Cycle Shorts: 1 Day of Your Trip: James Thomas - Himalayas

What would it be like to cycle through the Himalayas? In our Cycle Shorts mid week episodes we share the stories of our listeners recounting what it was like during one day of their trip. This week's episode features guest James Thomas, as he shares the experience from one day of his bike tour cycling from Manali to Leh.

You can follow James adventures via his website - https://www.reallybigbikeride.com/

Transcript

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SPEAKER_01 0:25

Hello everyone, it's Bella Malloy here, host of Seek Travel Ride, introducing you to another midweek episode of Cycle Shorts. These little bite-sized episodes where you get to hear other listeners sharing what it was like for one day of their trip. Today's episode comes from James Thomas, and he's going to recall what it was like during one day from a trip that he took through the high mountains in the Himalayas. I can only imagine what it's like to cycle through those dreamy landscapes. So without any further ado, let's listen to James tell us about one day of his trip.

SPEAKER_00 1:01

Hi Bella. Good morning. It's James here from ReallyBigBicride.com. So the day I want to talk about is part of a journey I made into the Indian Himalayas in September 2021, into the high desert plateau of Ladakh. And it's the tail end of the pandemic, and I travelled down a night train, cycled in the rain for a couple of days, and got pretty sick and didn't really think I could do this trip. I just thought, you know, this is this is too much. But happily I met a chap in the evening of a Sunday evening called Avinash. And he was an intensivist doctor in here in India, and he'd been busy saving lives during the second wave. And he said, you know what, we're gonna cycle together, you can do this, you're gonna be fine, let's just do it. And that kind of inspired me and gave me confidence that it would be okay. And that evening was the night before we set off from sort of halfway up a mountain pass into the very high altitude of the mountains of the Indian Himalayas. So we were halfway up a climb at 4,500 metres called the Rotang Pass, and that would be the first of five high altitude passes before we arrived in Leh 400 kilometers later on. So big, big mountains, hard cycling, thin air, high altitude, you know, serious stuff. But this meeting with Avinashi it kind of restored my faith in what was possible, and I said, you know what, let's do it. So we woke up the next morning, feeling refreshed, you know. We'd stayed in a roadside dabba, and in India, this a dabba is just like a roadside cafe, I guess. It's not a hotel by any stretch, but you can get a simple meal and a bed for the night and be on your way. So this is where we found ourselves on this Monday morning. High in the sky was this convocation of eagles circling, squawking, kind of speaking omens into the possibilities of the journey. And it was a beautiful thing just being so high in the solitude. Seemed like a good omen for us. And anyway, Avi Nash was super excited, super ready, and we we we set off together. And within 50 odd pedal strokes, he was so far ahead of me, I knew I wouldn't see him again for the rest of the day. He was like a couple of turns ahead and on the side of this mountain. He was just becoming a smaller and smaller dot. And that was it. I was on my own for the rest of the day. And but slowly, you know, the altitude crept up, 3,500, 4,000 metres. I gradually, slowly made my way to the top. And the bike was pretty light, but still luggage enough, you know, sleeping bag and tools and stuff. A bike packing setup, really, more than anything. I just kept going and passed, you know, there's mules carrying food supplies. So there was an odd car here and there with a tourist in to visit the top of this mountain. And fortunately, it was a very peaceful stretch of road. You know, they built a new tunnel called the Atel tunnel, which takes all the heavy goods traffic away on a big highway and leaves this road available to bicycle travellers and hikers. So it's it's a nice way to do it. But gradually I got further and further up the mountain, and the the the valley just gave way to this stunning, epic, massive view back down into Himachal Pradesh and Manali, where I'd started out a few days earlier. And as tough as it was, becoming a climated to the altitude again and pushing along a heavy bicycle, it just was it was kind of a memory test, you know, for all the muscles, bringing it all back. Because I'd done this stuff before, but it had been a while. But I gradually got going, and as I got to the top of this climb, I could see all the activity further up, and there's donkey rides and people taking selfies and Indian commerce circus happening at the top of this really remote place, you know. It's wild, like totally bonkers, but India's like that, and it's it's better for it, you know, it's awesome. And I sat and ate this bowl of Maggie noodles, you know, the instant noodles in this yellow packet. And this guy just prepared them in such a beautiful way, like with finely chopped onion and tomato and some spices, and then put an egg on top. And it was obviously such a simple meal, but it was just so good. Like I just remember this bowl of noodles absolutely saving my bacon. And I think I ate two or three bowls of the stuff, a couple of cups of sweet chai, and while I'm sat just reflecting on this epic climb that's taken me all day to achieve groups of people come and want to take my photograph because I'm the only white guy on the top of the mountain, you know, the the interesting foreigner, and what are you doing on a cycle? And all this crazy stuff starts kicking off, and it's great, it's like such a great reward for the solitude and determination to climb this huge mountain. Yeah, I take a few photographs, they have a few conversations, and then a guy just walks over and he said, You you're James, right? I'm like, Yeah, yeah, I'm James. And he's got he's got a note and he said, This is from Abby Nash, this is where you're going. And he gives me this piece of paper, and it's got a mobile phone number and the name of a hotel. And I'm so relieved at this point. I'm like, wow, that's pretty awesome. And so I know I'm gonna see my friend again later this day. And I have another cup of tea and pack up some water on the bike and set off for one of the most thrilling, wild, fast, dangerous uh descent on a cycle I've ever done. I think. I think I videoed some of it, and the footage is just nuts. It's totally unusable, but because it's uh just me holding a mobile phone, but it's wild, and descending like a thousand meters in a few minutes was just a trip, total trip. And then a couple hours later, I found my way to this hotel, and Avinash is there all showered and ready for supper, and super excited that I'm back in his day, and we we hug and it's just a beautiful moment, and one of my fondest memories of this trip, and so much appreciation for Avi Nash for making it all possible and trusting that I would turn up and share in his hotel like that. And we became firm friends, and uh, I just have so much appreciation for that guy and absolute beautiful memories of that 15 days in the Himalayas. So yeah, that's what I wanted to share today about this epic journey. That was one day of this 14-day trip that I made from Monali to Lay in Ladakh in the Himalayan mountains of India. And if anyone listening is interested in that kind of stuff, I'm gonna take that journey again in autumn, August, September time. I'm gonna take a group of eight on a guided cycle ride into the mountains on the same itinerary um Monali to Lay Highway. And if that's of any interest to anyone listening, do send me a message. I'm at really bigbycride.com or on the socials, Real Big Bicride on Instagram and Facebook. I'd love to join you guys and take you on a wild adventure in the Indian Mountains. Till then, that's me here in the tropics. Second cup of coffee, sweating profusely, ready for some of that fresh mountain energy. So thanks again, Bella, and I look forward to speaking soon to do uh a full edition of the podcast and uh best of luck with everything this summer. Cheers. Bye for now.

SPEAKER_01 7:55

Thank you so much, James, for sharing your experience there, exactly what it was like for one day on your trip. I'm really thankful that you met Abby Nash, because it really sounds like that chance meeting really made this experience come to life for you. And it sounds like you continued on to have such a mega trip. Obviously one that's changed you a bit, given that you're going back there soon as well. Like I said at the start, I can only imagine those dreamy landscapes of the Himalayas. They're a scene that I definitely want to experience for myself one day. Although I must admit, I've always thought about hiking there, not necessarily riding there. Perhaps I need to change my thinking on that. What about you listeners? Have any of you ridden in the Himalayas as well? Get in touch and let me know. You can seek me out on social media at either Instagram or on Facebook with the handle Seek Travel Ride. I always love hearing stories from my listeners. I just wanted to take a little time quickly to say a big thank you to all of my supporters from Buy Me a Coffee. I'm super appreciative of the support that you share, but also some of the messages that you leave me when you buy me a virtual coffee to support the show, they're really, really heartwarming, and I wanted to read one of them out now. This one is from I'm going to say Kramers, C-R-E-I-M-E-R-S. Sorry if I have butchered that. But they've written, Bella, bless you, I just found your podcast at the best time. I retired early from teaching because my husband and I wanted to bike across the US while we can still haul our butts over the Rocky Mountains. And hearing your guests gives me the courage that I can actually do it. You ask such good questions and I love the lack of emphasis on lycra and great gear. Thank you for emphasizing that all trips are worthwhile. You don't have to be doing an epic trip to have an incredible adventure. Thanks for all the work you must do to produce a terrific show, Love from Buffalo, New York, USA. P.S. I was always picked last in gym class, so I'm proud to still be biking at 60 and hoping for lots more years. I absolutely loved reading that from you, Kramers, and thank you so much for supporting the show. I definitely want you to stay in touch with me and let me know how that monumental trip across the US goes for you and your husband as well. And I'm super excited that at the lovely age of 60, you are still embarking on these adventures. May the Wanderlust stay strong for you and may you continue to draw inspiration from each of the episodes with my guests sharing their stories and experiences of their own bike travel as well. Once again, thanks to all the supporters there on Buy Me a Coffee. I read each of your messages and it really energizes me to keep producing this show each and every week for you all as well. Now, if you want to find out how you can get involved with Seek Travel Ride, the best way to do so is by signing up to the Seek Travel Ride newsletter. You will find a link to sign up to the newsletter in the podcast show notes, and once you've signed up, you get to look forward to monthly news of Seek Travel Ride hitting your inbox. Our newsletters are filled with information such as a sneak peek of future guests who will be coming up on the show, some highlights from the Seek Travel Ride listener community, as well as ways that you as listeners can get involved with the show as well. Don't delay, click the link in the podcast show notes now and sign up to Seek Travel Ride. Until the next episode, my name is Bella Malloy. Thanks for listening.