evokecast
Official podcast of the Evoke Endurance collective. Evoke Endurance is an institution that disseminates information on training for mountain sports. Here we share our collection of interviews, discussions, and educational materials for the benefit of the global mountain community.
evokecast
#131 Climbing Mt. Everest & Lhotse, Step-By-Step
Use Left/Right to seek, Home/End to jump to start or end. Hold shift to jump forward or backward.
Join coach Leif Whittaker and his guest, Garrett Madison, as they take you through the step-by-step process of climbing Mt. Everest, and Lhotse. As the founder of Madison Mountaineering, Garrett has guided hundreds of clients on the world's biggest peaks, and is one of the most experienced high-altitude guides on the planet.
To submit your own training questions, or if you would like to learn more about the Evoke Endurance community, visit our Reddit forum: https://www.reddit.com/r/evokeendurance/, or contact us here.
Learn More about Garrett and Madison Mountaineering:
https://www.instagram.com/madisonmtng/
https://madisonmountaineering.com/
Episode Guide
00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:55 Garrett’s nineteenth expedition to Everest
00:06:46 Selecting a guide service/climber’s personal resume
00:20:38 Training and preparation
00:28:51 Arrival to Katmandu and acclimatization trek to basecamp
00:35:15 Altitude simulators for preacclimatization/staying healthy
00:49:52 Basecamp and technical review
00:54:32 First Rotation: Through the Khumbu ice fall to Camp III
01:05:44 Summit rotation
01:15:22 Final summit push
01:23:15 Summit attempt, and descent
01:31:47 Camp IV to Lhotse summit push and back to Camp II
01:41:41 Back to Basecamp
01:42:14 Final thoughts