8 Day Croatia Itinerary - Dubrovnik, Korčula, Hvar & Split

In this episode, Tyla takes you on an 8-day itinerary along Croatia's stunning Dalmatian Coast, from the walled city of Dubrovnik to the idyllic island escapes of Korčula and Hvar.

Croatia is one of those destinations where trip planning can quickly spiral into overwhelm. Not because it's a difficult country to visit, but because the ferries between islands run on limited schedules and getting the order wrong can cost you an entire day of your trip! 

So join Tyla, as she break down this route and shares all her top tips including how to experience Dubrovnik's Game of Thrones-famous Old Town without getting swallowed by cruise ship crowds, when to visit for the best weather and prices, plus why this trip works brilliantly without renting a car.

So grab a cup of coffee, get comfy, and prepare to escape to the walled cities, sandy coves and lush vineyards of Croatia's Dalmatian Coast!

In this episode, you'll learn…

• Why late May, early June or the second half of September are the smartest months to visit Croatia's Dalmatian Coast (and why the ferry schedules are important for timing your visit!)
• Where to stay in Dubrovnik if you'd rather skip the steep steps, loud noise and inflated prices of the Old Town
• Why waking up early and walking Dubrovnik's city walls at 8am is the single most important tip in this whole episode!
• Three ways to spend a free day in Dubrovnik, from sea kayaking past hidden caves to a peacock-filled island escape
• Why Korčula's Old Town is one of Croatia's most beautiful and genius historical sights
• Plus, the 400-year-old sword dance you can only see on Korčula!
• Why Hvar has a split personality as Croatia's answer to Mykonos and a sleepy island filled with stone villages and lavender fields 
• Whether you actually need a rental car for this trip (spoiler: NO!)
• Where and why to extend your trip if eight days along the Dalmatian Coast isn't enough

Places & Links Mentioned

• Custom Trip Planning Services
• Dubrovnik Cruise Ship Schedule 
• Dubrovnik Old Town - including the Stradun (main street), city walls, Onofrio's Fountain, the Rector's Palace and Fort Lovrijenac
• Mount Srđ Cable Car (for views over Dubrovnik)
• Lokrum Island (peacocks & monasteries) and Betina Cave (sea kayaking)
• Dubrovnik's beaches - Banje Beach (busy) and Sveti Jakov Beach (quiet)
• Korčula Old Town - St Mark's Cathedral and the Moreška sword dance
• Lumbarda village (Pošip and Grk wine tastings) and Vela Pržina Beach
• Hvar Old Town - St Stephen's Square and Fortica Fortress
• The Pakleni Islands - Palmižana and Jerolim
• Hvar's quieter side - Dubovica Beach, Sveta Nedjelja and Velo Grablje
• Diocletian's Palace (Split)
• Extend Trip - Plitvice Lakes National Park and Trogir

What's next?

✨ Book a Trip Consultation - let's start planning your dream trip to Europe! 

✨ Browse and download our collection of itineraries at travelwithtyla.com

✨ Follow on Instagram @travelwith.tyla for more Europe travel inspiration

✨ Subscribe so you never miss a future episode!

Transcript

SPEAKER_00 0:10

Imagine standing on a pale limestone wall high above the city. It's 8 o'clock in the morning, and as you look out across the horizon, you see a thousand terracotta rooftops tumbling down towards the sea where the water sparkles a brilliant turquoise blue. In the distance, you hear the hum of a coffee machine and see a woman hanging washing from her tiny balcony. A boathorn sound signalling the first fairy departures of the day as excited tourists set off to explore pine-covered islands and go swimming in sea caves. Fast forward to the evening, and you are now sitting on a warm stone with your feet dangling down towards the water. You watch the fishing boats gently bob as you reach for a glass of chilled white wine. The sun is slowly setting, and you hear the sound of children laughing nearby as they jump into the gentle atriatic waves. Life is good, life is unhurried, and you are here in this moment soaking it all in. Welcome to Croatia's stunning Dalmatian coast. Today we are exploring only a small part of Croatia because to cover the entire country would take several hour-long episodes. But I can confidently say that the trip we will be embarking on today is easily one of the most beautiful journeys you can take in Europe, and that's through Croatia's southern Dalmatian coastline and surrounding islands. Together, we'll be spending eight days spread across three very different bases. We'll start our adventures in Dubrovnik before hopping on a ferry to the island of Kortula, then onwards by boat to the island of Havav, and finally ending our trip in the lively harbor city of Split. Now I plan trips for a living, and Croatia is one of those places where I see a lot of people getting overwhelmed and confused during the trip planning process. Not because it's a particularly difficult country to visit, but because there are a lot of moving parts to coordinate, especially if you plan on visiting a couple of the islands. And that's because the ferries in Croatia operate on limited schedules, sometimes only departing once or twice per day. So doing your research in advance and mapping out your route is crucial to avoid losing an entire day of your trip to poor planning. So if this sounds familiar, please know that it's my goal by the end of this episode to simplify the whole process and break it down into manageable bite-sized pieces so you can feel confident to go ahead and start planning your very own trip to Croatia. I'll also be giving you the full rundown on Dubrovnik because while it is stunning, it is also one of the most crowded places in all of Europe, thanks mostly to the fact that the city was a key filming location for the TV series Game of Thrones. So I want to make sure you know exactly how to avoid the worst of it and make sure you come away from your time in Dubrovnik feeling like you got to see the very best of the city. Now, if you're still a little unsure as to whether this trip is right for you, I just want to let you know this eight-day itinerary has been designed for various types of travelers, from couples to solo travelers, families, and even groups of friends, all who enjoy swimming in crystal clear waters, wandering through old stone villages, and slowing down to savour the very best of Adriatic cuisine and wine. So if this sounds like your kind of Europe trip, then I suggest you grab a cup of coffee, get comfy, and prepare to escape to the walled cities, sandy coves, and lush vineyards of Croatia's Dalmatian coast. Okay, so before we jump into the day-by-day itinerary, I think it's important to discuss why Croatia is worth adding to your ever-growing list of dream trips to Europe. Well, for starters, Croatia's southern coastline is the remains of an empire, actually, several empires, all stacked on top of each other. The modern city of Dubrovnik spent centuries as its own independent republic, a tiny, ferociously clever merchant state that survived between the Ottomans and the Venetians by being very good at diplomacy and even better at paying people off. They had their own fleet and consulates all over the Mediterranean, they abolished the slave trade in 1416, and they built the now famous city walls, two kilometers of protection, because being small and rich in the 15th century was a dangerous combination. Meanwhile, Croatia's islands were under the rule of a foreign empire. The islands of Kortula and Harv were in fact Venetian for centuries, and you can see it instantly when you arrive. Notice the winged lions carved above doorways, the shapes of the windows, the little stone loggias, it's all very Venetian. Now it's important to know that Venice sought out these specific islands because of where they are located, right on their most important shipping lane through the Adriatic Sea. So for those of you interested in the often changing dynamics of European politics, the rise and fall of empires, plus the influence it has left on each place today, well, you are in for a real treat by visiting Croatia. And for those more interested in endless sunshine days spent swimming in the sea, well, Croatia's islands and coastline offer some of the most swimmable stretches of water on the planet. Dalmatian food is also something to look forward to. It's simple, but only because the ingredients are so fresh and so good that you really don't need to add very much. Imagine grilled fish with olive oil and lemon, black risotto colored with cuttlefish ink, as well as pika, which is a meat dish sometimes made with octopus that is cooked slowly under a heavy iron bell covered in embers. You'll have to order it in advance, but my gosh, it is delicious. Fresh oysters are also a staple here, and they pair amazingly with the many delicious Croatian wines that you've probably never even heard of. Remember, these islands were once part of the Venetian Empire, so naturally those cooking traditions have carried over and become a staple in the Dalmatian diet. So if I've already managed you c now, if I've already managed to convince you to start planning a trip to Croatia, the next obvious question is when is the best time to go? Well, since this itinerary focuses on coastal destinations and the islands, you should aim to plan your visit during the warmer months of April through to October. This is so you can enjoy the best weather and swimming temperatures, but also so you can easily navigate Croatia's ferry network. The catamarans that make this whole itinerary possible are very much seasonal, so visiting out of season is sure to create more logistical chaos. More specifically, my honest recommendation is to plan your trip for late May, early June, or the second half of September. It's worth noting that the sea is at its warmest in September as it has been heating up all summer. The crowds have also thinned out and prices overall are considerably lower. That being said, May and early June give you an abundance of wildflowers, green hillsides, and even lavender starting to bloom on some of the islands. It's also cooler and there is an excited energy in the air as it feels like everything is alive and waking up after a long winter. July and August are gorgeous, but they are also incredibly hot, regularly above 30 degrees Celsius, so that's above 86 degrees Fahrenheit, and Dubrovnik in particular gets unbelievably crowded. Accommodation prices can also double in some places as it feels like all of Europe is on summer vacation, and the Dalmatian coast is a very popular beach destination, especially for northern Europeans looking to soak in the sun and stunning sea views. The ferries are also known to sell out during peak tourist periods, so I suggest once you've locked in your dates and accommodation, the next thing to do is secure your ferry tickets. Now, if July or August are your only options, then you should absolutely go, but be prepared to get up early every single day to make the most of it and to avoid the worst of the summer crowds. One more thing that is important to mention is that this itinerary is entirely car free. Surprisingly, you really don't need a car to travel around Croatia thanks to its excellent network of local ferries and buses. Renting a car does, of course, have its benefits for exploring more remote off-the-beaten path places, especially on the islands, but it's also a liability when staying in cities like Split and Dubrovnik, where parking is both limited and expensive. Plus, there are far fewer car ferries than there are passenger ferries. Now I know I've shared a lot of information already, and I do apologize if it feels overwhelming. That is never my intention. I always want to simplify things as much as possible. So please take a breath because over the next eight days, we'll be splitting our time between three destinations, starting with three nights in Dubrovnik, followed by two nights on the island of Kortula, another two nights on the island of Havar, and finally ending by arriving in Split on the last day. So without delaying any longer, let's jump into the day-by-day itinerary. Welcome to day one and your long-awaited arrival in Dubrovnik, Croatia's most southern city and arguably the jewel in its Dalmatian coast crown. Most visitors will start their trip by arriving at Dubrovnik Airport, which is located in a village just 20 kilometers south of the city, so not exactly close, but there are several options to help you reach the old town center. The easiest way, and what most people tend to do, is catch the airport shuttle bus, which runs frequently and takes around 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic conditions. Now a one-way ticket is 10 euros, and you can either buy it online in advance from the airport terminal kiosk or even last minute from the driver on board. But if there are several flights arriving at once, the bus fills up quickly, so you may have to wait around for a while if you do not sort your tickets in advance. Importantly, the bus makes two stops in Dubrovnik. The first stop is right by the entrance to the old town, and the second stop is in Grutz, which is close to the city's central bus station and main ferry terminal. My top tip is to check Google Maps and hop off at the stop closest to your accommodation so you can avoid dragging your luggage across town because while it may look small on the map, Dubrovnik is actually quite spread out, and the old town is riddled with cobblestone streets and steep staircases. Of course, if you are traveling in a group of three or more people plus luggage, then the more comfortable and sometimes cheaper alternative is to take an Uber or a bolt, which costs roughly between 25 to 35 euros to reach the old town of Dubrovnik. The added benefit is they will get you much closer to your accommodation than the bus, which also removes the need for extra walking. Now the next question is where should you stay? And this is a really important decision in Dubrovnik, more so than most other cities, because I understand the appeal of waking up inside a UNESCO World Heritage site with a view of those famous city walls. But if I'm being completely honest, the old town is a pedestrian-only area, meaning there are no cars allowed, so you'll for sure be wheeling your suitcase over cobblestones and up several flights of stairs. Plus, it gets very crowded and noisy in the summer, which means you'll end up paying a premium for the privilege of poor sleep. My honest suggestion for most people is to look for accommodations in the area just to the east of Ploche City Gate. This is where I've personally stayed several times, and in my experience, it's the ideal location. You're only 5 to 10 minutes' walk from the old town, it's noticeably quieter, and it's also fortunately very close to the first stop for the airport bus, which means minimal walking to your accommodation. Plus, the views here are arguably better as they look back towards the old town, and your tourist dollars will go much, much further here. There's also a free beach nearby which offers the perfect early morning or refreshing afternoon dip in turquoise seas. Right, so you've made it to Dubrovnik, found your accommodation, and taken a moment to get yourself settled. Travel days are always tiring, so do yourself a favor and don't try to pack too much into this first afternoon. We'll save the real sightseeing for tomorrow, so for today, I just want you to wander around the old town and soak it all in. Start by making your way to the old town. Ploche Gate is the eastern entrance that I just mentioned, Boozer Gate is the northern entrance, and Pile Gate is the western entrance. Choose the one closest to your accommodation and begin exploring Dubrovnik's maze-like Old Town. Before you enter, make sure to stop and notice the impressive stone walls that tower above you. And also remember to look down as you're standing on what was once the drawbridge which kept out unwanted visitors. The medieval moat is long gone, but you can still see traces and imagine where it once was. Now Dubrovnik's Old Town is one of my all-time favorite old towns in all of Europe. It's pretty spectacular, and when you go there, you'll realize it too. But that is to say, it's wonderful except when it's filled to the brim with day passengers from docking cruise ships. For this reason, one of my top tips is to check the Dubrovnik cruise ship timetable before you even think about booking your trip. This information is available online, and I'll make sure to add the link in the show notes because knowing this can honestly make or break your trip. Even in the height of summer, there are days when no cruise ships are in town, so exploring the city feels busy but not overwhelming, compared to the days when three or even sometimes four ships are docking at the same time and you feel like you are being crushed in a human stampede. From the map, Dubrovnik Old Town looks pretty compact, but believe me, you can still rack up 20,000 plus steps per day easily just by exploring all the little side streets, alleyways, and darting up staircases that don't really lead to anywhere. It's also easy to get lost, but you'll always get your bearings again when you run into that giant medieval city wall, the cute harbour where you can watch the boats coming and going, or the wide main pedestrian street called Stradun. This 300 meter straight promenade of white limestone that's been polished by centuries of traders and tourists walking on it is a difficult sight to miss. Now, if you're thinking, wow, this doesn't look medieval at all, it's too uniformed and cohesive, well, you are correct because the Straton was actually rebuilt following a catastrophic earthquake that levelled much of Dubrovnik in 1667. So when they began rebuilding, the Republic mandated a single architectural style, which meant it had to be the same doorways, the same windows, same shopfronts all the way down the street. In fact, it was one of Europe's earliest examples of city planning by decree. A walk along this wide street offers up several hidden sites, including Onofrio's Fountain, which is located at the very start of the street closest to Pile Gate. This great domed fountain was built in the 1430s as the endpoint of an aqueduct that carried fresh water over 12 kilometers into the city. Then, when you're ready to continue exploring, I highly recommend getting away from the Stratton. 90% of visitors to Dubrovnik never leave the main drag, and honestly, they're really missing out. Simply turn up any of the side alleys pointing north, and the crowds almost completely evaporate. Notice how these streets climb steeply into stepped lanes. This is where the few remaining locals of Dubrovnik still live, and if you look closely, you'll be able to spot washing lines hanging from windows that crisscross the alleyways, cats sunbaking on the stone steps, and old ladies sitting in plastic chairs enjoying their afternoon ritual of gossiping. This is a rare sight these days, as only 1,500 local residents still live in the old town, a significant drop from the 5,000 who recorded living here in 1991. There are many contributing factors for this mass exodus, but the main one being the rapid growth in tourism, which has allowed landlords to earn significantly more from short-term rentals like Airbnb. So to put it simply, long-term residents have been priced out of the old town, and on top of that, the crowds and constant noise have made it a less ideal place to live, so many locals prefer to move outside the old town where you can enjoy more space and better work opportunities. Now I'm sure after all this walking, you've probably built up an appetite. So for dinner tonight, I want to steer you away from the main streets of the old town again. And when it comes to picking a restaurant, I know I've said this multiple times across various podcast episodes, but it is important. So please listen up. Do not, under any circumstance, eat anywhere that has large photos of their food printed out and on display. Also, avoid menus written in five languages, and if someone is standing outside the door trying to invite you in, well, that's a clear sign to run in the other direction. These types of places exist purely to catch out tired and hungry tourists, and they'll almost always overcharge you for a subpar meal at best. I know for me, food is a really important part of any trip to Europe, and with such limited vacation time, you don't want to waste any of it eating a average or even horrible meal. So, for a delicious meal that's memorable for all the right reasons, I want you to make your way into the smaller back streets and look for a restaurant with only a few tables, preferably a small menu and bonus points if the daily specials are written in chalk on a blackboard. Then for your meal tonight, choose between ordering Shini Risot, which is black risotto made with cuttlefish ink, or perhaps go with a grilled fish sold by the Kilo. You'll walk home through the old town, which is lit up by street lamps and glows golden in the night. Now it may not be to everyone's liking, but I'm gonna need you to set an early alarm this morning because the single most important piece of advice I can share with you for planning a trip to Dubrovnik is to wake up at sunrise and walk the city walls before any of the shops open and especially before the cruise ships and day trippers arrive en masse. Take a wander along the waterfront and enjoy the cool morning sea breeze. Then step into a quiet cafe and sip your coffee slowly. In summer, the city's iconic stone walls open at 8 am sharp, so if it's something you want to tick off, then I suggest getting there at least 10 to 15 minutes before. Now to do this, you should 100% purchase tickets online in advance. Adult tickets currently cost 40 euros, which is not cheap, but if it's something on your Croatia bucket list, then absolutely go ahead and book it. Your ticket is valid for entry at any time during opening hours on the day you select, and it also includes access to Fort Lovryanak, which is a separate fortress located on the rock just west of the city. And you have a few days to use it, so please don't feel like you have to do everything in one morning. But I do recommend prioritize heading there sometime during your visit, as the fortress offers some of the best views of the old town walls descending straight into the sea. Now, my main reason for being among the first in line to climb the walls is so you can avoid the worst of the mid morning crowds. Plus, if you're visiting In summer, there is very little shade and the walls become a horrible sun trap. Imagine two kilometers of stone walkways, which are mostly narrow, lots of uneven stairs, which should in theory only take 90 minutes to complete. Yet if you go at midday in July, it's more like two hours of slow, torturing shuffling and misery. Going at eight in the morning is the only option, and it also allows you to enjoy the cooler morning temperatures, the softer light, which is better for taking photos anyway. Another thing to make note of is that there's actually three official entrances to access the walls, with the most popular and most busy being at Pile Gate. Personally, I prefer to enter from St. John's Fortress, which is located at the far end of the harbour and next to the Maritime Museum. Using this entrance allows you to enjoy a continuous walk around the walls without the need to double back. Plus, it's significantly quieter and therefore you'll be able to enjoy sections of the seawall all to yourself before meeting up with the crowds closer to Pile Gate. So to reach the start of the walkway, you'll first have to climb up several flights of stairs and eventually be greeted by uninterrupted views of the Adriatic Sea. On your left, you'll also notice the green outline of Lochram Island. Then, as you turn around, you'll be looking down into the harbor and a maze of city streets below. The pathway does widen in places where you can stop and take photos, but please don't be the person who pauses in the middle of the steps and holds everyone else up. There is no time limit on this experience, so if you want to slow down and soak in the views for longer, simply step to the side when there is space and let others pass you by. Then, as you continue walking around the walls, you'll eventually pass Minchenta Tower, which is located in the far northwest corner of the city. It's also the highest point on the walls and offers spectacular views back towards the city and the turquoise water beyond. The Great Round Fortress may also seem familiar to fans of Game of Thrones as it featured as the set for the show's House of the Undying. In fact, a lot of King's Landing was also filmed in Dubrovnik and is a major part of the city's rising popularity among tourists. To keep the day flowing, you'll want to aim to be down from the walls by around 10am, just when everyone else is getting ready to go up, so you can feel good about waking up early knowing that you've skipped the worst of the crowds, plus you've still got a full day ahead of you. Now for a slower middle of the day, you can continue sightseeing by heading to the Rector's Palace, which is a Gothic Renaissance building located at the eastern end of the Straton. This building acted as the seat of government during the Ragusan Republic, and the Rector, which is the term used to describe their head of state, could only serve a term of exactly one month, and during that month they were essentially confined to the palace and couldn't leave without permission from the council. The whole system was built around a paranoia of any one person accumulating too much power. There is also a peaceful courtyard that you can explore, plenty of stately rooms, and even the old basement prison cells. But for those who are not interested in museums, then a wander around the old town, stepping inside various churches, popping into souvenir shops and coffee bars is also a wonderful way to pass the morning. Then for lunch, you'll want to find somewhere a little low-key, maybe a simple door with no sign that's tucked down a side street. And then, come the afternoon, it's time to get high. And by that I mean taking the cable car up nearby Mount Surge. The station is located just outside the city's northern walls near Ploche Gate, and it takes you over 400 metres up the hill that overlooks the city. You should expect to pay around 30 euros for a return ticket, otherwise, the free version is a steep hour-long uphill hike. It's actually quite enjoyable in the cooler months of spring and autumn, but in the middle of summer it's quite the workout. From the top, you'll be able to enjoy spectacular views of the entire walled city laid out below, and with the Adriatic Sea sparkling in the distance. It's also an epic spot to watch the sunset as it faces west, but make sure to check the cable car schedule so you don't miss the last one down. For those who have a little more time, it's also worth checking out the nearby Imperial Fort, which was built by Napoleon's forces in 1806, and also housed Croatian defenders during the 1991 siege of the city. And for those seeking an adrenaline rush, well, there is also a zipline and a skybike, which is exactly what it sounds like. A bike attached to a wire that you can ride in the air. Both are cool experiences in their own right, but with the view of Dubrovnik Old Town in the background, it's even more memorable. And if you make it back down the hill early, then a sunset swim in the sea is one experience I highly encourage you to never skip. As I mentioned earlier, there are several public beaches and swimming spots located within walking distance of the old town, so you're really spoilt for choice. For dinner tonight, you can return to the old town or try somewhere new outside the city walls in the LaPade or Groots neighborhoods, where you'll find better prices and lots of It's the start of day three, and this is perhaps my favorite day of the whole itinerary, because today you get to choose your own Dubrovnik adventure. So you've ticked off the walls, you've been inside the palace, and maybe you've also gone up the hill for sunset. You've successfully done the tourist things, which means it's time to dig a little deeper and explore somewhere new. Beginning with option number one, Lochram Island. This is the small forested island you've been looking at for the last two days, and it's only 15 minutes from the mainland. Boats leave from the old port every half hour or so in the summer months, and an adult ticket is around 30 euros, which covers your return crossing and entry to the nature reserve on the island. When you arrive, you'll be greeted by dozens of peacocks, all descended from the birds brought over by an Austrian archduke in the 1800s. There's also a ruined Benedictine monastery with a botanical garden, a tiny saltwater lake that's perfect for a lazy afternoon swim, and a hilltop Napoleonic fort with gorgeous views over the island and back towards the old town of Dubrovnik. Game of Thrones fans will also be delighted to find an actual Iron Throne inside the monastery, which was a gift from the show's production team after they finished filming. Now, a quick tip for comfortable swimming: watershoes are a really good idea not only here on the island but in Croatia, everywhere, because a lot of the beaches are rocky and pebbly. Now you can easily spend an entire day exploring and relaxing on the island, but make sure to catch the last fairy back as no one is permitted to stay on the island overnight. Option number two for today's adventure is a little more physical, and that's because it's sea kayaking. This is the one that I would personally pick as it allows you to get up close and personal to the city walls and explore hidden sea caves that are only accessible from the water. Most tours leave from the little beach called Pile Bay and last between two to three hours. You'll be given all the gear and some quick safety instructions from your guide, then it's onto the water to start exploring. You'll start by paddling out under the walls and seeing the city from an entirely new perspective. Then you'll round the point towards Betina Cave, where you'll be able to swim, snorkel, and even cliff jump before paddling back. A sunrise or sunset tour is extra special as you can enjoy the sky, sea, and city changing colour from yellow to orange, pink, and eventually purple. Your third and final option for today is to head to the beach and enjoy the simplicity of doing absolutely nothing. Bagnier is the most famous beach and is located east of the old town with postcard perfect views back towards the harbour. But while it is lovely to look at and is perfect for a quick dip, it's not a very relaxing beach. The free beach is often packed during the day and the nearby beach club blasts loud music at all hours. So for a more peaceful beach experience, I highly encourage you to walk just 20 minutes further along the coast to reach Svetijakov. You'll then need to follow a long flight of steps down towards the water. And trust me, you'll be glad you did because you'll be greeted by a beautiful, pristine, quiet beach that is so idyllic and so different to the one I mentioned earlier. Then, upon your return to Dubrovnik in the evening, I highly recommend spending your final night with a drink in hand watching the sunset from one of the old town bars that overlooks the water. Take the time to savour the moment and enjoy that vacation feeling. It might be time to say goodbye to Dubrovnik, but thankfully your Croatia adventures are only just beginning. It's officially day four, and that means it's time to move on to our next destination. So how are we getting there, you might be asking? Well, the answer is by ferry. Now there are usually four ferries a day in the summer months that go north from Dubrovnik to the island of Kortula, but only one departs in the morning at 8 a.m. So for those wanting to make the most of their time on the island, I recommend booking the morning ferry or risk arriving much later in the day. The journey takes just two hours, and you should definitely book your ferry tickets in advance as ferries following this particular route are known to sell out in peak periods. Also, it's worth noting that the ferries run daily from April 1st through to October 31st, but less frequently during the low season. So if you are traveling outside of this time period, then you'll need to do your own research to find available alternative routes. Now, all the major ferries from Dubrovnik depart from the port in Groots, so if you are staying close to the old town, it's going to be about a 15 to 20 minute Uber or taxi to get there. I also recommend arriving at least 30 minutes before the scheduled departure time so that you have the time to find your ferry and begin boarding. And if you can, grab a seat on the right hand side of the ferry close to a window, as the views up the peninsula and coastline is absolutely gorgeous. When you finally arrive on Kortula, you'll be amazed by the island's smaller yet equally charming old town. Like Dubrovnik, Kortula's old town juts out on a tiny peninsula and is entirely surrounded by walls, packed with palestone houses and a tall bell tower. But unlike Dubrovnik, the old town here is the ideal place to stay as it is both walking distance from the ferry port and it's incredibly calm. The only thing to be aware of is that most of these buildings don't have any elevators, so if you're traveling with heavy luggage or you struggle with stairs, I suggest looking for ground floor apartments or even just outside the old town where the buildings are newer and more likely to have an elevator. Once you've settled into your accommodation, it's time to go outside and explore the town. Something unique to Cortula is its herringbone layout. From above, it looks like a fish skeleton with one main spine running up the middle of the peninsula and side streets branching out. Now the fascinating part is that this was very much deliberate as the streets on the eastern side are straight in order to funnel the cool summer breeze through the town. While the streets on the western side are purposefully curved to block the cold winter wind, which they call the Buddha. So take a walk around the old town and see if you can notice the comings and goings of that cool sea breeze. In the centre, you'll also find St. Mark's Cathedral, which has a bell tower that you can climb. The staircase to the top is very tight, but the views over the terracotta rooftops and out towards the mainland mountains is worth every single step. And fun fact, Cortula also claims to be the birthplace of the famous Venetian explorer Marco Polo. Although this is a highly contested fact with little supporting evidence. You see, at the time Cortula was under Venetian rule and there was a Polo family that lived here. Yet most historians still consider his birthplace to be in Venice. For the remainder of the afternoon and into the early evening, you can continue exploring the old town, take a dip in the sea, or for something unique, seek out a cocktail bar built into the top of a medieval defensive tower. To get to this bar, you'll need to climb a ladder and squeeze through a hatch in the floor. Then, after ordering, your drinks will arrive by being winched up on a pulley system, a quirky and fun sight to see. My only tip is to get there early as there are only 15 seats in total and it's easily the best sunset spot in the entire town. Tonight's dinner should be enjoyed at a waterfront restaurant where the tables sit right on the edge with the water lapping mere centimeters below. And if Zanovsky makaruni is on the menu, then you simply have to order it. This delicious handroll pasta comes from the neighbouring village of Czarnavo and is traditionally served with a slow-cooked beef sauce. Delicious. Ooh, and one more thing to check off before the night ends, and that's seeing the Moresca. This is Cortula's traditional sword dance, unique to the island and performed nowhere else on Earth. It's been going strong for the last 400 years, and the premise is that two kings, one dressed in red and one dressed in black, fight a stylized duel over a kidnapped princess, with real swords and to live music performed by a brass band. These performances typically run from late April through to mid-October and take place at 9pm at the open-air summer theatre located just outside the old town. It is a ticketed event and is only on a couple nights each week, so make sure to check out the schedule and purchase tickets before you arrive. It's honestly a very unique experience and great way to get a taste for the island's culture. Starting with the wine. And the second type is called Grok and is grown almost exclusively in the sandy soils that surround only one village on the entire island called Lumbada. The name Grok means Greek, and the story goes that the vines arrived with the Greek settlers who founded a colony here in the 3rd century BC. And for a few tasting notes, you can expect a crisp, citrusy flavour with a slightly bitter aftertaste. So for a fun, wine-focused day on the island, I highly recommend making your way to that exact village for some tastings and wanderings. Nalumbada is about 5 or 6 kilometers from Korchula Old Town, and there are three different ways of getting there. So for those wanting a physical challenge, you can rent a bike for around €25 a day and ride there, but be warned there are a couple of steepish hills and you'll have to ride on the road in some places. Of course, if that doesn't fit your travel style, then a water taxi might be the better option, which runs roughly every half hour in peak season and drops you off a short walk from several of the local wineries. It's also by far the most scenic option. And finally, for an economic and somewhat efficient trip, the local bus will get you there in just over 20 minutes. Once you arrive in Lumbada, you'll find wineries dotted around the village, so it's very walkable and very easy to visit three or even four wineries in an afternoon. A tasting costs between 25 to 40 euros and includes several glasses of wine plus some local cheeses and olives. Now my advice to avoid disappointment is to message the wineries you want to visit in advance, especially in the shoulder seasons, because some of the smaller family-run wineries may not be open every day. Especially in the shoulder seasons. Because some of the smaller family-run wineries may not be open. Then, once you've had your fill of local wine and since you're already in Lumbada, I highly recommend walking just 20 minutes to reach Vela Pritsina. This is one of the few sandy beaches in Croatia where the water is warm and shallow. It's also a lovely spot to spend a few relaxing hours after several wine tastings. Of course, for the less independent traveller, there are also guided tours and organized experiences on the island which allow you to simply show up and enjoy. From boat tours to buggy safaris, wine tastings, and sunset kayak tours. I'm confident you'll be able to find the perfect experience to suit your travel style. Then for your final evening on Cortula, I suggest taking a walk along the western sea walls at Golden Hour. The stone glows yellow and the bell tower chimes to inform you it's time to find somewhere to eat. Fresh seafood is always my go-to by the seaside, and of course you must pair it with a glass of the local wine. Perhaps you'll even recognize the name of the bottle as one of the wineries you visited earlier today. There are usually between four to six ferries each day with one early morning, one mid-morning, and the rest are afternoon or early evening ferries. I recommend choosing a departure time that suits you, and again, make sure to book your ferry ticket online in advance. Also, it's worth noting that Kourchula and Havar are scheduled stops on the longer Dubrovnik to split ferry route, meaning they usually only allow for a 10-minute disembarking and boarding window. So make sure you're waiting ready to go at the port when your ferry arrives. Okay, so Havar does have a bit of a reputation for being Croatia's party island, which means lots of charter yachts, late night crowds, and expensive cocktails. It's essentially the mykinos of Croatia and can be a lot of fun for those wanting to join in the celebrations. But thankfully, it's also contained to about 300 meters of waterfront. So all you have to do is step two streets back or wander 10 minutes down the coast, and you'll find yourself on one of the most beautiful, agricultural, sleepy islands in all of the Adriatic. Imagine lavender fields, olive terraces, stone villages, and empty coves. Both sides of the island coexist, so you can really curate your own experience. Now, just so you are aware, it's illegal to walk through Havar's historic town in only your swimwear. So wearing just a bikini, swim trunks, or even going shirtless outside of designated beach areas can result in on-the-spot fines up to 600 euros. So my tip is to always take a shirt or dress that you can slip on easily after swimming, and you'll avoid those hefty fines. Now, getting back to the itinerary, you've arrived on the island and it's time to check into your accommodation. So let's talk about where you should stay. Havar town itself is a convenient, beautiful, and lively base which allows you to walk almost everywhere. But if you're after a quieter town, make sure to check out Starigrad. Located on the north side of the island, it's both older karma and just as lovely as old town Havar. Yelsa is another great choice that's a little further along the north coast and is a gorgeous little town where Croatian families love to holiday. Both of these villages are accessible from Havar by taxi, water taxi, local bus, or even scooter rental. But to keep things simple and easy to follow, we're going to continue this itinerary as if you were staying in the old town of Havar. So after taking some time to settle into your accommodation, I suggest using this first afternoon to explore Havar Old Town. The centerpiece is St. Stephen's Square, which is the largest in all of Dalmatia and a hub for gatherers. It opens onto the harbour at one end and with the cathedral standing tall at the other. By late afternoon, and if it's not too hot, I highly recommend climbing up to the Fotica, which is an impressive fortress that sits on the hill just above the town. It's a steep walk up a winding path that is lined with rosemary and pine. You'll want to give yourself at least 20 to 30 minutes to get there, allowing ample time to stop and admire the view whilst you catch your breath. Now it does cost 12 euros to go inside the fortress, which has the best views, but there are also several free spots dotted around the fortress that still offer lovely views of the old town. Now the fortress closes at 7pm, and in the summer months, sunset is typically after 8pm, so you can time your visit depending on your interests. And for those who head back down to the town early, well, sunset drinks by the harbour is also a fabulous idea. Remember how I said Havar is a party town? Well, you've got endless options to choose from when it comes to beachfront bars, from the loud, energetic bars built on top of the rocks near Hula Hula Beach to the quieter terraces found near the Franciscan monastery located at the end of Havar Bay. Trust me, there is a seafront bar to suit every type of traveller. Come dinner time, this is when it's best to get away from the harbour front. You see, water views often translate to higher price tags. So as to avoid overpaying for a mediocre meal, we're going to venture just a couple lanes behind the square, where the restaurants are smaller and the food is way better. Search the menu for Gregada. It's a Havar specialty, like a fisherman's stew made of white fish potatoes, onion, olive oil, and white wine, all cooked together in one pot. It's delicious and the perfect way to end your first night in Havar. Welcome to day seven, and you've got a full day ahead on the island where you get to choose how to spend it. Option number one is the classic choice, and that's exploring the nearby Pakleni Islands. Taxi boats run constantly from Havar Town Harbour during the main tourist season, and the return trip to the villages of Palmizana or Yerolim costs roughly 10 to 15 euros per person. It's actually quite an easy day trip as you simply walk down to the harbour, find a boat with a sign for the island you want to go to, pay and jump aboard. Now Palmizana is the one I'd personally send you to. It's on the far side of Sveti Clement, which is the largest of the Pakaleni Islands, and it has a lot on offer. From a sandy bottom bay to a lively marina and even a botanical garden. While here, you can swim, eat lunch under the pine trees, and just take some time to really relax. Between all the sightseeing and exploring, a trip to Croatia is simply not complete without some quality beach and chill time. The second island I mentioned is called Yarolim and is closer by boat to Havar. It's also smaller and a little more low-key, but just beware that the beaches here are clothing optional. Now, option number two for today's outing is to head to Dubovica Beach, where you'll find a postcard perfect crescent-shaped pebble beach and just a handful of old stone houses. The beach is located about 8 kilometers east of Havar Town on the south coast and is easily accessible by scooter, taxi, or even the local bus. So its remoteness is also what makes it special. So naturally, you'll need to walk down a steep path for about 10 to 15 minutes to actually reach the beach. But thankfully, that walk is also why it remains a quiet and oh so beautiful hidden gem. The water here is insanely blue, and there is only one restaurant and one beach bar, meaning there are very few decisions to be made today apart from should I order another cocktail, which fresh seafood dish will I have for lunch, and should I go for another swim? Ah yes, these are the decisions I want to be making on vacation. And lastly, option number three is to leave the turquoise coastline behind in favor of doing what almost nobody else does, and that's exploring the island's interior. So for those who have had enough of the sea sultan sun throughout their trip, I highly encourage you to go inland. You can do this by renting a car or scooter and by organized day trip, where they'll pick you up in Havar Old Town and guide you around for the entire day. Like Kortula, Havar also produces some of Croatia's best wines. And here it's the reds that really stand out. The village of Sveta Nalya on the south coast is one of the best places to stop for your first taste of Havar Island wine. Here the vines grow on terraces so steep they have to be worked entirely by hand, and they often drop straight into the turquoise sea. It's a dramatic and beautiful sight to see. So pick a winery or two and settle in for a tasting and lunch overlooking the vineyards. And for those seeking something floral, well make sure to plan a stop at Velo Grabie. This almost abandoned stone village, tucked away in the hills, was once the center of Havar's lavender industry, supplying a serious portion of the world's lavender oil in the 20th century, until wildfires and a declining population caused its collapse. Today only a handful of residents remain in the village, and the lavender still grows wild across the hillsides. Plus, if you plan your visit for June, well that's when you can see it in full bloom, and the smell is extraordinary. Now, I hope one of these options I've mentioned sounds interesting to you. Some people might be looking to fully disconnect from the busyness of life by relaxing on a beach, while others want to fill their days with sightseeing, history, and exploring. The truth is there's no right or wrong answer, only that whatever you choose, it's got to be the right style of trip for you. And for your final evening in Havar, I suggest you sit down at a cute family-run restaurant and order the freshest fish grilled with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. Pair this with a glass of local wine, and why not end with a shot of homemade rakia? It's a very strong alcohol, but in my opinion, the perfect way to cheers and celebrate a rather fabulous week exploring along the stunning Dalmatian coast. Well, it's officially day 8, and that means it's our final day of the trip. Today's goal is to make it from Havar to Split, a stunning coastal city back on the mainland where we will conclude this itinerary. Now the Havar to Split ferry route is one of the busiest in all of Croatia, with upwards of a dozen crossings a day in high season. Most crossings take between 50 to 60 minutes on the fast catamarans, and departures from Havar Old Town start in the early morning and go until late. Choosing your ferry really comes down to your onward travel plans. For those with an afternoon flight booked out of Split Airport, you'll need to take one of the earlier ferries. But for those looking to spend a night or two in Split, well you can easily spend a full lazy beach day in Havar before taking one of the afternoon or even evening ferries. One thing I will mention is that the fast catamarans do get cancelled during strong winds and occasionally at the last minute. So if you have a flight to catch and you're worried about last minute cancellations, I recommend booking the car ferry instead. Now they do only depart from the village of Starigrad and they are definitely slower, but you can trust they will run in almost all types of weather. Also, building in buffer time is always a good idea on travel days especially, whether that's by leaving a couple hours earlier than needed or opting to spend a night in Split before you fly out. Speaking of, once you arrive in Split, the ferryport is only a 10-minute walk from the old town. So if you're not leaving until the evening or you are staying overnight, here are some ideas of what you can do to fill your day. First off, there is luggage storage at the ferryport and the neighbouring bus station. So make sure to drop your bags and enjoy exploring hands-free. Now, Split's most famous site is without a doubt Diocletian's Palace. And I want to explain what it actually is, because Palace gives an entirely wrong impression. You see, around 1700 years ago, the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who was actually born nearby, rose from nothing to rule the entire empire, and then did the almost unheard of thing by voluntarily retiring. Following this, he built himself an enormous fortified retirement compound right at the entrance to the Bay of Castella. So it's part palace and part military garrison that's roughly 30,000 square meters in total. And then as time went on, the Empire eventually fell. So a few centuries later, when refugees were fleeing from a nearby village, they moved into the ruins, built their houses inside the Emperor's wall, in his hallways, on top of his rooms, and just never left. So all of this is to say that Split's Old Town is not a Roman ruin with a city around it, but in fact a Roman palace that people are still living in to this day. You can find apartments with Roman columns holding up the kitchens, bars built into the old cellars, and somebody's washing hanging off a fourth century archway. It's by far the most alive ancient monument I've seen anywhere in Europe. So as you disembark from the ferry and walk from the waterfront through the city's bronze gate, you'll eventually come up through the substructures, only to be greeted by people sitting on the steps drinking coffee among what was once the grand colonnaded courtyard. In the corner of the square, you'll see the main cathedral, an octagonal building that was once Diocletian's mausoleum. Yet Diocletian was known for conducting the most severe persecution of Christians in Roman history. So within a couple of centuries, his tomb was converted into a cathedral, and his body eventually removed to make way for the church. While visiting, you can climb the bell tower for 360 views over the old town, the harbor, and the wider city beyond. By early afternoon, it's probably time to start heading to the airport, which is roughly 25 kilometers from the city center. There is a convenient airport shuttle bus that leaves from the river end of town and takes around 30 to 40 minutes, but taxis, Ubers, and bolts are also faster and more convenient options, which will get you to the airport in no time. And with that, I hope you've enjoyed this eight-day trip through the dreamy Dalmatian coast. And for those wanting to travel further and extend their trip, I highly recommend adding a couple of nights in Split at the very end. And if you have even more time, then continue your travels north to Cracker National Park, which is famous for its emerald green river and wide cascading waterfalls. Beyond that, Trojia is a tiny UNESCO Island town that is only half an hour away from Split and in my opinion criminally overlooked. And even if you did all of that, you've still only scratched the surface of southern Croatia. You'd need an entire separate trip or an additional eight days to explore the north, which, if you've got the time, I highly recommend you do. Well that brings us to the end of eight wonderful days exploring Croatia's spectacular Dalmatian coastline. From walking Dubrovnik's famous walls in the cool early morning breeze to sipping local wines made from sandy vineyards that appear to reach into the sea. And swimming in secluded coves where life seems to slow down. As always, if you've enjoyed this episode, please remember to follow the podcast wherever you may be listening, leave a review and share this episode with someone you know is dreaming of an escape to Croatia. And if you fancy having a chat about your upcoming travels to Europe, or you've got an idea for a future podcast episode, please come say hi on Instagram at travelwith.tyler, or send me an email at infotravelwithyler.com. Next episode, I've got a special guest joining me on the podcast to talk all about the wonders that await us on the magical Portuguese island of Madeira. It's a place that few people have ever heard of, yet its incredible remoteness and breathtaking nature is part of why this island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean has been affectionately dubbed the Hawaii of Europe. Until then, keep dreaming, keep exploring, and keep your European wanderlust alive.