Buona Sara Travels

Gdansk, Poland

Sara Kmiecik Episode 6

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0:00 | 27:22

Gdansk - amber, pickled herring, Flemish Renaissance architecture, the OG Goldschläger...what else do you need?

In this episode, Kevin and I will chat about one of our favorite quaint cities in Eastern Europe. This 1,000 year old port city is often called the "Amber Capital of the World" and is the actual starting location of World War II. 

During this episode, we will visit the largest brick building in the world - St. Mary's church and the incredible astronomical clock inside. We'll walk you through the charming Old Town that includes Neptune Fountain, Amber Street and a historic bell that's used to announce the opening of pubs. We even take you to the nearby "summer capital" of Sopot which is straight out of a Wes Anderson movie.

We'll of course be trying some pierogi, Żurek (a sour rye soup), Pączki and everyone's favorite...pickled, preserved fish. Lastly, we'll wash it all down with some local beer, vodka and the city’s signature drink, Goldwasser. 

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SPEAKER_01

Hi, I'm Sarah.

SPEAKER_00

And I'm Kevin.

SPEAKER_01

And we're the hosts of Bonasera Travels. I'm a travel writer and travel consultant, and together we love the art of slow travel with our six-year-old daughter Maeve and finding new destinations that are off the beaten path.

SPEAKER_00

Good. We're broadcasting from a tiny Very tiny. A uh sound cube, sound closet in uh closet is a good word for it, yep. And Ciros Greece, which uh last one we did was in uh Kamakora, Japan, and we have made it to Greece for and we will be here for the next three months.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, our daughter is going to a world school called Boundless Life, and for that reason we've been kind of trans like uh going to different locations every three months. Um and like like Kevin said, we were in Japan, now we're in Greece.

SPEAKER_00

That was our fourth one. So first Tuscany, then Bali, then Japan, then here. And I wish we could have done more at each location, but we're kind of averaging like 1.5 per three months. Yeah. Per three months.

SPEAKER_01

Hopefully we'll get a few more in here this time around. But yeah. Um today we're gonna be talking about Gdansk, uh city on the Baltic Sea up north, as north as you can get in Poland. And for our drink, um, we are drinking velvetir Polish vodka.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah.

SPEAKER_01

And some soda. Yeah.

SPEAKER_00

Nothing slim pickens on the island of Syros. Uh I mean, not as slim pickens as like Bali, but uh Bali was the worst, for sure.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. Um, but yeah, yeah, we have some just kind of basic y basic cocktail here. Prohibition style cocktail. Um by that way, but yeah, by the way, we're going to call it Gdansk. I have heard people say the name of that city many different ways. I've sometimes heard people not pronounce the G and just call it Dansk. I've heard people say Gdansk. I I think the Polish probably say it differently than we will, but that's how we know to say it, so we're just gonna keep rolling with that and say Gdansk.

SPEAKER_00

How did our friend uh Peter pronounce it? Remember?

SPEAKER_01

I I think it was pretty similar, but maybe just a little more Polish accent-y. We have a friend who's from Poland and his parents live in Gdansk. His parents live there, yeah. And I was trying to kind of hear him out and just be like a record. Just so that I could, you know, emulate that for this podcast. But um, you know, did my best. We'll we're just gonna roll with that. Um we went to Gdansk um back in when was it? A few years ago.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, it was a trip that was rescheduled many times because of uh some family tragedy, unfortunately. But uh we lumped it in with uh Lithuania and mostly uh Krakow. Krakow, Poland. So this will be one of the shorter ones we've ever done, probably, but we wanted to do it because the city was so awesome.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, we really, really enjoyed it. It's if you haven't been, it's absolutely stunning. Um just wander around the old town. It's it's really magnificent and so well preserved. Um I mean a a decent spot for like a few day trip, I would say. Not sure you need to spend like a whole month there, but um but there's a lot to offer for a couple days. If you are in Poland and you're wanting to explore a few places other than um Warsaw or Krakow.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, and Warsaw and Krakow well we didn't spend any time in Warsaw, but Krakow was super duper awesome. Actually, one of my favorite like medium to large size.

SPEAKER_01

Super duper awesome.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, that's on the you know, the welcome to Krakow. Super duper awesome. Um it's uh yeah, but I think it's too big for us to ever do. I mean, it's not really our uh our jam.

SPEAKER_01

I mean I'm sure we'll get there eventually, but I have pretty Podcast-wise you're saying? Oh, I don't know. Oh, you're saying for Krakow?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah. Yeah. I think it's I think it's too big. It's against our uh our mission state.

SPEAKER_01

Which is we're super duper awesome. Yeah, well, and small.

SPEAKER_00

Medium size is small.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. Um anyways, yeah, so we have a few things to talk about, some good things to do in Gdansk. Um my number one would be go to St. Mary's Church.

SPEAKER_00

Well, before that, let's just go little history. Okay. Um I don't remember or have too much really, but um it's a thousand-year-old port city, always kind of been a port city. Still is a port city, so it's you know, right on the water.

SPEAKER_01

Um and it's very like it's a big part of the city. I mean, as soon as you step out of the old town, I feel you're just inundated with like industrial port area.

SPEAKER_02

Um boats.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, there's some boats there. Um yeah. Okay, I keep going, sorry.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I mean I th and I also get the sense probably recently too that like a lot of people maybe store their boats there or at least go there for vacation time, maybe, because so pat, which is so pot.

SPEAKER_01

So pot.

SPEAKER_00

So pot which we'll talk about a little bit later, but that's you know, right up the street essentially, and that's a big vacation spot. I think in summer for the Polish peeps. Um but anyway, yeah, so it's a thousand-year-old-ish city, uh known as the Amber Capital of the World. Yeah. Uh Amber's been mined there since uh 8,000 BC, and I think it produces the most in the world.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. Back around 4,000 years ago, the amber trade route began, um, where most of it was coming from the bottom of Gdansk Bay, and they would transport the amber from areas like Gdansk and other areas around the Baltic Sea down toward the Mediterranean civilizations. Really like that. Yeah, people like Amber.

SPEAKER_00

I didn't uh didn't know much about Amber to be honest before I went there, but uh I like it.

SPEAKER_01

I don't know if it's my Polish roots that have drawn me to it, but I have always loved Amber.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I mean yeah, that's fine. It's people seeming pretty gaga about it there, my opinion.

SPEAKER_01

But Well, I mean that's their claim to fame, I would say.

unknown

Yeah.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, sure. Makes sense. Uh yeah, and another interesting factoid is um the first uh what was it, the first shot that was fired in World War II was right off the Yes Um by the Polish military in uh no German German battleship fired at the Polish military to to kick off World War II in 1939, which was right in advance.

SPEAKER_01

So yeah, there's a World War II museum there. We did not visit that. I don't think we had time to go, but um there is a World War II museum from nowhere. I know that.

SPEAKER_00

But uh yeah, I mean the i th I think the coolest part, at least the coolest uh historic part about it, was the architecture, um, which was you know like a mix between Dutch and Flemish Renaissance architecture with um you know like the tall, narrow rows of buildings, um row house type looking buildings.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, but tall, like really tall.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, and like really well preserved, but I don't know how new those are because as we'll get into it, uh a lot of this was destroyed during World War II.

SPEAKER_01

Oh you mean old how old they are?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I don't know if they're just like you know, renovated. I'm I'm assuming many were. Kind of reminded me of Lithuania in that like the the uh the old town looks really old, but it really was really is not that old.

SPEAKER_01

I mean I think there's definitely some old a lot of old places there still, but yeah, I would guess that it was pretty foretorn.

SPEAKER_00

Because the church is was eighty percent destroyed in World War II, yeah. Which we can we can get into St. Mary's Church, which is super cool.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, St. Mary's Church, um probably the biggest church I would say in the old town. Um very beautiful inside. Uh but um I don't know if you have a little bit more of the history of it.

SPEAKER_00

Well, it's super big. Um, that's for sure. But it it was it took over 160 years to build. Um started in 1343 and finished in 1502. But again, destroyed, I think, with a fire in like the 17th century. Um not destroyed, but but badly damaged and then really, really damaged 80% again during World War II. Um but yeah, it's it's really, really big. And we just did a podcast on uh Sevilla, Spain, uh, which I think was what the third biggest cathedral in in the U in the world. Yeah. In Sevilla. This one's the biggest brick church in the world. Um and I believe what I kind of remember and what I kind of saw again is that it's the largest brick building in the world.

SPEAKER_02

What?

SPEAKER_00

Which is funny because it makes me think of the merchandise mart in um Chicago, which also holds like a record of like the biggest square footage building in at least the US.

SPEAKER_02

Is that brick too?

SPEAKER_00

It is brick, but I guess this is bigger. Um could hold up to twenty uh twenty-five thousand people.

SPEAKER_01

Oh, that's huge.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I don't know what the population expedition be a pretty pretty large percentage of them.

SPEAKER_01

I would guess, yeah. Wow, that's pretty impressive. Um I mean I remember it being big, but I didn't because it was that big.

SPEAKER_00

I don't remember it being that big, which you know, must have been. Maybe just because it wasn't as, you know, ornate and gothic because a lot of it was reconstructed. We don't have like a distinct memory compared to like the the Sevilla church. Um yeah. Go see that.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, well, and then you can climb the bell tower up, which is always a great thing to do in cities if you're not afraid of heights. Um, oftentimes I I would say I'm a 50-50 on if I will climb the bell tower to see the city or not. Um, I am afraid of heights. And it for me, but it really comes down to the stairs uh a lot of times, especially like in Italy. We've been to places where it's just like the ricketyest stairs where I'm like, I can see this collapsing in two seconds.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I'm a hundred percent always. If I see a bell tower or church, anything high and rickety, rickety the better. Um, but I would say if you're a 50% yes, you're like another 20% to bow out halfway through. Which I I I do remember the these stairs, and I remember them being pretty rough. Do you did you go up on the bell tower? I kind of think you didn't.

SPEAKER_01

I don't think I went up. Yeah, because which I think I started up and then I was like, no, I think I'm good.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, we forgot to mention too, on this trip we were with my dad and uh our friend Kelly, who was in uh came in from Abu Dhabi, and I specifically remember Kelly being up there.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, Kelly went up with you.

SPEAKER_00

And I'm pretty sure we we were saying the whole time that Sarah would have had a panic attack or whatever.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, I think I just found a nice bench uh outside and just sat there and enjoyed.

SPEAKER_00

We usually wave from above and you wave up to us as a go-to move. Yeah. Um yeah, that was cool though. I remember the views really awesome, and I remember there was like two tiers to it. So there was like a first super rickety winding stairs, uh stop, and then you went up another, probably more modern or something to the top, which was cool. And then I think my favorite well the favorite part of the church, and probably the most famous part of the church, but maybe even my favorite part of the whole city, maybe besides the architecture, was the astronomical clock.

SPEAKER_01

Oh, that was really cool. I remember this, yeah.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I wish I had I remembered more about it, but it was this really big clock that um had featured like the zodiac, uh the month, and the phases of the moon, and this, you know, very ornate, very beautiful um wooden clock that still functions really well.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, that was beautiful. I remember I know we have photos of that that are very cool. Um, our next thing to do would be just kind of uh I think I mentioned it before, but just scroll stroll through the old town. There's so many little cute streets. Um, but aside from that, there's just i they call it the royal route. And it's just basically all of these very old, back to even kind of like Renaissance times buildings. They have one that's called the Court of the Brotherhood of St. George. They have this town hall that's Gothic and Renaissance. Um there's another really stunning building called the Artist Court. There's just like a lot of things. Um I mean, honestly, just the buildings themselves were like the highlight of the city.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, the architecture of the buildings. And yeah, again, whether they were preserved or destroyed and renovated, they they did a really good job. And I remember it was pretty pedestrian friendly as you know, most European cities are. Um yeah, and another thing I remember too is the Neptune Fountain, which was this pretty large ornate fountain, like right in the middle of that, well, the old town area. Um and what we should be drinking, which is connects to the Neptune, is the signature drink called Goldwasser, I think.

SPEAKER_01

Which don't be confused with Gold Schlager.

SPEAKER_00

Well, no, so it has gold flakes. Oh, okay.

SPEAKER_01

So it's just like the Gdansk version of that?

SPEAKER_00

Well, I think Goldschlager knocked off Goldwasser. Yeah, because this is like a big deal there. Don't I kind of remember seeing it, don't remember partaking. You know, I don't probably should have.

SPEAKER_01

We were in our early 30s.

SPEAKER_00

I think we were beyond like I would now, just because it's like a you know cultural drink, but if you were like, alright, we're not this is too looks like gold schlager. I'm not I have you know bad college memories.

SPEAKER_01

Oh yeah, I had too many, too many gold schlager memories from color not memories from college that um yeah, not I could see why we didn't partake in that.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, but it has gold flakes, and supposedly the gold flakes are supposed to, I don't know, uh signal signify that Neptune was angry by people throwing gold coins into his fountain, into that fountain, and hit the water and his its trident shattered the coins into tiny flakes, creating liquor. Okay. Sounds about right. Which is a true story. Um and uh yeah, so Neptune Fountain, that's you know, I think it's like the symbol of Gdansk, Neptune, Neptune's fountain, the drink, all that good stuff. Um then like Amber Street is an old town as well.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, so the the Amber Street is called Mariakka Street, and they also have a museum of amber that you can visit in Gdansk as well. Um, but I think Mariakka Street is the more interesting place to visit. It's just this small lined street with a street with lined with um lots of different sh vendors outside, lots of different jewelry shops. Basically the entire street is amber. You can get it basically any way you could possibly think of or want. Whether it's you know, a necklace, uh everything, anything under the sun. I get an amber bust myself. Get like an amulet, you could get a bobblehead. I don't know. Any a bobblehead, sure. Um, anything you could think of, I'm pretty sure you could find it or they will make it for you on that street. Yeah.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, and then one other kind of thing I remember was this beer battle, which I I was trying to look up um if they still use I think they do. So it it it signifies it's it goes back hundreds of years and it it it it was always used to announce the opening of the pubs in old town in in old times, but I I think that they they still use it. But I don't I couldn't find like where they what what time pubs open.

SPEAKER_02

Oh.

SPEAKER_00

Because if it was a Chicago, it'd be like, you know, midnight, 10 a.m. 5 p.m. Like there's uh we're I'm assuming in Gdan, it's uh more specific of a time. Just uh you know opening and closing is a little more defined.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, I have no idea. I'm not sure any of that. Um one thing we did, which is probably not for everybody, but um I remember it being pretty affordable was we rented a boat on the Motlawa River. Uh Lava. Probably you'd probably in Polish say Lava, I would guess. Um Matlava River and um did we have a do we have a driver or n did your dad drive it? I think we had a driver.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, pretty sure we uh we had a driver.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. So I mean we got it just from like the the side of the river. And I do remember it being pretty affordable, but that was like a really nice way to spend a few hours and just see a different side of the city. We kind of um got to go all the way down the river, and I just remember being like in awe of the amount of new construction that was there too. There was a lot, and this is a few years ago, so it's probably kind of even way more built up now than when we were there.

SPEAKER_00

But um Yeah, and I remember our friend Peter saying too that like I'm like, oh, what a cool place to like visit your parents that live there now. And he's like, Yeah, but you know, I can't remember if they grew up there or moved there, you know, like decades ago, but he said it used to not be as cool. They've really they've really like uh you know made a lot of pedestrian only streets and really brighten up the old town at the very least.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. Um and then yeah, with the boat, I know they just kind of take you down the river. Um you kind of eventually make your way to the port and then it gets really industrial really fast. And that's when we're like, okay, let's just turn around and go back the other way. But we did it around sunset, and it was a great way to spend a couple hours. So if you are there, I would definitely suggest looking into that. Um another museum we didn't get to, but worth mentioning probably is that there's a national maritime museum due to it being such a port city. Yeah. Time out though. How's your drink? How's the how's the Polish vodka?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I mean, you know, it's somewhat like Goldschlager. I've had not fond memories of vodka in general. Going back to college.

SPEAKER_01

When you're talking about Poland, what you gotta do.

SPEAKER_02

And in a fairly rural, uh small Greek island, you can't be uh Yeah, too particular. Yeah.

SPEAKER_01

Anyways, um I really want to talk about Soapot, the town that is kind of next to Gdansk. It really wasn't that far away. I think we drove, but I want to say it was what, 15, 20 minutes away?

SPEAKER_00

No, we didn't drive, we we rode our bikes to it.

SPEAKER_01

No, we rented bikes when we were in Soapot.

SPEAKER_00

Ah, see, I thought it was closer than it is then. Okay, it might be a little further.

SPEAKER_01

I think it's like 20 minutes away drive. But great day trip. Um, this town was adorable. It's right on the Baltic Sea, and there's this huge grand hotel that is straight out of Wes Anderson. I mean, I've never seen a building that is more in real life that is more just Wes Anderson, I would say. Um, but really, it's just such a cute little town. There's um a boardwalk. Again, you can rent bikes.

SPEAKER_00

We had It's the longest wooden pier in Europe. I guess it's not the boardwalk, it's just a pier. But yeah. Um Yeah. We rent so we we what? So we we parked somewhere and then we rented bikes probably near that really big pier.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah.

SPEAKER_00

And then we just biked along this like yeah. Yeah, I think we just rented them for a couple hours and yeah, I remember really cool, like um it was like right so left side was the the coast and the right side was like this uh like pine forest thing too, which was quite cool. Um yeah, that I I I think I if I would have done it over again, we would have stayed maybe overnight in that hotel if possible. Or at least like stayed close to it to like hang out.

SPEAKER_01

That was yeah, it was um absolutely beautiful, really stunning.

SPEAKER_00

Almost like a movie set. Yeah.

SPEAKER_01

If you get to God dance, definitely try to do a day trip to Sopot because it is really just a lovely town, and I can totally see it being mobbed in the summer.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, it's known as like the summer capital.

SPEAKER_01

Um, do you want to get started on some things to eat in Cadance?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, it starts and ends with herring. Pickled herring or marinated herring. Um did we go to that herring like No, that was in Krakow. That was in Krakow. Yeah, we we you know, I I shouldn't say I think like canned fish is all the rage now and I I l I'm embracing canned fish, but I feel when we were there canned tin fish, what am I saying? I don't know. Um that's what's called. I have a term for the stuff.

SPEAKER_01

I have no word for this.

SPEAKER_00

Uh but yeah, I feel like the the pickled or marinated fish, little fish, anchovies, um and whatnot are are weren't popular yet. We're weren't trendy. Um but we embraced it. We we tried every as much as we could and I liked it a lot, actually. Um I I remember we ate a little bit more in Krakow than here, but herring is yeah, that's what you get there. It's often marinated in oil and onions um and served with a cream sauce with uh apples often. Um but yeah, aside from that, it's it's a coastal town, so you're gonna get some Baltic fish.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, Baltic salmon, I think, is pretty popular. Um I remember eating a lot of that.

SPEAKER_00

And there's a there's a soup that I remember getting, and I had to look up the name of it afterwards. It's called Xerek.

SPEAKER_01

Okay. Um is this the sour soup?

SPEAKER_00

Yes. Horseradish?

SPEAKER_01

Don't remember it being with horseradish, but it is a I have written down in our notes that we ate a really delicious sour soup with horseradish.

SPEAKER_00

Zirik. So it's yeah, it's a it's a sour rye soup. Usually with like sausage and egg, and um it's served traditionally just like Panera in a howled-out bread bowl. Um that's probably where they got it from. Panera. Probably.

SPEAKER_01

And then Germany stole their uh is it is our their goldschlager and they taste on Panera's bread bowl.

SPEAKER_02

Yep.

SPEAKER_01

Um aside from that, you can get all your Polish standards. We've had we had really, really good pierogies there, potato pancakes. We had um a bigos, a traditional Polish stew, um, duck, pork, you know, fried cabbage, all right.

SPEAKER_00

And I I do remember this being the area of the the um punchki.

SPEAKER_02

Is it? Yeah.

SPEAKER_00

So I don't know if that's regional, just like, well, we should tell a story too about how my uncle was trying to hunt down he wasn't with us at the time, he was with us in Warsaw Krakow, but um he was trying to hunt down Charnina. Charnina.

SPEAKER_01

Yes.

SPEAKER_00

Which is a duck blood dug duck blood soup. And he's like, he thought you could just get that right off right off the plane.

SPEAKER_01

Because his immigrant parents would make charnina all the time, and then as soon as we got there, we he he every restaurant we went to in Poland, he was asking them, Do you have this duck blood soup? And they're all just staring at him like he's crazy. A either just like, no, I don't even know what that is, or B, if they did know what that is, they're like, Who would eat that?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I think it's a uh a generational thing, but also a regional thing, which yeah, he was striking out uh left and right with that one. But uh punchke, which I don't know if it's regional, but apparently if it is, it's it's of that region. And we know that well in Chicago because we have a Punchkey Day, which is um Fat Tuesday. Um and yeah, Punchkey's just like a a donut with some jelly inside, essentially. Yeah, a round uh filled donut.

SPEAKER_01

Well, there's no whole delicious, but yeah.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, I don't remember eating any of those though.

SPEAKER_01

They're I don't either.

SPEAKER_00

They're not big dessert people, but um but yeah, what and then like drinks, uh like I mentioned, you gotta get the gold swap. Gold wasser. And then um yeah, I mean obviously everyone drinks beer.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah, lots of beer drinking.

SPEAKER_00

But I think the craft brew scene was like starting up pretty strong as we uh as we were there.

SPEAKER_02

Because I think in Europe, you know, they drink the two to three hundred year old breweries, but they also um like making their new stuff. So yeah.

SPEAKER_01

Um yeah, this is a little shorter one because again, we were only there for a couple days, but I think it's a great stopover if you're around the Baltic Sea, if you're in Poland, if you're anywhere in that region. Um I think Gdansk is a lovely it's just gorgeous. It's charming, maybe very charming. But charming is a good word for it. Charming town to spend a couple days in, see some history, climb a tower, eat some pierogies, or cheese, or whatever, get some amber. And yeah. It's a great spot. Um yeah, so I think that's all we have. Let's do a little cheers.

SPEAKER_00

Well, what do we remember? What my uncle would be upset if I don't remember this.

SPEAKER_02

No, schwa. Okay, well, whatever.

SPEAKER_01

No, no, we're gonna look it up. We'll say at the beginning of our next podcast.

SPEAKER_00

Yes, hopefully, probably an Asian podcast.

SPEAKER_01

I keep thinking of like the Lithuanian one, because uh Kevin's aunt is a hundred percent Lithuanian, his uncle is a hundred percent Polish, so they're always you know, they sound very they sound very similar, and I can't remember which one is which now. So we'll look it up, we'll get back to you, and that's all we got. Um, if you're interested in learning more, you can check out our website at bonushairotravels.com or follow us anywhere at Bonus Air Travels, and that's all we got. All right, cheers. Cheers. Bye.