Carissa Moore - Washed Podcast - Episode 8

Five-time World Champ. Olympic gold medalist. One of the greatest to ever do it. 🌊🏆

Carissa Moore joins us on Washed to talk surfing, life, pressure, stepping away, and everything in between.

This one’s special. 🎙️

Transcript

SPEAKER_04 0:00

We have a very special guest today on the podcast. We've been talking since we started that we really want to get a girl on the podcast, so we're not just another bro podcast. And we went to the very top of the pecking order. Possibly the greatest woman surfer of all time, I would say. Five world titles, one elephant gold medal, 30 tour wins, ladies and gentlemen, for some more.

SPEAKER_00 0:47

That was quite an introduction. I appreciate it.

SPEAKER_03 0:51

That's fantastic.

SPEAKER_04 0:53

Yeah, I bet you can guess my first question.

SPEAKER_03 0:56

Yeah, we're very stoked to have you on here, by the way.

SPEAKER_00 1:00

Thank you. It's so cool that you guys have your own podcast now. We've it's it's rad to be talking to both of you. I mean so much has happened and we've grown up together. So it's awesome. Thank you for having me.

SPEAKER_04 1:14

Of course. Thank you for being here. Okay, yeah. So my first question with all those accolades I just mentioned, where does beating me in the 2007 King of the Groms contest rank amongst them?

SPEAKER_00 1:28

It's definitely up there, Albi. I think about it all the time. Don't worry. Um, no, I mean it's definitely something that I look back on and I'm like, oh, that was pretty cool. Um getting to surf against a very strong field of of guys um at one of my favorite spots growing up. I grew up surfing Kiwallos, and that's where the King of the Groms was that year. And um no, the claim to fame was definitely beating Albi though in the final.

SPEAKER_03 1:57

Yeah, I was thinking about that. Wait, wait, wait, pause. Did she so did you win the whole event, Riz? Yeah.

SPEAKER_00 2:06

Yeah.

SPEAKER_03 2:07

Yeah, that is so cool. And you beat Albi in the final.

SPEAKER_00 2:12

Yep. It was a very it was a it it was an interesting uh format. So you had to, it wasn't like you were squared on two waves like your traditional heat. You had to like claim your wave. So I had yeah, I had my dad on the beach and he was giving me feedback. He's like, claim this one, put your hands up, claim this one. So I actually I had no idea what was going on. Maybe Albi just didn't claim the wave he should have claimed, and he probably would have won. I don't know.

SPEAKER_03 2:39

He's good at climbing, don't worry. No, no, no. I claim everything. Yeah, he claims everything.

SPEAKER_04 2:44

No, it's so funny too, because I got second. It was a very great event for me. I was very proud of that second place. And Krista beat everyone, but because I got second, everyone was like, Chris beat you. I was like, she beat all you guys. Like, what are you talking about? She beat all of us. She smoked us all.

SPEAKER_00 3:00

It was so funny because I think it was the year before. I don't know if it was John John who won or someone, but like they had like this really amazing like award ceremony, and everyone was there. And I swear I didn't, I got like this like chain and like this paper crown, and no one was there. Everyone just went home after.

SPEAKER_04 3:19

Hey, I was there.

SPEAKER_00 3:21

Yeah, thanks.

SPEAKER_03 3:24

That's really cool because I can remember King of the Grom's. Gosh, I don't know. Well were you born in 92, Riz?

SPEAKER_00 3:32

Yes.

SPEAKER_03 3:33

Yeah, so we're the same age. Um for I swear King of the Groms is like such a big deal back in the day, too. It was like Yeah, it was like the coolest thing to win. That is so cool. I'm so happy to hear that you did that. And also beat Albie. That's really cool. Uh I never made it. Well, Albi, if it makes you feel better, I never even made it to King of the Grums.

SPEAKER_04 3:57

So I actually got to go to the finals in France because Riz didn't want to go. She didn't want to put the whole world to shame, just her local crew of boys.

SPEAKER_03 4:05

See, I that's I never knew, I never knew how it operated. I didn't know, so like there was regional ones you have to qualify, and then the one the big King of the Grums was in Europe, Europe, right?

SPEAKER_00 4:16

Yeah, yeah, I think so.

SPEAKER_03 4:19

Okay. Um yeah, I can um when you won that, that was a big deal. Yeah.

SPEAKER_04 4:26

Yeah, that was like up there with ISA. Um, so when when was the first contest you entered? Because I guess you were surfing against the boys early on, right? Like young, young, like 12 and stuff.

SPEAKER_00 4:41

Yeah, so it was kind of all my dad's like idea to start surfing against the boys because at that time there weren't a lot of opportunities and divisions for girls. I think there was only one, which was 18 and under. And there was no rules against girls surfing in the boys' divisions. So um my dad was just like, hey, there's there's more heat experience. You get to go in a situation where there's really no pressure on you. And like these guys bring or the boys bring a different type of intensity, which I think would be really good for you. So um I kind of just was like, okay, let's do it. Why not? And I also just love that there felt like there was no pressure on me because everyone kind of like, oh, I was the girl. Everyone kind of expected me to not do well, and if I did, that was it was a bonus. So yeah.

SPEAKER_03 5:31

That's really cool. That's very forward thinking of your dad. Would you would you recommend girls nowadays to do the same thing?

SPEAKER_00 5:40

I think um I I mean totally if they wanted to, like that would be I think having more mixed gender competitions, especially uh in like the amateurs, is would be super good for both girls and boys. I think that the the levels of are just raising, you know, constantly. Uh I if you told me the 10-year-olds would be doing what they're doing right now when I was that age, like it's insane what what the kids are doing these days. Um, but I think it'd be it's really healthy, I think, for both boys and girls to surf against each other. But it's really cool to see how much the sport has evolved since I was a kid. There's so many more opportunities and divisions for girls. And I think just even I don't know over the decade that I've been on the CT, just seeing how they've created a platform for the younger generation to see what's possible. Because I just, yeah, just all the the way that the surfing has gone for women in the last couple of years is just insane. But I think that definitely starts with having that platform and seeing, you know, what's out there.

SPEAKER_04 6:43

Yeah. I wanna I wanna ask you all about the uh progression of women surfing, but first more um when you used to compete against the boys. So that was the first time you smoked me, and then um it was I think it was just maybe a couple years later that they did a no-fear qs, which was like a challenger series for today, down in Mexico at San Miguel, and it was like something about NSSA, you got like wild cards to it. I don't even know how I got in it because I had no QS points. Um, but then you got into it, right?

SPEAKER_00 7:20

So, yeah, so there was this event. Like, I don't know, I think all the top NSSA surfers from all the regions got invited to compete in this specialty NSSA event at San Miguel, Mexico, but it also was coinciding with this QS event. And my dad's like, hey, why not like put Ris on the alternate list? Then like we're not here just for one vent. We'll kill two birds with one stone if she happens to get in. Awesome. And so I ended up getting called up for the last heat of the day as the alternate, and I just remember being so frantic, like not thinking that that was even gonna, you know, work out. And so um I ended up with a heat in a heat with you at last heat of the day. It was yeah, yeah.

SPEAKER_04 7:59

And so I remember I was um, we were getting ready, and we're like, I was I was with like it was two. I hope they don't listen to this podcast, two just random California QS warriors at the time. Maybe there's someone I I knew, but I I can't remember. Um, but I remember one of the guys, we were like, there's two guys and me, and we were waiting for the fourth, and then it got announced that you were gonna be you're filling in as an alternate, and one of the guys like looked at me, he's like, Oh, how stoked are we? We got the girl in our heat, like full just douchiest thing to say ever. And I remember looking at him, and I had already been smoked by you at King of the Grounds, and I think something else at Koala was like another one of those events, and I was like, Okay, buddy, like for sure. And then we went out. I think you caught the first wave of the whole heat, maybe first or second wave of the heat, and you dropped a 10. And I remember me and the guy were sitting out there, and he just looked and he's just like, What? I was just like dying laughing. I was like, This is too good. I was like, But do you remember that wave?

SPEAKER_00 9:09

I don't remember, I don't remember the 10. I do remember I did like one of my little slidey reverse things, and I was so stoked. And when they announced the 10, I was like, What? No way. Um, it was one of those moments that I don't think is was recorded. Like my dad's tried to find the footage of it, and so it's just up up in the universe in our memories, but it's it's cool to say I got a 10 in the immense QS event.

SPEAKER_02 9:35

I like how it always happens with Alvi too. That's really cool.

SPEAKER_00 9:40

He's the he's the good luck charm for yeah, that's it.

SPEAKER_04 9:46

I'm there for it. That was awesome though. And you what do you think you took from like beating boys? Did that give you confidence moving forward? Or um like I yeah, like you said, it was a different kind of energy to compete against.

SPEAKER_00 10:01

Yeah, I think it definitely was just like I I fed off the intensity that you guys brought to the heat situations. I think I I'm naturally I don't like confrontation, I don't like certain things, and but I think that boys, especially when there weren't those priority situations, you kind of it really got you to have to like step up and fight for the good waves and for you know sitting deepest at the peak and stuff. And just like the approach is like full on. It's like not holding back. I I think I learned that from a really young age competing against the boys, that like if if you safety surf, you're only gonna get a certain type of score. Um, so um that was I think the biggest difference was there was like that the boys were always looking for above-the-lip surfing and barrels and how to like do things, look at it differently. And um at the time I don't really feel like the girls were doing that.

SPEAKER_01 10:59

Yeah.

SPEAKER_03 11:00

Yeah, well, I think God No, I was just gonna say it's cool that you got to experience um the non-priority side of surfing too with the men, because I feel like that was like a different style of surfing and different way of competing. Because there was like how I look at it, there's like before priority and then after priority competition surfing. And before priority started, it was a whole different world. That's kind of what I uh felt with competitive surfing. It was insane how aggressive it was.

SPEAKER_00 11:33

So aggressive. I I'm very happy that priority was introduced. Super happy.

SPEAKER_04 11:39

I think I think that's a big reason. Yeah, go ahead.

SPEAKER_00 11:42

Oh no, I was gonna say, I just I still hate that first five-minute exchange when there's no priority. Like, can we just flip a coin?

SPEAKER_03 11:49

Yeah, so what do you so that's that's the funny thing. Anytime I'd get like a good friend in a hate, I don't know if you have rituals with your friend because it's like more common with the women surfing, like good friends coming up against each other. But when I'd come up against someone like Joel or you know, Mick or someone who I was staying with or very close friends with, there'd be like a little ritual where we'd like flip something and it's like, okay, you get priority. Whoever wins gets priority. Is did did that ever happen on the girl side of things?

SPEAKER_00 12:16

Um it hasn't happened uh yet, but uh I've been traveling a lot with Gabriella Bryan. She's one of my best friends on tour, and we had a heat this year in El Salvador, and I was like, can we just flip a coin? But but we we we you know we ended up not, but it was it would actually just you know worked out that like we're like, I don't know, in my head, uh I was like there just let it go, let let the ocean decide, and we just took turns catching waves, and that feels a lot better than getting up in each other's business. Let the surfing do the talking.

SPEAKER_03 12:47

That's very true. That's cool. Good way to good way to handle things.

SPEAKER_00 12:51

But it is a game, it is a game, so at times you have to play it.

SPEAKER_04 12:57

Yeah, I think I think um some people I I've seen how competitive you are, and you are like the sweetest person ever, but you are one of the most competitive people I've ever met in my life. Um do you ever feel like that's a weird balance like to hold?

SPEAKER_00 13:13

Um sometimes, I think more so in the past, now that I'm a mom. Um, I don't know, it's it feels like I'm like embracing more of like who I am and feel more comfortable being, you know, more confident and assertive in certain situations because I need to be, and then being that happy, bubbly other person too, because they're both they're both so important to me, you know. So I'm learning how to embrace them a little bit more.

SPEAKER_03 13:49

Yeah, that's from what from when I was always like you know, being on tour and stuff and being around you, I always felt like you had a really good navigation of switching, like you had this switch where like you're the most beautiful person on land, but then once you're in the water, the switch gets flicked, and it's like, okay, competitor comes out. Then I come back into land, switch gets flicked back to normal risk. And that's I think you have to have that if you want to do good in a competitive sport and just in general.

SPEAKER_00 14:20

I think I think it's important to have a switch in order to have a sustainable competitive career because I think um, you know, it wasn't always that way. I think some there were a few years where it was lonely and I didn't have the best of friends to share it with, and you realize it just gets so lonely. And what's the point of like not having people with you when you're at the top? And so I don't know. I um yeah, there's definitely been a learning, you know, a learning curve with that. And it's still tricky to balance friendship and comp competitiveness, but it's a dance, and and you I do believe you can figure it out. I think there's a balance.

SPEAKER_03 15:01

Well, if anyone's figured it out, it's definitely your risk. Thanks, Jack. That's it, guy.

SPEAKER_04 15:07

Yeah, I feel like I mean, you don't have to figure it out, but then you just be like an asshole the rest of the time. You know, instead of just just in your heats being aggressive. I feel like some people are just aggressive all the time, and that's like their competitive mindset. They don't know how to turn it off. And they're not as fun to talk to. That's why they're not on the podcast with us. That's it. Um so what was the first year you were on tourists?

SPEAKER_00 15:32

2010.

SPEAKER_04 15:34

Wow. That's crazy. We talked about it a little bit, but like I yeah, as a surf fan myself, like I I kind of struggle watching a lot of the um competitions these days, at least on the guy side, but I have never been more engaged with like women's surfing and like watching it. And I'm not just like blowing smoke, like it is just it's in the would you agree that it's in the best place it's ever been?

SPEAKER_00 16:05

No, for sure. I am so proud to be a part of women's surfing right now. And I think what's so cool is that this the in the progression has just been this steep incline. It hasn't like been like this long, slow progression. It's like literally happened in a blink of an eye, which has been so cool for everyone to watch. Um, so yeah, I I couldn't agree more.

SPEAKER_04 16:28

Yeah, but I also think like, do you ever sit back and look at the new crop of girls? Because I just watched like a bit of that um, what's that new Red Bull movie nowadays with all those girls? There were things that all came from like I would say you were the main thing that like kind of started that movement where girls started doing airs and stuff. And I would say like, and your whole the whole um Nike crew that did like the leave a message thing. Like, I feel like that movie and that time with you, that little crew of you guys who are all top competitors and could film a movie segment, which was you know not really a normal thing for women surfing at the time, kind of gave birth to what we see now and what is like the coolest time in women's surfing. Do you feel like that kind of era gave birth to what we see now?

SPEAKER_00 17:22

Well, I appreciate that. I do feel I feel like everyone's gonna be able to do it.

SPEAKER_04 17:26

You should take credit for it. Yeah, I agree. You earned it. Like, really take credit for it.

SPEAKER_00 17:34

Well, well, thanks you guys. I um I I I feel, I don't know, proud to be a part of my generation. I think um every generation has set a really nice foundation for the next. Like my generation wouldn't have been able to thrive if it wasn't for the Melanie Bartell's and the Rochelle Balars and Keola Kennelly's and you know, Lisa Anderson's. Um and that just really inspired me. And so those are the women that were like starting to like scratch the surface of like progression and and big wave. I remember like so vividly sitting on the Fiji boat watching Rochelle get her perfect 10 after the horn blew. Like that was insane. And I was just like, oh my gosh, women can do it. Oh my gosh, it was like so cool and mind-blowing. And now we're seeing it like all the time from from the girls. Um so yeah, no, it's it's been cool to see like all the the dots being connected and and this new generation kind of taking what we did and to a whole nother level.

SPEAKER_04 18:38

Yeah, I remember watching Rochelle get a huge wave at um Honolua when I was little. That was like blew my mind. I was like, holy crap, that was insane. Um But yeah, I that was another thing I wanted to ask. Was um so when was um when did so it was like you guys used to have your own events and the guys used to have their events and it wasn't like um coinciding with each other, right, for a while?

SPEAKER_00 19:06

Yeah, and then they were separate.

SPEAKER_04 19:08

When did that change? What year was did that come change where it was just all the same? Do you remember?

SPEAKER_00 19:16

I am the wrong person to ask for exact dates, but but you I think it was like around 2019 or something that were because I think that's when they announced equal prize money, and then so then they were like, hey, like we sh I think we're gonna we're gonna start also giving equal opportunity.

SPEAKER_04 19:36

Yeah. That's awesome. Um I always said so we me and Jack talked about this a little bit when we were talking about big wave surfing. Um because I always thought big wave surfing rewarded charging almost too much, and I but I always thought that one of the things because I've had my different issues with W Cell competition surfing, like as a fan and as a surfer, but I thought that was one of the coolest things. I've always thought the guys should have to surf like, or like everyone should have to surf kind of like a couple big waves and like different ways and like the whole thing. But I think the women being added to pipe and chopes, like again, because there used to be events back in the day, yeah, like proved my point so fully because I think the coolest thing to see in competition is someone do something that they didn't know they could do, you know, like seeing the best athletes in the world push themselves past where they even thought. And I know you've ex I've watched you do that many a times in your career, but I thought like the pipe contest was one of those things, and that was like another thing you were a big part of. Like, you know, you kind of I don't know how do you think you would have gravitated towards pipe as much without a competition there?

SPEAKER_00 20:55

Absolutely not, absolutely not. It was the so when they announced that they were gonna finish our event, that our Honolul event got um like we had to press pause because of the unfortunate shark attack, which was horrible. Um, and then they announced that they were gonna move us to finish at pipe, and I was like so dreading that decision. I was not happy. I was not happy at all. I am, but I do like look at it now and I'm like grateful, like you said, Albie, because it was the motive, it has been the motivation for me to get out there and also so many other women to get out there. Like now you go out to pipe any winter, and there's a more than a handful of girls charging, and like girls are getting solid waves. It's it's so impressive. Um, and I think we all remember I think it was 2024, it was the year that I actually announced that that pipe was gonna be my last event on the championship tour, and I bowed out um in really poor conditions. But the following day, the finals day for the women was it was Milestone day of performance for and they really just raised the bar. It was insane how good the girls were surfing. Like I remember watching, like, oh, I wish I was a part of this day. But it was rad just to see um see the waves that they were doing and where they were taking it.

SPEAKER_04 22:18

Yeah. Well, I think it was it was cool to see because uh you are a good backdoor surfer. Like, and I don't think you would have who knows if you would have figured that out if you weren't like pushed into that situation. But I remember watching that event, and I remember being like bummed you weren't in it because you said it was gonna be your last event. Um I also was like, I wonder if she's yeah, it was. I was like, I was wondering if she's sitting there like like because I thought I didn't we didn't know you were coming back to tour at any point at that time. I was like, I wonder if there was any part of you like sitting there watching that, like, oh you know what? I left I left women's professional surfing in a really good place. Like, like watching that finals day. Like, did you feel any of that? Like, like, you know what? Like, you go, girls.

SPEAKER_00 23:01

I'm gonna be honest here, the competitive wrist was not happy at all. Like, those were not my thoughts at all. But like, I was also like, you know, this is cool, this is awesome, but like selfishly, I was like, oh, I really would have loved to have been a part of it. Um yeah, and at that moment in time, like I was super serious that I was like, I'm good, I'm done. Like, I was really burnt out from uh winning, I mean, losing two world titles in a row. Um, and then to have that happen and walk up the beach and kind of just be so anticlimactic. I was like, I don't know. I just it was like, I need to take a break. So yeah, it was it was it was a weird time, but I also look at it now and I'm like, maybe it was like meant to happen that way because it left a little bit of a question in me, like, oh, well, maybe the door's still open. Like, what else do I want to finish it a different way? You know, because that just didn't feel like uh I didn't I look at it now, I don't want to close this chapter of my surfing career walking up the beach after losing a two-foot pipe, you know. And so this year has been such a blessing to be able to do it with my daughter and my husband and just fill it with so much of so much joy.

SPEAKER_04 24:14

Yeah. And I know I Jack wants to ask you about um the decision to leave tour and that, but before that, I just want to say you should have two more world titles. I can't figure it out. It's just oh my gosh. But they like, you know, the Core Surf fans, when they did that, I mean, that was just so silly. And you I feel like you were so far ahead on both of those. I was just like, I so you have seven world titles to your true fans, Ris.

SPEAKER_00 24:41

Well, thanks, you guys. It that you know, people's champ, it that that means the most, but I was gonna say, you know, we all we all signed up for it in the beginning of the year. We knew the rules of the game, and that's just the way it was. Um it's okay.

SPEAKER_04 24:54

People's champ doesn't pay the bills, let me tell you what.

SPEAKER_03 25:01

Oh, that's so cool. Yeah, well, I got some I got some questions. Speaking of the transition, um, so like when you when you left, were you thinking when you're walking up the beach and stuff, and after reflecting on that, were you thinking it was like, oh, I'm gonna start a family, or was it more like I think I'm just done with world tour surfing right now?

SPEAKER_00 25:23

I just was like, I I well I mean, a huge part of me walking or deciding to take a break and walk away was I really wanted to prioritize starting a family with Luke. Um, and also I was like, that was the same year as the Olympics in Tahiti. And so I really wanted to do like just spend a lot of time there. And I spent over a month, I think, in Tahiti, like before the Olympics, and like just surfing the wave over and over and over again. And I don't know, I don't consider myself really comfortable in waves of consequence. So the more that I like I just approach it as the more I put myself in those uncomfortable situations, hopefully, the more comfortable I get. Uh so that was kind of there were two things that went into uh a lot of things went into that decision, but those two were like very prominent going into that decision.

SPEAKER_03 26:19

Gotcha. Yeah, and that that must have been a really hard decision too, because like you're still at well, even though today you're still at the peak of your surfing, um, to you know, to navigate taking a break, and then also turn that naturally into like starting a family. That's that's a really admirable thing. And it's so cool to see you coming back and doing what you're doing and just crushing it. Was there like Yeah, I guess like how did how how did it feel making that decision? Was it natural? Like, I want to start a family, and then like when when you made that decision, was it like was World Tour surfing still in your head?

SPEAKER_00 27:00

It was a decision, like the decision to hang up the jersey for a minute, the decision to starting a family, all of it like I would did not take lightly. I I think and think and think and then think some more. Like so that decision was something that like it started to pop up like in 2022, and then you know, I did 2023 and gave it a good shot. Then at the end of that year, I was like, I I'm you know, we've put off having a family for so long, and I'm a little mentally burnt out, and I've given it the best that I have could, and I think it's time to like prioritize something different and just like see what else is out there and feed a different part of our soul. And so yeah, we just kind of went all in in a different direction, and it was super scary because competitive surfing is has been such a big part of my life and is kind of all I've known since I was a teenager. And so all of a sudden, I'm like, okay, I'm just gonna like get super uncomfortable and you know, do something that you know maybe not everyone wants or expects of me, but it feels right for me and my my family. And uh it was really funny because Luke's like, okay, if you if we start trying now, you could still surf in the Olympics and won't be that pregnant. And I was like, uh, okay, like sure. I don't know if it's gonna work. And it worked, and I was like, yeah, I was thinking that is so cool. Nine nine or ten weeks pregnant during the Olympics.

SPEAKER_02 28:37

So oh no way, you were that's crazy.

SPEAKER_00 28:41

Yeah, so it actually was like a really perfect transition for like after I lost in the quarters in Tahiti, I was so bummed, you know, because you put all your eggs in one basket and I spent so much time there and everything, and I was like, oh gosh, it didn't work out. But then I also had something really beautiful and bigger to start putting my energy into. Yeah.

SPEAKER_03 29:02

Yeah, that is that is so cool. And how long did you how long do you how long like how long did you surf for like in your pregnancy? Did you when did you stop surfing?

SPEAKER_00 29:13

I like it's funny because it it was such a like it was a slow progression of like not surfing, but I surfed all the way up until a week before I gave birth, but it was just it wasn't pretty. Like I was paddling out with my butt in the air. I look like an inchworm, and Luke was pushing me into waves, and it was so humbling because I couldn't surf like I have surfed my whole life, and I was just like, who am I? Um, but it felt so good to just stand up on a wave and feel that speed underneath me, even being like, and then on land, I just was waddling around and so heavy. Um, but yeah, I surfed all the way up until the end, pretty much.

SPEAKER_04 29:50

Oh my gosh. Well, that's amazing. That was actually um, I asked my girlfriend if she wanted to ask you any questions. She's a doctor, and she was like, Ask her how long she surfed for with the big bump and how she managed it.

SPEAKER_00 30:02

Well, there's actually so a funny story. I I think it was like I was eight and a half months pregnant or something ridiculous. I was, I had a belly, like couldn't see my feet. And the waves were pumping one day. And I but it wasn't like big, it was just like beautiful conditions, and maybe like three foot. And it's at this spot where you have to like scramble over rocks. It's kind of dangerous when you're not pregnant. But I was like, babe, I got this. I want to do this.

SPEAKER_02 30:29

I bet you Lake was just like, please, babe, please, no.

SPEAKER_00 30:33

Yeah, no, but of course he was like the best partner ever, and he helped me into the water and like pushed me into waves and stuff, but it was just like people were looking at me, like, how the heck did you get out here?

SPEAKER_04 30:44

Oh my gosh, that's amazing. You didn't have like a custom board with the bump because I was just with um Mikey from STEV, and his wife is um, I think like, yeah, seven or eight months pregnant, and she was like trying to figure out how to like she was like, Should I put like an inner tube around it and paddle my surfboard that we're trying to work it out?

SPEAKER_00 31:05

I did find that actually you don't want a super buoyant board. I feel like the bigger you get, because then there's more pressure on your belly. So you actually want like a board that sinks enough so that there's like you can put your knees and like push the board away, if that makes sense.

SPEAKER_03 31:25

That totally does. There's a magic tip for for mama bears eight and a half months pregnant. That is so cool, Riz. Um, I know like it. I think we're just getting to that age where everyone's starting to have families, so I feel like I've been around a lot of like you know, pregnant women, which has been really cool. And um I know Bethany surfed in like the pipe contests, and she was like six or seven months pregnant, and I think she did it a few times. I don't know if the contest directors knew, but um, she was charging hardcore. I know Alana, she stopped surfing around like six months. She was like, I can't even move. She just was over it. But um I could yeah, how did how did all the the the pregnancies and that go? Was it all smooth sailing? I I know that speaking from experience, we've I've had two kids now. And it was a contrast and different kids, like it was wild.

SPEAKER_00 32:19

I can't even imagine. I know I would love to like sit down with Alana at some point and pick her brain because now that I've kind of I'm on the other side of it, I just would love to like hear her story and how she went through it all. Um no, but I've always been so impressed with like her and Bethany and Kaylee Amonies, and and it's just been rad to like become a mom alongside Joanne and Tati and see them coming back in the competitions. I think Joanne made her heat today in the US Open, which is so awesome. Um overall, the pregnancy was like, it was great. It just I think for me was just a bit of a shock because I've never spent that much time out of the jersey, not really surfing and doing what I normally do. So, and then watching my my body change and gain the weight and all the doubts and and stuff that comes with that. Um, but no, it's been such a beautiful thing. Um, I've learned so much along the way about myself and so much from my daughter. Um, and it's been really healing for me too, because you know, you end up like talking to your daughter or like raising your kid the way that you like wish some some things were done a little bit differently, you know? And so, in a way that that's that's been really cool.

SPEAKER_03 33:38

That is so beautiful, it is true. It's like especially from a surfer's perspective, because I felt the same like surfing is such like a selfish endeavor. And then it wasn't until I had kids that I was like, oh my goodness, there's this whole other chapter of life that I haven't been tapping into. Personally, it felt for me, and it's it was really cool to for me to switch gears, and now I feel like I'm so much more happier just being a dad and doing stuff with my family.

SPEAKER_00 34:08

It's the best, like honestly. I think it was really freeing because, like I said, I competition surfing was all I knew, and I was like, what is like it felt really weird for a while to like watch the contest and professional surfing go on without me. But then I was like, I love my life, I love my life at home, I love my routine with my little girl, I love you know, hang going for a walk with like Luke and Olena and the dogs and picking flowers. Like, I could do that. I'm like, I'm psyched after this competitive surfing thing is done, like the rest of our life is gonna be amazing.

SPEAKER_02 34:43

Yeah. Oh, that's that's epic.

SPEAKER_04 34:48

How long after uh Lena was born did the kind of like seeds of the idea of coming back like creep in? Because I could see you like right after, like, yeah she's coming on tour with us. No, no.

SPEAKER_00 35:02

Um honestly, it was a very slow progression. Uh I just really like wanted to not rush anything, and I wanted to enjoy the newborn bubble bliss, and I didn't want to like feel like I had to start working again. So it was like really important for me to like not have any goals. But then obviously I was like, okay, I do want to get stronger again. And then there was a couple days that you know, obviously I was surfing a bit of a bigger board, but I was like, oh, I that's a turn. That's that's a cutback. Wait, I feel like maybe I could like let's just see if I can hang during the winter. So that was like my next goal was like, I want to go and surf Haliva and just like keep up. And so that was, and then I ended up getting a call from the WSL and they were like, hey, would you ever consider coming back? And I think that was like maybe in the summertime. And I was like, whoa, whoa, that was a cool call. Like maybe, I don't know. Um, they needed a decision, yeah, in like October. So I was up until the moment I said yes to accepting the wild card. I was still like, I don't know if I should do this. And I hadn't even put a jersey back on because I think my first contest back was Haleva. And those actually went way better than I expected. Um, and that gave me a little bit of like confidence. I was like, okay, we're gonna do this. But still, like, even getting on the plane for Bells, the first event of the season, I was like, what are we doing? This is insane.

SPEAKER_03 36:29

Were you overwhelmed at all? Were you like, oh my goodness, this is such a different dynamic of how I used to navigate things?

SPEAKER_00 36:37

Totally, but I think that that really went into my uh my mindset and approach. I was like, I have to do things differently. Like this year is I have a learning mindset. I gotta let go of how Riss did this before. I mean, obviously take some of the things, but I really have to like I I have to do it differently. Like, I was always first in the water before the comps, and I haven't even been warming up. Like, it's that different, you know?

SPEAKER_03 37:03

So that's crazy. There's also something I wanted to touch on. I I don't think too many people know that I don't know if the rule still exists, right? If you've won a world title, you can take a year off and then get a wild card. Is that still a is that still a rule?

SPEAKER_00 37:18

I honestly I couldn't tell you. I don't know what the exact rule is. Yeah, I'm sure there's maybe there's something in there.

SPEAKER_03 37:26

I think there used to be a rule where if you've won a world title, you're allowed to have a year off and you come back and and you're allowed to regain your your a wild card or something from the WSL. Because I know Nick and Kelly's done that a few times. Um but yeah, that is that is uh it it's a crazy concept. Like when you start to bring your kids on the road, I can remember how like in a way it was like so freeing because you're not really thinking about the contest so much. It's like I can remember this is a funny story. I can remember being on one of my heats, and uh it was one of the best heats I had that year until it, and I was singing uh what was it? I was singing um The Wiggles. Because that's all we did. Yeah, we're singing the wheel, like Mash Banana, Mash Banana, like we're singing that, you know, like the Wiggle song. And uh Yeah, it was just a funny concept because it was just like uh it was just so freeing, and I felt like it was it it it translated really cool in surfing. Did you did you ever felt that in a sense, like where you're like, oh okay, like everything's changed so much that it's like actually feels and it's working better?

SPEAKER_00 38:34

No, absolutely. I think I mentioned it before that I'm just so in my head a lot of the times. Uh I think so much, and that my daughter, because and just with your kids, you just you're you're constantly thinking about what they need, like they're the next snack time, the next diaper change. Like, are they okay? Are they taken care of? And so um I think my mind has been so preoccupied with her that it's actually been a very positive thing because I'm like not overthinking who I'm up against or like what the conditions are like. It's like you show up, you put the jersey on, you surf, you you either do it or you don't, but it just really simplifies things, right?

SPEAKER_03 39:13

It does, yeah, yeah.

unknown 39:15

Yeah.

SPEAKER_03 39:15

Oh, that's so cool. So I have to keep going by I do have more questions for you, Rhys. Just just with just with surfing and stuff like that. But um I was gonna say, like, how with the with that dynamic of like the surfing, like, how do you and Luke, how do you and Luke navigate things?

SPEAKER_00 39:35

Well, Luke's really been the MVP um because he was honestly so happy and content being at home, and he just was and he's like, Okay, well, if you want to do this again, I will rally. So, like he's been so selfish, selfless, and unconditional with his support because you know he's always been there for me and kind of put his goals and dreams on the back burner. Um but yeah, so it's so interesting because we've had six weeks off. This first half of the season, I feel like is gonna feel so different to the second half of the season, not only in the like different types of like waves that we're going to, but like our daughter is now a toddler. I'm done breastfeeding. So I think that uh just like what the what it's gonna look like is gonna look a little different.

SPEAKER_03 40:22

Um again, yeah, it's gonna be different.

SPEAKER_00 40:24

It's it constantly changes as you know. You think you get comfortable, and then they're like, wait, no, we're gonna mix it up.

SPEAKER_03 40:31

That's uh yeah, that's what my coach said, Tom Whitica. He was just like, Don't get comfortable because things change every two weeks. It's like, oh, okay. Yeah, yeah.

SPEAKER_00 40:40

I feel like it's kind of it. I mean, surfing has prepared us for this because surfing is constantly changing too. So um, but yeah, no, he is he's very hands-on, he's super present. Um he has always been there, even from the beginning. I think sometimes dads think that they can't be as involved in the beginning when the babies are they need the boob, they need the mom. But he was very much like, okay, I'm gonna figure out a way to soothe her and make her happy when mom's not there. So he played has always played a very significant like half-half role with Olena.

SPEAKER_03 41:16

That's very cool. That's beautiful, that's epic. Yeah.

SPEAKER_04 41:20

And then how is um so yeah, getting back to this year, because it's I mean, it's been pretty amazing to watch, but so the first couple events, how did did you have any good results in the first couple? Or was it all kind of average by your standards?

SPEAKER_00 41:36

They were pretty average. I started off with a round two loss, and then I went and I got a quarterfinals in Margarets, and then I got another round two loss at Gold Coast, and I was pretty defeated, not gonna lie.

SPEAKER_04 41:51

I was yeah, what did that feel like for you? Like uh, because you know, you're one of the most winning surfers or there has ever been. And like, did you just was there any part of you just like, oh, I just want to go home and hang with Luke and Alina and just go back to my routine? Like, was there any of that?

SPEAKER_00 42:09

Yeah, no, absolutely. After the Gold Coast, I well, I got Luke myself and myself, we got we were just wrecked with a cold. We were so sick. And so, but we still had to like find out I had to surf a couple heats. And I just remember just like I it's just it was just so hard. And I lost, and I just wanted to get home after being on the road for almost two months. We were just like, let's get out of here. And we were packing frantically, trying to make a flight that afternoon. It was kind of chaos, and I was just sitting in the mess, and I just was like bawling my eyes out, being like, I just like why are we doing this? I don't want to do this, I want to give up, I want to go home, like I'm over it. And then um my daughter out of nowhere comes and brings me my jersey. And it was like one of those moments that you're just like, okay, like it was that reminder that you're that I was like, I'm not gonna give up on the promise that I made to her, which was I'm going to give it my very best until that last horn blows that pipe, like no matter what. And and it just was like, what kind of example do I want to set for her? You know, am I gonna give up and run away from this or am I gonna keep fighting? And I just couldn't believe that I that she knew what I needed in that moment without saying anything, you know, and that she comprehended that, like, okay, mom's really bummed, she's sad, she doesn't want to do it, but she like that was everything I needed to keep going. And then the next event, New Zealand happened. So it was really like kind of those like things that you can't like script or like write about, and then it comes together and you're like, wow, that was beautiful.

SPEAKER_03 43:46

Yeah, that was beautiful. Yeah, walk us through New Zealand because I think that was like a super emotional event for everyone watching you. But like, what was that like for you? Like you just kept progressing, progressing, and then you're in the final. After all these cra this crazy journey you've had of like pipe, you know, finishing pipe and then going into parenthood. Here you are in the f in the final, potentially, you know, about to win it yourself, like with your with your family, like talk us through that.

SPEAKER_00 44:16

I it's like, I think you both can relate, like, it's like one of those moments where it just or events that just felt like it was gonna work out. Like I didn't think I was gonna like I win or dominate. I didn't know how it was, but I just felt like it was gonna work out. And then it just the flow zone happened where like even just the conditions started, like for some reason I was like one of the last heats of almost every day. And it was just the the not that the seas parted, but like the swell picked up, the the tide was right, the the waves kind of just like started pulsing, and it was just, I don't know. I I think from from the Gold Coast where I felt I was putting so much pressure on myself, I kind of let that go. I was reminded of why I came back, and then I brought my family along. So not only was my dad there and my husband and my daughter, but like earlier on in the week, my sister was there with her fiance and her baby. So it was like there's so much love. And then just like, I don't know, something about New Zealand reminds me so much of home and the community and the people. And it's just so grounding, and it just makes you like you forget about all the silly stuff, and you just focus on surfing and being in that moment and just enjoying yourself and and creating those memories and moments, and yeah, it just kind of all worked out, and I'm so so grateful.

SPEAKER_04 45:37

Yeah, that was amazing to watch. Yeah, at what point I mean, it must be like Yeah, it must have been a crazy like thing to go through for you because there is like even in the short time since you took the time off, like there's a whole new crop of girls that are like really gnarly and like you know, women surfing, like we talked about earlier, is blowing up in a new like more than it's ever been. Like at what point during I guess it mustn't have happened during that contest were you just like like oh, like I'm I'm still here, like I can win. Like, what at what point did you like start to believe that? Or like did you always have that belief through the whole year? Or did it, you know, no go away and come back?

SPEAKER_00 46:23

No, I definitely didn't have the belief. I think the belief in myself was growing, and then the faith in the universe, which I totally like you have to have of a bit of that, especially in surfing, because there's so much out of our control. But the faith was starting to build. Um, it was it, I was I like to journal, so I definitely like think about a lot of these things. But the first heat, I ended up getting my first excellent score of the year. I got an eight, and I remember getting so emotional because like in that one score, it was the judges saying, You can still score. Excellent, you can still do this. And so for me, that's like all I don't know, that kind of like steamrolled the confidence a little bit was just that that first excellent score. Um, but yeah, it is like it's crazy all of the the talk and the media that builds up this next generation, and then you start to believe it and you start to second guess yourself, and and then after a while you're like, uh, I just don't have the energy to really care. I just have to like go out and have fun and try my best. And if I look silly, so what? It's okay, you know, but I'd rather go out there and look silly than sit at home and be scared and not try at all, you know. So that's kind of where I'm at. I mean, I'm going to Tahiti in a week, and I have not nearly spent enough time in waves of consequence in the next in the last two years. I may look very silly, but that's okay. I'm gonna go out and try my best.

SPEAKER_03 47:57

That's very cool. I think that's a real I I think that's like the coolest way to look at it though. Like, you know, like look just you're just coming back, you just there's no expectations, you're there to have fun. Like it for me, I I don't can't speak for Albi, but for me watching your New Zealand win and it felt like even though you've won world titles and you've won so many events, King of the Grounds, I forgot. Yeah, and King of the Grons. Um that one looked like it meant the most out of anything I've ever seen you win. And I think everyone around you felt that way too.

SPEAKER_00 48:40

Well, thanks, thanks, Jack. I I appreciate everyone feeling the feels with me. It really, it really did mean a lot. I felt a lot of love after that one, and uh I couldn't agree with you more. I would definitely trade those two world titles for that one win. Absolutely, 100%. Like it was up there with one of the best wins of my whole career in life, for sure.

SPEAKER_03 49:01

I agree.

SPEAKER_04 49:02

Yeah, and then you just didn't stop and you just pretty much it's it was almost like you surfed one contest through all the way to El Salvador. That's what it looked like. It's like, oh, like you you're just not stopping. It's just one flow state. Is that how it felt?

SPEAKER_00 49:17

I was very surprised El Salvador worked out because I was not a favorite, favorite in the free surfs. And I think when you come off like an event like New Zealand, you're like, oh, do I still have that magic to make it happen again? But at that point, I was like, honestly, like the biggest goal for me this year was to just make some heats. And if I could win one comp, I would just be so stoked. And so I kind of felt like the pressure that I had put on myself was off. And so I went into El Salvador and I was just like, hey, whatever happens, it's like I'm already winning. I'm already so stoked. And it just kind of like, I don't know, just took it one heat at a time and it ended up like happening again.

SPEAKER_04 49:57

Well, yeah, you had that um last minute air too. Respect. Um thank you. That was so big. That must have felt pretty good.

SPEAKER_00 50:07

I haven't done one of those in a really long time. So to do it and under like a minute when I needed a score, I was like, oh my gosh, mama still got it.

SPEAKER_04 50:17

That's a little flex from the younger generation for you. I still got it. Oh, that's awesome. So right now is a halfway point of the year.

SPEAKER_00 50:28

Yep. Yep. That's right.

SPEAKER_04 50:30

So how the oh my gosh. And there's no is there finals again this year, or is it no LBA?

SPEAKER_00 50:38

No finals.

SPEAKER_04 50:40

Okay. Well, let's go, Res.

SPEAKER_03 50:44

Yeah, leading into that, like, so just hearing you speak then, so like your expectations were pretty low coming into the year, and now all of a sudden you're in a position for a world title strike. Like, where's your mind sit now?

SPEAKER_00 50:58

Well, I mean, I think that's where I'm everyone like slow down, slow down. We still have six events left, guys. Like, and especially like obviously it's so cool. Like, I never, I don't know, I just didn't think I was ever gonna be in this position again. And to be in this position again is the raddest thing ever, to feel all the feel, the excitement. So awesome. Um, and obviously, I'm like, I'd love to just I just want to give my best for the next six events, but let's like be realistic here. Okay, like we have Tahiti, we have Fiji, we have super tubes in Portugal, and then we have pipe. So, like these are four pretty gnarly waves. And like I said before, just that I have not spent a lot of time in the last two years surfing these types of waves. So um yeah, I don't want to put extra pressure on myself. I'd love to surprise myself. I would, that would be great, but I've already um to come back as a mom and figure out how to balance it all and somehow win two events, um, it's already been so cool. So just to be a part of the mix is is awesome.

SPEAKER_04 52:09

I don't believe it for a second. I think you're burning to win the title again.

SPEAKER_03 52:15

I I think, yeah, I yeah, I I kind of got that feeling as well. Um, but like yeah, it's cool. I feel like you've you've got um like I don't know, you've just got this feeling about you right now where you're just like showing up to have a really good time. And I think that's gonna translate I think you are gonna surprise yourself how the back year the back half of the year goes.

SPEAKER_00 52:39

Thanks. Thanks you guys. I I do appreciate thanks for believing in me.

SPEAKER_04 52:44

Yeah, we got you. You you do well in heavy waves too, and you don't know what the conditions would be like. Yeah. Oh, that's amazing. Well, is there anything else before we let you go? Jack, do you anything else?

SPEAKER_03 52:58

I've got a million more questions about parenthood and all that stuff, but I I'm I I think she's she's yeah, she's answered more than enough. Uh Riz, it was so good to catch up and talk and I know. We gotta we'll have to actually like just just support from a distance. So we just mean Albie always kind of messaging each other like Riz, Riz, Riz. And it's just yeah, it's very cool.

SPEAKER_00 53:23

Thanks so much. Well, we can we should all just grab a coffee or a matcha or something and continue the conversation then.

SPEAKER_03 53:31

Oh yeah, that would be cool. I'll bring my maniac kids and uh yes, that'd be great. My roommate.

SPEAKER_00 53:40

I'll be on are you going to to to have some minis running around?

SPEAKER_04 53:45

Oh man, I mean, my girlfriend's one question to you was how to surf a shortboard with the bump.

SPEAKER_01 53:50

So she's planting the seed. Probably she's planting the seed.

SPEAKER_04 53:56

I thought about that after and I was hung up. I was like, oh, I don't see what you're doing there. Um day soon. I'm in no rush. But yeah, I also have four nieces and nephews that I'm really close to, so I got like a dose of it. So I've I've got to watch, yeah, for the last nine years, four of them. Oh my gosh, they're a lot. Four kids is a lot. I bet it's been it's been fun to watch, and I yeah, I get a good dose of babysitting them and taking them in the water and all that. So I'm in no rush. Maybe when I hang up my jaws metaphorical jersey.

SPEAKER_01 54:35

Okay. Thank you so much, Risp.

SPEAKER_03 54:38

We know we know the time is precious, especially right now. So nap time, and you got a big afternoon ahead of you, I'm sure.

SPEAKER_00 54:47

Well, thank you both, and sending you guys lots of love to Alana I said hi.

SPEAKER_04 54:51

I will, for sure. Can't wait to watch you the rest of the year and tell the family hello.