The Deep End Pool Podcast

Ep167 πŸŠβ€β™‚οΈ Spring Pool Prep: Stop CYA Issues & Stains Before They Start! πŸŠβ€β™€οΈ

β€’ The Deep End β€’ Season 4 β€’ Episode 167

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0:00 | 42:25

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Spring is almost here, and your pool water is warming up! Are you ready, or will you be fighting algae, stains, and high CYA all season? In this episode, Frank Disher goes solo to dive deep into why managing CYA (stabilizer) and metal levels NOW can save you time, money, and frustration when the water temp rises. Learn pro tips on preventing algae outbreaks, controlling metal staining, and balancing your water before it’s too late. Plus, hear about top industry solutions like CU Lator, BluRay XL, and Green Story Global to keep your pool crystal clear. Don't miss this essential pre-season pool care episode!

πŸ“Œ Topics Covered:

  • Why CYA levels get out of control (and how to fix it)
  • The danger of metal staining when water warms up
  • Products that remove CYA without draining
  • How to properly remove metals before they stain your pool
  • The biggest myths about pool water chemistry
  • Why pool pros should consider Carecraft membership

πŸ“’ Subscribe & Share! Got questions? Email us at deependfrank@gmail.com and check out The Deep End Pool Podcast on YouTube, Facebook, TikTok, and Instagram!

πŸ”— Links & Discounts:
πŸ’™ BluRay XL Mineral Purifier - Reduce chlorine & maintain crystal-clear water: BluRayXL.com
πŸ’¨ Cyclone Filter Tools - The easiest way to clean your filters: CycloneFilterTools.com (Use code DEEPEND for 10% off!)
πŸ› οΈ Culator Metal Remover - Eliminate pool stains & metals: Culator.com (Use code DeepEnd44 for a special discount!)

For Poolwerx franchise opportunities, contact Billie Pfeiffer at                          Mobile: +1 (469) 502-0004 billie.pfeiffer@poolwerx.com

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Get 10% off on Camereye purchases from camereye.ai with coupon code DEEPEND24 - the ultimate pool safety and monitoring solution. 


The Deep End Pool Podcast focuses on residential pool maintenance and may not cover commercial pool requirements. Please consult the CDC and local authorities and code requirements for commercial pool maintenance. Email us questions and show suggestions at deependfrank@gmail.com. visit our home page thedeependpoolpodcast.com 

Please give us a 5 star rating and a review, and contact us at deependfrank@gmail.com for questions and show ideas. Thank you

Poolwerx, BlueRay XL, Cyclone Filter Tools, Allsafe Pool Fence and Covers, Fluidra, and IPSSA

Please give us a 5 star rating and a review, and contact us at deependfrank@gmail.com for questions and show ideas. Thank you 

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Welcome to the deep end pool podcast for pool owners and the swimming pool service professional. All of our sponsors are brands that we know, trust and use in our own business. We are brought to you by pool works for healthy pool people. That's pool works.com pool W, E, R x.com, if there isn't a pool works near you, become the pool works near you. Special thanks to blu ray XL, the best pool mineral purification. System in the industry, Blu ray all day. Fluidra and their many brands, including candy pool equipment and Polaris the most advanced automatic pool cleaners in the industry, Cyclone filter tools, save time, save water and save your back all save pool, fence nets and pool covers over 25 years of providing the best equipment to secure pool areas, saving the lives of children and pet clear comfort a patented hydroxyl based water treatment system, the future of water treatment and our friends in IPSA, independent Pool and Spa Service Association, improving the industry through community education and support. The Deep End pool podcast focuses on residential pool maintenance and may not cover commercial pool commercial pool requirements, please consult the CDC and your local authorities and code requirements for commercial pool maintenance. Now let's solve some pool problems with your host, Frank and Jackie Disher, Hey, everybody, just me again. Jackie was unable to be with me. Water is green. How much acid? How much Cory got some, I think some good topics going today. But what does it mean to the diving everybody. Welcome to the deep end. This is Frank, and I am solo today, and I know that makes some of you sad. Some of you like the banter between me and Jackie, and some of you just like Jackie and a lot better than you like me, but Jackie is not here, so you just go out to deal with it. Y'all just gonna have to deal with it. We just got back from Hawaii. Had a really good time. Hawaii's beautiful. I don't know if we'll be going back anytime soon. There's just too many other places we want to go to, but we were there for the care craft convention. And if you're in the pool industry, y'all you need to look into getting into care craft. By the way, care craft, it's a buying group, and the basically, they become a middleman between you and the manufacturers, and you're basically buying direct from the manufacturers. And care craft is the middle man, and they help expedite the process and keep the billing and everything clean, because some of these manufacturers don't want to deal with selling the individuals. And I understand I mean, that that would take a whole nother department if you've got 20,000 clients across the nation that you're having to deal with building so they just want to deal with, you know, wholesalers and some of the buying groups. There's other buying groups. I think there's one called Aqua group, or something like that. But care craft, I love. If you're in the industry and you do any reasonable amount of volume you need to look in the care craft and see if that's going to be worth it to you. It's definitely worth it to me. Through poll works, we get a care craft membership. It's a kind of an associate membership, but some of us in poll works, there's me, Randy Weatherford out in South Carolina, Steve and Amy down Sarasota, the guys up in Minnesota, and I believe there's a couple other pool works members that are full members of carrot craft. And we go to the conventions. You got to be a full member to go to the convention. And they don't call it a convention, they call it a meeting. And basically, you get to meet all the manufacturers. They all have will have a table set up in these big rooms. The great thing about care craft is you have to talk to each vendor that came to the meeting. You got to spend five minutes with each member, and there's well over 100 you know, you spend for over three days. You'll spend four or five hours meeting members each day, but you get to meet them on you end up finding products that you didn't realize that you that you could use it would help you. And I think it's a great thing for the vendors, because every person that is a member, they'll meet and get to discuss whether they can help them or not. So it makes it worth it to them to become a vendor through care craft. And if you're a member of care craft, it's definitely worth it to you, because there are programs for the members. That's a very beneficial for the member. But anyway, so we got back from there, bad news while we were gone day and a half before we headed back, our little Lola bug came up missing. She's never gotten out of our yard before. She's never even tried to get out of her yard before, but somehow she got out of the yard and she got out on the road, she got hit and and we lost her Lola bug. And it's so sad, y'all, it is so sad losing a dog. I know there's worse things in life. I'm not saying this is the ultimate and bad things, but you know, just the unconditional love from a dog and you get a. Accustomed to that. And then when you lose that dog, every time you walk in the house, you know, you just think about your beloved pup. So it's, it's been a very, very sad week for us because the loss of Lola bug and and we will be looking to bring get another dog, or another two dogs. Lola was 12 years old. She's a marquee. She's breaking down a little bit. So we only had a few years left with Lola, but we definitely did not want to lose her. And so we're looking at getting another either a Maltese or a maltipoo or another morkey, possibly even a mini golden doodle. You know, we're exploring our options right now, but we just miss our Lola so much. You know, we got to fill that hole because we love that dog so much. Y'all, she was so cute and she was so sweet to us. She is hateful to everybody else, but she was very sweet to us, and we miss her so much. But sorry, I didn't mean to start on such a downer note, but I just want to share that with y'all, water is warming up, which means you got a swimming pool as like here in North Texas. Our temperatures, I think we're we're probably up in the mid 50s right now, and quickly getting warmer. Our daytime temps are in the 70s. So we're not going to get super warm right now, but we're moving upwards, and we'll be hitting 60 degrees here pretty soon. And above 65 degrees, you need to be ready. You need to have your pool ready. Have your water ready. Hopefully you've managed your water all winter and you're not way out of whack with seaways and metals and calcium levels and phosphates and everything else. Hopefully you've been managing your pool Well, keeping your filter clean, and you haven't let things get too, too far out of whack, but if you have now's the time that you need to get ready. I'm already starting to see some issues on some pools. It's mainly people that just shut them down and they don't do anything with them. Then we look at their pool, once the water gets cold, they stop swimming. They stop caring. The hard freezes we had this winter, and we had a few, has made people a little more attentive to their pool over the winter, but so some people may not be as bad as they usually are, but all right, you need to get your pool ready. You need to get your filter cleaned and inspected. If you have cartridges or de grids, you need to get those broken down, cleaned, get everything ready to go for the warmer water. You need to test your water, find out where you're at, take it in somewhere that can test everything you know. And some of the things that we want to make sure we go into the season in a good position is we need to know what our cya level is. We need to know what our metal levels are. We need to know what our calcium levels are, because we need to get those in a range to where we can manage our pool better as the water warms up, and some of you and I know that there's service companies out there. You drain part of your pool every year, and I get it, I get it. That's a way to manage it, but I think you can manage it better without draining all the time. I know there's one service company they tell every client, you plan on draining your half your pool every year because of cya levels, cya, cyanuric acid, that stabilizer. They tell people, you know you're gonna have drain your pool, half your pool every year because of cya y'all you can manage cya. That's ridiculous, in my opinion. I think that's wasteful. I think it's mismanagement. I'm not going to call the company out by name, but there's a few of them out there that do it. But you don't have to drain half your pool every year. Does it hurt to drain half your pool? Not necessarily, not necessarily it. I mean that, I guess that's a, you know, shotgun approach to managing a pool, you know, you just pull out the big guns and just, you know, instead of managing well, you just are, just replace, but that's not the most efficient, that's not the most ecological way to manage things. And one of the reasons people do do this is they tab, they way over tab their pools, they're using stabilized chlorine to shock their pools. Or if they're using the stabilized tabs, which a trichlor tab, which is probably huge percentage of the tabs out there, there's very few that are not trichloric. But if you're using tabs, those tabs are 50% stabilizer. So as you're adding tabs during the year that every time you add one pound of tabs, you're adding a half pound of stabilizer, or very close to a half pound of stabilizer. And stabilizer does not evaporate. It does not get used up. When it gets introduced into the water. It stays in the water unless you dilute the water. So the way to prevent stabilizers from getting too high is you manage your pull better. You do things that requires less chlorine and that requires you to add less tabs to your pool, or less stabilized shock. If you're using stabilized shock, by the way, if you're a tadpole, do not be using dichlor to shock your pool. Especially if you have stabilizer issues, use a cow hypo, or use a liquid chlorine, dichlor. I see so many people. They go to Home Depot, or they go to Costco or Sam's or wherever, and they've, oh, man, this shock is really cheap and it's dichlor, which means it's about 50% stabilizer. So every time you shock your pool, you're adding extra stabilizer, which means you are now required to have more chlorine to accomplish the exact same thing, you got to have some stabilizer in your water. Stabilizer prevents the sun from burning up your chlorine, but stabilizer dumbs down your chlorine and makes your chlorine much less effective. So and the more you have, the worse it is the proper math. And this is from Bob Lowery. And there's a lot of people that use this. I believe IPSA even teaches this in their manuals and in their classes. And there's a lot of people that teach this, that whatever your stabilizer level is, and your water is up above 6570 degrees, and algae has become came out of dormancy and starting to multiply again. And algae will multiply in the right conditions. Algae will double every three to four hours. So if you have a little bit algae in there, and you're not killing it faster than it multiplies in three to four hours, you're going to have twice as much. In three to four hours, you're going to have twice as much again. In in three to four hours, you're going to have twice as much again. It's not uncommon to see a pool to go from blue one day to green the next, because the conditions were perfect for algae, and algae just took over the pool overnight. When the water hits 70 degrees every year, we see it in our retail stores. People that we haven't seen in six months show up and they're like, Oh my God, my pool is green. It looked great yesterday, where we got people coming over this weekend, and now my pool is green. Well, it's because algae came out of dormancy and you weren't ready for it, and it jumped on you and whipped your butt. So you need to be checking this now, before your water warms up, analogy gets really aggressive, so we want to check our stabilizer levels, and if you need to lower your stabilizer levels, well, there's a couple ways to do it. One, lot is through dilution. You just add water to the pool, overflow it and dilute it that way. But I mean, that's that's a hard way to do the math on how much you're going to have to add, because when you dilute water like that, you can't force just the stabilizer out of the water. You're going to force even some of the fresh water is going to leave the pool that you just added. So but that's one way to manage it. Another way to manage it is to drain the whole pool, or part of the pool. But be careful with that. Y'all, if you a pool can pop then if you got a vinyl liner, or you have a fiberglass pool, you need to be extremely careful, because you can easily destroy that pool, a gunite pool, if you drain a gun I pull, they can float like a boat. I've seen them pop two feet out of the ground, and it's a freaky thing. You walk into somebody's backyard and the pool is sitting a foot high, because the homeowner thought he was just going to drain his pool and clean it, and he got busy, and he never He didn't finish the job. Took him three or four days. The had a lot of ground water. Ground was saturated, and it pops the pool, pushes it out of the ground, and the pool will be sitting two, two feet high. And a lot of times that's a tear out. So you just bought yourself a new pool. If you do that, or you just, you're going to just rip the pool out and fill it with dirt. So we need to be prepping for the season, and when the first things we want to do is make sure just check our stabilizer levels and see where we're at on those you and we're going to go to break when I come back, we're going to talk about some other things, products that you can use to help reduce seaway and we'll be back in set. Damn, the water is green. Do you want to stop the cycle of metal staining and keep your pool and spa stain free all year long? Do you want happy customers while saving time and money introducing periodic products. See you later, metal eliminator and stain preventer, your answer for metal free and stain free pools, sequestering agents only temporarily suspend metals. See you later, removes and eliminates all stain causing metals like iron, copper, cobalt and manganese, and it changes color to identify the metals removed. Visit, see you later.com. That's C, U, L, A, T, O, r.com, and use code Deep End 44 for a special discount. It's not magic, it's science. You blu ray XL is the power of minerals working for you reduce your overall chemical costs and labor up to 50% guaranteed, whether you have 20 accounts or 20,000 blu ray XL direct pricing and free shipping to the cool trade. Have you covered? Improve? Being pull professionals profit and work life balance is what they do. Blu ray XL, the real mineral purifier. Visit them at blu ray xl.com, Blu ray all day. All right, everybody, we're back. I was talking about stabilizer and getting ready for the season, and we got a couple other topics we're going to talk about. But, all right, stabilizer Seaway, we've talked about dilution, either just overflowing the pool until you get the numbers down to where you need to get them, or draining the pool, and the dangers that can come with that. But there are other products that you can use to help lower the stabilizer before we go any further. One thing I want to bring up, I want to bust a myth here. There's a lot of people that say, if you are going to drain your pole to reduce your stabilizer level, to drain it from the top, to drain it from the upper layer, because that's where your cya hangs out. All right, that's bull. That's complete bowl. Y'all. That's not truth. That's a myth. When stabilizer, when it's in water in a swimming pool that's being circulated, the stabilizer is equally mixed throughout the water. It doesn't concentrate up top, it doesn't concentrate down low, it's equally distributed throughout the pool. Okay, I don't know who came up with this. I guess it made logic in somebody's head, so people started spreading this rumor, but it's bull, B, U, L, L, Bull. You cannot remove more stabilizer by draining from a certain point in the pool from the top or the bottom. Stabilizer is equally mixed throughout the water. Now it does its work up at the surface because it's protecting chlorine from UV rays. As UV rays pass through the water, the UV rays do less damage down deep. But that doesn't mean the stabilizer isn't down deep. It only means it's working up near the surface more than it's working down at the bottom. But there's no more stabilizer at the surface than there is at the bottom of the pole. If you're telling people that, please stop. Please stop. You look silly. Stop telling people that it is equally distributed. You can drain it from the bottom. You can drain it from near the surface. From near the surface. You can drain it from wherever you want. If you have a swimming pool that has stabilizer in it, then it doesn't matter where you remove the water from. You're removing the same amount of stabilizer per gallon of water from the surface or from the middle or from the top. It's equally distributed. Stop telling people that you look silly. But if did drain the pool, what we have found, and especially on pools that had really high stabilizer levels, cya levels, people that drain half the pool fill it back up. Well, that means, if you drain half the pool, that means you should have reduced your cya by 50% right? Well, what if you had really high levels? What we find is, after you fill it back up, when you first test, the levels are lower, but each week, they're just climbing like crazy. And so that tells me that if you get really high, high levels of stabilizer, what happens is, some of that stabilizer comes out of solution and sticks to surfaces, either inside a pipe or plaster or tile. I don't know, some people say it can't stick to stuff, but the only thing I can find that makes sense, because we drain the pool, filled it back up, and all of a sudden we have stabilizer levels again, or really high stabilizer levels again. That tells me that the cya must have got pushed out of solution on the surfaces, and when we drained it and lowered the concentration in the water, after refilling that came off those surfaces back into the water. So if you did drain all your pool, wait a wait a week or two before you go adding a lot of stabilizer, because you may get to get back up to minimum levels, which I like 30 parts per million of stabilizer is a minimum, but to get back up to those minimum levels, it may climb there on its own. So hold off a little bit before you just go add an extra stabilizer. All right. Other things you can do to remove extra seaway or stabilizer in the water is one of them is green story, global seaway or remover. Now, the reviews you'll see on this are going to be very mixed. All right, I see a lot of really bad reviews on this product. It works for me. Y'all now, it will work at a different rate on a different pool, but it works. One of the issues I didn't discuss with stabilizer is when you test it, anything over 100 is kind of a guess, but you can dilute your test sample by half. If you test it and it shows that it's over 100 well, that scale gets smaller and smaller and smaller and smaller and it's it's the higher the number, it's much more difficult to be accurate on what the levels are. So you can dilute your sample that you take with half. Tap water, if you'll do that, and then test it again, and then whatever result you get on your test you times it by two. And that's a that's going to give you a much more accurate reading to what your stabilizer love was. So because if you're at 150 and when you test it, you just pretty much know you're over 100 and you may be 250 you may be 300 you may only be 110 but if you'll dilute that test sample by half, that will give you a half reading of what the stabilizer level is, and then you can times it by two, and that's what your real stabilizer level is. But we've had pulls that we've tested through the dilution method. We've had pulls that we're 190 parts per million, and we use the green story global cya remover, put it in the skimmer basket, ran it properly. We had the client run the pool for 24/7 if they have a variable speed pump, we probably have them running at 2470 anyway, make sure the skimmer that we put the green story global in has good flow. And we have dropped pools in a matter of three to four weeks. We have dropped stabilizer levels and pools over 100 parts per million. We've taken them from 190 that's a diluted test sample. We've taken them from 190 down to 70 parts per million in three to four weeks. Now we've had other pools for whatever reasons, we may only get five parts per million of drop per week, or we may only get 10 parts per million of drop per week. So you're going to get varying results with it, but it always works. Now, some of the issues that you come across if you are using this product, and by the way, we sell it in our stores, my three pull work stores, we sell green story global seaway remover, but it's like a big old bean bag that goes in your skimmer basket, but it's big. So if you put it in the skimmer basket and you get a little bit of debris, all sudden, you may lose flow in that skimmer basket, which is means your cya remover is going to stop working. So you need to make sure that you keep your baskets empty. If you get a lot of debris, keep them empty. Keep as much flow going over this product as you can for the for more hours per day. Like said, we like run it 24 hours a day when we're trying to use this product, because if water is not running over it, it's not working. So we need to make sure the more water we have run over it for the longer period of time, the better the product is going to work. Now, one thing we will do, since this bean bag is so big, is when we put the bag down in the bottom of the skimmer basket, we'll set like a two inch coupling up on its side where the piping Direction is Up and down, to make sure we keep good flow going through that skimmer while we have that that green story global in there, and that really helps us get better results from our cya remover, right? There's other products out there that call themselves cya remover. There's one that comes in a little like foil bag. I'm not going to call it out by name, but I've used it before, and it doesn't work. My experience was it doesn't work. It will give you a temporary drop in cya levels, but then it always comes right back. And that's that's very aggravating to me. I think it disguises the test results. It helps people pass health code inspections so they can keep the pool open. But I don't believe it does a really good job removing the cya. But the green story global, I've had enough experience with it to really for me to claim that product works. They don't sponsor me. I don't get anything from them, but they are a good product. I like using it when I have cya issues. Now, typically we don't, we don't get a lot of cya issues because we manage our pools well. We have about 500 pools that we service on a weekly basis, and we manage our pools Well, we use other products, like we use borates and guys, cya is really only a problem with pools that use stabilized chlorine. If you're a liquid chlorine pool or use a salt pool, cya levels are probably not going to be your problem. But if you're using stabilized chlorine, and by the way, if you're a tab pool, a trichloro tab, those tabs are about 50% stabilizer. So every time you add a pound of tabs, which is two tabs, every time you add a pound of tabs, you're adding a half pound of stabilizer. And over time, that builds up, so you get these high cya levels over time, because cya does not remove itself from the pull it. It doesn't evaporate. It doesn't use itself up. It just builds up, builds up, builds up. So if you're using tabs, your stabilizer level should be increasing over time. And the more tabs you use, the more it's going to increase. And by the way, if you are a tri chlor tab pool, do not use a stabilized shock. If you're using a shock, a dichloric shock, or super chlorinating product, if you're using dichloro though, that is also about 50% stabilizer. So if you're, if you're using tabs, and you're shocking with the dichlor which a lot of times, is a shock. Y'all are buying at Costco and some of these other places. Yeah, it's cheap, but man, you're going to really make your issues with. Stabilizer, much, much, much worse. So if you are a tadpole, do not use a stabilized shock, because you're just going to make your problems worse. You want to either use a liquid chlorine or a calcium hypochlorite shock, and that's going to serve you much, much better. Now, some of the other things, other other processes of removing stabilizer, you know it's dilution, but there is another way to help remove stabilizer, and that's by using and there's a lot of studies coming out on this, using aluminum sulfate or using alum, which is a flock alum, you got to follow the directions if you get a flocking agent, and alum is the one you need to use to because I haven't seen any studies on other flocks. But if you're using an alum flock, a, l, u, M, I believe it stands for aluminum sulfate. You add this product to the water. Follow the directions very closely. You shut your system off, and it will drop a bunch of materials out of the water to the floor, and then you can vacuum it up. Now it will drop phosphates. It will drop Seaway. It may even possibly reduce your calcium, maybe a little bit, but I know it works on phosphates, and I know it works on cya. So if you have two things that you have to go after or three things that you have to lower to get ready for the season, an alum flock or dilution may be your better solution, because you're killing a couple birds with one stone. Now, when you do use an alum flock. You have to vacuum that to waste, so you need to make sure you dispose of it properly, make sure you're not violating any local codes or anything like that on how you're getting rid of it. Best way to do it is take it to the sanitary sewer. But when you add this flock, and you follow the directions closely, you'll drop your cya levels quite a bit, and you're not going to take it all out, but it basically what it does. It makes things clump together, and they fall out. They fall to the floor. The pump has to be off for a few days, and then you come you vacuum it up, take it to waste, and you may only end up removing 812, inches of water in this process through the vacuum to waste, but it does a really good job dropping Seaway, but the best way to manage seaway is manage your pool better. I know there's a service company near us that tells people, you know, hey, you got to drain half your pool every year. You know? What that tells me is they're not managing pools. They're just chlorinating pools to where nothing can live in it, and they're just adding tab, tab, tab, tab, tab. And their way of dealing with that is just telling you next every year you gotta drain half your pool. All right? That's that's not a good solution, in my opinion. I think that's mismanagement. I think the better way to do it is add less. CYA, if you add less, there's less you have to remove. And the process we use in that this is my business. It isn't all pool works, but my process of doing that is one. We use borates in every pool, which means we use less chlorine, which means we're adding less stabilizer. And we also use blu ray Excel on most and we may go to every pool this year, we're using blu ray Excel, but those two products together means it requires much less chlorine for me to manage that pool well. If I'm managing that pool well and using less chlorine, I'm adding less stabilizer through the summer, and we may only climb, and we try to get all the way down to 3040, parts for me and and see why. If we can on our stabilized chlorine pools, we may only climb 30 to 40 parts per million during the summer, or even less, and then as soon as our water gets below 70 degrees, we stop using stabilized chlorine. So we have about five months where our water temperatures are below 70 degrees that we don't add stabilized chlorine anymore, and through rains and just natural processes, we're going to lose some water, or we're going to dilute our water over the winter, and we're going to drop 3040, 50 parts per million of stabilizer over the winter. So we climb during the summer, while we're using our stabilized chlorine, and then we get off the stabilized chlorine and we drop over the winter, so the next spring, we're ready to go. We didn't have to drain half this pool. We didn't have to dilute all this water. We managed the pool. Wow. What an original concept, manage it, as opposed to just throw the baby out with the bathwater. You know, just Yes, sometimes it may be a better solution to drain part of your pool or to dilute your water, but you're better off if you just manage the water during the year and not get yourself to the point to where you need to drain part of your pool, right? Wow. We need to go to another break. We're going to be talking about one of my most favorite products that I've ever found, and that's See you later. From periodic products, C, U, L, A, T, O, r.com, we'll be talking about those when we get back. But what does it mean? Take a dive into the deep end. Hey Jackie, hey Frank. Have you ever wondered how you can. Cleaning between all those pesky filter pleats on a cartridge filter. Yeah, I lose sleep over it. I mean, it's so tedious and it takes forever, I could never seem to get them all clean. Well, here's a pro tip. Try the cyclone filter cleaner. It uses water pressure from your garden hose to spin the filter as you clean it. This allows all the filter pleats to get thoroughly cleaned out. And the best part is it is fast and doesn't hurt your back. Wow. The cyclone filter cleaner. You got it. The cyclone filter cleaner, you can thank me later. Thank and what I love about their filter cleaner is they have this wand. It's the best filter cleaning spray device I've ever used. We've tried many, many different ones. They got a short version now and they got a long version. But I love using those things, even on our de filters, we use their wands. And do we have a code? We have a special discount code. If you go to cyclone filter tools.com and use code deep end, you'll save 10% on your order so you can buy direct from them. Great stuff. I'm glad I found it. We got one on every truck. My guys love it. Guys don't miss out on this. This is the best filter cleaning system out there. Hey Jackie, hey Frank. Have you ever wondered how you can clean between all those pesky filter pleats on a cartridge filter? Yeah, I lose sleep over it. I mean, it's so tedious and it takes forever, I could never seem to get them all clean. Well, here's a pro tip. Try the cyclone filter cleaner. It uses water pressure from your garden hose to spin the filter as you clean it. This allows all the filter pleats to get thoroughly cleaned out. And the best part is it is fast and doesn't hurt your back. Wow. The cyclone filter cleaner. You got it? The cyclone filter cleaner, you can thank me later. Thank and what I love about their filter cleaner is they have this wand. It's the best filter cleaning spray device I've ever used. We've tried many, many different ones. They got a short version now and they got a long version. But I love using those things, even on our de filters. We use their wands. And do we have a code? We have a special discount code. If you go to cyclone filter tools.com and use code deep end, you'll save 10% on your order so you can buy direct from them. Great stuff. I'm glad I found it. We got one on every truck. My guys love it. Guys don't miss out on this. This is the best filter cleaning system out there. Why should you skim while you hire a pro? Everybody? We're back, we're into March, and spring is coming, and we're talking about some of the things to get our pool ready. Because y'all the water is going to be warming up. Water is warming up, and we need to be ready before that water gets in the mid 60s, 70 degrees, because your pool can go from blue to green overnight. So right now is when we need to get ready. We need to make sure our water is nice and balanced. We need to make sure we don't have any metal issues, we don't have any cya issues. We don't have phosphate issues or any of this other stuff going into the spring, because it will go from blue to green overnight, because algae multiplies, it doubles every three to four hours when the conditions are right. So we don't want to get in that situation that cost you a lot more money and ends up costing a lot more work. So we talked about getting our cya levels under control, stabilizer levels. The next thing I want to talk about, real quick in this segment, we're going to be talking about metals. Metals. Metals are an issue, guys. Now there's a lot of products that use metals to help us manage our pool, but we have to manage it. You can't just metal, metal, metal, metal into the pool. It's like cya. You can't just keep throwing it at it, or eventually you're going to have problems in your water. As your water warms up, it becomes more scaling or more staining. Water temperature increases your LSI, the higher your water temperature, the higher your LSI and your LSI. You've heard me talk about it, or at zero, the water is perfectly happy when you when you do all the calculations, and at zero, your water doesn't want to bring anything else in. It doesn't want to get rid of anything. When your LSI goes low, your water gets hungry and wants to go back up to zero. So if you end up at like, negative point five, negative point six, your water becomes more aggressive. It starts eating your plaster. Starts eating the grout out of your tile line. It starts eating anything metal it can get to so if you have a Pool Heater, your heat exchanger in your heaters has a lot of copper in it, so it will dissolve that and will bring all this in the solution, trying to get back up to zero. Now, as our water warms up, your LSI, if everything else is the same, your LSI goes up for every 10 degrees of water temperature climb. You're increasing about point 06 on your LSI, so if you were perfect, or maybe just a little bit high right now and your water is. Going to warm up another 40 degrees, which it will because we see water gets almost to 95 degrees here. Sometimes your LSI goes way up. So if everything else is the same, your water wants to get back down to zero, as that LSI gets up and it starts pushing metals and calcium out of solution to try to get back down to zero. So this is one of the main reasons people get metal staining in their swimming pools, because they have metals in the water. And then when the water warms up, or the LSI gets high, for whatever reason, those metals will come out of solution and start staining. So before you get to where you stained your pool, you need to check your water now, have your metal levels checked. You can retail stores have metal test in our area that we test for is iron and coppers. We don't see a whole lot of cobalt or some of these other metal issues, but iron and copper is the main things we're testing for. So we want to test now. And I'll be honest with you. I don't going into the season, I don't want any metal, and I definitely don't want anything over point two. So before we start the season, if we have high metals, or any metals really in the water, we want to remove those metals. And the way we do that is we use See you, later, C, U, L, A, T, O, R, their website is cu later.com and I actually have a coupon code that you can use at CU later.com you can go to their online store and you can purchase their products direct. I mean, if you're near me, come to me. We have a good price on their products. Also, if you're near a retail store that carries that carries it, I definitely recommend you go to that retail store and purchase from them. But if you don't have a neat retail store, or just much easier for you, you can buy the product online, and you can use coupon code, deep end, 44 deep end, like our podcast, D, E, E, P, E, N, d4, four as your coupon code. And you can save money on your purchases online. If you are going to get the product and you don't have a retail store local that uses it, you can purchase it online and use deep in 44 as your coupon code and save some money. Now, what it does is the See you later. Metal eliminator removes metal from the water, and if we remove metal from the water, that means the metal we removed from the water cannot stain or a plaster. So if we're testing metals right now, we're going to put See you later in it's a little product. You put it in your skimmer basket as water runs over it again, you got to have good flow over it for it to work, kind of like the green story global product, but put it in the skimmer and it bonds to metals as it passes over the product and removes the metals from the water. The product we use mostly. It's the metal Eliminator, and it's called the 4.0 it will remove up to four parts per million of metals, all metals, from the water in 20,000 gallons of water. So four parts per million, y'all, that's a lot of metal. That's a lot of metal. What we'll do on our routes is we'll take it from pool to pull. We test all our pools. We're testing all our pools right now for metals, and if we have any metals, we'll put a CU later metal Eliminator in it the 4.0 we'll drop that pool down to zero, and then we take it to the next pool that we need to drop the metals out. We can, typically, we have about 500 pulls, so we can just use 25 to 40 cu laters on, all of our pools, moving it from pool to pool, and get all our metals down to zero. And that gets us very ready going into the season, because we also use blu ray XL, which has trace metals in it, but a lot of those will filter out. But if you're using a copper algaecide, you're getting a lot of metals. If you've let your water get aggressive. You've got a lot of metals in your water, so you want to remove those going into the season, so they're not problematic. Now, if you've already metal stained, if you've already got stains on your pool surfaces, all right, you need to get the stain off the surface before you can remove it out of the water. So if your pool is already stained up with copper. Your pool is the color of the Statue of Liberty. You know, she's made out of copper. That's why she's bluish green. And if you're getting those bluish green or purple, which is copper signer eight stains, you need to remove the stain off the surface before the CU later metal eliminator will work. Well, See you, later also makes metal stain removers. Now, when using a metal stain remover is best, in my opinion, if you use one that's specific for a certain metal stain. So you need to identify the stain before you remove it. If it's blue screen, it's most likely going to be a copper stain. If it's a purple stain, that's going to be a copper sign. Aerate still a copper stain, but it may have a different process of removing it. If it's brown, there's a few things that can be or black. Lot in our area, it's usually iron, but I have to remove that metal off the surface first. So I'll use, see you later, metal stain remover, not just metal remover, metal stain remover. I'll use that product. And when you're using. A stain remover. Guys, you have to follow the instructions. Make sure you follow the strut in instructions, or you may not get decent results. So we have to pull the stain off the plaster, get it into solution, once we have it back into the water, then we want to sequester it. Use I like See you later. Sequester an agent. There's several sequestering agents out there. I sequester it into the water. That keeps it from coming back out of solution and staining again, but eventually your chlorine will burn up the sequestering agents so the metal becomes free to stain again. So after I've sequestered it now, my cu later metal eliminator will remove the metal from the water, so it's no longer a problem, guys, this is the, this is the only product I found that does a good job of actually removing metal from the water. Now, stain removers, you know, there's several stain removers out there, I think, see you, laters or premium, but there are others that will do a good job removing stains, but again, you have to follow the instruction, and then once the metals in the water, sequester it, then remove it. So let's not go into the season, because if you've got if metals have been building up over the years, or cya levels have been building up on you, go into this spring, ready, get your water tested, do what you need to do to prevent you from having problems. If you can remove the metal before it stains, it's much less expensive and there's much less work involved. You don't want to stain your we want to manage the water. We don't want to just react to problems. It's prevent the problems from happening, and that's going to make our lives much, much easier. It's going to save us a lot of money over time. So let's test the water now before it gets warm enough to stain or let's test the water now before our pool turns green because our cya levels have gotten so high, or we've let other things get out of whack. Hopefully, you've been managing your pool all year round, and because you've managed it, you're not on the cusp of having problems. But if you're one of these people, and I don't applaud you for this, if you're one of these people that you know, just let your pool go during the winter and you don't mind putting all this extra work into it in the spring, then you need to start now. Before your water warms up, you need to start now, because water is going to become more scaling with the water temperature rises, you're going to get a lot more algae, dumping, dumping into the water. You're going to get a lot more storms and stuff like that. Typically in our area, we get a lot more storms in the spring and in the early summer, so we're going to be getting a lot of crap in our water, and if we're not ready, we're going to spend a lot of money trying to make it right. But appreciate you guys listening. Make sure you check out all our social media stuff. You can typically find us at at Deep End Frank, check out our YouTube page. We've got a lot of good videos on our YouTube page, and email me at deepin, frank@gmail.com that's deep in, frank@gmail.com hopefully, Jack, you'll be able to join us next week. If not, I'll be back and we'll find a good topic to discuss. Y'all have a good weekend. They're really good folks. Be sure to give us a five star rating and review on your favorite podcast platform, and send us questions and topic suggestions to deepen frank@gmail.com that's deep end frank@gmail.com and also check out our home page at the deep endpool podcast.com for all of our podcasts and video content and links to our blogs and our sponsors and the products we know and trust. Also find us on Facebook, Tiktok and YouTube by searching at deep and Frank you.