Handcrafted: The Thomas William Furniture Story

Why Tabal Chocolate Costs Ten Dollars

Linda Season 12 Episode 12

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0:00 | 19:06

Bob’s Food Tour – Stop #12: Tabal Chocolate

At this stop on Bob’s Food Tour, we step into something truly special with Tabal Chocolate—a place where chocolate is not just made, but carefully crafted from bean to bar with purpose and integrity.

Tabal stands apart through its commitment to single-origin cacao and direct trade relationships with small-scale farmers around the world. Every bar tells a story—of the land it came from, the people who grew it, and the care taken at every step to preserve both quality and sustainability.

From rich organic dark chocolates to vegan treats and even cacao for brewing, their work invites you to experience chocolate in a deeper, more intentional way. And beyond the product itself, Tabal opens the door through classes and tastings—teaching the art, the science, and the appreciation of what true chocolate can be.

This stop reminds us that even something as simple as chocolate can reflect global connection, stewardship, and craftsmanship at its finest.

Take a bite, slow down, and savor it—this is chocolate with a story.

Stories from the Shop

SPEAKER_01

I want you to picture this. It is Friday, May 1st.

SPEAKER_00

Oh, perfect spring timing.

SPEAKER_01

Right. You just stepped outside, the temperature is sitting perfectly in the low 60s, and there is this beautiful, crisp, blue sky overhead.

SPEAKER_00

Sounds like an ideal day.

SPEAKER_01

It really is. And you are surrounded by a lively group of uh twelve people from the Wisconsin Athletic Club.

SPEAKER_00

Oh, that's a great crowd to be with.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. And you are currently on what is formerly known as Bob's Food Tour. You're traveling through the Milwaukee area, hitting this incredibly curated list of exquisite food stops.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell A true culinary marathon, yeah.

SPEAKER_01

Definitely. And right now, you have just arrived at stop number 12 out of 15.

SPEAKER_00

Oh, wow. Stop 12. That takes some serious endurance.

SPEAKER_01

It does. I mean, with three more stops to go after this, maybe the new name should be Legendary Bob's Food Tour.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell Honestly, Legendary Bob sounds incredibly appropriate for a 15-stop tour.

SPEAKER_01

Right. But as you stand there, you know, at 7515 Harwood Avenue in Wawatosa, staring at the storefront of Tabal Chocolate, you kind of have to wonder. Well, why is a chocolate shop the anchor for the back half of this massive marathon? So for this deep dive, we are pulling from Tabal's official website, their product catalogs and their class schedules.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell Yeah, to figure out exactly what they mean when they call their product chocolate with intention.

SPEAKER_01

Exactly. And you know, to see if a single chocolate bar is actually worth 10 bucks. Okay, let's unpack this. Starting with the fact that stepping through those doors means totally abandoning everything you know about the standard supermarket candy aisle.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah. It requires a complete mental shift, for sure. When you walk into Tubble, you are entering a strictly bean-to-bar environment.

SPEAKER_01

Which, I mean, that phrase gets tossed around a lot, right?

SPEAKER_00

Oh, constantly. In artisanal food circles, it's become this trendy marketing term. But here it is a rigid structural philosophy.

SPEAKER_01

Meaning they actually control the entire physical process.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. They source the raw agricultural product, the cacao beans, and they physically manage the roasting, the winnowing, the grinding.

SPEAKER_01

All the way down to the final tempered bar.

SPEAKER_00

Right. And furthermore, their entire operation is strictly vegan, soy-free, and gluten-free.

SPEAKER_01

Which is wild because I read the back of standard candy wrappers from time to time, and you almost always see soy licethin lifted.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, it acts as an emulsifier.

SPEAKER_01

Right. So taking that out, along with the milk fats and the gluten fillers, it seems like a massive risk. You are essentially taking the training wheels off the chocolate.

SPEAKER_00

That is the perfect way to look at it, because commercial chocolate relies heavily on those emulsifiers and fillers to standardize the texture.

SPEAKER_01

And to stretch out the cacao, right? Since it's the most expensive ingredient.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. Soy lecithin forces the fats and the solids to play nice together, which gives you that very uniform, predictable melt. Got it. But more importantly, for the mass producers, milk, fat, and artificial vanilla act as a brilliant mask for cheap, poorly fermented cacao beans.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Ross Powell So they're hiding the flaws.

SPEAKER_00

Yes. By removing those safety nets, Tabal is forcing the raw agricultural product to stand completely on its own.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Powell That's a high wire act.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell It's total flavor chemistry. Right. Because if the initial bean is low quality or if the roast is even slightly off, there's absolutely no way to hide.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Powell And that confidence definitely bleeds into their menu, which is, frankly, wild.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell It really is.

SPEAKER_01

I mean, you see the luxury tier immediately. They have a Dubai chocolate bar sitting at $30.

SPEAKER_00

$30 for one bar. Aaron Powell Yep.

SPEAKER_01

And a Dubai Chocolate Bite three-pack for $25. But then you drop down to their $10 range and you hit these incredibly specific flavor profiles.

SPEAKER_00

Trevor Burrus Like the papaya 60% bar.

SPEAKER_01

Yes. And the delightfully named local favorite, the recombobulation bar, 70%.

SPEAKER_00

Classic Milwaukee name.

SPEAKER_01

Totally. And then there's the avocado milk chocolate.

SPEAKER_00

Ah, yes. The avocado milk.

SPEAKER_01

I have to push back on this one. Wait a minute, avocado milk and chocolate?

SPEAKER_00

I know how it sounds.

SPEAKER_01

Is this like taking a trendy morning smoothie and just trying to force it into a candy bar? I mean, how does a flavor profile like that even work without tasting like a grassy bowl of guacamole?

SPEAKER_00

That reaction is exactly why it is on the menu. To understand how that works, you have to stop thinking of chocolate as a confection and start analyzing it as a botanical product. Because cacao is a fruit.

SPEAKER_01

Right. It grows on trees.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. And much like wine grapes or coffee cherries, cacao absorbs what the French call terroir.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Ross Powell The environmental characteristics of where it was grown.

SPEAKER_00

Yes. The specific, exact geographic location.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Powell But how does terroir actually manifest chemically in a cacao bean? Is it just the soil transferring flavor somehow?

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Ross Powell It is deeply rooted in the soil, specifically in how the mineral content and the soil's pH levels affect the development of the fruit. Let's look at Tabal's regional bars to illustrate this.

SPEAKER_01

Okay, let's look at those.

SPEAKER_00

They offer a Peru Piero white 70%, an Esmeralda's Ecuador 70%, a Costa Rica 70%, and a Dominican 70%.

SPEAKER_01

All from totally different climates.

SPEAKER_00

Right. So a cacao tree grown in the rich volcanic soil of Costa Rica absorbs a completely different ratio of magnesium and potassium than a tree grown in the dense, humid lowlands of the Dominican Republic.

SPEAKER_01

Okay, that makes sense physically.

SPEAKER_00

And those minerals literally alter the pH balance of the sweet pulps surrounding the raw beans inside the pod.

SPEAKER_01

Wait, so the chemical makeup of the fruit itself is fundamentally altered before it is even picked off the tree.

SPEAKER_00

Precisely. And that altered pH dictates which wild microscopic yeasts are able to thrive during the crucial fermentation process after the harvest. Oh wow. Those specific yeasts break down the sugars in the pulp, creating totally different flavor precursors in the bean.

SPEAKER_01

So that is why some of these bars naturally taste like dark cherries and others have deep, earthy tobacco notes.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly, or bright and citrusy, no added flavorings. It's just the result of regional botany and microbial fermentation.

SPEAKER_01

Which brings us back to the avocado milk. Because if the cacao from, say, Peru naturally has a fruity, delicate profile, the inclusions aren't there to overpower it.

SPEAKER_00

Right. What's fascinating here is how the minimal ingredients let the origin of the cacao completely dictate the final taste.

SPEAKER_01

So the avocado isn't for flavor.

SPEAKER_00

Not really. The healthy fats in the avocado milk are utilized for their physical properties rather than their taste. They provide a creamy, dairy-like lipid structure.

SPEAKER_01

Uh a luxurious mouthfeel.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. It complements a robust cacao rather than just tasting like a blended up avocado. It is flavor engineering. They are using the physical properties of one plant to elevate the chemical profile of another.

SPEAKER_01

That completely recontextualizes what you are paying for when you hand over ten dollars for a bar. You aren't buying a sugar rush.

SPEAKER_00

No, not at all.

SPEAKER_01

You are paying for an unadulterated botanical experience. But, you know, recognizing those subtle botanical notes like distinguishing between cherry and tobacco, that isn't something you just absorb by eating a bar on the sidewalk.

SPEAKER_00

Right. It takes a bit of practice.

SPEAKER_01

It requires training the palate, which explains why a massive chunk of Tabol's business model isn't actually retail but education.

SPEAKER_00

Oh, absolutely.

SPEAKER_01

Looking at their schedule, since you still have three stops left on the tour after this, you might want to consider booking one of Tabol's interactive classes for a future athletic club outing.

SPEAKER_00

Bridging that gap between simply consuming chocolate and actually analyzing it is vital to their operation.

SPEAKER_01

And they have an impressive array of classes. Most of the tasting classes are priced around $75.

SPEAKER_00

Like the chocolate and tequila tasting?

SPEAKER_01

Yep. And a chocolate and bourbon tasting, specifically featuring Woodford Reserve, plus a chocolate and cocktail tasting in collaboration with Dancing Goat Distillery.

SPEAKER_00

They do a great job partnering up.

SPEAKER_01

They really do. They also offer a foundational 101 bean to bar class for $60. And I saw a recently listed T101 with Rishi T and Botanicals scheduled for April 25th, 2026.

SPEAKER_00

Oh, that sounds fantastic.

SPEAKER_01

But looking at those alcohol pairings, I have another issue.

SPEAKER_00

Let's hear it.

SPEAKER_01

Pairing delicate single-origin chocolate with something as aggressive as tequila or Woodford Reserve bourbon.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah.

SPEAKER_01

Doesn't the high alcohol content just completely obliterate the subtle notes of the cacao we just talked about?

SPEAKER_00

I get why you'd think that.

SPEAKER_01

It sounds like washing down a fine meal with mouthwash.

SPEAKER_00

It is a very logical concern. Ethanol is incredibly harsh, but the reality of flavor chemistry dictates that these pairings are not thrown together just to mask the chocolate.

SPEAKER_01

Really?

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, they are designed to highlight a very specific, complex chemical kinship between the two products.

SPEAKER_01

Wait, chemical kinship? What does that actually mean biologically?

SPEAKER_00

Think about the genesis of both fine spirits and craft chocolate. Cacao beans don't taste like chocolate when they are pulled from the tree.

SPEAKER_01

Right, they have to be fermented.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. They undergo a rigorous multi-day fermentation process, usually in large wooden sweat boxes in the jungle where wild yeasts break down the sugars. Then they are roasted. Okay. This triggers the maillard reaction. That's the browning process that restructures the amino acids and sugars into complex flavor compounds. Now look at bourbon or tequila.

SPEAKER_01

Okay, they're fermented too.

SPEAKER_00

They are born from intense fermentation of sugars agave or grains, followed by distillation and aging in charred wooden barrels.

SPEAKER_01

So they are both products of fermentation, heat, and wood.

SPEAKER_00

Yes. And that shared process creates the exact same microscopic chemical structures. During fermentation and roasting, cacao develops esters, aldehydes, and tannins. Okay. When spirits are distilled and barrel-aged, they develop identical pannins, along with congeners.

SPEAKER_01

Let's define congeners for a second.

SPEAKER_00

Congeners are the microscopic chemical impurities produced during fermentation and distillation. They are what give dark spirits their distinct flavors, aromas, and colors.

SPEAKER_01

Oh, they share the exact same flavor compounds.

SPEAKER_00

Yes. So when you pair a 70% dark Esmeraldis Ecuador bar with a glass of Woodford Reserve, you aren't fighting two different flavor profiles. You are layering identical chemical compounds on top of one another.

SPEAKER_01

It is wild.

SPEAKER_00

And as for the alcohol obliterating the palate, it actually does the opposite.

SPEAKER_01

How so?

SPEAKER_00

The ethanol in the bourbon volatilizes at body temperature, meaning it turns into a gas inside your mouth.

SPEAKER_01

Oh wow.

SPEAKER_00

As it evaporates, it acts as a delivery system, carrying those heavy, complex chocolate flavor molecules directly up into your retronasal olfactory receptors. So the alcohol The bourbon literally physically lifts the flavor of the chocolate into your nasal cavity. They unlock each other.

SPEAKER_01

That is incredible. The alcohol is acting as a vaporized delivery mechanism for the cacao.

SPEAKER_00

Precisely.

SPEAKER_01

But look, if your group isn't up for a full $75 bourbon pairing right now on the tour, the store also serves gelato, vegan sorbet, hot chocolate, mocha, and coffee drinks.

SPEAKER_00

Yeah, you don't have to do the full class right then.

SPEAKER_01

Right. So you can just grab a quick treat today and keep the tour moving.

SPEAKER_00

A shot of espresso and a piece of single origin chocolate is honestly the perfect palate cleanser before you head to stop number 13. Definitely.

SPEAKER_01

But as you stand there letting that gelato or recombobulation bar melt, we have to look at the broader ecosystem you just bought into.

SPEAKER_00

The intention part of it.

SPEAKER_01

Yes. Which brings us to the intention part of their motto and their global supply chain. You aren't just eating a snack at stop twelve, you are participating in a global ecosystem.

SPEAKER_00

This is a crucial differentiator. Tabal's history goes back to 2012, and their entire operational model is built on what they call horizontal direct trade.

SPEAKER_01

Now, I see fair trade stickers on cheap supermarket chocolate all the time.

SPEAKER_00

Sure. Yeah.

SPEAKER_01

Isn't horizontal direct trade just a rebranded marketing buzzword designed to justify the premium price tag?

SPEAKER_00

It is so easy to be cynical about ethical branding, I know, but there is a massive mechanical difference between the two.

SPEAKER_01

Okay, what is it?

SPEAKER_00

Fair trade is a certification. It does a lot of good by establishing price floors for farmers, but it still relies on a massive vertical commodity system.

SPEAKER_01

Like a traditional supply chain.

SPEAKER_00

Right. You have the farmer at the very bottom selling to a local broker who sells to an exporter, who sells to an importer, who finally sells to a processor. The farmer is isolated.

SPEAKER_01

And horizontal direct trade changes that.

SPEAKER_00

It flattens that pyramid completely. Taball is circumventing the brokers and dealing physically with the farmers. The text actually mentions a specific fall 2025 sourcing trip to Peru to visit farmers and cooperatives in person.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Powell And the goal there isn't just to write a check, right? I mean the text says they actively support cacao reforestation, biodiversity preservation, and gender equity on these farms.

SPEAKER_00

Aaron Powell Correct. But the way they implement that support is highly unusual. They identified a gap in agricultural education regarding advanced skills.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Ross Powell Like what kind of skills?

SPEAKER_00

Things like optimal pruning, post-harvesting techniques, advanced fermentation control, and drying.

SPEAKER_01

Okay.

SPEAKER_00

But rather than Tabal executives flying down to dictate how farming should be done, they act as a conduit. They connect farmers in their network with other farmers and leading academics who possess those specific skills.

SPEAKER_01

Oh, I love that. It sounds remarkably similar to an open source software project for agriculture.

SPEAKER_00

That's a great way to put it.

SPEAKER_01

Yeah. Instead of a tech company hoarding the code for a new application, they put it out on a public forum so developers across the world can tweak it and improve it. Tibul is creating a peer-to-peer agricultural network.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly.

SPEAKER_01

They're providing the resources so a master fermenter in Peru can directly share their microbial techniques with a grower in Costa Rica.

SPEAKER_00

That is a brilliant analogy. It decentralizes the expertise and gives the power back to the producers. If we connect this to the bigger picture, it explains the underlying economics of the entire operation.

SPEAKER_01

Aaron Powell Because it costs money to do all that.

SPEAKER_00

Yes. When you hand over your credit card for a $10 single origin bar, you are not paying an artificially inflated markup for a fancy label. You are paying the true actual cost of sustainable agriculture. Right. That premium directly funds the logistics of these educational exchanges, the reforestation efforts, and those gender equity initiatives.

SPEAKER_01

Here's where it gets really interesting, though. Table doesn't just keep this educational framework isolated to the jungle.

SPEAKER_00

Right. They bring it home.

SPEAKER_01

They create a closed loop by bringing that exact same intention back to Walatosa and the local community. They actively partner with local educational institutions to teach people about direct trade mechanics, food production, and chocolate as a superfood.

SPEAKER_00

It is a self-sustaining ecosystem. You cannot have a market for ethically produced premium cacao if the local consumer base doesn't understand why it costs more than a mass-produced candy bar.

SPEAKER_01

Exactly. And speaking of embedding themselves into the local Wisconsin ecosystem, we need to talk about the ultimate Milwaukee crossover.

SPEAKER_00

Ah!

SPEAKER_01

This was easily my favorite discovery in the source material, and it ties directly into the culture your athletic club is experiencing today.

SPEAKER_00

You are referring to their wholesale program for breweries.

SPEAKER_01

Yes. What is the city of Milwaukee most historically famous for? Beer.

SPEAKER_00

Naturally.

SPEAKER_01

Topple has developed an entire wholesale division dedicated to supplying local breweries. They sell cacao nibs tailored to specific origin flavor profiles for brewing beer, and more intriguingly, a product called chalk.

SPEAKER_00

Challock being a portmanteau of chocolate and liquid.

SPEAKER_01

Right. It's a liquid cacao product designed for brewers to add directly into their vats. But logically, this raises a huge red flag for anyone who knows about brewing.

SPEAKER_00

Because of the fats.

SPEAKER_01

Exactly. If you add standard chocolate, which is loaded with cocoa butterpure fat into a brewing fat, doesn't that completely destroy the foam head of a beer? Lipids are the absolute enemy of foam retention.

SPEAKER_00

Yes, they are.

SPEAKER_01

You would be like dropping olive oil into a meringue.

SPEAKER_00

Your brewing science is spot on. Fat absolutely kills the proteins that create foam stability in beer. And that is the genius of chillick.

SPEAKER_01

Because you can't just throw supermarket chocolate bars into a fermenter.

SPEAKER_00

Right. T Ball processes their wholesale cacao to carefully manage and extract those troublesome lipids. They are isolating the complex Maillard reaction flavor compounds, the roasty, dark, bitter notes of the cacao, while stripping away the fats that would ruin the final pour.

SPEAKER_01

So a local brewer trying to create a rich, heavy sout or a dark porter doesn't have to rely purely on heavily roasted, burnt, malted barley to fake a chocolate flavor.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. The brewer can walk into Taibal, taste the difference between the bright, fruity profile of the Mayan 58% and the deep earthy tones of the Dominican 70%, and select the exact botanical origin that complements their specific grain bill.

SPEAKER_01

That is so cool.

SPEAKER_00

Then, using Cholik or their specialized nibs, they seamlessly integrate that pure essence into the brew without sacrificing the physical integrity of the beer. You are literally marrying the ancient Mesoamerican craft of chocolate making with Wisconsin's legendary beer brewing heritage.

SPEAKER_01

It is the absolute pinnacle of local synergy.

SPEAKER_00

It really is.

SPEAKER_01

So let's bring it all back to this moment on the sidewalk. You are standing outside 7515 Harwood Avenue. The weather is a perfect low 60s, the sun is shining, and you've got your Wisconsin Athletic Club friends around you on stop number 12.

SPEAKER_00

Ready for the final stretch.

SPEAKER_01

Yep. You step inside to find single-origin Peruvian chocolate, whose flavor is dictated by the pH of volcanic soil. You encounter avocado milk bars leveraging botanical fats, you learn how Gerbin volatilizes cacao flavor compounds, and you discover defatted liquid cacao fueling the local brewery scene.

SPEAKER_00

It is a remarkable convergence of global agricultural science and local craftsmanship.

SPEAKER_01

So what does this all mean? To me, it means that legendary Bob absolutely knew exactly what he was doing by putting table on this itinerary.

SPEAKER_00

Legendary Bob strikes again.

SPEAKER_01

Truly. It is not just a place to grab a quick sugar high before hitting the final three spots. It's a masterclass in ethical, delicious food production. It's an anchor point that completely elevates the entire tour.

SPEAKER_00

I couldn't agree more. And to you, the listener, and to the rest of the Wisconsin Athletic Club group, we wish you a fantastic journey on your final three stops today.

SPEAKER_01

Pace yourselves.

SPEAKER_00

Exactly. Pace yourselves, enjoy the beautiful spring weather, and appreciate the craft. But as you step into Tabal and you let a piece of that 70% recombobulation bar melt on your tongue, I want to leave you with one final thought to mull over.

SPEAKER_01

Let's hear it.

SPEAKER_00

We've talked extensively today about the chemistry of the soil, the mechanics of the direct trade supply chain, and the volatile compounds in flavor pairing. But consider the mind-body connection. Okay. When a food product is completely transparent about its origins, its farmers, and its environmental footprint, when you actually know the story of the soil it came from and the hands that harvested it, does that profound psychological awareness actually change the physical way your brain perceives its taste?