Everyday Hiker
Hiking inspiration, tips and guides for South East Queensland region and beyond. Featuring special guests revealing their favourite trails and gear recommendations.
Everyday Hiker
Ngaro Track with Julie Cross
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Join me and special guest Julie Cross as she talks about her experiences on the new Ngaro Track in the Whitsundays. Bookings for the 2027 season open on **11 August **. It sold out quickly last time so here is an opportunity to hear about the track, the boat ride over, what to take and the highlights.
NB: Apologies for the quality of the audio - we had to record this interview in an semi open area so some background noise is audible.
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Are you looking for details of the most beautiful weekend hikes in South East Queensland and further afield? Well you're in the right place. Welcome to the Everyday Hiker Podcast. My name is Beck and I'm your host. Join me and my guest hikers as we share amazing locations, practical tips and guides for new hikers, as well as those with more experience looking for some inspiration. And please, if you like what you hear, follow me, share with your friends, rate my podcast, and send me your feedback. Hello and welcome everyone. I'm really delighted today to have my special guest, Julie. Welcome, Julie Cross.
SPEAKER_00Thank you, great to be here, Beck. Thanks for having me.
SPEAKER_01Now Julie is an inspirational speaker, adventurer, and part-time hiker, and you might wonder why Julie's here, and that is because she has done the brand new NARO track up on Whitehaven Beach, Whit Sunday Island in the With Sundays. And because it is a brand new track, I just thought it would be great to talk to someone who's already done it. Can give us all the inside knowledge on what's involved. So Julie, let's kick off with when did you do the track?
SPEAKER_00So we did it back in May. We felt pretty lucky actually to get on it because it's, I think it booked out then for the year pretty quickly. Yeah, so back in May is when we embarked on it, and we were a pretty regular group of hypers. There was only one new one amongst us, but he's a young fit um male who's in the army, so we weren't worried about his fitness level. Um, but the rest of us, um, my sister-in-law, my niece, um my girlfriend and I, and I guess us older ladies all around that um mid-50s to late 50s age range, and then a couple of the young ones with us. Um so yeah, we're regular hikers, and we said, well, we better go and do this one. We've done quite a few around Australia, so it was time to get the pack back out of the mothballs. It had been a while since I'd had the big pack out and do a bit of training and get ready for NARO.
SPEAKER_01So that's fantastic because you're going to have some different experiences here because of the different ages. So we'll talk about that as we go through. Um, now getting there is a bit of a journey to start.
SPEAKER_00Absolutely, so not an expensive um track to book if you're doing it on your own, unguided. So we did that, but the expense comes in then with regards to getting there. So I live in Brisbane, so for me it's a flight to Proserpine, it's a shuttle bus, then into Airley Beach. And because of the timing of the hike as well, leaving early in the morning, we're arriving the night before, so it's accommodation the night before, and then the night of when we get back, because you're getting back quite late as well. So I guess when you add that up, depending on where you're coming from, it can um be a little bit more expensive. But anyway, still worth it. So we booked it, and then you've also got the ferry ride, and it's actually the ferry ride that is probably the most expensive part of it, which we all sort of had a fair bit of discussion on. I don't know if they've got a monopoly on it at the moment. And I would say that it probably for the price they were charging us, you know, they could have probably done a little better job with that comfort. It was a very uncomfortable ride in a very uncomfortable vessel. Um, but anyway, that's just nitpicking at things that I think that as it moves and as it grows and as it's more people go and they get feedback. I wonder if they will change that slightly. Um but anyway, that's how you've got to do it if you want to do it. So um get it up there. Yep, that's right.
SPEAKER_01Because I'm thinking of Tasmania's three capes and they include the ferrous and they all have the cruise around, which is really great. So that could be some.
SPEAKER_00That's what we thought um when we finished. You know, why didn't they make that really part of it? Where you're in the most beautiful passage of water, and yet you really couldn't see out because you're sort of sitting down low in this vessel, and it was so and he went so fast, it was so rough. But we just thought that that could have been a much more. I mean, I think that did more damage than the actual height was the ferry trip, especially on the way back. But anyway, it'll be interesting as as time goes, as you know, to whether they might improve that and you know, give you some commentary as you're going through this beautiful part of the world to arrive at you know your height, but you just it was so loud you couldn't talk anyway because the engine was so loud. But anyway, anyway, so part of the adventure was getting there. Exactly.
SPEAKER_01But you are are you actually disembarking on Whitehaven Beach?
SPEAKER_00Yes, so you're disembarking on, I think it is actually the they say it's the um southern end of Whitehaven Beach, is where you arrive. Um, and we hop off air, it's early, so we have a swim, you know, when we get there because it I mean it's just stunning, it is so stunning. And so uh we had a swim straight away pretty much, and a few other of the other hikers did as well, we noticed. Um, and then we started ambling off and following the arrows. And it was nice to arrive early in the campsite because it was such a magnificent campsite. You kind of arrive and they've got these incredible purpose-built shelters and common areas where you big tables, wooden tables, big stainless steel benches where you can prepare your meals. Although you do have to take everything with you, everything you take in and everything you take out. Um, but lovely communal area and the most magnificent view. So, moon camp, it's called, and you sit there and watch the moon rise over this incredible, spectacular vista of blue water of these beautiful cliffs all around you. It truly just give me goosebumps talking about it. You just sort of walk in and you just go, ah, this is unbelievable. This is what it's about. This is the Witsundays, this is what we were walking for. So, yeah, it was kind of nice in the end to have a bit of extra time there too. Um, and then it's choosing your your site, you know, your campsite, and it is platform, so you know it was the first time I'd actually done platforms, mostly I'd done uh on the ground with our tents, so they do have the wooden platforms for you to use. So just remembering to take something to tie down. You know, you can use rocks, and we managed to use our actually tent pegs worked in between the slats, but yours may not fit, so just maybe come up with some options to take with you in case you need to tie down. Um, so yeah, set up our campsite and then just enjoyed watching the sun go down and you know, watching this beautiful um moon rise and the beautiful starry night. It was um it was wonderful, so yeah, got a good.
SPEAKER_01So you're on a beach if you're in a bay, can you swim there?
SPEAKER_00Um not we swam um when we arrived at Whitehaven. We could have swum at lunchtime um as well at the beach, but here you are literally on a cliff top. Right. So it's not actually on the beach, the second night we're on the beach. So this is just all about the view, really. So yeah, you're up high on a cliff and it's all about the view. Um, so yeah, good sleep, and then um the next morning we had to say goodbye and keep on walking, keep on walking for day two. So, day two, we're walking to what they call tree camp on day two, and we have 9.8 kilometres, um, but it is um hard hiking, they're designating as a hard day hiking, and it was hard day hiking, I don't mind telling you, Beck, it just felt a bit hard today. Like it was it had been a while since I'd done um full pack, so my pack's sitting at about 12 kilos. Um, and you know, I did a little bit of practice again, but if you're not used to packing with a full pack where you've got to take all your food and all your tents and you know everything with you, um, then you need to do some practice, I would say, um, because it was a bit of a tough day with elevation. We climbed up the the top of this massive um mountain, I shouldn't know the name, I don't, but you'll know it when you get there. And we'd actually been seeing the mountain. The toilets have these spectacular views at the campsite, and we're if I'd realised that a toilet I was sitting in at Moon Camp, I'm looking at this massive rock in front of me, thinking, oh, that's beautiful rock. Little did I know I'd be on top of it the next day. So that's the rock you're walking up on. So um it was a bit tough, but you know, doable if you're a regular hiker and you're used to pack walking, then of course it's very doable. There are steps, there's ladder, and then there are steps that you sort of it looks a bit scary when you first get there, and it was quite windy. Um, but again, just taking care and being aware as you're going up them. I I leant forward and actually put my hands in front of the step in front of me because that just felt more stable for me. Um and I wish I had recommended my mate behind me that didn't hop on the steps until I'd got up because I thought afterwards that if I'd just slipped or something, I could have taken her out. So just being aware, making sure pulling yourself into the moment and in that sort of space and saying, Right oh, a step at a time and doing it safely, and then you get to the top and again you turn around, you're like, Oh my gosh, look at that view. Um, and it's also worth it. So, yeah, a bit of a tougher day.
SPEAKER_01But so Julie, I'll stop you there because we were talking beforehand, you actually showed me some photos, and I think giving people an appreciation for what's involved in the hike is really important. So um you showed me the stairs, and one of the things I thought straight away is um, okay, if I face those without a pack, I'd probably be like, okay, take your time. Yes. It's completely different though when you're like a giant turtle.
SPEAKER_00That's right, and your weight's pulling you back and it's windy, which for me is why I leaned forward. I just felt more stability in leaning forward, a lower profile, um, because that wind felt like it could just whip you, and of course, you've got your pack, so you've got a little bit more area, you know, where the wind can sort of um hit a hit on you there. So, yes.
SPEAKER_01Yeah, so I think the message to take out of it is that if you are contemplating this, like you do have to do some training, so you need to do some hills training. Absolutely. You need to do some pack training. Absolutely. Take your pack up the line. Absolutely.
SPEAKER_00You know, the pack really does change everything, you know. And I know when my sister came on a hike with me the first time, and she's a a great walker. You know, she walks fast, she walks regularly, she's fit, she's strong, all of that. Great walker, but she'd never done any real um training and practice consistently with a pack on. And so I mean, when she came on that first hike, I mean she was pretty teary because it really was, yeah, she was really, yeah, challenged and really realised that it does make a difference. And we don't walk around with 12 kilos on our back on a regular basis. That's right. So of course it's gonna change everything. Um, so not to scare people off doing it, but you have to do the training, you have to go prepared. Now that doesn't mean you know, you don't go and think, well, I should have done a little more preparation, or you know, I wasn't prepared for this bit. Um, but you've got to do enough to know that you're confident that, you know, because you know, but very early on when I started hiking, that realisation hits where it's like they're not gonna send a helicopter in because you've got blisters, or they're not gonna send a helicopter in because you're tired now, you know, or your shoulders a bit sore from carrying the pack, or your back's hurting a little bit, you know, it's you you you've got to have some grit, but you've also got to be prepared.
SPEAKER_01And it's one way you've got to keep going.
SPEAKER_00Yes, that's right, and no one else is gonna carry it back, like you know, they've all got their own pack, like so, yeah. Um, so that realisation, but of course, you get to the hill and then you get to go down again um and walk into your next campsite, which is tree camp, and this is by the beach. So, kind of you know, when you walk in, the same thing, it's in this sort of lovely little um area with palm trees and all sorts of different trees, it's sort of nestled in, but then you can look through and you can see this beautiful beach. So we set up and we took our our chairs, which is my go-to that you always take, and straight down to the beach to do afternoon snacks and um and some water, some drinks on the beach, some hydration and um had a swim. Yeah, we have because you either be salty or smelly, so we decided we'd go as salty um because there's no showers, so we had to swim and enjoyed watching the sunset come. You know, it was beautiful again, beautiful.
SPEAKER_01Makes it all worthwhile.
SPEAKER_00Absolutely.
SPEAKER_01So is day three a a a little less challenging than day two?
SPEAKER_00Yeah, so well, day three actually they still rate us hard, which is interesting. I don't think it's long. Yeah, probably rating it hard because of the yeah, so it is a long, it's 13.8 kilometres. And this again is a day where you know, oh, how long is it going to take us? We've got to make it back for the ferry because the ferry's picking you up that afternoon, so you've got a time, it's it's longer. Um, they rated it as hard, it you know, it could take us forever, so let's leave early, let's get out there, let's rush. But here's the other thing that with the dynamic of the hiking group, you know. So we have two young ones who, you know, are faster than us and are into getting there because they're still in that mindset. We've just got to get there. Uh, you know, and I just want a forest bay that enjoyed a little bit more, but then you don't want to have them waiting on you or thinking that you're taking too long or maybe something's wrong and you've got no way to communicate, so you kind of feel pressure anyway to keep up a little bit as well. So so we got there and we had plenty of time. But um, so the new rate is hard, and I think sometimes what I've learnt with raiding the way we rate hikes in Australia as well, sometimes they say hard also because uh it may not be as well signed, and you might just need to be aware of where you're going and really watching for those arrows. And there are a couple of little times where it you sort of think, Oh well, which way should we be going again? Uh so I sometimes think that that's why they also you've just got to be a bit more mindful about where you're going. Uh, so no, not not as hard as day two, but um this has a spectacular view, but you've got to go to the lookout. So that's what I would really recommend on this hike as well. Anytime there's a side trip for a lookout, um, always go and do the side trip because this one particular one on day three is just probably the most spectacular vista of the whole hike. And it was an easy little you leave your packs at the bottom and you just walk up to to the sort of view area where you're on the coast again and looking across again at all this magnificent area that you've just hiked through, but also the coastline.
SPEAKER_01So it's not it's not a coastal walk as such. No, that's three caves.
SPEAKER_00That's what I think's a little bit surprising for people is that yes, it is very much internal, um, but then you come out in these areas where you suddenly see where you've been walking through and you're on the edge again. So always do the little side tracks to go and see the viewers. Yeah, you get perspective then as well, you know.
SPEAKER_01Yes, yeah, to see where you are.
SPEAKER_00And day three's also got the mangrove walk, which is another sort of you know, mixing it up a little bit again. Um, so you've got a walk that goes um through all this sort of mangrove area, which is nice too, a little meander.
SPEAKER_01So what about wildlife? Did you encounter any along the track?
SPEAKER_00We didn't see a lot of wildlife, I would say. Birds, we saw lots of birds. Um, no crocodiles, I'm happy to report.
SPEAKER_01Too salty, too far. Yeah, that's happy.
SPEAKER_00Yeah, so no, I wouldn't say, you know, there were no snakes or anything like that. So no, no, not a lot of wildlife at all.
SPEAKER_01Okay, but what about fauna?
SPEAKER_00I'm assuming, like you said, oh yeah, all the fungi and you know, the the change in um yeah, the change in around you all the time with regards to this sort of one minute you're walking through the sort of palm trees, and then it's a the vegetation changes again. So, and I really love that, I love that. And also, you know, you're on rocks and you and I love it when a walk's different. That's why I love the Thorsborne Trail on Hingebrook Island because I felt like the walking's changing all the time. You're sort of rock hopping one minute and then you're you know, you're walking through a river crossing, so there's a couple of river crossings in this as well. Um, and then yeah, you're walking through different sort of vegetation areas, so yeah, it's nice for that as well.
SPEAKER_01What was the temperature like? Was it comfortable?
SPEAKER_00Yeah, it was. Um, definitely beautiful time for walking, which is why the walk would be open in that time of year, you know. Beautiful um temperature for walking during the day. Um, the girls all took something warmer for night uh because it did get a little bit cool at night, and especially when you're sitting on the edge at moon camp there and you're exposed, and so I didn't because I was adamant I wasn't taking too much. I always take too much, and this time I packed really lightly, and so I didn't, I just took one long sleeve shirt that I slept in as well, and and that was it. I didn't take an extra jacket, and that was fine. I didn't take a rain jacket, I decided if it was raining, I'm getting wet because up there it's not as if you get wet and it's freezing cold either. Yeah, it's usually still quite warm. So we did have a little bit of rain on one day, but not enough to even worry about, really. So that was a good move as well in the end. But I wouldn't necessarily recommend not taking a rain jacket, but I didn't because I just wanted lightweight.
SPEAKER_01Now I saw the pictures of you and your pack, so there's still a little bit of stuff there's a stuff. I can imagine at the last. The girl's gonna eat. So is that is you know, so let's talk water for a start. Yes. Because we're on a tropical island. What did you do with water?
SPEAKER_00So they have water at every campsite, and they actually have two other um water stops on day three and day two, which is great. So sort of halfway through your height, you can fill up. So I actually didn't they recommend three litres. I think most days I walked with two, um, knowing that I could fill up anyway. And so the first day I think I had the extra, and then the next day I went, you know what, I didn't go close to using that on backing off because it's again it's all weight and water weighs a lot carrying it. So absolutely.
SPEAKER_01And did you have to filter it? Did they recommend it using it?
SPEAKER_00They did recommend it, and I and some of us did, some of us didn't. We started off doing it and then didn't worry about it, so yeah, but yeah, I just took some tablets anyways. And some of the girls had those filter water bottles.
SPEAKER_01Yes, yeah, yeah, that's good. Yes. Okay, and so food, yeah, that's the main weight in your pack, you think?
SPEAKER_00Well, I think it is, it must be with food. I mean, I've got the lightest tent you can get. I upgraded everything, I've got the lightest mattress in the world, the lightest tent in the world, the lightest everything. But you think, why does it still weigh so much? And you're eating your food and you're thinking it's not getting any lighter. Um but I think we yeah, we were all talking about that. It's surprising how much food weighs, you know, when you do sort of pick it all up and you're oh that weighs a fair bit. Um, but again, I was really good with my food. I I didn't take, I pretty much ate everything I took.
SPEAKER_01So, in terms of cooking facilities, barbecues and with a gas stove.
SPEAKER_00No, no, nothing like that. So just benches, you've got to take your burners, you've got to take your saucepans, you've got to take everything, your food, everything. So you still need to take everything with you. Yeah, to cook with unlike three capes that you've kind of got cooking facilities. No, you still need to take everything. Yeah.
SPEAKER_01Okay, that's that's fantastic. So that's gonna weigh too weight. So despite going through and tossing out some things, maybe, or deciding not to take some things, was there anything that you took that you thought I didn't really need that?
SPEAKER_00Well, I don't think there was in the end. I think I did really well in the end with what everything that I took. But I did, you know, after doing so many hikes now, I did really pull back. And the other thing to do, which I don't know if groups do often enough, is when you're in a group, like um my girlfriend took the kettle and I said, Well, I'll bring the saucepan. So when we're cooking, we can use my saucepan and we'll share the kettle. So we just shared, and how many gas burners do we really need between all of us, you know, and how many refills of gas do we need? Um, so just being a bit smarter like that, I think we were a bit smarter like that this time, too, that we didn't all take everything for ourselves. That we said, Well, what are you taking? Well, I can leave that and I'll take this instead. So um we were a bit more aware of that. So I don't think in the end that there was anything that I I didn't use or that I shouldn't have taken. And I only took two sets of clothes, so one that I walked in first day, and then I slept in the second set at night, walked in the same clothes the second day, slept in those next ones on the second night, the same new clothes, and then wore them out on the third day. So yeah. Yeah, that's right, and you can get away with that, yeah.
SPEAKER_01So conversely, was there anything that you wished you'd take but you didn't take?
SPEAKER_00Um, but the thing that I am so pleased that I took that I would recommend everybody take is a chair. Um, not so much important, I guess, for this one because you have got um stools and that at the campsites, but the chair for us, and I think all of us would say the same thing. The first time we all did a hike without a chair, and one person had a chair, we were all just so envious and jealous because when you just want to have a break after hiking, you take your pack off. Sometimes you just want to sit back, you don't want to sit on a hard rock, or you know, you want to lean back into something comfortable and just those little hiking chairs where you can just relax, it's comfortable, you've got a little bit of support for your back. Uh, it just makes such a difference and going down and sitting on the beach and being able to take your chair down and relax and letting your body relax a little bit. Um, yeah, in a sitting position. Fantastic. So we all love our chairs. I think for us, it's are you taking your chair? We're always taking our chair, we're taking our chair. So even not at night or um during the day for those breaks as well.
SPEAKER_01I saw this amazing invention the other day where you get the sleeping mat and it's kind of like a ha a hammock that you fold the sleeping mat into sort of thirds, I guess, and you put the bottom two-thirds into this hammock, you clip it on, and it forms like a soft chair. And I thought that's very, very clever because only you just seat a comfy seat at the end of the cabinet.
SPEAKER_00Yes, that's right. And just to give you, yeah, your back arrest, your everything a rest.
SPEAKER_01So in in in terms of view you you were wearing, um can you talk uh to me about what shoes you had on?
SPEAKER_00Oh, so I'm doing the um the hikers shoes. Low profile shoes now. So I had been wearing the heavy usual hiker boots, but I'd started wearing the um oh what are they called? You know, the shoes that you wear that trail shoes. Yeah, and they're yeah, so they're just a low profile shoe. So, and I did break them in a little bit, I've still lost three toenails, but I think that that's my tying of my shoes, you know. So when you're going downhill, your feet sort of are uh heading into the front of your shoe, and I've got no blisters or anything like that. Toe socks for me are a game changer again when you're getting blisters. Toe socks uh for me are really important. Um, yeah, and I we just use the hiking shirts that dry very, you know, easily and quickly in hiking shorts and pants. So, but I'd have to say the last day, when we finished on the last day, you know, actually take togs because you will want to have a swim. Um, and that's where the ferry was picking up from. So we were at that beautiful lookout on the other end of Whitehaven Beach then, looking out this magnificent lookout. And if you want to go down into Whitehaven to have a swim, you've kind of got to walk back down the stairs again and have a swim. Um otherwise you're getting picked up from Tung Bay, which is kind of over a little bit further, and um and that's where and that's where um it's a bit rocky for swimming, so yeah. If you want to have a swim, then swim in Whitehaven.
SPEAKER_01Okay. Did you take poles?
SPEAKER_00No, but my sister-in-law is a pole carrier, so she did take poles and she loves her poles. Um but the rest of us didn't have poles. Um I I I haven't gotten used to working with poles yet, so I'm not a pole.
SPEAKER_01It depends on the track.
SPEAKER_00But they do recommend it, yeah. Okay, great.
SPEAKER_01So I think we've covered it. Yes, yeah, we've covered all the gear, we've covered what the walk is like.
SPEAKER_00And it is beautiful, but do it. You know, if you're if you if you you know you're a hiker and you're looking for that next hike, then um highly recommend it. It's just stunning. Um, it's a beautiful part of our world, and uh yeah, breathtaking. The views are breathtaking. And the walk's beautiful, it's a beautiful walk, they've done a great job with it.
SPEAKER_01Fantastic. Thanks again, Julia. Really appreciate your time. Uh, Scenario track, I will put the link and all the details on the show notes for this episode. So thank you as always for listening. If you like what you heard, please do throw me a follow, share with your friends, and uh until next time, happy hiking.
SPEAKER_00Happy liking.