National Home Inspector Exam Prep Podcast

08 - Old Wiring Methods: Knob & Tube, Cloth-Covered, Aluminum

Season 1 - Electrical Systems ⚡ Season 1 Episode 8

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Knob and Tube Wiring (1900s-1930s)

Named for ceramic knobs (support conductors) and ceramic tubes (protect conductors through framing). Most popular early 1900s to 1930s. Still may be installed as extension of existing systems.

Correct Installation Standards:

  • ≥1" distance between wires and objects (walls, floors, framing)
  • ≥3" distance between wires
  • ≤6" between knobs and wire splice
  • ≤4½ feet between knobs in wire runs
  • Wires on sides of joists/rafters/studs (not on top)
  • Tubes where wires penetrate framing
  • Taps between knob-tube wires: May occur outside boxes (soldered/taped)
  • Taps to other wiring: Must be in covered box with appropriate protection

Major Problems:

  • Covering with thermal insulation NOT allowed (NEC Article 394.12)
  • Contact with metal (pipes, ducts, foil) is major deficiency
  • At end of service life
  • Usually no EGC (safety issue)
  • 15-amp circuits (may be overloaded)
  • Potential asbestos in insulation
  • Insurance/mortgage underwriting issues

Cloth-Covered NM (1940s-1950s)

Cotton or rayon sheathing (derogatory nickname: "rag wire"). Found late 1920s through 1960s. PVC sheathing replaced cloth in 1960s.

Problems:

  • Cloth sheathing and insulation deteriorate/become brittle with age
  • Vermin chew on cloth
  • No EGC (most installations)
  • Insurance underwriting issues (some companies)

Tin-Coated Copper Wire (1940s-1950s)

Most popular 1940s-1950s. Looks like solid-conductor aluminum but check: cut wire shows copper, cloth insulation (not plastic).

Solid-Conductor Aluminum Wiring (1964-1980)

Manufactured 1964-1980 in #8-12 AWG NM cable for residential use. Copper became expensive; aluminum seemed like good alternative. Problems emerged quickly.

Why Aluminum Wire Failed:

  • Galvanic reaction: Different metals in contact (with moisture) cause corrosion
  • Oxidation: Aluminum "rusts," increasing resistance at connections
  • Expansion/contraction: Different rates than copper and steel terminals
  • Creep (cold flow): Wire becomes permanently distorted, smaller, brittle after expansion/contraction cycles
  • Result: Loose connections, high resistance, arcing, heat, fires

New Aluminum Alloy (1972): More stable alloy introduced 1972, required 1981. By 1980, solid-conductor aluminum had bad reputation; manufacturers stopped producing it.

Distinguishing Aluminum Wire Types:

  • Stranded aluminum (#8+ AWG): No problems with CO/ALR devices and CU/AL breakers. Used for large appliances, service entrance, feeders. Anti-oxidant paste highly recommended.
  • Copper-clad aluminum (1970s): Uncommon. Looks like copper except aluminum visible at cuts. No reported problems. Rated as aluminum for ampacity.
  • Solid-conductor aluminum (#8-12 AWG, 1964-1973): PROBLEMATIC. Especially old technology (pre-1972 alloy).

Typical Repair Solutions:

  1. Rewire entire house with copper (safest, expensive, disruptive)
  2. COPALUM connectors (cold-weld copper to aluminum, expensive ~$60/outlet, requires special tools/training, CPSC-recommended)
  3. AlumiConn connectors (less expensive, sold to public, requires proper installation)
  4. Replace devices with CO/ALR (helps post-1972 wire, doesn't address creep in old wire, doesn't address light outlets)

IRC/

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