Vegan in Azerbaijan: Surprising Food & Mud Volcanoes

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Mini-Series Part 3

In this episode, Brighde shares her unforgettable journey through Azerbaijan—a country full of contrasts, bubbling mud volcanoes, ancient petroglyphs, and heartfelt reunions. From vegan food challenges to spectacular scenery and quirky moments with lifelong friends, this episode offers a rare glimpse into a destination most travelers overlook.

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Transcript

Welcome, welcome back to the World Vegan Travel Podcast! We are thrilled to have you join us again for part three of our special mini-series, where we're chronicling the whirlwind of adventures we had this past spring. We kicked things off by giving our recap of our trip we ran in Tuscany in collaboration with the NHA, then our scout in the beautiful, complex landscapes of Croatia, and now, we're setting our sights on a place that was completely new territory for us – and likely for many of you tuning in! Get ready to dive deep into... Azerbaijan!
That's right, Azerbaijan. If you're sitting there scratching your head wondering exactly where that is, you are definitely not alone! It's a country most people know very little about, nestled in the Caucasus region between Europe and Asia, bordering the Caspian Sea.
But this wasn't just a typical tourist visit; this trip had a very special purpose. We were heading there to visit dear friends, Paul and Kate, who have been calling Azerbaijan home for the past four and a half years. Our connection with Paul and Kate goes way back – we met them nearly 20 years ago when we were all expats living in Vietnam and Thailand, navigating life together far from home. That shared history has really forged an incredibly close bond.
This trip was actually our last chance to see them in Azerbaijan before they pack up and make the big move to Beijing. So, we absolutely had to go. And joining us for this adventure was our son, Jet, who is now 13, adding his own unique layer of joy and humor to the whole experience.
Our arrival in Baku was instantly fascinating. We flew in as evening was settling in, and as we were driven to our friends’ house, we passed through streets lit up with what felt like an almost theatrical display of light. Baku’s modern architecture is truly stunning — buildings like the Heydar Aliyev Center, designed by the legendary Zaha Hadid, honestly look like something straight out of a sci-fi film. Their swooping, fluid forms just lit up the night like giant sculptures.
The contrast between old and new is incredibly striking here. The very next morning, Seb and I wasted no time and set out on foot to get our first real feel of the city.
We started our day by walking down what’s locally known as "The Cat Stairs". It's this long outdoor staircase located in a really leafy part of the city, adorned with beautiful mosaic tiles and whimsical cat motifs. These steps have actually become something of a quirky urban landmark — a fun and slightly surreal introduction to Baku. And, of course, true to the name, we saw a lot of cats!
From there, our wandering led us into the Old City — known locally as Icherisheher. This area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and truly the historical heart of Baku. As we strolled the narrow, cobbled lanes, we saw incredible stone structures and felt like we’d stepped back centuries.
The Maiden Tower, an iconic cylindrical structure dating all the way back to the 12th century, stood watch over the old town. Nearby, the Palace of the Shirvanshahs offered glimpses into medieval Azerbaijani royalty. We didn’t actually go inside any museums on this trip, but even just walking the streets gave us such a vivid picture of the city's rich and layered past.
Leaving the Old City, we found ourselves transitioning onto broad boulevard-style avenues lined with cafes and trees, eventually making our way onto the promenade that runs along the Caspian Sea. This beautiful area, called the Baku Boulevard, is so well-maintained, featuring fountains, sculptures, parks, and you can even spot a Ferris wheel off in the distance. Now, the Caspian isn’t your typical sea — it’s actually the world’s largest inland body of water — but the atmosphere felt perfectly coastal all the same.
What really struck us during those first hours exploring was the layout of the city. Baku is built in a crescent shape around the bay, and the elevation changes as you move inland, which gives you some absolutely fantastic views. But... oh my goodness, the traffic — wow. It was relentless! We had to be so careful navigating crossings and timing our walks between the honks and zooming and eratic cars.
Eventually, we made our way back to Paul and Kate’s home via a beautiful new park. It had wide walkways, modern landscaping, and lots of families out enjoying the sun. We're not sure of the name, but it felt like a perfect urban escape — so quiet, clean, and green.
Overall, our first impressions of Baku were of a city that manages to be simultaneously futuristic and ancient, chaotic and calm, sprawling yet somehow easy to explore on foot. It truly is a place full of surprises, and we were so excited to see more.
The next day, while Paul and Kate were at work, we hired a driver and a guide. And this led to one of our most surreal days — the morning we visited the Gobustan mud volcanoes and petroglyphs.
We were picked up by a lovely guide named Emin, a university student who moonlights as a tour guide. The drive itself was a transition. From the polished streets of Baku, we drove into what felt like an apocalyptic industrial zone — oil rigs, refineries, and dust everywhere. Then, the terrain completely opened up into barren, rocky landscapes.
To reach the volcanoes, we had to transfer into an old Soviet-era Lada. This thing looked like it hadn’t been touched since 1978! It bumped and rattled across the cracked earth, delivering us to a place that honestly looked like the surface of another planet. These mud volcanoes are cold, bubbling mounds that gurgle and belch methane gas. Azerbaijan is famously home to nearly a third of all mud volcanoes on Earth, actually it's considered the mud volcano capital of the world with nearly 400 of them! Standing among them felt totally alien and oddly magical. The ground beneath your feet feels strange — it looks solid but jiggles like pudding under your weight.
From the mud volcanoes, we visited the Gobustan Petroglyph Reserve. Here, we saw over 6,000 rock carvings dating back up to 20,000 years, etched directly into the stone. You could see images of hunters, animals, dancers — it was like looking through a prehistoric window into life millennia ago. Unlike cave paintings, these incredible ancient stories are out in the open. Walking among these stone slabs felt incredibly special.
We ended this dusty, surreal morning with a Zoroastrian-themed lunch near the famous Ateshgah Fire Temple. It was complete with live accordion music and delicious mezze-style food like hummus, mutabal, and salads. A lovely way to ground ourselves after feeling like we'd visited Mars. The bustling city of Baku had given way to a more rural, desert-like countryside – rolling brown hills, sparse vegetation, and that dusty haze. It truly felt like entering another world entirely.
Now, let's talk about the big question for any vegan traveler: what was the food scene like?
Honestly? It brought out some very mixed reactions. To put it mildly, Azerbaijan is generally regarded as not very vegan-friendly. Traditional dishes often lean heavily on animal-based ingredients, particularly butter, yogurt, and meat. Our friend Paul didn’t hold back at all. He straight-up declared it the least vegan-friendly country he’s ever visited. He found that food seemed to take a long time to arrive, and when it did, it often tasted... well, unusual. He had some memorable descriptions, like cherry jam with the pits still in it, and an overwhelming amount of eggplant, which was usually buttery. So, safe to say he wasn't exactly blown away.
Now, while I wouldn’t go quite that far myself, I would definitely agree that it’s not exactly a culinary vegan paradise. We heard that from quite a few people. But Kate, who, like Paul, has lived there for four and a half years, had a much more balanced take. She pointed out that once you know your way around a menu and know where to look, there are definitely some standout dishes. Yes, a lot is indeed eggplant and tomato-based, but there are surprises too!
(Sound of discovery)
Let's highlight some of the more reliable or notable vegan finds we had. One reliable staple was lentil soup. It's pretty much everywhere, often served with a slice of lemon, just like you find in Turkey. Simple, but tasty. There were also a few surprise wins. We found a crispy eggplant salad with a kind of teriyaki glaze that was absolutely delicious – definitely not something we expected to find in Azerbaijan! Kate mentioned salads dressed with walnut paste or pomegranate molasses, and sometimes cherry sauces without the pits, thankfully.
When it comes to snacks and street food, you’ll see fruit leather everywhere. And boiled corn is a ubiquitous roadside snack, though unfortunately, it’s often cooked within an inch of its life. We also tried gutab. This looks like a flat stuffed pancake cooked on an upturned wok. It’s typically brushed with butter, so not vegan by default, but we did manage to find a butter-free version filled with herbs called Qutab. It was a bit dry, but still worth trying.
And here’s a major insight for fellow vegan travelers: self-catering is absolutely possible and makes a huge difference! There’s actually a vegan shop in Baku where we were able to pick up international plant-based products like Beyond Burgers, vegan sausages from Turkish and European brands, and other pantry staples. This seriously became a game-changer. In fact, Beyond Burgers from the Baku vegan shop became a favorite meal of the trip, including one memorable dinner at the luxurious Basqal Resort villa we stayed at.
We also had some simple, satisfying home-cooked meals at the guesthouses we stayed at, where the staff made an effort to accommodate our vegan preferences. At Lahic Guesthouse, we had delicious lentil soup and vegan cabbage rolls. However, we did have a funny little disappointment trying veggie burgers at the Gabala gondola base cafe. Despite the staff’s confident assurance, the sauce turned out not to be vegan, which really highlights the crucial need for clear communication. These experiences underscore that while there are challenges, vegan travelers can definitely enjoy the country's culinary landscape, especially with a bit of planning and self-catering.
Now, if food was a mixed bag, the drinks scene is where Azerbaijan really shines, especially if you’re vegan! Tea culture is huge here – it's not just a beverage, it's a whole vibe, absolutely central to hospitality. Black tea is the default, served in charming pear-shaped glasses, usually without sugar or milk. Instead, you often get a little dish of fruit jam. And the ritual is to eat the jam with a special spoon, then sip your tea. It’s unusual at first, but we ended up quite liking it. We stopped at lovely roadside spots and cafes where tea was always flowing, sometimes offering beautiful herbal blends too.
Another interesting drink we encountered was compote. This is a sweet, fruit-infused water, like a homemade fruit drink, and it comes in giant bottles with actual fruit pieces floating around. We saw versions with pear, cherry, feijoa, and more. It's surprisingly refreshing, especially on a hot day.
Coffee is a different story. While more specialty coffee shops are popping up, instant coffee is definitely the norm in supermarkets and it’s surprisingly expensive – we’re talking something like $10 CAD for a small jar! Finding coffee beans is much harder. There's also a bit of a cultural perception that coffee is a bit fancy or pretentious. Paul even mentioned his Azerbaijani friend getting funny looks just standing at the bus stop with a cup of coffee. Yep, tea definitely rules here!
And then there’s alcohol! This might surprise you given that Azerbaijan is about 95% Muslim, but alcohol is quite common and openly consumed, more like what you’d see in Turkey. In Baku, it’s quite relaxed; you see people dressed however they want, going out, drinking wine or cocktails.
Azerbaijan actually has a growing wine scene. Kate, our friend who lived there, has tried quite a few and developed a real taste for the local rosés. Her top picks are from Karabakh Winery, followed by Chabiant, which makes a nice Madrasa rosé, and Mazeri, which is an organic option. We even stopped at the Mazeri Organic Winery – a beautiful place with swans and vineyards, though Paul was confidently wrong about the chili olives there, which became a hilarious running joke. Kate does recommend perhaps steering clear of Savalan wine, which she found a bit underwhelming.
And speaking of Baku, if you like a good bar crawl or enjoy trying different drinks, Baku’s cocktail scene is impressive. We found proper mixology, with perfectly made Negronis, Sbagliatos, and unique house specials.
One quick, vital practical tip: don’t drink the tap water in Baku or other cities. Stick to bottled or filtered water. However, when we were up in the mountains, we were able to drink straight from natural springs, which was lovely.
Beyond the food and drink, the trip itself was just a whirlwind of unexpected adventure. On one morning just outside Baku, we had that truly surreal excursion that included those bubbling mud volcanoes, the UNESCO-listed prehistoric petroglyphs, and that Zoroastrian-themed lunch.
Our road trip took us through some truly stunning landscapes. We hit that sweet spot of late spring, early summer, and the countryside was absolutely bursting into bloom. Rolling hills, forests, and fields of daisies and buttercups felt like something straight out of a Studio Ghibli film. The gardens at the Lahic Guesthouse were overgrown in the best way, full of butterflies and birds. At Runaway House, our final stop, the valley field was completely carpeted with wildflowers.
Speaking of accommodations, we stayed in some truly memorable places. The villa at Basqal Resort was a dream, with a private heated pool and ensuites in every room – a small luxury that just sparks pure joy! Lahij, that beautiful cobblestone mountain village that felt like a film set, had a charming, slightly ramshackle guesthouse. Runaway House, our final stop, featured private cabins built to look like shipping containers, all facing a gorgeous valley view. They were secluded but sociable, offering quiet comfort with stunning sunsets. Lying in bed looking out the full-length window felt like camping, but very, very comfortable! We enjoyed Mexican train (a dominoes train, a fire pit and a fire pit)
Now, no road trip is complete without a few mishaps that turn into stories, right? We had not one, but two flat tires! The first was dramatic – a blowout on the edge of a cliff road in the middle of nowhere! Fortunately, a van full of incredibly kind Israeli travelers came to our rescue. The second flat happened the very next morning at Runaway House, and again, locals and guesthouse staff came together to help us out. These weren't trip-derailers at all; they actually became part of the highlights, those classic travel stories of people helping you out when you need it most.
We had other funny moments too. Paul being confidently wrong about things he hadn't Googled became a brilliant running joke. Jet had a minor, slightly alarming but ultimately comedic in hindsight, "poisoning" incident trying to toast chocolate in plastic wrap over a firepit. Our driver’s erratic driving was a bit of a sour note on one day, but the company and conversation more than made up for it. There was a promised 5-minute walk that somehow turned into a 40-minute adventure. And the disappointment of finding the Jean-Claude Van Damme statue in the town of Vandam was actually closed was comically anticlimactic. It really could have been a trip highlight!
But through all of it – the food adventures, the stunning scenery, the quirky moments, the flat tires – what stood out most was the human connection. This trip was fundamentally about reconnecting with friends we’ve known for nearly two decades. Traveling with people who know each other deeply, sharing old jokes, and navigating a new place together just makes everything more meaningful. That kind of trust makes mishaps funny instead of frustrating. It’s the kind of connection that lets you say, "Hey, let's go to Azerbaijan!" and everyone instantly says, "Sure! Let's do it!" Even the conversation with our guide Emin about Azerbaijani politics and the Armenia-Azerbaijan conflict gave us such a nuanced, real view that you just can't get from checking the news.
Azerbaijan, with its beautiful landscapes, roadside chaos, warm hospitality, and quirky unpredictability, was a surprising and absolutely unforgettable setting. It was a mix of quiet countryside moments, spontaneous laughter, and a wonderful deepening of lifelong friendships.
So, that was Azerbaijan – a country that surprised Seb and I at every single turn. While it presented some unique challenges for us as vegan travelers, it also offered incredibly rich experiences, from exploring ancient history to bumping along to bubbling mud volcanoes. And with a bit of planning, clear communication, and utilizing the self-catering option, it’s absolutely possible to have an amazing vegan adventure there.
This journey was a beautiful reminder that friendship, when woven into the landscape of a new place, really does make everything more beautiful.
Thank you so much for joining us on this leg of our travel mini-series! We hope you enjoyed this glimpse into a less-traveled part of the world. Stay tuned for our next adventure!