Bikepacking Across the Tibetan Plateau in China | Rebecca Gross

This week guest, Rebecca Gross shares her experiences from cycling across China and the Tibetan Plateau. This was very much an unplanned inclusion on her bikepacking journey and it took her through breathtaking landscapes. It also gave her insights intoTibetan culture, and she also had to deal with some extreme weather. Rebecca opens up about kindness from strangers, moments of homesickness, and what it was like to travel sections of this area as a solo female cyclist too. 

Follow Rebecca via her instagram account - @rebecca_grb

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Transcript

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SPEAKER_01 0:24

Hello everybody, Bella Malloy here, host of Seek Travel Ride. Welcome back to another midweek mini episode where I am fueling your fire for bike adventures. This week I have got a update from our intrepid adventurer Rebecca Gross. Those of you who have been following Rebecca's journey from Austria cycling east, this update is going to take us right to the Depetten Plateau, where she cycled with her partner Harvey while they were in China. It's got a few different elements that we'll break down afterwards, but uh as always, I've always really appreciated Rebecca's honesty with her updates. She really has a powerful way of letting us know exactly what she was feeling in the moments and also reflecting back on what she's done as well. Now, after Rebecca's update, I'm going to be sharing some responses from a question I posed on Instagram about how long you think the perfect amount of time is to take a bike adventure. But in the meantime, let's listen to Rebecca's update.

SPEAKER_00 1:28

Hello from our last days here in China. It's incredible that we have been here for the last two months, but we actually never planned to visit this country. It just shows that sometimes it is good to not have a plan. Our time here was one of the best we had so far, but also probably the most intense one. And intense is the best word to explain China because there were not only great moments, so what really surprised me here in China were the people. It might be because of the news at home or the things we hear, but I never thought about the Chinese to be friendly, but they are really kind and we often got invited by strangers, and really always we got greeted with a smile. So we arrived in Beijing after a 30-hour train ride, and we had no plan. We thought about different options, but there was either monsoon season or rainy season or the typhoon season, so not the conditions we wanted to have while cycling. And what still was in our mind was Tibet. Even before going to Mongolia, we thought about this region, but with the monsoon season, we didn't want to be there. So we started to cut time and wait for better weather. In the meantime, we went to other provinces by train. We went hiking in spectacular scenery, and we also were riding our bikes through very humid weather, but at some point we just had to decide where to go. I was very worried that the adventure would be over after Mongolia. Although I often have a very hard time to adapt to the harsh conditions or the demanding riding days, I just didn't want this extreme lifestyle to come to an end. So it was clear to us that we want to explore Tibet and although the weather forecast wasn't very promising, we went there anyway. We just thought that if the weather is too bad, we can just turn around and leave the plateau and change the plan. But already on the first day the sun came out and we got to see the mountains in the distance. And immediately we knew it was the right decision. We cycled all the way up to the plateau. We were gradually gaining altitude, so this would prepare us for the high mountain passes we would face later on. And it was constantly changing from palmier like dramatic rock formations to lush green hills at the beginning to mountains like the Dolomites, snow caped high peaks in the distance to some six thousand meter high mountains with wild saraks and intimidating nor face. We also came across a wild Tibetan monkey and endless yuck herds, and not only nature and wildlife were stunning, seeing the Tibetan culture, the Buddhist monastery and these typical Tibetan houses was a very special experience. In the most remote areas we would find huge and magnificent monasteries. Sometimes I just couldn't believe my eyes. And with the weeks passing, autumn was coming and the trees would turn golden and with the golden roofs of the monastery, it was just a perfect match and unbelievable scenery. Sometimes the landscape would be harsh and brown or grey, but it became instantly more welcoming with the colourful prayer flags on top of every mountain pass. And we had quiet a lot of them. I just stopped counting how many times we have been on almost 5,000 meters, but with being well acclimatized, the altitude actually never was a problem. After some weeks it was time for the last stretch of our route on the plateau, and this was the most challenging one. The landscape was changing again and the high mountains turned into brown hills. Wildlife became more and but there wasn't a day without seeing a fox or just these cute little picas. They are like bigger hamsters. And the temperatures were dropping below zero at night, and we had some very hard conditions. The tent would always be wet in the morning and folding it together it would mean having ice cold fingers before we even started cycling. And once we set off the clear blue sky vanished and the clouds would come in and block the sun. This hard conditions and constantly seeing landscape that reminds me of home. I had a full day of homesickness, and at that point I also was really annoyed by the people. In some villages, they would stare at us from like one meter away, and it seemed like we are aliens, or sometimes they would even take videos out of the car or out of shops, and it felt like they were grabbing footage for I don't know, probably the police. And this is go to bed and wait for the next day. So I distracted myself from thinking too much about home. I would listen to the podcast, we had some instant coffee, and we eventually find a good camp spot where we even cook dinner for once. But what I eventually did was asking my sister if she wants to spend some time together in South Korea where we are heading next. So after a good night's sleep I felt way better and luckily the homesickness was gone. And I also awoke to the news that my sister really would visit me in Seoul. So at least the homesickness was good for something. So we made our way further up the plateau and the conditions got actually worse. One day we were facing such a heavy side and headwind that we couldn't move at all and with the wind chill our fingers were frozen immediately. These two days of stormy weather, we met some friendly locals who helped us with without any hesitation. One group of men gave us a ride to the next town, even though they weren't going there, it wasn't their direction. But they gave us a ride, they invited us for lunch, and they organized a room for the night. The next day we met some teachers who helped me organize a bus to the last city. As I just had enough from suffering in the cold wind, they actually spent the whole afternoon with me while I waited for the bus. And they were constantly bringing delicious food and drinks, and they just made sure I would arrive safely at my destination. Javi finished the route alone while I had a really nerve-wracking bus ride. I was just so worried I would miss the connection train and I would have to sleep in minus 10 degrees alone without a tent. I was just making up all these horror stories in my head. And afterwards I just felt so stupid, and I also was so annoyed by myself. Because if there is one thing this journey taught me is that everything will be okay. But in this moment, I just fell back to old habits, worrying about things that would never happen. At the end, everything was going smooth, everyone was helping me, and I got to experience even more kindness as a woman traveling alone. Everyone was checking constantly on me if I was fine, I didn't have to carry my bags, I didn't have to worry where to buy the ticket or where to get off the train. Everyone was checking on me, and I was just really thankful. And when I arrived at my hotel in the middle of the night, I was really proud of myself. I have actually managed everything without any issue, and that was really a good feeling. Now I will enjoy some days alone here, uh waiting for Javi, and I actually can't wait to hear his stories and what he has experienced these last days cycling on the Tibetan Plateau.

SPEAKER_01 14:57

Oh, thank you so much, Rebecca. I always love receiving your updates because there's so many insights condensed into them, and where do I even start? I guess from the top. It was really interesting to hear about what your preconceptions might have been about China, which really is based on what we hear about and what you're exposed to, and just how it was very different to what you were experiencing there in country. I've heard that from a few guests that I've interviewed who have cycled in China at length, and so your experiences there really marry up with what I've heard from other people. Which goes to show that sometimes it's nothing like actually being somewhere for yourself to actually see what the reality is like. I also loved how this part of your travel sort of flowed in with yours and Harvey's style of unplanned. Like you didn't set off from Austria thinking you would cycle on the Tibetan plateau, and if I look at where your journey has taken you, it's taken you to some incredible places that you'd probably never considered with a bicycle. So it's amazing to think of where you've actually travelled there already. And the Tibetan plateau, my goodness me, I'm just wondering what it would have been like for me to be there. Listeners, I actually received a voice message on the day that Rebecca spoke about when she was a bit homesick and upset. And one thing I noticed, Rebecca, was I could tell that you were perhaps maybe cycling slowly or walking your bike perhaps up a hill because I or maybe you were just standing still, but I could hear the laboured response in your breathing, which would have just been from being so high up there in elevation. And something that really struck me as well is just how different the mountains are that high up. Something that you spoke about was just, you know, the the rocks and the ruggedness, but then all of a sudden you might see some splashes of green or different colours, or maybe it was actually just seeing the prayer flags gave that region and that area a lift in colour as well and changed your mood as well. It would be absolutely magnificent to see those mountain ranges and those beautiful temples there as well. Because it would be just such a different scenery. And listeners, something else I've heard about is that in that scenery because of the elevation and the clarity of the colours is like nothing you've ever seen before. If I've ever interviewed people who have had the privilege of cycling in or and around the Tibetan Plateau, it's something all of them talk about is just the clarity of the landscape and the colours there. Rebecca, something you were also talking about, of course, was just how cold it was. Oh my goodness, and you really took me to it. Having to pack up the tent which was covered in ice, meaning that your hands are frozen, oh my goodness me. Like, oh, I just get the chills thinking about that. And you know, the cold and the elevation and everything is so much harder. I could really understand how that could put you into a bit of a lower mood. And then I know you are a mountain lover, so seeing mountains that also then take you back to the mountains of your home, I could imagine that that meant that the homesickness hit even harder. But I do love the ingenious idea that you had to help get you out of it, and that you schemed and convinced your sister to come to meet you in South Korea. I imagine that was a huge mood lift for you. For sure. The other thing that I thought was interesting was you know, when you were taking the train on your own and you had all these anxieties and stuff, and they all turned to nothing, and you realized everything that this journey has shown you is that there's always a solution. But also just how different you were received because you were on your own. It's something listeners I've spoken to about many other solo female travellers that I have been able to feature on the show. And I think it leans into this other side of perceptions in that it's perceived that it's quite dangerous for women to be out there on their own doing the adventurous thing. And so we have the benefit of people worrying about us, and then so then they are even extra hospitable to us and take care of us even more. And I think personally lean into that and lean into those experiences that come your way. Sounds like everything has worked out for you and and you keep on adding pages to your adventure story. I cannot wait for the next updates to hit and hear about all about South Korea and Japan, which is to follow as well. And listeners, if you want to keep up with Rebecca Grosser's journey, be sure to check out the podcast show notes where I have links to her Instagram account so you can see some of the visuals behind the journey as well. Thank you, Rebecca. Now, listeners, I recently put a call out on our Instagram page. If you're not following us there, by the way, what are you doing? You can find us simply check out the handle at SeekTravel Ride. But recently I wanted to know off the back of interviewing Hein Stuck, who famously travelled the world for 51 years on a huge bike adventure. I wanted to know what do you think is the perfect amount of time for bike travel, for taking your own adventure? And I had a few responses which I am going to share now. Firstly, Rotovello underscore naught, you have said at least three weeks. The first five days to get ride fit, and the rest days as needed. Always allow for side adventures. Oh, I like that. You've got flexibility in your time there, and the idea that you will get fit as you go. It's definitely something a lot of my guests have spoken about. So I do appreciate that part of it as well. Three weeks I can get on with that. Cycling dot beyond. Giacomo. Hello, Giacomo. Now, listeners, I have featured Giacomo on the podcast before. We spoke about him during an episode about his South American journey, and he's currently cycling north. He left Cape Town and has been tracking up the west side of Africa. He is currently in Cameroon, and he also recently had quite a scary experience there where he was actually attacked by a drunk person who it actually did put a pause to his journey as he works out how he's going to continue on from Cameroon to Nigeria. But that aside, anything I know about Giacomo is that moving on his bike and adventuring on his bike, it seems to be part of his identity. And so being stuck still has played on his mind. So it doesn't surprise me at all that his response is infinite. Alright, girl, Slauka, another previous guest of the podcast. You have said two to three weeks when I'm working. Oh, I like that. And to be honest with you, I I like that idea that you can just plan a good chunk of time, which gives you some great experiences and can also fit in around your work schedule. CW Explore, Charlie Walker. Hello Charlie, another previous guest of the podcast. I really love it when previous guests are reaching out. Charlie, you have taken some huge adventures. Listeners, I featured Charlie, I mean, his first adventure was four and a half years, going all over the world there. Anyway, he has said it's 10% longer than you think you can spare. Or 20% longer than you think would be fun. Oh, Charlie, I love that idea. And also the the latter part of that, 20% longer than you think would be fun. That's really leaning into the idea of adventure part of our journeys really come with perhaps a little bit of discomfort or pushing ourselves further than we think. Outside underscore A underscore little. So outside a little. You have said rest of my life, haha. Instead, I'm off to do the big shop at Aldi. Oh, I feel you. But I hope that you have found ways of putting in mini adventures as well, and uh getting some joy from that too. And then lastly, I have Marcus WXLXS. You have said the ideal length is how long you want to be away. One day or infinity, they all have their merit, and that is so very true. We all have different bike adventure styles. We all have different goals. Some people it's just a mini weekender. Some people it's literally years on the road. Perhaps if you're like Giacomo, you could see yourself doing this forever. It was interesting when I spoke with Hein Stuck on my uh interviews with Heinz. In his mind, even though he's stuck in his bed, he's still adventuring now. So there you go. All different ways to adventure. Okay, listeners, now it is time for me to shout out you, my magnificent super fans, for being absolute legends and buying me a coffee. Every week these messages of support and coffee donations come through. And as I mentioned, it always boosts my mood to read how tuning into the podcast has been something that has given you joy and inspiration for your own bike adventures as well. So this week I am shouting out Dave McLaughlin, and you have said, Wonderful inspirational podcast. I love listening to the adventures of so many brave and resilient bike travellers. I cycle to work in County Sligo, Island, when it's not too wet or windy. As I'm getting older, I'm hoping to do more longer trips and possibly camping too. Have travelled much over the years and have incorporated cycling into my travels. I find cycling so positive for me mentally and physically. Keep up the great work, and I've been recommending your podcast to friends. Go Rav Math Agarth, Dave McLaughlin. Dave, I hope I haven't absolutely butchered the beautiful Irish phrase that you added in there at the end of your saying. But thank you so much, Dave. Oh, it's so awesome to hear how you are taking some inspiration from the podcast and putting it into your own bike travel adventures as well. I wonder where you're scheming to go on your cycle travels. Are you going to keep it in country there and stay in Ireland? Because my goodness, there's so much awesome to see there. I recently had the pleasure of spending a week around Newcastle in Northern Ireland, and I did actually have a cool day of cycling with my husband and his uncle around the Dramara Hills, and that was awesome. Like it was amazing scenery, really lumpy country, beautiful green fields, of course, and we had views of the Mourne Mountains, which were magnificent. But all that to say, even keeping your cycle travels to Ireland, you have got so much to look forward to. So keep in touch with me and let me know where your adventure is taking you. And thanks so much for buying me some coffees. Next I have Ro underscore SH and you have said, love the podcast and your guests. Thanks for bringing us such wonderful stories and adventures. Oh thank you. I'm glad you love tuning into the stories from the guests. There's so many experiences that they share each and every week, and I hope you're using it to fuel your own adventures as well. So listeners, if you would like to be like Dave McLaughlin and Roe underscore sh, you too can buy me some coffees and support Seek Travel Ride. Simply head to buymeacoffee.com forward slash Seek Travel Ride. Buy me a few virtual coffees, but importantly, tell me what is it that you're loving about tuning into the podcast and where will your next bike adventure take you? And until the next episode, I'm Bella Malloy. Thanks for listening.