Will using Retinoids thin your skin?

Discover the truth behind one of skincare's most persistent myths with the guidance of the no-nonsense dermatologist, Dr. Stefanie Williams. Many have heard that retinoids might thin your skin, but here Dr. Stefanie sets the record straight. Tune in as she dismantles this misconception revealing how these vitamin A derivatives, found in both over-the-counter and prescription products, actually work to thicken and fortify your skin's living layers.

This episode is your go-to resource for understanding the true nature of retinoids and their invaluable role in skincare. Whether you're a skincare newbie or a seasoned enthusiast, Dr. Stefanie’s expert advice will empower you to incorporate retinoids into your routine with confidence. 

Dr Stefanie Williams is a renowned dermatologist and the medical director of Eudelo Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing (www.eudelo.com), a multi-award-winning skin clinic in Central London. With over 28 years of practice, Dr Stefanie is an international key opinion leader in cosmetic dermatology and aesthetic medicine, having authored two Amazon No-1 bestselling books. 

Eudelo offers a comprehensive range of treatments for both medical and aesthetic skin concerns, combining the latest scientific advances with a personalized approach to skincare. The clinic's commitment to excellence has earned it accolades such as "Best Clinic in London" and "Best Dermatologist" in the Marie Claire awards. 

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Disclaimer: The information presented in 'Dermatology Debriefs' is for educational and informational purposes only. The content does not constitute professional medical advice. Stefanie Williams and/or Eudelo do not establish a doctor-patient relationship through this content. Always consult a licensed healthcare professional for personalized medical advice specific to your individual health needs. The content represents personal opinions and perspectives of Stefanie Williams, and may not reflect current medical consensus or standard medical practice. Content may become outdated and should not be considered current guidance. By listening to this content, the listener acknowledges and agrees that: i) The information is provided 'as is' without warranties. ii) Stefanie Williams and Eudelo bear no legal responsibility for any actions taken or omitted, based on this content. iii) Stefanie Williams and Eudelo bear no legal responsibility for any direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, or special damages arising from or related to this content. iv) Individual health decisions and medical conditions require personalized professional medical assessment and treatment. Listeners should never use this content to diagnose, prevent, treat, or manage any health condition.

Transcript

Speaker 1: 0:01

Dermatologist debriefs. Join no-nonsense dermatologist Dr Stephanie Williams as she debunks myths and shares her professional insights, separating facts from fiction, in just a few minutes.

Speaker 2: 0:18

Hello, this is Dr Stephanie, so today I'd like to answer the question whether retinoids thin our skin. This is a question I'm asked very frequently and there is a lot of confusion surrounding this topic. Before I answer that question, just a little bit of background about retinoids. So the term retinoid is a family name for a group of ingredients often used in skincare. Retinoids are actually vitamin A derivatives, and the ones we often see in skincare are, for example, retinol, retinaldehyde or, most commonly used in skincare, retinyl esters, like retinol palmitate, for example, and all of those are available over the counter in the UK. And then, of course, there are prescription strength retinoids like tretinoin, which is retinoic acid and that you can only get via a doctor in the UK, although in other countries they might be available over the counter. Over the counter is also a new group of retinoids available, namely the retinoic acid esters, and, as mentioned, in the UK you can get them over the counter, where in other countries they are falling under the prescription category.

Speaker 2: 1:53

Retinoids have a lot of benefits for our skin. One of those benefits is that they are able to repair some of the sun damage that has accumulated on our skin. They are also collagen stimulators and for that reason, they are used in anti-aging skincare and they can also improve irregular pigmentation and, as an added benefit, they are able to reduce breakouts like acne and also congestion with blackheads and whiteheads. However, despite all of these benefits, some patients are reluctant to use topical retinoids, and the reason they most often cite is that they've heard or read that retinoids thin our skin. Is that they've heard or read that retinoids thin our skin? So is that actually true? The answer is no. They actually do the opposite. What retinoids do is they thicken and strengthen the living layers of our skin. So that would be the epidermis, the outermost layer, and the dermis is the middle layer of our skin, where our collagen and elastin live, and these living layers are actually thickened by retinoids, which is one of the reasons why we use retinoids in anti-aging skincare.

Speaker 2: 3:21

Now, where the myth comes from that retinoids thin the skin is that they exfoliate the skin. That means they remove excess dead skin material from the skin surface. That's called the stratum corneum or horny layer, and retinoids really help removing excess stratum corneum layers from the top of the skin, which is actually a good thing because it enhances the radiance of the skin and reduces dullness of the skin. So, in summary, retinoids only thin the dead skin layer on top of our skin thin the dead skin layer on top of our skin, but they in fact thicken the living skin layers of the skin the epidermis and the dermis. I hope this makes sense. If you'd like to ask me something, you can post your questions on the Udello social media channels and I'm very happy to answer them in one of the next weeks and I will speak to you again soon.