Healthy Skin: The Truth About Cleansing, Antioxidants & SPF | Dr Oli Curwen | MHBL Talks Ep.2

In this episode, you'll learn:

What healthy skin really looks like
The science behind glowing, healthy skin
How oxidative stress silently damages your skin
Why antioxidants are essential for skin health
Why SPF is one of the most important skincare products you'll ever use
What happens to your skin at a cellular level from everyday UV exposure
The everyday habits that help support healthier skin
Throughout the conversation, we also explore the importance of combining effective skincare ingredients to support hydration, strengthen the skin barrier and maintain healthier-looking skin over time.

Featured skincare discussed:

Filorga Skin-Prep AHA Cleansing Gel
Filorga Hydra-AOX [5] Intensive Antioxidant Serum
Filorga Daily Repair Mineral UV50
What was your biggest takeaway from today's conversation? Let us know in the comments below.

If you enjoyed this episode, don't forget to Like, Subscribe, and turn on notifications so you never miss future conversations with leading experts in health, aesthetics and skincare.

Transcript

SPEAKER_00 0:00

Welcome to Metro Health and BB Talks episode 2. I'd like to introduce Dr. Oli Cohen. He is a London-based surgical and aesthetics practitioner and founder of Dr. Olly Aesthetics. Dr. Oli, welcome to episode 2.

SPEAKER_01 0:15

Thank you so much for having me. Excited to talk about all things that make skin healthy and how to get that glow.

SPEAKER_00 0:21

So today's topic, the science behind healthy skin, ingredients that work, medical grade skincare, and daily habits that make a difference. So we're going to be discussing healthy skin. I have a few questions.

SPEAKER_01 0:38

What does healthy skin actually look like? I mean you'll know it when you see it. Healthy skin is glowing skin. What does that mean? It means not too much redness, it means clear texture, not massive pores, no spots, no breakouts. It's basically you think of that silky, smooth baby skin, that's healthy skin. That's what we want to achieve. So what creates glowing skin? That's a good question. It's about protection and it's about repair. Our skin turns over about every 28 to 32 days. So think about once a month you are shedding your skin. So you need to make sure you're restoring it, you're providing it with the materials it needs to keep growing and keep repairing. So what's the biggest skincare mistake? To be honest, the biggest skincare mistake is doing too much too quickly. Your skin is sensitive. It's also our biggest organ. It's responding to everything we do. And so mixing too many products, too many things, too many factors all in one go just will cause a breakout because your skin will stress out. So you want to take it slowly, you want good quality ingredients, and also just follow the advice of someone who knows what they're doing, be that a company or a doctor.

SPEAKER_00 1:56

Are there any everyday habits that people underestimate that make a mess a massive difference to your skin?

SPEAKER_01 2:03

Absolutely. So preparing your skin is really, really important. So that's where actually we talk about cleansers. A lot of people just think that cleansing your face means washing your face with water. That is not the way to do it. Particularly at the moment, we're seeing a big hype towards double cleansing. So making sure that you're using something like an oil-based cleanser first, so like the filoga oil-based cleanser. That oil gets rid of the dirt and the grease and the makeup through the day. But then you need to think of cleanser as a way to prime your skin. And so how do you do that? You do your second cleanse. So that's something like the Filoga AHA cleanser, which is emulsifying. It's a foam, so it gets rid of the oil to prevent spot buildup, things like that. But actually, it's giving your skin the chance to shed a little bit easier and get that fresh, healthy skin out more quickly.

SPEAKER_00 2:55

So which factors have the biggest impact on skin health? Is it genetics? Is it lifestyle? What would you say?

SPEAKER_01 3:03

It's a combination of everything. Now, because we have that combination, there's some in our control and some out of it. So genetics, yeah, it's great. Some people have genetically good skin. Does that mean that someone has poor genetics doesn't get good skin? No. It just means we need to take more control of the things we can control. So that is lifestyle. It's about making sure that when you're in the sun, you're wearing SPF. It's making sure you're prepping, priming your skin. It's your diet. Everything you do has an impact on your skin. And so it's how do we optimize that so we get the best results?

SPEAKER_00 3:36

So we have a product here. It's the Faloga Skin Prep. It has AHA. That's one of the ingredients right now, which you know helps cleanse your skin and gives that glow-in effect. I mean, you would know more than me, but this is a uh cleanser. Can you describe a little bit about the AHJ?

SPEAKER_01 3:58

Yeah, so AHA. So that's alpha hydroxy acids. What that means is that this is an acid cleanser, which the point is to break up the glue that holds dead skin together. We all have this sort of layer of dead skin on top of our face, and that's what makes skin look a bit dull and a bit colourless. To get the glow, we need to get rid of that layer, that film on top. So this is where AHA really comes into its own. It dissolves that glue to allow us to shed that skin a bit more quickly. So it's a bit like a gentle exfoliator, but at the same time, it's stimulating growth.

SPEAKER_00 4:31

Okay. And obviously, we've discussed why cleansing is important, but AHA is typically that ingredient where a lot of products, uh skincare products, don't have it. So you would recommend this product to your patients?

SPEAKER_01 4:51

Absolutely. I think having a good AHA, so that's the different type of acids in here, actually, the phyllogon hits all three. So it means that you're getting a superficial, a mid-depth, and a deep cleansing and exfoliating action. I would suggest using this after something like an oil cleanser. So having the two together in your cupboard like this is the best way to do it. So you get rid of all the dirt and the debris, the pollution from the day, and then you use this to really stimulate your skin, clear the skin cells itself, and neutralize the oil to make sure that you don't get breakouts down the line.

SPEAKER_00 5:30

So now we're going to be speaking about the invincible damage. Why antioxidants matter? So I just want to start by saying what are antioxidants?

SPEAKER_01 5:40

So antioxidants, they are basically the sacrificial lamp. They are the products that we need that sacrifice themselves to pollution, to UV damage, the radiation in the air, so that our skin doesn't. So antioxidants are really important at preventing what we call free radicals from causing oxidative stress, which effectively means being out and about, being exposed to smoking, pollution, sun, UV, all of that is trying to damage our skin. And so the antioxidants act as a barrier. They sacrifice themselves while themselves also producing products that improve our skin health. So what's the um early warning signs that people should look out for? So whenever we think about antioxidants and what you see on a lot of packaging, they talk about wrinkles and sun damage. Those are late signs. So actually, by the time we're seeing those sort of sunspots, we're 20, 30 years down the line from free radical damage. What we're looking for is redness. Irritation when you're applying skincare products to your skin shouldn't be a thing. We shouldn't feel stinging. That's a sign that we're starting to get damage. That is the point that you need a good antioxidant to help you prepare and repair your skin.

SPEAKER_00 6:57

So where do antioxidants fit into a skincare routine? This is something that a lot of people get wrong.

SPEAKER_01 7:04

So ideally, you want to cleanse your face first. So get rid of the makeup, clear your skin, prime the skin, and then you're using your antioxidant serum. So you're applying a couple of drops and you let it sink in. Don't rush then into applying a moisturizer. And so it's that little bit of time that allows the antioxidants to provide a little film across the top layer, and that is what's going to act on those three radicals.

SPEAKER_00 7:32

So we have a product here, it's the Faloga Hydra AOX. And this is a serum. Could you tell us a little bit more about this product and what it does?

SPEAKER_01 7:43

Yeah, so I mean the Hydra AOX is really it's actually a great product because the hydro part is saying that it's containing your hyaluronic acid. So that's what is moisturizing and hydrating the skin. Your AOX is referring to antioxidants. Now, the phalorga one is quite special because it contains your vitamin B, your vitamin C, which is an antioxidant, and your vitamin E, which is a fat-dependent antioxidant, which not many products have. Interestingly, it also contains something called ergothione, which is something that our body doesn't produce. But what that does, it's an antioxidant, sacrifices itself, but at the same time is what we call a tyroxinase inhibitor, and that is stopping your cells producing too much pigment. So, as well as being an antioxidant, preventing against sun damage, it is telling your cells to chill out and it's calming your skin while protecting it. So, how do antioxidant serums work? So, antioxidant serums, they come in a dropper, they're really nice and easy to use. You literally have a tiny pipette, you've got about three drops, that should cover your face and an extra drop for your neck. Don't forget the neck. It's a really nice, simple, clear film that goes onto the skin and it's just your extra barrier. But this one is special because it's also gonna hydrate. Okay.

SPEAKER_00 9:08

So why include one daily?

SPEAKER_01 9:10

After that, why not? I mean, it's got everything you need, it's got the ingredients, and it's protecting you against just being out and about. Unfortunately, the air that we now live in is trying to kill you. This is protecting you.

SPEAKER_00 9:26

So now we're gonna talk about protecting your skin. SPF is often described as one of the most important products in the day. So why is SPF essential?

SPEAKER_01 9:36

It's a good question. A lot of people sort of go, okay, yeah, you always need to wear your SPF 50, but why? And as soon as we step outside, even if it's a cloudy day, there is UV. UV radiation is causing damage to our cells, it causes inflammation. And as part of that, we've got this new term on the block called inflammaging, which is a mix of inflammation that is leading to aging. So UV in the air attacks the skin, it makes our collagen brittle and fibrous and it cracks, and it means that we go from soft nice skin to wrinkles and lines, but also pain. And so SPF is to protect us from that. What happens inside the skin? So the UV hits it. The first thing it does is it causes that collagen to become brittle. It snaps. So rather than collagen being nice and soft and bouncy, hopefully bouncy on my skin, um, it starts to break and it falls apart. And it then allows more damage, it causes those cracks, the fine lines, the crepiness of skin. But as well as that, you get what we call the free radical impact. So UV affects the mitochondria in the cell, it affects how our cells can repair itself. So not only is it damaging, it's turning down our repair factors, and it increases then things like skin cancer on top of all the aging effects. So does uh sun damage build with time? Absolutely. So if you think about it, it's just as you go out, the sun damage is slowly going to increase. You go to bed that that night, your body goes into repair mode, but repair has been slowed down by the sun damage. So we need to be really conscious about how much exposure we have to the sun and what we can do to improve our repair mechanisms.

SPEAKER_00 11:24

So most brands now are combining UV protection with skincare ingredients. Is that the direction that skincare is going in? Absolutely.

SPEAKER_01 11:34

Yeah, I think SPF is fundamental to skincare, right? You can do whatever you want. You can see your doctors for laser injections. If you're not wearing SPF, all of that is a waste of money. So incorporating that in part of your daily routine is fundamental. So why modern SPF formulas? Modern SPF formulas, particularly ones that contain other ingredients despite just having the sun protection factors, they are there for that repair mechanism. Yes, we know that we can slow down the amount of UV actually hitting the skin cells, but it's repair. Repair is what is going to make us look and feel young, but also prepare the skin for another 30, 40, 60 years out in the sun.

SPEAKER_00 12:20

So there's a lot of, you know, skincare experts online. And now that we have the opportunity, what's the one myth you would like to just, you know, debunk?

SPEAKER_01 12:31

Okay, so firstly, the fact that SPF means that you're not getting your vitamin D. You are. So there are people that go out and say, oh, I'm not, I'm gonna have 20 minutes, 30 minutes without SPF. They go out in the sun, they bake, and then they feel red and sore, and they get sunburnt, and they get the skin damage, and they go, oh well, at least my vitamin D is good. You get vitamin D with your SPF, so wear it, wear it properly.

SPEAKER_00 12:55

So one of our products is the Faloga Daily Repair Mineral UV 50. This isn't your normal sunscreen. It's green and it has this tint.

SPEAKER_01 13:09

The main focus of this is that it is called a daily repair UV. So, as I've kept banging on about, it's not just about sun protection, which it has obviously it's factor 50, but it's about the repair. So, what is that? It contains the ceramides that you need that link our cells together again that the sun damages. So that ceramide is a fatty layer that protects us, it bounces us, it cushions us, and helps our repair mechanism. Now, the green tint here is actually to reduce redness. So where we are getting inflammation, this calms it down. Visibly, the green cancels out the red. And so it's making our skin look and feel healthier while also giving us the repair mechanisms that we need.

SPEAKER_00 13:54

So this product, there's uh there's a few ingredients in it. There's uh ceramides, amino acids, and syntella acetica. So, what are the benefits of them free?

SPEAKER_01 14:05

I mean, as I said, the ceramides is the fatty layer that is helping us repair our skin. So that is where our cells are breaking apart. Ceramides are there to protect us, it provides that cushion. The amino acids are there to help provide our skin with the molecules it needs to repair. So while we're stimulating repair, you can't repair if you don't have the building box to do it. That's what the amino acids are there for. The centella is a really nice additional product that just calms down inflammation. So whenever we're outside, whenever we're exposed to UV, the skin responds by getting just a little bit angry, a little bit upset. It calms it down, reassures it, and tells it to keep going, keep repairing, while the SPF reduces our exposure to free radicals.

SPEAKER_00 14:52

If someone wanted to start improving their skin today, but they feel overwhelmed by all the information and the options available, what would you say to them? How should they begin?

SPEAKER_01 15:04

It's a really good question. It is overwhelming at the moment when you're going into, I don't know, your local pharmacy, your supermarket, you go online, you go into Google and you chat GPT it. The options are endless, and it's about working out. Firstly, find a person or a company that has good reviews, someone that you can rely on. So, for example, me in clinic, I'd say, and that they can help guide you through it. You they can tailor products to you. Your first step is identifying your information source properly. Everyone's skin is different, everyone needs different ingredients, and everyone reacts differently. It's annoying, there's too much choice, so go and find an expert. So, what's one skincare lesson everyone should remember? The one skincare lesson that I hope that everyone on this podcast will also say is SPF, SPF, SPF. That is the fundamental. Now, I love this floral one because it's not just SPF, right? It goes beyond that. The sun is causing UV damage. We know that. It's causing immediate damage, long-term damage, and then also the risk of skin cancer. We need to protect against that, and we need to re help our skin repair itself. So that is the one thing to take away. If you're doing anything, spending any money, get a good SPF and reapply it.

SPEAKER_00 16:29

So I was always under the impression that, you know, I've been living in London for many years. As you can see today, the weather is is is grey, it's cloudy. So in my head, in all honesty, I was always under the impression that I don't need to wear SPF every day. Why would I? I mean, now I know.

SPEAKER_01 16:46

Now you know. You go outside, yes, it's cloudy. Can you still see? I can, yeah. There is daylight, which means there is UV, right? So the clouds do not filter out the UV that is actually causing the damaging aging effects, but also burning. So if I get up in the morning and it is light outside, which it is every morning, SPF goes on. Even then, I go into my clinic, I go to an operating theater, I'm inside all day, just on that short stint, going in and out, being outside, I wear SPF because it's just a habit you don't want to break. Could you tell us a little bit more about your clinics? My clinics, they are based in central London, one in Soho, one in Marlebone. And you come in, everyone is treated as an individual. So you might come in and go, Do you know what? I just look or feel a bit dull, look a bit tired. Some people in the office have asked if I don't sleep well, that kind of thing. I'm not saying you do. Yeah, yeah. But it's it's one of those things that everyone comes in with a concern, right? You come in with a concern, we sit down, you spend an hour going through just your skincare, your concerns, and a plan. Quite often we'll discuss different skincare products. I'll give some recommendations, I might give some samples if I'm feeling nice. Get you to try them, and then we talk about the injectables, we talk about laser, how we can do everything together. But there's no point doing the expensive stuff unless you get your daily routine under control.

SPEAKER_00 18:18

So the first step for someone who's new to skincare would be the routine of putting SPF, washing your face daily, before you do anything expensive or you go into, you know, that's it.

SPEAKER_01 18:30

Yeah, absolutely. So when you're starting, you want to make sure you're doing the fundamentals right.

SPEAKER_00 18:34

Yes.

SPEAKER_01 18:35

This is like me saying, I want to get fit, so I'm gonna pay for a celebrity personal trainer to start training me. What's the point if I've not actually started going, I need to buy the gym kit, I need to buy a gym membership, I need to start eating properly. All of those things are really important before then you go and spend the money. Don't miss out the steps. It's a building block and it's a ladder. So getting your fundamentals down, make it work.

SPEAKER_00 19:04

So for for everyone watching, there's there's no shortcuts. And we live in the in the day and age where we want results quick.

SPEAKER_01 19:12

Yeah, we want results quickly, right? And you can get results quickly. If you want something that gives your skin an instant glow, you want something with good vitamin C content that within a week or so is going to start improving your skin. So that would be your Hydra AOX serum. You want something that reduces your redness straight away, go for something green. So you've got your SPF. There are quick fixes, but the long-term game is a long-term game. We want to make our skin work for us and be in its best condition for as long as possible.

SPEAKER_00 19:45

Dr. Oli, thank you so much for joining us today and sharing your expertise. Today's conversation shows that healthy skin isn't just about chasing trends and using countless products. It's it's about understanding your skin and what works and what doesn't. And you know, the key takeaways are, you know, antioxidants, daily SPFs. What else would you would you like to tell our listeners?

SPEAKER_01 20:10

Firstly, I guess, is choose a right product for you. If you don't know, ask someone. Come and see me in clinic, speak to me, we'll do a video consultation, we'll just tap through it. It's it's very easy when you've got a guide. Navigating this world by yourself is daunting and it's overwhelming, and there's also just too much information out there. My takeaway, the one thing, is SPF, SPF, SPF. Reapply it and put enough on as well.

SPEAKER_00 20:36

Perfect. Thank you all for listening to the Metro Health and Beauty Talks. This was episode two. And if you'd like to learn more about the Faloga range featured in today's episodes, visit cotessentials.com and don't forget to follow us for more expert conversations and skincare education. Dr.

SPEAKER_01 20:53

Oli, thank you again. Thank you so much. I'm actually gonna take this with me.

SPEAKER_00 20:57

Enjoy.