The World Vegan Travel Podcast
The World Vegan Travel Podcast
Vegan Travel in Croatia | Behind the Scenes of Trip Planning
Episode 190 – Mini-Series Part 2
Join Brighde as she takes you behind the scenes of planning a luxury vegan yacht trip through Croatia. From scouting dreamy islands to solving last-minute mishaps, it’s a peek into the magic (and mayhem) of vegan travel trip design.
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Hi everyone, and welcome back to The World Vegan Travel Podcast. I’m your host, Brighde, and this is the second episode in my little mini-series—a recent journey we made and we’re behind the scenes as we scout, run trips, and do some travel for fun.
Today I’m taking you to Croatia—a country that has long fascinated me with its craggy coastline, storybook islands, Roman ruins, and sun-drenched villages. And while this trip was full of beautiful food, places, and people, it wasn’t a vacation—it was all about logistics, pacing, and pulling together the perfect experience for our upcoming Joyful Vegan Croatia trips aboard the Ohana, a luxury yacht that will be our floating home for the week.
Now, those two 2025 departures are already sold out—which is incredible—but we’re absolutely planning more. So this trip was essential for ensuring that we know the places, people, and rhythms that will shape the upcoming journeys in Q3 and the future to come.
We stayed in hotels on this scouting trip, but when our guests come, like I mentioned they’ll be onboard the Ohana: complete with jet skis, kayaks, paddle boards, incredible food, and elegant cabins.
Our mission always as Seb kept reminding me—as he always does—that we’re not just building an itinerary. We’re building an experience that allows time to enjoy the boat too. That balance is everything.
Let’s go day by day of our time in Croatia, starting in a place that feels like a fairytale: Dubrovnik.
Dubrovnik is often called the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” and it lives up to the hype. Walled and dramatic, perched right against the turquoise sea (I am sure you know, but it was one of the locations for Game of Thrones - Kings Landing to be precise), it’s incredibly picturesque—but also wildly touristy. On this visit, we stayed again at Hotel Lero, a spot that’s proven practical and well-placed in the past.
After a quick check-in, we grabbed a casual dinner—pizza, nothing fancy—and took a stroll through the Old Town. Even in the greyish light, it was still jaw-droppingly beautiful. I couldn’t help but compare this moment to my previous scouting trip here with Seb, Colleen, and David. It’s a place that lingers in your memory.
The next day was all about discovery. We met with a potential food tour guide—not vegan, but open-minded and creative. He pitched a vegan spin on peka, the traditional Croatian “under-the-bell” roasted dish typically made with lamb or octopus (urgh). He also suggested working with a local pastry chef on a unique dessert experience. More thought needed about this.
We also visited Soul Kitchen, a vegan-friendly restaurant with a good reputation. The food was nice as was the space. It wasn’t an oh yes, we have to come here, but we did enjoy it
Then came dinner at Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant, and it was… a moment. Picture this: you’re solo (Seb skipped this one), the sky is glowing orange, swifts are darting between the rooftops of ancient stone buildings, and the Adriatic stretches into the distance. The chef prepared a custom vegan tasting—simple and light, and while the protein and satiety was a little lacking, the service and the view were unforgettable. This spot is a strong contender for a final dinner—though pricey, the setting delivers a wow factor that’s hard to beat. We have some thinking to do.
We spent the following morning sourcing supplies—visiting health food stores and supermarkets that might be useful for provisioning the yacht. Then we met with Ivo, owner of Urban & Veggie, who also manages vacation apartments and bike tours. He’s a great local connection that we will be working with..
From there, we caught a ferry to Mljet, a peaceful, forested island that’s one of the greenest in the Adriatic. We stayed in a very simple Airbnb run by a kind elderly couple in Polače, right on the edge of Mljet National Park.
Now, this is where the glamour faded a bit—there was no hot water. After a cold-ish shower and much confusion, we discovered an unlabeled boiler switch after the fact. Seb got the hot water. Lucky him.
Dinner was pasta we made from our airbnb, and while it wasn’t fancy, the silence and the stars over the bay made up for it.
The following day was all about exploring what makes Mljet Island so special.
Mljet National Park blew us away. With deep blue lagoons with ‘wait for it’ coral reefs, serene walking paths, Roman ruins, and dramatic viewpoints, it’s a stunning slice of nature. We were guided by Tino, a local who’s passionate, knowledgeable, and unfiltered—which made for a memorable experience.
We visited a 3rd-century Roman palace right in Polače—one of the largest Roman structures in Croatia, and totally open-access. No ticket gates, no guards—just history, left as is.
Later, we got a ferry to Korčula, a charming walled town often called “Little Dubrovnik.” It has Venetian influences, tight alleyways, and a beautiful seaside promenade. We stayed at the Aminess Korčula Heritage Hotel, and we walked in to town and we met Leia, a lovely and creative guide. She suggested unique touches like a private sword dance performance—a local tradition—and artisan shopping stops for our groups.
We started with a visit to Jovanov Winery, where we chatted with a sommelier about potential vegan wine tastings and a potential off the boat meal.
After heading back to Korcula, A ferry took us to Hvar.
Hvar Town, nestled on the sun-drenched southwestern coast of Hvar Island, is a picture-perfect blend of Venetian charm, glittering Adriatic waters, and lively Mediterranean energy. Its marble-paved streets, terracotta rooftops, and elegant stone buildings speak to centuries of history as a key naval and trading outpost in the Venetian Empire. At the heart of town is the stately St. Stephen’s Square, lined with cafes and anchored by a Renaissance cathedral. Looming above it all is the Fortica (Španjola) Fortress, which offers panoramic views over the harbor and Pakleni Islands beyond. Hvar is known for its chic appeal—with sleek yachts bobbing in the marina and a thriving nightlife..
At Riva Marina Hotel where we spent the night, we were upgraded to a fabulous suite, the best in house—a huge win. Dinner was at Fig Hvar, a beautifully designed spot with a few great vegan options. The weather was still overcast, but Hvar’s elegance still shone through.
This day was about exploring Hvar. We spent it with Stefan, a fantastic local guide who took us to:
An olive oil tasting from an award winning producer of olive oil.
The Fortress of Petar Hektorović in Stari Grad, a poetic site with inscriptions, and stone courtyards which is a place we are really excited about. Petar Hektorović (1487–1572) was a Croatian poet and nobleman. He was born and lived in Stari Grad, on the island of Hvar, which was then part of the Venetian Republic.
We also tested Mode 11 back in Hvar for a late lunch (solid but not spectacular), and scoped out Vintage for an evening aperitivo—think dumplings, bao, and cocktails in a stylish setting in the middle of the walled city before taking a ferry to Brac where we bunkered down in Milna for the night.
We took our pre-arranged taxi where we toured an animal shelter run by Tina located in a remote part of Brac. It was heartwarming—cats, horses, and sheep all rescued and loved. It was so lovely to meet Tina who does this work pretty much on her own. It’s too isolated for volunteers and there’s no accommodation either so she really is such a hero.
We then had a bit of an epic few hours of travel. In order to get to the final island we were visiting on this scout (Vis) we had to travel back to Split where we had a couple of hours to wait before taking a catamaran ferry to Vis.
After lunch in Split at Soul Kitchen (they have another branch in Split), we boarded another ferry to Vis, a remote part of the Dalmatian islands that I think was one of my favourites. That remoteness gives it a wild, off-the-grid feel that I absolutely adore.
There is a reason that Vis feels so unspoiled.
Vis Island is one of the most intriguing and historically layered destinations in Croatia, in part because it was closed to foreign visitors until 1989. This wasn’t due to remoteness or lack of infrastructure, but rather political strategy. Under the leadership of Josip Broz Tito, the communist dictator of the former Yugoslavia, Vis was used as a military base during the Cold War. Its strategic position in the Adriatic made it an ideal location for monitoring naval activity and defending Yugoslavia's coastline. As a result, the island was heavily fortified with bunkers, tunnels, and military installations—many of which still exist and can be visited today. These structures were part of a broader network of Cold War defenses, meant to protect against both NATO and Soviet threats, as Yugoslavia maintained a unique non-aligned position.
We stayed in an Airbnb in Vis town that had everything we needed at this point in our journey and stumbled upon what might be the dining highlight of the trip: Fort George. Built by the British in the early 1800s and perched on a cliff with ocean views, this spot served up an unexpectedly delicious vegan dinner from their wedding catering menu. Cool breeze, crashing waves, and gorgeous plating—it was an instant contender for future dinners.
Now, this day has drama. We had pre-arranged a military history tour of Vis to see all the things I just talked about.
Our original guide? Not great. We had been communicating with him the previous day and he had then become unresponsive. We booked another tour through Viator (the name of the operator was different - we checked). We let the guy know we had been communicating with that due to a non response, we had found another tour offering something similar so we would cancel.
We turned up at the meeting spot for the viator tour and noone shows up to meet us. We call the phone number and surprise, it was the same guy as yesterday and he was in bed saying that he’d thought we’d canceled.
and he arrived visibly irritated, swearing, defensive, and honestly while his reviews online were good, it was not a good first impressions especially as we were looking at this experience through the lens of our travelers. He tried to make excuses for what had happened, did a lot of talking, and not a lot of listening.
We politely backed out and—on instinct—walked into a local agency.
That’s where we met Robert, a former police officer diver and our savior. He took us on an amazing impromptu tour:
Military boat shelters built but never used by Tito.
Tunnel networks in cliffs and sleeping quarters which still had the bed frames in it also remnants of the Cold War.
The Church of the Holy Spirit (15th or 16th century) overlooking Komiža - one of the other main towns on Vis
Vis was a WIN and the weather was amazing but it was time to leave.
Afterward, we returned to Split, checked in at the Renaissance Hotel, and had a fantastic dinner at Barakokula—a fully plant-based restaurant. Standouts: the Soparnik (Dalmatian chard pie) and something called Sexy Tofu, which absolutely lived up to its name.
So, I much prefer Split over Dubrovnik.
Split is one of Croatia’s most captivating cities, blending ancient history with lively modern culture in a setting that feels both grand and intimate. Located on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, it’s framed by rugged mountains on one side and the sparkling Dalmatian coast on the other. This natural beauty is paired with a vibrant harbor, charming promenades, and a strong local identity, making Split feel like more than just a tourist destination—it’s a working city with deep roots and character. What sets Split apart is how seamlessly the past and present coexist. You’ll see loads of cats walking on polished Roman stones, laundry flapping from medieval windows, cafes tucked into ancient walls and my favourite, a medieval house that had the head of an ancient egyptian statue embedded into the walls half way up the building. Why? Because the builder must have found it laying around hundreds of years and thought it would make a nice addition to the building. Just mind blowing.
At the heart of the city lies Diocletian’s Palace, one of the most extraordinary historical sites in Europe. Built by the Roman emperor Diocletian in the 4th century CE as his retirement residence, the palace isn’t just a museum piece—it forms the living, breathing core of the old city. Within its massive limestone walls are homes, shops, restaurants, and bars, all layered into the original Roman architecture. It's incredibly rare to find a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is still so actively inhabited and in use. You can stroll through Peristyle Square, descend into the hauntingly preserved substructures, and walk through original Roman gates that have stood for more than 1,700 years. The palace complex is a vivid reminder of how history continues to shape life in Split—it’s not something locked behind glass, but something locals live in, walk through, and build their lives around every day.
So, thats why we were in Split and actually where out first trip starts and second one ends.
This means we had a lot to do.
The next day was about tying up loose ends. We visited:
Hotel Cornaro’s rooftop, a contender for welcome meetings
Uje Oil Bar, which serves a vegan Dalmatian menu—very rare!
Zoi Restaurant, built into the palace walls
We also met with an excellent sommelier who might join us on board for a wine pariing,and scouted more group dinner venues.
Also, fun fact: Split has so many well-fed, notched-ear cats. It’s clear there’s a strong TNR (trap-neuter-return) program. These cats are part of the cityscape, and I kind of love that.
The next day
This was our final day—and it started with the end of a two-week package saga. Let’s get in to it.
For the past two weeks, we’ve been caught in a drawn-out logistical saga involving a package Seb mailed from Zurich to Paris, intended for our upcoming Dordogne trip. This box contained essential supplies, and since we had ample time before the trip began, we assumed mailing it ahead would simplify things. Seb paid 80 Swiss Francs for delivery and let the receiving hotel know it was on its way.
What we didn’t anticipate was that, because Switzerland isn’t in the EU, the package was held up due to unpaid customs duties. The hotel initially refused the package. Their explanation kept shifting—first, it was the customs, then they admitted their team hadn’t communicated properly. The package was marked “return to sender,” and if not for our SmartTag (Samsung's version of an AirTag), we would’ve been flying blind.
Thanks to the tag, we watched as it sat in a Paris-area warehouse for nearly a week, only to be sent all the way back to the Hyatt Place Zurich Airport (who were amazing and re-sent it to Paris on our behalf). We tracked its every move, checking several times a day. This morning, we saw it was back in central Paris and called the hotel in a panic, terrified they might refuse it again. The tag showed it circling close to the hotel and then pulling away again—it was a nerve-wracking moment. But finally, after all the stress, the package was delivered successfully. 🎉
This experience reinforced the immense value of smart trackers for luggage and packages. Being able to see exactly where your belongings are—even when the delivery company can’t tell you—is a game changer, especially if you’re traveling between multiple countries. It also highlighted how dependent successful delveries can be on clear internal communication at hotels.
Lunch and dinner were at Pandora Greenbox, and we had a fantastic final meeting with Nives, a guide we’re very excited to work with. Her knowledge of Split’s ancient history is incredible—she’s the kind of person who brings old stones to life.
So that was Croatia—not just postcard pretty, but layered, complicated, and full of potential. Now comes the hard part: paring it down.
Seb keeps reminding me—this trip is on a luxury yacht. We’ve got to leave time for jet skis, paddleboards, and cocktails on deck. So now we’re in the editing phase: choosing just the right mix of history, food, nature, and relaxation.
If you want to know more about our Croatia yacht trips, visit worldvegantravel.com. And stay tuned—this journey is just getting started.
Thanks so much for listening, and I’ll see you next time for our quick trip to Azerbaijan.
Until then, keep adventuring kindly.