Master My Garden Podcast
Master My Garden podcast with John Jones. The gardening podcast that helps you master your own garden. With new episodes weekly packed full of gardening tips, how to garden guides, interviews with gardening experts on many gardening topics and just about anything that will help you in your garden whether you are a new or a seasoned gardener. I hope you enjoy.John
Master My Garden Podcast
- EP332 Seed Sowing Guide for June: June Sowing Made Simple
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June is where gardeners quietly win the year, or accidentally drift into gaps, gluts, and empty beds. With April and May running unusually cold, I’m using this June seed sowing guide to reset the clock and show what still makes sense to sow now, especially once soil temperatures rise and growth finally kicks on.
We talk through the real-world effects of sudden heat, particularly under cover. If your polytunnel is spiking into the 30s and 40s, some seeds simply will not play ball. Lettuce is the big one: once temperatures push past about 20°C, germination can stall, so tray placement matters as much as watering. I also share why seedlings are most at risk right now and how capillary matting can keep modules evenly moist for 24 to 48 hours, helping you avoid that heartbreaking “burnt to a crisp” moment.
Then we get into the sowing list, grouped in a way that makes planning easier: repeat salad sowings like spring onion, spinach, radish and lettuce, plus the smart-harvesting approach that stretches heads for longer. We shift into autumn and winter thinking with brassicas such as Brussels sprouts, cabbages, sprouting broccoli, calabrese, cauliflower and leeks, followed by roots like parsnips, beetroot, swede and carrots. Herbs and warm-season crops get a look in too, from basil and parsley to cucumbers, courgettes, French beans, squash, sweetcorn and peas. I finish with what you can still sow for flowers, why seed compost quality can stall growth, and how perennials and biennials started now repay you next spring.
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Until next week
Happy gardening
John
Welcome And June Focus
SPEAKER_00How's it going everybody and welcome to episode 332 of Master My Garden Podcast. Now, this week's episode, as we head into the June Bank holiday weekend, is the seed sowing guide for the month of June. And it's uh yeah, it's a it's a good episode. It always serves as a kind of reminder for people as we enter the new month what can be sown. And this month is no exception. There's lots to be still sown. The list is reduced slightly to last month. Uh the month of May is always kind of the biggest month where we can sow the most things, but still June is a is a lot, there's a lot on the list. And given that, you know, the weather through a lot of April and May was so cold, this list is actually kind of important now, really important, because we can get longevity. There's still things that technically, you know, by the back of the pack, it might say it's a little bit late. But given how cold things were, if you sow now with the temperatures that we've had, a way off will go and we'll be up and running very, very quickly. Uh, before
Sponsor Seeds Ireland
SPEAKER_00we get into what we can sow, uh little mentioned this for this week's episode sponsor, it's Seeds Ireland and you know, a very apt sponsor for the seed sowing guide. So Seeds Ireland are an Irish company and they sell basically all types of seeds. So you have vegetable seeds, uh, flower seeds, herbs, microgreens, and you know, lots and uh lots of other pieces of equipment and gardening sundries as well. So lots of products. They have they're I've used them myself personally, as I said before. Very good quality seed, always good germination rates. Um five-star reviews on Google and Trust Pilot, so that's a big thing now, especially for people who are buying online. You have that trust piece. Uh really high germinations, as I mentioned, good range to choose from, very fast delivery, you know, within a couple of days. And you know, they have quite a big range, and I'd say it's a range that's growing all the time. Generally speaking, the seeds are uh organic, open pollinated, so there's you know very, very good quality. Um so far, anytime I've used them, which is probably every year for the last five years, I've bought different types of seeds off them, and they have been exceptional. Um, so no hesitation in recommended seeds are in the brilliant, brilliant company. Uh so now into the seed sewing guide, and as I said, the because of weather patterns, the list of seeds, you know, month to month
Cold Spring Changes The Plan
SPEAKER_00can be very, very similar. So if we do the June sewing guide in 2026, it'll be very, very similar to 2025. But given little changes, they can tweak slightly, or how we sow things, when we sow things within the month can change. Um and what I mean by that is if you take, as I say, the last April and May, they've been very, very cold. And sometimes when you sow in the likes of flower seeds, particularly in that kind of colder, colder temperatures, uh, nighttime temperatures quite cold, they can sit there and not do much. So you may well have your sowing done, you know, by the recommended recommendation on the back of the packet, but the the seeds may not have done a lot in in you know over the last couple of weeks. But if you can get them in early this month, given the temperatures that we have at the moment, uh very, very warm, uh, no sign of any kind of colder temperatures, nothing below 10, 12 degrees, even at night time, and then your seeds would just hit the ground and go. And you know, so you can very easily catch, catch up, and pass out anything that was sowed a little bit earlier. So there's still time for lots to be sowed. And as I say, the fact that it was cold, some things that we would technically speak and say is a little bit late for we could still go and and sew and be very successful with them. So it's quite a big list, and we're going to get into it. Uh, it generally reduces, so May is the biggest month in terms of the list that we can sew, and June reduces slightly, but not a huge amount. And then as we go through into July and so on, that risk that list does shrink as we go through. Uh, we're also now very much, while we're in the moment and sewing for the moment and sewing for the the short term, we're also now starting to cast an eye to the back end of the year, to the autumn and to the winter, and even to the early spring, and we're starting to think about the sowing of crops for that autumn, winter, and early spring so uh harvest. So we're always looking ahead. The other thing that can happen at this stage is that we're looking at our beds in the in the garden. Uh these beds are quite you know full, and we're possibly thinking, where am I actually going to put this stuff? There's nowhere to put it. But if you can picture four weeks, five weeks, six weeks ahead where you would be planting out maybe plug plants, then that you know, that's where you need to be looking. So in four weeks' time, will that bed be cleared of the you know, the salads that are there or the cabbage and the cauliflower that's there? How far away are my potatoes from being harvested? You know, that type of thing. So you're looking ahead four weeks, six weeks, eight weeks, and
Think Ahead For Empty Beds
SPEAKER_00then you sow accordingly to make sure that you're filling that space according as a crop comes out, another one goes in, and that's how you get sort of longevity and harvest through the very, very, the various months of the year. Um, what we don't want to do is, you know, get our get our seeds, get our plug plants, buy our you know, bits and pieces, fill our beds, then get a big uh blast of a harvest at a certain point in time, and then have nothing coming after that. We want to utilize this space. You've gone to the effort of creating the space, we really want to utilize it, and we really want to, I suppose, you know, get the max from it. So we're casting an eye ahead. So I hope that kind of sets the tone.
Heat Shocks And Germination Limits
SPEAKER_00Uh a couple of other points. Like this week, the temperatures have been extraordinary and gone from where we had last week some kind of daytime temperatures, like literally a week ago or a little more than a week ago, uh, I was contemplating lighting the stove in the office because it was it was very cold. Um and now you know, early this week we hit these 20 degrees, 24 degrees, 26 degrees, and 30 degrees in certain places. Uh, I saw the maximum in the in the polytunnel. It was you know a max of 46 degrees at one point in the polytunnel. Like that's crazy warm. Um, so in terms of doing any kind of work or anything like that, it's it's very difficult, you know, it's tricky because we've gone, you know, we didn't get time to acclimatize, we didn't get to go from 10 to 15 to 20 to 25, we just went from 10 to 30. And that big jump has made it hard for us to acclimatize, but it also has made it hard for plants to acclimatize. So just bear that in mind. The other thing is that certain things, like for example, um lettuce seed, as you know, won't germinate at a temperature above kind of 20 degrees. So if you've sowed your lettuce seeds and as I said, the polyton, so if you've sowed them in your polyton and the temperature is hitting 36, 38 degrees in the polyton, then that germination, that's so that seed goes into a basically a state of dormancy and they just will not germinate at that those temperatures. So for something like that, you take those that tray, you put it somewhere where it's you know protected and relatively warm, but not in that intense heat, because above 20 bled seed won't germinate. So you just have to watch that.
Watering Seedlings And Capillary Matting
SPEAKER_00The other thing to really watch out for, and it's absolutely critical at this stage, uh, is watering. So obviously people are watering and watering heavily, but where this is really critical is is on seedlings. So you sow your seed, your your seedlings germinate quite quickly as they will in with this heat. And that little seedling is so vulnerable to the temperatures that we have, the compost can dry in a matter of hours. So you need to make sure that you keep an eye on them because you can do this sowing, have lovely germinated little seedlings, and then they're burnt to a crisp in a couple of hours, and you really need to watch that. Uh, a brilliant, a brilliant sort of accompany a way of ensuring that is to have capillary matting. So you probably have heard me talking about it before. Capillary matting is essentially a fabric that sits on a bed. You would create your your propagation bench, and you have something that creates a little ridge. Like, for example, in my one I have uh a flat piece of of uh eight by four sheet. Around the edge of it, I have screwed in right on the very edge of it, uh two by a two by one lat, so two inches tall of a lat of timber. Then I insert into that a plastic sheet so that it stops the water from escape, and I run that little sheet up the two, the two by one on the side, and then that creates a little reservoir on the on the bed. Then you put your capillary matting on top of that, and the capillary matting, what that does, it basically distributes the water evenly across the bed. So even if it wasn't, now you need it relatively uh level, but if it wasn't 100% level, the capillary matting would still distribute the the water across the bed so that you know all the plants have access to the water. Then it holds that water underneath, so where you have your trays, your pots, the water goes up through the base of the pots or through the base of the trays uh through a capillary action and then up to where the seedlings need it. And that's a brilliant way of ensuring you know that they don't dry out. And you can actually you can like load in the water when you have this type of weather. You can really load in the water. When when weather is cold and you know there is no much transpiration or evaporation from the trays or from the plants themselves, then having you know wet trays is a real problem because the plants just sit there and they can pick up diseases and they just get stagnated in that cold compost. But when it's as warm as it is at the minute, you can water heavily without any risk of you know uh disease or anything like that because the the evaporation and the transpiration from your seedlings is huge at this stage. So don't be afraid to fill that. Uh let the trays get quite heavy with water, and then you're guaranteed that there is enough there for your little seedlings and your little plants as they grow. And it'll just keep them you know safe over a 24-hour or 48-hour period if you're if you're not in to keep watering them all the time. And it's a brilliant, brilliant thing to have, especially when we get the weather that we had
Salad Crops To Keep Repeating
SPEAKER_00this week. So, anyway, all of that, let's get into the actual seeds that we can sow. And as I say, it's quite a big month, and we'll I'll group them again as I always do. So, firstly, we'll group into the kind of salads, and these are the ones that will repeat sowing pretty much all the time. So, spring onion, always on the list, will always be on the list because it's for me here, it's used all the time. Um now you don't have to sow it every week. So, you know, because it's you know it's quite good in that it won't run to seed massively fast, you can do kind of one sowing a month, and sow enough that you're gonna have a month of a harvest, and then you'll have your next batch on the way, and you're always, you know, always able to have some. But because it doesn't run to seed massively quick, Randy, you can kind of do enough that's gonna last you for a month. So that's what I do one sowing a month on something like that. Spinach now, on the other hand, is totally the opposite. So spinach at this stage of the year, especially in the tunnel, which is where I grow it, that'll run to seed so quickly. So I'll do regular sowing, maybe every two weeks of that. And that will, you know, and you want to be harvesting it because once that spinach, you'll you'll go from a baby, a baby spinach leaf to quite a big one in a matter of days, and then it'll go to seed again within a matter of days. So from time of first harvest of a baby leaf to actually gone to seed, you know, maximum two weeks at this stage of the year, just the temperatures are just driving that growth really, really fast. So spinach is a repeat sew every couple of weeks, every two weeks thereabouts. Radish is another one, same thing. Uh very, very fast growing, very fast from sewing to maturity. And at this stage of the year, it's at its fastest point from sewing to maturity. So again, you're repeat sewing a little bit like the spinach. As mentioned before, radish is a is something that I love for certain times, but I don't want it all the time. So I kind of dip in and out, I'll sew for a little while, uh, do a couple of sewings, eat it for a little while, then I don't mind not having it for a few weeks, and then I go again and I kind of I don't like it all the time. I get fed up with it for some reason. Love the taste of it, but just not constant. Whereas spinach I will have all the time. Uh turnip is another one. I kind of do one sewing. It's very, very quick, you know, it likes the Milan purpant tops, it's very quick to maturity as well. Not as quick as radish, but still quite quick. Um and then it does kind of go and bolt quite quickly after that. I don't love them either, so again, just one sewing or maybe two sewings a year is all I'll ever do of a turnip. Um, next one on the list is lettuce. Sew that quite regularly. At the moment, I'm using kind of smart harvesting, so I have little gem, I have um butterhead, the one that I love, and Alalina. I have a wonder of all seasons, and I have a crispy or a curly, a curly leafed uh green lettuce. And I have you know maybe five, six heads of each of them. So rather than harvesting the head, I'm going around the outside and taking leaves all the time. The plant continues to try and form a head, but you keep taking the outer leaves. So when I go out to harvest for a salad, I'll take three or four leaves off the outside of a butter head, the same off a little gem, the same off a crispy one, the same off a wonder of all seasons. And now what you have is you have a mixture of four or five different types of salad leaves that can be all chopped up in a chopped salad or whatever. And the plant itself, I'm not harvesting the heads. So the plant itself is still going to produce, still going to give uh harvest over the next while. And it's a way of extending out the sewing. So now I don't need to sew every single month. Um, I'll probably sew every six weeks of lettuce. Now, temperatures that we've had, you will definitely end up at a point where you know you're doing the smart harvesting, but the head is still looking to drive up and you can get bolting quite quickly, but you don't need to sew it as regularly, maybe as something like a spinach. So that's a really good technique to extend out and uh I suppose lessen the workload of sewing. Uh now I mentioned as well that we have an eye to the autumn, we have an eye to the winter, and this is where towards the end of this month we can start sowing, you know, our autumn, our our autumn type salads. And again, you're looking at things like mustards and um rockets and rocket and so on. And you know, they're they're the ones that are going to take us for a harvest later in the year. Now, depending on the temperatures, you might actually push that into early July, but you you are now thinking about the autumn. Yeah, and that you know, that that will be for some people who, as I say, where all their beds are full of vegetables at the minute, that will be difficult to to kind of think ahead. But if you can think ahead now and throw an eye to the future, you will ensure that you've harvest over a longer period of time. So that's kind of your
Brassicas For Autumn And Winter
SPEAKER_00salads. And then we move on to you know our brassicas, and from now on, we're really getting plants set up for our autumn and winter. We are thinking longer term here. These are slower to mature, need a good bit of space, some of them, um, but these are going to be harvests from you know, sort of air pre-autumn, right into winter time. So we're looking at Brussels sprouts, probably the last chance uh to get those in. You want to be getting those in now. They're a long, a long developing crop. Um, but you probably need to do, you know, you'll you'll need to get them in now in order to have any chance of having them, for example, for Christmas. Um, but you're talking long term, so you need somewhere to put them uh in the next couple of weeks. Kale is another one, very good one. Um personally, I I don't love kale for a start, but I also won't be sewing a lot of kale going forward because I have now got uh some perennial kale. I've got the Taunton Dean and uh Dubontin, or I think it's called Dubontin. And they're gone into the ground, not harvesting them yet, but that's potentially what I'll be doing for kale over the over the next couple of years. So experimenting with some of the perennial, the perennial veg. Uh on the cabbage front, we're looking ahead again, we're looking at autumn, autumn type cabbages. You'll still you can still sow the likes of about a pint of York cabbage, that'll be kind of for August harvest time. Um, but looking ahead past that, you're looking at things like red cabbage, you're looking at savai, and they're your autumn stroke winter uh harvests. Again, the next one is the same thing purple sprout and broccoli or green sprouting broccoli, they're going to be a beautiful harvest in you know the winter months, so potentially December, uh, January, February, that's your kind of time frame of harvest. So it's a long game that you're playing with these, and you are looking into the future, but this is what will give you that extension of harvest. Um, another one on the list is calibrees, which is you know your your good big green calibre's. They what you're sowing now is the autumn varieties, and these are going to be for September type harvests, September and even into early October. Um, but again, we're looking down the road here. Cauliflower is the same thing. We're switching now from our really early maturing varieties to our later maturing varieties, and that's going to give you that harvest into the back end of the year. But the next one is the same thing. We're looking at leaks, and again, we're looking at our autumn and winter leaks. So, again, a crop for down the line. Uh,
Roots And Herbs For Later Harvests
SPEAKER_00root vegetables, then parsnips. I only do one sewing a year, parsnips, and I'll be doing that in the next in the next week. You do need to sow these in the early part of the month. Anything past, you know, sort of the third week of June is very, very late. Um, but at the moment it's perfect. Ground temperatures have come up enough. Up until now, it wouldn't have been an ideal time to sow parsnips. Uh, it was too, there was too too much fluctuation in temperatures. It's steady now. Make sure you're using fresh seed. Uh, so parsnip has to be a fresh seed, has to be seed bought within that, within that year. But and again, for me, one sowing, and I actually only harvested the very last of last year's sowing about three weeks ago. So when I was getting the bed ready to flip it out into new crops, I took out the last of them. They were starting to uh uh bolt, but the parsnips themselves were fine, and yeah, that's the last of them used now. And yeah, you just get a long time out of them, you leave them sit in the ground, not much work, do one sewing. Again, it's a long game. You're you're tying up ground for a little bit of time with with the lice of parsnips, but they give you that autumn, you know, that lovely autumn, uh, autumn and winter, and early spring harvest of the following year. Uh, swede is another one, so again, a winter crop, hearty vegetable that you'll have at that time of the year, and that's that's uh one that you'll that you can get in and get sowed now. Uh beetroot, another one. So this is a sowing outside, and that's going to give you a harvest in the back end of the year. I'll do another sewing in the polytunnel later in the time, and that will be, you know, that'll be for sort of autumn time as well. So you can get, you know, by doing a couple of different sewings in a different way, you can get different harvest periods. Carrots, again, that's the last of the root vegetables, and we are again switched to an autumn or a uh something like an autumn king at this stage of the year. Uh, they're the main ones for for the back end of the year, so harvest through September, October, and again, around the same time, and maybe a little bit earlier, I took out the last of my carrots out of the ground. So, a couple of sewings, first sewing of carrots I do in the tunnel. I'm just about to start harvesting those, and then I'll get a little period of time out of them, and then the autumn ones will be, you know, they'll be kind of taking me through the winter of a harvest. Uh, herbs, then pretty much all the herbs can be sown. Now we especially can be sown and and should be sown. The likes of basil, which will pair with our tomatoes when they're ripe in a few weeks' time. Uh, coriander can be sowed, that's going to be a regular sewing if you use a lot of it. Uh, I don't here, so I only sow it in all time. Uh, Cherbil, dill, parsley, all of those. Parsley I have to sow again. Um, so I've had parsley both flat and curly in the tunnel. And they're now into their second season and they're biennial, so they're starting to run to seed. So now I resow, get new plants, and uh, you know, this the cycle starts again. So I only do sowing every so often on those. Uh, then onto kind of a couple of kind of leafy vegetables, packed chai, something I'm almost never successful with. I've grown it a few times, just doesn't seem to do well, just haven't had any luck with it. Will try it again, but uh yeah, it's not one I've had huge success with. Charred, uh definite, definite plant every year, but I don't sow a lot of it. So at the moment I have about eight plants on the going the tunnel. I'm harvesting off a couple of the the couple of new ones at the minute, and I have then some smaller ones on the on you know coming behind it. And they'll they'll take me right through to next spring. So I'll have a constant harvest off them right through to next spring. So kind of one or two sewings a year is all I do with those. But if you haven't got yard, it's a brilliant vegetable, brilliant vegetable to have in your garden, and it's one that you can still sow this month. Uh celery you can still sow. I've mentioned before, celery is a tricky one to grow. Uh so if you know, if you're if you don't use a lot of celery, then maybe the simplest thing is to get a tray of plants. But if you do sow it, it's a good month to sow it in. Um, but it needs to be again in the earlier part of the month and get it out and get it sown and get it into the ground as soon as possible. It needs light to germinate so you don't cover it when you sow the seed. Uh, and it needs good solid temperatures, which you should be able to get now, which you wouldn't have had over the last month, can be quite tricky unless you have you know a heated propagator or something that will keep the temperature consistent.
Warm Weather Crops To Sow Now
SPEAKER_00A couple of the warmer crops then, cucumber still be sown, very, very quick to grow at this stage of the year. You know, sow seed now, and you can plant it out in a couple of weeks' time in the tunnel. Um, corgettes is another one again, very, very fast. You won't need a lot of those, so don't go sowing 10 of them, or you'll have a glut that you won't be able to deal with. Um, one or two, typically for a family, one or two corgiette plants is loads. Um, sweet thorn is another one. I only do one sowing a year. I plant it into the polytunnel, and that's where I allow it to you know mature. Uh works really well every year. You know, it's something that kind of comes as a treat. You you get that harvest, you have it for maybe three or four weeks, and then it's gone, and that's it. Um I know you can store them a little bit, but generally speaking, I use it and I treat it as a kind of a nice little block of a seasonal veg that you have for a period of time and then you move on. Uh, French beans is another one. They love the warm temperatures that we have at the moment, uh, so they can still be sown, bush varieties or climbing varieties. Uh, pumpkin and squash, again, they'll be really, really fast to grow at this stage of the year once the temperatures are up. They would not have liked the cold temperatures of last week or the week before, just wouldn't like it at all. So pumpkin and squash will hit the ground now and away they'll go. Um, peas can still be sowed as well, and that kind of more or less wraps up the kind of veg or the edible garden. And as I say, still quite a lot on it. And just given that last month was so cold, it is slightly, you know, tweaked um to what it could be in a different year. So, you know, depends on how the year has progressed. And the back of the packet, you know, it'll give you a recommendation, but you still need to understand yourself um, you know, February through to May. Well, okay, if April and May were really, really cold, then it might make sense to stick in some in early June once the temperatures are good. So you just you can move and tweak. It doesn't have to be rigidly, we have to sew in this window. It can, it can tweak and move slightly. So that's a good list. There's still loads on it. I know some of you probably have your beds full now at the minute, and you're thinking, I can't sew anymore. But remember that those crops will be coming out in maybe, you know, some of them will be coming out in four weeks' time, three weeks' time, six weeks' time, and just to ensure that you have something sewn that's going to fill those spots. So the day you take out your potatoes, you have your leeks ready to go in there or something like that. Uh, utilize the space, get more than one crop out of a bed, get several crops if you can, and then you're utilizing you know the space that you have.
Flowers Plus Compost That Performs
SPEAKER_00Switching over to flowers now, again, same thing. Somebody's technically speaking, you wouldn't, you know, by the back of the packet, they'll be saying, Don't sow after May. But given again the weather that we've had, we can still sow. Um, just a note on that. So I sowed Cosmos last month. Um, germinated brilliantly. But the the growing media for seeds, um, there's just some awful rubbish out there in the market. I'm not going to name the brand, but it was really annoying. They've so they've germinated quite well. Funny enough, as I was filling the trays, I didn't like the feel of the compost. It just didn't like it. Um it didn't look a nice colour, didn't feel like a nice compost, and germinated quite well, very well actually. Uh so good seeds. But uh what has happened since is that they've just stagnated. Now they're tiny at the minute, they're not growing at all, and I do need to get them into a different, into a different growing media to really drive them on. So that that's something that I've like it really frustrates me when something is called, you know, a seed sowing, a seed sowing growing media, and it's you know, it's just not fit for purpose. But anything any kind of media will germinate a seed, but that growing piece, you know, for the for the week or ten days afterwards, I just find that sometimes you get those, you know, those composts and they just stagnate. And that has what happened with Cosmos. So anyway, that's neither here nor there. But it is important if you find one that works and that you're happy with, you know, try and stick to that and you know hopefully it's consistent. Uh the the reason I had the one I did I always use, um I was somewhere where they didn't have that one, and I just grabbed another bag. And yeah, I I know the next time I'll stick with the one I usually use. So on the flour front, because of the you know the weather, we can still you know get some good success from annuals at this stage, uh like Canangela, cornflower, Nagelia, Cosmos, as I mentioned, like my ones have just stagnated in the tray. If I saw them again in the proper compost, they would just burst out of it and be ready to go up into the ground in a couple of weeks' time and flower relatively quickly. Okay, you might lose a little bit of the window, but generally speaking, there's still time. Sunflower is another one because of the speed, they'll just fly along. Uh, stock can still be grown, honesty can still be grown, um, you know, flipping across the perennials, pretty much a lot of the perennials can be grown now. Chances are you wouldn't get a flower off them this year, but at least they will germinate, at least they will form a good solid plant that can go into the ground and then they can be planted in and you get the real benefit as early as as they flower next year. So, for example, a J is you could sow now, um, they're unlikely to flower in this year, but come next spring, they'll be flowering at this stage, and they'll have, you know, they'll have formed into a good strong plant at that stage. So you can still be sowing, you know. It doesn't mean, as I said, the packet might say not suitable for whatever month, but you can still sow once you can create that plant, especially on things like perennials, um, they're still benefiting doing it. So perennials that can be sowed, as I say, a lot of them can, but just to name a few, you have the like lupins, you have um echinaceas, agelias, achilles, bellus, um, some of the biennials, the likes of a fox glove, sweetwillium, they can be sowed. And, you know, even to something like uh wallflowers, for example, highly, highly underrated flower, they can be sown. Uh, you won't get any grip benefit out of them this year, but you'll definitely get the benefit next year as well.
Perennials That Pay Off Next Year
SPEAKER_00So, you know, there's lots that can be sown um over the whole month when you take into account the the vegetables, the herbs, and the flowers. So keep sowing, uh, keep filling up those spaces or keep an eye down the road where you can have something common to fill these spaces.
Bloom Talks Invite And Wrap
SPEAKER_00Uh, a reminder again: this Saturday, the 30th of June, I am speaking at Bloom in the Eatwell Garden. So it's the polytunnel series of talks. And I have two talks, 10:30 to 11 on composting and 1230 to 1 on no-dead gardening. And I would love, if any of you guys are at Bloom on Saturday, to come up and say hello, support the talk. Um, be lovely to meet some of you. I've mentioned loads of times before that you know uh on the podcast we never get to interact other than email or or or message on on social media or whatever. So be lovely to meet some of you there. If you are there, uh pop over to that area 10:30 to 11, first talk, 12:30 to 1 for the second talk. Um, there's so many good speakers at Bloom this year. Just looking across the main stages. Um, I saw El Matt, who was on the podcast a couple of weeks ago from the potting uh or the poppy garden. She's speaking, um, Niall Gardens is speaking, Darren McGavin is speaking, there's Adam Frost is there. There's so many, so many great speakers. And I don't have the full schedule in front of me, but it's you know, over the over the course of the what is it, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, yeah, four uh four days, five days, over the five days, it's you know, there's some amazing speakers and you know, loads, loads of uh variety of talks as well. So check those out. But for my talks, um 1030 to 11 and 1230 to 1, the poly talk talk, polytunnel talk schedule is where it falls under, and it's in the eat well garden. Uh so as I say, hoping to meet some of you there. Before we sign off on this month's June sewing guide, a big thanks to our sponsor, Seeds Ireland. Uh the link for Sweets Ireland is in the show notes. And uh, yeah, that's been this week's episode. Thanks for listening, and until the next time, happy garden.