The World Vegan Travel Podcast
The World Vegan Travel Podcast
Vegan Travel in Ecuador | Exploring the Galápagos Part 2 | Brighde Reed
Set sail with Brighde in Part 2 of our Ecuador vegan travel mini-series as we journey to the breathtaking Galápagos Islands. From sea-lion-covered beaches and giant tortoises in misty highlands to penguins, blue-footed boobies, and snorkeling adventures in turquoise waters — this episode captures the heart of one of the world’s most extraordinary wildlife destinations.
Discover what it’s like to spend a week aboard a Relais & Châteaux yacht, enjoy creative vegan dining, explore volcanic islands like San Cristóbal, Española, Floreana, Bartolomé, and Santa Cruz, and reflect on how conservation and compassion come together in this unforgettable archipelago.
💚 Our 2026 Galápagos trips are already sold out, but pre-registration for 2027 is open now — find the link in the show notes and start dreaming of your own Galápagos adventure!
🌿 We're heading back to Vietnam in 2026 and you're invited! A few spots are still available — Click here to learn more and book.
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Welcome back to the World Vegan Travel Podcast and the second part of our Ecuador mini-series! If you haven’t listened to Episode 1 yet, I really recommend going back to hear about our time in Guayaquil and Cuenca — it sets the stage for the adventure you’re about to hear. Because today… we’re heading to the Galápagos Islands. This is the heart of our trip, and honestly one of the most incredible travel experiences I’ve ever had. Picture wild sea lions, prehistoric-looking iguanas, giant tortoises that can live over a hundred years, and volcanic landscapes that feel like another planet. We spent a week aboard Evolve, a Relais & Châteaux yacht, exploring the islands by zodiac, on foot, and in the water. And here’s a little side note before we dive in — our 2026 Galápagos departures are already sold out. But if this episode sparks your wanderlust (and I think it will), we’ve opened pre-registration for our 2027 trip, and I’ll share how you can sign up at the end. Alright, let’s set sail Main Part Day 1: Arrival in San Cristóbal & First Encounters Alright, so day one in the Galápagos… and wow, it hit me straight away that this was going to be something really special. Even before we landed, the experience was different. On the mainland, they zip-tied our luggage shut after the last inspection. And when we landed in San Cristóbal, it wasn’t the usual airport chaos. It felt calm, small, and very, very strict — every bag scanned, every crumb checked. And I love that. Because you realize quickly how seriously they protect these islands. They have to. And then — within five minutes of arriving in town — the sea lions stole the show. Honestly, it’s comical. There’s this smart little waterfront promenade in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital, and the benches? Not for people. Sea lions have completely claimed them. They’re stretched out snoozing, flippers in the air, sometimes three piled on top of each other. There was even one right in the middle of a walkway — and you just step around it like it owns the place. Which, let’s be honest, it kind of does. They’re noisy too. The big males, or bulls, bark constantly to let everyone know who’s boss. The pups are adorable — squeaky, curious, and always getting in the way. At one point we watched a pup trying to wedge itself between two adults on a bench like, ‘Hey guys, make room!’ It was impossible not to laugh. That’s what I mean when I say the Galápagos is different — the animals just don’t care that we’re there. They live their lives right in front of you. In the afternoon we headed inland to the Cerro Colorado Tortoise Breeding Center. Now, if you’ve seen giant tortoises before, you know they’re impressive. But when you see them here, knowing they’re being carefully raised and reintroduced to the wild, it hits differently. These creatures are huge — up to 250 kilos in adulthood — and they can live for more than 100 years. But what I love most is how much they shape their environment. They make trails through the forest just by walking, they spread seeds in their dung, they even create little ponds when they wallow in the mud. They’re like the landscape architects of the Galápagos. We saw the babies too — tiny, fragile, and carefully protected in enclosures until they’re old enough to survive on their own. Some were only the size of a tennis ball! It’s hard to imagine them turning into those lumbering giants. What really stuck with me, though, was the landscape on San Cristóbal. It’s dry, dotted with cacti and palo santo trees that give off this subtle, resin-y scent. And all around, birds. The famous Darwin’s finches, hopping around the paths, each with slightly different beaks. These little guys were such a key part of Darwin’s theory of evolution, but in real life, they just look like cheeky little sparrows. We finished the day back by the pier as the sun was setting. The light was golden, sea lions were shuffling around, blue-footed boobies were diving headfirst into the water after fish — which is just amazing to watch, by the way. They hit the water like little missiles. And then this perfect moment: a sea lion pup slid right into the water next to our zodiac, popped up to look at us with those big eyes, and then zipped away under the waves. It felt like the Galápagos was saying, ‘Okay, welcome. You’re in our world now.’ And that was just day one. Sea lions everywhere, baby tortoises, volcanic landscapes, golden sunsets… and I knew right then, the next few days were going to blow my mind.” Day 2: Cerro Brujo, Snorkeling with Sea Lions & the Punta Pitt Hike “Day two in the Galápagos was the kind of day where you just keep saying, ‘Did that really just happen?’ We started at Cerro Brujo, this long, white coral beach with turquoise water, volcanic cliffs, and, of course, sea lions sprawled out everywhere. It’s the kind of beach you’d call picture-perfect if it weren’t for the soundtrack of barking, grunting sea lions claiming every shady spot. First Snorkel: Wetsuits, Fins & Facing the Cold From the beach, we had our very first snorkeling adventure of the trip. On board, everyone had already been fitted for wetsuits, fins, and snorkels, and let me tell you, squeezing into those wetsuits was a comedy show in itself. There’s a lot of wriggling, tugging, and unflattering hopping around until you’re zipped up like a sausage. But once you’re in, you’re grateful, because the water in the Galápagos is cold — those Humboldt and Cromwell currents bring nutrients that feed all this life, but they definitely don’t feel tropical when you first put your face in. The first few minutes in the water are always a little awkward — adjusting your mask, getting used to breathing through the snorkel, maybe swallowing a mouthful of seawater if you’re unlucky. But then it clicks. You relax into the rhythm of slow breathing, floating, and looking. And that’s when the magic happens. Sea Lions in Their Element Almost immediately, we had sea lions zipping around us. And this is where you realize: on land they’re noisy, clumsy, sometimes grumpy — but underwater they’re like gymnasts. They twist and spiral, darting in close and then shooting away in a burst of bubbles. One did this dramatic flip right in front of me, as if showing off, and I actually laughed into my snorkel. Pauline and Veronique got in too, which was so special to watch. Pauline was a little nervous, but with her float ring for confidence, she was suddenly surrounded by fish and then — a curious sea lion pup circling her like she was the entertainment. The grin on her face said it all. Veronique was pointing excitedly at fish within minutes — totally absorbed. It was beautiful to see them both just doing it, even though it was outside their comfort zones. The water was alive with color: parrotfish flashing turquoise and orange, schools of tiny silver fish catching the sunlight, bright yellow surgeonfish gliding in perfect formation. And all the while, the sea lions moving faster than you can track, coming in for a close look before darting away again. Snorkeling has its challenges — masks fog, fins rub, currents tug you around — but here’s the thing: the guides were incredible. They hovered nearby, ready to help, pointing out animals, making sure everyone felt safe. And once you settle in, it’s meditative. You’re just breathing, floating, watching. And being watched — by sea lions, no less.” Punta Pitt Hike: The Tri-Booby Spectacle “After lunch, we crossed a choppy channel to Punta Pitt, at the far eastern tip of San Cristóbal. The landscape was wild — ochre-colored tuff cones rising like a jagged amphitheater. Pauline decided to skip the hike (it starts with a pretty steep climb), and in a lucky twist, her zodiac detoured and ended up spotting a humpback whale mother and calf surfacing within about 20 meters. Such an extraordinary gift — not many people get that close a look. The rest of us tackled what they call a ‘level-4 hike.’ That means steep, rocky, and uneven, with rough-cut steps that had us puffing a bit. But once you reach the plateau, the land opens up into this rugged terrace, windswept and dotted with cactus. It felt raw, elemental — like a place carved out by wind and time. And the payoff? This is the only place in the whole Galápagos where you can see all three species of boobies nesting together. It’s like the grand stage for booby drama. Blue-footed boobies, doing their famous silly dance — lifting one turquoise foot at a time, showing off like, ‘Look how bright my feet are! Pick me!’ Red-footed boobies, nesting in low shrubs and trees, their vivid red legs gripping branches while their clownish blue bills made them look half-comic, half-gorgeous. Nazca boobies, bigger and more elegant, nesting on the ground, tending to their fluffy white chicks hunkered against the breeze. Add to that two species of frigatebirds, soaring above with those giant red throat pouches inflated like balloons — the ultimate show-off move to attract females. The whole place was alive with sound and movement: chicks squawking, adults preening, the wind howling across the cliffs. We even spotted Darwin’s finches hopping around, and patches of endemic plants tinged red against the black lava, adding splashes of color to the stark landscape. It was dramatic and humbling all at once.” Comic Relief: The Sea Lion Thief “On the way back to the beach, we had one of those classic Galápagos moments: a very opinionated sea lion decided our towels and dry bag made the perfect pillow. And when our guide tried to shoo it away? The sea lion barked back, like, ‘Excuse me, I was here first.’ Everyone doubled over laughing. It was such a perfect reminder that here, humans aren’t in charge — the animals are.” Ending the Day “That evening, we returned to the yacht sunburned, salty, exhilarated, and a little tired. Over drinks on deck, we swapped stories — Pauline about her whale sighting, the rest of us about boobies and steep climbs, and everyone about those unforgettable sea lions in the water. It was only day two, and already the Galápagos had given us sea lion nurseries, playful underwater acrobatics, boobies nesting on a wind-battered plateau, and even a humpback whale cameo. I remember thinking: if this is the start, how on earth are the days ahead going to top it?” Day 3: Española Island – Punta Suárez & Gardner Bay “Alright, so day three — and this was one of my absolute favorite days of the whole trip. We visited Española Island, which is the oldest island in the Galápagos, about four million years old. It’s dry, rugged, and dramatic — lava cliffs, blowholes, and beaches so white they almost hurt your eyes. And it’s packed with wildlife. Like, honestly, everywhere you looked, there was something happening. Punta Suárez – Albatrosses & Iguanas Everywhere We started at Punta Suárez, which is famous because it’s the only place in the world where the waved albatross breeds. These birds are enormous — their wingspan can be over two meters — and they spend most of their lives at sea. But here, for just a few months each year, they come back to land to mate and raise their chicks. And let me tell you, watching their courtship dance was one of those spine-tingling moments. The pairs face each other, bow dramatically, clack their beaks together like castanets, and then lift their heads skyward in this slow, almost choreographed routine. It’s tender and a bit comical, but also deeply moving because these birds mate for life. You feel like you’re watching a couple reaffirm their vows, year after year. On the ground, marine iguanas were everywhere, piled on top of each other in these lazy heaps. Española’s iguanas are unique — they’ve got this reddish, greenish tint to them, so they’ve been nicknamed the “Christmas iguanas.” They look prehistoric, with their spiky crests and blunt noses. And the coolest thing? They’re the only iguanas in the world that actually forage in the sea. They dive down, scrape algae off the rocks, and then come back onto land to warm up. And when they warm up? They sneeze out excess salt from special glands in their noses — so you’ll often hear little sneezes all around you. It’s funny once you know what it is. We also saw blue-footed boobies nesting along the path — fluffy white chicks huddled under parents, while others practiced their high-step dance. Nazca boobies were there too, larger and more serious-looking, their nests just a few feet from the trail. And then the frigatebirds soaring overhead with their enormous wingspans. Honestly, it was like walking through a wildlife documentary. And then there’s the blowhole — this natural lava formation where waves crash in and shoot water 20 meters into the air. With the wind howling, the spray catching the sun, and birds circling above, it felt almost cinematic.” Gardner Bay – Sea Lion Paradise “In the afternoon, we headed to Gardner Bay, which is one of those postcard beaches you’ve probably seen in every Galápagos brochure: long stretches of white sand, turquoise water, and, you guessed it, sea lions everywhere. Here it was all about just being among them. Dozens of mothers and pups sprawled across the sand — nursing, dozing, occasionally bickering. The pups were endlessly entertaining, squirming around and making their squeaky little cries. One bold pup even wriggled right up to our group and flopped down on someone’s backpack like it was the comfiest pillow in the world. We also got back in the water for another snorkel, and Gardner Bay was magical. The water was clearer and calmer, and again, the sea lions stole the show. They’d dart in, swim tight circles around us, then zoom off with impossible speed. At one point I had two pups literally playing tag just a few feet away — it felt like they were inviting us into their game. We spotted reef fish too, flashes of yellow and blue weaving between the rocks, and big parrotfish crunching algae. And of course, sea turtles gliding past, utterly unbothered by our presence. What I love about snorkeling in the Galápagos is how you’re not just looking at animals — you’re sharing space with them. They’re not scared, they’re not hiding. You’re in their world, and they let you be part of it. It’s humbling and exhilarating all at once.” Reflections “Española was just unforgettable. In the morning, we had the drama of albatrosses dancing on the cliffs, iguanas sneezing salt and basking in heaps, and boobies raising chicks. In the afternoon, we had the softness of Gardner Bay — sea lion nurseries, curious pups, snorkeling with turtles and playful pups. It was the perfect mix of awe and joy. By the time we got back to the yacht, everyone was buzzing — comparing which sea lion pup was the cutest, which albatross dance was the funniest, and laughing about sandy towels and damp wetsuits. And I remember thinking: this is exactly what the Galápagos does so well. It blows your mind with raw natural spectacle, and then makes you laugh out loud with some cheeky animal encounter. All in one day.” Day 4: Floreana Island – Green Sands, Pink Flamingos & Postcards Without Stamps “By Wednesday, we’d settled into the rhythm of the yacht — early wake-ups, landings, adventures, meals, and stories on deck at night. But Floreana felt different. It’s often called the ‘Island of Mysteries’ because of its quirky human history — pirates, whalers, and a few failed colonists. But for us, it was about the wildlife and some of the most unusual landscapes we’d seen so far. Morning – Punta Cormorant We stepped ashore at Punta Cormorant, and right away, the sand caught my eye. It wasn’t the blinding white we’d seen elsewhere. Instead, it was a deep olive-green color. That’s because of a high concentration of minerals — iron and magnesium from volcanic lava — the same kind of thing you find in Hawaii. It looked almost glittery in the morning light. The beach was alive with sound: sea lions barking, lava herons stalking along the shoreline, yellow-crowned night herons shuffling carefully through the shallows, and blue-footed boobies dive-bombing out at sea. As we walked inland, the landscape shifted to mangroves and little flowers like morning glories and cut-leaf daisies. The guides pointed out endemic plants — palo verde trees, Scalesia shrubs — and then, suddenly, we reached a brackish lagoon. And there they were — flamingos. That shock of bubblegum pink against the green of the lagoon and the black lava. They were sifting through the water with those strange upside-down beaks, straining tiny shrimp that give them their color. We also spotted Bahama ducks, common stilts, and even a Galápagos flycatcher darting after insects. It felt like stepping into a painting — bold, unexpected splashes of color everywhere. The trail led us out to another beach, and here the focus shifted from birds to reptiles. This is where sea turtles come to nest in the dunes. You could see the faint outlines of old nests and tracks leading up from the surf. In the shallow water, stingrays moved like ghosts — just shadows sliding under the sand. It was calm, quiet, and felt very ancient, like the island was holding its secrets.” Snorkeling – Champion Islet “After our walk, it was time to get back into wetsuits and snorkels. Today’s site was near Champion Islet, a sunken volcanic crater teeming with life. Sliding into the water, the first thing I noticed was how clear and bright everything was. Schools of brilliantly colored fish swirled around us — surgeonfish, angelfish, parrotfish crunching loudly on coral. Every direction you turned, there was movement. And then — a sea turtle. Massive, slow, ancient. It glided past so calmly, barely flicking its flippers, and we all just froze, holding our breath (well, through snorkels) to take it in. A few minutes later, a spotted eagle ray soared by — graceful, wings undulating as it disappeared into the blue. Some of the group even saw white-tipped reef sharks cruising along the sandy bottom. They looked sleek, efficient, not scary at all, just part of the seascape. Sea stars clung to the rocks, bright orange and red against the black lava. It was sensory overload in the best way — colors, movement, life everywhere.” Afternoon – Post Office Bay “After lunch back on the yacht, we went ashore at one of the most charmingly human places in the Galápagos: Post Office Bay. This is a tradition that dates back to the late 1700s, when English whalers set up a wooden barrel to leave letters for home. Other sailors passing through would pick them up and deliver them — no stamps, no postmen, just trust and community. And the tradition continues today. Visitors drop postcards into the barrel, and others look through the pile for cards they can hand-deliver back home. We flipped through a stack with addresses from all over the world. Some were going to Europe, some to the U.S., and yes — even a few to Canada. We left our own postcards, so who knows — maybe someone listening to this will end up hand-delivering one of ours! It was such a fun contrast to everything else we’d been doing. After days of sea lions, boobies, and turtles, here we were, connecting with strangers through something as simple as the mail.” Panga Ride at Baroness Point “To wrap up the day, we did a zodiac ride around Baroness Point, gliding along mangrove-lined lagoons. The water was calm and glassy, and we spotted sea turtles surfacing for air with that telltale deep inhale. Golden rays drifted beneath us, their wings flapping slowly like birds underwater. At one point, we leaned over the side of the zodiac, snapping photos of sea stars carpeting the shallows. It was peaceful, almost meditative, after such a high-energy morning. A perfect way to close out the day.” Reflections “Floreana had everything: unusual green-sand beaches, pink flamingos, giant sea turtles nesting in the dunes, a snorkel teeming with rays, fish, and sharks, plus this quirky little piece of human history at Post Office Bay. It’s a smaller island, but it gave us some of the biggest contrasts — wild, ancient nature on one hand, and this very human, heartwarming tradition on the other. That mix is what makes Galápagos so special. You go from watching flamingos in the morning to pulling postcards out of a barrel in the afternoon. Where else in the world can you do that?” Day 5: Santa Cruz Island – Giant Tortoises, Lonesome George & Everyday Galápagos Life “By Thursday, we were halfway through our Galápagos adventure, and the day’s theme was really about understanding the islands in a deeper way — not just as a visitor looking at wildlife, but as someone trying to understand how conservation and everyday life intersect here. Morning – Into the Highlands for Giant Tortoises After breakfast, we took a bus ride up into the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, where the climate shifts dramatically. One minute you’re in the dry, dusty coastal zone, and the next it’s lush, misty, and green. This is tortoise country. What’s amazing is that these giant tortoises aren’t corralled into a sanctuary or fenced-in reserve. The ranchland we visited just happens to be right along their migratory path. So you’re literally walking among them in their natural environment. And wow — there were so many. Huge tortoises munching on grass, others lumbering slowly across fields, and quite a few just chilling in muddy ponds. The ponds are a two-for-one deal for tortoises: they cool off in the heat and the mud helps kill parasites. They looked almost prehistoric, their shells streaked with algae, their leathery heads just poking above the water like boulders with eyes. We wore Wellington boots to slosh through the mud — a glamorous look, but absolutely necessary. At one point I stood next to one and realized: this creature was almost as big as me sitting down. Some weigh up to 250 kilos, and they can live more than a century. The guides called them “ecosystem engineers,” because of how they shape the land — trampling paths, creating wallows, spreading seeds in their dung. It really does feel like they’re the gardeners of the Galápagos. Lunch Back Aboard Back on the yacht for lunch, we were treated to a colorful buffet with a Mexican flair — tacos, beans, guacamole, salsa, and all the fixings. And I have to say, this was my favorite lunch so far. Fresh, vibrant, and a little spicy. After a muddy morning in the highlands, it hit the spot perfectly. Afternoon – Charles Darwin Research Station In the afternoon we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station in Puerto Ayora. This place is the beating heart of Galápagos conservation. It’s here that the famous tortoise breeding programs are run, raising hatchlings until they’re about five years old, when they’re strong enough to survive in the wild. Walking through the breeding center, you see the full story laid out: the tiny babies in protective enclosures, the slightly older juveniles learning to forage, and then the adults waiting for release. It’s practical, science-based, and full of hope — an ongoing effort to make sure these species don’t go the way of Lonesome George. And of course, we stopped at the enclosure where Lonesome George once lived. He was the last surviving member of the Pinta Island subspecies, discovered in 1971. For decades, researchers tried to breed him with closely related females, but he never produced offspring. When he died in 2012, it was the end of his line. His story is both heartbreaking and galvanizing — a reminder of what’s at stake, but also what conservation can still achieve when we act in time. Exploring Puerto Ayora – Laundromats & Beyond Burgers After the research station, we had a bit of free time in Puerto Ayora, the bustling little town on Santa Cruz. My mission was a bit less glamorous than tortoises: scouting laundromats. Laundry on the yacht is very expensive, so I wanted to see what options exist for future travelers. And yes — I found a couple of good ones that could definitely come in handy on future trips. We also popped into a local supermarket, and this was so fun. Alongside Ecuadorian staples, there were shelves with Beyond Burgers and Beyond Sausages — right here in the Galápagos! It was such a funny little collision of worlds: high-tech plant-based meat next to tropical fruit and local snacks. It immediately got me thinking about how we could use some of these products in future menus. For me, those everyday details are just as exciting as spotting a rare bird — it shows how vegan travel here can be not just possible, but delicious. Evening – A Quiet End By the evening, though, I started to feel the first tickle of a cold coming on. Nothing dramatic, just that tired, heavy feeling. So instead of joining the group for dinner, I curled up quietly in my cabin with tea, tissues, and my journal. Not the most glamorous ending to the day, but honestly, after everything we’d seen and learned, it was nice to have a quiet moment to let it all sink in. Reflections Santa Cruz was one of those days that makes you step back and think. In the morning, we were surrounded by wild, hundred-year-old tortoises living exactly as they should. In the afternoon, we saw the science and human effort that makes sure future generations of tortoises survive. And in between, we glimpsed the rhythm of local life — laundromats, supermarkets, plant-based burgers in the Galápagos. It was a reminder that these islands aren’t just about animals and landscapes; they’re also about people — researchers, guides, locals — all playing their part in the story. And for us, as vegan travelers, it showed that even in the most remote corners of the world, thoughtful choices are being made that connect back to the bigger picture of conservation and compassion.” Day 6: Bartolomé & Black Turtle Cove – Steps, Snorkels & Still Waters “Friday was one of those perfectly balanced Galápagos days — physically active in the morning, deeply peaceful in the afternoon, and finished off with a gorgeous dinner on board. Morning – Bartolomé’s Famous Climb After breakfast, we made a dry landing at Bartolomé Island, one of the youngest islands in the archipelago. The landscape here feels otherworldly — almost lunar — with jagged volcanic cones, black lava fields, and very little vegetation. The big challenge of the morning was the climb to the summit: 350 wooden steps winding their way up the hillside. It’s steady rather than brutal, and every switchback brings a new perspective on the dramatic scenery. At the top, the reward is one of the most iconic views in all of the Galápagos — Pinnacle Rock rising sharply from turquoise water, surrounded by stretches of black and rusty-red volcanic terrain. It’s the photo you’ve probably seen on every postcard, and seeing it with your own eyes is breathtaking. The view also tells the geological story of the islands. Bartolomé was formed by a volcanic eruption, and you can still see the spatter cones and lava tubes that mark where molten rock once bubbled and flowed. Standing at the top, with the wind in your face and the whole panorama laid out in front of you, you feel small in the best possible way — just one visitor in a place that’s been shaped by fire and water over millions of years. Coastal Dinghy Ride Back down at sea level, we hopped on a zodiac for a ride along Bartolomé’s rugged coast. The shoreline was a mix of jagged lava and calm bays, the contrast between harsh geology and abundant wildlife. We spotted seabirds perched on the cliffs — herons, pelicans, maybe even a blue-footed booby or two — scanning the waters for fish. The dinghy ride gave us a different angle on Pinnacle Rock too, rising like a spear out of the sea. Snorkeling at Bartolomé Then came the best part: snorkeling off the panga. By now, we were seasoned pros at pulling on wetsuits, masks, and fins, but that first plunge still makes your breath catch. The water was chilly but so alive. We drifted over schools of brilliantly colored fish — yellowtail surgeonfish flashing past in synchronized groups, parrotfish crunching algae loudly enough to hear through the water, and little damselfish darting around coral. Bright red and orange sea stars clung to the rocks, adding splashes of color against the black lava backdrop. And, in true Galápagos fashion, the unexpected happened: a penguin zipped by in the water, quick as a dart. Galápagos penguins are tiny compared to the Antarctic ones, but they’re the only penguin species to live north of the equator. Seeing one underwater, weaving between snorkelers like a torpedo, was just unforgettable. We also had curious sea lions swim in to check us out, darting and looping like they were playing games with us. Snorkeling here always feels like a gift — the mix of volcanic underwater landscapes and the sheer variety of life never gets old. Afternoon – Black Turtle Cove By midday we were back on the yacht for lunch, and as we sailed on toward Black Turtle Cove, the vibe shifted completely. This was the quiet part of the day. Black Turtle Cove is a sheltered mangrove lagoon on Santa Cruz Island, accessible only by dinghy. The moment we entered, everything slowed down. No motors, just paddles. The water was glassy and still, like a mirror reflecting the tangled mangroves. Beneath the surface, life moved gracefully — rays gliding silently, white-tipped reef sharks cruising slowly, and green sea turtles surfacing for air with that deep whoosh of a breath before disappearing again. Overhead, herons and pelicans perched in the mangrove branches, occasionally diving with a splash. The stillness, broken only by bird calls and the sound of oars in the water, made it feel meditative — a chance to just sit, breathe, and be in the moment. It was such a contrast to the morning’s energy — from climbing 350 steps and snorkeling with penguins to silently gliding through a mangrove forest. That yin and yang of the Galápagos is part of what makes it so special. Evening Aboard – Dinner with a Creative Twist Back on board, we gathered for our evening briefing with the naturalist guide, who set the stage for the next day at South Plaza and North Seymour. Then it was dinner time, and this one was memorable. The kitchen really outdid themselves with the vegetarian menu: a cauliflower couscous timbal with roasted pepper romesco, a silky potato locro soup with avocado, a rich Cayambe dried mushroom ragù served over palmito spaghetti, and for dessert — a mille-feuille layered with almond cream, amaretto, and fresh fruit. It was beautiful, creative, and exactly the kind of elevated vegan dining experience we want for our travelers. Reflections So that was Friday: Bartolomé’s epic climb and iconic views, snorkeling with penguins and sea lions, then an afternoon drifting through Black Turtle Cove in total peace. Perfect — thank you for the notes. Let’s turn Saturday, 30 August 2025 – South Plaza & North Seymour into a vivid, story-driven episode section in your voice: natural, personal, and descriptive. This was your final full day in the Galápagos, so the script should feel a little nostalgic and celebratory as well. Day 7: South Plaza & North Seymour – Iguanas, Frigatebirds & Fond Farewells “By Saturday, our final full day in the Galápagos, the trip had started to feel like a blur of sea lions, iguanas, birds, and snorkels. But somehow, the islands still had more surprises in store for us. Morning – South Plaza We began with a dry landing on South Plaza, one of the tiniest islands in the archipelago, formed by uplifted lava. It may be small, but wow — the colors here were spectacular. The ground was carpeted in sesuvium, a type of succulent that turns vivid red in the dry season, so the whole island looked like it had been painted crimson. Rising above it were stands of prickly pear cactus, their tall, spiny pads silhouetted against the sky. And then the wildlife. Sea lions were sprawled across the rocky shoreline, piled together in noisy heaps. But the real highlight was our very first close encounter with land iguanas. These guys are striking — golden-yellow bodies that blend perfectly with the volcanic rock, looking almost sculpted. They’re bulkier and more colorful than the marine iguanas we’d been seeing all week, and they feed mainly on those prickly pear cactus pads. Watching one tear into a spiny pad with complete indifference to the thorns was equal parts impressive and slightly painful-looking. The walk wasn’t long, but it felt like every step had something to see: swallow-tailed gulls nesting on the cliffs, frigatebirds gliding overhead, lava lizards darting across the path. South Plaza is tiny, but it packs an ecological punch.” Midday – Quiet Time on Board “After the walk, we returned to the yacht for a few hours of downtime. The ship paused for refueling, so there was a lull in activity. It actually felt nice to have a quiet stretch — people read on deck, sorted through photos, or just sat staring out at the water, soaking in the fact that this extraordinary journey was winding down. Over lunch on the Darwin Deck — our last midday meal on board — there was a bit of a bittersweet feeling in the air. You could sense everyone knew the end was close, even as we chatted and laughed. Our naturalist guide Jessica also gathered us for the departure briefing, walking us through the logistics of disembarking the next morning. It made everything feel suddenly real.” Afternoon – North Seymour “In the afternoon, we sailed to North Seymour Island, and while some guests went snorkeling, conditions were pretty rough — strong currents, choppy water — so most of us cut it short. After a quick shower and regroup, we headed back out for what turned into one of my favorite activities of the whole trip: the nature walk on North Seymour. The island is famous for its bird colonies, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. Everywhere we turned, there was something happening. The stars were the frigatebirds — and this time, we didn’t just see them soaring in the distance. We saw the males up close, puffed up with those iconic bright red throat pouches, looking like giant balloons against their glossy black feathers. They inflate them to attract females, and when you’re standing there, just a few meters away, watching a whole colony of inflated frigatebirds calling and posturing, it’s unforgettable. There were blue-footed boobies nesting too, with their fluffy chicks looking like little cotton balls, and some adults still showing off their high-step courtship dance. Pelicans skimmed low over the waves, and along the path we spotted more land iguanas basking in the last of the afternoon sun. Sea lions, of course, made their presence known — sprawled out on the beach, occasionally lifting their heads as if to say, ‘Yes, we’re still here.’ The energy of the island was electric. Birds wheeling overhead, chicks begging, males displaying — the air felt alive with activity. It was like standing in the middle of a living, breathing spectacle of ecology.” Evening – Farewell on Board “Back on the yacht that evening, it was time for our farewell celebration. The crew gathered with us in the lounge, there was a toast, and Jessica gave a heartfelt thank-you to everyone for sharing the week together. It was warm and genuine, and you could tell how much pride they take in what they do. Dinner was our final meal aboard, and it was fittingly special. Beautifully plated dishes, creative touches, and lots of conversation around the table about favorite moments — the sea lion pups, the albatross courtship dances, snorkeling with penguins, the tortoises in the highlands. Everyone had a different highlight, but the feeling was the same: this was a trip none of us would ever forget. Reflections Our last full day summed up everything I love about the Galápagos. The bold colors of South Plaza, the drama of North Seymour’s bird colonies, and then that quiet, meaningful celebration with the people who made it all happen. It was the perfect way to close out an extraordinary journey.” Outro And just like that, our week in the Galápagos came to an end. Seven days of waking up on a yacht to new horizons, stepping onto islands that felt like they belonged to another planet, and sharing space with animals that seemed to have no fear of us at all. We walked among giant tortoises older than most of us will ever be. We watched albatrosses clack their beaks and reaffirm lifelong bonds. We snorkeled with sea lions, penguins, turtles, rays — even the odd shark cruising calmly by. We climbed volcanic cones, drifted through mangrove lagoons, and laughed as sea lions stole our towels, our benches, and sometimes the show. What struck me most wasn’t just the sheer diversity of wildlife, but the way the Galápagos makes you feel like a guest in the truest sense. The animals don’t perform for you. They’re not behind fences or glass. They’re simply living their lives, and for a short moment, you’re invited into their world. It’s humbling, joyful, and unforgettable. And of course, sharing it with people I love — with Seb, with Pauline, with Veronique — made it all the more meaningful. The laughter, the nerves getting into the water for the first time, the ‘Did you see that?!’ moments — those are the memories that last. Now, a quick update for those of you listening who might be thinking, ‘I have to do this.’ Our 2026 Galápagos trips are completely sold out — which, honestly, I’m not surprised by. But we do have pre-registration open for 2027. If this episode has you dreaming of sea lions and blue-footed boobies, you’ll find the link in the show notes. And in the next episode, we’ll leave the islands behind and head back to the mainland — to Quito and the cloud forest. Chocolate, birdwatching, and even a chance of spotting Andean bears. So make sure you join me for that final chapter of our Ecuador adventure.