Vegan Hotel Switzerland | Ticino Escape | Isabella Bellani

Link for the show notes

In today’s episode, we’ll be talking to Isabella Bellani, who, together with her husband Maurizio, owns Garden Hotel Primavera in Brissago, Switzerland.

Garden Hotel Primavera is a fully vegan hotel on the shores of Lake Maggiore, in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. Isabella shares the story of how they transformed an abandoned building into a vegan hotel, what it’s like running this kind of business, and why Brissago and Lake Maggiore are such beautiful places for vegan travelers to visit.

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Transcript

Brighde: [00:00:00] Hello, Isabella. Welcome to the World Vegan Travel Podcast.
Isabella: It's so nice to be here. Thank you so much for having us.
Brighde: I'm so thrilled you're joining us. Before we pressed record on this, you were telling me that today is a very busy day. You're fully booked at your vegan hotel, which, of course, is great news, but it makes me even more grateful that you were able to join me today.
Isabella: It was a bit of a challenge, but I'm really glad to be here, and it gives me a little break, so I'm happy.
Brighde: Awesome. So, Isabella, you own, with your partner, a fully vegan hotel in a very special part of Switzerland. I'm always so excited to talk with people who own vegan hotels because there's always a really interesting story behind it, and it's quite a unique business model.
So we're going to get into all of that. Tell us a little bit about you and what you do at Garden Hotel Primavera in Switzerland.
Isabella: My husband and I [00:01:00] decided to open this hotel in 2021, and our main goal was to create a vegan hotel that would also offer experiences like yoga classes and transformational experiences. We also enjoy welcoming groups of vegan people who come over, and we organize the whole week for them.
So, for us, it has two parts. One, it's a bit of a mission for us to spread the vegan concept, and on the other hand, it's also to let people know about the beauty of our region, which is Ticino. We are on the shores of Lake Maggiore, which is one of the biggest lakes in northern Italy. The end part of the lake, the northern part, is Switzerland, and it's us. Ticino is actually where all the Swiss [00:02:00] people come on holiday in summer. It's the summer spot for Swiss people.
Brighde: And it's actually part of the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland. You have an Italian accent, I think.
Isabella: Yeah, we speak Italian here. The canton, Ticino, speaks Italian. Schools are in Italian. Everything is in Italian, and we live really close to Italy. It's only three kilometers from the border with Piedmont, so we are very close. This gives us a really Italian flair, but with a Swiss lifestyle.
Brighde: Well, I've only spent a very short amount of time in the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland. I was in Lugano for a couple of nights. It was seriously beautiful and so clean, so, so Swiss, but also vineyards everywhere and this Italian lake vibe. Of course, it's a Swiss lake vibe.
Beautiful [00:03:00] gardens, just stunning scenery. It was just lovely.
Isabella: And I would say that the lake where we are, because you were on Lake Lugano, we are on Lake Maggiore, and our lake is even more beautiful. It is especially interesting for those who enjoy Lake Como because we are not far away. We're like one hour and a half from Lake Como. But on Lake Maggiore, you enjoy a much more open scenery. You can see the islands because we have beautiful islands to visit. So it is an amazing spot, and it really needed a vegan place for vegans to be able to enjoy it.
Brighde: It just sounds absolutely idyllic. I'm so excited that you exist. I imagine that building a hotel from scratch, or I shouldn't say building because I know you took over an abandoned hotel, I'm guessing. And [00:04:00] now, today, in 2026, you're fully booked. How did you decide to open a hotel in this place, in this way, and what have been some of the unique challenges and rewards that you have experienced?
Isabella: We decided to open a hotel because I did a hotel management school, so this is what I always did. I used to work in property management with vacation rentals. In 2021, we had this opportunity to come back to Switzerland after 12 years in Italy and to come back to my hometown, which is Brissago, where the hotel is.
So this opportunity was amazing, and we decided to take it. I have to be honest, we actually didn't realize we would open a vegan hotel, because when we got the hotel, after we signed everything, my husband looked at me and said, "What are we going [00:05:00] to do? Because we are vegan." And I said, "Well, we have to have a vegan hotel because I cannot be in a normal hotel."
I needed it to be vegan for me to feel comfortable. My husband is vegan as well, and he was completely on board. So the main challenge, I would say, was to make people accept us in the area because this hotel used to belong to a hunter who had a restaurant where they would sell a lot of meat. So this was a shock for the people in the area.
The first two years, we had a restaurant, which was working pretty well. But after I got pregnant, and we already had two children, this was the third, and I couldn't work as much, so we decided to close the restaurant and keep the breakfast. So we are [00:06:00] concentrating a lot on the breakfast, on the brunch, and on the extra activities we do.
So the main challenge, I would say, was to be accepted by the community, and also by the Swiss people, because many, many Swiss are still very concentrated on cheese, fondue, and meat. But most of the people who come over, even if they're not vegan, and we have a lot of non-vegan guests, do enjoy being in a vegan hotel.
So this makes us really happy because it helps us to spread the vegan concept to people who don't know about it. So we create movement. This is something that we are really passionate about.
Brighde: Fabulous. I mean, I love the fact that you've got non-vegans staying in your hotel too, and that you've finally been accepted by the local community. But the hotel had been abandoned for a [00:07:00] while, so does that mean the hotel had gone out of business from the hunter who owned it?
Isabella: He didn't want to work anymore. So in 2019, he decided to stop, and there was no one else who wanted to restart it. So it basically was there, sitting empty. When we arrived, we saw a white canvas that we could recreate in our own way. If you go and see on the website, you will discover that all our rooms are different and that we have a very special vibe.
The challenge in that sense was to rebuild everything and to redecorate. Also, because the house is actually an old lady, because she will turn 100 in two years. So this was also a challenge because we didn't renovate everything, of course. It's not our building. We are renting [00:08:00] it.
So the challenge was also to rebuild it without going broke and to be able to create something special for our guests. It is a two-star hotel. It's a kind of small, family-run hotel, but it has a lot of heart.
Brighde: And how many rooms do you have in the hotel?
Isabella: We have 20, 22 rooms, depending on how we combine them.
Brighde: That's a lot.
Isabella: Yeah.
Brighde: A lot.
Isabella: It's kind of a middle size because it is a lot for a family-run hotel, but it is not that much to consider it a serious big hotel.
Brighde: And I've looked at your website, and I've looked at Google Maps, and you are located on the edge of Lake Maggiore. You have beautiful views from the hotel.
Isabella: All our rooms have amazing lake views. Most of them have terraces that people can enjoy during the day, and we have a lot of people who stay here because they want to enjoy the [00:09:00] sun and the calm because it's a very relaxing area. There is no noise, so people can really regenerate.
We have a beautiful garden and two big terraces where people can sometimes read. At this moment, right now, we have people on the terrace just enjoying reading and taking the sun. So, yeah.
Brighde: And what other facilities do you have? You mentioned that breakfast is included. I think I saw on the website you have yoga.
Isabella: We have yoga every Saturday morning, and we can combine it with breakfast. Even for people who are not staying at the hotel, they can book yoga and breakfast, which is very appreciated. We have yoga and Pilates on Tuesday that can be booked by guests or by people from outside. Our breakfast is pretty famous.
We have people coming from outside to have [00:10:00] breakfast. They sometimes don't even sleep at the hotel, but they maybe rent a house and want to have breakfast here.
Brighde: That's a good idea. That's super fun.
Isabella: We cooperate with a massage therapist. So if you book a room, you can also book a massage, which is a special four-hands massage, something a bit uncommon but really nice. I personally tried it, and I have to say it's something really special.
More than that, we're organizing seminars. The next one is going to be at the end of the month, and it's for women. Normally, these seminars are for small groups between four and six people, and this allows everyone to be really deep into it with the teacher. So it's much more interesting than being in a big group.
We have a nice lobby where we have [00:11:00] a library. You can have your coffee, read a book, or you can have aperitivo. We have prosecco in the fridge and glasses always available that you can enjoy on the terrace with some little Italian aperitivo.
Brighde: How lovely. And I think you also have a relationship with a lovely restaurant close to the water where they provide a vegan dinner on request or something like that. How does that work?
Isabella: They basically prepared a special menu for us, and the guests who are vegan can enjoy the half-board price and choose among different dishes. So it is something very nice because you can have dinner right on the lake shore. I have to say that Kalea, the restaurant with which we work, is one of the best restaurants in Brissago.
What I wanted to say as well is Brissago has different restaurants, and since we opened, [00:12:00] most of them are now offering both classical dishes and vegan options, which are not the typical basic pasta with tomato, grilled vegetables, and French fries. So you can really choose amongst special dishes that have been thought through by the chefs.
So we are very proud of this.
Brighde: I think you should be. I love the fact that you did have a restaurant, but you decided, for completely understandable reasons, to just focus on the breakfast. But now all of the restaurants nearby are choosing to integrate vegan food into their menus, which is super awesome because Brissago is not a large town, is it?
It's quite small, and normally in the countryside and in small towns, vegan options can be a little bit slim.
Isabella: No, we're really lucky because Kalea [00:13:00] has done an amazing job, and all our guests who have had dinner there or lunch, if they prefer, are really, really happy. But as well, when they just go freely to other places, they always find vegan choices, and they are always happy about them. Even the smallest pizzeria has a vegan pizza on the menu. Yeah.
Brighde: That's awesome.
Isabella: Yeah.
Brighde: And a question that I have before we talk about why Brissago and Lake Maggiore are such a wonderful place to spend a vacation: can you explain how people get to Brissago? Because it's sort of a little bit out of the way, maybe. It's not super easy to get to. Maybe I'm wrong.
Isabella: Oh, it depends. If you fly, for example, if you are from abroad and you want to fly in, you have two options. Either you fly to Zurich, and then you very easily catch the train from Zurich train station, and you [00:14:00] go all the way to Locarno. Then you're basically 20 minutes away from us because, with just a bus ride, you are at the hotel.
The second one is to fly to Malpensa, and from Malpensa you...
Brighde: Milan.
Isabella: Yeah, Milano Malpensa. Then from Malpensa, you have buses that go along the lake on the Italian side and reach us easily in, I would say, one hour and a half, two hours.
Brighde: Okay, that's...
I haven't spent any time on Lake Maggiore, but I have on some of the Italian lakes, and it is stunning. It's just scenic, beautiful scenery everywhere you look.
Isabella: Yes, it is.
Brighde: So, you have very kindly put together a five-day itinerary of what people could do if they decided to make the leap and spend five days in this beautiful area in the lakes. I'd love it if you could go through day by [00:15:00] day and explain what there is to see and do.
When I was looking through the notes you kindly made of this, I was shocked at just how many beautiful and varied things you can do in this area. So I'd love it if you could start with day one. Imagine that we've arrived. We spent day zero traveling to Brissago. We've got an early night. We're feeling very well rested. Let's talk about what we could do on day one.
Isabella: So on day one, the first thing you do when you wake up is have a yoga lesson and breakfast. If you don't want to do yoga, you can skip it and go straight to breakfast. Then after that, on the first day, I would send you to a treasure hunt because Brissago is also known as the Land of the Pirates.
So we have a beautiful itinerary that will take you around Brissago to discover all the particularities of history [00:16:00] and special places. If I start to tell you, it's going to take a full day, so I prefer to let you discover it on your own because Brissago has a very rich history. After this, in the morning, then at lunch, I would suggest you go to Kalea for lunch, where we have, as we said, a special convention, and you can enjoy a very nice menu.
In the afternoon, you could visit the Leoncavallo Museum, dedicated to the famous literary composer and librettist from Napoli. Ruggero Leoncavallo wrote very famous libretti, like the one that you probably know, which is Ridi Pagliaccio, and it's pretty famous. There as well, you will be in one of the most beautiful ancient palaces of Brissago.
In the evening, you can have dinner at Caesar Restaurant, which is also another place where you have a very big choice [00:17:00] of vegan dishes. This would be your day one.
Brighde: Okay, well, I have a couple of questions. Why is Brissago known as the Land of the Pirates?
Isabella: This goes back to 1521 because Brissago is on the lake shore, and at the time, when there were only wooden boats, there were pirates on the lake who would raid the villages. There are some legends that say, for example, that Brissago had its own pirates, and that when the others would come, our pirates would tell the village to put only very old clothes and rags outside the windows.
And when the pirates from Italy would come over, they wouldn't stop in Brissago because they would think that Brissago was very poor. So they [00:18:00] wouldn't raid it. This is one of the many legends that we have. Then we have the Brissago Islands just in front of us, where some of the pirates had their treasures hidden, and there are many legends about that too.
Yes. And then...
Brighde: I see.
Isabella: Because this is the year when Brissago chose to be part of Switzerland instead of the Ducato di Milano, and this created conflicts between those who wanted to stay with the Italians and those who wanted to be with the Swiss.
Brighde: Mm.
Isabella: There were two families that were very famous at that time, and one of these two families became the pirate's family. The one that wanted to stay with the Italians was cast away during that time. So, yeah, it's a big history that we have about that.
Brighde: That's amazing. Leoncavallo...
Isabella: Mm-hmm.
Brighde: Did he spend time in Brissago? [00:19:00] Is that why there's a museum for him there? Because I think he's from Napoli originally.
Isabella: During his travels in the later part of his life, he discovered Brissago and decided to live here, and he actually died here. He had a villa, a very nice villa in Brissago, an ancient 1900s villa. He had this beautiful villa, Villa Miriam, and he spent a lot of time there, and he actually died there.
Now, I don't remember exactly the year. I think it was 1907, something like that. And after that, Napoli came, and they decided to take the body back to Napoli. So here we have a memorial for him and the museum where we have his piano, pianoforte, and many of the artifacts that were in the house, in his villa, that you [00:20:00] can visit in our palace, which is called Palazzo Branca-Baccalà.
Brighde: Well, I love day one. By the end of day one, I'm going to have a really good sense of Brissago and the history there. But maybe it would be nice to get out on the water on day two. So what might you suggest for day two?
Isabella: On day two, you can catch the boat at the lake shore in front of Kalea Restaurant and visit the Brissago Islands, which are the only botanical garden on water in Switzerland. The botanical garden on the Brissago Islands hosts around 2,000 different plants coming from all over the world. It is a very special climate.
It's one of the unique places where you have so many different species growing together in the same place. The water of the lake keeps the temperature very stable, which allows the [00:21:00] plants to grow and flourish. It is really special, especially because Brissago Island is not the same as the other islands on the lake.
This is much more wild, and you can really discover plants. Then on the island you have Villa Emden, which is the palace that hosts art galleries, and they change every two or three months. So every time people come and visit, if they come multiple times during the year, they can always discover something new.
And from the island, you can go to Ascona, which is the pearl of the lake. The village of Ascona is one of the most beautiful ancient villages of Switzerland.
Brighde: Mm-hmm.
Isabella: It has a very beautiful lake promenade with restaurants, and in the old cobblestone town, it has all the little boutiques. It is really something to explore. Very beautiful.
Brighde: So I [00:22:00] guess you have to take the boat back to Brissago, and then you can go to Ascona by...
Isabella: From the lake shore of Brissago, you catch the boat, you go to the island. Then from the island, you go to Ascona by boat, and then from Ascona, you either come back by boat or you catch a bus, which will take you to Brissago in 20 minutes.
Brighde: And I'm imagining, with all of these excursions and exploring the local area, because Switzerland has such incredible public transport, I'm sure it is very easy to do. You wouldn't need a car. Is that fair to say?
Isabella: Well, both are very easy because unless you are coming on one of the days like today, where everyone is here, then you have trouble finding parking. But otherwise, here, to move around is pretty easy. By boat, by bus, or by [00:23:00] car, I would say that you choose. You can even go by bike if you want.
It is easy to go by bicycle because in Brissago, you can rent a bike either from us at the hotel, but our bikes are normal bikes. If you go down to the village, you can rent an e-bike, and then you can even put it on the boat. So you go by boat, but with your e-bike, and then you do the back road and come back by bike.
Brighde: So easy. Love Switzerland and the public transport. It's amazing. Well, that sounds like a lovely day two, getting out on the water. What do you suggest for day three?
Isabella: For day three, after a delicious breakfast at our hotel, you can head out to Italy, which is really close. It's only 15 minutes by car, 20 minutes by bus, or by boat if you want. And you can visit the village [00:24:00] of Cannobio, which is also a very nice little village with a lot of little shops and cobblestone streets.
On Sunday morning, if you're here at that time, they do the street market on the main square on the lake shore, and it's something that is extremely famous in Switzerland. There are some people who come here only to go to Cannobio and to the Cannobio street market on Sunday morning.
We, as locals, don't go there on Sunday morning. We go only during wintertime because from now until October, it is, for us, impossible. Too many people. But it's really something to see. It's magical. And if you don't want to see it so crowded, you just go during a weekday, and then you don't have the market, and you can really enjoy the piazza on the lake and visit maybe the churches [00:25:00] and the cobblestone streets.
Brighde: And you mentioned crossing the border. If you're using public transport, is it a hassle to cross the border, or do you just drive straight through?
Isabella: No, you just drive, and then they might stop you and ask you for your ID, but it's very relaxed because, for us here, we are border people. So we live with a border in the middle, but we all know each other. They know we have hotels. They know there is a lot of tourism. So as long as you have your papers in order, but I guess you did if you caught a flight or if you go to Switzerland, it should be fine.
So no, it's really easy. What they look at is not really the passport, but what you have in your car, because you cannot buy too many things in Italy and then bring them back to Switzerland. You have to pay taxes and these kinds of things, but like normal. I mean, [00:26:00] nothing major.
Brighde: Okay. Sounds easy. Sounds easy, and that does sound like a lovely place to go and visit and hang out. Something I'm curious about is if there is a lot of hiking in the surrounding area.
Isabella: Oh yes, a lot. Because if you look at the map, we are in the Pre-Alps. So the Alps are behind the mountains that you see behind our hotel. In the Pre-Alps, you have a lot of hikes. From the hotel, you can even just start from here and walk up to the mountain, and you have, for example, Pizzo Leone, which is beautiful.
Or you have Capanna Al Legn, which is a little rifugio where you can even spend the night if you want. Then in the morning, you can go higher to Monte Gridone, which is basically divided between Switzerland and Italy. This is one of the particularities of this area: if you [00:27:00] walk up the mountain high enough, you can just cross the border without even noticing. You're just walking on a path, and you find yourself in Italy.
Brighde: And of course, the signposting and the directions are so wonderful in Switzerland. People still have to be careful with hiking, but they can be quite confident that they're not going to get lost, that the time and the distance between waypoints is going to be accurate.
Isabella: We actually, this year, redesigned the Brissago map because we, as a hotel, are part of an association with the other hotels and restaurants. All together, we have planned a new Brissago map for tourists. So if you get to the hotel, you will receive a map, which is fantastic because you have all the itineraries for the hikes. You have all the QR codes for all the timetables of buses and boats [00:28:00] and anything.
It's on the map. You have all the restaurants and hotels, and shops of all types signed in the map. And even if you need a doctor or if you need any service during your stay, you have all the information there, and you can even call a taxi, for example, if you need it.
Some people do that. They start their walk, they go up to the mountain, and when they come back and reach the main road, they just call a cab, and the cab goes and picks them up and brings them back to the hotel.
Brighde: I am not surprised that Brissago has got amazing maps. Mapping in Switzerland is just on another level. It's incredible. Let's talk about day four. You mentioned going to the Borromean Islands?
Isabella: The Borromean Islands are my absolute favorite spot in the area. It's really magical. The Borromean Islands are three islands, [00:29:00] and each one of them has something special to see. The most beautiful one is Isola Bella, and on Isola Bella, you can visit the palace and the gardens, and it's really something amazing.
You need to see it, and they have like one million visitors per year. They are really famous, and it's really something special that Lake Como doesn't have. It always makes me wonder why people are so concentrated on Lake Como, especially Americans. They know Lake Como, but if they knew Lake Maggiore...
Lake Maggiore is so much nicer, especially with these kinds of gems. So we have Isola Bella, and then we have Isola dei Pescatori, which is the Fisherman's Island, where you have a little village just on the shores of the island, and you have a lot of little restaurants and shops and souvenir shops and [00:30:00] gelateria.
It's really nice. Then you have the third island, which is called Isola Madre, the Mother Island, where you have the house of the Borromeo family. The Borromeo family is an ancient Italian family that used to own the lands between Milano and Lake Maggiore. After these three islands, they have more historical sites like La Rocca di Angera, which is also not far away from the islands.
The history of the family is also very interesting. For example, now, from the Borromeo family, Beatrice Borromeo married Pierre Casiraghi, from the family of Grace Kelly.
Brighde: Oh, mm-hmm.
Isabella: So they are very important families. They got married on the fourth island, which is a private island that they [00:31:00] still own. This is the fourth island, and it's private, and they got married right there, just in front of Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori. So really beautiful spots to visit.
Brighde: And are those islands in the Swiss part of Lake Maggiore or in the Italian part?
Isabella: They are in the Italian part, but from Brissago by car, it's only 35 minutes, and along the lake, so while you drive, you really have amazing scenery. Or you can just reach them by boat.
Brighde: Okay. So I'm guessing from what you say that there is a network of boats on the lake that takes people almost like a bus service, right? Rather than just a ferry that goes out and back. It just sort of takes people around. I see that a lot in the Italian lakes and also in Switzerland generally.
Isabella: Yes. When I was 15, I had a friend who was coming to school by boat every day because she lived [00:32:00] on the other side, and she would come by boat, and I always envied her so much.
Brighde: Amazing. Okay, and day five. We touched a little bit on hiking, and you told us about that. But you also will prepare lunchboxes for hiking too, right? Or for people who just want a picnic.
Isabella: Yes, because we have hikes, and we also have very beautiful beaches on the lake shore. So if you are with your family and you don't want to go to a restaurant, you just want to go to the beach, then we prepare lunchboxes that you can enjoy straight on the beach.
Brissago offers a lot for families as well. So you have playgrounds, you have what we call here a lido. It's a private beach, restaurant, and pools, everything together.
Brighde: Ah.
Isabella: It's fantastic for families because I have three. One is 20 years old, so when she goes there, she's with her friends. [00:33:00] One is 10 years old, and she goes already into the lake and sometimes into the pool. Then I have a four-year-old, and she goes into the kids' pool.
Brighde: Perfect.
Isabella: It's great because they're all in the same place, and I can look after everyone.
Brighde: Fabulous. And you also recommended finishing off by having a toast on your last evening at Pizzo Leone. Is that right?
Isabella: Pizzo Leone is just above us, and it's one of the most beautiful places for the view because from Pizzo Leone, you see the whole lake. It's very special.
Brighde: Wow. I tell you, Isabella, you have absolutely convinced me. This just sounds absolutely glorious.
Isabella: I didn't mention everything because we only had five days. I didn't want to make it a month. If you want, we have so many more things to do here. Yeah, a lot.
Brighde: And if I remember well, this Ticino area, or canton, has [00:34:00] the sunniest weather in Switzerland, or the best climate, according to people who like it a little bit warmer, I guess. Is that right?
Isabella: It is a microclimate, which is why the Brissago Islands have so many plants growing there, even plants that only grow in South Africa or in very warm areas. So yes, that's why here at the hotel we have a lot of last-minute reservations because the Swiss Germans look at the weather forecast, and if they see that they have snow or rain, and here we maybe already have...
Like today, for example, here it's around 18 degrees already. But in the German part of Switzerland, they are still at 10, 12 degrees. So for them to drive two hours and arrive here and have the sun and the lake and the terraces, for them it's like being in [00:35:00] complete summertime.
Brighde: Mm. I love it.
Isabella: Ticino is called the sunny terrace of Switzerland.
Brighde: Wow. Well, you have convinced me, Isabella. I'm sure it's not going to be long before we come and check out this part of the world. It looks absolutely beautiful. I want to thank you so much for taking the time, even though you're so busy today, for chatting with us. Please do tell us again the name of the hotel, how people can learn more, your social media handles, and how people can learn about any special offers or news that's happening at your hotel.
Isabella: So they can go to our website, which is gardenhotelprimavera.com. Very easy. Or on Instagram at gardenhotel_primavera. There you will find all our offers and everything that is going on. For [00:36:00] example, right now we have a special offer for people under 25. So if you are a young couple and want to spend some days, some holidays here, then you will enjoy a 15% discount.
We look forward to welcoming you and anyone who wants to visit Ticino, and we also enjoy explaining and sending people to see the most beautiful places in the area.
Brighde: Thank you so much, Isabella, and good luck with your busy weekend.
Isabella: Thank you so much, and I hope to meet you soon.