But I'd highly recommend oh my I'm still slightly sick from a week ago, so uh if I'm having the stuffles in a little bit hard of a time thinking out my thoughts, I am very sorry. So yes, my case is the 5000D RS ARGB, and what do I have written down? It has an incredible amount of room. No matter what you're using, what what your RAM is, which is really the one thing, but I have the largest air cooler you you could get, and it fits just fine. There's like two inches, nah, maybe two inches is a bit much, but there's an inch and a half to two inches of space, if not a little bit more, a little bit less. You know what I mean. Um where am I bringing back? Um it's not it's not the craziest thing in the world, it's not supposed to be. I will have probably a video or pictures popping up as I talk, so hopefully I do. Um the case is insanely large, and yes, it would be too large of a case for what I was trying to do. Not not actually, definitely get wire extensions. So um pre-organized wire management, yes. If you and when you get your PC case, which I would highly recommend getting your PC case and your power supply first. Uh, when you get your PC case, start with the wire management. If you have your power supply, connect the cords that you uh perceive or feel you will need, at least the main essentials your CPU, your your power supply for your GPU and your motherboard. Um there's not much m else other than those three. Uh you'll have to read your manual and you'll have to do a little bit of research online, but those are the main the main points. Um what else? Uh amazing temperatures. Yes, I find I've found, you know, putting the PC together properly, which I know is gonna be the biggest for some people be a difficulty. It depends on how much research you've done, how much you learn about a PC and how to build one. Uh build it properly, take your time to do so, and don't rush the process. Uh amazing temperatures. I'm getting amazing. Uh well, that's the topic. I'm the temperatures of this thing is is very good. Uh the GPU is good, the CPU is good, everything seems like it's running normal, maybe not crazy normal, not crazy temperatures where it's like low 30s, 30s, or high 20s. But the hottest thing running in this is my CPU, which ranges between 40 and 50 degrees, and my GPU, which runs somewhere between 30 and 40 at most times, usually low 30s, which is what I'm getting at. That's really, really good. Uh, with not upgrading the fans, the air circulation seems to very be very good again. Depends on the fans you want to run, the the organization of. If you put fans on the top or bottom, your air, your air circulation is going to be much different than mine. I have three fans on the front, the two in the CPU, one in the rear, I have the two fans on the GPU, I have a a uh aftermarket per se. It's a thermal rate HR 10 Pro. Uh it's the one that has a little baby fan for the SSD card. So I have that as well, and then of course the power supply has a fan. So uh my air circulation is fantastic. You can mess that up pretty easily, so be very careful. It depends on your configuration. Uh, if you're using a liquid cooler, obviously that goes on the top of the case. The case itself, the mod, because it's so modular and there's so much opportunity. I highly recommend if you get any case if you get this case or any case similar to it, you uh you want to take the case completely apart as much as possible that's comfortable for you, so you can understand how the case works and have an idea while watching YouTube or or a YouTube video on the case or a person you like in case uh taking a case apart video and tutorial, and it'll give you a good idea of what you're doing and what you're not doing, and what you should do and what you shouldn't do, and then there's even the things you can do, you don't have to, but if you do it, it might it could help your build a lot depending on what you you personally are using for your build, depending on your CPU, your CPU cooler, um, your GPU, your SSD card, and SSD if you have heatsink, your motherboard, kinda, not really, but you know what I mean. It heavily depends, unless you're building the exact same thing that I built, part by part by part, you're gonna have a different experience building that PC. So, again, let's go back to this PC case, power supply, PC case. Uh, we went over the root the amount of room it has, the pre-organized wire management is very, very nice to have. You won't realize that until you're dealing with fans, which is probably the most pain in the butt thing about a PC is the fan, the fans and their wires. Unless you get upgraded fans that have one set of wires for the power and for the art RGB, if you have it, then you're gonna have a system like mine that has RGB, but it's daisy chained a bunch. So each each fan has two power cords and two RGB cords. And the the case itself had it pre-wired and daisy chained to each other so that you didn't have that much to deal with. And it has many straps and many um many sorry, many straps and a lot of area to work with so that your building experience, especially your wire management experience, is as good as it can be. And really that is a huge pro with uh with the 5000D. So step two is power supply. Nope, sorry. Yeah, I mentioned disemble everything. Step two, power supply. I chose the ACES Prime 850 850 watt based on the GPU I chose, which we'll get to that, but it's an ACES dual sorry, an ACES dual 5060 8GB overclocked card. Um, and based on that card, I was able to choose my power supply. Mentioned in the previous episode, sorry. Um based on a previous episode, choose your power supply based on your GPU. So if all things choose a GPU you're wanting to get, and then pick the PC case and the power supply alongside your GPU, your sorry, your CPU, your motherboard, etc. You know, those are the core essential things. The PC case and the power supply is what I would purchase first. But the power supply, yes, I chose the ACES Dual. Sorry, not ACES Dual. ACES Prime 850 watt. Um, make sure you research the wires. So if you have no idea what what wires are in a power supply, you're gonna want to do that a little bit and have an idea of what you'll need, where it's gonna go in the my wire management, and therefore be able to choose your case a little bit accordingly. Or you can stay on the safe side and get a much larger case than needed and go from there. So, yes, uh make sure you research the wires and have a look into uh power supplies. Definitely the power supply that you're wanting it wanting to get based on the GPU you're wanting it. Sorry, I'm very tired and um trying to sort out my thoughts and my words. Uh what's the next thing? Fully modular. Most power supplies nowadays, if you're building a newer AM4, even if it's a 30 series, it's probably gonna be fully modular. If you're not and you're building a newer series, then even that's even more the case. Very few, very few power supplies that are not fully modular and you don't have much cut uh customization. So, you know, be careful. It depends on what you're wanting to get again, but it being fully modular gives you full flexibility and freedom, and you don't have to worry about the power supply anymore. Um it might require cable extensions. If you did what I did, which I recommend you doing, getting a larger than necessary case so you have extra room and uh more wire management room in the back, then uh you'll possibly want cable extensions. Uh I didn't personally buy any. I didn't end up needing to buy any, but if I did, it would have made my life a lot easier. I wouldn't have used it for everything. I only had an issue with the CPU power supply, which there's two connection points on the motherboard for the CPU, and there was a uh a dedicated port on the top of the case to f you know put the lines through, and I wasn't able to use that because my PC case was so large, my power supply was a power supply meant for a normal size case. So if you got the Corsair 4000D, you'd be fine, you wouldn't have this issue. But because I got the 5000D that adds a couple inches on the length and the width, then all of a sudden your cables for from your power supply are a little too short. So I filtered it through the same hole that the rear fan cables run through, and I use that one to to for my CPU power. It's a tight fit, there's not much slack. That's also my big gripe with it, is that it works, but it just works. So you'd want you'd you'd probably still even want the extra cable length from an extension cable for a power supply or a power supply kit. And I'm sure Amazon has them. I know it's not going to be in this this description. I'm so sorry. But uh, if you click on PC power case and then you it it'll bring you to Amazon and retype in PC case power supply cable extensions, something should pop up that that uh that hopefully will work. Whatever you find, make sure you cross-reference it with the power supply you're wanting to buy and make sure that they are compatible with each other. Uh might require, yes, we went over that. Um I did not take cable length into consideration with my oversized case. And we just went over that. So, really, really, that is the power supply that I got, the ACS Prime 850 watt gold, you know, the gold standard is a good thing to have and a nice thing to have, but it's not necessary. Fully modular is the the bigger thing, but it also it also being fully compatible with the GPU you're buying is the most important thing. If you're getting a normal size PC case, you don't need wire extensions, most likely, especially if I didn't need them. Uh, but again, I'm not sure. I'm basing that based off the cable length length from the Asus Prime that I have, and it just worked. And it didn't even it didn't work through the port that it's supposed to work. So there is a little bit of finickin uh finiciness from uh the PC case you buy, and depending on your GPU and your power supply. So take heavy note of that. Um I just want to try and help make your life a little bit easier and things that I wish I knew starting. 5000D, we went over that. I also, yes, I got a uh a grounding cable. So this one around my wrist, and this other part right here. Um well I literally just put it on any metal piece I could find when I was while I was building the motherboard. Uh put me back. Where am I? While I was building the motherboard, I attached it to the motherboard, even though the motherboard and nothing is hooked up to the power supply and actually has any electric current going through it. I still did it just in case my own electrical current was different than the neutral or not uh electrical electrical current coming from the motherboard. And I just just to be safe, you know, attach it to that while I'm putting together the CPU, the CPU cooler, the SSD, the SSD cooler or heatsink, and the RAM. Um, and that's what I did personally, just give myself the peace of mind. This was fantastic. There is uh no other way to put it. So I also have my two drives that I got, my two flash drives. Both are 64 gigabytes. One is a Canadian Staples brand, and it worked just fine. I use that for um mainly my Wi-Fi drivers and such. But the other one, the f the Sand disk uh 3.064 gigabyte. I use that for my Windows update, my BIOS update, or sorry, well setting up BIOS in the in the first place, and then um the Windows, the Windows update, I used it as well. Uh make sure you format the drive to something 32. Um it should mine were formatted already in that format, so I didn't have to worry about it, but I did double check just to make sure. If not, even just reformat it under the required format, no matter what. And what it'll basically do is default your drive to what you need anyway, even if it's already in that format, but it will fully erase the drive so that it's basically a blank drive that you can use for whatever new software you're trying to put into your PC and not cause problems. Uh going back here, we also have the precision bit driver set, and on it you could just get a PH2, so a Philips head to precision bit driver, and you'd be just fine. I'm not saying that, but if you get the chance, I took the chance and bought a little bit of a kit. It comes with um with an extension rod here, and that proved to be very useful, especially for the motherboard and motherboard screws. Um, but then you just have this forever, and you have every option you could possibly need for a screwdriver set. So, you know, this was uh for me, it was about 15 bucks. For you, it might be different. You can get Them on Amazon, but uh you definitely want a precision bit driver or uh screwdriver, and you might as well spend the extra few dollars to get a full set with full customized customizability so that you can use it for other purposes outside of PC building. Lastly, lastly, so we went over the PC case, the power supply, the precision bit screwdrivers, and the the uh the flash drives. Other than that, you might not need this, and I wouldn't buy it prior to building a PC set, but I wanted to recommend this brand. This here, this here, is nail polish. This is a top coat, and it's by Rev Revlon R-E-V-L-O-N. If you search up on Google, at least for me, it was the top recommended nail polish for a motherboard if you end up scratching your motherboard while trying to put it in the PC case, which, yes, happened to me. So I didn't remove the rear fan. Because I didn't, I had to uh at an angle try and insert the motherboard with all of the weight from the CPU, the CPU cooler, the SSD, the SSD cooler, and the RAM. Not a bright idea. I sh I didn't know that the rear van rear fan could come out, and I didn't remove it. So because I was trigger happy and was just trying to get it in and seated and screwed in, a couple scratches were formed, and I'll probably I'll I'll put them up here so you can see what those scratches look like. And then I did a little bit of digging and saw that a little bit of top coat nailed polish might do the trick and should do the trick. At least give you peace of mind as long as your motherboard doesn't reach crazy temperatures like 50 to 80 degrees. Mine sits around 20 to 25 degrees. That depends on your your build and how you put it together and how careful you were. Heavily reliant on the CPU thermal paste that you use. I will get there, but I used a little bit of a plastic thing and spread the paste myself across the whole CPU so that you know when you set the CPU cooler on and everything heated up, it didn't have to spread itself. It was already spread and just it would fill in any small pieces that I myself missed. Excuse me. So while I had a couple scratches for peace of mind, I did a little bit of research and putting a two or three coat thin coat on the motherboard, on the areas where you scratch, if there's any copper exposed, um, you can use this and it'll give you peace of mind because it'll keep all the air off of those components, off of the copper components, over time they won't fry themselves, basically, or they won't damage themselves. Again, the chances of that happening are very slim. Motherboards are built very well. You don't need to worry about it so much. But if you want to have the peace of mind like myself, then this is harmless. So a couple, two or three coats of Revlon top coat, enamel-free, or no, sorry, enamel-based, high gloss, no additives. I think this is vegan, vegan friendly as well. Um just I put on my first coat, I waited 20 minutes, I put on my second coat, I waited 40 minutes, I put on my third coat, I waited like two hours. And I made sure that it was for me, it was almost a day or I think it was two days until I turned on the PC. So I really gave it full amount of time to cure so that it wouldn't melt under any amount of heat, and it was just it was fully good before I turned on anything. So you don't need to buy it prior to your build, but if you run into that issue, I wanted to bring it up. This is Revlon Enamel based or nail yes, enamel-based. Sorry. This is Revlon nail polish top coat, enamel-based, high gloss, and um I think that's mainly it. Um I don't know why those specifications are important when it comes to a motherboard, but you're dealing with an electronic, and I trust everyone who's gone through the process much more than I trust myself going through it for the first time. And I want to be better uh more safe than sorry. So that is what I did. Now that is step one and step two, fully fully mentioned. We're going to meant uh mention, we're going to move on to step three, the motherboard. Let me grab that right quick. Let me grab that following step two is where we get to the fun stuff. So we have our ROG Strix B850A gaming Wi-Fi motherboard. And yes, I would choose your motherboard based on well, the CPU that you're in it. So this part, this is when then you would need to choose what CPU you are wanting. Again, through PC Park Partspicker.com. Uh link in the description. So I for my motherboard based on the USB ports that I needed, including a USB 3.2 Gen 2 port, uh, for both my capture card, which is in a uh let's go back to me, an Elgato 4K X capture card, and also uh for my my Lacey one terabyte, which is an SSD4, I believe it's uh SSD4. Um uh it uses the same port, it's just a uh external storage. It just it's I don't know how to explain SSD software and hard drive software, but if you're looking at hard drives and SSD drives, there's internal and external for both. However, if you're looking at external, um you'd much prefer to have an SSD than an uh a hard drive. Hard drives work very different than solid state drives, and solid state drives is what you would prefer for well, not only it being quicker and more efficient and and easier on the the the hardware itself, um it's gonna last much longer. You don't have to worry as about as much things. It's gonna work with your phone, with your tablet, with your laptop, with your PC, no matter what. As long as you have a uh uh USB-C port that supports the drive. So my my personal again, I stress this because you could really reduce your CPU and your motherboard um purchases depending on your USB requirements and your CPU requirements. And if you're doing content creation with crazy USB ports like myself, then this was the cheapest, the cheapest motherboard I could find. Um, it's very good quality, very, very, very good quality. That's my first note. Amazing, amazing quality. It very much feels worth it when you open the box for the first time and get to experience a motherboard. Um it's AM5, it has all your four DDR5 slots, and it has uh your your SSD card slots, and it's just it is good. It has all of your USB ports that you'd possibly need. Trust me, you don't need more than one USB 3.2 Gen 2 slot. One is plenty. I have the capture card and the the um the external hard drive running through that same port by just swap them out when I need to. So trust me, trust me on it when I say if you need an AM5 DDR5 port, and again, if you're gaming, you don't need that, but if by chance you do, this is a great motherboard to look at, especially for the price, of course. So, uh what else do I have down here? Uh plenty of USB port selection. It has like four USB A 3.0 ports, it has the USB C 3.2 Gen 2 port, it has a USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, I don't know. It's it'll it'll take any other USB-C port. Um so between the two, and I'm pretty sure it's just two USB-C ports, if that's a problem for you, then you know you you might want to look into adapters. Fantastic uh for their USB-C cables and their USB-C to USB-A or vice versa adapters, they're fantastic. You can completely rely on Anchor to do your your uh your uh cord management or cord conversions into your motherboard if you needed to. And in that case, if you needed to, then you don't need this motherboard if you don't need that USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 port. Make I'm trying to make that clear. You don't need it if you don't need that port. However, it's a very, very nice motherboard for the for the price, for the quality. You can rely on it again, only if you're building on AM5. I'm being so hesitant because the requirements to have to build on AM5 in 2026 is uh is very minimal. Um there's very few things that could could be in your system or in a in your setup that require that. So you could save a lot of money, is what I'm trying to say. Like if you're doing gaming or you don't need the the level of stress of requirements that I require for content creation, you can really, really, really uh reduce the price in CPU and the motherboard, or you can get something that works much better better for gaming and for a PC in general, uh, such as a uh X3D card from CPU for uh CPU from AMD, uh the Ryzen 7 and 9, something X3D. If it has X3D, it's just it's going to be such a powerful card card, and you can really put the money into the GPU. You put the money into that if you want, but you could really reduce the price on that as well if you don't go with an X3D card. You and if you're not going with AM5, you can reduce the the price even more. It just it fully depends on what you're looking for and what you're trying to build and what you're trying to do. This the whole process is is tricky. So if you're frustrated, if you're irritated, trust me, I get you, and I've been there, and this is my first PC build, and I've been more irritated, more aggravated by this than I've than I've ever seen myself irritated or aggravated by within a hobby or obsession or or uh interest. So be careful, really understand what you're looking for from your PC because you can save so much money. Do not go over what you need to do. I understand if you're winding in on AM5 for the future-proof aspect of AM5 platform platform, but everything is so much more expensive that works with AM5. So it's not required. It's not a really I can't shr I can't stress that enough. You can do so much with a 2015-2016 card for gaming, right? If you're doing gaming or normal work on a computer, then don't don't overdo it just because you feel you have to, or that's what other people are doing. Go strictly based off what you're having to do. Please, I can't I can't I can't stress it enough. Sorry, I didn't realize that wasn't on me that whole time, but it's so important. And this is probably your money, your hard-earned money. Be very careful with it. Don't like I I'm the one making the PC build video, but don't go over anything that that that really exceeds your own requirements or your own wants for for what you're trying to make this PC do. Because ten years ago, PCs were already phenomenal phenomenal at their highest level. And those parts you can now get for a very good price in comparison to the new stuff, and um it just it depends on what you're trying to do. So so please, please, please take your time on choosing your parts, doing the research on what you need, so on. I know I've already said enough. I just I can't stress it enough. You know, this is a very expensive project. It's very, no matter who's doing it, no matter if you're buying it from with parts based on 10 years ago, it's going to be expensive. So do your research. I don't want you to spend more money than you need to, and I want you to also understand the requirements for yourself based on what you're trying to do or what you're trying to accomplish, because that's the most important thing, is what you want to do. Me, it's making these videos, and that requires quite a bit, unfortunately. But if you're trying, whatever you're trying to do, I want you to pursue that fully, and I want you to save as much money doing it. So I'll I'll I'll end it. Excuse me, I'll end it there. Um, for the motherboard, uh, plenty of USB ports, uh, also great temperatures. I'm getting about 22, 23 degrees sometimes. Uh the max I've seen is 25 degrees Celsius on this motherboard. That is fantastic considering of my CPU, my GPU, and the workload. That is the highest temperature I see it reach. And that's just slightly warmer than room temperature, so that's it's it's fantastic. I really can't recommend this motherboard more, especially if you're doing AM5 or DDR5. But as mentioned, don't go over and beyond more than you need to. Um, yes, and be extremely careful placing the board into the PC. Forgot to remove the rear fan. Yeah, so we went over that a little bit and the scratches that I encountered and the nail polish that I had to then use. Be very careful. You can do much more damage. Much, much, much, much, much, much more damage than I did to my my motherboard. And mine was slight. I really didn't think that anything might have happened. I thought it could have been fine, but that feeling of putting it in, you know, it's especially if you're doing it for the first time, you're gonna end up scratching something somewhere at some point. Mine was the motherboard and the nail polish was my solution. I haven't run into other problems to be able to provide it to you if those problems exist. But be very careful. Very careful. Your motherboard is precious, it is what runs, and you know, it's not the big power power hungry parts that that are technically the most expensive, but it's what's running your entire system. It's taking it all and putting it all together. So be very careful with your motherboard and please look at as much research and as much videos as you can. I'm gonna have some provided in this video, the ones that I use myself. There's some great channels out there and great YouTubers that fully focus on technology, and it is I can't stress enough. If you're not doing the research, please don't do this, and please find someone to build the PC for you. But if you're not doing the research, I'm still doing research a month later after starting the build itself. I'm doing a I'm doing research after six months of researching what parts I want for this build. So please, please, please be very careful and and inform yourself as much as possible. I'm going to leave it at that and we're gonna move on to step four. Following the motherboard, I've chosen to talk about the SSD and the heatsink, which let's have a look at right now. Um, yes, they are quite tiny. My my chosen SSD card was the SN 850X by WD Black, and I took a risk through Amazon, even though the reviews are great and there has been a lot of purchases of it. Um there was still a section that had problems with it. I'm guessing, based on how they set it up, you have to make sure that the drivers are properly installed, that it itself is properly installed, and that you uh you download the software from Western Digital when you set up your PC to also make sure that it's running the way you should, the way it should. I also got and decided to get from the from the motherboard, which is a great heatsink, you'd probably be just fine running that heatsink with it, but I chose to spend the extra $30-35 to get the HR 102 2280 Pro. Um, and it looks great, it works great, and it really does reduce the temperature the the temperature amounts while running. And for me, it was based on the fan. Having a fan actually circulates air and retrieves cold air, puts it through the vents and it like expels it. So that was that was my rationale for that. Uh the SSD is so far working fantastic. Um, I really would recommend getting a two terabyte if it's in your budget. Again, mine is a m.2 and it's an NVMe 4 4.0. So it's not the MVME 5.0, which scares me because of how hot those run out of the gate. You can get an M.2, NVMe 4.0 for any PC build. It's not just uh isolated for AM5 and DDR5. So, depending on your setup, if you have the opportunity to spend a little bit more on a two-terabyte SSD card, that's gonna do you a lot better. For me, that's one of the things I tried to cut on, but also have the ability to run things quickly. But I'm making sure that I'm on top of my my storage and making sure that I'm deleting things that I do not need all the time. That's part of the content creation gig, is on top of the information and storage that you're using and organizing it and getting it off of the PC as soon as possible into your own hands, so then you can edit it and uh deal with it elsewhere. So the stress of your PC is focused entirely as much as possible on recording and and creating. Yes, that is that go back. Um, that is what I chose for these was the SSD uh SN the WD SN 850X uh M.2 NVMe 4.0 PCIe uh um PCIe pet PCLE um uh SSD cart and the aftermarket heatsink that is not required but if you're if your motherboard really doesn't come with one you absolutely should get one if it if it does have one you might not need it at all especially if you're not doing uh content creation if you're doing just normal gaming PC setup you don't need this it's not required it's nice to have but I wanted to mention that uh yes remember to remove remove your thermal pad film uh that applies to your CPU CPU cooler as well which we haven't gotten to but um all films all films on the case all films on your GPU all films on your seep on your coolers or your CPU and SSD coolers make sure you you remove them because uh the amount of videos I've seen of people who haven't removed that film and applied the thermal paste with the film stone on and having their entire PC crash all the time that is exactly what would cause it if your film is still on obviously if your film's off and there's still problems and something else is going wrong but film seems to be a big issue so make sure to remove the film on those pads every single time triple check it that's all I have to say for that uh be extremely gentle yes mine was a little bit finicky to get the seep the SSD seated and placed on the the uh HR10 Pro so my my uh aftermarket aftermarket thermal uh heatsink and to get it seated on that properly you have to be very careful I'll have some videos attached for that process uh once it once it's fully connected and as long as you made sure it was centered and you have enough space at the end but mainly enough since enough room at the front for connection uh basically you want the heatsink in the center as much as possible but it's a little off centered you'd rather a little bit more room at the front and this is in millimeters at the front than you would at the back and you want to make sure it seats properly into your motherboard because you can't use the the usual latch especially for my my motherboard where it has a quick release latch for the SSD card and the heatsink you don't have the latch that's on the heatsink for the SSD card so you have to be very careful on how it wants you to seat the SSD card into the motherboard into that slot with your aftermarket heatsink. Be very careful because if it's not seated it's gonna either it might run fine but you're gonna hurt it over time. So you want to make sure you go through that process properly. Read manual for motherboard and watch installation videos. Well installation videos I've already mentioned but yes uh if you're really confused even after watching some videos make sure you read your motherboard manual see what it wants if it wants a different attachment piece attached to the SSD card and your aftermarket heatsink then it should come with that part and you would make sure that that part is installed properly and set properly with the SSD with the aftermarket heatsink before placing it in your motherboard worry about the wire management after but that is well that's your SSD and that's your heatsink so that's roughly all I have to say about that both of these for me are working fantastic so far and I couldn't be more happy with the purchases let's go on to step five following the SSD and well my aftermarket heatsink um you want to choose your RAM and yes this is the worst the worst process of the entire thing currently because of the RAM sort shortage due to the AI data center facilities that are opening and yes I feel this is temporary but this could you know temporary nowadays is about two years so expect RAM to come down in price maybe in two years time while everybody's buying up all of their stuff I have the well let's go back I I have chosen the Corsair Vengeance 6000 megahertz CL28 RAM 32 gigabytes which no matter what you're building get the 32 gigabytes if it's DDR4 or if it's DDR5 you don't need any more you don't want less so three it's a sweet spot your computer is gonna run too hot and try to be it's gonna have too much memory believe believe me when I say that it's gonna have too much memory running four sticks at 64 gigabytes even more where it's what 128 gigabytes if you have four sixty four thirty two gigabyte sticks it's not necessary you don't need it I'm doing a lot of content creation through this unless you're you know a g I say gazillionaire if you're doing a lot and you have something that's already running if you're Mr Beast or PewDiePie or these big content creators running big videos all the time and they're already huge they don't care about the money associated with it. That's fine. They're building a PC to run their system and uh they they're they're huge. So if you're not huge which is most people if you're like me and not huge you're most people then this is more plenty more than enough and the only reason I did it is because well luckily I go back to it um my friend Eric mentioned in part two or part one uh sold it to me for a for what he paid for it which was about $200 compared to the $700 to thousand dollars that this is currently running at that was a steal that was better than any price I could get at DDR4 and um that's the that's really the big reason why I was able to do this in the first place but it's the big reason why um you know why I would choose to do AM5 also I'd spend probably twice or more in RAM in RAM alone doing DDR4 than getting my friends RAM DDR5 and building an AM5 platform. RAM is the most expensive overinflated product that you are uh PC part that you can buy at the moment so you know depending on your budget depending on what's accessible to you if you can get it for a good price then I would build AM5 if you can't get it for a good price I would 100% build on AM4 and uh you can get better quality gaming than I can get at the moment because then you could get DDR4 get a much cheaper motherboard much cheaper CPU and uh probably a much cheaper case a much cheaper power supply a much um and then really ramp up the GPU right that's when you'd want your GPU to be super beefy on the 30 or 40 series have 12 gigabytes of RAM and then whatever you can afford on that. That's probably your best bet for uh AM4 and the previous generation it's all what you're looking for. We've already gone over that uh check your uh motherboard manual um that's that's a big big thing make sure that you put it in the right slots there's mine had four slots so the second and fourth slots is what I put this in first and third is for your third and fourth stick. Think of the the Star Wars pre uh originals and then prequels you know the originals were two and four and then your prequels were one and three it went back in time but uh you read your motherboard make sure that's the case it's very different if you only have two slots for it anyway. Also for your BIOS configuration um make sure that you set your expo profile or XMP profile depending if you have like me an AMD chip if you have an AMD chip then it's going to be an expo profile if it's an Intel chip then you're gonna have an XMP profile. If it's an MSI motherboard unlike mine which is ACES if you have an S MSM motherboard your BIOS is already more difficult and there's more it's more difficult to navigate so be very careful but either way no matter what your motherboard is and depending on your CPU make sure that your expo or XMP profile is enabled and that allows you to run your RAM from well for me where it was 6000 megahertz um it was attempting at default to run it at 4800 megahertz you want to make sure it's on a profile that's running it at 6000 or your your um certified megahertz quantity if that's 5200 you don't want it running at foreign 4800 I know that doesn't seem a lot but it doesn't allow your to your memory to be happy so you want your memory to be happy make sure you enable the right profile under your BIOS after you enable your BIOS in your windows and so on. That's really it for RAM following that is our CPU and CPU cooler and now lastly while I was configuring my motherboard before I seeded it yes and I forgot to mention that I put my CPU cooler my SSD my SSD cooler and my DDR5 RAM all onto the motherboard before I seed it into the PC which is probably what I would do it again but I would make sure that rear fan is out. So following that I I well let's talk about my CPU and the CPU cooler I have the AMD Ryzen 9 9900x 12 core 24 thread CPU that's uh in the AM5 category and then I have the peerless assassin 120 120 SE white air GB CPU cooler um it it all works fantastic um however you know obviously you want to look up how to seat a CPU properly an AM5 CPU doesn't have pins on the CPU itself uh while I was placing it I did drop it for a second and touched with gloves on but the gloves were previously used so so they weren't fresh out of a bag per se and I by mistake touched the back of the CPU and I started to freak out um it's not a problem I everything's fine it's it's not a problem now but I I did freak out at in the moment I had to reach out to people who who have built a PC to see if they felt that was a problem. Obviously there's nothing you could do it was just see if they felt that was a really big issue but they said if it's not AM4 where the pins are on the back should be fine. If it is AM4 and you drop in you by mistake touched the pins you have to make sure and look at the back and make sure the pins that make sure all the pins are good and none are damaged. If it is damaged I haven't gone through this process obviously mine's AM5 but if yours is AM4 and yours has the pins and they are damaged you're going to have a hell of a time but uh it's fixable. There are videos on that and I'm not saying that's guaranteed but there are ways you can go about it to try and fix that CPU. So if you have pins on an AM4 CPU be very very careful because those pins are going into your motherboard in and they're seated onto not other pins but it's like AM4 and AM5 are reverse. So uh you worry less about the motherboard mine my motherboard uh uh I it might have pins actually and I'm not sure if AM5 does or does not have pins you don't have to worry about that you're not gonna by mistake touch the inner socket for your CPU on your motherboard but you worry less if it's AM5 because there's no pins to begin with. But be very careful setting it no yes AM5 has pins on the bottom so be very very careful setting your PC your uh your CPU onto the pins of your AM5 motherboard and um follow instructions the the biggest safety thing I've seen is that make sure that the corner um there's a corner on your motherboard CPU socket that's marked and your uh uh marker on the that same corner on your CPU make sure those line up and uh I would line in your CPU with that corner first and slowly gent gently place the CPU into the socket do a slight wiggle test to make sure it's seated properly or if it's not seated then it will then seat itself you will have a uh CPU socket cover that is on there uh out of uh stock is it right it's there I'm pretty sure you can add it back afterward but that's a different conversation it's gonna have a cover on it you want to then apply the pressure and it's a lot of pressure on the the the socket and that lever that that goes down and latches itself you want to apply that pressure after making sure that your CPU is seated properly and then apply that pressure make sure the lever is then seated under its lever latch so it's gonna feel uncomfortable trust me it's going to but that cover on the socket will then pop off after it's fully seated you can take that off but make sure you save it because when you take your CPU out and then sell your used motherboard you want to make sure that soccer socket is included and reinstalled which I'm pretty sure you can do so the next person has the same experience and I'm pretty sure it's important to the your CPU application process. So don't lose the socket but also your socket's going to stay on while you apply your CPU don't be worried about it it's gonna be a lot of pressure make sure it's seated properly and then go for it is basically what I am saying. Do not remove socket cover that is what we just went over that uh push down firmly will will require force push lever underlatch that's just a step by step process for also what we just went over use a uh what use a fat p fat psized amount use a fat p sized amount of thermal paste uh everyone will end up saying that you'll use a psized thermal paste amount when you put it onto your CPU after this process is completed um a lot of people say you can just take your CPU cooler and install it as such and the thermal paste will spread itself and then when you heat it up it will spread itself more that is true but I wanted to be extra careful so I took the extra piece of plastic around my finger and spread the thermal paste myself carefully around the entirety of the surface of the CPU so that it wouldn't have to do that process. It would just fill in any gaps that I missed which was I couldn't see any but if you didn't if you can't see any that's perfect. And any microscopic uh uh amounts that are not covered by the thermal paste the heat from turning on the CPU will cover it itself so you then really don't have to worry about anything but you want to make sure there's a little bit you'd rather a little bit extra thermal paste than not enough thermal paste. It's essential your CPU is the hottest component of your entire PC you want to make sure that it has the right amount of thermal paste if not more you do not want less and you do not want it to not spread this across the CPU evenly and and and for it to be fully covered. So it's very important you know of all the careful processes of this entire motherboard assembly you want to make sure that your CPU is uh seated properly in its socket and you go about that process properly and then you want to make sure your thermal paste is applied and then applied as efficiently as you can to make sure that thermal paste is covering the thing entirely. Following that if you you know if you don't want to use the plastic on your finger you can use the spatula a lot of people do I'm not sure exactly what kind of spatula you should use but it probably should be a plastic one not a brush per se and uh and slowly spread it across the entire CPU. Very very very important if you have an Intel CPU that's one of the larger ones that's more rectangle rectangular than it is square there's larger surface coverage to cover with thermal paste. Follow your CPU cooler instructions yes depending on your AM5 or AM4 platform depending on your your motherboard your CPU cooler should come with the the attachment pieces that you would need for any of it however you want to make sure you use what the right pieces for that process and uh the best way to get that is through your CPU manual or you can search up specific uh reviews or or app um or build videos for your specific CPU cooler and your CPU doesn't matter but your CPU cooler those videos should exist if they don't because you chose a very you know niche CPU cooler or CPU liquid cooler I did not use liquid but if you do um that's probably even easier to find YouTube's gonna be your best friend however uh if you can't find any or not that many videos or or people reviewing that specific model then your manual will then be your best backup and really that's it that's uh that's that's your AMD Ryzen 9 9900x 12 core you don't need 12 cores that's because you're doing I'm doing content creation that was my most expensive component was getting a good CPU that can do all the processing or at least do it and have no problems ever for the for uh for the foreseeable future so you know and then I got the peerless assassin 120 se white air gb because that was rated to work well with the 9900x and uh everyone would be happy there are some great other CPU coolers exist cougar is a great brand they have fans that just uh seat into place based on screws and it's it's a great idea you won't regret um a cougar fan or really a lot of other Aftermarket or um off-brand coolers for your PC case, including the CPU cooler. So do your research. Um, do what you feel is best for you. But this is a fantastic cooler. You won't have any problems, you shouldn't have any problems. One of my fans are even offset, and the the temperatures I'm getting on my CPU are fantastic between 40 and 50 degrees, even under load, which I haven't even seen that go over 50 yet. So that's that those are my best recommendations for these fantastic prog uh products. I have no I have uh I have no quarrels with these two. Let's move on to the next part. Well, we're back, and yes, this this is on a different day, but we have four steps left, so we're gonna get over them and uh get over them, get through them, and we have step seven, which is up next, which is plugging in wires. For some reason, I wrote well everything except the GPU. Oh, okay. I understand what I was saying. Um, for the motherboard, when you put the motherboard in with the CPU, the RAM, and DDR5 with your coolers, when you put that in, you put your rear fan back on if you have one. Um that when you're plugging in the wires, of course, the one cord that you're not going to plug in is your GPU. Uh start with larger wires, power supply. Yes, so be well, your larger wires, the the larger the wire that you can tackle, if it's your power supply into your motherboard, and then your CPU powers, and then your um your HGMI, your USB, all of them, and then you tackle your fans because those wires are the thinnest. So go from largest wire to thinnest wire, you're just you're gonna have an easier time doing wire management, but also I don't know how to explain it, but you know, placing the wires and you'll you'll fight more with trying to deal with the larger wires, like the power supply for the motherboard. Uh you'll have a harder time dealing with those if you do all of the small wires first, because then there's a bunch of stuff in the way for the thicker, larger wires is what I'm getting at. Um apply firm easy firm even pressure after seeding a wire. Listen for a good click. Yes, that is pretty dead on. Uh, really, there's not much to say other than visually even pressure and listen for a good click. That's really about it. There's not much more to that one. Um Daisy chaining and CPU fans. We um we already went over that a little bit with the CPU fans having to go through well there my case had a dedicated CPU power or uh CPU cable port, and because my wires weren't long enough I couldn't use that port, so I used a well the rear I mentioned this already. The rear fan wire port, it's not really a port, it's much larger than it would need to be, so I didn't have any problems. However, there is a special port for it, so I didn't I didn't end up doing that. Anyway, step eight, uh, go back, is our GPU, which is the Asus Dual 506E 8 gig 8 gigabyte overclocked GPU cart. Oh my god. Fantastic cart. The temperatures are great. It it works very well with my Asus Prime Power Supply. It works great with my motherboard, which is the ACES ROG Strikes B850A. Again, all the links to each of the products that I used for my build. If you want to replicate my build, go for it. But for those that are probably making something that's more tuned for them, again, the links to the individual parts and all of them are down below. Plus, for this specific video, PC part uh build part three, um, the links to the the videos that I watched or I found extremely helpful, I'm probably not gonna be able to get all of them. They're down there. Go check it out. Um again, if you're very interested in build building a PC or or you just enjoy it in general, or I don't know. Um whatever the case, if you want the links, they're there. So uh ASUS dual 5060, 8GB overclocked. Yes, be gentle and read your motherboard manual and watch videos. Uh to seed it really isn't complicated, but you do want to watch someone uh go back to me. You do want to watch someone who knows what they're doing, place a GPU in. There is a for me it was a right to left uh configuration, so you want to seed it in on the right side almost first, and then p seed it on the left side. And I know there's a very specific for the newer generation GPUs and motherboards on having a quick release GPU that you want to tilt it up and to the right almost, but again, this depends on your GPU, it depends on your motherboard. So read your manual manuals and do your research on YouTube. Maybe some of my videos will help you on that. If not, again, do your research and really understand what's going on before you build it and be and a hundred percent before you take it apart, because there it's just there's the process and you and it's not complicated. You don't have to stress or worry about how complicated it is to put together a PC. It is the best period of time to put together technology. It's it's so much more simple than it was 20, even 10 years ago. So if you're using and you have newer parts, if you're building a modern, modern PC, again in five years this will no longer be modern. If you're building one as of the around the time that this comes out, just it it'll be the same whether it was ten years ago or five years in the future to read the manuals and really do your research so you know what you're doing. Okay, uh right side first, ASUS QR latch system is known for issues. Yes, when you're taking apart, be very careful as much as possible because this quick release system is known to damage your GPU pins, which ASUS and other companies claim doesn't affect the the capabilities of the GPU itself. However, it's still something to note, so you want to check your GPU pins and make sure they're all okay. If they're not, then you want to do a little bit of research, and you know, you maybe you want to put it back in, take it back out, and make sure it all works before you sell a GPU, and so that you can also explain to the person buying the GPU why that pin is damaged and that it doesn't affect the performance of the GPU itself. Uh plug-in, yes, make sure then after you seat your GPU that your power supply is plugged into the GPU, and this is one of the easier connections, so don't worry about this at all. Be very careful about your motherboard power supply connection, be very careful about your CPU power power supply connections, be very careful about not bending any pins, so just be very gentle with any connection point you make. Not that you should worry, just the more careful you can be, the more gentle you can be, the less and less likely it is to damage anything at all. Everything is very fragile with electronics. It's not hard, it's very much a plug-in-play. If you want to plug in your fans, if they're already daisy chained, if there is three fans, you have two plugins to make. It's just making sure you don't take the thing and jab it onto the motherboard. You want to take it and set it properly. Make sure all of the pins enter the holes on your power or ARGB or RGB ports. Make sure the pins are going in those holes first before you then apply pressure. Make sure you listen for a well, some things don't have clip clicks, usually the power power power cords for the fans and the RGB cord. Um the RGB uh power connections for RGB. Uh, you know, those aren't gonna make a click. So you just want to make sure that the pins are seated in their holes, otherwise, you're gonna bend the pins, make sure they're in there, and then you know, firmly make sure that connection is made. Um, you shouldn't see the the connection port s uh lopsided, or or you shouldn't see any pins that are bent, and you know, it's common sense stuff. So don't worry about it, please. It's not complicated. You just you have to be careful, and the more careful you are, the less you should worry. Um step nine, uh we're gonna talk. Well, I'll leave GPO up there, is uh BIOS, Windows, and FDs. What did I mean? Oh, your uh firmware drivers. So your motherboard, it should be easy. Search up your motherboard's company website, search up your motherboard, and um you should be able to find the drivers in there. But first, BIOS. So, as we mentioned with one of the flash drives, you want to take that on a separate device, so a laptop, preferably, that has 2.0, preferably 3.0 USB connectivity. You want to well put in your flash drive, and then you will go to that same website, that same process, go to the the website of your motherboard, search up your motherboard, and you should be able to find support or drivers and or or more options. And well, you want to download the BIOS option. You want the BIOS, the newest firmware you can possibly get for your motherboard, and that is your first primary driver, and that's the only thing you want on that flash drive when you're installing it into your motherboard, which while you would download it properly, formatting the drive and the stuff in the drive properly. Uh, some a lot, at least mine. Mine for the drive in the files, you go to one of them, and it should be the one that says application. You open that and you should be able to rename the file itself, and that's very important as well. So reformat the drive to something 32, I believe, is the right format, the right formation. Again, double check that with some of the videos down below, or do your research yourself, and you want to make sure that you rename the drive itself, and then you should be able to eject that drive from your laptop safely, put it into the BIOS designated port in your motherboard, and there's a little bit of a process, I forget how that works, but mainly you boot up your PC in a certain way, and you should be able to get your get to your BIOS. So, again, all videos down below 100% that include that tutorial-ish. Just it depends if you're on um AMD or Intel, it depends if you have MSI or ASUS. Defend depends well mainly on those factors. It depends if you're downloading Windows 10 versus Windows 11 a little bit too, but it you know that's not as big of a concern. Uh so yeah, uh, download Windows from the website. There are websites that you can download this from. I'm not gonna mention mine, it's not gonna be in the description, but just go on YouTube or go on on Chrome or Edge or whatever your search engine is and search for um search, you know, ways to get Windows for cheaper. There are ways, trust me, it's a big, big savings. You know, it exists and a lot of people do it. Am I gonna admit that I did it myself? Technically, no, I'm not going to uh I'm not going to admit that I did. However, the chance that I did is very high. So take that as you will. Um, you can go buy Windows, of course, from Best Buy or any electronics dealership for the most part, unless as long as it's a big enough store, they'll have Windows option purchases for the drive with the files on it, which is the exact same method that you would go through from an online uh store. So do your research, trust me, you could save a lot of money. But if you want to do it the legit way, then you can you can go to one of your your local stores and they should have it. Uh Wi-Fi driver. Oh wait, nope, sorry, function. Yes, if you want to enter BIOS, well, follow your motherboard your motherbook manual. It also depends on your keyboard. For me, everyone said spam f2, spam f1, spam delete, like individually in different attempts to get into your BIOS. For me, that meant hold pressing function, holding shift, and then spamming F2. That's what worked for me and my motherboard and my setup, which my my uh keyboard is a GK61. So if you're wondering, that is what I'm using. It's a fantastic keyboard. However, because it's a 60% keyboard, so it's 40% smaller than most full-size keyboards, um, it has a tricky way to get into BIOS because it doesn't have all the keys, if that makes sense. So for me, it was function shift f2, f to f to f to f2 with an ACES motherboard and ACES programming going into the BIOS. If that makes sense. Again, it's all very much dependent on your parts, on what brand owns your parts for those specific parts, right? RAM doesn't matter getting to BIOS, it's your motherboard and maybe your GPU, but mainly your motherboard, right? Your CPU comes in play within uh when you're programming your your BIOS under your motherboard type. It depends whether you have Intel or AMD. Um, there's a little bit of configuration thing for almost all RAM, so note that. You know what I mean? That's what I'm getting at when I say that your parts matter, and uh that it's very different for each person on their own build, unless the parts are identical, and I could not find one person that used the exact configuration that I used. I could use people that use a lot of my parts, but then you have to cross-reference that with other parts, depending on it. Your GPU, your CPU, and your motherboard are very, very important factors when you're talking about this all. So that's it for step nine. Step 10, which is our last step, is our Wi-Fi drivers. So your LAN, I don't know what L A N is, but LAN, that's it's your Ethernet. So so you want to make sure that that's installed properly, especially if you want to get through the Windows section that says you must be connected to internet. There's a way to go in, there's a way to pull up um the coding section on a PC so you can type in your own code, and that's where you want you want to be able to pull that up and submit the last thing. I forget what it's called. Uh you want to make sure that you can bypass the the Windows Wi-Fi, especially if your motherboard supports its own Wi-Fi, which mine did. So install your drivers, yes, on the same or a different flash drive after erasing it from your previous usages for BIOS and Windows. And what Windows is very simple. Uh you once you have BIOS set up, you want to go into BIOS, select the drive that you then have put on Windows by itself, only Windows, and put it into the motherboard. You should be able to find a section on your BIOS that has that flash drive, and click on it and run the flash drive, and it'll restart your PC and so on, and then you'll have Windows. So, what I'm talking about now with Wi-Fi and Ethernet and Bluetooth is after the fact, once you can load on and Windows screen pops up with your login, and then you're gonna go through the setup process, which then brings you eventually to a Wi-Fi driver setup, and it's gonna ask you to install Windows drivers for Windows Wi-Fi, and you do not want that. I don't really understand why, how other than the point that you're and if your motherboard supports its own Wi-Fi and says it comes with Wi-Fi that you want to use that Wi-Fi and not Windows Wi-Fi. If that makes sense, I'm sorry, I know I'm getting really passionate at but uh or enthusiastic. It's a lot of information, and I I want to make sure I cover all my bases. So, step 10, install your drivers onto that flash drive, install it into your motherboard, and then uh install through yeah, the motherboard website, check device system for error fix messages. That's once you get on. So after you go to your motherboard's website, install the drivers for Ethernet, which is also known as L A N or LAN, and your Wi-Fi drivers, and your Bluetooth drivers, install it all onto your flash drive or individually if you want to be a little bit more courteous with this process. Saw into your motherboard and make sure that those drivers get downloaded through that specific process of finding your motherboard coding section. And I should have this video down below if I don't do some research on how to get to this menu and how to bypass Wi-Fi Windows drivers. Um and you should it should bring you to system and then you can download those drivers off that flash drive. After that, yes, check your device system once you log in and bypass Wi-Fi. Check your device system for error any error or fix messages, which I'm pretty sure sure it's under system info or device system information, and then you can check everything. If there's a lot of error messages, then you should go to your motherboard's website again to the drivers and then start downloading some other important ones that you feel might be important or things that you want. Usually there are descriptions on the website. Download those, and now you don't need to do it on the flash drive because your compute computer is on and working. Download onto your computer and then go check that device systems or or or system. System settings and see if those error messages are still there. Once they're all gone, you're all good for the system setup. After that, download SSD dashboard. Yes. We might have mentioned that already. Go to your SSD's website, make sure you have that program downloaded for their SSD cards, and that should allow you to check for any updates on the card which you want to update. And you also want to make sure that you know there are sometimes it will diagnose your SSD as well and let you know if you have any issues at all. There's some other fancy things you can do and you know monitor your read and write speed, uh so on, so on. It's just it's a good thing to have, it's a good driver or website and app to have accessible. Uh HW, yes. There are other drop drivers that are optional, but I would highly suggest again because of my own process, which is uh HW Monitor or HW Info. Myas motherboard had it. I'm not sure if MSI ones do. I know it's a very popular software and it monitors your whole system and the performance from each part uh across the board. And it's been the best one I've used. I've used three or four now. HW monitor or HW Info is a fantastic choice. Uh GPU tweet three, yes. Well, at the same time, after I'm recording this and probably after I wrote this, uh it's not as necessary as you think. It is great for some other monitoring things of your own GPU, but after the process of setting setting up BIOS and your own GPU uh motherboard settings, it's not fully needed. You should really just not touch it for the most part. Um Asus Driver Hub, that's a good one. Go get it, it should be on your motherboard drivers. If it's not, well, check to make sure your motherboard or GPU supports it, but it's a great one to have the NVIDIA app and the NVIDIA broadcast app. If you're doing so every way you should get NVIDIA app, the NVIDIA's app, and that will help you allow you to change some settings per app on an app per app basis on on GPU settings, whether it's resolution settings or all the other fancy AI things that it has, the NVIDIA app is where you do it through. Nvidia broadcast is mainly for those that are wanting to have content creation or are using OBS, you know, similar to myself, then you want NVIDIA broadcasts. If you're doing anything using cameras or media or capturing footage through your PC, and that's a very big important thing to you, then you want to make sure you have NVIDIA broadcast. And that's all I have for the most part. Um there's not much to else to say. That was the GPU, that was all the parts. That's it. I I just I don't have anything else. Um, you know, for your SSD, I think I mentioned um the SSD's tricky and it's hit or miss, and just do your research again. That's my biggest advice. Also, for the programming and uh optimization for your parts once your PC is running and Windows is on and everything, when you're trying to optimize BIOS, or you're trying to optimize OBS, or you're trying to optimize your own Windows settings and device settings within Windows, or through the NVIDIA app, or through NVIDIA broadcast, or or so on, so on, so on. GPU Tweak3, and there's a couple others. You want I had the best success using Chat GPT, to be honest. That is what I used to filter the parts to chat and then uh then ask my questions following that on what uh settings I should pick. It being able to cross-reference across the entire internet, internet is exactly what I needed, and exactly what I didn't do for three weeks. It was three weeks of not using it. So so I was going through Google, I was going through YouTube, I was going through everybody I could possibly find these videos on, and everyone has a different opinion, fair enough. Not that their opinion is wrong, but because of their parts that they use, you could be talking about the same part, but because you have other parts that are different, your process is very different. Again, not that it's wrong, it's just the chances of you finding a video that talks about everything you need to talk about and discuss and the information you need to have building the PC is even finding a video with all the same parts is very there's a very low chance of that happening. But not only that, the chance of them then having all the information that you need to build your PC is even slimmer. So use ChatGPT was my best solution for that. I did three weekends optimizing this thing, trying to, and still having problems. I spent four hours on one day with ChatGPT and fixed everything. Now again, a lot of it was already done well and already set properly, but for the things I could not figure out and I kept going back and forth on, it told me no, no, don't worry about those things, but you should change these things. Things I didn't even think about, and I have no issues now. It's a very important thing I want to say to you. For the whole process of building a PC, no matter really what you're doing at this point, use AI to your advantage. Everyone, maybe not everyone, but a lot of people are gonna tell you that it's you know, it's gonna mislead you or it's not that great and it's not all that cracked out that it's said to be. But use it, trust me, try it. Just try it and try it asking it questions based on something it that really intrigues you and questions you've wanted to ask for a very long time. You know, test it that way is my best example. But especially for something like this and something that's as complicated and in-depth as building a PC and electronics in general, then absolutely please, please try it. And I'd highly recommend using ChatGPT. I'm not dissing other AI platforms, but it's there's a different experience between all of them. So you are your own person, and this is just based off my own personal experience building this. Uh, when this is coming out, I've had uh episode nine come out on Patreon, which was Aimless Marvel 1. If you if you haven't checked it out, well, go go follow my Patreon. It's seven days free just to try it, and you get to watch everything if you'd want, and then cancel the subscription if you'd want. But that it's there for you technically for free if you do the trial and remember to cancel your your plan. If you don't cancel your plan, I highly and greatly appreciate the support. It's uh it's five dollars a month technically, so even if you forget to cancel it and you meant to cancel it, you're gonna only end up spending five dollars US. So so it's up to you. As much as I want to say that this that I want to do this for free, uh, I don't want to do this for free. I do want to have enough to cover, you know, my own subscriptions that I pay for making these videos, and there's a good few, by a good few, I think there's five or six, and they they run a pretty penny. So if you want to help me, if you like the content, if you enjoyed the video, please. That is the best way you can go about it. Even just to do the seven-day trial and and cancel it afterwards, that's fine by me. Just go check it out. So aimless Marvel 1 came out, episode or season one, episode one of Daredevil. So go check that out. It was a good episode. This will be uh Aimless 10, and uh next will be Aimless 11. Yeah, so Aimless 11 will come out on the 23rd. Again, that'll be a Patreon exclusive episode. So if you're wondering where 9 and 10 or 9 and 11 are, that's where they are. They're on Patreon. Uh on the 30th, we'll have episode 12, 13, and 14 come out. 11. This is 10. 16th is 11, 23rd is 12, yes, 13th, 14th, and 15th will be coming out on the 30th. On the 30th, yeah. So one will be for the main the main channels, so Spotify and YouTube, and uh 14, 15 will be Patreon exclusive only, so you won't see those on here. And then we're on to April, which will have a good amount of content, but we won't talk about that yet. So yeah, that that's it. That's oh man, it feels good to to get through this episode. I've been holding in all of this information, and it might not be every piece of information you can possibly get, but after all my research, those feel like I feel like all of the biggest, most important points and notes have been made. I'm satisfied with that. I really wish you luck with your PC build. Please don't try to get as frustrated or irritated or angry as I did. And good luck. Have fun with it if you can. It's it's a experience that you'll never forget, but you'll also never forget, uh, never regret going through. And it's quite a special it's it's a special experience. Um that's it. Um thank you for watching. I appreciate all of you so so so much. And uh go check out my Patreon if you're willing. Again, seven days free and then you cancel. If you don't cancel, I appreciate you so so much, even though I already appreciate you appreciate you in the first place. This is Aimless Tech 3 PC Build Part 3 and the final part of this segment, and we will be moving on to 9, 10, 11, which will be very different than the technology sections. So uh I appreciate you all. Um stay happy, stay healthy, and aim dream, have hope, and justify love and passion always. Love you all, God bless, and have a great month. It's starting to get warmer, unless you're already in a warm place, but it's getting warmer, so we can choose to be happy all of a sudden. Alright, thanks everyone, and uh yeah, aimless out. I'll see you see you very soon.