Places I Remember with Lea Lane

India Must-Sees: Delhi, Mumbai, The Taj Mahal In Agra

• Dr. Jilani Warsi shares tips and fascinating tales of power, faith, and love about his home country. • Season 1 • Episode 123

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 We visit Delhi, Agra, and Mumbai with linguist and educator Dr. Jilani Warsi.

Old Delhi draws us into the Red Fort’s vast red sandstone walls, the bustle of Jama Masjid, and the color and flavors of Chandni Chowk where chai, sweets, and silks leave their mark. 

We balance that with New Delhi’s calm and the Lotus Temple’s open welcome to all faiths, then look upward at Qutub Minar’s 12th-century tower, a vertical timeline of early rule and artistry. 

Along the way, we share on-the-ground advice: why to skip driving yourself, how to group sites to save time, and where an evening light-and-sound show still brings the past to life.

Agra reframes the journey around love and power. The Taj Mahal becomes more than a postcard as dawn light turns marble rosy and the close-in inlay work reveals delicate stone flowers. 

Across the Yamuna River, Agra Fort holds Shah Jahan’s final vantage point, a story you can feel when a small mirror catches the mausoleum’s glow. A short hop leads to Fatehpur Sikri, where Hindu and Islamic design blend into one living compound, proof that style can be a bridge across belief.

Mumbai changes the tempo again: Marine Drive’s night shimmer, the Bandra-Worli Sea Link stretching like a lit ribbon, and the gravitational pull of Bollywood’s studios and theaters. We leave the skyline by boat for Elephanta Island, where ancient cave temples to Shiva offer a cool breath and timeless stonework. 

Between stops, we chase flavor—kebabs, biryani, and samosas, and share simple ways to eat well and safely where the locals line up.

Whether you’re planning your first India itinerary, refining a return, or just enjoying armchair travel, follow the show, share it with a friend, and leave a quick review so others can find it too.

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Dr. Jilani Warsi, born a two-hour drive from Mahabodhi Temple in Gaya where Buddha reached Nirvana, grew up in a multilingual environment and teaches at Queensborough Community College in New York. He curates English language lessons for native and non-native speakers under the moniker of DrEnglish, on YouTube, @DrAmericanEnglish. He is also a shutterbug and a student of life.

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Podcast host Lea Lane has traveled to over 100 countries, and has written nine books, including the award-winning Places I Remember  (Kirkus Reviews star rating, and  'one of the top 100 Indie books of  the year'). She has contributed to dozens of guidebooks and has written thousands of travel articles. Contact her at placesirememberlealane.com
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Our award-winning travel podcast, Places I Remember with Lea Lane, has produced over 120 travel episodes! New episodes drop on the first Tuesday of the month, on Apple, Spotify, and wherever you listen to podcasts.
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Travel vlogs of featured  podcasts-- with video and graphics -- now also drop on YouTube.  Please subscribe, like, and comment. 

Lea Lane:

You may be surprised to hear that the Republic of India is the seventh largest country by area, and since 2023, the most populous country in the world. India is also one of the world's oldest cultures, spanning from ancient civilizations to the modern republic. It's marked by major empires such as the Mughal Empire, religious developments such as Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism, and a long struggle for independence from British rule led by Mahatma Gandhi. It culminated in the nation's establishment in 1947, and India is now the world's most populous democracy. When you're traveling in a country with so many historic layers and cultures, it's especially helpful to learn about some of the history before you arrive. Geographically, India ranges from the Himalayan Mountains in the north to the tropical peninsula in the south, surrounded by the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and Indian Ocean. India is known for immense cultural, ethnic, and religious diversity with over 22 official languages. Its economic growth in the last decades has been rapid, and it's recently achieved significant progress in reducing extreme poverty and expanding infrastructure and access to basic services. India is a feast of senses and history and geography, and a trip there can be daunting. You'll probably get around by extensive train and plane networks, but you know, driving is okay. It's not for the faint of heart. Locals seem to know how to weave through it all. As there's so much to cover, in this episode, we'll concentrate on just a few of India's most popular tourist sites to give you a taste of what not to miss. Our guest is Jilani Warsi. He was born in India. He's written dozens of books and research publications. He's got a PhD in linguistics. He speaks several languages. He's taught at Harvard and currently he's in New York teaching at Queensborough Community College. Welcome, Jelani Warsi, to Places I Remember.

Jilani Warsi:

Thank you. Thank you, Lea.

Lea Lane:

Well, as you know, a traveler can spend years traveling and discovering India. And let's start with Delhi, India's capital. It's a massive metropolitan area in the country's north. What are some of the sites in Delhi that a traveler shouldn't miss?

Jilani Warsi:

So, first of all, before I even begin, I want to let our listeners know that there are two Delhi. There's Old Delhi and there's New Delhi, right? Yeah. So the Old Delhi, travelers are into history, they really want to explore the uh quintessential Old Delhi with all its cultural activities, architecture. The old Delhi has one landmark that's not to be missed. It's called the Jama Masjits, also the Jama Mosque, which was built by an emperor. And the area around it, they have street foods, local delicacies. Most travelers are into food. They want to try out something new, something different. So Jama Mosque is one of the places. But the one landmark that stands out is called the Red Fort. Beautiful Red Fort, which was built by Shah Jahan, the same Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal in Agra. I will get to that in a second. Yes. So the Red Fort was built in 1648. Also was the seat of Mughal power until 1857. Akbar the Great and his son Humayu, they did business and they met with their ministers and people would come. The Mughal emperor would hear them out and then make decisions. The Red Fort has a stunning structure. Tall red sandstone walls covers an area of more than two square kilometers. It's huge. I mean, if a person walks, they can get tired. The entirety of the Red Fort is crescent-shaped and surrounded by a moat. There is a main entrance called the Lahore Gate, faces towards Lahore in Pakistan. Visitors reach Hatha Chalk, a 17th century covered bazaar where items such as silks, jewelry, gems, and silverware can be purchased.

Lea Lane:

Yes, I have to add, I did shop there, and I think in all of India I found more there to bring home than anywhere else. It's a wonderful place to shop. And it feels like part of India. The smells are amazing, the colors are so vibrant. You can't miss it. That's a must.

Jilani Warsi:

So the Red Fort also has a light and sound show in the evening after the sun goes down. It's a unique show. I don't know of many places that have a light and sound show. Basically, a reenactment of the times of the British Raj.

Lea Lane:

Very good tip because many places have closed their light shows for some reason, maybe expenses. I don't know. So that's a wonderful thing to know about. I think if people can fit that in, not to miss.

Jilani Warsi:

Stay there for a few hours. Nobad Khana, Diwaneam, the hall of public audience where the Mughal Emperor would sit, watch the light and sound show. So that's the uh the red fort, it's iconic, it's a landmark, and that's built in New Delhi. The Old Delhi is different. There is a place, Lea, you may have gone there, it's called Channi Chak.

Lea Lane:

Yes.

Jilani Warsi:

You remember, right?

Lea Lane:

Bazaar, yes.

Jilani Warsi:

The bazaar is very, very popular where tourists flock, even the locals, they would go there, try out the local delicacies, sweets, uh chai, you know, the milk tea. Here in America, when you say tea, you're thinking green tea mostly, you know, without milk and sugar. Go to Channi Chak for the chai and then the dessert. There's Kutab Minar, which is in Meharoli, which is quite a distance from New Delhi. Kutab Minar is the India's tallest minaret. There's a minaret in Meharoli. It's also now a UNESCO World Heritage Site that attracts many international visitors. And one can even climb to the top for the breathtaking views of the surrounding area. It was completed in the 12th century. It has five-story tower rises more than 70 meters and is covered with intricate carvings featuring the history of Kutub, the Mughal king, and that's why the minaret is named after him. It's called Kutub Minar. There is just so many places. It being the capital of India, parliament where the president meets with the politicians. There is this Baha'i temple. I'm not sure if you've been there earlier. The Lotus Temple is called.

Lea Lane:

Yes, the Lotus Temple. Absolutely.

Jilani Warsi:

Magnificent. It's this house of worship. What I like about them is that anybody can go. People of any faith, and they have books and contemporary religion. They can read, they can sit and meditate. It's a beautiful structure. It was built in 1986. And just so that people know, it has attracted more than 70 million visitors.

Lea Lane:

Wow. Baha'i Temple, also in Israel. It's a very interesting building as well.

Jilani Warsi:

Right, right.

Lea Lane:

Capital of the country, way, way, way back. It's fascinating. I just want to mention that close by, not so far, maybe 200 kilometers or so southeast of Delhi, is Agra on the banks of the Yamana River. There is one of the great structures of the world, the Taj Mahal, which was built in 1632 through 1648. It's a white marble mausoleum built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who you mentioned earlier, for his wife Mumtaz Mahal. Why do you feel it's considered such a masterpiece?

Jilani Warsi:

Great question, Lea. I looked up other marvels of architecture around the world. This building was built to commemorate love. And I haven't come across any buildings that were built for love. Like all these kings and their victory and immortalizing themselves. It's a beautiful story that travelers should know. Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, they were married and she was bedridden. She was sick, she was dying. And she asked Shah Jahan to do something, right? Something very special so that the coming generations would learn about their love. It took 20 years to build a Taj Mahal, so on the banks of the river Jamuna. It's iconic, rightly said, and it received, I don't know, millions, millions of visitors to the city of Agra everywhere. Breathtaking. Every bit as incredible as you would, you know.

Lea Lane:

Yes, I think it's even better. It's even better than you because when you look closely at the marble, it's embedded with precious and semi-precious stones. And each part of it, if you come up very close, it's a work of art. So simple, and it's a beauty. And as you said, it's radiates with this feeling of love. So I think you're absolutely right. Simplicity.

Jilani Warsi:

Gorgeous. Lovers go there, married couples go there, and they embrace each other and they cry. They get, you know, goosebumps.

Lea Lane:

I have one suggestion because I went in the afternoon, it was very crowded, and then I got up very early in the morning the next day, right when it opened, when the sun was hitting it, and it was all kind of pinkish golden, and there were very few people at that time. Then this was a long while ago. Maybe people have figured this out. But I would say it's worth it to find a time in the morning if you can get up real early, and it's more beautiful even then because there aren't so many people around. And the other thing, and maybe you can address this, there's a fake Taj Mahal in that area that some people go to and they don't realize it's not the real one.

Jilani Warsi:

It's not the real well, it's nowhere near as beautiful as the Taj Mahal. It's a fake Taj, but that's that's interesting that you should bring this up. And I agree. I mean, you know, at the crack of dawn, if people get there very early in the morning, you know, they avoid the crowd and they can walk the grounds. I mean, there's so many places in within that area now. Taj Mahal is the centerpiece, but there are other little buildings around it. Taj Mahal, I mean you've seen it in history books and postcards and social media.

Lea Lane:

There are two more places in that area that I visited that we should briefly mention. One is the Agra Fort, built by Emperor Akbar, and it's also on the river, and it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it was the main residence of the emperors until 1638. And like the Red Fort, it is a red sandstone and very, very beautiful.

Jilani Warsi:

Yeah, absolutely. You took my words that I was just gonna say, okay, you can't you can't do the Taj Mahal without mentioning the Agra Fort. After the fall of Shah Jahan, his own son rebelled against him and kept him under house arrest. And Shah Jahan asked him to put him in the Agra Fort because there's a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal from there. That's how much he loved his wife. The son honored his request and he put him in a room. So you could go there if you go on a guided tour or you can find it by yourself. There is a room which has a window looking out at the uh Taj Mahal from there. Shah Jahan would position his bed there, he would sleep. First thing in the morning, he would look at the Taj Mahal.

Lea Lane:

Wow. Lovely to go in that room and think of him doing that.

Jilani Warsi:

Right. But it's actually even more interesting. So when he was in bed, when he went to bed and he slept, he put a broken piece of mirror that was stuck in the wall. When he was lying in his bed, he was about to fall asleep. He would see an image of the Taj Mal in the mirror.

Lea Lane:

Wow.

Jilani Warsi:

The tour guide bring like a little piece of mirror, they put it in the wall, and then you could see centuries old red sandstone fortress that was once the imperial city for a succession of Mughal rulers. This is the most extraordinary building. Jahagi Mahal, I'm not sure if you had a chance to go there. It's also a massive palace that blends stunning Hindu-inspired features with Central Asian architectural elements.

Lea Lane:

It's a small city, Fatehpur Sikri, just west of. Again, founded by a 16th-century Mughal Empire. What's so special about that little city? Fatehpur Sikri.

Jilani Warsi:

Yeah, Fatehpur Sikri, as you said, is not too far away from the Agra Fort or the Taj Mahal. It's the structure of Fatehpur Sikri, which is famous. There is a pond inside the Fatehpur Sikri structure. Young people, younger people, even the locals, you know, the brave hearts, they jump from the top of it. They dive into the pond.

Lea Lane:

I don't recommend that.

unknown:

Okay.

Jilani Warsi:

Unless they are, you know, daredevils. Then yeah, sure. But it's a small city, as you said, in northern India, and it's that red sandstone building, just like the Agra Fort. Swata for Swikri is the Pulandarwaza in Urdu. Pulan means high.

Lea Lane:

That's the big gate, right? The entrance.

Jilani Warsi:

That's the big gate, really, really tall. It's the entrance to Jama Masjid Mosque. So most tourists, when they go there, they enter and they walk up to the Jama Masjid Mosque. Just the same Jama Masjid in uh old area. Jama means collective, and masjid means a mosque. So people go there collectively, like not individually, though one can go there, but in groups of people, they go and then they pray. Near Fatehpur Sikri is the marble tomb of Salem Chishti. It's called Diwanik Has Hall. It has a carved central pillar. Jyodah Bhai's palace is a mix of Hindu and Mughal style. Jodah, by the way, is very interesting. Akbar the Great, the Mughal emperor, he married a Hindu woman when her name was Jodabai. And he was Muslim. And so that is how secular he was. He's setting a good example for India. But look, the king can marry a Hindu. And throughout his life, he honored his wife's religion. So they built a temple inside the palace. That's another love story, right? And she loved it because there was no pressure on her to convert to Islam. She got up and she offered her morning prayers. So you will see both. It's a very nice mix of Hindu and Mughal style. So some of the architecture will remind you of Islamic architect, and then also there's Hindu architecture, too. Next to the five-story punt one that overlooks the site. In the good old times, it would take like six hours to get to Agra from Delhi. But now they have built a highway and it takes just an hour.

Lea Lane:

That's interesting. I talked about driving earlier. Trains have been the mode of transportation for for many, many years. Because the highways maybe haven't in the past been up to speed, so to speak. What do you have to say about driving in India? I know I've been on the road there and it is daunting. And I personally don't recommend driving. I recommend if you can get somebody to drive you, but is it better now? I haven't been in a little while.

Jilani Warsi:

No, the population has grown like tremendously. I think it's even worse. I mean, yes, the government has built lots of roads and bridges. Just like you, I don't recommend driving. If one is bold enough or courageous enough, one could drive from New Delhi to Agra.

Lea Lane:

Let me just add the other major city that people think about, Mumbai. It used to be called Bombay. It's densely populated on the west coast. It's a financial center. It's India's largest city. It's a little more modern in tempo. What's not to miss? What would you say?

Jilani Warsi:

Bollywood, one of the largest movie-making industries.

Lea Lane:

Because of that, there are lovely luxury hotels and restaurants.

Jilani Warsi:

This city is renamed as Mumbai because Bombay is the name that the British give, the town. People would come from all over India to see this movie stars' houses or their mansions or their palaces. And they come out. They have a balcony, the stars come out in the morning. Oh, how nice. People would gather and then they would get he would just wait.

Lea Lane:

Okay. That's very good. They had a wonderful tour where you would go to this beautiful old movie theater and you'd have dinner, and then they'd show a beautiful Bollywood film, and some of the stars would come out there too. It's a wonderful way to emphasize industry there.

Jilani Warsi:

Oh, absolutely. So Mumbai is known for the stardom, you know, show business. So people go there for various reasons. You know, movie bus would go, and there's an area in Bombay called Film City. Okay, where they have studios when they're doing indoor shootings, you know, not an outdoor location. Then they go to the film city and enjoy, you know, just seeing the uh statues and posters of their favorite movie stars. It's great. You probably know this, Lea, Marine Drive. So I recommend just hiring a cab, getting a taxi driver. But driving across the Bandra Worldly ceiling, this is one of the most iconic sites. And it really comes to life at night because it's all lit up. It's a gateway.

Lea Lane:

You're talking about the gateway arch, the big gateway architecture. There you go. It's a modern, semi-modern for India, a hub, right? On the waterfront.

Jilani Warsi:

Right. It has the most impressive views of the Bandra Worldly ceiling. The Bandra Fort. It's a historic watchtower by the Portuguese in 1640. So the way to get to the Bandra Fort is through the Marine Drive. At night, the bridge lights up spectacular colors.

Lea Lane:

Modern India. But there is one place in Mumbai that I went to that I really was impressed with, Elephanta Island, the cave temples there, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. If you take a little boat to the island, to those caves, with the carvings.

Jilani Warsi:

I agree. Unfortunately, it doesn't get much press.

Lea Lane:

It's the food you'd eat at an Indian restaurant only from a street vendor. And it's similar. We all are familiar with the delicious uh curries and tandoori chicken, but they're on a stick where it's easier to eat.

Jilani Warsi:

Right. And not to mention the biryani, which is like the stick. The rice, yes. We can thank the Mughals for bringing it to India.

Lea Lane:

Yes, I always think people in India eat Indian food every day!

Jilani Warsi:

That's true. That's true. But I think those of us, those are travelers, US travelers who go to Indian restaurant, they probably already know what Samosa is. Yeah. Samosa is this triangular fritter, and it's so amazing that one could stuff it with either mashed potatoes or even ground meat. You could find that too. It's rather cheap, you know, like maybe not even five rupees. Right. Which is like 10 cents or something. Right. Very inexpensive. But I strongly recommend enjoy trying out samosas.

Lea Lane:

Delicious food is part of India, the sensual part. It's everything is sensual there. You the colors and the smells and the sights and the tastes. You have to really enjoy all of it to get the feel. So much wonderful food and wonderful sights. And obviously, we can't do justice to it in one session. So what we're going to do for India is have a second part where we discuss sacred sites and festivals and the north country, which is the hill country, and the south, which is amazing, the waterways and wonderful cities and cultures. So we're going to have Jilani come back for that. We'll look forward to that. But meanwhile, the name of the podcast is Places I Remember. So Jilani, would you share with us a special memory of India?

Jilani Warsi:

Sure. You've already mentioned that earlier. I think Mahabhodi Temple in Buddhagaya, which is from my birthplace, Patnais, about an hour. So it's not that far away. It's the temple where the Buddha reached Nirvana, where he was enlightened. So there is a path after he became enlightened where he walked back and forth. This was called the Lotus Walk. Yes. Right? And so people go there, and there is still a banyan tree under which he sat and meditated for a long time. And I went there, I went there with my family, and I lucked out because that happened to be a huge congregation of monks from all over the world, not just Indian monks. So they were all lying prostrate, they're praying, they were chanting the sutra. It truly was very surreal. I wasn't expecting that because you usually go, you see the Bodhi temple, and it's been years, but I'll never forget they're wearing their robes, heads shaved, and all, and they're all praying together like thousands of Buddhist monks. So it was a very fortunate day for me, and I will never forget that to go and just sit under the tree. The original tree is gone because thousands of years left, but they planted something else, another banyan tree, and it's all grown up now. It's beautiful. So Buddhaka, if you happen to be in the state of Bihar, that's the only place you want to be.

Lea Lane:

We'll be talking more about, as I said, all the interesting aspects of both Hinduism and Buddhism, which began in India. So thank you so much, Dr. Jilani Warsi, professor and language expert, for your suggestions and insights and really wonderful remembrances about your native country. You've given us a taste of what makes India a destination for world travelers, one of the greatest. And we hope to have you back soon to cover more about it, the North, the South customs festivals and all that. We look forward to it. Thanks again.

Jilani Warsi:

Thanks so much.

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Lea Lane

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