Discover Nagano’s Vegan Gems with Guide Eriko | Eriko Miyao

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Welcome to today’s episode of the World Vegan Travel Podcast! We’re thrilled to have Eriko, a passionate vegan tour guide based in the beautiful Nagano Prefecture of Japan. With over a decade of experience connecting travelers to the rich culture, history, and natural beauty of this unique region, Eriko brings a wealth of knowledge and a deep love for her hometown.

In this episode, Eriko shares her journey to veganism, the challenges and joys of being vegan in Japan, and how she crafts immersive travel experiences that highlight Nagano's culinary delights, stunning landscapes, and unique traditions. Whether it’s learning to make buckwheat noodles with local grandmas or exploring the region’s vibrant seasons, Eriko provides insights that are sure to inspire your next adventure. Let’s dive in!

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Transcript

Brighde: Hi Eriko and welcome to the World Vegan Travel Podcast. 



Eriko: Thank you. Hello. 



Brighde: I'm so pleased to have you on the podcast to talk about a city in Japan, which a lot of people are very interested in. I see all of the Instagram reels about this city in Japan, and you are actually a vegan tour guide in this city. So, you're going to be able to offer a unique perspective for our listeners. We're going to be talking about Nagano today. Before you tell us a little bit about that, would you mind telling us about yourself and how you became a guide? 



Eriko: Sure, I've grown up in Nagano and I left for Canada. Living in Vancouver Island, Canada for about 13 years, then because of my family, I came back, and I've been living back in Nagano since then.



At the time, the numbers of the travelers from abroad were increasing dramatically, and there was a high demand for a tour guides. I've been working as a guide, guiding tourists from all over the world for about seven years. Starting from a set tour to a customized, experienced based tour. Many different kinds of tours. I really enjoy connecting travelers to local culture, to local people, and to the information they need.



Brighde: So you were born and raised in Nagano actually. 



Eriko: Yes. 



Brighde: I see. Okay. So, when people have you as a guide there, they really are talking with somebody who is born and raised there. That is wonderful. 



Eriko: That's right.



Brighde: So how did you start your vegan journey? 



Eriko: It's been such a journey. When I moved to Canada about 20 years ago, I actually gained 10 kilograms within a few years, and my health was not doing well. I was diagnosed with a certain illness. And first, I looked into reviewing what I have been eating. Since I moved to Canada, I was eating very typical Canadian food, which is more fat, and more sugar, and more wheat. And I've started eating a traditional Japanese diet, which is a rice based, plant-based diet. Actually, I was following, we call it a macrobiotic diet. 



Brighde: Yes, I'm familiar with that. Traditionally, it usually contains some fish, but otherwise, it's very vegan-friendly, correct? 



Eriko: Yes. Yeah. No milk, no eggs. And macrobiotic is not only a diet. It is about understanding the universe. I had a tumor, but the size of the tumor got smaller, and my body started feeling lighter. All my joints aches disappeared. 



Brighde: That's quite a transformation. 



Eriko: That's right. I don't think this strict diet is for everyone but that really fit into my body. Since then, I've been vegan,



and even after I came back to Japan. But in Japan, there are not many vegan restaurants. And also, it's a cultural thing. Being different is not very encouraged in this society. Being vegan, which is a minority, and expressing my own needs being vegan, is not understood. Mentally, it's been challenging to be vegan. Basically, I've been eating mostly at home. Not eating outside of home. But there are some nice vegan restaurants as well. That's what I want to share when the travelers come. 



Brighde: Sure, and we'll get into all of that, for sure, because there are some really lovely vegan restaurants in Japan. Just not so many, and often not very conveniently located is what I've noticed, and they're often very small.



Eriko: That's correct. 



Brighde: Yes, a challenge that we have had when we are running our vegan tours to Japan, is finding restaurants that are vegan or prepared to make vegan food, and are big enough to accommodate a group, and conveniently located. They can be a fantastic vegan restaurant, but if it's an hour from the sites that you want to see, then that's not very helpful.



Eriko: But actually, many people, not only for vegan restaurants, but here, food is the center of the culture, and people put high emphasis on food culture. And so for really good food, people would drive for an hour or a couple of hours just for that. 



Brighde: I think a lot of people do that when maybe they live in a place or if they're real foodies. But I think when you're traveling, you want to see so many things. You can't spend like a whole day going just for one restaurant. You have to do other things too. 



Eriko: Understanding. 



Brighde: So I'm really interested in learning about Nagano because on our vegan tours, we go to Tokyo, Kyoto, Kanazawa, and Hiroshima. And definitely these are like the beginner places that I think most people visit on their first trip to Japan. But, Seb and I would really like to create like a second trip to Japan. And maybe going to places that are slightly less visited, for people that have already been to Japan. And Nagano, maybe, is a place that would be interesting. So can you get us a little bit oriented please? Can you explain where Nagano is as a city, the climate, the location, and the geography and the landscape? 



Eriko: Sure. So when people come to Japan, many people would like to visit the new part of Japan, and the old part of Japan, and some countryside. Nagano is a good place to experience what country life is like. There are many places that has an image of a countryside in Japan, but I will tell you why Nagano is different. Nagano is one of prefecture of 47 prefectures in Japan. The location is right in the center of the main island. It takes an hour and a half from Tokyo by bullet train. When we had the winter Olympics in 1998, the bullet train was extended to Nagano. Now it's convenient, only an hour-and-a-half. But, before the Olympics, it used to take five hours by driving or express train. 



Brighde: We took a Shinkansen from Tokyo and we went through Nagano on the way to Kanazawa. Does that make sense to you? 



Eriko: That's right. 



Brighde: Yes. If you take a bullet train, Nagano is right in the halfway between Tokyo and Kanazawa. Kanazawa is an old part of Japan. 



So that's interesting that Nagano is a prefecture, but it's also a city. I was under the impression that it was just a city. So really, when we're talking about Nagano, it's really much bigger than just a regular city. There's a lot within that prefecture, I'm sure.



Eriko: Yes. When people call it Nagano, it can mean Nagano Prefecture or Nagano City. Nagano City is a capital of Nagano Prefecture. And one of the characteristics of Nagano is, it's very mountainous. High mountains, because we are right on the fault line. So, a long time ago, the earth rose because of the volcanic activities, and we have a high range of mountains called Japanese Alps, as high as 3, 000 meters. There are no other places in Japan that has this long range and high mountains together. The nickname for Nagano is 'Roof of Japan'. 



Brighde: Is that right? That is interesting. And is Mount Fuji close to this area or not really? 



Eriko: Mount Fuji is close to Nagano. 



Brighde: Yes, because I also remember seeing it when we were on that Shinkansen as well. Oh, okay. Yes, actually, it's south, southwest of Tokyo. 



Eriko: So from Nagano, Mount Fuji is to the south. 



Brighde: I see. So, tell me a little bit about Nagano's city. How many people live there, and what's it like there? 



Eriko: Nagano city has a population of 300, 000 people. Is 


Brighde: that all? 



Eriko: Yes, and in Japanese standard, we considered to be a small sized city. We have everything, convenience, as well as rich nature. If we drive 20 minutes, we are right in the mountains. 



Brighde: Lovely. Okay, so before we get into the things that people can experience outside of the city, I'd love for you to talk about Nagano and why would people want to come to this small city as a traveler?



Eriko: Nagano is one of the most common destinations. We go back to the fact that Nagano is in a high altitude at the foot of the mountains. So because of that, we have quality water, snow melt water, and springs. That's why agriculture is big here. Because of the volcanic activities, we have many hot springs. So, quality food, hot springs, and nature. Three important elements for tourism are here, and easy access from the big city. That's what people are coming for on weekends. Their favorite weekend, or typical weekend in Nagano would be; they will stay at the hotspring village, and stay overnight in traditional inns. We call it the Ryokan. It's a nice cultural experience, and they will relax in the hot spring and enjoy kaiseki-ryōri. That's a traditional course meal with local speciality. 



Some ryokans offer vegan food. And they go for a walk in nature and feel rejuvenated and go back to the city. Some people spend longer periods of time doing hot spring therapy. We call it the Yuji. Stay in the hot spring village, and hot spring is a medicine. So they come for health purposes, and balancing their mind.



Brighde: I can really see why that would be very accessible and easy for Japanese people to do. As you say, coming from the weekend from Tokyo or Nagoya. But can foreigners participate in all of these things as well? 



Eriko: Yes. I guess, 



Brighde: with your help you can help navigate that. 



Eriko: Oh, one thing. The hot spring in Japan, 95 percent of hot springs don't permit bathing suits, so we go in naked. Men and women separate. For people who feel shy to do that, some hot spring places, they have a private bath that you can make a reservation. Hot springs are for everyone. 



Brighde: I see, okay. Yes. So that's really like onsen as well, right? Onsen as well is separated and everyone is completely naked, right? 



Eriko: Yes. 



Brighde: I have done that. I have been to an onsen in Hiroshima, a very local one. And I went with Alina. She is one of the people that helps us out with our vegan tours. And it was a little strange walking around completely naked with women of all ages, but,it was a lovely experience. It was really nice with kids running around completely naked as well, which completely surprised me. There are quite a few rules and regulations regarding visiting onsen and hot springs, right? 



Eriko: 



Yes, you are correct. I'm used to it, so I didn't consider it to be regulations. And manners. 



Brighde: Yes, manners. That's the right word. Like, I remember, for example, receiving like a large towel and two small towels, I think. One of the towels I had to keep on my head. Like I couldn't just leave it to one side. I had to have it on my head so that it's not littering the place or making the place messy. Is that correct? 



Eriko: That's right. It's easier to go to hot springs with someone who has some experience just follow, imitate what other people are doing, you won't break big rules. There are always many instructions you can get on the internet and YouTube. 



Brighde: Yes, I definitely think Japan is one of those places where it's worth doing some research about this ahead of time.



And also, hiring the services of a guide like yourself, to ask for recommendations on the best places to go for foreigners so that we don't inadvertently upset or insult people there. 



 Always hire a tour guide.



I think it's great. So, if we're thinking about the city, you mentioned that it's quite small. What is the vibe of the city? Is it an old city? Can you still see like the castles and the old shrines? Or is it a very modern city?



Eriko: The center of Nagano City is quiet compared to Tokyo. One of the characteristics of Nagano is, we have old rich histories as well. So once we walk 15 minutes from Nagano Station, we are right in the old part of Nagano. Nagano City started when there was an older temple called Zenkoji Temple which was founded 1400 years ago. Zenkoji Temple was built there. Then, many pilgrims started coming, so they needed a place to stay, and places to eat, and businesses thrived. Nagano is still a small sized city, but there are many things to see for history lovers, and if you drive or take a train for short while, you'll be right in mountains, nature. There are lakes, rivers, ski hills. 



Brighde: Thatsounds really like such a beautiful place to spend some time on your Japan holiday. Are there any food specialties that vegans can enjoy vegan versions of? Or is there any particular cuisine or ingredients that are specific to this part of Japan?



Eriko: Yes, Nagano is well known for a variety of local food specialities. Traditionally we are very isolated due to high mountains. So that geographical isolation helped unique local culture to be remained. When people from the big city come to Nagano, they always think that, okay, a few things I need to eat while we are in Nagano. One, soba buckwheat noodles. That's our specialty. Second, oyaki dumplings. And third, apples. So buckwheat can grow in mountains and grow well in cool climate like Nagano. So buckwheat has been our main diet in some part of Nagano and Togakushi which is one of the villages in Nagano, and Togakushi Soba is the most popular soba in Japan. And for vegan people, what some restaurants, I wouldn't say, some, but just a few restaurants, they offer vegan, vegan sauce. They use mushroom broth instead of fish broth. 



Brighde: So it is like a soup, like a ramen, kind of?



Eriko: Yes. Two kinds of soba noodle. One is cold soba. 



Brighde: . 



Eriko: That we dip noodles into a sauce. Another kind is a hot noodle. That's in the hot soup. Noodles are in the soup. 



Brighde: I see. 



Eriko: And we tend to use a fish broth in the soup or in the sauce. I 



Brighde: see. But there are some places where you can get a vegan version of this.



Eriko: That's right. Instead of using a sauce, there is always soy sauce on each table. So instead of sauce, I just pour soy sauce over the noodle. 



Brighde: I see. To make it a little bit salty and more flavorful. Okay. That's right. Yeah, it's very interesting. Just on my other screen here, I'm looking at a map of Nagano province, and I'm shocked to see just how mountainous it is around, and how really, the city is completely surrounded by mountains. Just a very narrow valley, which I guess the train line goes through. So that really just confirms what you're saying about just how there's so much nature because I'm sure it's the mountains they can't really grow much in. So it's quite lucky that there's so much nature around this city. 



Okay, fantastic. 



Eriko: So most of the Nagano city or residences where people live are agricultural farmland or in a valley. 



Or a little patch of it in mountains. You can see beautiful rice fields, terraced rice fields on the mountains as well. 



Brighde: Lovely. Oh, it's like Vietnam. That's so nice. That's 



Eriko: right. That's the image. 



Brighde: Are there any specific vegan restaurants in Nagano? Particularly those serving Japanese style food? 



Yes. My favorites are two restaurants which is located near Matsumoto. Matsumoto is the second largest city in Nagano Prefecture. Matsumoto is famous for the Matsumoto Castle. And one of the vegan restaurants is called Manaya. The restaurant is in a beautiful, traditional farmhouse and they serve macrobiotic meals. It's a beautiful presentation and the taste is amazing And the other one is called Betty's Kitchen. Both restaurants needs a reservation. I see. Okay. Well, I'm really sold on Nagano as a destination to go and visit. Something that I know you wanted to speak to, was the hands on experiences that travelers can have when they come to this part of the world, so can you talk a little bit about that? 



Eriko: Yes. Because of the geographical isolation in the past in Nagano, we developed a unique food culture and craft culture. So those things are something that you can have hands on experiences. For example, food wise, buckwheat noodle making, with the support of the staff. So it'll be a fun experience. The oyaki dumpling making experience. Oyaki dumpling is one of the local speciality. Outside is made of wheat, and inside is any seasonal vegetables. Lots of times it's vegan and local grandma will show you how to make it. And one of my favorite places to take my travelers to, is one of the oyaki dumpling places near Nagano station. It's in a farmhouse type of building. And local grandmas are grilling dumpling over wood fire. We can see how they are making, and we can have a chat with locals, and sitting in front of the fire and savor dumplings. It's a nice atmosphere. 



Brighde: That does sound like a lovely opportunity for some local interaction. Really cool. Are there any other hands on experiences that you would like to share? 



Eriko: Yes, you can have many different craft experiences such as indigo dyeing, and pottery, and local art painting. Near Matsumoto, there is a museum called Takahashi Setsuro Museum. He is a designated national human treasure. And his art is amazing, and this museum offer lacquer art painting experience. This museum is really beautiful, and for real art lovers. And a little bit of an off the beaten track. It's not well known. 



Brighde: So I'm curious, Eriko, if people want to organize these experiences, are people able to reach out to you? And can you put a program together to help people make the most of their time in the area? 



Eriko: Yes, sure. I grew up here and been working as a guide for several years. I can organize a nice trip, custom made trip, according to your interest, and you being able to use your time efficiently.



Brighde: I absolutely love that! So before we share with our listeners how people can get in touch with you, I just wanted to ask a couple more questions, regarding the best time of year to come and visit to this part of the world. I imagine that different times of year are better, depending on what your interests are. Maybe there are some festivals that people would like to time their visit for, or maybe avoid because maybe it's too busy. So can you speak to the reasons why you should or should not go at different times of year?



Eriko: Japan actually has 24 seasons instead of four seasons. 



Brighde: 24? I have never heard this. Tell us more. 



Eriko: So which means every two weeks we enter into a new season. New food is in season and new flowers are blossoming, and birds are flying from the north. Different sound, different fragrance. So much change throughout the year. That is why the Japanese naturally tune into the rhythm of nature, and you can see that sensitivity in Japanese art and different forms throughout the society. And in Nagano, each season is very different and offer different beauty and different things to see. In spring, if you want to see sakura cherry blossom, from the mid-May, mid-March till mid-April is a good time for sakura cherry blossom. And for comfortable weather, very pleasant, comfortable weather with nice fresh green. That will be after the cherry blossom season, the end of April till the middle of June. And I would avoid traveling to Japan in August, which is very hot and humid. 



Brighde: That's what I have heard. 



Eriko: Yes, very uncomfortable. But if you want to have a mountain vacation, in Nagano, in the mountains, it's still pleasant in August.



Brighde: Right, so if you get out into the mountains and you're hiking, for example, it's lovely up there, right? 



Eriko: Yes, you can hike and you can stay in hot spring village in the mountains. You can have a hot spring. If August is your only option, there are still wonderful places and wonderful things you can do. And after summer, autumn is my favorite season, beautiful with the fall color, and lots of seasonal food are in harvest. All the rice fields turn to yellow, waiting for harvest, and air is very fresh. In spring, air is not that good because of the strong wind from the China continent, and pollution comes, and flower pollen causes allergic reactions, which can be a bit challenging to some people. And wintertime, we have a quality powder snow. Nagano is a place for winter activities. If you are interested in going to see the snow monkeys, the wild monkeys that have a hot spring bath. 



It's a good time to see that. It's from December till the end of March. But in green season, Snow Monkey Park is still a wonderful place to go. You can see newborn babies, and the park is not crowded, so it's easy to take photos. 



Brighde: I see. I've been curious about the monkeys there. They are 100 percent wild, are they? Or, Yes, they are. Are they encouraged to come to these hot springs, or they just come by themselves and they are completely wild? They 



Eriko: are 100 percent wild creatures. They live in woods and in the morning, they come down to the park and they hang out in the park. When it's cold, they have a bath, not all day long. They go in and go out, go in again. And when the park closes, they go back to the woods and sleep in different locations. They consider the park to be one of the spots in the mountains that they can find food. And there is no cage or fence, and the park is very respectful to keep their wildness. They give some food, they leave some food on the ground, but just minimum amount of food to attract their attention. 



Brighde: Oh, okay, so they do kind of want them to come to the hot springs by the sounds of it, with a small incentive, is that right?



Eriko: More incentive to come down to the park from the mountains, but the hot spring, they choose to have a bath. 



Brighde: Ah, that is super cute. I love it. Very nice.



Eriko: So before we sign off on the podcast, Eriko, are there any other things that travelers might find interesting about this part of the world? 



Sure. Actually, people in Nagano have the longest lifespan in Japan. We eat lots of fermented food. We used to be isolated, and we have to be self sufficient in long winter. So we would grow food in summertime and preserve food in the form of fermentation, such as pickling and making miso, soy sauce, and sake. So for food lovers, Nagano is an interest place to come and visit the missile makers and sake breweries. We can have a facility tour, and we can see huge wooden barrels filled with miso. We get to sample a bowl of miso soup, and some makers offer miso ice cream. Really? 



Brighde: Oh, that's interesting. 



Eriko: Miso is amazing food. When the atomic bomb hit Nagasaki and Hiroshima, some doctor encouraged them to eat a bowl of miso soup, and it is said that the miso soup helps the toxins to get out from the body. When the Fukushima happened, that same information was out there, that miso soup will detoxify the body. My grandma was saying the same thing to my father who was a smoker. And my grandma actually, she lived up to 103 years old. She often told my father, Oh, you are a smoker, so you need to have miso soup every meal to get rid of toxins out of the body.



Brighde: I love it. I love miso soup. I love it as an ingredient. It's just got such a wonderful taste and I love that it is such an important food in Japan. It wouldn't surprise me that it can do magical things. That's incredible. So, Eriko, I would love it if you wouldn't mind sharing with our listeners, those people that are thinking about coming to Japan, thinking about, including Nagano city and the surrounding area on their itinerary. How can you help them experience this part of the world to its fullest potential?



Could you explain what services you can offer to people who would like to explore Nagano to the fullest?



Eriko: My service is mainly making itinerary and guiding, giving private tours. So if they can reach me, I will discuss the itinerary which they can use their time efficiently and go visit places of interest. I guide them around on the day of the tour. I love 



Brighde: that. So how can people find you and reach out to you, and get your services, Eriko? 



Eriko: Yes, I mostly work with Tour by Locals. That's like a guiding agency to have a list of guides. And if you can go into tourbylocals.com and type in Nagano, and I will show up and you can reach me. 


Brighde: Well, listeners, whoever is listening to this, you will be able to find the link for Eriko's Tours By Local page. I'm looking at it right now. It's very nice. And you can message Eriko directly through this platform, correct? 



Eriko: Yes. 



Brighde: Okay, fantastic. I see you have quite a few tours on your website already that are very highly rated. So, people can book those, I'm guessing, just off the website. But then, of course, if they want something more customized, you can help them with that too, right? 



Eriko: Yes. 



Brighde: I love it. I love it. 



So Eriko, I want to thank you so much for taking the time to share some really helpful information about this lovely part of Japan. I really want to come to this place. I would love to offer another tour to Japan because so many people are interested in Japan and something that's a little bit more off the beaten track would be amazing. And I definitely will contact you if we decide to go to Nagano. Thank you so much for being on the podcast, Eriko. And I wish you all of the best for the 2025 season. 



Eriko: Thank you very much for the opportunity. 



Brighde: Thank you.