theDIHEDRAL Podcast

Aubrey Hodges - 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell

July 30, 2019 theDIHEDRAL Season 1 Episode 101
theDIHEDRAL Podcast
Aubrey Hodges - 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
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theDIHEDRAL Podcast
Aubrey Hodges - 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
Jul 30, 2019 Season 1 Episode 101
theDIHEDRAL

Iconic rock-climber Aubrey Hodges joins us for a discussion about her exhilarating, limit pushing, and record-breaking experiences at the enduring annual classic "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell".  Find out what it takes to compete, and feel what it takes to find your name at the top of the record book!

Hosts: Casen and Carrot

Producers: Clay Burkhard, Gaia, High-Clip

Climb-ON

Show Notes Transcript

Iconic rock-climber Aubrey Hodges joins us for a discussion about her exhilarating, limit pushing, and record-breaking experiences at the enduring annual classic "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell".  Find out what it takes to compete, and feel what it takes to find your name at the top of the record book!

Hosts: Casen and Carrot

Producers: Clay Burkhard, Gaia, High-Clip

Climb-ON

spk_1:   0:12
All right. Hey, guys, this is the day he drove Podcast. We're here with Cason Carrot. We're here with producers, Guy A and Clay and welcome here with Aubrey Hodges. She's the record holder for the most female Trad climbs at Horseshoe Hell in 24 hours. Welcome, Aubrey.

spk_2:   0:30
Thanks so much for having me.

spk_0:   0:32
I just want to say this before we get started. Aubrey is sincerely the nicest person I've ever met in my entire life. So not only is she the stick is climber that I've known and one of the most interesting people. She's seriously the nicest person I've ever met. When I was a little kid, I was taught by a nun by the name of Sister Regina. And we were poor. Sister Regina went out of her way to raise thousands of dollars for my family. That woman is a horrible person. Compared Aubrey Hodges. Is that a real story? Sister Regina, is that there? Is that a real story? That is a true story. Operates the nicest

spk_2:   1:10
I have to say. That's just like your opinion. Men. Thank you so much. That's, like, extremely kind.

spk_0:   1:17
Thank you all very.

spk_1:   1:18
Anyway. So, uh, we just kind of wanna have you take us through horseshoe hell. And so my first question was, was it hot?

spk_2:   1:26
Um, this

spk_0:   1:27
year

spk_2:   1:27
was not actually, it was beautiful. Weather was, like, funny kind of overcast at parts. Um, like, didn't get warmer than, like, 65 70 degrees. So wasn't is hottest. I expected it to be in hell.

spk_0:   1:43
So before we get too far into things, there's a couple things were hoping we could explain to the listeners one. Could you just explain what 24 hours of horseshoe hell is where it is and what it means?

spk_2:   1:55
Yeah, OK, eso. This event takes place in Jasper, Arkansas, which is honestly the middle of nowhere, Um, at a little kind of a dude ranch called the Horseshoe Canyon. Um, and it's kind of what it sounds like. It's 24 hours straight of rock climbing where people attempt kind of different goals anywhere from, like getting us many pitches then, as they can, Teoh climbing as many five sevens as they can or um, climbing is like many difficult routes as they can because, ah, the heart of the route is the more points, it's worse. So it's kind of like different goals. People have it this event and kind of different, like awards and categories. Um, yeah, just like this big wacky climbing event where people dress up and you see anything from like guys And like man's songs and fishnets toe like women. I don't know what, like crazy, like hair and, like diet armed. It's

spk_0:   2:50
just, like kind of a

spk_2:   2:51
lackey like, um, competition slash festival slash big party at the end

spk_0:   2:57
so Cason would fit right in after, Sure. Oh,

spk_1:   3:01
you can't see me right now, but my armpits are died

spk_0:   3:04
and fishnets air fresh. Yeah, he looks wonderful. All right, so you broke the record for trad climbing in 24 hours. Can you explain to the listeners who might not know the difference between sport climbing and tread climbing what that means?

spk_2:   3:18
Yeah, absolutely. It's kinda in outdoor climbing. There's a few different styles of routes there, some where they're fixed bolts on anchors on routes. I'm that you kind of clip in with removable gear, but there's like fixed protection on the route, and that's called sport climbing. Tried climbing is where you don't have that you're following the natural features in the rock, which usually weaknesses such as cracks or, um, kinda little pockets and stuff. And you're placing removable gear, so gear that you can place on your way up and remove and clean on your way down. So it's not permanent. Uh, and they call this trotter tradition traditional climbing. Um, and so the record that I said it was for the most trad pitches completed by a female for the comp. The previous records did it like, 124 and I got 136 so I just kind of squeaked right past

spk_0:   4:11
it. Yes, that's ridiculous. We looked at the second place finisher who got how many climbs casing?

spk_1:   4:18
Yes. So I think she was, like, 50 climbs behind behind your, you know, like you blew her out of the water. So I was like, you put up a number that she didn't want to try and be.

spk_2:   4:29
Yeah, yeah. I mean, a lot of that. I really have to give credit to my partner, because through this comp, big thing is partnership. So you're not doing this on your own. You're doing this with one partner the whole time. Um, and Yeah, my partner Inking, um, like you'd shout out. And thanks to him, like, I would not have been able to do this without his help. He had done this competition a couple years and before, so he had kind of a good game plan, and he really knew where the routes were. Kind of how to, like, go Adam on also, like, kind of how to get prepared for it. Um, so, yeah, he was He was a huge help. I think that was That was really my edge. Um, over kind of previous records and other females that were kind of going for the same thing, which, as a team, I thought what we did was, like way more incredible than what I did as an individual. We got 276 pitches as a team. So he climbed 140 which was a record for him, um, personally. And then I got 136 so yeah, it was was a big day. Yeah. So fun.

spk_1:   5:30
My question is so before the before, Like it the horseshoe hell, before the 24 hours Was it like, who am I going to choose to be my partner. Did it just kind of naturally happen?

spk_2:   5:42
Oh, man, this is a really good story. So, actually, um uh, Ian owns a mobile racial re solely company. So he travels around in his van like towing a trailer. He sets up shop like different climbing gyms. Almony resold shoes. So I met him in Flagstaff, where it had kind of lived for the previous four years for college. Ah, when he came through town in the re, sold a pair of my shoes like he did a kick ass job. Like it was like getting a brand new pair of shoes that had, like, I had

spk_1:   6:11
holes all the way through them

spk_2:   6:12
Just was like, Man, this guy's, like, super legit. Um, and then he's like, Oh, I think I'm going climbing to some people at this area called Winslow Wall, which is just incredible, like one in this beautiful crags have ever been Teoh own. Is that cool? Yeah, i'll be there. Um, so they met up and he did some climbing and actually the extent of projects that I have been working on, so it's like having just awesome day. And then he got on Ah, the same routes called hanging judge, just like this kind of thing. Crack climb. Um And he took a really big fall and I was blaming him and he just, like, pulled me really hard into the walks. He weighs a bit more than I dio and I, like sliced open my leg. Um, and I ended up having to get, like, 24 or 25 stitches. Something like that. Um and I had to get, like, hauled out of the canyon. That's like a repellents. We can't just, like, walk out of the canyon like you climb out side to get, like, hauled out with, like, ropes and different systems, like people had to help and it was ridiculous. And then we, like, drove like, an hour back to Flagstaff and was like, OK, I need to go to the ER like like I had, like, a hole in my leg. Um, but we, like, went in like, picked up some cheeseburgers and milkshakes first. And then we went to the ER, and that was the only time in, and I had climbed together before this competition. So it was It was pretty funny, because you're like Well, the last time did not go well. But I think through that, um, really kind of saw me as a valuable partner because I, like, didn't really freak out about it the whole time. Like, I honestly just had this nasty hole in my leg. And I was like, It's cool like it happened. Whatever. Like, we're just gonna get through this. And, like, wasn't really, like tearing up or freaking out or anything that he's like Seems like messed up enoughto be be good

spk_0:   7:51
at this other thing. So, yeah, perfect. Just assigned to summarize He almost killed you and your like, you know, it's a good idea to claim that this man for 24 straight hours placing here, Yeah, makes sense. Yeah, definitely. So did

spk_1:   8:09
you Have you climbed with him like any more since then?

spk_2:   8:11
Yeah, actually. Ah, few trips. I met him out and shot, and you go for thanksgiving. And then, um, we I like throughout to North Carolina. Kind of where he's from and spends part of his year at. Um I climbed it like rumbling bald. In some places, they're kind of right before Christmas. Yeah. So who sent? Spend some quality time. Not suffering again. Yeah. So we're

spk_0:   8:34
gonna get into the day and just a couple minutes, but I want to ask a couple of questions ahead of time. Did you train at all specifically to climb through 24 hours, or did you just approach it in?

spk_2:   8:46
Um, it depends what you mean

spk_0:   8:48
by

spk_2:   8:48
training. I, like started running, like, two weeks before this, and at the gym, I would just, like, try and get a bunch of pitches in, Like before Cyprus opened. We had, like, some routes out, and I just climbed, like, all the routes downstairs, like at least trying like even the hard won just like trying to get up them. Um, but that was probably like a week before, so I don't think it really counts. But maybe mentally, it helped me be. Honestly, I I didn't do anything physically for, um have had some really big days out climbing where I was, like on routes that were, like, 14 pitches, like with, like, five pitches of 5 12 on them, and, like, gnarly approaches and stuff. Um, so I kind of just like compared this competition to previous experiences like climbing and red rocks or in your 70? Just like cool. I know it's gonna be a big day and like you just you just go and do it. You just, like, kind of suck it up and pretend like you're having fun and just keep going. So yeah,

spk_0:   9:48
and it's not. Not everybody can get in. There's a lottery process to get in, right?

spk_2:   9:52
Yeah. Um, I got again. Ah, Ian, it was, ah, vendor for the event cause he kind of was picking up shoes That the event is was gave some, like prizes that were, like, a gift certificate for a free re soul. So we got in cause he's a vendor. Um, so, yeah,

spk_0:   10:10
are listed. So it's It's the night before. You're about to climb for 24 straight hours, but the person who the last time you met him almost killed you. Um, what's happening when you go to bed? Um, I I was feeling a

spk_2:   10:26
lot of different things. Um, yeah, like we had we'd spent the whole day kind of preparing for it. We stashed water and food and ropes and racks can all over the different spots. When you were gonna hate causes Kenyans kind of like a u shape. So it kind of each main while weed stash like and all that stuff so we wouldn't have to carry very much with us with us. Um, so I kind of like that made me feel pretty prepared, But I was, like, already kind of like super emotional going into this event because I kind of had some, like, personal stuff going on before that. And, uh, yeah, like, sent me up to kind of be in a really weird place. Um, it wasn't like the most positive for sure about how everything was gonna go. Like, I kind of had The mindset were like, I'm gonna try and do this and see what happens. And, um, no matter what happens, I'm just gonna support you and make sure that he, like, gets in as many routes as he can because, like, not like bail on my partner. No matter how I'm feeling us, that was kind of like, OK, like, I try my best. And if I just can't do it, then I'm just gonna support again. So, yeah, I wasn't I wasn't too certain about anything going into this

spk_1:   11:32
awesome. So um, I guess that kind of leads me to. My next question is, do you want tell us a bit a little bit about, Like, what led up to that headspace that you were in before you went into this, Like, insane day?

spk_2:   11:45
Yeah. Um, it was really crazy. Ah. Um, my mom had been fighting an illness for a really long time. She's, like, diagnosed with, like, a last lingering disease when I was, like, 11. Um, and she actually passed away a month before this event. Um, and it was something I had, like, talk to her about quite frequently. And like, I think I'm gonna let go in, like, try and set this record and do this And like, she was just so excited for me. Um, yeah, kind of like with her passing. Ah, And it was expected, but unexpected. Um, like she was kind of had been, like looking up for a few days and like her eyes were clear. And like she just like looking better and happier and like, had, like, more of a will to live unlike previous months. So it was like I really like hit hard when she did pass because it was like one morning she just wasn't there anymore. Um, and yeah, it's been it's been really weird, and it still is really weird, but, um, each day gets a little bit easier, but yeah. So my mindset going into this says I was honestly, still in shock. Like, uh, I wasn't I wasn't feeling very much like I was kind of in the stage of grief for him. Like, Is any of this riel? I'm just, like, kind of floating through life at that point. But yes, it was set it up to be just kind of all around a crazy experience for me that ultimately ended up really Well,

spk_1:   13:08
yeah, I definitely want to get into that that mindset more, but I think I wanna want to save it. So talk about I just kind of want we kind of want to take this hour by hour, break down. Almost. So what? What is it? Do they lined you up at the beginning with, like, a ribbon and like, a starting line. And they said go and they fire a gun or like, how did it start?

spk_2:   13:29
Okay, so, uh, we put on our sort of wacky costumes. We had like Lyon shirts because one of their big things is like the catch phrases like be a line in the field of lions. Um, and they kind of get everyone together in, like, this main field area outside of like the outpost And Jeremy Collins. He's like a professional climber slash artist slash wacky personality. Um, he kind of like like lead this marching band from, like the local high school through

spk_0:   13:58
the crowd of

spk_2:   13:59
people including, like the men and, like, songs and stuff These poor high school kids, Um, from my conservative Arkansas, Yeah. Ah, And so this marching bands like, came through and then, like the kind of, like, one over some vague rules And like love, all you guys have all read the book by now, if you haven't like too late, um and then you do like you face your partner and you, like, put up like one hand like Scout's honor. And you have, like, a partner like promise that like Jeremy leads you through like partner like I will not drop you like partner. I will. I will still be laughing that your stupid jokes at 2 a.m. like just all this, like, silly stuff. Um, And then from there at 10 a.m. Guy fires a shotgun, and that indicates you have until 10 a.m. On Saturday. Um, toe complete is many. Ralitzer. It's hard of routes or whatever. Your goal is for the comp. Yeah.

spk_0:   14:51
All right, so that goes off. Can you explain? A what? What you ate before? Hands like, what kind of food did you kind of carb up on? Or however you did it and then go through right through your first climb? Like did you know it climbing? We're gonna do first. Did you have a gear in in order and ready to go? And then how are you feeling going into your first climb?

spk_1:   15:13
And did you feel that food in your stomach When you

spk_2:   15:16
Yes. Um, So I ate a breakfast burrito from outposts was pretty good. Um, I definitely did not finish it the next morning. I had like to Ah, but yeah, it was just kind of feeling like weird and like hadn't slapped super well like there's just kind of, like, a lot of like, I don't know, like alertness going on and happening around me. See, at the gun goes off, we take off running, actually, um, to go to, like, the east side of this Kenyan. Um, And we had, like, Fasher gearing me, like, roughly knew what I first route was, um, so we hopped on that and, um, the climbing through this, um, it's not the most safe. Um, like, we're not. This is not a recommended way to do anything like I don't You probably need a warning

spk_0:   16:05
before this morning. Do not try this at the crag. Yeah, please do

spk_2:   16:10
not. Um, but basically. So we get on the first route and Ian leads. It was like placing your in as he goes up. And then, like, I lower him. Um, and he was actually, like, not even tight end, like we had a locker with, like, a like a triple fisherman's at the end of it. So we just like taking turns like clipping in and out of the locker, so it's, like, faster. So I lower him issues his feet touch the ground. Freedom. A bunch of slack. He starts to pull the rope. Um, I like, take the Gregory off, throw it on the ground Um, And then I start pulling the rope, and once I start pulling the rope, he starts climbing. And then I get him on belay before the anchor, and then, like lower and back down, and then we sweat should. Then I do the same thing.

spk_0:   16:52
That's amazing. Did you have to set protection for each Tom?

spk_2:   16:56
No, it's actually the first person set protection. Um, and then whoever was going second just clipped in. So you could pink point there out, rather versus a red point, which is where, like, you're placing your own gear as you go up. This is the gear still tried gear and removable. However, it's already placed in the wall by your partner by me on the way up.

spk_0:   17:19
So in the beginning, when you're kind of fresh and maybe climbing up something below your threshold, do you tend to not places much protection, or do you still place as much as you normally would?

spk_2:   17:31
So, for this event there, most of the trade routes are rated anywhere from five to, um, toe up to 5 11 s 05 11 was like the hardest pitch that we climbed, um, and five to is easiest. Um, but yeah. So most of them are probably more in the like, 56 to 59 range we were. The rule in the comp is you have to place at least two pieces of gear in order for it to count. Otherwise, accounts is a free solo, and there's not like that's not allowed for the clump. Um, so most of our pitches probably had just around two pieces of you

spk_0:   18:07
know, that your weight belt were not that weighted down with gear?

spk_2:   18:10
No. No, we had, like, a pretty light rack because we knew we were going to be moving quite quick and also, um, like, really comfortably like over that terrain that I like climbing a bunch of like, I, um So, yeah, we were We were running it out for sure.

spk_1:   18:26
So the hours are going by, you know, the clock's ticking, and you're moving fast. Were there any close calls?

spk_2:   18:33
Um, no, honestly, zero. Um, there was never a point where I'm, like, felt really run out and felt like I was uncomfortable or scared or thought that I was gonna slip. Um, the only thing I fell on was 5 11 which we'll get to that. Our there's our 18 like, 4 30 in the morning. Um, that was the only thing I fell on. Um, And besides, that was like, No, I felt very comfortable the whole time. I had, um, gone. Ah, few weeks prior, um, to try some of the like 5 10 stuff with Morgan from the gym are wonderful routes, letter slash, coach. Um and so I felt really comfortable on kind of the style of the rock and everything. And another thing are thes white rock climbs or not very tall. Um, like we had a 35 meter rope almost the whole time, except for on the west side of the canyon. And then we had a 50 meter wrote, Um, so none of these air, like, not climbing like 7200 feet with two pieces of gear, climbing like 30 to 40 feet. Um, So that is part of the reason why you're able to, like, get so many pictures in.

spk_1:   19:38
Yeah, but still, I don't think anyone has done any one thing for, like, 24 hours, like, much less rock climbing. You know, that's not only a physical toll, but it's a mental. Told

spk_2:   19:48
you. Absolutely.

spk_0:   19:50
So was there a point reunion sat down here? Like we need to do this many routes per hour if we're gonna break this record?

spk_2:   19:57
Um, yeah. Not exactly. Know, Um, we kind of knew, like, what pace we had to keep. Like, we're really, um, hoping did you get through, like, the east side of the canyon? Because we're just, like, going down the road with routes like just down the wall, like not skipping over anything, Just like anything that was a tried climb. Like we were getting on it. Unless it was, like, 5 12 so, yeah, we're just, like, let's hope that we can finish this around this time and then go to the north 40 and finish that around this time. And, uh, but we didn't really sit down and, like, come up with a new miracle. Like we need to climb exactly 7.5 pitches each per hour, which I think that's what it was. Was like you declined, Like, as a team, like, 14 pitches, um, per hour to get it.

spk_0:   20:43
All right, So you're in our three. You've done 21 routes. How are you feeling? I was feeling

spk_2:   20:49
great, Like in the beginning. I was just feeling amazing. Like we were flying through these routes. Like, um, we probably claimed more at that point. Like we started over the east side of the canyon around say, like we got. Probably did the base started. The first rock climb right at 10. 15 is a little bit of ah, hike which started off as a running and slow. Don't walk. Um, but yeah, I think we were done with the east side of a Kenyan right around like 2:33 p.m. maybe a bit earlier even. And that was, like, 50 year out Jeep routes each. So is

spk_1:   21:27
so as the hours air going by. What was the hour? You think that maybe you hit that first wall like where you started? Think. Okay, I'm getting a little tired.

spk_2:   21:36
Um, I I notice that you knew was feeling not as great. Probably right around 10:30:11 p.m. So kind of right past. Like the 12 hour mark where we were over at the North 40. Um So we've moved on. It was dark. Could have been dark for hours. Um, and it was crowded. There are, like, they limit the number of people that do this calm for a very good reason. Because it's just there's a lot of people, um, and a lot of, like chaos and things that could end up to be not very safe. Um, yeah. So he was kind of getting annoyed with the people around us. Um, and just kind of like a little like, I don't know, tired sounding right around then. And I was still just, like, no, like, let's do it like moose Jaw's handing out bacon, like, just keep going, like, just, like eating and drinking water the whole time. But then, uh, for me Ah, we kind of like we call that the wobble zone. Whenever you started to kind of decline and you were not feeling this good, you started to wobble. Um, so he was, like, in the wall blue zone for a little bit. And then he was on his way out. And then I hit the wall blue zone around 4 30 in the morning when I got on the 5 11 that I had mentioned previously, I don't even remember the name of it was It was like such a dumb bro like it was like overhung like right, trending like 110.7 fives and number ones crack. So it's, like a little bit smaller than your hands. Um, and it makes sense. It's, like, right trending a little bit overhung. Um, you like, don't have very many feet. So just, like, really hard on the arms. And like, at that point, I realized that I had drink way too much Red Bull and not even enough food. I was like, Oh, I'm tired. So that was, like, our 18. I was like, Oh, man. Okay, I'm feeling it. Um, and then from there, it kind of stayed rough, like we had climbed over, um, or read almost had 100 routes at midnight. Um, so we're like, flying, like, going so fast. And then after that, it's like for the next, Like, what was that like, um, math for a midnight dissents was a more hours with eight more hours where it was like it slowed down. So, like in those eight hours, I climbed, like, 36 pitches or a little over that, maybe like, 40 pitches, and then he climbed like, just like, over 40 years ball. So it was like, Yeah, we really slowed down. Um And I mean, part of that is like the routes got taller and a little bit harder, but also like, Yeah, I got really tired at that point. So yeah, I was, like crying on a 57 like, five in the morning, just like this is the hardest thing ever. Um, like, they're these, like, awesome guys. Like I didn't I didn't really know who they were at the time, but then after is like, I weight. Like, I used to climb in and inspire like some guy moved to Colorado but had used to climb at the gym that, like, worked at my Ah, yes. It was, like, really tough for those last few hours. Like you just had to keep going. Um, like, definitely supported, like people around me, like the volunteers. And Ian was just like kulik just got to keep going. Just got to do this, put my head down for a little bit, Like, ignore everything my body's telling me, um, which? Yeah, Just like we just finished as strong as we could. Um, I think like the gun went off like a minute before. Um, like or the sorry minute after I, like, finish my last round like I was, like, taking my shoes off. And we were like packing everything up, um, getting ready to, like, hopefully walk back to turn in our scorecards but turned into a run back bso those last couple hours, Those were those were tough foes

spk_1:   25:13
in the wobbles own the whole time. So basically, what I've learned is all those Red Bull sponsored athletes Don't just drink a Red Bull before there's more. This big,

spk_2:   25:22
you need a little bit more. Maybe the sugar free Red Bull like you wouldn't crashes hard, but but wasn't very excited about. Ask pertains. So I stayed away.

spk_1:   25:31
And then my other question is, um can you Is there a party going on while you're climbing? Yes,

spk_0:   25:38
eso So tell me

spk_1:   25:40
about that. Like you're climbing your dryness, they focus your dogshit tired, you're ready to go lay like your head down on a pillow and you know, in the 10 or whatever, how is that hearing? You know, some trapper remix going up behind you and you're just like out in the dark with a headlamp.

spk_0:   25:58
Um, you can take

spk_2:   26:00
that, like, wanted to ways. So, like, I definitely saw some people who are like super intoxicated is having a great time like love and life. And then the people around them were pissed like they were like, Get out of here like we're trying to get this done like, yeah, like they were just like, super angry about it. But I really come like, followed Ian's lead on this one. Uhm and just, like, chose to have a good attitude about everything. Like things I couldn't control, just like Who cares? Get over it Just got to keep going and, like, pretend to smile or like, just laugh at it or make a ridiculous joke and just have fun. I think that was the biggest thing like that was a big difference. I saw between us and some other teams that were kind of having a process, Um, problems was we were just, like, laughing and joking and like being ridiculous the whole time. Like we just had a really good attitudes, Um, and like the partiers, like we're like would like

spk_0:   26:52
woo with

spk_2:   26:53
a more like, just like have fun and, like, dance first. I can, um So you just like trying to have as much fun as we could, Uh, and like, let go of things were out of our control like crazy drunk, drunk bro's or girls screaming like like cool. They're having fun. I was, like, for them just, like, keep going, keep doing my thing. Yeah.

spk_0:   27:13
So in addition to being whether nice people in the world which we all know now, another thing you guys should probably know about Aubrey is that she enjoys food, Probably more than most people. I, um we were climbing around each other one time, and we don't start off together, But we ended up kind of together, and we were working on this route. That's like a 5 12 or something like that. It wasn't really It's a project for me. I think Aubrey warms up on it, but, um, while she's climbing, I don't know where she pulled it out or she pulled out. It was like a maybe three foot French baguette shock bag was I'm thinking you tele, and she just kept digging it in there as she's like, hang on arm before she goes You've never seen anything is hilarious of the three French bread. So I was wondering, um, as as they're going through the day, what kind of food you have stashed for you. And I'm telling you, like when you watch Aubrey, just look at a piece of bread. It's just like you feel good about Earth and the planet and everything's gonna be all right. Tell us about the food throughout the night and throughout. Okay,

spk_2:   28:23
I was amazing. I completely forgot about that. I didn't have any three foot begets. That was probably what my problem was. I just needed a three foot piece of bread, and then I would have been fine the whole

spk_0:   28:35
time. Broke the record for sure way.

spk_2:   28:40
Um oh, yes. Oh, we stashed, um, some different stuff. And you went from, like, weird bars and jerky and fruit And, like, healthy stuff, too, Like chocolate bars and goldfish and like things that we're gonna make you happy. Um, but we definitely also tried to get some real food into our systems. Like, um, how to go on you was like, there's a bunch of different sponsors for this. About like Patagonia is passing out tacos and, like Musha had bacon. And, like we bought, like, we sent a volunteer to go, like, buy pizza. Um, and like like, we did like a few different things that were, like a kind of it. More like a real meal. Um, so that helped a lot. I think we definitely ate like a bunch of bars and goldfish. Um, in salami was there's a big one.

spk_0:   29:30
It sounds really

spk_2:   29:32
for 30 when I was crying on 57 Just had to eat a chocolate bar.

spk_0:   29:36
Perfect. That's take sometimes so that I'm maybe a more personal note. Was there ever a time when you were climbing where you just thought of your mom? Where is like, Look, we're doing this together.

spk_2:   29:47
Yeah, I can. I felt like I had ah, some different things from her. Like she was just like the strongest person I knew. Like, by far like she had this illness for a really long time and was, like, physically handicapped, um, and, like, really struggling. And I never heard her complain like a little bit at the very end, but like she never complained. Like she was just positive. And, like chose to like, um, be as happy as she could in her situation. So I think definitely, like, learned from that strength from her Acela's. Yeah, I think part of the reason I cracked it like 4 30 in the morning was it was exhaustion. But I think I was also, like, just feeling a lot. And I hadn't been feeling very much up to that point. Um, so I think maybe a little bit of that pressures comes and, like tears And I don't know, uh, different feelings I was having was probably a bit from her.

spk_1:   30:47
So I mean, I think that's definitely something I can relate to because, you know, I've had family members that been lost the disease, and I guess my question would be what would you say to somebody that maybe is going through the same thing? Can't get into horseshoe hell, you know, maybe doesn't have that, like, release that that I'm assuming maybe helped you. What would you What would you say to that person?

spk_2:   31:12
Ask for help. Don't try and do this by yourself. Like people are really strong and really capable on their own. But like, we're better together. Um, and just when you need that friend toe like event to or the friend to just give you a big hug or like bring you talk. It was just like everyone is more loved than what they realize, Um, and just kind of do your best to to realize that a bit more and ask for help and ask for support. And, ah, also express yourself like there's, um, really nothing healthy about holding like your feelings and emotions and just, like experience them. And I think that in itself could be really healing like, ah, Family member puts it is like kind of some of the groups that I feel from time to time. That's like, kind of my way of expressing love for my mom now that she's like, not here to express it. So it's kind of like a weird, almost like frustrated, wayto express love. But it yeah, just like expressing myself asking for help. Those there were some big things I would say for sure,

spk_1:   32:18
and then did did, uh, Ian No, you know what? What had happened? Because it kind of turns into it's kind of cool, because climbing is almost kind of like a metaphor for exactly what you just said. It's you will, you know, find help. You can't do this by yourself. You literally can't do this by yourself. You're there having to rely on your partners, like, find somebody to talk to.

spk_2:   32:37
Yeah, um, honestly, uh, ID, like, posted a little blurb on social media about it, and kind of from that, it was like, Cool. Now, I don't have to tell people all the time because sometimes that's, ah, a weird thing to be like, Hey, like my mom died. Um, like, it's kind of a weird thing to have to express. I'm still getting used to that. Um, yeah, I actually hadn't told him until, like on a stick two weeks before the comp, Maybe even less than that. Um look, I know has had to be, like a like, this is where I'm coming from, and I don't quite know how I'm going to react. I might do really well like this might be a really healing experience for me, or this might be really difficult. Like I am, uh, can't make any promises about what I could do personally, However, like I know, no matter what happens, I'm gonna be able to support you. Um, like, I'm That's just, like, kind of who I am. Like, I I would never I don't wanna bring someone else's experience down because of, like, something that was out of their control. So I'm like, I felt like I could no matter how is feeling, I was gonna be able to, like, control my situation enough to, like, support him as well as I could. And he was like, OK, like, it's cool. Like, we're just gonna do our thing and we're gonna have fun. Like, I don't really care what happens. Like he was just super supported. Like he's He's a wonderful person. Um, yeah. So, yeah, I kind of let him know. I want to say, like, a week or two before

spk_0:   34:06
there's one thing you kind of glossed over, which I think is kind of interesting. The gun goes off toe end the night. You only have 15 minutes to get back or you start losing routes. Is that is that right?

spk_2:   34:18
Yeah. They take away points, like after 15 minutes. Um, he likes start to lose. I don't I don't know how many points that is, but yeah, Jake really have to turn you in your scorecard, then, which there's kind of two different formats s. So there's, like, a paper scorecard, just what we were using. And there's, like, a phone app that also does the scorecard things right. I have to get on the WiFi and, like, turn it in or like, turning hand in your paper scorecard. So, yeah, can I write is the gun went off? We were, like, still packing things up like Okay, cool. Like, time to go. So we literally ran down to, like, turn in our scorecard, and we we made it back with probably, like, at least 5 10 minutes to spare, so we were fine with that, but yeah, we ran back.

spk_0:   35:00
So you under 24 hour climbing with this, a sprint back to turn in your in your scorecard u turn in the scorecard. What happens next? Um,

spk_1:   35:09
or their How wide were their eyes when they saw that number?

spk_2:   35:12
I mean, the volunteers were pretty overwhelmed, so I don't think they, like, really took into account until they went into, like, scored like county. Um, but Joe Alec, there were a few people we had met through, like the duration of the calm by their like volunteers or like other climbers who were like, This is our goal. Like, we're just gonna see what happens who, like, came and like, handed me beer and was like, Did you do it like what happened? Um and like was super happy at that point, I'm like, Yeah, like I did what I wanted to do. We were close to what we wanted to do as a team. Kind of our goal is like to be right on the 300 bark would you didn't quite get to, but we're close. So we were super happy happy with that? Um and yes, there's there's different people I had met who just like, super supportive and like, so sites for me and like same thing within like, you just like beyond stoked because ah, the your previous he had climbed 136 pitches. So he was like, You did like what I did last year and like, this is your first year. Like that's nuts like you just like blown away was super excited.

spk_1:   36:17
Yeah, to put, I want to put this into a little bit of perspective. Like for people who maybe don't completely understand how much you climbed. She climbed 6180 feet. If you've seen free solo, El Cap is 2900 feet from bottom from bottom to top, so that's more than double the size of El Cap in under 24 hours. So to put that into some more perspective, most people don't climb El Cap in one day. Most people climb that 2900 feet in, like, three or four days, five or six days. So that's incredible. It's a lot of climbing.

spk_2:   36:54
Yeah, I have to say a couple things about that, Um, one that I think is like super cool is like I climbed over a vertical mile like Is my like 5000?

spk_0:   37:04
That's right. But I think about over a Virginia. Yes, like you

spk_1:   37:07
planes fly, I don't know, 30,000 complain a bit,

spk_2:   37:16
Um, but yes, but then the other thing about like, kind of comparing that Alcock El El Cap is it's kind of two different things. So, like we

spk_0:   37:27
were

spk_2:   37:27
single pitch climbing, so we're kind of like coming up going back down like the logistics of that were very simple. Everything was freed climbing, and most of it was, like around like the 57 range. Um, where is, like, something like, oh, catholic, The aid climbing on that. The logistics, Like, get all your gear up. Aid climbing super slow compared to free climbing on the climbing a lot harder on that. So, like, definitely by height and make sense. Still like compare those two, but yeah, can't two different beasts.

spk_0:   37:59
All right, What do you say to people who are just, like, Why?

spk_2:   38:02
Because why not?

spk_0:   38:05
E means? Because there

spk_2:   38:08
yeah. Um, yeah, I There's a lot of different answers to why think like a big one is I find it really enjoyable to push past my personal limits. Like the limits that I think I set for myself, for society sets for myself for this, that the other whatever it is, um, like it's really fun to just be like, No, I'm just gonna keep going, like I don't care what my brain's telling me. I don't care like how I feel like I'm just gonna keep going and, like, deciding toe continue and like, I don't know, I just feel like probably everyone is so much more capable than like what they think they are. Because they put these like boundaries and, like, hard limits on themselves. And you can just, like, I don't know, ignore a few things and then, like, do so much more than what you could have ever imagined. Like, if you would have liked found me, like, six years ago, um, hiking out, like to enchanted rock like dying literally, like, full on, like, bent over wheezing, being like this is the hardest thing I'm ever gonna dio. Um, then I would have been like, Oh, hell, no, like, thing is not possible, but kind of the different experience as I mentioned before, like climbing a few big walls and like some Alpine rounds and stuff like that, I like I kind of knew how to suffer, which is a thing that not everyone knows that they're capable of, um, because they don't put themselves in those uncomfortable situations. Yeah, I just really like toe like throw away whatever I think I'm capable of and just be like, Oh, wait, no, there's there's more.

spk_0:   39:42
That's really interesting. There's like an ancient Greek word through most, which describes that perfectly. It's like this idea that your reason might take you to a certain point. But there's, like, inner drive within you. That's like, No, you don't really get to quit. You don't know what you're capable of until you push yourself to the end. So I think you described that perfectly. Um, I'm wondering if you're gonna try to defend the title.

spk_2:   40:06
Yes. Um, I was a few points. Was like, I should say something about this one like, No, I'm sure they were lead up to it, but literally on the run down to turn in our scorecards, we were like, This is what we're gonna do different next year,

spk_0:   40:19
Like things this around and

spk_2:   40:21
like, move these couple of things when, like, maybe start on different side of the canyon like, yeah, like, 100% I'm doing this next year means doing this next year. I really hope we're doing this together unless, like, something happens. Um, yeah. So definitely there their plans, if you really cool to climb 300 pitches like together like 150 each like that would be awesome. And another goal we have is maybe next year, maybe never. Maybe sometime. Who knows? If you're really cool, it's like for me to win most female tried pitches, and then him most male tried pitches. And then, like as a team, we'd like wind most tried. But you just, like, sweep the whole category. That would be epic. Yeah, they're definitely plans to continue toe do this for whatever reason.

spk_1:   41:07
And I think we have a little bit of time left. But I really, really want to get this in your name for your team yet, you know, I don't even know. I feel like I want you to know.

spk_2:   41:19
Okay, Um, first off, I'm sorry, mom and Dad, um, when they asked about, like, the name like, Oh, yeah, all my hexes live in Texas And, like, Oh, that's cute, cause, like, hex is a kind of like climbing gear. Um, Okay, So our team name was all my hexes live in Texas with my exes that I'd still have sex with.

spk_0:   41:43
So you had had

spk_1:   41:44
the the Funniest name award. Did you also have the longest same award?

spk_2:   41:49
We did

spk_1:   41:50
me? Well, we beat chicken heads surfers for

spk_0:   41:54
sure. Okay, so much better than chicken that I don't think they

spk_2:   41:58
didn't call it a sorry. Keep good. We didn't win that price at the, actually.

spk_1:   42:03
Oh, there's actual prices, in my opinion. Thank

spk_2:   42:06
you. In my opinion, this ball. Thank you.

spk_1:   42:10
Awesome. Um and then, you know, I want to say one more thing in that, like part of what we're doing. Like as the day he jewel is. We wanna show people that climbing isn't just for the Alex Honnold. It's not just for the, like, incredible climbers who do these incredible things. It's for, like, normal people

spk_2:   42:31
for literally anyone who wants to climb

spk_1:   42:33
right? Exactly. It's for it's for anyone that, you know, has the guts to walk into ah, climbing gym, you know? And so I guess my last question for you would be What would you say to someone who is maybe considering climbing, but maybe thinks it has to hard? It's not for me. Would you say to that person

spk_2:   42:52
um, a few things? Uh, first, I think climbers sometimes do a really poor job of like comparing ourselves too much to other people around us. Like I think there's space for that. Um, and humans are a little bit naturally competitive. Uh, however, like, I think, just letting go of your ego and realizing you're never gonna be the best, Um, and enjoying that in and of itself. Like, um, just like letting go of ego and being like, cool like that Dude is climbing gyms point way harder than mere. Like that little girl is pulling way harder than me. And just like realizing that, like, you're your own climber, um, and you like, are gonna improve differently and be good at different things compared to other people. And you just like, enjoy it because we're literally climbing up things to come back down like it is the most pointless activity in the universe. Like for sure it accomplishes nothing like zero displacement. Um, and that's what's beautiful about it, because it is so pointless, like you can just

spk_0:   43:56
choose. I'm feeling that are you can just, like

spk_2:   44:00
choose to enjoy it and just experience this, like, beautiful thing. But, like can serve as a higher purpose for, like, different things, like building confidence and like meeting new people and different things like that. It, like, has this, like, awesome thing it can do, but also like it's just so fun. Just enjoy the movement. Enjoy the people around your around, enjoy the experience. Um and just don't, like, put that sort of pressure on yourself, because it's not gonna help. Um, yes, I think someone who's struggling to walk through the doors of the climbing gym like it is the most fun thing. Ah, which I think in my biased opinion involves some of the most wonderful people who are like a big, disjointed, dysfunctional family family that's just gonna, like support you and love you. Um, and yes, it just like going try it. The worst thing that's gonna happen is you're not gonna like it, and then you can leave. But like, it's just this wonderful experience that Ah, that's open to whoever wants it.

spk_1:   45:05
And then I think we kind of decided as a group that we want to have you back on because we need to talk about your van, and we don't have enough time right now to do that. So tell us a couple sentences. Tell us about your van, and, uh, yeah.

spk_2:   45:22
Okay. So I just bought Ah, high top Ford Transit van. Um, I know who I'm in a lot of

spk_0:   45:29
debt. Yeah, a

spk_2:   45:32
slink pain rent for the next five years, but yeah. Ah, and I'm building it out with my dad, and some different friends were helping. Um and I'm a homeowner at 22. When I move into that full time looking toe, make some moves, hopefully find some work outside of Texas. Uh, cm building it up kind of quick and gonna move in soon,

spk_1:   45:55
so we'll have to have you back on it. And I think so. Is there anything that you want to plug like? You wanna plug on Instagram? You want to look like a side hustle?

spk_2:   46:02
Um, yeah, sure. It's not mine, though. Um, go check out on site re souls and support your, um, dirtbag re solar who travels around and doesn't Amazing job cobbling shoes. Uh, his on instagram on site resold or on site in. Um, yeah. Go check it out. Thanks, guys, for listening. Thanks. Thanks so much.