He's On A Mission To Get To The Paralympics! | James Rudge on Tilly Talks Tech

Paraclimbing is a brand new sport being introduced at the Paralympics in Los Angeles in 2028 and James has his sights on being there, in the flesh! 🧗‍♀️ 

He's already been pre-selected as a GB athlete but it's going to take trials, tribulations and a lot of qualifiers before he proves he can compete for real - but we've got his back every step of the way!

I'm interested to know what tech it takes to get there, where tech is used in training and all the ways we push forward in our human potential. 👀 🧗‍♀️ 

We're on all platforms, SUBSCRIBE! https://feeds.buzzsprout.com/2522490.rss

Check out James here!:
https://www.instagram.com/rudge_paraclimbing/

OUR SOCIALS!
https://www.instagram.com/tilly.lockey/
https://www.instagram.com/openbionics/

Book Tilly to host your event, show, speak at your company: tilly@openbionics.com

Sponsored by Open Bionics!

Transcript

SPEAKER_00 0:00

The Paralympics is one of the most elite demanding stages in the world. Every athlete there represents years of sacrifice, resilience, and an almost unreal level of commitment. We're talking about the absolute best of the best, people. These humans have pushed through barriers most of us can't even imagine, just to earn their place on that start line. Now imagine this. You're not just watching it, you've been pre-selected and you're already deep in that process. Every day you're training, knowing that in 2028, on one of the biggest stages in global sport, you could be there representing your country. That's exactly where today's guest is at right now in his journey. Hello everybody, welcome to Tilly Talks Tech. I am your host, Tilly. We have just had the Winter Paralympics at Milano Cortina, right? Insane, amazing. But today's episode, I'm so excited because I'm gonna be learning all about a world which I've never really explored very much. I'm talking to a guy who's actually training to be a Paralympian. Guys, I suck at sports, so like that's just never even crossed my radar. But I've always found it so inspiring. The people who are gone for that, training every day and doing it like hell yeah. On this podcast, we like to talk about all the things pushing the boundaries of innovation, the future, human potential. And what we're gonna be learning today is not sure on any of those things. I'm joined by GB paraclimber James Rudge, who is aiming for something huge. He's a GB athlete hoping to represent Great Britain at the Paralympics in LA 2028, doing paraclimbing. How cool is that! And as cool as that sounds, it also sounds pretty strenuous. So we're gonna learn all about it. Welcome, James, to the podcast. Welcome to Tilly Talks Tech. Thank you for taking the time to sit down with me. You're in a very exotic place. How are you doing?

SPEAKER_01 1:41

I'm very well, thank you. Yeah.

SPEAKER_00 1:42

James, you have been on one hell of a journey, and this journey is still ongoing, but I want to hit you first and foremost with, you know, LA 2028 paraclimbing is gonna be an official Paralympic sport, and that is your sport. How do you feel about that?

SPEAKER_01 2:00

Uh lots of feelings, um, certainly excitement. Uh it comes with a lot of um anticipation as well. But yeah, it's super exciting to um to get that news last year, and now obviously my goal along with many others is to to get my ticket to to be out there.

SPEAKER_00 2:18

It's so exciting, and also it's about time. Like, yeah, it's such a it's such a crazy sport. When did you decide that Paralympics was your goal? I know they've just decided they're gonna include it, so were you ever thinking maybe it could become a Paralympic sport and you could make it there?

SPEAKER_01 2:33

It was always an option. It was the decision of it, it went on for quite some time. I don't think we were ever really fully expecting it to happen for LA. We thought it'd be one of those things that would just continue on, but um yeah, my my dreams very much evolved as as that process has become real. So I was kind of before it was announced that it was going to be in Los Angeles, I was thinking about um taking a bit of a retirement and focusing on more of the community aspects and coaching, having committed sort of seven years on the international circuit um to kind of bail when that news got announced would be um would be wrong. So um I'm still standing, as they said.

SPEAKER_00 3:15

What the hell? Your life is like you were like waiting to settle down, and then all of a sudden it's like, no, I need to like get back in the gym. You don't get it. I heard that it's a very, very long process, but you are heading in the right direction, and you've been pre-selected. So talk to me about that. Like, how does that happen and what is the process to actually get to the Paralympics beyond that?

SPEAKER_01 3:37

So I was pre-selected for the GB team this year. It doesn't necessarily mean I'm pre-selected for LA because I still have to go through the um the qualification process to get to get out to to LA. Uh what it does mean is that um I'm on the Paralympic team for Great Britain this year and kind of draining towards that direction, but lots of hurdles are in my way before before we come to that. I've still got quite a few big competitions, and then there's the pathway that determines whether whether or not you actually get that um get that ticket.

SPEAKER_00 4:13

Yeah, and I watched a documentary that I saw that you posted about recently called Able.

SPEAKER_01 4:18

Yeah.

SPEAKER_00 4:18

And I've sat and watched that, it was wicked. It was so so so super cool. And that film is basically following you to Arco, Italy, to do that sort of like qualifying bit. Watching that, it was so exciting. But I feel like with that comes like a lot of nerves, it feels like a lot of pressure. And I think about like Olympic, Paralympic. I'm like, that just feels like such a foreign concept. Obviously, it's a bit closer to you, but the fact that you could be scaling a wall and it's like this is kind of make or break to see whether you know I can ultimately get it to get to LA in the future, I think that must be absolutely mental. So when it comes to training for the Paralympics, this is Tilly Talks Tech. So I want to learn about how the training is. Like, how are you training and does technology play a role in that at all? The training of a GB athlete?

SPEAKER_01 5:10

Yeah, so I think for climbing, it's really hard to incorporate uh technology into limb difference, but the training aspect, so when I'm down in the gym, I can certainly use prosthetics to incorporate the adaptive solutions that I need. So I'm very used to just creating adaptive solutions so that I can maintain good posture. Um, for example, if I'm doing pull-ups, I'll use like a um a band to wake my short arm off. Um, but certainly when I'm using the rowing machines, I've found it useful to use the um Open Bionics Hero flex arm.

SPEAKER_00 5:47

Oh yeah.

SPEAKER_01 5:49

That's so that's worked well for that. Um but yeah, the these kind of newer um forms of technology are are are only kind of making their way over to me, so it takes a bit of um getting used to as well from my part. But there's always little adaptive solutions that I can apply to um maximise that potential, you know, incorporating AI into my life by the day, so technology is um is definitely something that I use more and more.

SPEAKER_00 6:20

Is there anything this is just like this is me going off script because I'm actually just curious, but you know, because some prosthetics are like really weighty. Yeah, are there any like weight requirements or considerations for people who like maybe like their prosthetic legs is a is really weighty, or is it literally just like come in, choose if you're gonna wear a prosthetic or not, do what you want to do? Because I feel like if you were missing a leg, you'd be a lot lighter and you'd be able to pull yourself up a bit easier, right?

SPEAKER_01 6:46

Yeah, so for the legs guys, they're mainly using their prosthetics to weight and support their feet. Whereas if you're using a prosthetic for a hand, there'd be a lot of pull and you'd have to have a something that could take a really high load. Um, so the guys with leg amputations will just have like um one of those ball and sockets, and then they'll literally have like a foot on a plastic foot on the end, but put like a small climbing shoe on it. So they'll still use that as a fully functional climbing foot. Um, but the difference between how we use our our legs climbing and our hands climbing is quite substantially different. There's a lot of force that comes through like fingers and hands, and um feet is more about just weighting your support. So I think that's why it would take some really advanced technology to um to um simulate a hand on a climbing wall. I think it is being looked at because I've had some messages from people studying in various places trying to create a solution, but doesn't seem to have got anywhere just yet. The way I can see the most benefit out of technology is is in the gym for sure. And I see um I've done things like um obstacle course racing like Ninja Warrior and stuff like that, where you're swinging from bars and stuff, and I can see how prosthetics would be useful for stuff like that because you maintain really solid posture that way.

SPEAKER_00 8:07

Wait, James, how was Ninja Warrior though?

SPEAKER_01 8:11

Uh I did do the show, yeah. I did the show many, many a few years ago now, but um I took a very early bath. Um, it's lots of kind of uh upper body-based obstacles. I've I loved it, it was great fun and it's um amazing kind of experience, but um it was very, very hard, yeah.

SPEAKER_00 8:33

Yeah, why not? You know, some people just some people go for their morning jog and some people just take on Ninja Warrior, you know. What are you thinking about when you're scaling these walls? I know you gotta think about like technically what you're doing, but is that like prevalent or are you really like zoned in?

SPEAKER_01 8:53

Yeah, you're very you're very much zoned in, but because the route is there in front of you and you have one attempt to climb as high as you can on that route, it's um super important that you really dial into your breathing, staying calm, having a think about how you're going to get to the top before you climb it. Um, so kind of that preparation is important, and then kind of the mental gain that comes with it. I think that's the most addictive part about competing is the the mental gains that come with it. It really puts all of your kind of um mental insecurities right out there in the um in the spotlight, so it's a great way to kind of work on yourself as well as work on your climbing.

SPEAKER_00 9:38

Yeah, you mentioned in the Abel documentary, which really struck with me that sometimes when you're on the wall, you feel like you're on a mission to like validate yourself, like being up there and like proving to yourself kind of that you can do it.

SPEAKER_01 9:51

Yeah, exactly. It's actually as you said, I think a lot of us um have been used to trying to prove other people wrong or even prove ourselves wrong and and challenge our bodies in different ways. Um so I think that's what I was kind of represented in in that line about validating myself. It's um a constant mission to prove to yourself that you're um that you're able, as the film's called, but also to prove to other people that this sport can be done by by anyone. And um you know, we you see that when you watch paraclimbing competitions as people with um minimal to no vision, people with no legs, one hand, everything getting to the top.

SPEAKER_00 10:32

That's crazy, isn't it?

SPEAKER_01 10:34

Yeah.

SPEAKER_00 10:34

So you didn't end up qualifying in that one in Italy. In that moment when you came down and you didn't end up qualifying, did you feel any sort of like what now? Did your did your like what was your mindset shift, if any, at all?

SPEAKER_01 10:49

Yeah, so the goal from any competition is to progress from the qualification stage into the finals. Um, and as you say, in that particular one in the film, I didn't make the finals, and it depends how you frame it. If you feel like you've given it absolutely everything, you've enjoyed yourself, there's only certain things you can there's there's always going to be um restrictions that prevent you from getting to the finals. It could be it could be that you came up against some stronger athletes, it could be that um it was just the way the field was on that day, but ultimately a lot of the time because we are only allowed to climb the routes once and we're so used to practicing and training on on routes multiple times, there's always a part of us that thinks we can do a little bit better when we come off. So it is pretty rare to to to come off and like be like, oh, I did absolutely everything I could there. And I had that feeling in South Korea in the world championships last year, where I came off with a smile on my face, um, feeling like I'd given it absolutely everything and enjoyed myself. And I'll say that was a very rare feeling and one to savour because I've done many international competitions and it doesn't happen often when you feel like that. So it's worth it when it does.

SPEAKER_00 12:08

Yeah, definitely. And I feel like when you grow up with a limb difference, like I don't know if you relate, but like for me that definitely morphed into like a crazy amount of perfectionism because it's just like I knew that if I did something wrong, you know, people blame what they can first see, and that's the fact that you're like missing limbs. And like simple, simple things. Like we're talking about scaling walls when it comes to you, but for me it was like holding a school tray, like getting your school dinner. Like, I know I can do that, but just just because you feel like you're under the microscope sometimes, like I'll be sat there shaking and nervous because I know that if it goes wrong, I know what people are gonna blame first.

SPEAKER_01 12:45

That's a really good point. Yeah, we're always trying to prove our our worth, not only to ourselves but to the world, aren't we? And um, yeah, I I I resonate with that.

SPEAKER_00 12:54

How did your perception of your own limits change early on in life? Did you experience anything that you realized, okay, no, I can push myself through this?

SPEAKER_01 13:03

I think physically I was always pretty well equipped to to tackle things face on. My dad very much brought me up with a kind of solutions rather than problems mindset. There was always little um contraptions and things he was making to make sure that there was always a way for me to um achieve certain tasks, whether that be um playing pool and him bending some metal together to what?

SPEAKER_00 13:27

You can play pool.

SPEAKER_01 13:29

I can play pool both handed, yeah.

SPEAKER_00 13:31

That's one thing that I've always really wanted to do and still haven't cracked.

SPEAKER_01 13:34

Yeah, yeah. No, you can easily rest it on either your short arm or or you can put your fingers over the cue. That'd be away, trust me.

SPEAKER_00 13:41

Yeah, we'll figure it out. Next time I see you, we'll figure that out.

SPEAKER_01 13:44

Yeah, it sounds like a plan. So uh physically there wasn't too many obstacles. Most of them I would find a way around, but it was it's the mental process, I think. When you realize that everyone's um a bit different to how you are, there's a real process, and um not only accepting that but embracing it as well. You get to the point now where I'm looking to give back to that next generation by doing these kind of um community-based initiatives and um representation is something I'm very passionate about.

SPEAKER_00 14:16

Looking at you in the documentary, sure you were doing your own journey of like being a GB athlete and training like that and going off to Italy or South Korea, like wherever you were, but you were also making sure to keep up, you know, these these lessons that you do for kids, right? To help them learn to climb, doing para climbing with them, and it was so so so sweet to see that exchange. Why is that so important to you? Like literally as important as it is to get to the Paralympics.

SPEAKER_01 14:44

Yeah, it's massive for me because I've been there and I've seen um that process, as I was just saying, with acceptance. And I don't think when I was younger, because uh there wasn't as much social media, maybe because there wasn't as much resource, and this is one of those benefits of social media, there also wasn't as much representation out there for me. So I don't know about you, but if if I'm learning a new sport, the first thing I'm doing is searching one-handed person doing this sport or something just to give myself some kind of idea that it's it gives me that first step. I I'll know it's possible, but it this really gives me that proof that it is. So if I knew that I could be that person to someone else, and um a couple of kids would would um be sent my way to kind of uh give them coaching, and I've now I've set up a charity, I've set up a social group for paraglimers to to it's just the safe space. None of us need none of us need to be around uh people like us, we just benefit from it, and um having people around you that are working off a similar mindset of creating those solutions to problems is just super beneficial, I think.

SPEAKER_00 16:03

No, that makes total sense, and it's really really exciting the fact that paraclimbing is being introduced in 2028 because you never know, like some of the kids you're training and talking to now, they could be the ones going up and doing paracliming.

SPEAKER_01 16:16

100%, yeah, for sure, for sure. And like in that film, there was that girl, um Matilda, who was just amazing, she was brought up, she brought up so well, she just loved loved her body, loved the way she was, and she loved climbing. And um, we did an event in Gloucester recently, which was like a paraclimbing competition. And one thing that we noticed that for climbers, um, there is a massive pathway for kids in into competitions for able-bodied, but there's nothing for parakids, there's nothing, and now that we're paralympic sport, as should be. So we started, we did our first kind of kids competition, um, and it was a massive success. And as you say, those could be the next Paralympic athletes.

SPEAKER_00 17:04

Yeah, that would be crazy. And as as you as kind of their like coach, how would that make you feel to see Matilda up there killing it?

SPEAKER_01 17:12

Yeah, of course it made me feel great. Yeah, I think regardless of um uh how the LA thing goes, I want to be I want to be kind of um part of it in some way, I want to be out there, so I'm gonna absolutely um give it my all to get out there as a competitor and make sure I enjoy the process as I do, but um regardless, I would like to be part of the journey in some form, so I'll be going out there regardless, I think. Umone else, then that's that's fine too.

SPEAKER_00 17:41

Well, to be honest, you're already doing that, like you've already paved the way. Like, I'm not gonna lie, I've never actually, you know what? I actually did do rock climbing one time. You know, one of those like field trips you do when you're at school and they take you out in the middle of the woods somewhere, and you're like, you have to try everything. I went into that trip thinking, oh my god, here we go. But rock climbing was actually you've like unlocked a memory for me because I've not thought about rock climbing like so long. But I actually love that. People seeing you, like you're already paving the way, just the knowledge that they can do it, you know what I mean? And by hosting these little group sessions and just hyping each other up, I feel like that is so so cool. And obviously, I'm rooting for you, and I believe we're gonna get to LA 28 as well. But I think that's great, like the fact that you could touch some like people who could in the future go on to do exactly what you're gonna do, and that is get to the Paralympics.

SPEAKER_01 18:36

That's it, yeah, absolutely. That's the plan.

SPEAKER_00 18:39

But James, the big question is are you gonna carry on with the training and persist in getting to Los Angeles in 2028? Is that the goal on the horizon?

SPEAKER_01 18:48

Absolutely, yeah. That's very much the goal. I'm locked in now. Um, next year will be the year that determines the qualification process. So that I think there's the world championships in in Czech Republic next year. Um, that'll be the big one that determines most people's um chances of getting through. So yeah, I'm very much I'm on a I'm on a training plan now for the season ahead. I've got a few competitions in the calendar already. Um no excuses now, really. Yeah, it's um it's it's locked in. So I really want to focus on enjoying the process though, and uh whilst that's very much the goal, I don't want to um determine the only outcome as getting to LA. I want to make sure the process of training to be a Paralympian is enjoyed as well.

SPEAKER_00 19:36

Yeah, you'll get there. You will get there. I have faith. And it just reminded me, actually, like the first guest that I interviewed on this podcast is called Professor Hugh Herr. I don't know if you've heard of him. He basically lost his legs in a climbing accident, and he then like went into studying how to rebuild his legs, and when he got back with his prosthetic legs, he said that he actually found climbing easier with the prosthetic legs. He mentioned like being able to make them really lightweight so he could pull himself up easier. I think he had one foot that was like the width of like a coin or something like that, so he could stand on those really skinny ledges, which actually gave him the one up. So it's really interesting to see how you know those worlds are coming together and the difference between missing a hand and missing a leg as well. I think that's a huge one.

SPEAKER_01 20:26

Yeah, for sure. And you you you always I think focus on what you do have rather than what you don't, and it's often the people that have been through the biggest kind of life changes that have the most motivation to do the most awesome things on the back of that.

SPEAKER_00 20:41

Period. It's so cool to see. That's why I love talking to people who've like actually been through something like that, because yeah, I feel like it's just a switch in your brain. You're like, okay, I need to just like hammer this home now. This is what we're dealing with, this is what we're gonna like literally slay with. And for you to get to LA in 2028 and potentially win a medal or something, what would that moment represent to you?

SPEAKER_01 21:03

That would be it'd be it would be massive, it would be kind of um something I never really until the last couple of years would even think was was possible. So just to be that kind of um representation for the next generation to to really kind of finish my finish my climbing journey on this well who's to say it's to finish, but um it would mean a lot. It would mean a lot, yeah.

SPEAKER_00 21:32

It would be so cool, and I know like so many people who would be here like cheering you on as well. That would be so epic. Is there anyone that you know that you're 100% getting a ticket for? Should you get there?

SPEAKER_01 21:43

Is anybody issuing like I think most of my close family and friends have already um in their head, they're already out there, but I'm I'm like I need to sort myself out first, then um, but it's obviously in Los Angeles, which uh is an appeal. Healing holiday for everyone. So the the climbing arena is on a place called Palm Beach and it looks incredible.

SPEAKER_00 22:06

So uh you're gonna be fighting off, fighting off all these people who are like coming out of the woodwork, like, hey James, remember me.

SPEAKER_01 22:12

Yeah, there's a lot of people already um already coming back into the climbing scene as maybe I need to get a picture of uh Palm Beach on um or Long Beach, whatever it's called, in Los Angeles on my um in my flat just to kind of uh remind me of the the dream each day.

SPEAKER_00 22:30

Yeah, get a little vision board going. How cool. Awesome, thank you so much, James. We're coming to the end now. I just have two quick fire questions for you, if that's alright. Are you ready?

SPEAKER_01 22:41

Okay, for it.

SPEAKER_00 22:42

Cool. So another one, I know you're gonna hate this because I know you're trying to like remain calm and chill and in the moment, but I'm curious, should you get to LA 2028? I think you will. Um, what's the first thing you would do in Paralympic Village? Have you looked into that? Because that seems to be a fun place.

SPEAKER_01 23:00

What's the first thing I would do in Paralympic Village?

SPEAKER_00 23:03

Yeah.

SPEAKER_01 23:04

Just as I arrive or after the competition, because that's two very different questions.

SPEAKER_00 23:08

Give me both.

SPEAKER_01 23:11

I don't know, actually. Like, I haven't really thought about it. Um, but to be honest with you, I think I would just would just enjoy the experience, um bumble around to see as many people as I can, just soak it all in and try and maybe that would help me stay calm. Um, but afterwards, after it's all finished, we'd definitely be um be uh celebrating in some form, I think. Having a party.

SPEAKER_00 23:33

It must be so cool because I mean there's just so many like-minded people there. Exactly. Yeah, and yeah, then afterwards, definitely like hit a couple bars.

SPEAKER_01 23:41

Yeah, exactly.

SPEAKER_00 23:43

Okay, and second question is what role do you think technology will play in the future? The future of sports, let's go there.

SPEAKER_01 23:49

I think it's got an increasingly big role to play in in the future of sport. Um, I mean, um I'm people are putting training plans into into AI now. Like, there's there's a real um access to information that we never saw capable before, but but it's only gonna get gonna get better, and um the work we can do in the gym can really be developed and and grown. I I don't think climb climbing seems to have been quite sheltered from technology. I don't really see much technological um developments in climbing, so it'd be interesting to see if there's any um in change in that. Um but in terms of information and how we learn from each other, I think that's the big big development that can take effect from all this.

SPEAKER_00 24:36

Yeah, super, super dee cool. Thank you so much, James. Like I said, I know you're trying to remain chill, I know you're trying to remain casual about it, but I am super excited and I'm gonna be cheering you on every step of the way. For anybody else who wants to follow your journey or maybe they want to sponsor you or whatever it is, where can we find you on social media?

SPEAKER_01 24:56

So at Rudge underscore paraclimbing. So R-U-D-G-E underscore paraclimbing.

SPEAKER_00 25:02

Awesome. Thank you so much, James, and I'll see you on the screen in 2028. Thanks, mate.

SPEAKER_01 25:08

Yeah, thank you. That's hope.

SPEAKER_00 25:09

Bye. Good luck with training. Oh bless them, he's so humble and here's me just feeling like, so what are you gonna do in Paralympic Village? It's like you gotta take one step at a time. I honestly don't even know how I'd be dealing with something like that big. Because it's not even something like big that happens to you. Like you put in the work and you get to the Olympics or Paralympics, and I feel like that is just such an accomplishment in itself. To even like back yourself that much to be showing up to training every day, every other day. It's it's a lot of work. But yeah, super cool and very timely episode, considering the Paralympics has just finished. I loved it so much. It's always so incredible to see those people just going at it, killing it, and I'm so happy that they're introducing more sports as well. Like, here's the LA 2028. I really hope you enjoyed this episode of Tilly Talks Tech. If you did, make sure to like, comment, and subscribe. Share if you like. Check out James, and if you know anybody who's really rich and wants to sponsor him, then send them his way. He deserves it. Thank you so much for listening, and I will see you next time. Bye.