The World Vegan Travel Podcast

Falling for Canada: A Vegan Traveler’s Autumn in Ottawa | Brighde Reed

Brighde Reed Episode 206

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After wrapping up an unforgettable World Vegan Travel trip in Croatia, Brighde and Seb swap turquoise seas for golden forests as they embark on an autumn road trip through Eastern Canada. From vegan poutine in Ottawa to peaceful cabin mornings in Quebec’s lake country, and from the magic of Gatineau Park to a rejuvenating day at Spa Nordik, this episode is a love letter to Canada in the fall.

As Brighde shares her reflections on the journey — while in the middle of her Canadian citizenship process — she takes us through stunning landscapes, meaningful cultural moments, and some of the best vegan food the country has to offer.

If you’ve ever dreamed of seeing Canada’s famous fall colours, soaking in forest hot tubs, or discovering how travel can make you feel more at home in the world, this episode is for you.

🌿 In this episode, you’ll hear about:

  • Exploring Ottawa’s landmarks and Indigenous art through fresh eyes
  • The best vegan eats — from cozy cafés to gourmet comfort food
  • Peaceful days at a forest cabin and rejuvenation at Spa Nordik
  • The connection between travel, belonging, and becoming Canadian

🍁 Join us for a slow, heartfelt journey through Canada’s golden autumn — one that celebrates nature, culture, and compassion in every moment.

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After wrapping up our incredible World Vegan Travel trip in Croatia, Seb and I shifted gears completely — from the turquoise Adriatic coast to something far quieter and closer to home: an autumn road trip through Eastern Canada.

Seb has been urging me for years to experience the famous fall colours here, and this year he finally made it happen.

For me, though, this trip wasn’t just about the scenery. I’m in the middle of my Canadian citizenship process — I actually took the test about four weeks ago — so this journey felt like a deeper dive into the history and soul of the country that I’m about to officially call home.

We flew from Zurich to Montreal, then onward to Ottawa — Seb’s birthplace. While it’s always special for him to revisit familiar places, I’ll admit… we were exhausted. So our first day was really about settling in, catching our breath, and letting that sense of we’re back in Canada sink in.

Parliament views, vegan poutine, and a forest retreat

Jet lag hit me hard that first morning — I was wide awake at 5:30 a.m. So I did what any restless traveler would do: went out in search of coffee before the sun was even up.

After a quiet morning catching up on a few emails, we set off to explore Ottawa, Canada’s capital. I’ve visited before, but this time felt different — maybe because I’ve been studying for that citizenship test, or maybe because I was finally seeing these landmarks with fresh eyes.

We began with a walk around the downtown core, through leafy parks overlooking the Ottawa River and Parliament Hill. One thing that really struck me was how much First Nations public art you see throughout the city — beautiful sculptures and installations that acknowledge Indigenous histories and presence in such a meaningful way.

Next, we stopped at the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica, Ottawa’s oldest and largest church. It’s this stunning mix of Neo-Gothic architecture, twin silver spires, and a richly decorated interior filled with carved wood and colourful stained glass.

And just across the river, in Gatineau, Quebec, we visited the Canadian Museum of History — easily one of the best museums in the country. Designed by architect Douglas Cardinal, the building itself is a work of art, all curves and organic forms that seem to flow right out of the landscape. Inside, the Grand Hall features to

 totem poles and immersive exhibits that explore Canada’s Indigenous and colonial past.
Having studied so much of this recently for the citizenship exam, it all hit differently. It wasn’t just academic anymore — it felt personal. But honestly, it’s a huge museum. You could easily spend a few days here and still not see everything.

By afternoon, our focus shifted from history to food — of course! We checked out of our hotel, the Andaz Ottawa ByWard Market, and made a pilgrimage to a little place called Golden Fries, out in Orléans.
It’s this unassuming roadside spot that’s locally famous for having the best poutine in Ottawa — and yes, they do a vegan version with dairy-free cheese curds. We devoured it in the car like teenagers. Greasy, comforting, perfect.
Then it was off to Farm Boy, one of my favourite Eastern Canadian grocery chains, to stock up for the next few days. If you’re not familiar, it’s a bit like Whole Foods meets Trader Joe’s — but Canadian. Their vegan selection is fantastic: we grabbed pre-made salads, vegan Parmesan, muffins, cookies… all the essentials for a cozy cabin stay.

From there, we left the city behind and drove north into Quebec’s lake country, where the landscape slowly shifted into rolling hills and flame-coloured forests.
Our destination: a gorgeous little A-frame cabin near Lake McGregor — Le Refuge de Colline.
It’s one of those places that feels like a secret — polished concrete floors, a spiral staircase leading up to a loft bedroom, and huge windows that look out into the forest. The air smelled like pine and woodsmoke, and just outside was our private hot tub, steaming under a canopy of autumn leaves.
That night, we made a simple dinner — pasta with Beyond Meat bolognese — and sat under the stars, letting the last of the travel stress melt away.
It was the perfect beginning to our week: cozy, peaceful, and unmistakably Canadian.

We woke up to the most perfect autumn morning at Le Refuge de Colline, our little A-frame haven tucked into the trees. The light was golden, the air cool but not cold, and for the first time in weeks, I felt completely rested.
After coffee on the deck — surrounded by nothing but forest and birdsong — we packed up and headed out for the day. Our plan was to explore Gatineau Park, one of Canada’s most loved conservation areas, just north of Ottawa.
But first — food.
On our way, we stumbled upon this absolute gem in the small village of Chelsea called Naturally Véro. It turned out to be much more than a café — part bakery, part health shop, and completely vegan. The display case was overflowing with beautiful baked goods, colourful salads, and teas.
It had that warm, community feel that’s so rare to find — locals chatting, people coming in for takeaway soups, the smell of cinnamon and coffee in the air. I grabbed a few treats for later and made a mental note that if anyone’s visiting this area, Naturally Véro is a must-stop before a day of exploring.

From there, we stopped at the Gatineau Park Visitor Centre, where the staff pointed us toward Trail 72, about a 12-minute drive away. Before setting off, I have to mention this because it’s such a random joy — the pit toilets there were the cleanest I’ve ever seen. Checked daily, stocked, spotless. A small miracle in the hiking world!
The trail itself was short — about two kilometres each way — but it wound through some of the most breathtaking near-peak foliage I’ve ever seen. The path started through open, boggy terrain and slowly climbed to a lookout over a lake and valley. The view was pure autumn magic: layers of red, orange, and gold stretching into the distance, mirrored on the still water below.
And the best part? It was quiet. Hardly anyone else around. Midweek hikes are always the secret — the trails feel like your own private forest.

After our hike, we drove into Gatineau for lunch, and honestly… it might have been one of the best vegan meals I’ve ever had.
The restaurant was called Astoria Bistro Botanique, a 100% vegan spot that completely exceeded expectations. It’s huge — multiple dining rooms, a downstairs event space, and even an attached pâtisserie run by the same owners.
Even on a Tuesday afternoon, the place was buzzing. The menu was full of creative comfort food — things like wild mushroom risotto, oyster mushroom wings, and this French Onion Mac & Cheese that I had to order. Seb went for a burger, naturally.
They even had a Pumpkin Spice Espresso Martini on the menu, which I didn’t order but instantly regretted.
Everything was delicious — the kind of meal that makes you pause after each bite and just appreciate that this exists in a small Canadian city.
After lunch, we wandered next door to the Pâtisserie Botanique, where the dessert display was almost too beautiful to touch — delicate vegan macarons with perfect little feet, glossy tarts, and espresso drinks made with real care. You could easily have convinced me we were in Paris.

With happy stomachs and full hearts, we made one last stop for the day — Champlain Lookout and the nearby King Mountain Trail.
Champlain Lookout sits high on the Eardley Escarpment, a dramatic ridge that marks the edge of the Canadian Shield. From the top, the views stretch endlessly over the Ottawa Valley — a patchwork of farmland, forest, and winding rivers. The air was crisp, the light soft, and the colours almost surreal.
The King Mountain Trail wound through maple and beech trees, with interpretive signs explaining the geology beneath our feet — rocks that are hundreds of millions of years old. It was humbling and breathtaking all at once.
By the time we got back to our cabin, dusk was falling. I made a vegan spaghetti bolognese with Beyond Meat, and we slipped into the hot tub under a clear sky.
Steam rising, leaves rustling, the faint smell of woodsmoke in the air — one of those moments where everything feels exactly right.
It was one of the best days I’ve had in a long time.
We managed to leave our cozy cabin early — which, let’s be honest, is a small miracle when we’re not on a group trip. The morning was cool and bright, and the leaves were at their absolute best — that glowing, saturated colour that looks like it’s been turned up a notch in real life.
We drove about two hours south to Sentier des Cimes Laurentides, near Saint-Faustin–Lac-Carré. It’s not a national or provincial park, but a privately run eco-attraction designed to help people connect with nature in a gentle, accessible way. And it’s beautiful — the architecture alone is worth the trip. Everything is made from warm wood and natural stone, blending perfectly into the forest around it.
At the entrance, you start walking along a long elevated boardwalk that gradually rises through the trees. The higher you go, the more the canopy opens, and the views start to appear — bursts of red and orange leaves stretching in every direction. Then, at the heart of the experience, there’s this incredible spiral tower that winds up above the treetops.
From the top, we had 360-degree views of the Laurentians — one of the world’s oldest mountain ranges. In autumn, it’s pure magic. The hills looked like a living patchwork quilt, stitched together with maple reds, birch yellows, and evergreen pines.
In the middle of the tower, there’s a giant suspended net — kind of like a huge trampoline, except you don’t bounce. You just lie there, looking straight down through the webbing to the forest floor far below. It’s exhilarating and oddly peaceful at the same time.
On the way back down the boardwalk, there’s a bird-feeding station — one of those unexpected little joys that stops you in your tracks. We spotted red-breasted woodpeckers, blue jays, nut-hatches, chickadees, and even a few cheeky squirrels darting around, collecting seeds. It was such a simple, happy moment — surrounded by birds and colour and crisp air.
Before leaving, Seb convinced me to try the toboggan-style slide that spirals down from the tower. He went first, of course. I followed — screaming the entire way down — but laughing too hard to care. Completely worth it.
From there, we drove toward Mont-Blanc, a small ski area near Saint-Faustin–Lac-Carré, and took the Cabriolet Mont-Tremblant — a cute open-air gondola that glides up through the pedestrian village. The ride itself is short, but the views are spectacular — the kind of scenery that makes you feel like you’re inside a postcard.
It was chilly by that point, but the sky was perfectly blue. We had a simple outdoor lunch with the snacks we’d packed from the day before — nothing fancy, just good food with a great view — and then started the slow drive back.
Along the way, we passed through a few of those quintessential Quebec villages — the kind that look like they belong on Christmas cards — and stopped briefly in Val-David. It’s this artsy little town filled with markets, cafés, and local galleries, surrounded by forest and hiking trails. Driving through, I was reminded of the Le P’tit Train du Nord, a 234-kilometre trail that runs through the Laurentians along an old railway line. It’s open to cyclists, walkers, and e-bikers, connecting one charming village to the next. I first read about it years ago, and seeing the trail again reignited that desire to come back one day and do it properly — slowly, by e-bike, with plenty of bakery stops along the way.
By the time we reached our cabin that evening, the light was fading and the forest had gone quiet. We slipped back into our easy rhythm — dinner, hot tub, quiet music. My body was tired from the fresh air and laughter, but in that good, satisfying way that only comes from a perfect day outdoors.
That day summed up everything I love about autumn travel in Canada: the sense of space, the calm, the constant surprises — and how, even as vegans, we never once felt limited. Everything felt abundant — food, nature, beauty, and peace.

We woke up slowly in our beautiful little cabin, Le Refuge de Colline, surrounded by morning mist and the soft sounds of the forest. After several days of exploring, hiking, and long drives, we both felt ready for something slower — a full day dedicated to rest and recovery.
So, after breakfast, we packed up the car and made our way to Chelsea, just across the river from Ottawa, to spend the day at Nordik Spa-Nature — or as we’ve come to call it, simply Spa Nordik.
It’s hard to overstate how special this place is. Set on a forested hillside overlooking the Gatineau River, Nordik Spa-Nature is the largest Scandinavian-style spa in North America. Seb visits every time we’re in the Ottawa area, and I finally understood why.
The spa is built around the traditional Nordic thermal cycle — alternating between hot, cold, and rest — a practice that’s meant to cleanse the body and calm the mind. But what makes Spa Nordik so memorable isn’t just its scale or design; it’s the atmosphere. There’s something about the sound of waterfalls, the smell of cedar, and the sight of golden leaves fluttering around steaming pools that makes it feel almost magical.
What I love is that it isn’t one of those silent, overly strict spas. There are designated quiet areas, of course, but also a section called Panorama, where you can speak quietly and share the experience. That balance — serenity without stiffness — is exactly what I love about this place.
We arrived just before noon and stayed for over six blissful hours, moving slowly between saunas, steam rooms, hot pools, and cold plunges. The air was crisp, just cool enough to make the warmth of the water feel heavenly. When the afternoon sun came out, the whole place seemed to glow — steam rising from the pools, light filtering through the yellow leaves. It felt like a living painting.
One of the most unique parts of the day was joining a ritual sauna experience, called an Aufguss. A spa attendant came in with bundles of birch branches, dipping them into water infused with herbs and essential oils, then swirling them through the air in rhythmic, almost dance-like motions. The scent of the herbs filled the sauna as waves of hot air rolled over us. It was intense, cleansing, and oddly emotional — part performance, part ceremony.
After that, we plunged into one of the cold pools, gasping and laughing, before curling up by a firepit with herbal tea. It was one of those rare travel days where time completely dissolves — where you’re not counting hours or thinking about what’s next. You’re just there.
We ended our visit feeling soft, light, and deeply content. It’s no exaggeration to say this was one of the best spa experiences I’ve ever had — and I’ve been to quite a few. Spa Nordik captures that perfect mix of Canadian nature and Nordic wellness culture. It’s pure hygge — the Canadian way.
When we finally left, the sun had dipped low behind the trees, and the drive back to Ottawa was bathed in that golden end-of-day light. I remember thinking how good it felt to have a day devoted entirely to rest. After weeks of busy travel and long-haul flights, this day was exactly what we needed.
If you ever find yourself in this part of Canada, especially in autumn, Spa Nordik is the definition of a perfect day — for body, mind, and spirit.

Immersive history, parliamentary pride, and vegan comfort food
Our final day in the Ottawa region began quietly. Seb was planning to stay a few more days to catch some hockey with his cousin, but for me, this was the last chapter of our little autumn adventure.
We worked at the cabin until late morning — a gentle, productive few hours — before packing up the car one last time and heading back into Ottawa for a day of culture, history, and, of course, food.
Our first stop was the Parliament: The Immersive Experience, a new two-room exhibition that temporarily replaces the regular Parliament Hill tours. The original Parliament buildings — the ones with the iconic Peace Tower — are currently undergoing a massive restoration project expected to last until around 2033.
The immersive experience is housed nearby on Sparks Street, and it’s such a clever idea. The first room is set up like a museum, with models, artifacts, and exhibits that explain how Canada’s government works. The second room is where the magic happens — a 360-degree multimedia show that uses light, sound, and projections to bring Canadian democracy to life.
Our guide explained that it was designed to give visitors a sense of connection to Parliament even while the buildings are closed. And honestly, it worked. Sitting there surrounded by moving images of Canadian landscapes, hearing the voices of past leaders, and seeing moments from history come alive — it stirred something in me.
Maybe it was because I’ve been studying for my citizenship test, but standing there, learning about the people and values that shaped this country, made me feel genuinely proud to call Canada home.
After the exhibition, we had a bit of time to wander. We walked along the Rideau Canal, past the famous Ottawa Locks, where the canal meets the Ottawa River. It’s one of those spots that feels timeless — the old stone locks, the sound of the water, and the Fairmont Château Laurier rising like a castle in the background. The autumn light made everything glow.
Our next stop was a guided tour of the Senate of Canada, which is temporarily housed in what used to be Ottawa’s grand Union Station — now beautifully restored and renamed the Senate of Canada Building.
The building dates back to 1912, and its Beaux-Arts architecture is gorgeous — marble columns, vaulted ceilings, and elegant details everywhere. The tour itself was fascinating. Our guide walked us through the symbolism and rituals of the Senate — the meaning behind the red chamber, the role of the mace, and how Senators represent regions rather than political ridings. There was also a beautiful acknowledgment of Indigenous cultures in the artwork and design.
It was surprisingly moving. Seeing democracy in action, inside a space so steeped in history, made the whole idea of becoming a citizen feel even more significant.
After our fill of politics and heritage, it was time for something much less serious — lunch at Odd Burger.
If you haven’t heard of it, Odd Burger is a Canadian vegan fast-food chain that started in London, Ontario. Think burgers, fries, milkshakes — all 100% plant-based. And since it was Thanksgiving weekend, they were offering a limited-edition Holiday Poutine.
Picture this: golden fries topped with vegan cheese curds, crispy “chicken” strips seasoned with sage, a scoop of stuffing, cranberry sauce, and a generous pour of rich gravy. It was ridiculous — in the best possible way. A joyful, over-the-top vegan version of comfort food.
I also had a strawberry milkshake, which was a little sweet for me, but Seb loved his burger and classic poutine. It was such a fun and fitting end to the week — indulgent, a little silly, and so very Canadian.
After lunch, Seb dropped me off at the airport. Ottawa International was calm and easy, and before I knew it, I was through security and waiting for my flight. As I sat there, I thought about how full the week had been — not just in activities, but in meaning.
This trip wasn’t just about leaf-peeping or spa days or vegan food — though all of those were wonderful. It was about connection: to place, to people, and to this country that I’ve slowly been learning to call my own.
Autumn in Canada has a way of making you slow down, reflect, and feel grateful. And for me, it was a reminder that sometimes the best journeys aren’t the farthest ones — they’re the ones that bring you closer to home.

As I wrap up this episode — and this journey — I can’t help but feel such deep gratitude.
This week reminded me why I love exploring Canada so much. Not just for the postcard-perfect moments — the fiery trees, the lakes, the hot tubs under the stars — but for how this place feels.
There’s a gentleness to it. A sense of kindness and multiculturalism that runs through everyday life. And of course, this deep respect for nature — for the land, the wildlife, and the changing seasons — that you feel everywhere you go.
I’ve never really thought of myself as a patriotic person. In fact, I’ve often felt a bit allergic to that kind of flag-waving nationalism. But here’s the thing: as I get closer to officially becoming Canadian, I find myself feeling something new — not pride exactly, but belonging.
Maybe it’s because I’ve been studying Canada’s history and politics for my citizenship process, or maybe it’s because I’ve spent so much time outdoors here, walking with Seb through forests glowing in autumn light. But I’ve come to realise that this is a country whose values — things like fairness, diversity, and compassion — sit really comfortably with me.
It’s not perfect. I wish the political system had proportional representation, and like every country, it has its flaws. But more and more, I find myself thinking: this is a club I actually want to be part of.
Travelling here as a vegan has also been such a pleasant surprise. Whether in cities or small towns, the food scene is evolving so fast — creative, compassionate, and often far better than people expect. And when you pair that with the natural beauty of Canada in the fall, you get something truly special.
So yes — I’m falling for Canada. Slowly, genuinely, and wholeheartedly.
And I’m so glad we decided to go down this road.

And that brings us to the end of this episode of The World Vegan Travel Podcast.
If you enjoyed travelling with me through Canada’s golden autumn, I’d love for you to share this episode with a friend or fellow vegan traveller — or leave a quick rating wherever you listen. It really helps more people discover these stories.
You can also find photos, links, and resources from this trip — including my favourite vegan stops and fall travel tips — over on our website at worldvegantravel.com.
Wherever you are in the world, I hope this episode inspires you to slow down, savour the season, and maybe even fall in love with a place in a new way — just like I did with Canada.
Thanks so much for listening, and I’ll see you on the next adventure.